positive reinforcement dog training Archives

Tired of the Nail Trim Battle? Install a “Start Button” in Your Dog

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Most of life’s surprises aren’t good. Our mindset has always been “hope for the best, prepare for the worst.” But every once in a while, something works out just the way it should. Even in dog training.

Like every profession, good dog trainers are always open to learning from colleagues—both seasoned pros and innovative thinkers just getting started. Sharing ideas, building stronger foundations, and opening up new insights is exciting.

Recently, we attended a virtual masterclass dealing with cooperative care for pets. It dove deep into the idea of “start buttons.” One of the follow-up questions asked if we’d ever taught our own animals a start button. Fortuitously, we realized we already had. We use it multiple times a day, every day.

What’s a “Start Button”?

As the notions of “cooperative care” and “fear-free” handling spread through animal welfare, a Start Button is simply the animal’s distinct signal to the caregiver that they are ready to go ahead with a procedure.

The Setup: Imagine brushing teeth or trimming nails. A Start Button for nails might be your dog willingly placing their paw flat into your open hand. That is them saying, “I’m ready. You may begin.”
The Stop Button: For every “Start,” there must be a paired “Stop.” In this example, the dog simply pulls their paw away.

Respect is Key

It all boils down to respect. For cooperative care to work, we have to respect when the animal in our care says “No,” “Not Now,” or “Not Yet.”

It may take a while to install a Start Button and change a grooming battle into a peaceful process. In the meantime, when those nails have to get trimmed, don’t ask. Just get it done as you always have, outside of your training sessions.

Be patient while you’re building the button. It’s worth it in the long run. Once you build your first one, every subsequent button will be easier.

Torque’s Story: Gradual Cooperation

The Start Button we installed on Hope’s French Bulldog, Torque, happened before we even knew the official name of the game.

Torque, at 11 years old, has issues with his hips. Stairs have never been his favorite thing, and neither has being carried around. He’s always been a bit frightened of both. But the training area and bedroom are on the lower level, while the kitchen is upstairs. Multiple trips are a daily necessity.

His “Go ahead, I’m ready” button is kind of adorable:

Hope puts one arm under Torque’s chest and the other over his butt.
The Button: When he is ready to be lifted, he actively shifts his weight and lifts his chest onto Hope’s arm.
Only then does she lift him.

It happened gradually. He learned that he won’t get picked up before he gives the green light—and he always goes someplace he wants to be.

Slow And Steady: How to Build Your Button

Respect and trust are the foundations of this training. Don’t lie to your dog. Show them what’s going to happen, and reward them for participating.

Let’s use nail trimming as a quick how-to:

Step 1: Introduction. Sit on the floor with your nail clipper (or grinder) and a handful of high-value treats. Invite your dog to check out the tool. Reward them for looking at it, sniffing it, or touching it.
Step 2: Define the Button. Offer your open palm. The moment your dog rests their paw in it, praise and reward. This is your new “Start Button.”
Step 3: Add the Tool. While their paw is in your hand, bring the clipper nearby with your other hand. If the dog keeps their paw in your hand (the “Start” signal), reward. If they pull away (the “Stop” signal), remove the clipper immediately.
Step 4: Inching Closer. Gradually move through the steps—touching the clipper to the nail, turning a grinder on, and eventually clipping a single nail. Always reward at every single step.

If your dog pulls their paw away at any point, that’s okay! Respect the “Stop.” Either take a step back, or end the session for the day.

Build Your Button Today

In time, what might have been a traumatic experience becomes a predictable, stress-free routine. All animals appreciate having some control over what happens to them.

If you’d like to see examples of cooperative care in action, the internet is chock-full of incredible videos. You can find keepers teaching alligators, giraffes, hippos, tigers, and even sharks to voluntarily participate in their own medical care.

If a tiger can do it, you and your dog can, too!

The “Screw-Up Snack”: Reward Your Training Mistakes

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There’s a glitch in the matrix.

Your dog thinks you’re perfect. You know you’re not. Sometimes, like everyone on the planet, you mess up. You use the wrong hand signal, or you say “sit” when you meant “stay.” You know you “oopsed.” But your dog doesn’t have to. Enter the “screw-up snack.”

