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Being nice isn’t dog training

What do you do when society’s dictates conflict with your goals? If you’re out trying to train your dog and somebody wants to “say Hello!” to your dog? You want to be nice. But being nice isn’t dog training.

A longtime friend who’s also a very experienced dog trainer is a student in our Puppy Obedience class this session. While it’s always great to see friends, most people would wonder why she’s there. After all, she’s been training dogs for many years. And even though she does have a new puppy, she pretty much knows all the ins and outs of household obedience training.

She’s there for the same reasons we take our own dogs to someone else’s puppy classes. One is because we want our puppies to go to new places, experience new things, and learn how to act in public. That’s the socialization part.

The other part is that most people, from family and friends to complete strangers, won’t pay attention when you ask them to help further your training.They won’t follow your instructions on how you want puppy interactions to go. And a good proportion of those people will undermine what you’re doing. If not deliberately, then accidentally.

Hop on Pop

The easiest example most people can identify with is when your puppy (or dog) jumps on people to say hello. Almost every single person will give the puppy the attention he’s asking for. Which is rewarding the dog for misbehaving, guaranteeing that it will happen again. And again.

It’s hard to find people who will stand like statues and stare at the ceiling while an adorable little puppy is jumping on them, pawing them, nudging them, and begging for their attention. It’s almost as hard for the owner of the puppy to let it happen. Your first instinct is to make it stop, even if you have to grab the puppy by the collar and haul it away. Again, that gives the puppy exactly what it’s looking for – attention.

Good or bad doesn’t matter

Dogs want attention. They make absolutely no distinction between positive and negative attention. If you’re focusing on them, they don’t care whether you’re yelling or praising. Dogs seem to be hard-wired to accept all attention from humans as rewarding. And dogs always do the thing that’s most rewarding to them.

The result is that our job as a puppy instructor rarely allows us to interact with the puppies. That’s painful because we love playing with puppies. We love it even more when they’re not our puppies to clean up after and we get to send them home with someone else.

But we don’t get to do that. We get to stand there with our arms folded, staring at the ceiling, until the instant the puppy has “four on the floor.” At first, that “Good Off!” moment only lasts an instant, and then we’re staring at the ceiling again. By the third week of class, most puppies are sitting politely when we come to say “Hello!” And the bargain is sealed. The dog gets what it wants (attention) when we get what we want (polite greetings).

Be rude if you must

So what can you do when people don’t cooperate? Advocate for yourself and for your dog. If you’re walking your puppy (or dog) and a stranger asks if they can say “Hello!” or pet your dog, you set the rules. Most people will get it if you say “Only if he sits by you.” They probably won’t notice or pay attention when the puppy pops out of position with the first touch. Then you have to step in and ask them to stop until the dog behaves again.

The frustration comes when the person doesn’t comply. “Oh, he’s fine, let me say hello.” And you’re considered a meanie if you don’t allow it. Much as you want to be kind to strangers, your dog is more important than that person’s urge to pet the puppy. Your dog, your rules. Just say “I’m sorry, but we have to go.” And do it. Then come to our classes. We’ll ignore the heck out of your puppy.

Mix and Match Your Dog Training

The beauty part of slicing your dog training into small pieces is that you can put them together however you want. If you teach your dog what “hold” means, they’ll know how to hold anything, given an opportunity. You can mix and match your dog training into whatever new tricks or games you like.

One of the AKC Trick Dog behaviors is to open a cabinet or drawer. While simple for some dogs – just tie a cloth to the handle and the dog will pull on it, it’s proven difficult for Hope’s French Bulldog Torque.

But he does know some of the pieces. While he’s not great at tugging, he does know “hold” and “back up.” Put those two things together and, in theory, he should get the “Open It” trick pretty quickly.

Expectation vs. Reality

In fact, it’s taking a while to put it together. The string Hope’s using around the drawer handle isn’t at all familiar to Torque and he’s not sure what to make of it. Puzzling this out, Hope put it in with a bunch of things Torque knows to pick things up, hold, and “put away.”

Figuring out how to communicate with your dog is more than half the battle. Using a familiar “Put Your Stuff Away” game to get him used to picking up and carrying the string was one step. Another section will be getting him to “Hold” and “Back Up!” at the same time. The only time he’s put the two together before was for the dumbbell retrieve.

