May 2021 - 2 Minute Trainer

Positive reinforcement works

This week we are grateful to the people and government of the great state of Ohio for proving that positive reinforcement works.

It wasn’t an experiment, and it wasn’t dogs that proved it. (Although our dogs prove it every day, through our commitment and philosophy.) People respond to positive reinforcement, consciously. It’s a shining example of the power of this method of training.

Deadly serious

If you watched the news this week you know that the rate of vaccination against COVID 19 has been dropping. Officials, both medical and governmental, around the nation have been scrambling for ways to get more people to overcome vaccine hesitancy and roll up their sleeves.

Getting a vaccine so you’ll be protected against a potentially deadly disease sounds like pretty good motivation. But it wasn’t enough.

Protecting your friends, loved ones, and people who you come into contact with is another good reason. Again, not enough.

Being able to ditch the mask, go places, and do things is an excellent reason to get vaccinated. And it still wasn’t enough.

We’d equate it to giving your dog a pat on the head and saying “Good dog!”

What worked

The State of Ohio got creative.

The state is sponsoring five $1 million dollar drawings open to adults getting the first dose of vaccine. Sign-ups increased by 28%.

Ohio is also offering a chance at one of five full-ride scholarships to any in-state college or university for teens age 12-18 getting a first dose of the vaccine. Vaccine sign-ups skyrocketed by 94% among 16 and 17 year-olds in the state. (Here’s the Ohio Department of Health’s release about the success of the program.)

This is positive reinforcement. This is how people react to the possibility of a great reward.

Pay your dog

Simon is proof that positive reinforcement works.

Yes, your dog loves you and will “work” for you. A pat on the head and “atta boy!” is nice. If you want enthusiastic, eager attention and active learning, pay your dog. The better the reward, the better the response. You’ll find the statistical proof in Ohio.

Dog manners for greeting visitors

Is your dog a nut job when company comes? Do you wish your dog had better manners for greeting visitors?

It’s been especially tough during the pandemic – not many people were open to visiting. Many dogs either forgot the manners they had, or never had a chance to learn polite greetings. You can turn that around, with some basic training games to teach your dog what to do when the doorbell rings.

Doorbell behavior

It’s always easier to teach something “to” do, rather than “not to” do. If your dog learns that the doorbell, or a knock on the door, is a trigger for a specific behavior, you’re giving them a familiar goal.

You won’t necessarily be able to stop your dog from giving a startled bark. A doorbell is meant to alert the household that someone has arrived. What a learned behavior will achieve is making the aftermath of the doorbell sound into a familiar routine.

Teach “Place”

If space and your routine allow it, have a dog bed or mat in view of the door. When you teach your dog “Place” (2-Minute-Trainer.com Book 1) your dog will know that his/her “job” is to run to the bed when the doorbell trigger sounds. It’s really an ideal scenario. Your dog will be able to see what’s going on, you’ll know where your dog is, and whoever is at the door will be able to deliver your pizza without fuss.

If you’re not in the habit of getting deliveries, set up the scenario with a friend or family member when your dog has mastered “Place,” and will dash to the bed or mat as soon as you say your cue word. It doesn’t have to be “Place.” If a different word comes more naturally to you, by all means use it and teach that word to your dog so that he’ll develop better dog manners for greeting visitors.

Choose a different behavior to “do”

One of the biggest obstacles in teaching dog training is getting people to change from the “don’t” words to the “do” words. It’s natural to tell your dog “Off!” when she’s jumping on your friend. (Never “Down!” – that means lie down. Each word has only one meaning for your dog.)

But it’s not helpful. It doesn’t give your dog anything to do. “Stop” doesn’t mean anything to dogs. She’s doing lots of stuff – walking, jumping, sniffing, licking, etc. What do you want her to do?

It takes time and conscious thought to change the “stop doing that” into “Sit!” or “Touch!” Giving your dog a task to perform, one that’s familiar and is always rewarded, if more likely to be successful.

Just like kids

If you’ve ever witnessed, dealt with, or been with squabbling children, it’s a very similar situation. We’re convinced it’s how the vast majority of “road trip games” came into being. Giving them a task, like license plates to look for, is more effective than saying “Stop touching each other!” It separates the children to look out their own windows, and occupies their minds. Do the same for your dog and manners will improve!

Look out for your dog – be an advocate

It looks like the world is starting to open up again. With more events and activities available, it may be time to think about taking your dog to an in-person dog training class. If you do – look out for your dog!

If you’re here, you’re on board with training your dog at home, often, with short, fast, fun, and effective dog training games. It’s a great way to build a strong, consistent, clear relationship. In-person classes are a great adjunct to your at-home sessions – as long as you look out for your dog. We’ve talked before about training classes, and the importance of making sure your dog gets everything out of them.

