Build on what your dog knows

Giving your dog a strong training foundation means you don’t have to keep reinventing the wheel. You can build on what your dog knows. You can start with the familiar to grow your dog’s understanding, their repertoire of behaviors and tricks, and build your partnership.

Booker in his "place!" Build on what your dog knows: It's easy to teach Booker to "Stay" from here.
Booker knows “Place”

If your dog already knows “Place” (whatever you call it; mat, bed, rug), you can use that as a base for teaching your dog to Stay. (“Place” is an integral part of eCourse 1: Clicker and Place. Clicker optional.) Your dog already knows that going into the place is a good thing – he or she always gets a reward for being there. You can start teaching “Stay” simply by extending the timing between reinforcements.

It’s important to be clear about your criteria for words like “Stay!” For those of us training in dog sports, “Stay” means: “do not move any part of your body except your head!” And that’s the definition we use, whether we’re teaching an Obedience Competition stay, or “the doorbell rang, go place!” stay. 

For obvious reasons, a completely non-moving stay can’t be held for too long. We use a different word for a more casual interpretation. In this case, it’s “Wait!” which means stay right about there. If you don’t need the more stringent definition, develop your own criteria for “Stay!” It could mean “okay as long as you’re in your place.” Or it could mean “no paws out of Place!” Whatever you decide, stick to it. Dogs don’t understand “maybe” – it’s either right or wrong, yes or no. 

Yellow means stay

We’re always finding new uses for common, inexpensive items. One of our favorites is cheap yoga mats. We use them to cushion hard surfaces and indicate “place.” In the dog sport of Agility, the parts of the obstacles dogs must touch are colored yellow. We use pieces of yellow yoga mats to train our dogs to always touch yellow. 

Some people think that dogs don’t see colors. They do, although their perception is different from ours. Yellow is a color that they can see, although it’s not as vivid for them as it is for us. Your dog can, in fact, learn to differentiate among identical objects of different colors. That’s a training game all by itself!

Getting back to using what the dog knows, Fran’s Boston Terrier Simon knows to get on the yellow mat and stay there until released. And, when Simon started to understand he always has to touch yellow, she brought her piece of yoga mat to agility class and put it on the obstacle. In only one class, Simon understood the relationship and consistently touched the yellow.

Extending the reach

We brought back the yellow yoga mat piece recently when Simon was having trouble with the “stay, walk around the dog” as a Rally instruction. He kept pivoting to look at Fran as she circled around him. He’s supposed to stay in the same position she left him in as she circles.

“Fixing” the behavior was as simple as putting out that old piece of yellow yoga mat. Fran heeled with Simon up to the mat, told him to “Stay!” and walked around. As simple as that. Using something familiar in a new situation let Simon understand what’s expected of him. He got lots of treats!

Stop Your Dog from Jumping on People

It’s really cute when puppies jump up to get attention. It’s not cute anymore when the dog grows up and isn’t a cute, tiny puppy any more. So how do you stop your dog from jumping on people? 

Cry for attention

How do you stop a dog from jumping on you?
A dog jumping on you is a plea for attention.

Dogs don’t generally just jump for joy. When they’re so full of energy they just can’t contain themselves, jumping up and down isn’t the usual behavior. Instead, they’ll get the “zoomies” and run like crazy. If your house, like ours, has a circular path, they’ll make it into a race track. And you’d best just stay out of the way until the zoomies run out.

Jumping, especially on people, is a plea for attention. And the best way to get it to stop is by ignoring it. Which, we freely admit, is easier said than done. 

In Hope’s Beginning Obedience/Puppy classes, dogs will often jump on her as she approaches. We don’t know if you can tell from our videos, but she’s not a big person. She’s about five-foot-nothing tall, and not incredibly substantial. In one session, there was a lovely, 50+ lb. Lab puppy named Gus who adored jumping on Hope and grabbing the mask off her face. On his hind legs, Gus is about the same height as Hope, so her mask was well within reach. It’s worth noting that he really is a very nice dog – he never snagged anything but the mask.

Be prepared

Knowing when your dog is likely to jump on someone, and what circumstances trigger the behavior, is key in stopping it. Set up the situation and be prepared. 

