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Teach, don’t tell, your dog

Your dog learns nothing if you’re always telling them what to do. You need to turn that around and teach, don’t tell, your dog.

As an example, the most common dog issue we address every single class is dogs jumping up on people. Every time a dog jumps on someone, the dog’s owner tells the dog “off” or “down” and pulls on the dog to make that happen. If the dog’s on leash, they pull on the leash. Wearing a collar? They pull on the collar. If the dog’s naked, they grab the dog’s legs or shoulders to make it happen.

Stop doing that. For two reasons:

It doesn’t work. Witness the fact that you have to keep doing it.
It teaches your dog nothing. Evidenced by the fact that your dog’s still doing it.

If you need more convincing that your current practice isn’t helping, try looking up Einstein’s definition of insanity. If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you always got.

Do this instead

It’s hard to teach any dog what “not” to do. Instead, give your dog an alternate greeting behavior that everyone will enjoy. How about you teach your dog to “Sit!” to say hello?

Set up the situation by enlisting the help of a friend who won’t mind, and won’t get hurt, if your dog does jump on them. Arrange a time and place that your friend will come to your house or meet you. Have your dog on leash and as your friend arrives, tell your dog to “Sit!” Your friend comes over to you and your sitting dog. Both of you give treats, praise, and pets to your dog as long as they’re sitting. If the dog gets up or jumps on the friend, both of you immediately disengage with the dog, stay quiet, fold your arms across your chest, and stare at the ceiling.

Your dog won’t know what’s happening at first. They may keep jumping, or nudging at either or both of you. Ignore it. Don’t say anything. Your dog may act a fool for a bit. That’s okay. Just wait. Sooner or later, your dog will figure out what was working and try it again. As soon as the dog is sitting, both of you praise, pet, and reward the dog. Make a big fuss for good behavior. Repeat as needed.

Hold up your end of the bargain

Depending on the dog and the people, and how long the behavior’s been entrenched, it may take a few sessions to get the message across. Letting your dog think it through is the way to teach them, rather than tell them, how to act.

All dog training is negotiating with your dog. They get what they want (attention) when you get what you want (polite behavior). Dogs aren’t picky about the kind of attention they get. Dogs don’t distinguish between positive attention (praise, rewards, pets) and negative attention (shouting, corrections, punishment). As long as you’re paying attention to them, they’re happy. Pulling on them, yelling at them, kneeing them in the chest is all attention. That stops the behavior for the moment. But it’s a very temporary fix.

Take it out for a ride

It won’t really take long for your dog to get in the habit of “Sit To Greet!” for you and your friend. When your dog is successful most of the time, change the friend you practice with. Or change the place you’re practicing. Go to the friend’s house, or a different friend’s house. Let your dog know that the same behavior is good wherever you are, whoever you’re meeting.

When you think your dog’s understanding is pretty solid, go someplace you can recruit a couple dog-friendly strangers to reward your dog for polite behavior. Go to a pet shop, veterinarian’s office, grooming shop, or any dog-friendly place. When you ask people to help, explain what you’re up to and what you expect your dog to do. With our own dogs we’ve even set ourselves up outside a nearby commuter train station. In that situation, look for people not hurrying, who smile at your cute dog. Those are the ones most likely to help.

Just ask one or two people, then call it a day. You don’t want to overload your dog. This kind of exercise, especially with strangers, can be stressful, stimulating, and exhausting for your dog. Having to think and control their impulses is hard work. You can judge how your dog is doing with a small sample. It takes a while for the taught behavior to become your dog’s first response. Give them time to get it right.

It will happen

Most of the dogs in our “Manners” classes jump on people at the start. And we offer ourselves as the “friendly stranger” every week. The first week, all the dogs jump on us and it takes a while. The second week, there’s usually an initial jump followed fairly quickly by a “Sit!” The third week, most dogs sit as soon as we head in their direction.

What actually takes the most practice is getting the people to be quiet and stop physically manipulating their dogs. Common courtesy demands that we don’t let our dogs jump on other people. But in this case, we have to put politeness aside and let them be rude. When rudeness doesn’t work, the dogs engage their brains and try something else. So, we’ve seen that it doesn’t work if we just tell our dogs what to do. Teach, don’t tell, your dog.