Respect, but don’t concede

Check out a training class so you can look out for your dog!

Ideally, before you sign up for any dog trainer’s in-person class, you would have the opportunity to observe class and talk to some current and former students. These days, that’s probably not possible.

Instead, you have to thread the needle between enthusiastic participation and critical judgement. The easiest way to say this: Don’t do anything to your dog that makes you uncomfortable. No matter who tells you.

And don’t hand over your leash to anyone unless you’re comfortable they would treat your dog as you would.

Know better, do better

For many years the accepted and universal method for dog training involved physical punishment. Collar “pops” were the order of the day. We cringe when we remember how we were taught. And we’re embarrassed and ashamed by the pain we inflicted on our wonderful dogs.

What do you do if the instructor asks, or tells, you to use negative reinforcement on your dog? It could be a choke collar, prong collar, electronic collar, yelling, hitting, any physical or intimidating method.

Avoid confrontation

The simplest thing to do, and we must admit we’ve used this ourselves, is simply to say “Okay” and then ignore the advice. The instructor may think you’re not very bright, but that’s better than damaging your relationship with your dog.

If the instructor thinks you’re just not “getting it,” he or she may reach for your leash to take your dog and show you how it’s done. Don’t let them. Just say you’re not comfortable with that.

Should the instructor persist, it’s time to let them know why you’re not following their instructions. You are a positive reinforcement trainer and prefer to stick to non-punitive methods.

Look out for your dog

You are your dog’s advocate. Stick to your guns and be strong. Both the science and results speak for themselves – positive reinforcement works. You may have to find another class – or stick to home training if there are no other choices.

Your dog would thank you for it, if she knew how you advocate for her.

Even finicky dogs work for food & Puppy Pushups game

It seems counter-intuitive. Even if there’s a full bowl of food available, dogs work for food. The exact same food that’s in the bowl.

People do the same thing. The psychologist’s name for it is “contra-freeloading.” Even when “free” stuff is available, people will still work for reinforcement, whether it’s money, food, or other valuable rewards. Some of those rewards may be intangible, but they still exist.

More than just the food

We’ve all heard the saying “When you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life.” Dogs love “working.” Even when your dog knows the house rules and grows into a beloved family member, training should be part of life. It’s how we create our dogs’ best life. That’s something we want for everyone we love.

Try it yourself. Your dog will absolutely choose to play training games with you and work for food. If your dog is indifferent to food in a bowl, turn that meal into a training game. Ask for anything! We just gave a step-by-step for the “Touch!” game – alternate hands. Move around. Just don’t bop your dog in the nose with your “Touch!” hand! See if your dog doesn’t get excited about the game and the rewards she gets for playing!

You’ll see a change from fussy eater to eager worker, probably in that first 2-Minute session. And the faster and more fun your game is, the more food will disappear.

Puppy push-ups

Simon is sitting in his work for food session.

Another good mealtime game is “Puppy Push-ups.” Traditionally, it’s a fast-and-furious timed game. How many times can your dog go from “Sit!” to “Down!” in one minute. We like to add another position cue – “Stand!” That way we can mix it up. If your dog doesn’t know all three, now is a good time to teach that, too!

If the game only has two positions, your dog knows what comes next. He doesn’t have to listen or pay attention if he knows what’s coming. Since we want the dogs to actually understand and listen, what comes next should be a surprise. Adding the third position command to the mix does the trick. Your dog never knows what you’ll ask for next, so she has to listen and be ready!

Reward for speed

The more enthusiastic you are about the game, the happier and more excited your dog will be. Dogs feed off our energy. If you’re tired after your day, fake it. It turns into genuine enthusiasm when your dog responds and gets excited to be playing with you.

In the throes of the game, keep your criteria for rewards clear. While it’s better to give too many rewards than too few, try to stay on track and only reward when your dog performs the position you called. If you ask for a “Sit,” and your dog lies down, then stands, or looks confused, wait a few beats before you repeat the command. If he still doesn’t get it, take a tiny break for him to get his head together. Take a step to the side, ask for a touch, and start over.

Just like us

When dogs get too excited, they can stop listening and start doing any old thing to make you smile. It’s adorable, and you can certainly switch gears and have a “freestyle” session. That’s one where you don’t ask for anything, but let your dog have fun and reward the creative behaviors that she creates.

If it’s not what you intended, it’s still okay. You may want to move to a different spot to indicate that it’s a change of games. You can play any game at any time – that’s the beauty of having an entire repertoire of choices for you and your dog.