In this case, Hope had Gus’s people keep hold of his leash until she braced herself and was ready for his enthusiasm. Then she told them to release enough slack for Gus to reach her, but not go past. Gus grabbed the mask again, but Hope did nothing. She didn’t move, didn’t play “tug” with the mask, didn’t look at him, didn’t pay any attention to him. She looked past Gus at his people. And had to tell them repeatedly not to react.

And, after a few seconds of acting the fool, Gus got all four feet on the ground. Immediately, Hope told him what a good boy he was and started petting him. Which triggered his jumping. 

Hope instantly returned to braced-statue mode. No reaction whatsoever. And Gus got all four feet on the ground. Which earned him the praise and attention he wanted. 

Instant gratification

Timing is important in teaching dogs. If the lesson is “don’t jump on people” there has to be a visible difference. Jump = no attention. No jumping = praise, treats, and attention.

We’ve often said that doing nothing is, by far, the hardest part of dog training. (“The hardest part of dog training“) If you pay attention to behaviors you don’t want, you’re encouraging that behavior. If you remove that attention, the dog has no reason to continue the behavior – it’s not working for him.

Dogs always give you more of the behavior you focus on. If you repeatedly say “off, get off, no jump” it’s paying attention to the behavior. It works much better to emphasize when your dog is doing something you want. Instant praise, treats, or a game of tug will tell your dog he’s being “good,” that you like what he’s doing, and he’ll get more attention with this good choice.

Making good choices

Everyone, dogs included, is sufficiently selfish to do what works best. If jumping on people results in attention, even if it’s “No, No, bad dog,” it’s working. Dogs don’t discriminate between negative and positive attention. To your dog, anytime you focus on them, it’s a good thing. 

If you ignore the behavior you don’t want, your dog has no reason to continue doing it. The dog’s behavior isn’t working, so they stop doing it. 

If your dog is jumping on someone, have them stand like a statue. Fold their arms across their chest and stare at the ceiling. It may take some repetitions, but your dog will learn that jumping gets them nothing they want. Dogs particularly hate it when you don’t look at them. So make a point of looking away.

Flip side

The other side of the coin has to be just as fast and clear. If the dog has all four feet on the ground, meet their eyes, praise them mightily, and give treats, pets, toys. For as long as the good behavior lasts. Be ready to stop in mid-word if the jumping starts. 

It may take some time for the lesson to sink in. Each time the dog gets the same message, the “right” choice penetrates deeper into their personality. By the end of the class session, Gus sat whenever Hope came over to see him. Good boy, Gus!

It’s never okay to hurt your dog

Don't let your small dog hide.
It’s never okay to hurt your dog.

Why is it hard to understand that it’s never okay to hurt your dog? That training should never be painful? There’s always a better way.

Last week was a particularly challenging one. One of Hope’s competition Obedience students, who’s been with her class for years, had an electronic collar on her dog. 

The collar was black, the dog is black, and it was about half-way through the class before Hope noticed and called the student on it. 

The rationale had steam coming from Hope’s ears. 

The student, we’ll call her Sharon, likes to take her dog, Phydeaux, to the dog park to run off leash. While there, Phydeaux took it upon himself to jump on an unknown woman, and failed to return to Sharon when called. 

Sharon decided this was an “unsafe” situation for Phydeaux. Rather than choosing not to return to the dog park until her dog had a reliable “Come!,” Sharon contacted a different trainer, who insists on a shock collar. Phydeaux must “get used” to wearing it for two weeks, then it gets turned on. Sharon insisted it was okay for Phydeaux to wear the collar in Hope’s class because it wasn’t “on.” 

Since it was flashing, it apparently was on – just with no “zapper” remote in the vicinity. Not okay, Sharon.

Just flabbergasted

All of our students know that e-collars, prongs, and choke collars are not allowed in our classes. We will allow martingales, sometimes. Sharon knew it wasn’t allowed, but thought it was “okay” because the zapper wasn’t there.

No, Sharon. Not just in class. It’s never okay to zap your dog. 

We understand the concept behind the e-collars. Punishing dogs for doing something you don’t want them to dates back long before these torture devices. That doesn’t make it a good idea.

