Don’t fix your dog. Start over!

Don’t fix your dog. It’s probably not worth the effort. Instead, reimagine and start over!

In our “throw away” society, we’re used to the fact that it’s often better to buy something new than fix the old, broken thing. We’re not debating the merits of renew, reuse, recycle. We’re tree-huggers from way back. But in this case we’re looking at the issue from a strictly economic point of view. It makes no sense to pay for an appliance repair that costs more than half the price of a new unit. 

Dogs, however, are not things. They are not disposable. Our commitment to our dogs is based on emotion, not economics. Our dogs are worth the investment of our time and energy to “fix” the things that aren’t working. But instead of changing what’s already there – we’re going to reimagine and reinvent. Don’t fix your dog. Start over!

New is easier

When it comes to dog training, it’s much easier to teach your dog something new than to change an already-ingrained behavior. Habit is one of the most powerful forces in the universe and it’s tough to change. Our own habits, as well as our dogs’. But, with patience and consistency, it can be done. We talked about patience just last week with Dogs need processing time, too!

Don't fix your dog. Start over. Fran had to re-teach Tango's release cue. She didn't fix the old one, she started over with Tango's release.

Let’s talk about Tango, Fran’s now-12-year-old Brussels Griffon. He came with a myriad of issues, including overt aggression toward both people and dogs, documented in Fran’s book, Tango: Transforming My Hellhound. 

Once Tango turned the corner and was able to participate in dog sports, Fran faced an entirely different situation with him. When playing agility, both in training and in competition, Tango wouldn’t move off the start line. His “release cue” – the signal that “stay” was over and it was time to move – was broken. 

Try and try again

Fran went back to the basics of the stay and release training games. Multiple sessions with no substantial change. Tango just wasn’t responding to his long-established “go” command. 

Rather than continue in the frustrating cycle, we realized the word Fran was using had, somehow, become permanently tainted in Tango’s mind. We don’t know what caused it, or how it happened. He’s a dog. He’ll never be able to explain it. 

We fixed it by starting over. Fran chose a new word, “action,” instead of “go.” She started at the very beginning. And it worked.

Avoiding the issue

No, we didn’t fix the problem. But we found a way to work around it and made it go away. It’s much easier to try something new than to fix the broken thing, with dogs as well as appliances. Keep the dog. Toss the training that’s not working. Craft a new game to teach the “right” way to do whatever it is. 

It’s always easier to teach a dog a new skill instead of changing an old habit. Whatever your dog’s annoying behavior is, try to think about it in a different way and devise a new approach to an old problem. Don’t fix your dog. Start over! Try a different approach to the issue.

Creativity is tough

In Tango’s case it was pretty simple, just teaching a different word for a behavior he already knew. The majority of dog training is building our dogs’ vocabularies and pairing those words with actions. Most dogs really want to do what you ask. They just may not understand what it is.

That’s why training games work. In short, focused sessions you can concentrate on a single word/action and phenomenally increase your connection and understanding with your dog.

Dogs need processing time, too!

Dogs need processing time, too!

When you’re having a conversation with someone and they say something unexpected, you need a moment to switch gears. That’s what we mean by processing time. Dogs need processing time, too. A chance to let the information flow from ears, to brain, to action.

Not their native language

Remember when you’re playing dog training games – English isn’t your dog’s first language. Just like any non-native speaker, it may take a moment to translate, understand, and respond. It’s perfectly normal.

Torque starts with a sit on the stool. He needs processing time when Hope asks for a different position.

Every other day, Hope’s French Bulldog Torque does his physical fitness routine of squat, crouch, sit, and stand (in a random order) across a four-inch-high stool. Each of those instructions describes a very specific action.

  1. Squat means step off the front of the stool with your front paws and bend your back legs into sit position.
  2. Crouch is step off the back of the stool and bend your back legs into a sit position.
  3. Sit means sit with your whole self on the stool.
  4. Stand means stand, all four feet on the stool.

Each time they do this routine, Hope can tell how focused Torque is by how quickly he responds to the various commands. Some days, he’s sharp as a tack and instantly moves smoothly from one position to another.

