reward-based training Archives - Page 8 of 10

Dog training is teamwork

At the bottom of this post you’ll find links to the winning performances of the AKC Virtual Trick Dog competitions for the last two years. What’s most notable isn’t that the dogs are wonderful, which they are. It’s that the dogs are doing pretty normal tricks. And not necessarily getting them right on the first try. What’s spectacular is the narrative their people put together. It lets them show off their wonderful dogs doing fun stuff. Because good dog training is teamwork.

Reward for right

The other thing we noticed is that the people stopped to reward when their dogs did well. Even while recording a competition video. Because letting your dog know when they’re “right” has to be different from being “wrong.” It’s a lesson that’s hard for many of our students. We wish we had a nickel for every time we said: “Getting it right should be rewarded.” At every opportunity. Even for behaviors your dog’s known since he/she was a puppy. (Here’s more about rewards.)

Most of the tricks the dogs perform in these videos are variations on the themes of “get on it,” “get over it,” “go through it,” “carry it,” and “put it over there.” All of them are within your dog’s capabilities. The dogs don’t do the narrated routines on their own. Their people are there, showing them what to do every step of the way. And the dogs’ tails are wagging throughout. These dogs are having a good time.

Your dog training team

Dogs doing things and being rewarded are featured in the Trick Dog Championship videos. — Torque is carrying a cardboard tube.

You can see the dogs watching their people throughout. They’re anticipating having more fun. And treats. But they’re not harassing the “cookie hand.” These dogs know that when they do what they should, they’ll be rewarded for it. These dogs aren’t dragging through their routines. They’re practically dancing from one trick station to the next.

It’s also worth noting that when the dogs don’t get it right the first time the only thing that happens is they get to try again. There’s no punishment. There’s just another chance to get it right. And be rewarded for it.

That’s the agreement we make with our dogs. When we get what we want, they get what they want. Mostly what they want is our attention. And treats. Dog training is all about the team. Playing fun games, teaching dogs how to make good decisions, having fun, and expanding their understanding.

Not robot dogs

Will your dog mess up? Sure. Everybody does. Some days are better than others. And there will be 2-Minute dog game sessions that are a mess from the start. Even those sessions have some value because it teaches us how to change gears and try something else.

It’s important that you’re easy on yourself and your dog. These top-winning Trick Dog competitors are ready to try again when their dogs miss the first try. They’re quick with the rewards when their dogs get it right. And they’re not afraid to show the world they and their dogs aren’t perfect. They’re proud to show off their amazing dogs.

https://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3ohttps://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3o 2021 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Miniature Poodle)

https://youtu.be/7zsO5IdLPBY 2022 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Australian Terrier)

Find It! Dog Game

The “Find It!” Dog Game hits all the right buttons for most dogs. They are, by nature, hunters. Sniffing for “prey” is something just about every dog does. It’s a part of their instinct to seek, even though our pets don’t have to worry about where the next meal is coming from. This is one instance where training really does use a behavior that’s natural for your dog!

Since this game encourages wandering and sniffing, most dogs love it and take to it like a duck to water. It’s a variation on “nose work” dog sports. In AKC Scent Work, “dogs search for cotton swabs saturated with the essential oils of Birch, Anise, Clove, and Cypress. The cotton swabs are hidden out of sight in a pre-determined search area, and the dog has to find them. Teamwork is necessary: when the dog finds the scent, he has to communicate the find to the handler, who calls it out to the judge.”

Any Scent Will Do

Torque is ready to play the "Find it!" dog game — Torque’s ready to play the “Find it!” dog game

Unless you’re planning on going into competition with your dog, you don’t have to use those scents. There are commercially-available scent-work kits, but you don’t need the “official” items to get started. In fact, Hope used plain old cotton rounds used for makeup, and some “unofficial” nutmeg essential oil to start playing the game with Torque.

He loved it right away. Like most dogs, Torque has an aggravating habit of sniffing anything and everything in the yard. Finding a game that lets him use that skill, instead of being discouraged from it, was heaven-on-earth to that dog. After all, dogs’ ability to discern odors is thousands of times better than ours. We can’t really know how dogs perceive the world by scent. But we can make the experience richer, useful, and fun for them.

Get Started

Any training game you play with your dog starts with familiarizing the “stuff.” In this case,put a couple drops of the oil on the cotton round. Then hold the round at your dog’s nose level, a few inches away. Unless your dog hates the scent, they will move forward to sniff the round. Dogs just can’t help themselves. They’re compelled to check out new things with their noses.

