Month: February 2024

Training Game: Teach your dog “Off!”

“Off!” is a difficult concept for dogs to grasp. It’s not a specific action, like “Sit!” and it’s used in all sorts of situations, like when they jump on people, put their paws on the kitchen counter, or even start humping something. We humans use the word in all sorts of scenarios, although it means the same thing to us. Here’s how to teach your dog “Off!”

Dogs don’t understand that a single word can have multiple meanings. Remember that dogs are specific and don’t generalize. If someone uses “Down!” when a dog is jumping on them, instead of “Off!,” it can confuse the dog. To clarify things for your dog, use “Down!” for lie down, and “Off!” for get off of something.

And then, once your dog starts to understand what “Off!” means, you have to expand it to all sorts of things – the person, the table, the chair, the counter. Whatever your dog gets on, needs reinforcement for “Off!”

It can be done

Now that you understand how big training “Off!” can be, it’s time to start very small. For this game you’ll need treats that are irresistible to your dog, a small bowl you can cover with your hand, and lots and lots of patience. 

Try your best not to use “Off!” as a command until your dog has some idea what it means. Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words, if they’re clearly defined and consistently used. But you’re just wasting your breath and confusing your dog if you use a command they don’t know. 

One of our instructors had a rule about that. You couldn’t use a command unless you’d bet a paycheck that your dog knows it and would do it. If you’re not sure, stay quiet. 

Step one

Place the bowl with the incredibly good treats on the seat of a chair, a stool, or any stable solid surface that your dog can reach by standing on their hind legs. Keep the bowl covered with your hand so the dog can’t get any treats. If the treats are good enough, your dog will put front paws on the chair seat. Don’t say anything. Wait. 

Just wait.

Keep waiting. 

Your dog is going to paw at the bowl, snuffle at your hand, scratch the surface the bowl is on, pull out every trick they have to get those treats. Don’t say anything. Don’t do anything. Just wait.

Eventually, the dog will get tired of things that don’t work and get off the chair. IMMEDIATELY say “Good Off!” and let them know they’re clever, good, genius dogs.  Without uncovering the bowl, reach in and give your dog a treat. As long as they stay “Off!” keep praising and rewarding that wonderful “Off!” Now is the time to use the word, when they’ve just done it and continue to do it. 

If your dog is like most, when they get a treat they’ll hop back up and try to get more. As soon as their paws leave the ground, be quiet and wait. The time it takes for the dog to get “Off!” should be shorter the second time. As soon as they’re off, continuously praise and reward. Be sure to use the word “Off!” frequently to teach them the word. The association between the action and the word has to be immediate.

Be patient and consistent

Simon was naughty, jumping up, then was rewarded for "Off!"

Try to sustain the behavior. The last thing you want to create is a “jack-in-the-box,” constantly hopping up and sitting down. The way to teach your dog “Off!” is to deliver multiple rewards, one at a time, as long as the dog has four paws on the floor. Most people neglect this step and wind up with a one-and-done dog, when they get the treat they think they’re done with the behavior. 

That’s it for the first session. The second time you play “Off!” your dog will probably be much faster to get with the program. When you hit a game session where, as soon as you put the bowl on the seat (or before!) your dog sits, you’re getting there. That’s the time to take your game elsewhere. Use the same method with the bowl on a different chair, on a table, on the kitchen counter. Play exactly the same way. This is how to teach your dog “Off!”

The ultimate step is to be able to hold the bowl at your waist or higher. If your dog doesn’t jump on you to get the treats, you’re getting there! Now you can use the word “Off!” preemptively to keep your dog politely on the floor. Play the “Off!” game wherever, and with whoever, your dog was likely to jump.

Boxey revisited: let the dog do the work

For whatever reason, Hope wasn’t feeling very inspired with training games this week. Her French Bulldog Torque is always an eager participant, but Hope just wasn’t feeling any creative spark. What do you do when you don’t know what to do? Go back to the very beginning. It’s a very good place to start. And let your dog do the work for you.

Hope dug out a big old cardboard box, sat on the floor with a bowl of treats and told Torque to go for it. He’s been playing “Boxey!” since forever, but it’s been a while since Hope hauled it out.

The dog did not disappoint! He came up with two new games in just five minutes!

Let the dog do the work

Whoa! How did that happen?

If you need a Boxey refresher, it’s one of the first games we use to teach dogs how to learn and create. You just get a box, large enough and shallow enough for your dog to get into, and wait. You sit there on the floor near the box and let your dog figure stuff out. Whatever your dog does gets rewarded. (Except for trying to eat the box.) Every time they do something different, you throw a treat in the box. 