Think of it this way

On the spur of the moment, we weren’t able to come up with an analogy that would clarify our stance to Sharon. Since she thought it was an okay idea, she’ll probably never understand. But here it is, for you:

Let’s say you adore chocolate. And there’s a wonderful chocolate shop that we take you to enjoy. You can have anything you want, we’ll get it for you. As much as you want.

At some point during the visit to the chocolate shop, you will violate a rule. The rule wasn’t explained to you beforehand. You have no idea what it is. The consequence of violating that unknown rule is that you’ll be zapped with a taser.

You don’t know when it’s coming. You don’t know what triggers its use. You have no idea what you’ve done to deserve it. And yet, you’re flailing on the floor. 

So tell us – how do you feel about visits to the chocolate shop now? And about going somewhere with us? 

Other options

Sharon could have spent the time and energy teaching Phydeaux a perfect recall. It doesn’t take long with the 2-Minute Trainer course “Come!” She could have used a long line to keep a measure of control. She could have stopped going to the dog park. There are lots of things she could have done.

She chose to hurt her dog, rather than teach him. We used to have some fondness for Sharon. She and her dogs have had some success in our classes, and in the Obedience and Rally trials we’ve prepared her for. If she can so easily cast aside all the tenets of training we’ve shared, that relationship’s changed forever.

Setting your dog training goals

Most people seek out dog training help when there’s a problem they want to solve. Or because they’ve acquired a new dog and realize it’s been a while and need a refresher.

Providing solutions for those immediate dog training goals may be how you found us. We hope you’re staying because we’ve opened your eyes to how amazing it is to have a training-game routine with your dog.

Setting some dog training goals

We often say that there’s no deadline for dog training games, and no one but you and your dog should set the pace for your progress.

But say you do have a specific dog training goal. And a timeline you’d like to achieve it. Absolutely go for it!

Once you and your dog are familiar with the 2-Minute-Training method, you can set your own schedule and play games that will let you achieve your goal. You can play as often as you like, tailoring your games to emphasize the skills your dog needs.

Like what?

Participating in the "Reading to Dogs" program is a great dog training goal.
Participating in the “Reading to Dogs” program is a great dog training goal.

Let’s say your goal is to do therapy work with your dog. There are many programs for helping people from children to seniors; from “Reading to Dogs” to hospice or comfort-animal therapy.

For many of these programs, getting your dog’s certification as a therapy dog starts with getting the Canine Good Citizen title from the American Kennel Club. 

There are 10 specific “tests” a dog must pass to earn the CGC:

  • Accepting a friendly stranger
  • Sitting politely for petting
  • Appearance and grooming
  • Walking on a loose lead
  • Walking through a crowd
  • Sit and down on command, stay
  • Come when called
  • React calmly to another dog
  • React calmly to distractions
  • Calm during supervised separation

Every single one of these “tests” can be the focus of a 2-Minute-Training game. If you’re able to play training games multiple times a day, you can change which one to work on – or focus on one or two through the day. For specific requirements of each test, check the AKC website, or look for an animal-assisted therapy group near you.

Competitive goals

Some of us get so addicted to playing training games with our dogs that we’re just itching to find a place to show off their skills. 

It’s become apparent that Hope’s French Bulldog Torque is adept at the skills required for Rally Obedience – and he just loves doing all the stuff. Hope’s goal for 2022 is to find, enter, and compete in Rally Trials. Her long-term goal is for Team Torque to earn a Rally Championship title. She has no timetable for that goal. Time, the pandemic, and financial considerations will all impose constraints. 

Those constraints don’t matter to Torque. All he knows is that he gets to play fun games with his mom every single day. He doesn’t care whether it’s “Stack your Rings” or “Figure 8 with distractions” – it’s all fun and games for Team Torque. 

What’s your team name?

Get serious about having fun with your dog. Call yourselves “Team (Insert Dog Name Here)” Be intentional with your training games. If your only goal is to have fun, and build your relationship with your dog – that’s a great goal. Commit to your team. If you design a logo – we’d love to see it!