Other days? We say he “doesn’t have his ears on” when he reacts like he’s never heard the word “sit” before. He has. Millions of times.

Processing time

Most days, however, it takes a beat or two. Torque hears the word and you can almost see the cogs meshing as he processes the information. He gets the time he needs to think it through.

Most people want their dogs to succeed, so they jump in to “help” whenever their dogs seem slow to respond. What the dog learns is to wait and let “mom” do the work. 

Like many people, dogs are essentially lazy. If someone wants to do the task for them, most dogs are more than happy to let them. The more you “help” your dog, the more helpless they become. Instead, try giving them time to process and get it right, 

Tough to remember

Being patient and just waiting is really hard. How long do you wait before you repeat the command? How long is long enough?

The answer depends on the dog and you. The best way to tell is to watch your dog and see if he/she is still trying and thinking, or if they’ve checked out on the task. 

When dogs don’t understand what’s being asked, they tend to look for ways to escape.  Wandering away, looking away, barking, jumping, scratching, are all ways dogs have of telling us they don’t know. They’re confused and uncomfortable. 

If you consistently get this reaction for a particular game, go back to an earlier step in the training. Even if it’s back to the beginning – that’s okay. Sometimes we all need refreshers on stuff we used to know.

Learning a foreign language

Your dog is learning a foreign language. Just like people, younger dogs tend to learn faster than adult dogs. It doesn’t mean that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. 

It just means they need a bit more time to process. Translating what you say into actions they perform is a small miracle our dogs achieve each and every day. It’s no wonder dogs need processing time. Give it to them.

Top 10 tips for dog training

End of Session

Booker and his dog training school essentials. We used the Top 10 tips for dog training with Booker at school.
Booker’s first day of school – long ago. The Top 10 tips for dog training came in handy!

This week marks the end of the first session of in-person dog training classes in 18 months. Our Beginner students have come so far, and we’re so proud of them. We developed this list of Top 10 Tips for dog training to remind them of things we’ve worked on. It’s hard to take notes when you’re supposed to be paying attention to your dog!

The Top 10:

  1. Focus on your dog for the entire training session. Your dog gets all your attention the entire time. Just as you don’t want your dog to misbehave, you don’t want to miss any “good stuff” that should be rewarded. If “good” looks the same as “naughty,” the devil will win every time. 
  2. Keep it short, fast, and fun. Dog training isn’t an endurance event. Both your and your dog’s attention spans are limited. (See #1.) That’s why we call it 2-Minute-Training. Two minutes at a time may be too short – but 15 minutes is too long for most dogs. Neither one of you can or should maintain intense focus for that long.
  3. Ignore the stuff you don’t like. The more attention you pay to barking, mouthing, jumping, biting, etc. the more your dog will do it. Your dog thinks you’re playing the game. Dogs don’t distinguish between “bad” and “good” attention. They just know you’re engaging with them, which they love.
  4. Pay your dog. Every single time. Especially when they’re just learning. If you worry about your dog getting fat from an abundance of treats – use their meals as training treats. There’s nothing special about dog food in a bowl. Dog food from your hand makes it very special! (You might enjoy the article about your dog’s reward bank.)
  5. When you are in motion with your dog, always reward from the hand closest to the dog. If your dog crosses in front of you to get the treat, they will trip you. It will hurt.
  6. Do not repeat commands. If your dog doesn’t understand “Sit!,” they’re not going to understand “sit, sit, sit, Sit, SIt, SIT, SIT!” If they don’t do it the first time, either you don’t have the dog’s attention, or the dog doesn’t understand the word. 
  7. Build your dog’s vocabulary. Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. Your job is to teach those words. When you are teaching a new word, like “bed!,” stand by the bed, look at the bed, and when the dog shows interest in the bed say “good bed!” and throw a treat in the bed. Repeating the word pairs the object (or action) with its name. Infants learn language through constant repetition, even before they’re verbal. Dogs can learn the same way.  
  8. If you’re in a bad mood, angry with your dog, frustrated, or cranky it’s not a good time for a training session. The only exception is if training your dog is your happy place and you can put everything else aside for the 2-Minute session. 
  9. There’s no such thing as too many training sessions. If you want to play training games with your dog for two minutes every hour – go for it! More is better in this case. Try to get in at least one or two sessions every day. If you don’t have two minutes to play with your dog most days, you shouldn’t have a dog.
  10. Don’t hurt your dog. There’s no popping the leash, pushing on hips, choking of dogs in positive reinforcement training. We are teaching our dogs how to make good choices. Dogs should approach every training game session with joy and anticipation. Tails should be wagging. 

