reward-based training Archives - Page 7 of 7

Doggie see, doggie do – dogs learn from other dogs

Dogs are sponges. They watch, and absorb. And dogs learn from other dogs, as well as from people.

One of the great things about having multiple dogs is that they do learn from each other. It’s easier to housebreak a puppy when you have an older, housebroken dog. The puppy copies what the older dog does. Same thing with the household routine. If the already-trained dog waits to go out the door until it’s allowed, the puppy will figure out the rules, too.

Idol worship

Dogs learn from dogs - baby Booker is with his idol Tango in a small dog bed. — Baby Booker emulates his idol Tango – dogs learn from dogs.

It helps if the older dog is puppy-friendly and likes having the little one around. They will be more tolerant of puppy shenanigans, and actively teach the puppy what’s okay and what’s not. When the play gets too rough, you may see the older dog holding the puppy down. It’s entirely appropriate and teaches the pup when enough is enough.

Puppies tend to be single-mindedly selfish little creatures. They want what they want when they want it. If they see another dog waiting patiently for food or other desirable thing, they’ll learn to emulate that behavior. However, for everyone’s safety, we do recommend separating, even crating the puppy for feeding time. This has the dual benefit of teaching the puppy that crates are good, and making sure the older dog won’t feel they have to guard a valuable resource like food. The older dog will probably also appreciate a chance to relax and enjoy his meal without worry.

Flip side of the coin

Dogs learn all kinds of wonderful things by watching other dogs. Ours seem to absorb the training games we play just by watching. When it’s their turn, they jump right in, seeming to know stuff we don’t remember teaching.

The downside is that puppies also absorb all the things you’d rather they wouldn’t, too. And they tend to learn the “bad” stuff even more quickly than the good stuff.

If you have one dog that barks at any movement on your street, the puppy will probably develop the same habit, too. To avoid perpetuating the cycle, you have to take an active role. Because it’s almost impossible to train two dogs at the same time, you must set your priority.

Barking up a storm

In the barking example – if the dog has been doing it for any length of time, it’s going to take a concerted, consistent effort to change the habit. Rather than trying to “fix” the older dog’s behavior, it’s simpler to avoid the situation with the puppy. By nature, some dogs are “better” watchdogs than others, but all can become barkers.

When the older dog barks, the puppy will probably run to see what’s going on. To show they’re being a good student, they may even join the barking, without even knowing why.

Instead of yelling at everyone to “be quiet!” – call the puppy and run the other way. Find a toy and start playing. Turn the other dog’s bark into a reason to come to you! If you’re a lot of fun and your game plan is exciting, you may even get the older dog to join the fun, rather than persist in barking. (We discussed another way of “breaking the feedback loop” a little while ago.

Timing is never good

There’s never really a “good” time to get another dog. Life has a way of interrupting plans. If you’re considering adding another dog to your family, it’s best to be ready when the opportunity presents.

To get ready – take an honest look at the dog you already have. Are there any behaviors or habits that you’d hate for a puppy to develop? If so, now is the time to teach your present dog to be better. Develop a plan, setting the goal you want to achieve. Then back-chain the steps you need to take to get there. Turn each step into a training game.

With a plan in place and a goal in mind, even if the puppy doesn’t show up at your doorstep, the dog you have will benefit from training games. You’ll both be happier.

Dogs don’t grow out of bad habits

If your puppy or dog has developed a bad habit, we have some bad news for you. He’s not going to grow out of bad habits or give them up.

Dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. If they’re getting their jollies from doing something naughty they’re going to keep doing it. Unless you provide a more rewarding option. It’s as simple as that.

Stealing socks

This labrador puppy will not grow out of bad habits. — Yes, he’s cute, but dogs don’t grow out of bad habits.

One of the puppies in our Beginner Obedience class steals socks. It started when he was little and grabbing socks off the floor. Now he’s a 60-lb., eight-month-old, powerful Lab and he’s grabbing socks from the drawer when his mom opens it.

Unless something changes, we expect his next move will be learning to open the drawer by himself.

Mom, a first-time dog owner, asked in class “But isn’t he going to grow out of it?”