The Human Instinct That Halts Training

When we make a mistake, our instinct is to verbalize it. We sigh, we groan, or we let out a frustrated “Ugh,” “Damn,” or “No, wait.”

Here is the problem: Your dog doesn’t know it’s possible for you to screw up. They assume the universe operates flawlessly. So when you make a mistake and let out a mini verbal tantrum, your dog thinks they did something wrong. Because they are so attuned to your energy, that tiny drop in your mood can instantly shut them down and kill their confidence.

Flip the Script: The “Screw-Up Snack”

Next time you fumble a cue, don’t sigh. Reward.

Mark your mess-up with a “mistake munchie,” a “screw-up snack,”, an “oops cookie,” or a “goof goody.” The second you realize you blundered, happily hand over a high-value treat.

Your dog won’t have a clue why they just got a freebie, and they won’t care. All they know is that when Mom or Dad confuses their words, awesome things happen. You protect their confidence, keep the training vibe fun, and give yourself a grace period to reset.

Onward & Upward: The Reset

That mistake munchie buys you a few beats to reset your own brain. Once you’ve handed over the treat, take a deep breath, smile into those puppy-dog eyes, and say, “Let’s try that again!”

Even if you were almost done with your training session, it’s important to give it one more successful go so you don’t leave your dog confused.

Dogs—especially softer or less-confident pups—can easily shut down when they sense negative energy. If you fumbled while playing a brand-new game, temporarily go back a step to a version your dog knows well. If the whole game is totally new and clunky, pivot entirely and play one of their absolute favorite, easiest training games just to end on a high note.

While you don’t always have to end a session with a flawless, advanced result, you do want to avoid leaving your dog with the impression they failed. There is no “wrong” when playing training games. You may not get exactly what you were looking for, but you always get great information for next time.

But Wait… Am I Rewarding a Mistake?

People often worry about “rewarding” behavior they didn’t mean to cue. “Isn’t that rewarding the wrong thing?” is a question we hear a lot.

Here is a golden rule to train by: It’s better to give a dog a million rewards they don’t deserve than to miss one they do.

In this case, you are the one who messed up, not the dog. That goof goody simply lets them know that they are doing fine and everything is okay.

Dogs genuinely worry about doing the right thing, and leaving them in limbo causes stress. When dogs aren’t sure what’s happening, they start showing subtle stress signals like lip-licking, yawning, scratching, or turning away.

Use the screw-up snack to ensure your dog always feels safe, confident, and successful. Just don’t tell them the referee made the mistake!

Streamline Your Dog Training: The Commercial Break Dog Training Challenge

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Last week, we talked about building your dog’s habit to play “Touch!” This week, it’s your turn to build a habit with the Commercial Break Dog Training Challenge.

You already know that repetition is the best way to train a dog. But pairing that repetition with a specific trigger is how you cement the habit into your own muscle memory, allowing it to grow seamlessly into your daily routine.

Triggering Your Behavior

When 2-Minute Trainer first started, we were all adjusting to having powerful timers right in our pockets. Smartphones meant we could play training games anytime, anywhere, with very little prep.

Now? It’s even easier.

Whenever we watch TV or stream media, we are periodically interrupted by ads with handy-dandy countdown timers in the corner. Instead of reaching for your phone to scroll social media, you can use that countdown as your trigger for a short burst of training. We call it the Commercial Break Challenge.

Prep Your Favorite Spaces

To make this work, you need to eliminate any friction. If you have to walk to the pantry for treats every time an ad comes on, the habit will die. Instead, preload your relaxation spaces.

Every room in your house can—and should—be a place where you play training games. Here is how to prep:

Grab some stash jars: Get a few small, airtight containers with lids.
Make a “Training Trail Mix”: Mix up a big batch of dry treats. Use a variety ranging from your dog’s regular kibble and cereal “O’s” to high-value rewards like popcorn, freeze-dried chicken hearts, and dehydrated beef liver.
Hide the stash: Scatter these loaded containers around the house—by the couch, on your nightstand, or near your desk.

By including your dog’s absolute favorites in the mix, they will always stay eager to see what prize they win next.

Perfect Timing

The next time an ad timer pops up on the screen, reach for the container.