Bonus: Beginner Training Games:

Breaking your dog’s feedback loop

Dogs, just like people, tend to get caught in patterns of behavior. What is your dog’s feedback loop?

For many dogs it starts with frustration when they don’t know what they’re supposed to do. And the behavior manifests as barking. Pretty soon, unless you have a way of breaking the loop, whenever your dog is frustrated he/she will resort to barking. 

Untying your dog’s feedback loop

Teddy was barking uncontrollably - his feedback loop. Sitting on the kitchen chair. I turned my back on him.

The saying “if you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you always got.” Absolutely true. If you always say “Quiet!” (loudly) when your dog starts barking, it’s become his/her cue to bark. You’re fueling the loop, rather than interrupting it. (We talked about this before, in our post, “Yes, Your Dog is Your Baby.”)

To turn the barking into an actual trick, with your dog able to perform on command, stop and play the barking game. Click and say “Good Bark!.” Chances are, if you’ve always tried to stifle the behavior, your dog will be startled by the click and try to figure out what he was doing that was rewarded.

If your dog barks again, either click and reward to reinforce it as a new trick, or turn your back and walk away. When your dog follows you quietly, click and say “Good Quiet!”And if he barks, click and say “Good Bark!” 

Of course you can use whatever words you want instead of “Quiet” and “Bark.” Just remember to be consistent.

Alternative to the loop

If you just want your dog to be quiet, there are other ways to interrupt. Reel her in and, if your dog is small enough, pick her up and give her a hug. If you have a big dog, drop down on your knees and hug her. 

Do something unexpected, so your dog is paying attention to you, rather than being caught in the established routine. If your dog knows a palm touch, switch into that game. If the dog is being truly incorrigible, put down all the training gear; clicker, treats, leash, etc. and just leave the vicinity. That’s it. You’re done. 

Breaking the bargain

Remember that dog training games are the bargain we make with our dogs. They get what they want when we get what we want. If they’re not interested in keeping up their side of the bargain – we don’t have to play. A little cold-shoulder can result in a remarkable change in attitude.

Refusing to play with you is disrespectful and rude. One of the results of playing dog-training games is improved manners and confidence in your dog. It’s up to you to reject the lack of respect your dog is showing when he/she ignores you. Denying your dog your attention and “face time” usually works to remind them of your partnership. You are the senior partner. You decide the game. 

Other loops

One of the most common “feedback loops” in dog training happens when agility dogs are learning or practicing the weave pole obstacle. It’s a series of 12 poles in a straight line and, as named, the dog’s job is to weave in and out between the poles. There’s a right way to do that. 

Many dogs, both learners and veterans, occasionally get caught doing it wrong. And are seemingly unable to break out of the pattern. 

The only way to get the dog’s head back in the game is to stop. Take a break. Refocus. Try again, either in a few minutes or at another time altogether. We all have days when our focus is off.

If your dog is just experiencing a lack of focus, don’t worry about it. Just break it off, do something else. Try again later. This isn’t an entrenched loop, but a momentary lapse.

Upward curve

Dog training doesn’t go in a straight, upward line. There are ups and downs, good days and not-so-good. The general trend should be towards your goal, whatever that may be. If you find yours going in loops, it’s time for a change.

The hardest part of dog training

What do you think is the hardest part of dog training?

There are lots of possibilities; timing, coordination, remembering, getting focus, carving out the time to play training games. But all of those are just a matter of practicing. They all get easier with experience. The more training games you play with your dog, the better you get at it.