Looky-Loo Part II (Dog Training Game)

Looky-Loo is a dog training game that reminds your dog that the two of you are a team, doing things together. It lets dogs be dogs – investigating their surroundings, being aware of the world around them. While always maintaining a “check in” mentality. The fun continues as long as your dog remembers to “check in” with you.

This applies whether you’re out for a meandering walk around the neighborhood or running a competition agility course. The invisible connection between you and your dog is an important part of your relationship. In unfamiliar circumstances, or if your dog’s unsure, your demeanor when your dog checks in will help determine how interactions proceed.

Next step in Looky-Loo

In the first phase of Looky-Loo you held a toy or other object behind your back, showed it to your dog briefly while saying “Look!”, and then hide it again. When your dog looked at your face, rather than for the toy, you clicked and rewarded. After just a few sessions, your dog should realize the object of the game is to focus on you.

The next step is to keep the toy visible. Only say “Look!” once when you first show it. If it’s a particularly desirable toy, it may take a while until your dog remembers to focus on you. As soon as they do, click and reward. The reward can be a treat or even a game of tug with the “Look!” toy. Focusing on you has to be the most rewarding part of the game. The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you, not at the object.

Timing is important

The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you. That’s the goal of “Looky-Loo.” Getting your dog to return his/her gaze to you after something distracting happens. (See last week’s tip: Looky-Loo Part 1.) It’s not the end of the world if your timing is off sometimes. It happens to everyone. When it does, and it will, give your dog an “Oops! Cookie” and reset the game. Just keep the goal in mind and watch your dog’s eyes. 

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. Some people, playing attention games, even start holding the treat by their noses to bring their dog’s focus up to their eyes. That lures the dog to look at their face, rather than rewarding the dog’s decision to watch. “Watch me!” is a phrase you might hear a lot in dog training classes. It works sometimes. It doesn’t teach the dog that watching is more interesting than that speck on the floor. 

Upping the game

The next step, before you take “Looky-Loo” out on the road, is to get your dog to look at distractions in the environment and still choose to look at you. Rather than holding the object, it will be on the floor where you’ll be passing by it. 

It’s time to move the game someplace where you have space to move a few steps and place a distracting object to the side. Place an object that isn’t very interesting to your dog on the floor. Holding the dog’s leash, try to walk by the object, saying “Look!” Keep walking, and when your dog’s focus is on you, click and reward. If the dog’s attention stays on the object, go back to the last step, using the same object. Your dog will let you know when they’re ready to move on, or if it’s not quite time.

Fran and Simon have a variation of Looky-Loo:

Moving on

Remember, there’s no timetable for dog training games. Dogs learn at their own pace. And some games go more slowly than others. If your dog is extremely curious, this may be a tough one for them.

The next steps would be to change the object used as a distraction. We started our Looky-Loo dog training game with something that the dog didn’t really care about. Make the distraction more desirable in gradual steps. Work your way up to things that your dog loves. Can your dog still “Look!” and come back to you? What if it was a favorite toy? Or a bowl of food?

Taking it to the streets

When your dog is fairly proficient at “Look!” and focus, it’s time to move the game to places you may actually need it. When you do, start the game with a quick reminder of where the game began – hide an object behind your back, show it briefly while saying “Look!” and hide it again. Just a quick refresher helps the dog know what game you’re playing.

Simon is distracted - we need to take a step back in the Looky-Loo dog training game.
Time to go back a step in the “Looky-Loo” dog training game…

When you’re out and about, you can make anything the subject of “Looky-Lou!” Just tell your dog to “Look!,” whether it’s a squirrel, a person walking, or a dog being walked in the distance. When your dog looks back at you, click and reward. 

Be ready

Your dog is learning to gauge their reaction to “stuff” by your response. Stay calm, tell your dog to “Look!” and wait for them to pay attention to you. Be sure you’re watching your dog’s face so you can tell the exact moment their focus is on you. Be more excited by your dog watching you! That’s the tremendous accomplishment – celebrate it with enthusiasm!

Never too many dog training treats

Simon agrees that there are never too many dog training treats. He's sitting at Fran's side in "Heel" position for a reward.
Simon agrees there are never too many treats.

There is no such thing as too many dog treats. Especially when introducing your dog to something new, there can’t be too many rewards. It’s one of the best investments you can make – whether your dog is learning to eliminate outside, or being calm when someone comes in the house, there are never too many dog training treats.