It doesn’t have to happen during every commercial, or even at the same time every day. But we guarantee that after just two or three ad-break training games, your dog will get excited the moment your hand moves toward that jar.

Eventually, your dog might even recognize the sudden change in volume (seriously, why are commercials so loud?) and jump up ready to work before you even move.

The Best Part: It takes so little time and effort to bolster the bond with your dog, and it makes them incredibly happy. When the ads roll, everybody wins with the Commercial Break Dog Training Challenge.

The Most Powerful Force in the Universe (Use It To Train Your Dog)

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When we start a new dog training class, one of the first questions we ask is, “What’s the most powerful force in the universe?”

About half of the class gets all gushy and says, “Love.” The other half usually goes with “Gravity.”

They’re all wrong. The most powerful force in the universe is habit. Which you already know if you’ve ever tried to break one.

Dogs are creatures of habit, just like we are. And just like it is for people, a dog’s habits can be good, or… not-so-much.

Use Your Power

New, good habits can be built in as little as 50 repetitions, according to neuroscience. That means a new behavior, practiced for just two minutes a couple of times a day, can be established in less than two weeks.

Let’s say you want your dog to pay attention when you say their name. If you play the “Name Game” for a couple of weeks, your dog’s default habit will be to snap their eyes to yours the moment they hear it.

You may think your dog already does this. We’d lay a wager you’re wrong. Try it right now if your dog is nearby.

Say their name. If they look, you have our humble apologies. If they don’t, you’re not alone. People over-use dogs’ names constantly. Most of the time, the dog has zero reason to pay attention because they know, from experience, that nothing interesting is happening.

You can change that in just two weeks.

Building Value with “Touch!”

Even more useful than the Name Game is “Touch!” If your dog is excitable or ill-mannered in public, making “Touch!” the most valuable game in the world is worth your while. It’s the game you play when another dog is down the street barking behind a fence, or when a bunny darts across your path.

But you have to establish the habit of “Touch!” in the house before it can be used in the wild. You have to build that muscle memory until it’s a pure reflex.

How to Play “Touch!”

It’s an easy game to play, yet most people get it wrong. Here is how to do it right:

Position your hand: Plaster your hand, palm out, against your leg at your dog’s nose level. (By your ankle for a Dachshund; by your hip for a Golden Retriever).
Invite them over: Wiggle your fingers.
The “Bop”: The moment your dog checks it out and touches your palm with their nose, say “Yes!”
Deliver the reward: Give them a treat with your other hand directly into your dog’s mouth on your palm.

⚠️ Critical Step: Always use your opposite hand to deliver the treat. If you pre-load your “Touch!” hand with food, your dog is just following a bribe. That’s luring, not rewarding. If you don’t have treats on you later, you’re stuck—the dog’s nose will tell them you’re lying.

Reward Every Single Time

When you’re building the “Touch!” habit, reward every single time your dog bops your palm. Every. Single. Time. That’s how you’re building that habit – the most powerful force in the universe.

Think of this desired behavior like a savings account in your dog’s brain. Every time you practice, the balance grows. Each reward deposits a little more interest. Pretty soon, you are flush with success.

Eventually, you’ll be in an emergency where you don’t have treats—like if a stray cat hisses at your dog on a walk. You call “Touch!” and your dog’s habit compels them to do it.

You’ve just made a huge withdrawal from that savings account. That’s okay! That is exactly what the account is there for. But remember: afterward, you have to go back to basic training and make a few deposits to keep the account in the black.

Your 2-Minute Homework

Ever heard the old joke? Tourist to New Yorker: “How do you get to Carnegie Hall?” New Yorker: “Practice, practice, practice.”

You don’t need to be a virtuoso to have a well-behaved dog. You just need two minutes. Start practicing now. Set a timer on your phone, grab a handful of treats, and go get your first 5 repetitions of “Touch!” out of the way. Your future self will thank you.

The “Sight Seeing” Game: Quieting Your Barking Dog

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We recently lost a student because we couldn’t solve his number one dog issue, barking, within two lessons.

Guess what? We can’t do that for you and your dog either.

Barking is a behavior that’s hard-wired into dogs. If your dog’s a vocalist, changing that is going to take time, effort, patience, and consistency. It can be done. But it’s a long-term goal, not an instant fix.