When your dog sniffs, click and reward, saying “Good Find It!” or whatever phrase you’re going to use. After a few repetitions, your dog will figure out his “job” is to sniff the thing. It’s probably one of the easiest games to teach – especially for dogs who love sniffing.

Hide and Seek

Once your dog associates the smelling with getting rewarded, you can try moving it around. At first, just alternate hands or move one or two steps. If your dog eagerly follows the round, you’re ready to move to the next phase of the game.

At first you’ll “hide” the cotton round in plain sight. If you have another person around, stand with your dog facing away from the area the scent will be hidden. Let your dog sniff it, click and reward, then give it to the other person to “hide.”

If your dog has shown a tendency to want to eat the cotton round, or take it into mouth, have the person put it under something porous enough for the dog to get the scent, like a basket. If you’re using a box, you may have to punch some holes in it at first for the dog to understand the game.

Once the round is hidden in plain sight, a few feet away, turn around with your dog and encourage them to “Find it!” When they do, click and reward.

Degree of Difficulty

As your dog understands the game and becomes more proficient, move the scent higher. Or put it in a covered container. “Containers” is one of the tests for dogs in Scent Work competition, and those are closed, plastic containers. Dogs’ noses are powerful enough to “Find It!” even if it’s buried, outdoors, or even in a vehicle. Scent Work is the basis for the work of law enforcement sniffer dogs. Different circumstances, different smells. But essentially the same kind of game.

If your dog is a sniffing prodigy, you’ll probably enjoy doing Scent Work in competition. There are several different organizations who hold trials. You can see what group is most active in your area and look for classes near you.

The “Find It!” game quickly becomes a favorite for most dogs and people. It’s using the dog’s natural instincts and turning it into a game you can play together. Expand the game to different smells, different places, and different elevations to keep it fresh and fun.

Training helps dogs choose wisely

Positive reinforcement training doesn’t mean your dog gets to do whatever they want whenever they want. It means that you, as the dog’s teacher, must help your dogs choose wisely. Good decisions are rewarded. Poor ones are ignored.

There are times that we ask too much of the dogs. That’s on us, not the dog. It happened today in Simon’s 2-Minute session this morning. Simon is Fran’s four-year-old Boston Terrier.

Training for Rally Obedience

One of the exercises often used in Rally courses is the Figure 8 with distractions. (This is a different kind of distraction than those Simon faced at an Agility trial, but the training to deal with any distraction is similar, as you’ll see.) Those distractions are bowls on either side containing either dog treats or dog toys. The objective is to heel with your dog in a figure-8 pattern around two pylons, despite the distractions.

Simon does great (after some training) when the bowls contain treats. While he’s food-motivated, treats are not his number-one reward. Toys are.

This morning Fran put a single bowl with some treats out and practiced heeling with Simon around the bowl. He was fine. Attentive to what he was doing and, after a glance or two, ignoring the distraction. His response was exactly right. He got lots of praise and treats.

Changing the question

Simon answered that question perfectly. So it was time to change the question and see if he answered right again. Fran replaced the treats in the bowl with a low-value dog toy. It blew his little doggy brain.

Simon did fine getting into perfect heel position. He stayed sitting, until Fran said “Heel!” He dashed for the toy in the bowl and took off. Fran held onto the toy, not letting him tug or chew, and told him to “drop it.” He did, which earned him a treat reward.

Fran set up again, a little further from the bowl, with a higher-value treat, but essentially the same question. We got the same, wrong answer. It was time to change the question – this one was too difficult for Simon today.

That’s also an important distinction. It was too much today. Another day, it might not be a big deal. But today we had to find a way to help Simon choose wisely.

Making positive changes

We switched the reward to a toy Simon likes even more than the one in the bowl. Fran played a short game of tug with him to show him what a wonderful treat was in store for him. And set up for heeling again. He almost chose wisely, but the “bird in the hand” option was still too tempting.

Helping dogs choose wisely means rewarding heavily when they do! — Vigorous game of “tug” after ignoring the distraction.

Next change: covering the toy and bowl with an open basket. Simon could still see the toy in the bowl, but there was a barrier to instant access. With this change, he was finally able to heel around the distraction successfully. And was immediately rewarded with a vigorous game of tug with the toy in Fran’s pocket.