But my dog will get fat!

Every class session there’s a student who worries about their dog getting fat. While we understand the concern, there are ways of controlling your dog’s calories without cutting back on training treats. Use the dog’s regular food for training! Why not? Your dog would love getting food from you instead of a bowl. It will take longer to eat, and you both accomplish something. 

If your dog isn’t crazy about their food, try mixing in tidbits of some delicacy to make it more appealing. Measure out their regular portion and stir in some bits of hot dog or cheese. Most dogs love those. One student in our classes even used defrosted, popcorn shrimp. Her dog loved it and the other dogs in class got very good at working despite the distracting smells.

More calorie-friendly tips

There are lots of ways to control your dog’s intake without cutting back on quantities. Every good choice your dog makes deserves a reward. That reward can be a carrot slice, or a green bean. It could even be air-popped popcorn! Most dogs adore it. 

Your dog may have a different opinion on things we don’t consider treats; rice cakes, diced celery, apple pieces are all possibilities. If it’s safe for dogs to consume, it’s worth trying. You never know what surprising food item your dog will go crazy for. 

But my dog has tummy trouble

This week we talked to a woman whose 16-week-old puppy is on prescription canned food. Per the veterinarian’s advice, he can’t have anything else for a time. After our talk, she’s getting creative. Taking that icky, smelly, gooey canned food and scooping pea-sized “meatballs.” She’s freezing them and using them for training treats. 

With a little thought and problem-solving, you can find a way to reward your dog for every single good choice she makes. 

Does it have to be food?

Rewards for your dog can be anything the dog enjoys. (A while ago we discussed the various methods of rewarding your dog.) If your dog’s favorite thing in the world (other than you) is a tennis ball, throw the ball as a reward! If it’s a scratch behind the ears, do that. Just acknowledge every single good decision your dog makes. Even if it’s just a “Good Dog!” By itself, praise isn’t usually enough to encourage dogs to repeat a behavior. But interspersed with more substantial treats, it’s fine.

Some people are still stuck in the old-school idea that “Because I said so!” should compel obedience from dogs. It generally doesn’t work with children, and it certainly doesn’t motivate dogs to obey. The idea of positive reinforcement training is to get your dog to understand “good” behavior. The stuff that’s rewarded will be repeated. If there’s no reward, there’s no reason to do it again.

Transfer of value

Once you and your dog have developed a training game habit, you’ll find your dog eager to play training games with you for the sheer fun of it. When that happens, you can randomize rewards. Instead of rewarding each step in a sequence, a treat for “job well done!” is enough. 

The game itself becomes the reward for your dog. Having your complete attention and focus, even if it’s only for 2-Minutes, is enough to make your dog happy. They learn, your relationship deepens, you understand each other better. Life with your dog improves with every reward delivered.

Top 10 reasons to play dog training games

Torque holding cardboard tube. So cute! This is why we play dog training games.
Look at that face! That’s why we play dog training games!

We’re always surprised when people we assume are “dog people” don’t play dog training games regularly. It’s great for both dogs and people and so much a part of our lives that we sometimes forget that not everybody is convinced. Even people we thought would be on board. 

Our dog obedience club rents space at a doggy day care in the area. The timing overlaps a bit with the daycare operation, so we’ve gotten to know some of the employees. This week Hope was showing a dog training game video to one who claims to be a dog trainer. She was shocked when he asked “Why do you bother with that?”

The why of it all

It’s a valid question. Why do we bother with dog training games? There are so many reasons it’s difficult to list them all, but here are the top 10:

Reasons to play dog training games:

  1. It’s fun. Especially if you stick to the time limits. We call it 2-Minute-Dog-Training, but we usually stretch it to five, since we get to play with our dogs. Once you start playing, and see how much the dog enjoys it, how much they can learn, and how eager they are to play, it’s addictively fun.
  2. It grows your relationship with your dog. Some dogs may be a bit aloof, or more independent. Even these dogs become better companions through dog training games. They look to their people for direction, for feedback, and for rewards, be it a tidbit or food, a scratch, or a “good dog!” 
  3. You evolve into a better teacher. When you realize that your dog, who doesn’t speak your language, is learning what you’re teaching, it’s a revelation. You’re able to connect, even without a common tongue.
  4. Your patience grows. We’ve talked before about how hard it is to just wait and do nothing while your dog tries to figure something out. Doing nothing to “help” is tough. But growing your patience with dog training helps your relationships with people, too. 
  5. Your dog, and you, both learn to be better problem solvers. Just the practice of breaking things down into small steps helps change your approach to almost any problem. Seeing the trees, as well as the forest, helps you develop workable solutions.
  6. Dog training games require lots of dog energy. Thinking is hard work for your dog. It’s fun, but it does require focus and concentration, which are tiring. A few minutes playing dog training games is as tiring for your dog as miles of walking, or a half hour of “fetch.” Even high-energy dogs usually need a nap after an intense dog training game.
  7. Training games add variety to your dog’s life. You don’t play the same game every day. There’s always the excitement of anticipation for your dog when you start a session – “What will we play today?” Even if you play more than once a day (you should!), it’s never the same game twice in a row. 
  8. You learn your dog’s preferences, strengths, and weaknesses. Some dogs love “finding” stuff. Others love carrying things. Or it may be a combination, like “hide and seek,” or “put your toys away.” And they have particular favorites: Booker loves “putting away” soft foam blocks. Torque prefers cardboard tubes. 
  9. You and your dog become more creative. You can make up games that only you and your dog know the rules for. We noticed that Simon loves stacking things in the bin when he plays “put your toys away.” So we’ve started a new Simon game – stack the blocks. 
  10. Playing dog training games enriches both your lives. Sure, you could sit on the couch and watch TV together. And that’s fun, too. But it’s even better after a short, fun, dog training game session. Because you did something good for both of you, enjoyed each other’s company, gained respect for your dog’s capabilities, and shared your commitment to each other.

Get up and play

Booker loves to play with his foam blocks and put them "away."
Booker loves to carry foam blocks and put them “away.”

Frankly, we don’t know why anyone wouldn’t play dog training games. In addition to all the other stuff, the videos are fun to watch – whether you’re remembering what a good time you had, or showing off your dog’s skills to someone else. 

We think everyone with a dog should commit a few minutes a day to giving attention to their dog. While it’s understandable to skip a day here and there, a 2-Minute Dog Training Game is a minimal ask. And if someone isn’t willing to focus on their dog a couple minutes a day, we wonder why they have a dog at all.

Forbidden fruit is sweetest

There’s a streak in all of us that’s a bit rebellious. The thing you’re absolutely not supposed to do is the most appealing option. It’s true for dogs, too. Forbidden fruit is sweetest.

As an example: There’s a narrow little walkway next to the unattached garage that goes back to the alley. We’ve gated it off at the edge of the garage – there’s no reason the dogs have to line up at that back portion to watch/bark at the people walking their dogs down the alley. 

It’s just a little path, no more than a couple of feet wide. There’s nothing interesting back there – just the pooper scooper and bucket, the walk, and some edging stones. Absolutely nothing to fascinate dogs.

But it’s the best thing/place/activity

Naturally, the dogs became obsessed with getting behind that gate. Our normally gate-respecting dogs got it into their heads that the citadel must be breached! So they did. Battered right through the gate to go sniffing around.

The first, and totally natural reaction, is to yell for them to get out of there, get a bit angry, grab their collars and haul them back to the “safe” zone. That would have worked – for the moment.

But it also would have emphasized the space as important – something that got them all kinds of attention. Remember – dogs don’t distinguish between “good” attention and “bad” attention. They have your focus, and that’s their favorite thing.

Still the hardest thing

Simon and Booker, far away from the forbidden but attractive gate

Instead, we worked to make the area as uninteresting as possible. We opened the gate wide and went to the other side of the yard where we proceeded to reward any dog who decided to come with us to the “good” side. By ignoring the naughty behavior, we changed it from “attractive” to “boring.” 

It still goes against natural instinct. When we see a miscreant doing something they shouldn’t, we absolutely want to call them on it. But again – that’s drawing attention to the thing.  A while back we wrote about the hardest part of dog training: patience! Patience pays in all aspects of training!