There are fast fixes. All of them are cruel. You can have your dog surgically “de-barked.” That involves removal of their vocal cords. They still have all the behavior. The sound is just muffled. The other “fix” usually uses a shock collar. Every time the dog barks, they get an electrical shock. If you’re willing to do that to someone you love, we don’t need you here.

The Instinct Behind the Noise

You already know how hard it is to break a habit. Barking isn’t just a habit, it’s an instinct.

Humans have instincts, too. In a mild scenario, think of someone tapping you on your right shoulder when they come up behind you to your left. You immediately turned to your right, where you felt the touch. You both laughed about it, realizing it’s a mild tease. You can control which way you look, but your first instinct is toward the touch. You’d have to actively think about turning the other way. If you’re expecting the same person, you’ll probably override your instinct. But it’s not automatic.

Barking isn’t a choice; it’s an instinct. Think of it as a low-level alert system that translates to:

“I see you!”
“Stranger Danger!”
“I’m scared!”

If you yell, you’re just barking back. If you ignore it, they’ll bark louder to make sure you heard the “threat.”

Dogs who startle easily, or who are more shy, tend to bark more. They’re telling the world to keep its distance until they know everything’s okay. The more dogs know, the bolder they become. Playing any training game goes a long way to instilling that confidence.

How to play “Sight Seeing”

Playing the “Sight Seeing” training game requires a little preparation and a little more time commitment than usual. You don’t put in much time in a solid chunk. But you have to be available for a few moments at a time for a longer period. Think about a time when you’re home, but not committed to meetings, calls, or household chores.

If you’re like most barky-dog owners, you restrict access to the areas where your dog can see outside and start barking. While you’re playing “Sight Seeing,” you restore access and be ready to move. You don’t need any treats or training tools for the game. Just some time you can afford to be constantly interrupted.

So open the drapes, or pull up the blinds, or, as in one student’s case, take the cardboard off the windows. Then go about your business. You can leave the room, but you must be able to hear your dog, so don’t go far.

As soon as your dog barks at something, come back into the room quickly but calmly and get next to your dog. Ask something like “What? What is it? Is the bogeyman coming?”

Look carefully in all directions out the window. If you see something, say dismissively, “Oh, it’s just the neighbor taking out the trash (or whatever you see).” And go back to what you were doing. If you don’t see anything, look around again and say something like “What? I don’t see anything.” And go back to what you were doing.

Sharing the Attitude

By exhibiting excitement when your dog barks, you’re letting them know you trust them and believe their excitement has a reason. When you let them know there’s nothing to be excited about, they’ll take their cue from your indifference and calm down.

You’re modeling the attitude you want your dog to adopt. If you yell at them for barking you’re telling them that excitement is okay. Dogs don’t understand that stream of words you’re yelling. They just know you’re participating in a mutually loud conversation.

If you ignore the barking, your dog will think you don’t appreciate the urgency of the situation and they’ll probably escalate.

Your goal is to show your dog, in a way they’ll understand, that being the neighborhood watch can be a quiet activity.

Set Limits You Can Live With

Most people can endure about five or ten minutes of this game. Like all training games, it’s best when it’s short and intense. When you’ve had your fill of rushing back and forth, just close the blinds and try again another day.

This behavior modeling takes some time for dogs to absorb. If you want to let the sunshine in, you have a couple of choices. Play Sight Seeing until your dog gets the lesson. Or get blinds that open from the top instead of the bottom of the window.

⏱️ The 2-Minute Recap: The “Sight Seeing” Game

The Goal: Show your dog that you’ve heard their alert and that you’ve got the situation under control.

Preparation: Open the blinds or drapes in a high-traffic area. Go about your normal business nearby.
The Trigger: As soon as your dog barks, move quickly (but calmly) to their side.
The Investigation: Look out the window with them. Use a curious, low-energy tone: “What is it? What do you see?”
The Dismissal: Identify the “threat” and dismiss it with indifference: “Oh, it’s just the neighbor. No big deal.”
The Exit: Walk away and return to your task immediately. Do not linger or scold.
The Limit: Play for 5–10 minutes at a time. When you’ve had enough, close the blinds to “end” the game and give your dog a break.