Success not required

While not every session has to “end with a win,” we called a halt at that point. We’d already asked Simon to think hard, answer difficult questions, and concentrate.

Next time we visit this exercise – the Figure 8 with distractions – we’ll start where we left off today. With the toy visible but not accessible. We’ll start with the easier question and build up to the more difficult ones.

Dogs aren’t psychic and they don’t speak English. They do communicate clearly, if we’re paying attention. Yes, we do training to challenge our dogs. But we don’t want to overwhelm them by asking too much. If your dog is making bad decisions – it’s time to rethink the questions you’re asking.

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm.

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more.

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn. — Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.

Good Dogs Should Always Be Rewarded

We met a woman this week whose two-year-old daughter thinks their dog’s name is “Good Dog!” We laughed about it, but it rings true. This woman is so accustomed to saying “Good Dog!” it could be the dog’s name. It’s not. The dog’s name is actually Miko.

Is there such a thing as too much praise for your dog? Too many treats? Is it possible to play too many games and have too much fun with your dog?

Of course not!

Too much of a good thing

In human terms, can you ever hear too much sincere praise from your boss? Knowing you’re doing well isn’t a reason to stop trying. It’s encouragement to keep going. And maybe even try even more, since you know your efforts are being appreciated.

Simon - a good dog is rewarded. — Simon’s a good dog who’s being rewarded!

It’s very common for people to assume there’s a time limit for rewarding their dog for good behavior. Once their dog is “trained” (as if you’re ever done!), they can stop rewarding. There is no time limit. Throughout your dog’s life, let them know you like what they’re doing. They’re good dogs. And you love them. Just like no human likes being taken for granted, dogs should be appreciated just for being good dogs!

Worried about spoiling

“But I don’t want to ‘spoil’ my dog! He’ll expect treats all the time!”

We hear that a lot, especially from new dog owners.

Realistically, what’s the harm in spoiling your dog? Your dog is never going to have to fend for himself in society. He doesn’t have to be a responsible citizen, get a job, pay rent, vote, drive, or even shop for groceries. Your dog’s one and only “job” is to be a good dog. A much-loved member of the family. Who doesn’t poop on the floor.

And is it really “spoiling” if you’re acknowledging your dog’s respect for the rules you’ve set? If your dog is doing the “job” you’ve assigned, shouldn’t he be paid for a job well done?

Let’s make it about you, instead. You have a job you love. You enjoy the work, your office, your colleagues, even the corporate culture of your workplace. Are you still going to work if you don’t get paid? (There are never too many treats in dog training either!)

Pay your good dogs

Maybe we just need a change in terms. Instead of “rewarding” good behavior, maybe we should just consider it payment for a job well done. After all, a reward sounds like a one-time deal – a single recognition of some achievement. Instead, maybe we should look at treats/playtime/praise as just part of your dog’s regular salary for being a very good dog.

Bribing dogs to behave

Are we bribing our dogs or rewarding them? — Do we bribe our dogs or pay them for a job well done?

Is reward-based dog training the same as bribery? Are we bribing dogs to behave? Is there something wrong with constantly rewarding dogs?

Let’s break it down into terms even our most resistant students understand instantly. You have a job. You love all aspects of your job – the work you do, the place you do it, the people you work with. It’s an ideal situation and you couldn’t be happier.

Would you still do it if you didn’t get paid?

Your dog’s job is to be a great companion, a member of the family who conforms to the rules of the household. When your dog does a good job – shouldn’t they get paid, too?

Because we say so!

At a certain toddler age, every child goes through a “Why?” stage – questioning everything. It’s a normal part of development, but that doesn’t mean it’s not sometimes frustrating. At some point, everyone has lost patience and said “Because I say so!”

At this point the child understands only that you’re angry with them. They don’t understand the source of the anger, or what happened to change the mood. Neither does your dog.

Even adult dogs are persistent toddlers. The smartest dogs in the world will never go to college, never support themselves, never become responsible taxpayers. We choose to be their guardians throughout their lives.

Asking your dog to consistently do what you want, without any hope of reward, is unrealistic. “Because I say so” only works some of the time. “Because you love me” only works some of the time. Without some kind of reward, your dog has no reason to do as you ask. Is it bribing your dog to behave? Maybe. Do we care?