Listen, don’t assume

The formal dumbbell retrieve works like this:

dog sits at heel
dog stays
handler tosses dumbbell
handler releases dog
dog gets dumbbell
dog comes to handler holding dumbbell
dog sits in front of handler holding dumbbell
dog releases dumbbell into handler’s hand on command
dog returns to heel on command

That’s always the way the dumbbell retrieve happens in competition. Everyone knows that, including the dog. When dogs always know what comes next, they sometimes skip to the end, dropping the dumbbell prematurely, or returning to heel position before they’re told.

To prevent the dog from “assuming,” we mix it up in practice. Sometimes the dog has to hold the dumbbell while returning to heel. Sometimes the dog has to heel while holding the dumbbell. Sometimes we heel with a “back up” thrown in.

That’s where Torque has learned to hold something while backing up. Now we take advantage of what he knows and expand it to hold anything and back up at the same time.

Pieces fit together

If you’ve already taught your dog pieces of any trick you want to teach, you can mix and match however you want. It’s the same “Hold!” chunk for whatever object. Dogs catch on pretty quickly when you put new ideas in a familiar context.

Mix and match your dog training

To create new tricks and behaviors, think about the little pieces your dog already knows. You can grow all the bits by using familiar objects in new places, or with new goals. Or new objects with familiar places and goals. Either one lets you put together a whole new game, just by using a mix and match recipe.

Get your dog’s head in the game

How do you get your dog’s head in the game? When it’s time to play training games, do you have a regular time and place? Do you put your dog’s collar or harness on? How do you let your dog know it’s time to go have some fun?

You already know that dogs love routines and schedules. You can bet that if you follow the same routine every day, your dog will know when it’s time to play. And if it doesn’t happen, they’ll probably let you know they’re not happy about it.

But what if your life’s schedule doesn’t allow for a regular training “date” with your dog? You can still use a routine to get your dog’s head in the game.

Start with a warm-up game

While two minutes is a great, intense training session, it’s more of a guideline than an absolute. There are games, especially those with some set-up and complex behavior chains, that are better if you play a bit longer. Other training games, once you and your dog know them, are great to play for a minute or less – like a warm-up to the main event.

Use those quickie games to start every session and get your dog’s focus on playing with you. Most of our group classes start with a timed minute of Puppy Pushups. Just that fast, random calling of “Sit!” “Stand!” and “Down!” gets your dog’s attention. The faster you play, the more rewards your dog gets, the better engagement you’ll get. It may be just an opener to the main act, but that doesn’t mean it has no value.

If your dog is accustomed to performing familiar behaviors quickly, they don’t even have to think about it. When you say “Sit!” your dog’s butt will hit the floor fast. Likewise with “Down!” and “Stand!” If you ever do intend to indulge in dog sports like Obedience and Rally, it’s wonderful if neither of you has to worry about those commands. As soon as you say it, your dog won’t even have to think. They’ll automatically do it, just like when you play your Puppy Pushups game.

Keep them fresh

Using the most useful games as part of your speedy warm-up will keep them front of mind for your dog. You’ll be able to use them when you most need them. “Touch!” can be a warm-up. It’s also the one you want to keep fresh when you spot the squirrel before your dog does. Or the guy comes into the veterinarian’s waiting room with a cat in a carrier. Those little training games are useful, even if you never plan on a dog sport career.

One of the many reasons to play daily training games with your dog is to make life easier. Both of you will react better if you have a fall-back to rely on in stressful situations. If it’s an ingrained habit to play “Touch!” you’re more likely to remember it when you need it. After all, habit is the most powerful force in the universe.

The timing of dog training

This week in her Beginner Obedience class, Hope’s face had an unfortunate encounter with the nails of a seven-month old Labrador Retriever. She’ll be fine. So will her face. But it made us think about the timing of dog training. If this dog’s owner had started training when he was three months old, by now he would know how to greet politely. And if he had jumped on Hope (she’s only five feet tall), he wouldn’t have been able to reach her face. Or do as much damage.

When is the right time to start training your puppy or dog? The simple answer is “as soon as you come in the door.” Dogs are learning all the time. It’s up to you to make that learning purposeful. And fun. Something the two of you can do throughout the dog’s life to enrich your time together.

It’s not a chore

If you hated school, don’t let whatever negative baggage you have color your opinion of dog training. Dogs are for fun. Teaching them is fun. The way they learn best is by playing games. So, essentially, school for dogs is just playing games. You may be the dungeon master, but both of you should have fun playing the game.