That’s it. Simple enough. And yet there are still people who try to “help” their dogs. Yes, you may talk to your dog, encourage your dog, even pet your dog. You’re not allowed to tell them what to do. Let the dog do the work. Whatever they do is perfectly fine. Just be sure the box you use was headed for the recycle bin anyway.

Why so strict about not instructing your dog? Because the point of this game is to have your dog be creative. Whatever they come up with will give you some insight into what they understand, which games they like the most, how creative they can be, and how much they enjoy learning.

All that from a box

Dogs who aren’t trained with games and positive reinforcement from puppyhood may take a while to engage with the box. All their lives they’ve been strictly monitored and told what to do, when to do it, and how to act. They’ve never had to make a choice, so they don’t know how to choose. Some sit for the entire session, staring at the box. Their dogs are afraid to make a “wrong” choice, so they do nothing.

If that describes your dog, dig deep and call on all your patience. You can certainly talk to your dog. Be upbeat and keep up the chatter. Just don’t give them commands, orders, or instructions. If you’ve got nothing else to say, sing a song, share a poem, recite the Gettysburg address. It doesn’t matter, as long as you let your dog know you’re not upset or angry with them. The tone should be encouraging and happy.

It doesn’t matter

Whatever your dog does with the box is fine. It gets rewarded. Once they catch on to the game, they’ll love it. They get to play with their people and have fun. Because there’s no goal to the game, it takes the pressure off everyone. 

You’re probably wondering what new games Torque made up with his latest Boxey session. The first was an extension of something we’ve done out of the box. He jumped into the box and went into his “Stomp!” behavior. It was adorable and we wish we had video.

“In and Out”

The second was brand new. When he’d been rewarded for “Stomp in the Box!” a few times, Hope said “We’ve seen that. What else?” He tried a few familiar behaviors (sit in the box, bow in the box), but Hope asked for something else. He moved his two back feet out of the box and then in again. Torque’s new game is “In and Out!” Like all new games, it needs some more practice before it’s polished. And Hope knows she truly has a partner. When she couldn’t come up with something new, he did. That’s the beauty of playing training games with your dog. Sometimes you let the dog do the work. And the partnership is always amazing.

Train both sides of your dog

One of our Rally student’s dogs was having an issue with lameness. A trip to the veterinary chiropractor yielded some relief, and some good advice. Whatever the dog does on one side, balance it with an equal exercise on the other side. Train both sides of your dog.

Regardless of your opinion of chiropractic practice for either people or dogs, the advice is good. Common sense tells you that all beings with bilateral symmetry, both dogs and people, should strive for equal strength. The classic example of asymmetrical development is baseball pitchers. The difference between their dominant arm and shoulder and the subordinate joints is dramatic. 

So how does this apply in dog training? Most people will notice that their dogs have an easier time moving to one side than the other. Just like people, dogs have a dominant side they tend to favor. The “Spin!” game is usually where the dog’s preference shows most dramatically. It’s up to you, as your dog’s trainer and coach, to make sure the dog’s non-dominant side gets an equal, or greater, workout.

Why it matters

When your dog is young and healthy you may not see any obvious benefits resulting from two-sided training. But as your dog ages, their weaker side will be more prone to injuries, issues, and arthritis. When they’re old and creaky, an evenly-developed dog will have better muscle tone and be, perhaps, slightly less creaky.

If you’ve ever trained your dog in Obedience, you know that it’s almost exclusively performed with the dog on your left side. And some Obedience competitors question the need for training on both sides. After all, if dogs are always supposed to “Heel!” on the left, why bother with opposite-side practice? 

There are obvious benefits for even muscle and balance strengthening. The less-apparent reason is to keep your dog’s attention and interest. You know that dogs love routine and patterns. Given the opportunity, dogs will follow known patterns and even try to anticipate the goal of any exercise. To avoid anticipation (which gets a disqualification in Obedience), it’s a good idea to switch up your training. It keeps sessions fresh and interesting for both of you.

Do it the “other” way

We also teach Rally, which is a bit more evenly distributed between left and right. Your dog still maintains heel position on your left, but many Rally signs have both left and right variants – 360 degree turns both ways, 270s both ways, etc. Even the Spiral signs have two options – either “Dog Inside” (closer to the pylons) or “Dog Outside” (handler closer to the pylons). This creates both inside and outside turns for your dog, balancing bilateral training exercises.

