Tag: crate training

Training for Quiet in the Crate

Is your dog quiet in the crate? Crate training is probably the best thing that’s happened to dogs in the last couple of decades. It allows dogs to be “good” all the time when learning potty training. Crate training is also valuable in other situations, as we discussed in a very early article.

Many people, certainly at first, were reluctant to use crates or cages. There is still some resistance, but overall most people have come to realize that dogs are most secure, comfortable, and relaxed when in an enclosed, familiar spot.

Why crate training works

Simon, Boston Terrier, is perfectly comfortable and quiet in his crate.
Simon is comfortable and quiet in his crate.

The original explanation for crate training theorized that dogs are descended from wolf or fox ancestors, all of which are den animals. They’re most comfortable and secure in cozy dens. It makes sense, even if it’s a stretch of the truth. It even explains why many dogs prefer round, bolster beds, and sleep all curled up. 

By retaining the crate, you’re allowing your dog to be “off duty” when you’re not around. And, in unfamiliar situations, it’s a comfort zone for them. 

But what if your dog fusses while crated? It happens in our Rally Class. Dogs participate one at a time, and aside from when the dogs are taking their turn, are supposed to be crated. There are some dogs who bark or fuss in the crate. Some are eager to go play Rally. Others are showing some anxiety.

Crate stress

Unlike most of 2-Minute-Dog-Training games, dealing with crate stress will take a bigger block of time. Plan to practice for at least 10 or 15 minutes. And consider yourself lucky. Hope once had to play this game, driving in her car, for several hours when bringing Torque home as a puppy!

To play Quiet in the Crate you’ll need:

  • A crate large enough for your dog to lie down in.
  • Treats.
  • A sheet or blanket large enough to cover the entire crate.
  • Patience
  • Good timing

Start playing

To start playing, crate your dog. It’s fine if you have to lure him/her in by throwing some incredibly tasty treats in the crate. We do want our dogs to relax and enjoy being in the crate. 

(Note: if your dog hates the crate, work on getting them to accept it before you ask them to be quiet in it. You can accomplish this by feeding in the crate, and by incorporating the crate into daily life. Have it in the same room where you are, open and available. If you’re playing fetch or other games with your dog, toss a prized toy in the crate and let your dog get it and bring it back out. Don’t use a fetch game to lock your dog in the crate. Never try to fool your dog into going in the crate. That will poison it forever. Make it a part of everyday life, not a big deal.)

Quiet = Uncovered

When your dog is in the crate, if he/she starts fussing, crying, whining, or barking, cover the crate with the sheet or blanket. If/when they stop making noise, lift the front of the fabric and give a treat through the crate bars. You can say “Good Quiet!” The crate stays uncovered as long as the dog is quiet.

If your dog starts making noise again, don’t say anything, just recover the crate. As soon as the dog is quiet, lift the cover, reward, and say “Good Quiet!”

If, by chance, your dog doesn’t fuss, just deliver treats at random intervals. Say “Good Quiet!” (or whatever phrase you want to use) with every reward. This will teach the dog the word “Quiet!” so you can ask for it when they understand. 

To advance the game if your dog remains quiet while you’re close, leave the room. If this causes the dog to start fussing, return and cover the crate. Don’t say anything. We want the dog to process the difference between cover and uncover. 

Be patient

It may take a few sessions of the game for your dog to catch on to what you’re asking. Baby Torque took about four hours of Hope waving that cover back and forth over the crate in the passenger seat between Ontario and Chicago. It wasn’t the best drive of her life, but it worked. Torque is not only an excellent passenger, he’s content and happy whenever he’s in his crate.

Teach your dog a release word

Every “stop” in dog training needs to have a paired “go.” Otherwise, how does your dog know to stop doing what you’ve asked? Teaching your dog a release word makes it easy. It’s your dog’s “green light” to stand down from a behavior.

Do what I say

The current trend in dog training is not to actually teach a “stay.” The theory is that if you’ve asked your dog to “Sit!,” they should keep doing that until you tell them to do something else. It’s an interesting idea, but there’s no way it will work unless you also teach your dog a release word.

As long as you’re consistent, it doesn’t matter what word you use: Free, Okay, Go, Cabbage. Remember what it is, and teach your dog to recognize it, your release cue can be any word in any language. Like Humpty Dumpty in Lewis Carroll’s Through the Looking Glass: “When I use a word,’ Humpty Dumpty said in rather a scornful tone, ‘it means just what I choose it to mean — neither more nor less.”

Use it all the time

Roc is staying in his crate until he hears his release word.
We taught Roc his release word, so he’s staying in his crate until he hears it.

Start by letting your dog hear his/her release cue for transitions. When you release him/her from the crate, use your release word. If your dog doesn’t move when hearing it, close the crate door and step back. Come back to the crate, open the door and say the release word again. This time your dog should understand that it means “move your butt!”