It took a few tries, but that gate and area have lost the dogs’ interest and they’re on to new and different ways to push our buttons.

People love forbidden fruit, too

It’s a reminder of how similarly human and canine minds work. Back in the day, many of our friends’ parents kept their liquor cabinets locked. And our friends plotted ways to get into those cabinets and into trouble. It was a “thing.” 

Our house worked a little differently. The liquor was always accessible on a shelf. It was no big deal. On the rare occasion that the adults in the house had a cocktail, we asked for a taste and were given one. For the most part, we found the taste nasty and would happily go back to our own “special” drinks. It was a rare treat to have a soda and we thoroughly enjoyed our Canfield’s 50/50 for cocktail hour.

Dogs’ minds work very much like ours. If you make something “off limits” it can become more attractive. You’ll find that bright, inquiring little mind obsessing over things they oughtn’t. A better alternative is to minimize the importance so it loses its attraction.

It’s an example of how doing nothing is so important, and so difficult. Our attitude, attention, posture, and focus all communicate to our dogs. If we focus on the “bad” stuff, our dogs will, too. Instead, communicate clearly with your dog by rewarding them with good timing and good placement. If you want your dog away from that gate – go away from that gate and reward when they come with you.

Doggie see, doggie do – dogs learn from other dogs

Dogs are sponges. They watch, and absorb. And dogs learn from other dogs, as well as from people.

One of the great things about having multiple dogs is that they do learn from each other. It’s easier to housebreak a puppy when you have an older, housebroken dog. The puppy copies what the older dog does. Same thing with the household routine. If the already-trained dog waits to go out the door until it’s allowed, the puppy will figure out the rules, too.

Idol worship

Dogs learn from dogs - baby Booker is with his idol Tango in a small dog bed.
Baby Booker emulates his idol Tango – dogs learn from dogs.

It helps if the older dog is puppy-friendly and likes having the little one around. They will be more tolerant of puppy shenanigans, and actively teach the puppy what’s okay and what’s not. When the play gets too rough, you may see the older dog holding the puppy down. It’s entirely appropriate and teaches the pup when enough is enough.

Puppies tend to be single-mindedly selfish little creatures. They want what they want when they want it. If they see another dog waiting patiently for food or other desirable thing, they’ll learn to emulate that behavior. However, for everyone’s safety, we do recommend separating, even crating the puppy for feeding time. This has the dual benefit of teaching the puppy that crates are good, and making sure the older dog won’t feel they have to guard a valuable resource like food. The older dog will probably also appreciate a chance to relax and enjoy his meal without worry.

Flip side of the coin

Dogs learn all kinds of wonderful things by watching other dogs. Ours seem to absorb the training games we play just by watching. When it’s their turn, they jump right in, seeming to know stuff we don’t remember teaching.

The downside is that puppies also absorb all the things you’d rather they wouldn’t, too. And they tend to learn the “bad” stuff even more quickly than the good stuff. 

If you have one dog that barks at any movement on your street, the puppy will probably develop the same habit, too. To avoid perpetuating the cycle, you have to take an active role. Because it’s almost impossible to train two dogs at the same time, you must set your priority. 

Barking up a storm

In the barking example – if the dog has been doing it for any length of time, it’s going to take a concerted, consistent effort to change the habit. Rather than trying to “fix” the older dog’s behavior, it’s simpler to avoid the situation with the puppy. By nature, some dogs are “better” watchdogs than others, but all can become barkers.

When the older dog barks, the puppy will probably run to see what’s going on. To show they’re being a good student, they may even join the barking, without even knowing why.

Instead of yelling at everyone to “be quiet!” – call the puppy and run the other way. Find a toy and start playing. Turn the other dog’s bark into a reason to come to you! If you’re a lot of fun and your game plan is exciting, you may even get the older dog to join the fun, rather than persist in barking. (We discussed another way of “breaking the feedback loop” a little while ago.

Timing is never good

There’s never really a “good” time to get another dog. Life has a way of interrupting plans. If you’re considering adding another dog to your family, it’s best to be ready when the opportunity presents. 