Dog Training “D’s” aren’t grades

D is for dog. It’s also for the three things that can torpedo any behavior, trick, or exercise. The three dog training “d’s” are Distance, Duration, and Distraction.

You need all three if you want to be successful in any dog sport or performance event. They matter for household obedience, too. But you can’t “work” on all of them at once. Pick one at a time. There are games you can play for each one, but only one per 2-Minute session.

Distance is hard

If you’re teaching your dog “Stay!” the three “d’s” are crucial components of the behavior. Whether you’re letting the plumber in the house, carrying a pasta pot, or hosting Great Aunt Gertrude for afternoon tea, there are times you’d appreciate it if your dog would just not move. A reliable “Stay!” is worth the effort it takes to achieve.

Don’t ever consider a “Stay!” anything but hard work. The last thing most dogs want is to sit back and observe. They want to be part of the action, in the thick of it. To teach your dog to “Stay!” choose a spot that’s very quiet, away from any commotion. If there’s no such thing, pick a place where the dog can see what’s going on without moving.

You can work on the distance “D” by having your dog sit in the middle of a room so that you can move all the way around them. Tell them to stay and start moving. Picture your dog as the hub of a wheel, and you move back and forth between the hub and the rim – be the spokes. Vary the distance you move every time – sometimes take a single step, middle distance, as far as you can get. Then go directly back to your dog and reward them for staying every time you finish a “spoke.” Move at an even pace, but keep moving all the time.

If your dog gets up, or lies down, don’t fix it. Use your non-reward marker and move your dog to a different position and start over. Out and back to your dog. Make it speedy at first. You can slow down your motion as your dog becomes more familiar with the exercise and starts to understand what’s expected. The faster you move, the more times you get back to your dog, the more rewards your dog gets for staying in place.

Duration is harder

When you work on the duration aspect of the stay, don’t leave your dog. Stand there right next to, or in front of, your dog. The first time you practice “duration” keep the reward rate high and steady. Try not to test the limits of your dog’s patience at first. Watch your dog for signs of movement, as mentioned in teaching the “Stay!,” the only things the dog’s allowed to move are his/her head or tail. Any paw movement isn’t a “Stay!” If you see it, start over again in a different spot. You don’t have to move far, but you should reset and try again.

You may find that your dog thinks they’re finished as soon as they get a treat. This is “one and done” syndrome and it’s fairly common. The fix is to have a second reward ready to pop into your dog’s mouth as soon as they swallow the first one.

Because of the many, many treats dogs can consume for this exercise, it’s a good one for hand-feeding a meal, or a portion of a meal. Another “kitchen game” to play with your dog.

As your dog starts to understand, increase the interval between rewards, and practice the “Stay!” in all positions – Sit, Stand, and Down.

Distraction is hardest of all

When we first started training in Obedience, one of our instructors took distraction to the maximum. With the dogs at one side of the room, and the handlers at the other, she would send a moving toy down the middle, between the dogs and handlers. The radio-controlled car, the toy monkey with cymbals, and the walking elephant toy were favorites. The most difficult for the dogs was the tennis ball she rolled down the center.

Those are all extreme distractions, not to be used until your dog is well-versed in the “Stay!” At first you can ask someone to bang a pot in the other room. Or call your phone. If there’s no one else around, you can turn up your phone’s volume and play any sound you think your dog would find distracting. A doorbell sound is the bane of many a dog owner – whether it’s in real life or on TV.

Put the Ds together

When your dog is doing okay in each of the three “D’s” – put them together. As long as your dog is showing you they know what’s expected of them, gradually increase the difficulty of the exercise. In the Canine Good Citizen test, the most difficult part for the dog is staying with a stranger while their person leaves the room. Technically, the dog doesn’t have to “Stay!” – they just have to be calm and not fuss too much. Teaching your dog the three “D’s” will help.