No. No, he’s not. He thinks that the whole process, sneaking up beside Mom when she opens the drawer, grabbing the sock, taking off with his prize, and being chased all over, is a fantastic game. Why would he change it?

Better alternative

Because this is an established routine, Mom is going to have to work a bit harder to get it to stop. The first step is to find another game that’s even more fun. It can be as simple as finding an actual toy to play tug with while you get your socks.

Or you can take the opportunity to play “Whatcha Gonna Do?” and teach the dog to leave the sock drawer (food on the counter, garbage can, etc.) alone.

Be prepared

Have treats handy – either in a bowl out of reach, a pouch or fanny pack, (hardware store nail aprons are good dog-training-treat holders). When you’re near the sock drawer, just stand there and wait for the dog to do something good. If he sits, click and treat.

Reach for the drawer. Wait for a good decision. Click and treat.

Open the drawer slightly. Be ready to either close the drawer or click and treat good choices.

Step by step, wait for your dog to make good decisions. It will teach him how to behave in almost any circumstance. Your dog will learn that it’s more rewarding to ask for permission than forgiveness.

It may take longer than imposing your will, but it will work better for everyone in the long run. Teaching your dog to make good decisions translates to every aspect of life. From stealing socks to counter-surfing, as we wrote about a few months back.

Habit persists

Habit is one of the more powerful forces in the universe. And changing a bad habit requires determination. Dogs don’t grow out of bad habits, but they can change.

Until the new, good behavior takes the place of the naughty one, it’s up to us to manage the environment so the dog can’t practice bad behavior. A mistake or two isn’t the end of the world, but it will take progress back a notch or two.

Be patient, go step-by-step, and schedule a few extra minutes to get dressed in the morning. It’s worth it.

What to do when your dog plays keep away

Puppies are notorious for playing keep away. They grab stuff off the ground and run off with it. Lots of dogs retain the habit. When your dog plays keep away it’s a bad thing – for everyone.

The puppy could have something toxic, or that he could choke on. And everyone’s first instinct is to grab whatever it is. Which can get you bitten, or cause the puppy to shy away from you when you chase him to retrieve the thing.

What’s the alternative?

The puppy we’ve been fostering since the beginning of July is notorious for hoarding sticks and rocks. It’s the first thing he does when he gets out the door. He checks out his stash and picks something to carry around and chew on.

All of his beloved “outside toys” are carefully inspected. He’s only allowed to keep rocks too large to swallow, and sticks that are thick and flexible. And none of them are allowed inside.

He knows this. Sometimes he’s reluctant to drop it, even when he wants to come back in the house. He’ll dash away from the door, an initial bout of keep away.

Avoiding the “keep away” game

Charging after a puppy who’s run off with contraband is never a good idea. The best way to catch a pup is to have them chase you. So the first game to try is “Catch Me If You Can” – run away calling the dog’s name.

Most can’t resist the chase, especially if you make it exciting. Yell, clap, run heavy so your shoes slap down. If you’re interesting enough, the puppy will even drop the contraband. They forget about the “thing” in the excitement of a new game. (Our 2-Minute Trainer Book 2: Come! includes detailed instructions for the “Catch Me If You Can” game.)

Distract them with play

Any game your dog loves to play should work as a good distraction. “Catch Me” is the most exciting, but it’s not the only arrow in the quiver. Our foster puppy’s favorite game is “Touch.”

A hand touch is a great behavior that can help when your dog plays keep away. — Simon is demonstrating the “Touch” game – great for when your dog plays keep away

We play “Touch” a lot with our dogs because it’s the easiest to use in any situation. All you need is you and some treats. It can be quiet and calm, or it can be active and exciting. That’s determined by you – how vigorously are you moving? How is your voice pitched? You don’t have to be loud – even a whisper can be exciting.

Practical application

When we want Mister foster puppy to drop the “thing” and come to us, we show him the palm of our hand and say “Touch!” He knows that every single touch earns him a treat. When he gets going he looks like a chicken bobbing for seed, shoving that muzzle into our hand.

It works. He forgets about that day’s rock, or stick, and comes running over to play his favorite game. Puppy loves playing, so he gets what he wants – a chance to play and treats. And we get what we want – the puppy comes to us.