First, decide what’s most important for your dog to know. If you’re a hermit who never goes out and never has company, you probably don’t care if your dog jumps on people to say hi. For the rest of us, it should be right at the top of the curriculum.

It’s easy, too. All you have to do is have everybody ignore the puppy (or dog) unless all four feet are on the floor. You don’t have to insist on a “Sit!” If you want it, it comes later. All you have to do is nothing. When the dog’s front feet are off the ground, just have people fold their arms and stare into the sky. As soon as those adorable little paws are all in contact with the ground, make a huge fuss over the puppy – pets, scritches, treats. Even a game of tug if there’s a toy nearby. It’s easy to see that the timing of dog training is not a big deal when it’s fun for everyone.

When a dog jumps on someone, they’re saying “Hi! I’m here! Pay attention to me!” If the dog doesn’t get what they want, they’ll try something else. When that something else gets them what they want, they’re more likely to do that again. What gets rewarded, gets repeated. It may take a few repetitions to work. And we know it’s hard to resist those puppy dog eyes. Do it anyway. That way when your dog is as tall as you, you won’t have to worry about them scratching up your guests’ faces. Or having to hang on to their collar for dear life so they don’t jump.

Class time

You already know that habit is the most powerful force in the universe. Gravity may be a close second, but that’s debatable. It’s easier to form a new habit with a dog than to try to break an established one.

The point is; if you have a new-to-you dog, whether a puppy or an adult, start as you mean to continue. It may be adorable for a 15-pound puppy to jump on you, paw at you, or whine for attention. When the dog weighs 60 pounds, it’s not so cute. When Grandma comes over to visit, or your toddler nephew, there’s nothing cute about it.

You should form a new habit, too. Pick a time for your training. Make a date with your dog every day right after you’ve had your coffee. You can use your dog’s breakfast for training treats. You get to smile at the start of the day. And your dog will be satisfied (food) and tired (had to think!) for the morning.

Other end of the timeline

That habit will stand you in good stead for your dog’s entire lifetime. When your dog’s caught up on the house rules (house-breaking, jumping, crate training), you can spend every day playing the training games that are more fun; Ring Stacking, Put Your Toys Away, anything you come up with that makes you both happy.

It never has to go away. Tango, Fran’s Brussels Griffon, will celebrate his 15th birthday this month. He decided to retire from the competition ring in Rally and Agility long ago – he wasn’t having fun. But every single day he still plays training games. He plays his Balance and Core Exercises. And he plays “Put Your Toys Away.” The timing of dog training for Tango is “all the time!”

Playing training games with your dog really isn’t about the training. It’s about the growth of your relationship with your dog, the understanding it builds between you, and giving your dog the biggest life you both can share.

Make a game of stuff the dog hates

Everybody has stuff they have to do and don’t like. The same holds true for most dogs. Some dogs love to ride in the car. Others are fearful. Dogs don’t necessarily love getting brushed. Some do, but others just put up with it. If you make a game of stuff the dog hates, you’ll both be happier.

As adults, we all do things we find unpleasant because we either should, or must. Whether the reason is for your own well-being (like going to the doctor), or your life’s obligations (like working), you do it. You may not be overjoyed about it, but you do it.

There are also things our dogs don’t like doing. It could be tooth-brushing, getting in the car, or putting on a harness or collar. Our dogs don’t understand that all of these things are for their own good. They don’t understand long-term consequences. Dogs exist in the now. And if they don’t want to, they’ll do everything they can to get out of doing it.

Give this dog a choice

This weekend we met a dog who gets a bit mouthy and aggressive if he isn’t given a choice. He objects to being pressured into action. The most notable reaction was when he refused to get into his owner’s car after our session. He wouldn’t be coaxed or lured and got mouthy when a hand went to his collar. If Hope hadn’t heeded his warning lip-curl, she would have been bitten.

Imagine our surprise when, with both back doors open and the dog’s leash tossed to the opposite side, he hopped into the car when no one was next to him. It was his choice, so he did it.

Some people would call it stubborn. It’s not. For reasons known only to the dog, he fears being forced into action. We’ll never know why. We can only assess what’s going on and counter-condition it. If this dog reacts badly where he has no options, it’s our job to make sure his options are all good ones.