It’s easy enough to set up a mini-course with these easy heeling exercises. You don’t have to have cones or pylons, just three (or four) similarly-sized objects you and your dog can heel around, and the space to do it. If you want the official instructions, the Rally signs are readily available online.

Both sides of the coin

We’re always surprised when one of our students tells us their dog “only” goes one way on a behavior like “Spin!” or “Roll Over!” It may be easier to indulge your dog’s “handedness” preference, but it’s not what’s best for your dog. Train on both sides of your dog. Make a point of working the “hard” side more than the other. Your dog will be in better physical shape, and their physiology and gait will stay strong.

As with all dog training, your dog may resist your emphasis on their “off” side. Like all dog training, the most difficult part is patience. And rewards. The more difficult something is for your dog, the more valuable the reward should be. Make it worth your dog’s time to expend the effort. We all work a little more diligently for a great pay day.

Dogs Are Binary

With absolutely nothing to do with gender identity, all dogs are binary. It’s the way they think and the way they learn. If you understand that, you can train your dog successfully.

So what do we mean by binary? Dogs don’t understand “maybe” or shades of gray. Things are either yes or no. On or off. Do or do not. There is no try. If you want to communicate to your dog, be clear. You decide the criteria and stick to it. Otherwise, you’ll just confuse your dog.

Stay Means Stay

Two behaviors where we see people waffling with criteria are stays and positions (i.e. Sit, Down, Stand). 

In competition Obedience, if your dog moves anything other than their head or tail, it’s not a stay. It’s just not. Any movement of your dog’s feet isn’t a stay. Settling to rest on a hip isn’t a stay. Do you need to hold your dog to that standard? That’s up to you. If you’re fine with your dog’s “stay” being “in the general vicinity” that’s up to you. 

The other part of “Stay!” that people muddy up is when the dog is allowed to stop “Staying.” The end of “Stay!” is the release word you’ve taught your dog. The one that lets them know they’re off the clock until you tell them something else to do. If your dog self-releases, that’s not a “Stay.”

To differentiate “Stay!” you may also want to teach your dog a similar behavior with different criteria. “Wait!” could mean a temporary halt, usually while you perform some task. We tell our dogs “Wait!” when we go downstairs to retrieve the laundry. We don’t care what they do once we close the door. Likewise they “Wait!” when we open the door to get the mail. Or when we open the oven so they don’t get burned. 

There’s some discussion among trainers on whether to teach “Stay!” at all. Some suggest that your dog should keep doing whatever you told them until released. If you tell your dog to “Sit!” they should just keep sitting until you release them.

It’s up to you. With decades-long habits behind us, it would take more effort than it’s worth to us to stop using “Stay!” We can see the reasoning on both sides of the issue. You choose what works for you.

Be absolutely clear

For dog sports people, “Sit!” and “Down!” have very specific meanings and distinct criteria. But many people, especially in puppy classes, are so happy their dog isn’t jumping around like a nut job that they accept either one, regardless of what they asked for. 

Again, it’s a case of what matters to you. If you don’t care whether your dog knows “Sit!” from “Down!,” that’s fine. But realize that your dog will never understand there’s a difference between them. It’s easy enough to teach your dog positions – a daily minute of Puppy Pushups takes care of it quickly. We recommend throwing “Stand!” into the Puppy Pushups mix. Your dog’s veterinarian and groomer will thank you for it. 

Don’t fix the flubs

Say you’ve decided to get nice, clean, crisp Sits, Downs, and Stands. If you think your dog knows it, say it once and wait. As soon as they do it, reward. Five seconds later is too late. Time the reward immediately after the action. 

But if you said “Sit!” and your dog went into a “Down!” they’re showing you they’re not sure what you want. Dogs need your feedback. So – Wait. Look at your dog’s butt. Wait a little longer. If the dog doesn’t do it, don’t repeat the command and don’t fall into the trap of “fixing” it. Move a couple feet away and start again.

Attempting to “fix” what the dog got wrong makes it part of the whole “Sit!” experience. If you always have to say it twice, or make a particular motion, your dog doesn’t know the word. They know the whole ritual the behavior has become; say it three times, point at their butt, get a treat and hold it up over their nose.

Keep it simple. Say (or signal) it once. If your dog doesn’t do it, start over someplace else. Commit to clarity for your dog. Remember that dogs are binary. Give them the information they need – yes/no. Off/On. Black/White.