Pro Tip: If you want the light without the barking, look into top-down/bottom-up blinds. They let the sunshine in while keeping the “neighborhood watch” triggers out of sight!

Stop Dead! The Simple Game to End Leash Pulling

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When you were a little kid, your parents had to tie your shoes for you. Once you learned how to do it yourself, the grown-ups left you to it.

Your dog can’t tie shoes. But they can learn to walk politely on a loose leash. The hitch here is that you have to teach it in a way your dog will get the message and understand.

Breaking the Habit

If you’re just starting out with a puppy, the best way to teach loose-leash walking is to never let them start pulling. 3-Step Pattern Walking from day one works.

Teaching Pattern Walking to an older dog takes longer. Adult dogs have habits to overcome. If your dog already has a pulling habit, you may need a more immediate solution. That’s where the “Stop Dead!” game comes into play.

🛑 Before you start

The first time you play “Stop Dead!” you’re probably not going to get very far. It’s going to be tedious for you and frustrating for your dog. But it graphically demonstrates to your dog how they’re supposed to behave.

Keep it short and fun: Like all training games, brevity is key.
Gear up: Hook your dog up to their harness and head out.
High-Value Rewards: Prepare with plenty of delicious treats.

⏱️ Timing is crucial

As soon as the leash is taut – stop. That may be right when you go out the door. It could be when you hit the sidewalk. Or turn the corner. Or your dog sees a SQUIRREL. You have to be prepared to stop in your tracks whenever that leash gets tight.

The “Subway-Rider’s” Stance

Around here, everybody recognizes the “El” posture: legs slightly apart, knees bent and bouncy, ready to absorb the impact. Especially if you have a big dog, assume this position when you “Stop Dead!”

The Next Hard Part: Silence

Don’t cajole your dog. Don’t say “here, Fido” or wiggle a treat at them. This is the crucial point where your dog has to figure out what to do to get you moving again.

Stand firm as long as there’s tension in the leash.
Wait for the slack. As soon as the leash goes loose (because they turned to look at you or backed up), tell them they’re good.
Reward at your side. Offer the treat right next to your leg.
Resume walking. You can walk, praise, and offer treats all at the same time.

Dogs can chew while they’re walking. Both dogs and people can multi-task. This is the time.

Case Study: Katie & Oscar

Most dogs figure out quickly that they control forward motion. We have a student, Katie, with a five-year-old Rottweiler named Oscar who would pull like a tugboat.

The first time Katie “Stopped Dead,” Oscar was so surprised he came back to see what was wrong. He got a treat, and they walked… for about two steps. Then he pulled again.

The second time, Oscar strained forward for 30 seconds. It felt like an eternity to Katie, but she stayed silent. When Oscar finally turned his head to look at her, the leash went slack. That was the “Aha!” moment. Oscar got his treat, and the next stretch lasted six steps instead of two.

For the lesson to be effective, you can’t help your dog figure out what to do. They have to puzzle it out for themselves.

💡 Be Patient

There’s a lot of stop-and-go in this game. You aren’t going to be running any errands the first time you play. However, each successive time you play, you’ll get a bit farther. Eventually, your dog will figure out that pulling doesn’t work.

Hopefully, your dog will be rewarding you with a loose leash and a happy trot in no time!

The “Rule of Thumb” for Reactive Dogs

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If your dog is triggered by sights and sounds on your daily walks, you need to use your thumb for something besides swiping your screen.

The “thumb trick” is easy. You always have your thumbs with you, so make use of them to help your dog stay calm in the neighborhood. Your new Rule Of Thumb – if your thumb, held at arm’s length, covers the trigger object, you’re far enough away. If you can still see it, you’re too close. Turn around and go in the opposite direction.

If you can still see the ‘beast’ around your thumb, the ‘beast’ is too close for your dog’s brain to handle.

When you’re at ‘thumb distance,’ that’s the perfect time to drop a high-value treat. You’re rewarding the calm observation before the explosion happens

Distance is your friend

No matter what sends your dog into berserker mode, there’s always a safe distance to stay below threshold. It’s going to be different for every dog, so you’re the one who has to pay attention and figure out whether “thumb-covered” is far enough away. Whether it’s bicycles, other dogs, squirrels, people, or even nannies floating by on umbrellas, there’s a safe zone where your dog can watch calmly.