The “Winner” is

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing. It’s standing like a statue, not saying anything, not doing anything, while your dog acts a fool. She’s barking, jumping, biting at the leash. 

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing when your dog is misbehaving.

If you’re in public, it’s embarrassing and you want to make her stop. If you’re at home, it’s still annoying and you want her to knock it off.

The best thing you can do is stand there, hands folded, silent. When her little temper tantrum wears off, she’ll probably remember that sitting quietly gets her the attention, and reward, that she wants. It can be annoying, frustrating, even infuriating, to wait for that moment. But it’s worth it.

Let the dog decide

If we “make” our dog behave, by holding their collar or tightening the leash, we’re giving them exactly what they want – our complete attention. We’re reacting to them, instead of waiting for them to choose better and get rewarded for good behavior. Waiting for your dog to “see the light” can be a painful process. But it’s worth it. We teach our dogs how to get what they want, instead of letting the dog manipulate us.

It’s really, really hard not to snatch your hand away when your dog starts nibbling at it to get the treats. (The “Whatcha gonna do?” game in Book 4: Impulse Control.) But the motion of lifting your hand looks, to your dog, like you’re engaging in the game he chose. Yelling at your dog for barking is “playing” the barking game, seen from the dog’s perspective.

Think, don’t react

Doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But sometimes it’s the only way to show our dogs how to choose better. Pay close attention to your own reactions to your dog’s silly/obnoxious behaviors. Are you inadvertently encouraging it? Do you engage with your dog when he’s acting the fool? 

Try ignoring it, instead. If he’s really being obnoxious, walk away. If he persists, go into the bathroom and lock him out. When he quiets down and his brain engages again, reward it! Play a rowdy game of tug, or fetch! Play on your terms, not when your dog dictates.

Right and wrong are different

Show your dog what right and wrong look like. Right should be full of energy, treats, toys, play, and fun. Wrong should be dull. Not nearly as much fun as being good.

As soon as your dog chooses wisely, reward, reward, reward! Making good choices is the foundation of game-based dog training. Love it when you see it!

Are you boring your dog? Be better than SQUIRREL!

You have to be better than squirrel to stop boring your dog.

Are you boring your dog? Gaining their interest isn’t hard – you just have to know how. Dogs aren’t aliens. But they also aren’t people. The thoughts going through their heads aren’t worries about money, family, job, health, etc. Dogs think about food, comfort, play, and SQUIRREL!

To compete with SQUIRREL!, you have to stop boring your dog. If the most interesting thing in your yard is the wildlife, you’re not going to get the attention you need and want. If your dog is always on the lookout for critters when you’re out walking, you’ll never be able to achieve loose-leash walking – Book 3: Let’s Go For a Walk. 

Be fascinating

For better or worse, there are things that people can’t tear their eyes away from. Construction sites. Wrecking sites. Fireworks. Train wrecks. Depending on your personal interests, your attention is grabbed by performances ranging from football to ballet, gymnastics to roller derby, dressage to rodeo. You need to find a way to be your dog’s must-see TV, two minutes at a time.

It’s not that tough. And the more you try it, the easier it’ll be. You know which toy is your dog’s favorite. What if you snatched it up and ran away? You would have your dog’s undivided attention for the duration of the chase.

Take advantage of that! Come to a stop, spin around to face your dog, stick out your hand and ask for a “Touch!” Good dog! Reward with a game of tug, or fetch. Or turn around, run off, and do it again!

Not for endurance

We may be enthralled by a two-hour symphony performance, but dogs’ attention spans are limited. Try to do anything for too long and they’ll lose focus and wander off. Training games aren’t endurance events. The marathon you’re running isn’t today – it’s the duration of your dog’s life. 

Finding an extra hour in your day is almost impossible for most people. But it’s easy to find two minutes to play with your dog. And if those two minutes are all you have, you need to get your dog’s attention and focus quickly.

Build value in focus

One of the simplest and easiest ways to get your dog’s attention is to call his/her name and “pay” every time he looks at you. Every single time – call, look, reward. The goal is to make looking at you one of the most valuable things your dog can do. If/when you get instant, enthusiastic attention every time you call, you can randomize giving a reward. Until then – every single time. Call, look, reward. 