Building the basis

You can start playing “Touch” today. Two minutes a day and it will become a valued part of your dog’s repertoire pretty quickly. How much your dog loves the game depends on you. Decide you love it. What could possibly be cuter than your dog sticking his face in your hand? Reward promptly, for every touch, with incredibly yummy treats. Make sure that your dog is really planting that muzzle in your palm. No waving the nose at your fingers! And the reward should be as close to your palm, and your dog’s muzzle, as possible. Your reward will be having a “go-to” game you can play anywhere.

We pull out the “Touch” game whenever our dogs are nervous. If we’re at the veterinarian’s office and they’re not sure, it’s a perfect time. Or anywhere they’ve never been before and they’re unsure.

It’s also a great game to distract your dog when they see something on a walk that’s completely caught their attention. It could be a squirrel, skunk, or even another dog that’s staring at them. When you need your dog to focus on you, it’s time to pull out your palm and get them facing a different direction.

Don’t grab and go

If you have a dog or puppy who’s a “snatch and run” criminal, whether it’s shoes in the house, or icky stuff outside, it is important to act quickly. Dogs seem to chew and swallow incredibly quickly when it’s something they know they shouldn’t have.

And it’s fighting your every instinct to not dash over, grab the dog, and do a finger sweep of their mouth. If you succumb to that temptation, your dog will learn to run away, hide the contraband, and avoid you at all costs.

Having a go-to game, like “Touch” will take the stress out of the situation. It’s a win/win. Your dog gets to play a game they love. And you get your dog to drop the thing.

Making a game of dog manners

Dog manners are like classic books. Everyone wants to have read them, but nobody wants to actually read them. Every dog needs to know household manners, but teaching them can be tedious. How many times can you say “Leave it!” or “Off!”

We get it. Teaching your dog to “gimme paw,” “roll over,” or “spin” is fun. It’s not only light-hearted, it’s usually pretty quick. Whereas teaching your dog not to jump on visitors takes time and effort. You’re also starting at a disadvantage – “taking away” something is harder than “adding on.”

Change your mindset

But it’s all a matter of perception. You know “manners” aren’t as much fun as “tricks.” But that’s an entirely human construct. We naturally are more resistant to things we “have” to do, as opposed to the things we “want” to do. Nobody likes to do their chores!

Your dog doesn’t know the difference. Your dog only knows that you’re paying attention to her. And she likes it! That, however, can change. If your tone and body language change when you approach the “Not Fun” training sessions, your dog will pick up on it and reflect your mood. If you don’t like it, your dog won’t either.

Don’t lie to your dog

You don’t have to pretend you love the Get it! / Leave it! dog training game. You should, however, approach it with the same enthusiasm you show toward the fun stuff. It’s not the game that matters. It’s carving out the time to focus on your partnership with your dog. Every single 2-Minute session adds to the relationship.

And when your dog shows that he understands “Leave it!” as thoroughly as “High Five!,” celebrate with the same reaction. Have a little party with treats, toys, and tugging! The things that are hard, like dog manners, should be celebrated even harder when they’re conquered. It’s easy to overlook good behavior because it’s what we expect. But your dog will be “good” more if it looks, sounds, and feels better than being “naughty.”

Everybody does it

As competitors in dogs performance sports, there are all kinds of precise positions/behaviors that we practice with our dogs. The vast majority of obedience performance scores are all about “Heeling,” so we do it a lot.

How do you make a game of walking around with your dog? Especially when he’s supposed to be watching you the whole time, exactly aligned with you?

Easily! You start by meeting your dog’s eyes and smiling. This is the best dog in the whole wide world and he’s yours! Then you ask your dog “Do you wanna play with me?” And the tail-wag or wiggling butt lets you know that your dog is ready for any game. Even boring old “heeling.”

Not a marathon

The next step is setting up in absolutely perfect heel position, and telling your dog how wonderful that is. You set off, (leading with your left foot!) telling your dog “Heel!” as you’re about to take your first step. He responds matching you perfectly, tail wagging happily. And after three perfect steps, you break off and celebrate. “Yay, dog!” Here’s a treat! Or a tummy rub. Or a quick fetch your toy!