Finding your dog’s safe zone will make your life easier. You won’t have to stay there forever. The goal is making wherever you go part of the safety zone. But identifying it, no matter how tiny, gives you a starting point. And your safety zone is the perfect spot to do a little focus work, like playing the “Touch” game.

Pro Tip: Your most difficult task in expanding the zone will be constantly scanning the environment. The more triggers you can avoid, the calmer your dog will be. You don’t have to be perfect, but every time your dog loses their cool is a step backwards. It’s definitely one of those “two steps forward, one step back” situations.

72 Hour Adrenaline Rush

A single doggy meltdown produces a rush of hormones, specifically adrenaline and cortisol, that can take up to three days to leave the dog’s system. That’s 72 hours when your dog is more stressed, overly stimulated, and hyper-aware.

In our neighborhood there’s a pair of German Shepherd Dogs that react negatively to every person and dog, whether we’re walking by their house or they’re passing ours. These dogs are always super-charged because they never, ever have a chance to flush the hormones from their systems. They are living in a permanent state of high alert.

That’s why you want to avoid those triggers as much as possible for as long as possible. Aside from the chemical change to the dog’s body, you want to develop emotional calm as a habit. Dogs are allowed to watch, notice, and pay attention to their surroundings. They’re not allowed to lose their sh** about it.

What is Trigger Stacking?

Trigger stacking is when a dog experiences multiple stressors within a short period of time, without an opportunity to recover. Think of it like a bucket filling up:

A trip to the vet…
A squabble over a toy…
A canvasser ringing the doorbell.
The bucket overflows..

Note: some trainers intentionally “flood” dogs with triggers in the (mistaken) belief it will “desensitize” the dog to those triggers. What it really does is cause the dog’s brain to shut down and send them into “fight or flight” mode.

Give your dog time to regain their equilibrium. If you keep them below threshold using the Rule of Thumb trick, your chances of actually reaching them multiply exponentially.

Impulse Control Training Game: Whatcha Gonna Do?

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What would life look like if your dog was able to make good decisions? If they pondered the options and chose well? If they actually thought about consequences and opted to be “good?”

How much better would your partnership be if you didn’t always have to regulate your dog’s behavior?

It’s all possible. There’s a bit of effort and a lot of patience required. But you can do it!

Impulse Control Training Game

The best training game to teach your dog impulse control is “Whatcha Gonna Do?” It’s a variant of the game “It’s Yer Choice” developed by renowned trainer/agility competitor Susan Garrett. We’ve tweaked it a bit over the years. We’ve found that despite the long-term gains the game brings, few people are willing to stick with it to reap those benefits.

It’s worth it, especially when you only play for a couple minutes at a time. The tiny time investment has a tremendous payout. But the initial steps may be painful. (Please note that other games can be found in Book 4: Impulse Control.)

Steps of the game

To play “Whatcha Gonna Do?” all you need is a bunch of treats and your dog. Sit on the floor with your dog in front of you. Grab a handful of treats in your fist and hold your fist, palm up, in front of your dog, below their eye level.

At this point your dog is going to nibble on your hand. Paw at your hand. Start gnawing on your hand. It’s not going to be fun. It will be slimy. And it might hurt, especially if it’s a puppy with those needle-sharp teeth.

You don’t say anything. You especially DO NOT tell your dog what to do. The whole point of teaching them impulse control is so you don’t have to monitor their every action. If you give up now, you’ll be policing their every action for the rest of their life.

You may, however, squeak in pain if your dog’s nibble is very painful. But if you’re not in danger of losing a digit or some blood, keep your mouth closed.

At this point, you want to quit. It’s not working, it hurts, and your hand is all gooey. This is where many people give up. Don’t give up. Don’t say anything. Impulse control training games are worth it.

What’s the goal

Some dogs stay at this stage for quite a while. You may not accomplish anything at all the first time you play Whatcha Gonna Do? But you might. The first inkling of thought is when the dog takes a break.