For your dog, looking at you should always be one of the best things ever. When he/she looks, tell your dog what an amazing creature he/she is! The bestest, most brilliant, gorgeous creature ever. And it’s true. Just look at those puppy-dog eyes and that sweet expression. 

Attention seeking

What if your dog doesn’t respond when she hears her name? Did you get an ear twitch? Or is she single-mindedly focusing elsewhere and determinedly ignoring you?

That’s just rude. You wouldn’t put up with that kind of disrespect from people. Don’t tolerate it from your dog. But don’t get mad. Get creative! Blow on her ears! Goose her (gently)!! Slap a toy on the ground behind her – then take off! As soon as you get her attention, praise and reward! 

Stop boring your dog!

When you’re home with your dog, does he/she “check in” with you every once in a while? Most dogs do, unless they’re asleep. And even when they are snoozing, either they’re in touch, or rousing periodically to look for you. When you see it happening, make eye contact, and connect with your dog. Just a simple “good dog!” or “you’re so cute!” will reinforce your bond. 

It would also be a great time for a little 2-Minute Training game. Your dog will think you’re amazing if you’re always ready to play!

Dog Training Game: Get it! / Leave it!

Dogs are binary creatures. It’s yes or no. Black or white. On or off. Get it! Or Leave it! Dogs don’t have shades of gray that let them process things like “just this once,” or “sometimes.”

Once you really understand this, dog training is much easier. You’re actually not tormenting them by holding dogs to strict criteria. You’re really being precise, clear, and explaining in a way your dog will understand. And giving him/her an opportunity to get things absolutely right!

Dogs don’t like “sometimes,” or “maybe.” If you let your dog do something sometimes, it’s confusing for the dog. 

Stop and go

There are times that you want your dog to do something, then stop doing it. That’s where the “Get It! / Leave It!” game comes in handy. You may want your dog to “fetch” keys you dropped. That doesn’t mean he/she needs to grab your keys every time.

This is a game to play when you’re tired and really don’t feel like being super energetic. You can sit in a chair or on the couch to play this game, with your dog in front of you. All you need is a bowl of treats and your dog.

Teaching Simon "get it leave it" with the "Whacha gonna do?" game.

Take about 10 treats and put them in your hand, palm up, facing your dog. When your dog is sitting politely in front of you (remember your “Whacha gonna do?” game? from Book 4: Impulse Control.) take a single treat from your palm and give it to your dog as you say “Get It!” As your dog is munching, especially if he/she took it nicely, you can say “Good Get It!”

Do this about five or six times. Just hand your dog a treat and say “Get It!” and praise for showing good manners. 

The hard part of Leave it!

For the next treat, take it from your open palm and say “Leave it!”, closing your hand around the treat. Do not let the dog get the treat, even if you have to endure some nibbling. Most dogs will test to see if you’re serious about it. When your dog backs off, say “Good Leave It!” 

Put that treat back, choose a different treat, and start again with “Get It!” “Good Get It!” 

Randomize the number of “Get Its” before trying another “Leave It!” but be sure that the “Gets” far outnumber the “Leaves.”

Why a different treat?

What’s the point of discarding the treat your dog had to “Leave?” Picture using the “Leave It!” when you’re out on a walk and your dog encounters goose poop. When you tell your dog “Leave It!” it means he/she is never supposed to go near that particular thing. And that by “Leaving It!” he/she will be heavily rewarded many times with even better stuff from your hand.

Imagine your dog knowing this behavior so well that he/she never again tries for the goose poop. Instead, your dog will make sure you see that icky stuff, notice she’s virtuously ignoring it, and she expects to be rewarded. It’s a scenario that will play out if you practice your “Get It!” and “Leave It!” game.

Final exam

When you think your dog understands “Get It! / Leave It!” it’s time to put them to the test. The mentor who taught us this game, many years ago, went to the ultimate extreme. He picked up McDonald’s french fries on the way to class and scattered them all over the floor. Our dog-and-handler “final exam” was to walk across that floor with the dogs ignoring the fresh, delicious fries. And every single dog was able to do it.