When you open the door to let your dog out in the yard, use the release word. If you’re practicing a “stay” use it to let your dog know it’s time to move. When you finish a training game, use the release word to tell your dog it’s time to “stand down.” When you’re done practicing polite walking, give the release cue to let your dog know it’s time to sniff and be a dog. (Here’s an article about loose leash walking.)

Perfecting the release

To evaluate your dog’s understanding of his release word, play this stop/go stay game: Set your dog up in a sit, and say “Stay.” Remain with your dog. With a single treat in the hand closest to the dog, raise the treat high over the dog’s head and slowly lower it to him/her. If your dog remains in place, without any movement other than the head, put the treat in your dog’s mouth. If your dog moves, raise the treat up and start over.

After three or four successes, stop lowering the treat at about the halfway point and say your dog’s release word. He/she should jump up and get the treat. Celebrate! Good Dog! 

Start the game again, until your 2-Minute session expires. You can vary the position for your dog’s stay – sit, down, or stand are all fine. As a matter of fact, you should practice each of the positions for the stay. Your groomer and veterinarian are always appreciative of dogs who know how to stand still!

Don’t make them think

If you teach your dog a release word, it really helps him. It clarifies behaviors. It sets the boundaries and limits – things dogs really love. If you leave a fuzzy boundary for any behavior, your dog won’t know what you want him/her to do and performance will suffer. Sit really does mean sit. Until you’re released to go about your business. 

Many people worry about being “mean” to their dogs by setting strict limits. But dogs appreciate knowing the rules. Remember that dogs are binary creatures: yes or no, black or white, stop or go. They like knowing the right thing to do. Make it easy on your dog. Teach them a release word and let them know.

How to achieve stress-free car rides with dogs

Do you dread having to take your dog anywhere? Does your dog’s car anxiety stress you out, too? 

Over the past year, most of us have been spending more time at home. We’ve haven’t been going much of anywhere, and neither have our dogs.

Our dogs familiarity with travel and car rides has lessened, and even those dogs who were accustomed to going places and doing things may now get nervous.

Name of the game

Booker and Tango are accustomed to the car and going places.
Pre-pandemic, Booker and Tango frequently rode in the car with Fran to trials and on road trips.

Familiarity is the key. Dogs, like us, get nervous in unfamiliar situations. Car rides with dogs qualify, especially if the only place the dog goes is scary.

Think about it from the dog’s perspective. If the only time he/she gets in the car is to go someplace where scary and/or painful things happen, you’d hate the car, too. Veterinary care and grooming are both necessary for our dogs, but neither is fun for the dog. Hope and Fran knew when they got puppies that as grown-up dogs they would be spending a lot of time in the car – going to obedience, rally and agility trials as well as on road trips, so they translated their crate training from the house to the car.

To turn things around and achieve stress-free car rides, start slowly, from the beginning.

Make it fun

Start where your dog’s anxiety begins. If he/she is nervous getting near the car, walk him her around the car, chattering calmly to your dog and delivering treats. Or play with a favorite toy near the car. Open and close the doors, all the while playing or rewarding for calm behavior. 

Don’t force the dog to get closer, let them take it at their own pace. Coddling isn’t required – it’s not okay to be scared. Speak calmly and encourage exploration, but don’t force it and try not to get frustrated. You know there’s nothing to worry about. The task is to convince your dog that’s true.

Step by step

Like all 2-Minute training games, after a couple of minutes, you’re done for the session. You can come back to it later, but give your dog time to absorb the fact that he/she had fun near the big, scary, noisy thing.

When your dog is fine around the car, have him/her get in it. Again, give treats or play with a toy for a couple minutes. Reinforce for your dog that the car is a positive place.

When your dog can enjoy the treats or toy in the car, hook him/her up to whatever restraint you use in the car and have another play session. At this point, if you have another person who can help, one of you get in the driver’s seat while the other plays with, or gives treats to your dog.

Noisy scary

The next step is to have the dog in the car and turn on the engine. Make sure you’re outside, or the garage door is wide open to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Play or treat for a couple minutes. If you don’t have a helper, give your dog a treat-filled toy. Use a high-value food stuffed in the toy – peanut butter or spray cheese work well for most dogs. 

If your dog is able to focus on his/her chew or treat toy, you’re well on your way to stress-free car rides with your dog. Take a short ride around the block and back home. As you’re able to take your dog in the car for longer periods, try going to a park or somewhere dog-friendly and playing a fun training game as we discussed in the post, “Take it on the road …”

Building on success

Stay at whatever step as long as you need to. If your dog is too nervous to take treats or play, stay there until she gets more comfortable. A nervous glance, then back to the game is fine. Rejecting the treats/toy due to nerves means your dog has reached his/her limit and you may even need to go back a step.

When you are able to progress to actual trips, be sure you go fun places where nothing bad happens. Take your dog to a park and go for a walk. Or a pet shop and let him/her choose a new toy. Then straight home.

