Category: behavior

How to get your dog to calm down and relax

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It’s the very first thing we “work” on with puppies – get your dog to calm down. Just like human children, puppies don’t really know when they’re over-tired. They’ll fight taking a nap, just like a toddler. You can watch their eyelids droop, but they just won’t relax. As they get more and more tired, puppies can get increasingly frantic. And your frustration grows. The dog needs to nap. And you need to grab a shower and a meal!

Puppies are little tyrants. If you allow it, they’ll take over every aspect of your life and schedule. They’re selfish little beasts, only caring about their own needs and wants. 

Frankly, if puppies weren’t so adorable your heart melts, there’d be no excuse for them.

Start with the basics

“Sit and accept praise” is one of the very first behaviors we teach with a new dog or puppy in the house. When the new addition gets you up at four in the morning and, after a potty break, decides it’s play time, you need a way of letting him/her know that’s not the way it’s going to be. 

Many trainers would have you stuff the puppy in the crate, maybe even cover it, and wrap a pillow over your head to muffle the complaints. The ear-piercing, howling misery. 

But we’re not believers in letting a dog or puppy cry itself into exhaustion. The dog doesn’t learn anything from that. Even at four in the morning, it’s time for a session of “Sit And Accept Praise.”

Not the most fun training game

Our very first dog training mentor preached this exercise, even before positive reinforcement was a “thing” in dog training. He is a good and wise man. 

This is probably the only 2-Minute-Trainer game that’s not really much fun for either of you at first. But it is part of the deal we make with our dogs. They get what they want when we get what we want. It’s a simple bargain, but an important one.

How Sit & Accept Praise works

Sit & Accept Praise is easy. With your dog wearing a collar, have him sit next to you. On the couch if it’s allowed. You get on the floor if it’s not. (As an aside: we don’t understand why people have upholstered furniture their dogs aren’t allowed to get on. But we think dogs are more valuable than any “stuff.”) (By the way – we also outline Sit & Accept Praise in our Puppy Basics. If you missed that, it’s no big deal, but you might want to get the free download for more great information.)

Sit and accept praise is the best way to get your dog to calm down.

Your dog may not want to sit next to you. That’s why he/she is wearing a collar. With your arm and elbow holding the dog at your side, thread a couple of fingers through the dog’s collar. Make sure your position is comfortable and that, if the dog fusses and moves, your fingers won’t bend awkwardly. The game may not be the most fun, but it also shouldn’t  hurt either one of you.. 

Then sit there, petting the dog with the other hand and speaking softly to him/her. Let your dog know that he’s a wonderful dog, and a good dog, and the handsomest dog in the world. If you’re a reader, read your book out loud. Just so your dog hears your voice being calm and gentle. 

That’s pretty much it. It’s easy to get your dog to calm down with this technique.

Dog’s not having it

When you feel the dog start to relax, you can ease the tension in the arm holding the dog at your side. Keep talking and petting. An occasional treat is fine, too. As long as the dog doesn’t get too excited by it. 

If, when you lessen the hold, your dog struggles, just go back to where you were. In time, your dog will learn that you mean it, it’s time to relax.

It may take more than one repetition for the message to get through. When your dog does relax, even lie down, give him/her a cue word that identifies the action. We use “relax,” so when our dogs’ tension eases, “good relax,” “nice relax, buddy,” “what a good relax.” That way, throughout the dog’s life, we can tell him to “Relax” and he knows what to do.

Stay positive in dog training – results come in time

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It’s extremely rewarding to see the results of your training. It’s sometimes hard to stay positive in dog training and have faith that you’re making a difference. Lately we’ve had a couple of wonderful examples of how patience and positivity work. We’re changing lives, especially our own, with the power of positive reinforcement training.

By Simon, we think he’s got it!

Simon, Fran’s 2-year-old Boston Terrier is a nosey fellow. He has to check out everything that’s going on, and right in the middle is where he wants to be. Like most Bostons, he’s also incredibly friendly and wants to run up to everyone for overly-enthusiastic greetings.

Simon, demonstrating his jumping prowess. By staying positive, results come in time.
Simon, demonstrating his jumping prowess.

Our yard is surrounded by a four-foot chain-link fence. Our neighbor was out in his yard and Simon felt compelled to run over to say “Hi! Hi! Hi! Hi! Hi!” And repeatedly jump, bouncing off the fence at about 3.5 feet. 

The neighbor is a very tolerant man, and accustomed to living next door to dogs, so he ignored Simon entirely. Which gave Hope the opportunity to get close, say Simon’s name, and instantly reward when he turned to look at her. We could see him think about resuming the jumping, greeting craziness, but he didn’t. We could actually see him decide. Paying attention to Hope was more rewarding than greeting the man. 

Laying the foundation

Simon’s good choice was something we’ve worked on forever. He’s finally becoming mature enough to make choices. Essentially, Simon is an adolescent with all the decision-making skills of human teenagers. And since he was a puppy, he’s been rewarded for choosing us over anything else. 