Don’t start with french fries. Expand your dog’s understanding by dropping the treat on the floor instead of keeping it in your hand when you say “Leave it!” When your dog succeeds most of the time, you can move on to other items to drop, or get, and other rooms and places to work in.

Most useful command

“Leave It!” is certainly a more-used command than “Get It!” in most of our lives. It can even save your dog’s life, depending on what he/she found lying around. 

Practice the “Get It!” too. And if you teach your dog the names of different objects, people will be amazed when you tell your dog to “Get the keys!” and he does!

Talk to your dog

Your dogs’ ears are better than yours. Also (probably) cuter. And softer. They work great. Use them. Talk to your dog!

This week for the first time since the pandemic shut down our dog training club, we held classes. It started out really, really quiet. We think it may have been that people were embarrassed to talk to their dogs in public. After a year and a half of talking only to their dogs, they may have thought that it wasn’t okay in public.

Always talk to your dog

Aside from the fact that dogs can understand hundreds of words if we bother to teach them, it’s only polite to let the other person in the room know what’s going on. 

The most egregious offenses in class were people, given the “Forward!” command by the instructor (Hope), took off without saying anything to their dogs! In most cases, they didn’t even “check in” to make sure their dogs were paying attention!

We know that most people just want their dogs to exhibit good manners when walking. Competition obedience isn’t on everyone’s radar. That’s perfectly fine. But you still need to let your dog know when you’re starting, turning, stopping, or changing speeds! If you were walking with a human friend, and you’re the one who knows where you’re going, don’t you routinely say “we turn here” or “it’s just ahead on the right”?

And it’s important to let your dog know that they’re doing a good job. Praise is one way to reward your dog – so speak up!

Letting dogs know what’s up

The sins were just as numerous on the flip side of the coin. We were appalled to see how many leashes got tight and dogs were dragged around by their necks rather than being given a chance to think and react. 

Especially the first time doing something, or just learning something, or coming back after a long time away, dogs need time to process what’s being asked of them. If your dog hasn’t heard “Sit!” in a while, it may take a moment to sift through the brain cells and figure out what you’re talking about. Give your dog a chance to “answer” when you talk to your dog.

Everybody does it

It was interesting to see that almost everyone in class was exhibiting the same bad behavior, hauling on their dogs without talking to them first. Both the owners of the German Shepherd and the Chinese Crested – the long and short of our class.

If you’re training in class, it’s understandable to be a little shy about babbling excitedly to your dog. It took a long time before we were able to get over it. It helped to realize that absolutely no one in the class is paying any attention to you – they’re all occupied with their own dogs. And any spectators will be too busy watching the dogs to listen to a word anybody says.

Use your happy voice

Talk to your dog - he'll look at you and you'll have a happy working dog.

By all means practice talking to your dog in your 2-Minute dog training games at home. Prove to yourself how well it works. Try one session being quiet, and when you do speak, do it either harshly or in a monotone. Then, later the same day, try playing exactly the same game, but talking happily and excitedly to your dog throughout. 

We guarantee your dog will do better and learn more in the second session. We play dog training games for many reasons. One of the most important ones is having fun with our dogs. And they love the sound of our voices.

So much dog training, so little time

Feeling overwhelmed by all there is to teach your dog? There’s so much dog training to do! Especially if you have a puppy or a newly-adopted dog. There’s just so much! From the daily routine, to potty-training, to leash walking, to jumping, barking, etc. The list goes on and on.

You don’t need to “fix” everything all at once. There’s no schedule, or deadline. Your relationship with your dog, your partnership, will grow over time and whatever issues you have will melt away as your dog’s understanding grows and strengthens.

Pick just one thing

Another consideration is how very tired you are with a new dog in the house. A new addition sucks up a lot of time and energy – without accomplishing much of anything. Or having much fun. We understand. You’re not alone.

And that’s why it’s vital to carve out those two minutes to have fun with your dog. Everyone can find two minutes to play! It doesn’t have to be the same time every day. Or the same place. 