At the first tiny interruption in the dog bothering your hand, they glance away, they hear a sound outside, they have to yawn, you reach into your fist with the other hand, grab a treat, and give it to your dog. Give the treat at arm’s length. This gives your dog the seed of an idea to step away from the hand.

Even if your dog stops bothering your treat hand for the tiniest fraction of a second, reward it from the other hand. At some point, after the dog gets an initial treat, they’re going to start wondering how to get more of those yummy nuggets.

Some dogs catch on quickly and start backing off, leaving the treat hand alone. Others are blessed with dogged persistence and take a while. But every single dog can learn to leave that treat hand alone. They can, eventually, understand the underlying bargain of dog training. They get what they want when we get what we want.

Don’t give up

Whatcha Gonna Do? isn’t designed to play for long. Forcing your dog to think is tiring for both of you. Giving them the freedom to choose, without you directing their action, stretches both of your limits. Regardless of progress, or lack thereof, stop playing after five minutes. Tomorrow’s another day.

In time, your dog will recognize the start of the game. When you grab some treats and sit on the floor, they’ll happily back off while you reach into the treat hand and reward them. That’s when you start the next step – open your hand.

The reason your treat hand is palm up is so that you can, in time, sit there with a whole handful of treats, clearly visible to the dog, and have them wait to be rewarded, like Booker in the still photo (after he’s practiced the game for a little bit). When you first start opening your hand, chances are your dog may lunge in to try to get them. Slam your fist shut, as in the little video below. Don’t say anything. Not even a “whoopsie!” The whole point is demonstrating to the dog that their decision, good or bad, drives the action of the game.

Eyes on the prize

Eventually, when your dog understands the game, you’ll be able to sit there with an entire bowl of treats on the floor, and your dog will do all kinds of cute things to get you to give, or toss, a treat to them. Dogs trained with positive reinforcement have an entire repertoire of tricks they’ll run through. Each time your dog does something that isn’t bothering your treat hand, reward it.

Dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. Playing Whatcha Gonna Do? teaches the dog that the way to get rewarded is to control their impulses. Being a rude jerk gets them nothing. Thinking and acting politely gets them what they want.

Variations on a theme

Once your dog understands that being a nuisance gets them nothing, you can use “Whatcha Gonna Do?” in other contexts. If your dog is a counter-surfer, set up the training game. Be prepared to cover whatever’s drawn their attention up there and wait. When they give up and have four paws on the floor, toss a treat into their corner of the kitchen. Whenever your dog’s being rude, you can apply the principles of “Whatcha Gonna Do?” to the situation. Impulse control training games are worth it: when you require your dog to act thoughtfully, they can and do live up to expectations.

Save Your Dog (and Your Nose): Why the Recall is the Only Command That Truly Matters

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“Come!” is absolutely crucial

When you call your dog to “Come!” on cue, it isn’t just a good idea. It can save your dog’s life. It can also save your nose.

From the memory files:

Case #1: A friend unexpectedly knocked on our door. We corralled most of the dogs, but Booker (who’s special in a not-so-good way) slipped out and was headed for the street. As he was bouncing back and forth, clearly in play mode, a car was approaching. We couldn’t panic, but we had to get him back to safety. Against every human instinct, Hope ran, fast as she could, away from Booker, calling his name. As dogs reliably will, he chased her right into our fenced yard.

Case #2: Hope had Razzmatazz out for last-outing-before-bedtime. As they reached the backyard, Hope spotted a skunk in the yard. First instinct? Panic! Thinking mode: Yelled “Come!” and started running back to the door. Snagged Razzy as soon as he got close enough and the tomato-juice supply went untapped.

Rule of the Recall

In dog training, the “Come!” command is called the Recall, so that’s what we’ll use. There are two kinds of Recall; the Chase Recall and the Stationary Recall.

The one absolute rule, regardless of which you’re using, is Never Call Your Dog To You For Anything They Don’t Like.

If your dog hates getting a bath, never call them into the bathroom for a bath. Go get them. Lead them in.

It’s a trust thing. If you only ever call your dog for happy, fun things (training games, meals, walks), they’ll know good things await. If they can’t rely on that being true, they have no reason to do what you want.