Three perfect, happy steps are a great foundation. We don’t have to heel a mile. Not even a block. We’d rather do a few steps perfectly than lose the enthusiasm for the game. It also keeps it fresh for us. Perfect heeling is, in all honesty, a pleasure to watch. And a pain in the butt to achieve. It’s also one of the dog classics.

The hardest part of dog training

What do you think is the hardest part of dog training?

There are lots of possibilities; timing, coordination, remembering, getting focus, carving out the time to play training games. But all of those are just a matter of practicing. They all get easier with experience. The more training games you play with your dog, the better you get at it.

The “Winner” is

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing. It’s standing like a statue, not saying anything, not doing anything, while your dog acts a fool. She’s barking, jumping, biting at the leash.

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing when your dog is misbehaving.

If you’re in public, it’s embarrassing and you want to make her stop. If you’re at home, it’s still annoying and you want her to knock it off.

The best thing you can do is stand there, hands folded, silent. When her little temper tantrum wears off, she’ll probably remember that sitting quietly gets her the attention, and reward, that she wants. It can be annoying, frustrating, even infuriating, to wait for that moment. But it’s worth it.

Let the dog decide

If we “make” our dog behave, by holding their collar or tightening the leash, we’re giving them exactly what they want – our complete attention. We’re reacting to them, instead of waiting for them to choose better and get rewarded for good behavior. Waiting for your dog to “see the light” can be a painful process. But it’s worth it. We teach our dogs how to get what they want, instead of letting the dog manipulate us.

It’s really, really hard not to snatch your hand away when your dog starts nibbling at it to get the treats. (The “Whatcha gonna do?” game in Book 4: Impulse Control.) But the motion of lifting your hand looks, to your dog, like you’re engaging in the game he chose. Yelling at your dog for barking is “playing” the barking game, seen from the dog’s perspective.

Think, don’t react

Doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But sometimes it’s the only way to show our dogs how to choose better. Pay close attention to your own reactions to your dog’s silly/obnoxious behaviors. Are you inadvertently encouraging it? Do you engage with your dog when he’s acting the fool?

Try ignoring it, instead. If he’s really being obnoxious, walk away. If he persists, go into the bathroom and lock him out. When he quiets down and his brain engages again, reward it! Play a rowdy game of tug, or fetch! Play on your terms, not when your dog dictates.

Right and wrong are different

Show your dog what right and wrong look like. Right should be full of energy, treats, toys, play, and fun. Wrong should be dull. Not nearly as much fun as being good.

As soon as your dog chooses wisely, reward, reward, reward! Making good choices is the foundation of game-based dog training. Love it when you see it!

Dog decision making – help your dog choose wisely

Dogs, like people, are always making decisions. Which toy should I play with? Is this the best chewy toy in the house? Which bush should I pee on? She called me – should I “come?” The crux of positive reinforcement training is guiding dog decision making. Building the understanding that what you want, and what your dog wants, are the same thing.

We’ve talked before about dogs not caring about being “good.” They don’t even know what it is. Dogs will always do the “thing” that’s most valuable to them. It’s our job to build value in good decisions.

For example:

Fran’s 2-year-old Boston Terrier Simon doesn’t always love Hope’s 6-year-old French Bulldog Torque. For unknown reasons, he just rubs him the wrong way sometimes.

We watch the interactions between the two very carefully. During supervised play times, Simon wears a leash that Fran hangs onto. It’s not to drag him back, it’s to prevent contact. Torque will try and get away when Simon loses his temper. The leash is to make sure Simon doesn’t follow.

When Simon’s body language tells us that he might be taking umbrage, Fran calls him to her. She’s been doing this consistently. Last night we were delighted to see him make a wonderful decision. Simon was losing his cool, his hackles started to raise, he was staring at Torque. We saw it and Fran started calling Simon in a happy voice – one that he knows always results in rewards.

He thought about it. You could see him pause. And then he ran over to Fran, away from Torque, and was completely and thoroughly praised and rewarded.

Make it worthwhile

Simon is always rewarded for making good decisions.