Think about those “D’s” whenever you’re training your dog. Does your dog “Sit!” from across the room? Can she maintain a “Stand!” for the length of a veterinary visit? Will your dog ignore the bicyclist zooming by on your walk? These are all situations that use those “D’s.”

Dog Bowling Game

The Dog Bowling Game came together from two separate bits of life. The first was another trainer who always called Hope’s French Bulldogs “Bowling Ball.” The other part was Torque’s love of knocking things over. It’s a match made in heaven.

Our game is contrary to the maze videos where pets wind their way through a forest of bottles they’re not supposed to knock down. The objective is to knock them all down, just like a real bowling game.

Where to start

We went all out (on the cheap) and got a toy bowling set. It’s not very expensive, and it’s fun for video. But the “real” thing isn’t necessary. You can certainly start with any empty plastic bottle. There’s a possibility that your dog may put holes in the bottle, so start with an empty.

Before you start playing, decide what your criteria will be for the eventual, complete game. Do you want your dog to knock over the bottles with their nose, paws, or you don’t care? How about the order? Do you want your dog to aim for a showy 7 / 10 split, or you don’t care?

We don’t care: Torque can knock down the pins in any order with any portion of his body. In most of our dog bowling game videos, you’ll see that some of the pins topple when he swipes by with his butt. That’s okay with us, we really don’t care.

After you’ve decided the shape of your Dog Bowling Game, have at it. Be ready with your clicker, your treats, and your empty bottle. Put the bottle down in front of your dog. Stare at the bottle. If your dog is puzzled at first, it’s understandable. Chances are throughout their life, you’ve told them to leave alone any bottles on the floor.

Patience is the key

Just be patient and wait. Any interaction your dog has with the bottle gets a “Click!” and reward. The steps for most dogs will look something like:

Look at the bottle.

Sniff the bottle.

Swipe at the bottle.

For each step your dog achieves, “Click and Reward” three to five times. Then wait for them to try something else. For each training session, you may have to go backwards before you move ahead. It takes a while for behaviors to solidify.

If your dog is like most, they won’t believe how easy and fun this game is. Most dogs love batting stuff around and chasing it. That’s going to be the challenging part. When your dog is running up to that bottle to bash it over, it’s time to add more bottles to the game.

When your dog chases the first rolling bottle around rather than staying with you to continue playing, just ignore it. Turn your back on the dog playing with the bottle and stare at the second bottle. Bend over and admire it up close. Your complete lack of interest in what your dog is doing, and obsession with the other bottle, should motivate your dog to come over and see what you’re so fascinated by. If/when this happens, celebrate! Your dog chose playing with you over getting their jollies by themselves. And remember, what gets rewarded gets repeated. Reward heavily, loudly, and often for decisions you like.

Keep adding on

Keep adding bottles until you’ve reached the number you want to keep in the game. Standard bowling is 10, but you can use as many or as few as you like. Your own patience and the space you have available will determine the answer. Remember that you’re the one who has to reset all those “bowling pins” when you play.

Unless, like Hope, you teach your dog to put away the pins when your dog is done with the game. The problem with that – Torque cronches the plastic pins and Hope has to spend just as much time unsquishing them.

Train your dog to stay

Does your dog “Stay!”? Can you walk around your dog? Most people assume they can and don’t expect any problems with it. Most people would be wrong. But you can train your dog to “Stay!” and take it to the next level with the “Walk Around.”

If you tell your dog to “Sit!, Stay!” and try to walk around her, if she’s like most dogs she’ll either get up when you move or swivel on her butt to follow your motion. Few dogs can stand the idea that they can’t see you and what you’re doing.

When we introduce this in our dog training classes, people kind of say “Huh, that’s interesting. I never noticed before.” But they don’t really see the need to teach their dogs to stay in place. Having tripped over numerous dogs over the years, especially in the kitchen, we know it’s a useful skill to have. Especially when you’re trying to carry a pasta pot from the stove to the sink to drain.

“Stay!” with benefits

The foundation for being able to walk around your dog is the “Stay!” And the key to teaching your dog to “Stay!” is setting the rules and sticking to them. Remember that dogs are binary creatures – off/on, yes/no, black/white. There are no shades of gray, no understanding of “maybe.”