Accentuate the positive

You can replace anxiety with anticipation if you teach your dog, step by step, that there’s nothing to worry about. As your dog gets used to new things, they’re less scary. If you make car rides routine fun, you’ll have stress-free car rides with your dog.

Don’t let your dog hide

It’s natural for people to protect small, young things. We have an instinct to take care of those more vulnerable. Don’t give in to it! Don’t let your dog hide!

Downsized dog

Don't let your small dog hide.

Hope is working now with a friend/student who has always had Sporting dogs; Weimeraners and Viszlas. She’s a bit older now and chose to “downsize” by getting a Miniature Poodle. It’s a wonderful choice for her, since Poodles are also Sporting dogs, originally bred as water retrievers. They’re also incredibly smart dogs.

Smart dogs will learn very fast what works for them and what they can get away with. If it works once, they’ll repeat it. If it keeps working, they’ll always do it.

Works for him

Our friend Sue, in addition to working with Hope, is also taking a pet-store puppy class with her four-month old Poodle Darwin. It’s the only current option, during the pandemic, for making sure her puppy is socialized to work with her in the presence of other dogs, people, and lots of distractions. It’s a good idea.

Sue was telling Hope how their class was going and reported that Darwin did great. He stayed under her chair and watched all the other, bigger puppies. 

She was surprised when Hope let her know that was exactly the wrong thing to do.

Don’t let the puppy hide

It’s Sue’s first small dog and, like most adults, her first reaction is to take care of him and protect him from possible threats. But there was no threat – just other puppies.

Sue should have stood up, encouraged Darwin to move with her, and let him observe from a position next to her. We’re not saying he has to “dive in” to a puppy scrimmage, or charge into a new situation. But he does have to learn to trust that Sue won’t take him into danger and he can watch, assess, and still be safe without hiding.

A previous 2-Minute Tip addressed the very topic: “By rewarding fear, are you training your dog to be shy?”

Safe space

We advocate the use of crates for dogs for many reasons. One is that a crate should be the dog’s safe space. At dog shows and trials, you’d see almost every single dog competitor, when he/she isn’t showing, relaxing in a crate. It’s the “dressing room” where they can relax between appearances.

Hiding behind “mom” isn’t the same thing. The puppy isn’t relaxed and waiting. He/she is shy or tentative and using mom as protection. Allowed to continue, this can lead to lifelong timidity and even fear aggression. Some fearful dogs lunge out of their hidey-holes to attack anything that gets too close.

Sensible but not smart

It never occurred to Sue that letting Darwin hide underneath or behind her was a bad idea. She truly thought he was quite brilliant for seeking, and finding, “protection.” She was pleased when he came out to participate in the class lessons, and when he retreated back to his hidey-hole when the exercise was over.

It’ll take some conscious thought (and Hope’s nagging) to turn around Sue’s natural “mom” reaction to protect. Darwin is little and adorable. But in order to let her dog live his biggest possible life, she must learn that little dogs are still dogs. Hiding isn’t allowed. Exploring the world is good. And she’ll always be there to make sure nothing bad happens to him.

Keep the crate!

For more than housebreaking

Crate training is a great way to housebreak your dog. 

Your dog’s crate is his safe place!

Simon, Boston Terrier, is perfectly comfortable in his crate.

But even after your dog knows not to mess in the house, there are reasons to keep that crate around. 

Being secure and unstressed in his/her crate will give you the freedom to board your dog if necessary. Simon, Boston Terrier, above, certainly looks comfortable in his crate!

And Booker always dashes into his crate, knowing that there will be a treat for him:

Boarding …

Even if you plan on taking your dog on every vacation – what if there is an emergency and you need to travel without him/her? Most boarding facilities use crates, especially at night – even if dogs are loose, playing, during the day.

Motels …

And if you are traveling with your dog, most hotels that allow pets require you to crate them if left in your room – even if you just dash out to pick up a meal.

Traveling

Booker (Boston Terrier) and Tango (Brussels Griffon are ready for a road trip, safe in their crates.

And speaking of traveling, having your dog in a crate is the safest method of having him in the car. If your dog is in a crate, he won’t be a distraction to you, the driver. And he won’t be a projectile if (heaven forbid) you’re involved in an accident. Booker (Boston Terrier, left) and Tango (Brussels Griffon), above, are ready for a road trip, secure in their crates.

At the vet

Knowing your dog is content in a cage will eliminate a cause of anxiety if your dog has to be hospitalized for any reason. We hope it never happens – but it could. Even after common procedures (like spay and neutering) a crate will ensure that your dog gets the rest that your veterinarian prescribes.

If Aunt Susie is afraid of dogs …

It’s even an option if you have guests who are afraid of dogs, or if you’re hosting a gathering and can’t keep an eye on your dog. Your pup “chilling” in his/her “house” lets you concentrate on immediate needs, without worry.

Turn the crate into furniture!

Keep the crate.It makes life easier. You can always get an attractive top and turn it into an end table!