Would Simon have made the same, good decision, if it didn’t “pay?” He could very well have gotten supreme satisfaction from going after the other dog. He didn’t because he knew that Fran would praise him, play with him, and give him treats for going to her. It was more rewarding to Simon to be doted on. Good dog decision making, Simon!

That’s why you never call your dog to you for something he/she doesn’t like. If your dog hates getting a bath, go and get him/her. Don’t try to fool your dog, either. Don’t call him/her into the bathroom, give a treat, and then shove him/her in the tub. Not fair.

Never too late for training good dog decision making

Positive reinforcement, and 2-Minute-Trainer training games, are all about guiding our dogs into making the best choices. Being a “good dog” may not be something dogs understand. Getting rewarded is speaking their language. Dogs will repeat behavior that’s rewarded. They’re smart enough to discard what doesn’t work for them.

Your attention, treats, and play are all rewards your dog will try to get. When you witness your dog making a good decision, be sure he/she is lavishly rewarded. You can’t “spoil” your dog with praise, treats, or playtime.

There’s no such thing as too much praise for good behavior. If you slack off, or let good dog decision making go unnoticed, you’ll lose it. Dogs are wonderful, adaptable creatures. They’re also in the “what have you done for me lately” camp. If something that used to get rewarded no longer does, they’ll stop doing it.

Lots of ways to reward your dog

Some people think that reward-based training will result in fat dogs. Or that dogs trained with rewards will “work” only when treats are visible. These concerns may make those people reluctant to embrace training that’s solely reward based – even though it’s proven more effective than any system that includes punishment.

Know your dog

Depending on the dog, some rewards are more valuable, and therefore more motivating than others. (Read more about the timing and placement of rewards.)

Some dogs love toys. Knowing that being “good” will result in a short tug session is the ultimate reward for these dogs.

Others couldn’t care less about toys, or tugging. For them, only food will serve as a reward.

Still other dogs, although we’ve never had one, are thrilled with praise and petting. Just that attention from their people is all they need for reinforcement.

Knowing your dog and what motivates him/her lets you create a unique “tool set” for rewarding your dog.

Hierarchy of rewards

The "Moople" rubber toy has lots of value for Simon.

If you have a toy-driven dog, you also know which toys are his/her favorites and which are playable if nothing else is available. If your training session is at home, with no distractions, the less-favored toy is fine. Using that will let you get back to training after just a few seconds of tugging.

If you’re out with your dog in a place with distractions, use a toy that’s more valuable. If it’s someplace your dog gets stressed, “up the ante” even more and bring out the favorite toy.

We’ve never seen a dog that didn’t have preferences with toys. Some dogs are fanatics for balls. For these guys, be sure to get balls on ropes so you can be part of the fun. The last thing you want is for your dog to grab the toy and dash off during a 2-Minute-Dog-Training session.

Other dogs like ropes, or plush toys. Some are into vinyl or latex toys. It shouldn’t be a problem to have a variety on hand. And keep the “reward” toys separated – use only for training sessions. If and when they become stale, you can switch them out for others. We always have a bin of toys hidden away because toys the dogs haven’t seen in a few months are equivalent to new. And new toys are always best.

Food works the same way

If your dog loves food rewards best, a “trail mix” of goodies works for every training session. Most dogs see dry food every meal, so it’s not as exciting. But it makes a great mix-in with Cheerios, bits of cheese, or even small pieces of hot dog. If your dog never knows what the next morsel will be, he/she will stay interested and motivated.

Again, if you’re playing where there are no distractions, chances are the kibble will be fine on its own. In a high-stress place, or with lots of distractions, the ratio should slant heavily toward your dog’s most-favorite bite.

You know your dog best and can adjust the “trail mix” accordingly. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque thinks celery is the most wonderful food on the planet. It may be weird, but it works for them.

Praise as reward

We’ve never had a dog that was satisfied with just praise as a reward for a “job well done.” They always look at us like “yeah, that was fine. Show me the money (toy, food)!”

But if you do, it’s a wonderful thing. Just by varying your pitch and volume, you can change the excitement and reward level for your dog. You always have your voice and hands with you, so there’s no excuse not to reward your dog.