To teach your dog to stay, you must decide what “Stay!” looks like. For us, that means only the dog’s head or tail moves. Paws do not move. Not an inch, not an iota. We stay laser-focused looking at their paws and haunches. As you practice “Stay!” you’ll start to recognize the signs that your dog is about to move. Drag out your non-reward marker and prevent it. Or, if you’re too late and your dog’s already in motion, just start over.

Don’t fix anything in dog training. Ever. The “fix” becomes part of the routine that surrounds whatever it is that you’re doing. If you want your dog to “Stay!” for 30 seconds and they get up at 22 seconds, start again, don’t try to continue where you were. It’s busted, start over. Otherwise, your dog will accept that you rushing over, adjusting them, and leaving again is a normal part of “Stay!” And that’s what they’ll do, because it’s just another mystifying thing you play together.

Remember your dog doesn’t care about any of the games, exercises, behaviors, or dog sports. Your dog only cares about playing with you, and being happy together. They do the “stuff” because we ask them to and it’s fun. From a dog’s point of view, they’d just as soon roll around in a trash pile with you as be your obedience competition partner. As long as it’s fun, and they’re with you, they like doing it.

Teaching “Stay!”

With your dog sitting in front of you, hold a treat at about your eye level and slowly and steadily bring it down to your dog’s mouth. If your dog doesn’t move any part of their body other than head or tail, give them the treat when you get there. Immediately start again with another treat at your eye level. If your dog moved, jerk the treat back up to eye level and start over.

If your dog is having a really hard time staying, move the treat towards them faster. You can slow it down as your dog learns the game and what to expect. And always have a second treat ready to go as soon as you deliver the first one. If you don’t, your dog will be “one and done.” We want to sustain the stay.

That’s really all there is to teaching “stay!”. To be able to walk around your staying dog, add motion one step at a time, always rewarding to your dog’s front. Work a gradually increasing arc until your dog is okay with you circling around her. Deliver rewards to the dog’s front so you don’t pull them out of position accidentally. You’ll know when your dog is truly starting to understand the exercise when you see her head flip from one side to the other to watch you as you go around.

Use what your dog knows

Once your dog knows the “Stay!” and you can walk around them, take advantage of it! Remember to say “Stay!” while you’re carrying that pasta pot across the kitchen. Or when you’re opening the hot oven to turn the batch of cookies. Invariably, when we trip over our dogs, it’s because we’ve neglected to tell them what we want them to do. And if your dog is anything like ours, they always have to be where the action is in the house.

Stay / Walk around your dog is behavior that’s absolutely counter to every instinct your dog has. Their natural inclination is always to be in the middle of the action. Always watching everything that’s going on. Many people don’t understand that “Stay!” is difficult work for a dog. A “Stay!” is never “doing nothing.” It’s active work for your dog, so be sure to appreciate and reward the effort.

The best dog training advice ever

The absolute best dog training advice sounds simple. Only two parts to it. And you don’t need any special tools, no particular gear. To really elevate your dog’s understanding, grow your relationship, and open up your dog’s best life, there are two things you need to do:

1: Wait
2: Shut up

We know that sounds rude. But it’s really hard to get people’s attention. And adhering to the best dog training advice isn’t easy. Just this morning, Hope was practicing some heeling with Torque and came to a stop. He sat, as he should. And then he flopped into a “Down.” He was trying to push Hope into whatever “next” would be. It didn’t work. She just looked at him and asked “What were you doing?” He stared back at her for at least 15 or 20 seconds before he got back up into a “Sit.” Hope said “Thank you!,” rewarded her dog for a good decision, and got back to her training game.

How long is a minute

We know how hard it is to just wait and say nothing. The temptation to repeat a command, or give a new one, is sometimes overwhelming. Resistance is not futile. It pays big dividends if you try it.

Think about having a two-legged teenager in the house. Mom says “Junior, please take out the trash.” Junior either ignores Mom or grunts some kind of acknowledgement. 15 minutes later, Mom repeats herself. And Junior grunts and/or waves again. After another 10 minutes, Mom’s lost her cool, and says decisively, “JUNIOR TIBERIUS TEENAGER – TAKE OUT THE TRASH!” And Junior finally does it.