Make it a game

We faced a similar situation (without the bite threat) with our own dogs. There was a next-door neighbor dog that would bark and fence-fight with our dogs. The neighbor was uncooperative, so there was no way for us to train our dogs not to react when they were off-leash. Our solution was to leash our dogs and “walk” them – even in our own back yard. On the rare occasion the neighbor dog wasn’t outside, we removed the leashes.

Our dogs didn’t much like it. They were accustomed to roaming the yard, sniffing and checking stuff out. When they saw us reach for their collars, they would back away trying to avoid getting hooked up. While we had no choice about leashing them, we also didn’t want them to hate it.

So we made a game of it. Randomly, throughout the day, we would grab a collar and say “Collar!” At first, the dogs were reluctant, but they did it. We put on the collar, rewarded the dog multiple times, repeating the word “Collar!” and “Good Collar!” Then we took the collar off, repeating “Collar!” and the dog was free to go.

It didn’t take long for our dogs to understand that standing still to get their collars earned them rewards. Now when we say “Collar!” they even stretch their necks out to have it on. Just by making a reward-based game out of it, we turned the situation around. Do they love the restriction? No, but the rewards are sufficiently valuable to make it worth their while. We make everything a dog training game!

Allows vs. Loves

There’s a difference between the things your dog will let you do, and loves for you to do. Some dogs love getting brushed. Others tolerate it. Still others resist and make it miserable for everyone. If your dog falls into the last category, think about the steps you can take to turn it around. If your dog is generously rewarded every time they see the comb or brush, they’ll like seeing it. The next step might be touching the grooming tool to a non-sensitive area. And generously rewarding. Then a small, gentle swipe with the brush, gradually building up your dog’s tolerance for the activity.

We’re not saying your dog will ever love getting brushed. But tolerating it with ease is sufficient. There are things that we have to do to keep our dogs healthy and well-groomed. Like us, they don’t have to love all of it. But they shouldn’t be miserable and neither should you. And that’s why we make a game of stuff the dogs hate.

Dog training requires your presence

If you’re not there, you can’t train your dog. Dog training requires your presence, both physically and mentally. You can’t do it remotely, phone it in, or hire someone else to do it.

This week one of the places where we hold classes had an open house. It was a terrific event and let us talk to all kinds of people about their dogs. It’s nice to be in a place where everyone instantly has something in common. As resident dog trainers, we were able to talk about how much fun it is to play training games with your dog, how gratifying it is to see the dogs’ joy, and answer lots of dog issue questions.

The most surprising thing to us was how many people don’t understand their presence is required on a one-to-one basis with each dog. That’s a monumental difference between people and dogs. Children can learn as a group in full classrooms. Dogs need to be tutored individually. Once all your dogs know how to do something, they can practice together. Until then, it’s just not possible.

You’re the tutor

One person asked us how she can get her two dogs to stop barking when they’re in the yard. When asked, she admitted that the dogs were out by themselves, for some extended periods of time. There’s no way to train a dog to do something if you’re not there. If the dogs are on their own, they do what they want. And if there’s more than one, they’ll probably follow the worst-behaved dog’s lead. Because that’s the dog having the most fun.

Another person asked about their dog being a terrible “host” when people come over. Their dog is dictating their social life. He was rueful about the fact that his dog has been through two board-and-train sessions and still is reactive when company comes. Then he admitted he and his partner haven’t followed through with any advice the board-and-train place gave them.

Somebody else asked about stopping their dog from eating nasty stuff in the yard – both her own and others’. And again, the dog was mostly alone in the yard. When she did have company, she wasn’t on leash and the person had no supplies to reward for good behavior.

Don’t complain – train!

If you don’t do the work, you’re not allowed to complain. When you’re down there in the trenches trying to take care of business, then you’re allowed to complain all you want. If you don’t vote, you can’t complain about the politicians. You have to participate to solve the problem, any problem.

If you want your dog to stop eating poop in the yard, you have three options. One is to pick it up immediately when it’s produced. That works for dogs’ stuff, but not rabbits’. You can take your dog out on leash, and train them to ignore it. Another option, if being there isn’t possible, is to train your dog to wear a muzzle.

Start small

We honestly can’t understand why so many people want to hand the training reins over to strangers, or not do it at all. Playing training games with our dogs is one of the highlights of our days. We can see how much joy the dogs and people have in our classes when the team starts to mesh. Having a dog means getting to spend time and energy with someone who loves you unconditionally. And is fun. Also never talks back, rolls their eyes, or ignores you.