Rewards come in different forms

It doesn’t mean you have to be a constant “Pez dispenser” as one of our students phrased it. It does mean that your dog’s good behavior should be acknowledged – with words, play, pets, scratches, treats, or anything your dog loves. Our article “Lots of ways to reward your dog” discusses this in more depth.

Give your dog a reason to choose wisely. The more you reward your dog for making good choices, the better they’ll become at choosing. What gets rewarded gets repeated.

So is it bribery? Some may see it that way. The promise of a reward is motivating for both people and dogs. So – pay your dog.

Luring vs. rewarding

Actually, luring, which is not the best dog training, is more akin to bribery. We like to think of positive reinforcement training, reward-based training, as the best bargain you can make with your dog. They get what they want when we get what we want. Sounds like a good deal for everyone.

If you consider it bribing dogs, we’re okay with that. It gets results, that that’s what matters.

Body language wins

It was like a revelation to our puppy class students. When you want your dog to release something, you don’t tug on it. That’s just common sense. One of dogs’ favorite games is tug. Being the logical creatures they are, dogs think that if you’re tugging, you’re playing. If your mouth is saying “drop it” or “let go” but your body language is saying “PLAY WITH ME!” – body language wins.

As a matter of fact, body language pretty much always wins. We’ve mentioned before how dogs are wonderful at reading signaled behaviors. It’s even a requirement in competition obedience. Not a word, just a gesture clues your dog into what you want him/her to do.

Try it yourself. If you’re like most people, your dog knows both the word “Sit!” and some kind of gesture that you always use that goes along with it. While you’re making the motion for “sit!”, say “Down!” instead. We’d bet your dog puts the emphasis on the motion.

Hard wired for motion

It makes sense. Dogs are predators. They’re attracted to motion. It’s exciting and gets their attention. They’re not animals that communicate with sound. We must make a conscious effort to teach our dogs to listen to the actual words we’re saying. Otherwise, we’re doomed to sound like the adults in the Peanuts cartoons “wah wah wah wah wah.”

Torque starts with a sit on the stool. — Does Torque “have his ears on?”

It can be done. Every other morning Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, does specific exercises on a low stool that involve his hips/knees/ankles. Frenchies are notoriously front-heavy, so we make sure he works on strengthening his back end. The specific commands Hope uses are “Squat!” for him to put his front legs on the floor with his back end on the stool, and “Crouch!” for him to move off the back end with his front on the stool.

Hope is sure to “mix up” the order (with a “Sit!” on the stool between). Not knowing what’s coming up next, Torque has to listen. And Hope has a good indicator of how attentive he is that day – whether he “has his ears on” or not.

Get something to trade

So, when your dog steals your underwear out of your drawer and your natural instinct is to grab it, what are you supposed to do? (By the way, it’s best to address those bad habits now, because puppies don’t usually “grow out” of them.)

This was one of our puppy students’ real-life scenarios, and it ended with a trip to the emergency veterinarian’s office when the puppy ate the undies.

So yes, grab it. And hold on for dear life. You don’t want to make that trip to the vet.

But don’t pull. Just hold on. If you can, hold with both hands, one on either side of the dog’s mouth. And stay as still as you possibly can. If someone else is there, have them hold the dog so she can’t initiate the tug game. (Because, again, body language wins. If you’re calm and still, chances are your dog might be a little more calm.) If you’re alone, move forward, backing the dog into a dead-end space, if you can. Sometimes, just the action of moving the item further into the dog’s mouth will get them to release it.

Try to speak calmly and say whatever you want in a nice voice. If you amp up the volume, your dog will get more excited. The objective is to make the situation as un-game-like as possible. If there is someone else there, or if you can reach something, offer a particularly delicious treat or favorite actual tug toy in exchange.

Next week we’ll work on the “Drop it!” game

Training for Quiet in the Crate

Is your dog quiet in the crate? Crate training is probably the best thing that’s happened to dogs in the last couple of decades. It allows dogs to be “good” all the time when learning potty training. Crate training is also valuable in other situations, as we discussed in a very early article.

Many people, certainly at first, were reluctant to use crates or cages. There is still some resistance, but overall most people have come to realize that dogs are most secure, comfortable, and relaxed when in an enclosed, familiar spot.

Why crate training works

Simon, Boston Terrier, is perfectly comfortable and quiet in his crate. — Simon is comfortable and quiet in his crate.