Your training space does not have to be large.

If you keep repeating the same thing to your dog in the same way, that’s the pattern you’re training your dog to know. Say it once, clearly. Then shut up and give your dog time to think. For as long as it takes, if they’re still with you. If they’re not disengaging, they’re thinking, processing, and coming to a decision. It may seem like the time between word and action is forever – you could have said “Sit!” hundreds of times while you were waiting. That’s the point. You don’t want to have to say it a hundred times.

Trust us. We’re pretty certain your dog heard you the first time. Now they’re trying to figure out if you meant it, and what they’ll do about it.

Easier isn’t better

We know it’s easier to just say it again. Just don’t. Don’t deprive your dog of the opportunity to make a good decision. Believe in your dog. We’ve said it before: Wait for your dog!

The only way you can really find out if your dog knows something is to trust them to do it. You don’t know if your dog knows “Down!” unless you can say it once, from across the room, and your dog does it. We practice heeling quite a bit in our dog training classes. Randomly, we’ll call out “Down your dogs!” to our students. It’s really kind of impressive to watch a classful of dogs suddenly drop.

They don’t all start out that way. We’ve said “just wait” more times than we want to think about. And when people wait, their dog puzzles it out and does the right thing. Sometimes you can almost see the hamster-wheels in their brain spinning while they think. Some dogs will look around, see what the other dogs are doing, and copy. But given the chance to choose, dogs almost always choose wisely.

What if they don’t get it right?

By testing your dog’s knowledge of any skill, you gain valuable information for future training games. If they’re acing it, it’s time to move on. You can tuck that behavior into the drawer and air it out once in a while, just to keep it fresh. Now you have time to play a different game.

Nobody likes doing the same task over and over, without end. Not people. And not dogs, either. You can have a particular time and place that you play training games. If you do, your dog will learn the schedule and probably dash off to your special training area when it’s time. You’ll both have more fun if you play different training games, rather than just drilling something you’re “working” on. We want our dogs to be letter-perfect in the very specific exercises for competition obedience. That doesn’t mean we’re always hammering away at them. It means we treat them like all the other, silly, fun training games. Playing those maybe once a week. Maybe not. But always keeping it new, fresh, and fun for us and our dogs.

Get your dog to “Come!” Play the “Chase Recall” game

The absolute best, works-every-time method to get your dog to “Come!” is to run away. And it has to be really running – none of that fakey, backwards-walking, slow-motion-imitating movement. Run like hell and your dog will come running after you.

Why it works

What do you and your dog have in common? You’re both mammals. Both of you have four limbs. You may even share the same eye color. But one of the most fundamental traits of both humans and dogs is that we’re both predators. Humans are the planet’s apex predators.

You may not think of yourself that way. After all, we don’t have the eyesight of eagles, the speed of cheetahs, or the scenting ability of dogs. But we do have big brains that enable us to outwit our prey. And, in the case of our dogs, we can find ways to teach them and take advantage of the instincts we share.

Making use of the traits pre-packaged in dogs is what good training is all about. We don’t want dogs to defy their natural behaviors. We want to use their instincts to influence their choices.

Get them chasing you

Dogs’ vision has evolved to see motion. Their eyesight may not be all that great for “spot the difference” puzzles, but they see movement. If you’ve ever had an old dog with weakened eyesight, like our 14-year-old Tango, you may have found yourself waving your hand, or an object, to get their attention. It works because their brains are wired to see motion.

Use it! Most dogs are too domesticated to be serious hunters, especially when they live comfortable, inside lives. But they still have the urge to chase things that move. How many times has your dog startled a rabbit, squirrel, or even a bird, and run after it? If you have more than one dog, you know that most pups love a vigorous game of “Chase Me!” – often to the peril of household breakables.

But have you ever tried running away from your dog? The dog that makes sure you’re never lonely in the bathroom, who trips you when you turn around in the kitchen, isn’t going to sit idly by if you start running away. If you take off like a bat outta hell, your dog is going to be right there. (As an aside, this also works with toddlers. That stubborn two-year-old who doesn’t want to go home will toddle as fast as their legs will go if you start running. Interestingly, children can be fooled by “fake running.” Dogs, not as much.)