Yes, dog training requires your presence. But just a few minutes a day playing training games can make your life calmer, more controlled, and certainly more joyful. Dogs aren’t hobbies that you take out and play with when it’s convenient. They’re always there, hovering at the edges of your life, anticipating the times they get to be the center of your attention. If you can’t give them a few minutes, why do you have a dog?

Is your dog training you?

How many times have you, or a dog-owning friend, joked about your dog having trained you well? Laugh all you want, but there’s a truth buried in there. Our dogs are good at training us. We just have to be better at recognizing it. If it’s something that’s cute, or good, or endearing, it’s fine to leave it alone. But if it’s something that really doesn’t work for you, it’s time to turn it around. Ask yourself, “Is your dog training you?”

It happens to all of us, especially those of us with dogs trained with positive reinforcement. Our dogs know how to push the treat button. They do something cute and they expect to be rewarded for it. And it’s difficult to resist those puppy-dog eyes.

For instance, Hope’s French Bulldog Torque thinks he ought to get rewarded whenever he sits in front of her. Even in our own yard, he’ll be watching the birds, or squirrels, and then dash over and sit right in front of her. And it worked every time. Until he started getting pushy and barked at her when she was too slow with the treats.

Like anyone, she absent-mindedly started reaching for the treat pouch, thinking “Oh, yeah. He’s sitting like a good boy.” Then she realized what was happening. Hope almost rewarded her dog for barking at her. We all know that what gets rewarded gets repeated. She could imagine a lifetime of being barked at by her very cute, but very rude dog.

Pay attention

If Hope hadn’t caught herself, she would have had the uphill battle of un-training a behavior. It’s actually easier to set and maintain performance criteria than it is to change things later.

A good example is a smart young Labrador Retriever in our Rally class. She has been rewarded often and well for lying down. Her “Down!” is excellent. It’s also her default behavior when she doesn’t understand what her person is asking. When she’s not sure what she’s supposed to do, she lies down. Which always gets her a smile and a treat from her person. That’s fine, if they’d asked for a “Down!” It’s not okay when she was asked to “Stand!” or “Stay!” or “Sit!” By rewarding a behavior they didn’t want, their dog has trained them to do what she wants.

Still the hardest part of training

The most popular tip we ever wrote was called “The hardest part of dog training.” It’s still true. The most difficult part of dog training is waiting. Waiting for your dog to do what you asked. Taking the time for them to learn to make good choices. Being patient while they think through the situation.

In our Novice Obedience competition class one of the absolutes for dogs is they must sit automatically when you come to a halt in heeling. Every single time. There are no exceptions, so an automatic sit is one of the first things we work on. In class this week the atmosphere was charged. There were major storms in the area and everybody’s phone kept blaring with weather alerts. The dogs (and the people) were all a bit unsettled.

We were doing run-throughs to simulate an actual obedience trial. One of the dogs, normally a rock-steady performer, lost her automatic sits during heeling. Her person was all ready to tell her to sit. But that’s not allowed in competition, so Hope told her to just wait. Look at the dog’s rear end and just wait. For a good 15-20 seconds (seems like a lifetime), the dog just looked at her. And then the dog remembered and sat.

Don’t let them train you

It holds true in this situation, too. If you repeat a command, help your dog, or accept less than what you wanted, ask yourself, “Is your dog training you?” Dogs are really smart and most are excellent at finding the easy way to do things. It’s easier for them to have you do the work. Ask them to step up and be your partner.

Training Game: Teach your dog “Off!”

“Off!” is a difficult concept for dogs to grasp. It’s not a specific action, like “Sit!” and it’s used in all sorts of situations, like when they jump on people, put their paws on the kitchen counter, or even start humping something. We humans use the word in all sorts of scenarios, although it means the same thing to us. Here’s how to teach your dog “Off!”

Dogs don’t understand that a single word can have multiple meanings. Remember that dogs are specific and don’t generalize. If someone uses “Down!” when a dog is jumping on them, instead of “Off!,” it can confuse the dog. To clarify things for your dog, use “Down!” for lie down, and “Off!” for get off of something.

And then, once your dog starts to understand what “Off!” means, you have to expand it to all sorts of things – the person, the table, the chair, the counter. Whatever your dog gets on, needs reinforcement for “Off!”

It can be done

Now that you understand how big training “Off!” can be, it’s time to start very small. For this game you’ll need treats that are irresistible to your dog, a small bowl you can cover with your hand, and lots and lots of patience.