The original explanation for crate training theorized that dogs are descended from wolf or fox ancestors, all of which are den animals. They’re most comfortable and secure in cozy dens. It makes sense, even if it’s a stretch of the truth. It even explains why many dogs prefer round, bolster beds, and sleep all curled up.

By retaining the crate, you’re allowing your dog to be “off duty” when you’re not around. And, in unfamiliar situations, it’s a comfort zone for them.

But what if your dog fusses while crated? It happens in our Rally Class. Dogs participate one at a time, and aside from when the dogs are taking their turn, are supposed to be crated. There are some dogs who bark or fuss in the crate. Some are eager to go play Rally. Others are showing some anxiety.

Crate stress

Unlike most of 2-Minute-Dog-Training games, dealing with crate stress will take a bigger block of time. Plan to practice for at least 10 or 15 minutes. And consider yourself lucky. Hope once had to play this game, driving in her car, for several hours when bringing Torque home as a puppy!

To play Quiet in the Crate you’ll need:

A crate large enough for your dog to lie down in.
Treats.
A sheet or blanket large enough to cover the entire crate.
Patience
Good timing

Start playing

To start playing, crate your dog. It’s fine if you have to lure him/her in by throwing some incredibly tasty treats in the crate. We do want our dogs to relax and enjoy being in the crate.

(Note: if your dog hates the crate, work on getting them to accept it before you ask them to be quiet in it. You can accomplish this by feeding in the crate, and by incorporating the crate into daily life. Have it in the same room where you are, open and available. If you’re playing fetch or other games with your dog, toss a prized toy in the crate and let your dog get it and bring it back out. Don’t use a fetch game to lock your dog in the crate. Never try to fool your dog into going in the crate. That will poison it forever. Make it a part of everyday life, not a big deal.)

Quiet = Uncovered

When your dog is in the crate, if he/she starts fussing, crying, whining, or barking, cover the crate with the sheet or blanket. If/when they stop making noise, lift the front of the fabric and give a treat through the crate bars. You can say “Good Quiet!” The crate stays uncovered as long as the dog is quiet.

If your dog starts making noise again, don’t say anything, just recover the crate. As soon as the dog is quiet, lift the cover, reward, and say “Good Quiet!”

If, by chance, your dog doesn’t fuss, just deliver treats at random intervals. Say “Good Quiet!” (or whatever phrase you want to use) with every reward. This will teach the dog the word “Quiet!” so you can ask for it when they understand.

To advance the game if your dog remains quiet while you’re close, leave the room. If this causes the dog to start fussing, return and cover the crate. Don’t say anything. We want the dog to process the difference between cover and uncover.

Be patient

It may take a few sessions of the game for your dog to catch on to what you’re asking. Baby Torque took about four hours of Hope waving that cover back and forth over the crate in the passenger seat between Ontario and Chicago. It wasn’t the best drive of her life, but it worked. Torque is not only an excellent passenger, he’s content and happy whenever he’s in his crate.

Good dog training is bad for ratings

There’s absolutely nothing exciting about good dog training. You’re probably never going to see a TV show that features a positive reinforcement trainer. There’s no yelling, no drama, no lunging, growling, or biting. There’s patience, treats, and wonderful moments. Good dog training is bad for ratings – absolutely no suspense.

Good dog training = bad television

Those wonderful moments happen all the time when you’re a positive reinforcement trainer.

One of our students has been having a hard time battling her habit of yanking on her dog’s collar. Especially when her 18-month old, active Miniature Poodle does something she considers naughty. Then, after class, when she was talking to us, her dog started jumping on Hope. And she dropped his leash! It was a wonderful breakthrough for her. She knows herself well enough to know, with leash in hand, she’d pull on her dog. Instead, she dropped it and trusted the training. And it worked! With no response to his jumping, the dog stopped, sat, and was quickly praised and rewarded. It was a two-fer! Both the student and the dog got it right.

But that light-bulb moment, huge though it may have been for the people and dog involved, made for dull watching. Only the people involved knew how huge it was, because it looked like a woman choosing not to control her jumping dog. Just two women standing there, and a jumping dog. No yelling, no motion, nothing dramatic. That’s the way it should be.

Not easy, but worth it

Of course our students have an advantage. We’re there. And while we never administer a correction on a dog, we’re famous for “yelling” at our students. We notice when their past experience and habit has them popping a dog’s collar. We see when they fail to maintain connection with their dogs. And we yell when they miss an opportunity to praise and reward their dogs.