To get ready – take an honest look at the dog you already have. Are there any behaviors or habits that you’d hate for a puppy to develop? If so, now is the time to teach your present dog to be better. Develop a plan, setting the goal you want to achieve. Then back-chain the steps you need to take to get there. Turn each step into a training game.

With a plan in place and a goal in mind, even if the puppy doesn’t show up at your doorstep, the dog you have will benefit from training games. You’ll both be happier.

Dog training shouldn’t hurt

Decades ago, it was commonly thought punishment was necessary to dog training. That dogs wouldn’t understand, or obey, unless they were forced. When you know better, you do better. We now know that dog training shouldn’t hurt.

Positive reinforcement dog training isn’t permissive – dogs aren’t allowed to do whatever they want whenever they want to do it. But it also isn’t punishing. If you ever enlist the help of a dog trainer who advocates the use of either “corrections” or “punishment,” run away. 

But the old ways worked

Maybe so. But punishment is never a long-term solution to any problem. In studying human psychology, also applicable to dogs, the problems with punishment include:

  • It only tells you what not to do. There’s no guidance.
  • It creates fear, which may lead to 
  • Increased aggression.
  • The behavior which triggered the punishment is not forgotten. It’s suppressed and can return when the punishment is absent.

In force-based training, when a puppy had an “accident” in the house, the advice was to “rub the dog’s nose in it,” while yelling “No!” This didn’t teach the puppy not to mess in the house. It taught them not to let you find the mess. So they got sneaky about it, instead of learning not to do it. There was a major interrupt between what was being taught, and what was learned.

Not spiteful creatures

Dogs are really honest beings. They’re not spiteful, or vengeful, or “mad.” They simply don’t understand the “right” thing to do because they don’t know what it is. A classic example is the dog who might urinate on the owner’s bed when left alone. That dog isn’t angry at being left alone. He’s anxious and stressed because he hasn’t been taught how to cope with separation. 

Positive reinforcement training, as 2-Minute-Trainers teach, is building the dog’s understanding so she can make good decisions when faced with unfamiliar situations. If your dog has been taught to rely on you for guidance and feedback, she’s less likely to make poor choices on her own. 

Purely positive is a myth

Realistically, it’s impossible to never use “aversives” in dog training. Since the definition of “aversive” includes anything the dog doesn’t like, even the mildest could qualify. Something as simple as walking away from a dog that’s barking at you can be viewed as aversive, since the dog doesn’t like it. 

Getting technical, it’s called “Negative Punishment” – removing something the dog wants (you) in order to decrease behavior. In the four quadrants of Operant Conditioning, “negative punishment” is the pair to “positive reinforcement”- like giving a treat for a prompt response to “Sit!”

For the most humane, and effective dog training, we use only these. Reward what you like, ignore what you don’t. 

Not the fastest method

We know that in today’s world we all want what we want when we want it. But dogs learn at their own pace. If we’re patient and consistent, our dogs can learn whatever we choose to teach them. Step by step, teaching then testing their comprehension. Some things your dog will get almost instantly. Others take a while. Some things will require that you find a different way of explaining things. It’s worth it.

Simon's "Stand" required a new way of explaining what was required. But force was never involved. Dog training shouldn't hurt.
Simon, not standing.

Fran’s 3-year-old Boston Terrier Simon was always crouching when asked to “Stand!” He’s almost ready for competition obedience, but the “Stand for Exam” was holding them back. He associated “Stand” with a weird little half-sit, instead of the proper position. 

He just wasn’t getting it. So Fran found a different word, and a different way of explaining it to him. After only a couple of sessions, his “Station!” looks like a proud show dog stance, instead of a wobbly squat.

Dog training shouldn’t hurt

We do know some old-school trainers who pretend to be positive, and are anything but. They’ll give their dog a collar “pop” correction while saying sweetly “Good dog!” The dog rarely hears “Good dog!” when it gets things right the first time. This dog’s tail is never wagging happily. Instead, you see the slow, steady sweep of fearful appeasement.

Your dog shouldn’t be afraid to get things wrong. They should know that as long as they try, the worst that can happen is there’s no reward. Which is a signal to try again, try something else. Positively-trained dogs keep going. Because it doesn’t hurt to be wrong.