Refine the steps

If you’re so inclined, you can polish up your dog’s recall pretty easily. When your dog is getting close to catching you, turn around and ask him/her to sit. That’s the start of a competition Obedience, or Rally recall. To bring it to the next level, sitting straight in front of you, try tossing a treat between your legs as your dog approaches. Or you can use the “Watch!” game to get your dog to focus on you as they approach.

You don’t have to fancy up your dog’s recall. But all dogs should have a recall you can rely on. It’s one of the behaviors that can save your dog’s life. Just think what might happen if the plumber leaves your gate open…

Don’t worry about breaking the dog

Some people hesitate to try training games because they’re afraid of breaking the dog. It’s not possible. You can confuse your dog. You can even frustrate the heck out of your dog. But whatever you get “wrong” can be fixed. And your dog will always forgive you.

Some dogs worry about getting things “right.” It takes loads of patience and encouragement to convince these dogs that it’s okay to try new stuff, experiment, play around with new behaviors and new stuff. People worry about getting it “right,” too.

We see it in our classes, especially when people bring their children to class. Kids often make terrific dog trainers, because they’re not worried about how they look, whether their dog measures up, or if they’re doing it exactly right.

Here’s the thing – you don’t have to worry about it. If you’re training at home, your dog will love you no matter what you do. And the two of you will figure out what you meant together. If you’re out in public, no one’s looking at you. They’re all looking at your dog and how cute he/she is. And hopefully, how well-mannered and beautifully trained.

Get over yourself

Whether age or experience gave us the gift, we now completely own not caring what other people think. We train our dogs wherever we go. We’re as loud as we need to be. Your dog doesn’t care if you’re doing stuff right, or looking silly. He/she absolutely adores you. And your relationship with your dog only improves the more training games you play.

We’ve noticed in our classes how the person who works more with the dog gets closer to the dog. And the other family members can get a little jealous. Until they realize that your dog can have a different, unique, and tight bond with everyone in the family. Dogs are the epitome of unconditional love. There’s no limit on love. There’s enough for everybody.

Play with your dog

If there’s a particular training game you know would be beneficial for your dog, but you’re not quite sure if you’re playing it right – stop worrying! Do it the best you know how. If you want some clarification – ask us, send a video, post on our social media pages. We’re all over the place; Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, email. We check email and messages.

If you want the help, we’re here. But as long as you and your dog understand each other, how you’re training, your way of playing the games, it’s just fine. It’s much more important that you play training games with your dog than the “mechanics” of the games.

Step by step

We try to explain each little step of every game. Demonstrations of the games are in our videos. While the way we do things works, it’s certainly not the only way of doing things. You won’t break your dog if you don’t follow the steps exactly. Your dog may jump ahead several steps. That’s terrific! You don’t have to plod through where it’s not needed. Or your dog may need an even smaller breakdown for some steps. That’s okay, too. Some people love math. Others enjoy history. Some people learn by reading. Others need out-loud presentations. As long as it works, go with it.

The more “tools” you have in your dog-training toolbox, the better off you are. As an example – taking and holding a dumbbell is part of Obedience competition at the Open level. Not all dogs are natural retrievers. Some take to the dumbbell right away. Others just don’t get it. There are lots of ways of teaching a dog to love the dumbbell. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque caught on just with a couple of clicker sessions. Simon, Fran’s Boston Terrier, learned just by watching the other dogs. One dog we know fell in love with the dumbbell when his person tied a string to it and slowly dragged it along for the dog to chase.

Don’t worry that it’s not good enough

The Carpenters had a hit song “Sing” with that lyric – “Don’t worry that it’s not good enough for anyone else to hear. Just sing, sing a song.” Just train. Train your dog!

Make every training game fun for your dog

Make training fun for your dog. If you want your dog to learn, make sure they’re having fun. Dogs are just like people. They learn the most when they’re engaged. And the best way to engage both dogs and people is to make sure they have fun.