Try your best not to use “Off!” as a command until your dog has some idea what it means. Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words, if they’re clearly defined and consistently used. But you’re just wasting your breath and confusing your dog if you use a command they don’t know.

One of our instructors had a rule about that. You couldn’t use a command unless you’d bet a paycheck that your dog knows it and would do it. If you’re not sure, stay quiet.

Step one

Place the bowl with the incredibly good treats on the seat of a chair, a stool, or any stable solid surface that your dog can reach by standing on their hind legs. Keep the bowl covered with your hand so the dog can’t get any treats. If the treats are good enough, your dog will put front paws on the chair seat. Don’t say anything. Wait.

Just wait.

Keep waiting.

Your dog is going to paw at the bowl, snuffle at your hand, scratch the surface the bowl is on, pull out every trick they have to get those treats. Don’t say anything. Don’t do anything. Just wait.

Eventually, the dog will get tired of things that don’t work and get off the chair. IMMEDIATELY say “Good Off!” and let them know they’re clever, good, genius dogs. Without uncovering the bowl, reach in and give your dog a treat. As long as they stay “Off!” keep praising and rewarding that wonderful “Off!” Now is the time to use the word, when they’ve just done it and continue to do it.

If your dog is like most, when they get a treat they’ll hop back up and try to get more. As soon as their paws leave the ground, be quiet and wait. The time it takes for the dog to get “Off!” should be shorter the second time. As soon as they’re off, continuously praise and reward. Be sure to use the word “Off!” frequently to teach them the word. The association between the action and the word has to be immediate.

Be patient and consistent

Simon was naughty, jumping up, then was rewarded for "Off!"

Try to sustain the behavior. The last thing you want to create is a “jack-in-the-box,” constantly hopping up and sitting down. The way to teach your dog “Off!” is to deliver multiple rewards, one at a time, as long as the dog has four paws on the floor. Most people neglect this step and wind up with a one-and-done dog, when they get the treat they think they’re done with the behavior.

That’s it for the first session. The second time you play “Off!” your dog will probably be much faster to get with the program. When you hit a game session where, as soon as you put the bowl on the seat (or before!) your dog sits, you’re getting there. That’s the time to take your game elsewhere. Use the same method with the bowl on a different chair, on a table, on the kitchen counter. Play exactly the same way. This is how to teach your dog “Off!”

The ultimate step is to be able to hold the bowl at your waist or higher. If your dog doesn’t jump on you to get the treats, you’re getting there! Now you can use the word “Off!” preemptively to keep your dog politely on the floor. Play the “Off!” game wherever, and with whoever, your dog was likely to jump.

Boxey revisited: let the dog do the work

For whatever reason, Hope wasn’t feeling very inspired with training games this week. Her French Bulldog Torque is always an eager participant, but Hope just wasn’t feeling any creative spark. What do you do when you don’t know what to do? Go back to the very beginning. It’s a very good place to start. And let your dog do the work for you.

Hope dug out a big old cardboard box, sat on the floor with a bowl of treats and told Torque to go for it. He’s been playing “Boxey!” since forever, but it’s been a while since Hope hauled it out.

The dog did not disappoint! He came up with two new games in just five minutes!

Let the dog do the work

Whoa! How did that happen?

If you need a Boxey refresher, it’s one of the first games we use to teach dogs how to learn and create. You just get a box, large enough and shallow enough for your dog to get into, and wait. You sit there on the floor near the box and let your dog figure stuff out. Whatever your dog does gets rewarded. (Except for trying to eat the box.) Every time they do something different, you throw a treat in the box.

That’s it. Simple enough. And yet there are still people who try to “help” their dogs. Yes, you may talk to your dog, encourage your dog, even pet your dog. You’re not allowed to tell them what to do. Let the dog do the work. Whatever they do is perfectly fine. Just be sure the box you use was headed for the recycle bin anyway.

Why so strict about not instructing your dog? Because the point of this game is to have your dog be creative. Whatever they come up with will give you some insight into what they understand, which games they like the most, how creative they can be, and how much they enjoy learning.

All that from a box

Dogs who aren’t trained with games and positive reinforcement from puppyhood may take a while to engage with the box. All their lives they’ve been strictly monitored and told what to do, when to do it, and how to act. They’ve never had to make a choice, so they don’t know how to choose. Some sit for the entire session, staring at the box. Their dogs are afraid to make a “wrong” choice, so they do nothing.