Not “light” travelers

For the rest of us, there’s always some preparation when we go somewhere with our dogs. The more pockets we have, the happier we are. Aside from the mandatory leash and poop bag, we need the pouch (or sandwich bag) of treats, and a toy or two. And the most important thing we can bring – focus.

Too often we see it. People supposedly walking their dogs with their entire attention focused on the phone in their hands. The dog is at the end of the leash, paying no attention to the person. The disconnect is sad to see. Dogs adore their people and want nothing more than their attention. These dogs have learned to live without it and entertain themselves. Both person and dog would enjoy their walks so much more if they engaged with each other.

Dogs understand the bottom line

What’s the bottom line for your dog? What are the things that he or she values most? And how can you use those high-ticket items to shape the behavior you want?

The entire basis for successful, science-based, 2-Minute-Trainer dog training is a compact we have with our dogs: they get what they want when we get what we want. It’s the best deal anyone’s ever made. Our dogs understand what’s expected of them and know they’ll be rewarded, comfortable, and loved. And we have loyal, loving, well-behaved, and adorable companions.

Adding value for everyone

What things are dearest to your dog? Is it food? Food-motivated dogs are a pleasure to train. Gratification is almost instantaneous.

Do toys and play rate highest for your dog? So much fun to be had by all with training games.

Humans and dogs both have a rating system for rewards. For most people, chocolate is more rewarding than Brussels Sprouts. Think about your dog’s preferences. One of ours adores celery – it’s a very high-value treat. When we really want him to pay attention, we have celery in our treat pouch.

Likewise, some toys are more important than others to toy-loving dogs. If you’re playing a training game, think about whether your dog will give up the toy to go back to the game, or if it’s so precious to him/her that he’ll lose interest in the game and focus instead on the reward.

Transferring the value

Simon has value for the balance disc - he gets lots of treats when he's on it.

You can use the things that your dog prizes make other “things” valuable. For example: we have our dogs work on balance and fitness on an inflatable balance disc. (A couch cushion can work just as well. For more on this, go to the post.) Whenever our dogs get up on that disc, they are rewarded. Every single time. That balance disc is one of the most valuable things in the house to every one of our dogs because they know its value.

From the dog’s perspective, it’s not the “thing.” It’s what happens when he interacts with the thing.

Say you want to start the “put your toys away” game. Start with the “thing” that you want your dog to pick up. You can use any household item; a spatula, a paper towel tube, an empty plastic jar, whatever you want.

Put the thing down in front of the dog. When he looks at it, reward. And offer the reward close to the “thing.” In almost no time, the “thing” acquires value. Dog thinks: “When I look at it (touch it, pick it up, carry it) I get something great every time. I love that thing!”

Transfer the value

It works no matter what. You can add value to any object or place, just by consistently showing your dog it’s important. Dogs love us and want to please us, but they’re also sufficiently selfish to do what benefits them. Dogs will repeat behaviors that have value. That’s every dog’s bottom line.

Don’t Kill the Clicker!

The Clicker is a wonderful training tool

Your clicker is a wonderful training tool. Don’t kill the clicker by overusing it.

You’ll be amazed how quickly your dog will learn to respond to the clicker. He may even smile and/or wag when he hears it.

So it’s tempting, when your dog is off exploring and you need him to come quickly, to reach for the clicker.

Put it down …

Think twice! Then put the clicker down.

If you use the clicker to call your dog it becomes your “come” or “recall” command and stops being useful for anything else.

It becomes “come get a cookie” rather than “good job! You figured it out!”

The Click is NOT a Command

The clicker will help you build a perfect “come” command. But hearing that sound is a reward for a job well done, rather than the command itself.

If the clicker turns into your recall command – how do you let your dog know, from across the room, that he’s doing a good job staying in his “place?” Clicking tells your dog she’s a good girl no matter how far away she is, or what she’s doing.

Trying to expand the meaning just won’t work.

Dogs’ brains are binary – on or off, left or right, black or white. They don’t have shades of gray. An object has a single purpose – like the clicker. Either it says “good dog!” or it’s “come here!” Trying to make it perform two functions will confuse your dog and muddy your training.