The school classes where you learned the most were the ones you enjoyed. Your teacher may have been tough, but made the class interesting, relatable, and fun. And you learned. It’s the same for dogs.

It’s interesting to see what games our dog training students play with their dogs during the week between classes. We can always tell – it’s the ones the dogs are best at.

And even though we tell our students which games are the focus for the week, it doesn’t always happen. The assigned games aren’t always the most fun, so they get shoved aside.

We saw it just this week. Hope introduced a couple of “trick” games to her students, “Catch!” with popcorn (preparing for the 4th of July), and “Leg Weaving.” The dog/handler teams in the class absolutely mastered both games in just one week. Their impulse control games? Still works in progress.

School figures

If you’re a fan of figure skating competitions, there used to be a category called “school figures.” We always found them fascinating, but they’ve been dropped. We suspect it’s because most spectators (and skaters) found them tedious and uninteresting. But the precision required in school figures were fundamentals that, in the long run, improved the skaters’ performances.

There are dog games that serve the same purpose. “Whatcha Gonna Do?” isn’t the most fun game to play. Especially if you’re playing it with a puppy whose needle-sharp teeth are making holes in your hand. But it’s the heart of impulse control. And most bad dog behavior is due to a lack of impulse control.

Impulsive pup

Simon, Fran’s four-year-old Boston Terrier, is possibly the most impulsive dog we’ve ever known. If he wants to do something, his first instinct is to rush right in. It’s only through consistent refreshers of impulse control games that he’s able to think before he does.

Simon adores fresh, cold water. Whenever we change the dogs’ water, several times a day, he’s always right there, ready to get the first slurp. Yesterday was hot and he was particularly anxious. As Hope lowered the bowl, he bashed in there and water spilled all over the place.

Did we yell at him? No. We put the bowl back on the counter, cleaned up the mess, and started again. And, as Hope lowered the bowl this time, she asked Simon “Whatcha Gonna Do?” He sat. The bowl reached the floor. Simon got his release word, and a good long drink.

Do it anyway

Everyone tends to spend more time doing things they think are fun. If you and your dog are having a good time playing “Catch!” you don’t have to stop at 2 Minutes.

The time limit is there to remind people the games they don’t like so much will be over soon. Your dog will pick up on your attitude, so at least pretend you like it. Smile and say “Yay! We get to play ‘Whatcha Gonna Do?’ now!” Even if you’re thinking “It’s only two minutes. We can do it for two minutes.”

The best part about sticking that smile on your face is that your dog will see it and be happy too. And if your dog is wiggling and having fun, you’ll feel it, too.

Get your dog’s attention with the “Watch!” game

Do you wish your dog would pay more attention to you? There are lots of times and circumstances where aggravation could be avoided if your dog just stopped staring at whatever, and looked at you. Like when your dog spots a bunny on your walk and takes off running when it does. Or when the person with the loaded cat carrier sits right across from you in the veterinarian’s waiting room. Wouldn’t it be great if you could instantly get your dog’s attention?

But how do you get your dog to focus on you when so many interesting things are happening all around? The answer is to be more interesting than anything else. How do you make that happen? Play the “Watch!” game!

Make them love the game

For the “Watch!” game to be effective, the reward for playing has to be the absolute top of your dog’s food chain. If your dog is “meh” about kibble, don’t use it. In other words, the perfect fuel for this game is one your dog would run through fire to get. For lots of dogs, it would be hot dogs, or cheese.

It doesn’t matter where you play the “Watch!” game – it doesn’t require much space or any “stuff” other than treats. This is another great “kitchen game” to play while you wait for the water to boil.

How to play “Watch!”

Have the treats (already diced into reward morsels) in a bowl close at hand, where you can easily reach them, but your dog can’t. Take one treat in each hand between your thumb and forefinger. For this game, we want our dogs to know that we have the treats. With your dog sitting or standing in front of you, hold your arms outstretched at the level of your ears. Straight out, with your hands as far apart as you can get them.