Remember that dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. (“Careful where you put it!“) Behavior that gets attention is more likely to be repeated. So the one phrase our students hear over and over again is: “Doing it right has to look different than getting it wrong.” Give your dog the information he/she needs. Yes, that was good! That’s what I want! Good dog! Here’s a cookie!

Only happy sounds

Oftentimes there’s a lot of chatter with our own dog training games. But it’s never, ever yelling at the dog. While commands are given only once (Sit, Stand, Down, Front), it’s not the only thing the dogs hear. But all of the conversation is upbeat and encouraging; Go get it! Such a smart puppy! Whatcha Gonna Do? Who’s a good boy? Are you the cleverest fellow?

The worst dogs should hear is either a non-reward marker like “Oops!” or a simple phrase like “that’s not it, try again.” As long as your 2-Minute-Dog Training Games are focused and fun, you don’t have to worry about your dog disengaging. They will persist, because they’re having fun, too.

Value of video

While good dog training may not make for suspenseful TV, taking video of your own sessions is great. First off, when you’re in the middle of it, you can’t see how incredibly cute your dog is during the session. So it’s great to have it for posterity.

Secondly, you can see how you did as a trainer. Did you miss a chance to praise your dog? Did you give attention to something you shouldn’t have? Was your energy happy and fun? And did you make doing the right thing look different for your dog every single time? Celebrate every little breakthrough, even if it would make bad TV.

It’s never okay to hurt your dog

Don't let your small dog hide. — It’s never okay to hurt your dog.

Why is it hard to understand that it’s never okay to hurt your dog? That training should never be painful? There’s always a better way.

Last week was a particularly challenging one. One of Hope’s competition Obedience students, who’s been with her class for years, had an electronic collar on her dog.

The collar was black, the dog is black, and it was about half-way through the class before Hope noticed and called the student on it.

The rationale had steam coming from Hope’s ears.

The student, we’ll call her Sharon, likes to take her dog, Phydeaux, to the dog park to run off leash. While there, Phydeaux took it upon himself to jump on an unknown woman, and failed to return to Sharon when called.

Sharon decided this was an “unsafe” situation for Phydeaux. Rather than choosing not to return to the dog park until her dog had a reliable “Come!,” Sharon contacted a different trainer, who insists on a shock collar. Phydeaux must “get used” to wearing it for two weeks, then it gets turned on. Sharon insisted it was okay for Phydeaux to wear the collar in Hope’s class because it wasn’t “on.”

Since it was flashing, it apparently was on – just with no “zapper” remote in the vicinity. Not okay, Sharon.

Just flabbergasted

All of our students know that e-collars, prongs, and choke collars are not allowed in our classes. We will allow martingales, sometimes. Sharon knew it wasn’t allowed, but thought it was “okay” because the zapper wasn’t there.

No, Sharon. Not just in class. It’s never okay to zap your dog.

We understand the concept behind the e-collars. Punishing dogs for doing something you don’t want them to dates back long before these torture devices. That doesn’t make it a good idea.

Think of it this way

On the spur of the moment, we weren’t able to come up with an analogy that would clarify our stance to Sharon. Since she thought it was an okay idea, she’ll probably never understand. But here it is, for you:

Let’s say you adore chocolate. And there’s a wonderful chocolate shop that we take you to enjoy. You can have anything you want, we’ll get it for you. As much as you want.

At some point during the visit to the chocolate shop, you will violate a rule. The rule wasn’t explained to you beforehand. You have no idea what it is. The consequence of violating that unknown rule is that you’ll be zapped with a taser.

You don’t know when it’s coming. You don’t know what triggers its use. You have no idea what you’ve done to deserve it. And yet, you’re flailing on the floor.

So tell us – how do you feel about visits to the chocolate shop now? And about going somewhere with us?

Other options

Sharon could have spent the time and energy teaching Phydeaux a perfect recall. It doesn’t take long with the 2-Minute Trainer course “Come!” She could have used a long line to keep a measure of control. She could have stopped going to the dog park. There are lots of things she could have done.

She chose to hurt her dog, rather than teach him. We used to have some fondness for Sharon. She and her dogs have had some success in our classes, and in the Obedience and Rally trials we’ve prepared her for. If she can so easily cast aside all the tenets of training we’ve shared, that relationship’s changed forever.