Start With the Chase

Dogs are hard-wired to notice and pursue motion. It’s why a bunny in motion attracts their attention. A bunny frozen in place (instinct on display) will probably not be noticed. It’s why Hope ran away from Booker when he slipped out of the house.

To play the Chase Recall game, put your dog in a Sit/Stay. If your dog doesn’t have a reliable Stay!, have someone hold the dog. (Check out this article for getting an unbreakable Stay!) Turn your back and walk away. When you’re about half-way to the other side of the room or yard, break into a run and yell your dog’s name. When they catch up to you, celebrate and reward heavily. This is a great opportunity to use a tug toy as a reward. It reinforces the fun of coming to you.

For an extra measure of security, when your dog reaches you, grab onto their collar or harness and immediately release it. (Simon is playing the Collar Grab game with Fran in the photo.) This teaches the dog that it’s not a big deal. And lays the foundation of getting hold of them when you really need to. Like when there’s a skunk loose in your yard.

Stationary Recall

When your dog is reliably coming at speed, try the Stationary Recall. Put your dog in a Sit / Stay and confidently walk away. With your back to the dog. If you’re hesitant, walking backwards, or keep repeating, it tells your dog you don’t really mean it.

When you get a few feet away, turn around and call your dog. The more enthusiastic you sound, the faster your dog will run to you. When they get close, tell them to “Sit!” This builds the habit of politely greeting people. When they do, celebrate with treat rewards or a game of tug.

Always Be Happy They “Come!”

Just like you’ll never call your dog for unpleasant things, always be happy when they arrive. If you call your dog 99 times and they don’t come, but they do on the 100th attempt, you still celebrate. It’s a complete command-killer to greet them with “Where were you?” Even if you’re a bit frustrated, put it aside and celebrate the little win. You’ll know the cue needs more practice. Make a mental note and put it aside. Play with your good dog.

The Doggy Paycheck: Why Your Pup Won’t Work for Free

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Positive reinforcement training is based on one single premise: dogs will always, without exception, do what is most rewarding to them.

The focus of your training has to be making what you want the most rewarding option. Your choice has to be, in the dog’s opinion, the best thing available.

To convince your dog, you have to build a history. If your dog always gets rewarded for doing what you want, they’re more likely to continue doing it. They get their doggy paycheck every time they do what you want.

If, however, your rewards are inconsistent or absent, the dog has no reason to do what you want. There’s always something interesting to do. It may or may not be what you want them to do. The environment is your biggest competitor. If a squirrel is a $100 bill and your treat is a nickel, the squirrel wins every time.

Hierarchy of rewards

One of the first lessons of reward-based training is figuring out what’s valuable to your dog. You may want your dog to love the expensive, organic, healthy treats you bought. But you can’t make that love connection happen. In our classes we always have extra treats available for our students. The treats we provide aren’t healthy, good-for-dogs, or expensive. They’re the junk food french fries of dog treats. Because they work. Dogs love them.

We’re not saying you have to buy junk dog treats. We’re saying you have to find the rewards that your dog would (virtually) run through fire to get. Don’t be surprised if it’s something weird. One of our dogs would kill for celery. Another thinks celery is poisonous. It’s not our choice, it’s the dog’s.

Transfer of value

Let’s use Torque, the celery fiend, as our example. If he always gets celery when he does Puppy Push-ups, before long he’s going to get all excited to do them. In his little doggy brain, that incredibly yummy treat is paired with Puppy Push-ups. The value of the treat is associated with playing that awesome game. And he loves doing it.

Once your dog has made that pairing, your reward delivery can become more random. But it can’t go away forever. If it does, the behavior will, too.

Think of it this way: You love every single aspect of your job. Your work is fascinating. Your colleagues are awesome. You even get a catered lunch every day. Are you still going if you don’t get paid? Of course not. Your bargain with your employer is to complete assigned tasks in exchange for compensation.

Your dog gets the benefit of the same deal. Their task is to be a good dog. Their compensation (doggy paycheck) is the rewards you provide.

Just for the fun of it

You don’t have to reward your dog constantly for just being good. If they’re doing something you didn’t ask them to do, just a pat or a “good dog!” is fine, if you notice it.

But if you’ve told your dog to do something and they do it, that good behavior should be acknowledged. That’s good training and living up to your side of the deal.