All you have to do is decide. Play a dog training game around the last thing your dog did that was annoying. Or naughty. Or wonderful! You can also play games to reinforce good behavior.

It gets done – one little bit at a time

We come from a long and not-so-proud heritage of pack-rat personalities. We never reached hoarder status, but there was too much stuff. To turn things around, we just decided to do it. It’s probably the origin of 2-Minute-Trainer. Because we grabbed a timer, set it for 15 minutes, and tackled whatever mess was in front of us.

You can decide to play training games with your dog, too. You won’t “fix” everything in a day. It takes time. And the progress is incremental. But one day you’ll look around and realize – we did it! Our home was tidy! And you’ll look around one day, sooner than you think, and realize you have the world’s best dog!

So much dog training to do, but start with one annoying behavior at a time.

Don’t even try for big chunks. Nibble away! If there’s a specific behavior you want to change, picture the change and parse it into the smallest possible steps. Work one step at a time, and soon they’ll all be done. Remember the Lao Tzu proverb: The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step. 

So much dog training

All dog training, even little Puppy Push-ups games, address the three things we all want: better manners, increased trust, and expanded confidence in our dogs. When you have no ideas for today’s game, fall back on something your dog already knows and loves. 

If you want to change it up, do it in a different room. Or outside. Just know that every single 2-Minute Training session you spend with your dog will have lasting effects. The relationship between you and your dog will grow geometrically as you play dog training games.

Dog decision making – help your dog choose wisely

Dogs, like people, are always making decisions. Which toy should I play with? Is this the best chewy toy in the house? Which bush should I pee on? She called me – should I “come?” The crux of positive reinforcement training is guiding dog decision making. Building the understanding that what you want, and what your dog wants, are the same thing.

We’ve talked before about dogs not caring about being “good.” They don’t even know what it is. Dogs will always do the “thing” that’s most valuable to them. It’s our job to build value in good decisions.

For example:

Fran’s 2-year-old Boston Terrier Simon doesn’t always love Hope’s 6-year-old French Bulldog Torque. For unknown reasons, he just rubs him the wrong way sometimes. 

We watch the interactions between the two very carefully. During supervised play times, Simon wears a leash that Fran hangs onto. It’s not to drag him back, it’s to prevent contact. Torque will try and get away when Simon loses his temper. The leash is to make sure Simon doesn’t follow. 

When Simon’s body language tells us that he might be taking umbrage, Fran calls him to her. She’s been doing this consistently. Last night we were delighted to see him make a wonderful decision. Simon was losing his cool, his hackles started to raise, he was staring at Torque. We saw it and Fran started calling Simon in a happy voice – one that he knows always results in rewards. 

He thought about it. You could see him pause. And then he ran over to Fran, away from Torque, and was completely and thoroughly praised and rewarded.

Make it worthwhile

Simon is always rewarded for making good decisions.

Would Simon have made the same, good decision, if it didn’t “pay?” He could very well have gotten supreme satisfaction from going after the other dog. He didn’t because he knew that Fran would praise him, play with him, and give him treats for going to her. It was more rewarding to Simon to be doted on. Good dog decision making, Simon!

That’s why you never call your dog to you for something he/she doesn’t like. If your dog hates getting a bath, go and get him/her. Don’t try to fool your dog, either. Don’t call him/her into the bathroom, give a treat, and then shove him/her in the tub. Not fair. 

Never too late for training good dog decision making

Positive reinforcement, and 2-Minute-Trainer training games, are all about guiding our dogs into making the best choices. Being a “good dog” may not be something dogs understand. Getting rewarded is speaking their language. Dogs will repeat behavior that’s rewarded. They’re smart enough to discard what doesn’t work for them.

Your attention, treats, and play are all rewards your dog will try to get. When you witness your dog making a good decision, be sure he/she is lavishly rewarded. You can’t “spoil” your dog with praise, treats, or playtime. 

There’s no such thing as too much praise for good behavior. If you slack off, or let good dog decision making go unnoticed, you’ll lose it. Dogs are wonderful, adaptable creatures. They’re also in the “what have you done for me lately” camp. If something that used to get rewarded no longer does, they’ll stop doing it.