If that describes your dog, dig deep and call on all your patience. You can certainly talk to your dog. Be upbeat and keep up the chatter. Just don’t give them commands, orders, or instructions. If you’ve got nothing else to say, sing a song, share a poem, recite the Gettysburg address. It doesn’t matter, as long as you let your dog know you’re not upset or angry with them. The tone should be encouraging and happy.

It doesn’t matter

Whatever your dog does with the box is fine. It gets rewarded. Once they catch on to the game, they’ll love it. They get to play with their people and have fun. Because there’s no goal to the game, it takes the pressure off everyone.

You’re probably wondering what new games Torque made up with his latest Boxey session. The first was an extension of something we’ve done out of the box. He jumped into the box and went into his “Stomp!” behavior. It was adorable and we wish we had video.

“In and Out”

The second was brand new. When he’d been rewarded for “Stomp in the Box!” a few times, Hope said “We’ve seen that. What else?” He tried a few familiar behaviors (sit in the box, bow in the box), but Hope asked for something else. He moved his two back feet out of the box and then in again. Torque’s new game is “In and Out!” Like all new games, it needs some more practice before it’s polished. And Hope knows she truly has a partner. When she couldn’t come up with something new, he did. That’s the beauty of playing training games with your dog. Sometimes you let the dog do the work. And the partnership is always amazing.

Train both sides of your dog

One of our Rally student’s dogs was having an issue with lameness. A trip to the veterinary chiropractor yielded some relief, and some good advice. Whatever the dog does on one side, balance it with an equal exercise on the other side. Train both sides of your dog.

Regardless of your opinion of chiropractic practice for either people or dogs, the advice is good. Common sense tells you that all beings with bilateral symmetry, both dogs and people, should strive for equal strength. The classic example of asymmetrical development is baseball pitchers. The difference between their dominant arm and shoulder and the subordinate joints is dramatic.

So how does this apply in dog training? Most people will notice that their dogs have an easier time moving to one side than the other. Just like people, dogs have a dominant side they tend to favor. The “Spin!” game is usually where the dog’s preference shows most dramatically. It’s up to you, as your dog’s trainer and coach, to make sure the dog’s non-dominant side gets an equal, or greater, workout.

Why it matters

When your dog is young and healthy you may not see any obvious benefits resulting from two-sided training. But as your dog ages, their weaker side will be more prone to injuries, issues, and arthritis. When they’re old and creaky, an evenly-developed dog will have better muscle tone and be, perhaps, slightly less creaky.

If you’ve ever trained your dog in Obedience, you know that it’s almost exclusively performed with the dog on your left side. And some Obedience competitors question the need for training on both sides. After all, if dogs are always supposed to “Heel!” on the left, why bother with opposite-side practice?

There are obvious benefits for even muscle and balance strengthening. The less-apparent reason is to keep your dog’s attention and interest. You know that dogs love routine and patterns. Given the opportunity, dogs will follow known patterns and even try to anticipate the goal of any exercise. To avoid anticipation (which gets a disqualification in Obedience), it’s a good idea to switch up your training. It keeps sessions fresh and interesting for both of you.

Do it the “other” way

We also teach Rally, which is a bit more evenly distributed between left and right. Your dog still maintains heel position on your left, but many Rally signs have both left and right variants – 360 degree turns both ways, 270s both ways, etc. Even the Spiral signs have two options – either “Dog Inside” (closer to the pylons) or “Dog Outside” (handler closer to the pylons). This creates both inside and outside turns for your dog, balancing bilateral training exercises.

It’s easy enough to set up a mini-course with these easy heeling exercises. You don’t have to have cones or pylons, just three (or four) similarly-sized objects you and your dog can heel around, and the space to do it. If you want the official instructions, the Rally signs are readily available online.

Both sides of the coin

We’re always surprised when one of our students tells us their dog “only” goes one way on a behavior like “Spin!” or “Roll Over!” It may be easier to indulge your dog’s “handedness” preference, but it’s not what’s best for your dog. Train on both sides of your dog. Make a point of working the “hard” side more than the other. Your dog will be in better physical shape, and their physiology and gait will stay strong.

As with all dog training, your dog may resist your emphasis on their “off” side. Like all dog training, the most difficult part is patience. And rewards. The more difficult something is for your dog, the more valuable the reward should be. Make it worth your dog’s time to expend the effort. We all work a little more diligently for a great pay day.