Every single dog we’ve ever met will glance from hand to hand, trying to figure out what you want them to do. One of the reasons we start with the hands so far apart is to clearly see where the dog is looking. We want them to meet our eyes. They’re not doing that if they’re looking back and forth like they’re watching a tennis match.

If your dog is easily frustrated, have them on collar and leash so they can’t leave the vicinity. You want them to keep trying to figure it out – at least for the 2 Minutes you’ll play.

As soon as your dog meets your eyes, even if it was by accident while back-and-forthing, say “Yes! Good Watch!” (or “Look!” – whatever word you want to use is fine) and give the dog, in quick succession, one treat from each hand.

Keep Going

Reload, and do it again. And again. It may take a few 2-Minute sessions before your dog is staring into your eyes like Lady & The Tramp. That’s okay. It will come. Just be consistent, hold those treats out, and stare into your adorable dog’s face. You’ll get your dog’s attention – just be patient.

The next step, when they’re meeting your eyes the majority of the time, is to start bringing your hands in closer to your head. The rate of progression depends on the dog, on the frequency you play the game, and the value of the rewards to the dog. More is better in this case.

Eventually, the objective is to have your hands tight up against your head. You should still be able to discern when your dog is looking at your face, not at the treats. That’s what you want.

Next step

As the game progresses, you can start lowering your hands to your sides. Again, take it slow and make sure your dog’s attention is still where you want it – on your eyes. The ultimate goal is for your dog to love this game so much, all you’ll have to say is “Watch!” and his/her head will snap around to meet your eyes.

The point of the game is to make it so incredibly rewarding for your dog to focus on you that he/she will disregard whatever distractions are around. Like “Touch!,” it’s a game you pull out and play whenever you need it, wherever you are. And whenever you want your dog’s attention.

There may be times when you give the signal “Watch!” because you need it, but don’t have any primo treats at hand. When that happens, and it happens to everyone occasionally, you’ve decreased the “balance” in your dog’s training account. Refresh and even add to that account by playing the game over the subsequent few days with top-of-the-line goodies. We always want our dog to love playing “Watch!” with us.

The easiest part of dog training

Everybody knows their dog’s favorite toys, treats, and the perfect spot for scritches. That’s all you need to know for training games. What are the things your dog loves best? Stockpile some of those, choose a game, and start playing!

All the nit-picky nuances

The things that aren’t as natural; reward timing and placement, consistent cues, breaking down behaviors into little teaching chunks, all come with time and practice. And there are some skills we never master, so we work around them. Both of us (Hope and Fran) are notorious for having terrible aim and throwing skills. Just awful. If there’s a way to toss a toy or ball so it smashes something, is unreachable, or causes an avalanche of other stuff, we’ll find it. That okay. We know we suck at it. Both of us practiced throwing the obedience dumbbell, without our dogs, just so we wouldn’t embarrass ourselves in public. We choose to do that here, instead.

And now the dumbbell retrieve is one of ours, and our dogs, favorite games. Because we’re both proud of ourselves for figuring out how to do it. Now it’s fun and we both look forward to playing with it.

Just play with your dog

It’s the easiest part of dog training because you don’t have to worry about getting it “right.” You’re not going to break your dog if you click at the wrong time, say the wrong thing, or misplace a treat. Your dog isn’t going to tell anyone you flubbed it, ever. And when you do screw up, and we all do, just give your dog an “oops” cookie and try again.

Many people worry that they’re doing something “wrong.” The only wrong is if your dog isn’t getting it. If they don’t understand the behavior you’re trying to shape, it’s time to find another angle for teaching it. You haven’t broken your dog, or your training. You just have to make some changes to clarify things.

The coolest thing about dog training is that your partner in crime, your dog, is always willing to play with you. Going back to our video series of trying to teach Torque to “Push” a tube with his nose, you’ll notice lots of changes from week to week. He didn’t understand, or something didn’t “work,” so we changed it.

Clean it up later

Go for the easy, fun part of dog training. Play some training games with your dog. If it needs some polishing, who cares? You can always do that later, when all of the fussy bits of training come more naturally. If you play with your dog, just a couple minutes a day, you’ll be juggling treats, leash, and clicker like a pro in no time.