Our dogs are always rewarded for coming to us. Always. Every single time. Because we always want them to come to us when called. If they’ve been incredibly naughty, we don’t call, and we don’t say their names. We go to them for the ensuing discussion. Our dogs’ names and “Come!” always have to be linked to something good. (See “Get your dog to come dashing to you every time.“)

We always want to stay positive in dog training. There’s good reason for this. We always want our dogs to come running happily to us when called. Especially if there’s a skunk in the yard. Or the handyman left the gate open.

Positive works on people, too!

It occurred to us this week that the “stay positive” message has worked in our retail life, too.

When our current mail carrier first came on the route, he was not communicative, did his job reluctantly, sometimes didn’t bother showing up, and was generally surly and unpleasant.

Over the course of months, that’s changed. He now comes into our shop with a smile on his face, a friendly greeting, and looks out for us. He even went out of his way to learn a new way of using his equipment to help us get our outgoing packages into the postal system computer faster.

Also a dog person

All we did to change things around was stay positive. Regardless of his demeanor, we greeted him with a smile. Thanked him for everything he did. Gave him treats for his dog. Some days it wasn’t easy. Especially when he “forgot” to come back to pick up our outgoing mail, and we had to rearrange our schedules to go to the post office. 

Over the course of months, our mail carrier has learned that coming into our shop will always be a pleasant experience. We’re never going to yell at him, never take our bad mood out on him, and always going to be happy to see him – even when he’s bringing monthly bills.

You may get the impression that we’ve “trained” our mail carrier to be the service person we wanted. You would be right. And all through our determination to stay positive.

You can bank on your dog training games

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Can you bank on your dog coming when called? Every time? In any situation?

Can you bank on your dog's recall if there's a skunk?

Let’s set up a scenario. You’re in the back yard with your dog after dark. You both hear a sudden rustling from the cluster of daylilies in the corner. 

You catch a glimpse of a black critter with a long white stripe down its back and scream “Razzmatazz, COME!”

Does he? 

Tilting the odds in your favor

In this case, which was very real, Razzy came bounding over. Hope grabbed him and ran for the house. The skunk was gone by the next time we went into the yard.

Were we absolutely sure that Razz would obey in the face of a fascinating and smelly distraction? No. But we tipped the scale in our favor by playing dog training games.

Money in the bank

Every time you reward your dog for making a good decision, like “Come!” you’re tilting the scale in your favor. Your dog will remember that “Come!” always results in something good happening. 

Building up that account of “good stuff” lets you get away with the occasional time when you don’t have a reward handy, but you really need your dog to obey. Like when there’s a skunk in the yard.

Razz did get a bunch of treats when we got inside.  And our eternal gratitude for being such a good Griff. 

But the account was depleted just a bit. That happens whenever the payoff isn’t immediate. Which means you have to build it back up, rebalance the scales, to make sure the account is full next time you need it.

Always pay your dog

Many people look to lessen or stop rewarding their dogs “after they’re trained.” There is no “after.” Dogs are always learning and paying attention. If you stop rewarding a behavior, the dog will stop doing it. See “Food is dog training currency.”

Wouldn’t you stop going to work if there was no paycheck? Or, even worse, if it bounced?

Every training game you play, every reward you deliver, is money in your dog training account. If you have to “spend” that balance to be safe from the skunk, be sure to replenish the account on a regular basis.

If you do, you can always bank on your dog.

Positive reinforcement works

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This week we are grateful to the people and government of the great state of Ohio for proving that positive reinforcement works.

It wasn’t an experiment, and it wasn’t dogs that proved it. (Although our dogs prove it every day, through our commitment and philosophy.) People respond to positive reinforcement, consciously. It’s a shining example of the power of this method of training.

Deadly serious

If you watched the news this week you know that the rate of vaccination against COVID 19 has been dropping. Officials, both medical and governmental, around the nation have been scrambling for ways to get more people to overcome vaccine hesitancy and roll up their sleeves.

Getting a vaccine so you’ll be protected against a potentially deadly disease sounds like pretty good motivation. But it wasn’t enough.

Protecting your friends, loved ones, and people who you come into contact with is another good reason. Again, not enough.

Being able to ditch the mask, go places, and do things is an excellent reason to get vaccinated. And it still wasn’t enough.

We’d equate it to giving your dog a pat on the head and saying “Good dog!”

What worked

The State of Ohio got creative. 

The state is sponsoring five $1 million dollar drawings open to adults getting the first dose of vaccine. Sign-ups increased by 28%.

Ohio is also offering a chance at one of five full-ride scholarships to any in-state college or university for teens age 12-18 getting a first dose of the vaccine. Vaccine sign-ups skyrocketed by 94% among 16 and 17 year-olds in the state. (Here’s the Ohio Department of Health’s release about the success of the program.)

This is positive reinforcement. This is how people react to the possibility of a great reward.

Pay your dog

Simon is proof that positive reinforcement works.

Yes, your dog loves you and will “work” for you. A pat on the head and “atta boy!” is nice. If you want enthusiastic, eager attention and active learning, pay your dog. The better the reward, the better the response. You’ll find the statistical proof in Ohio.

Dog manners for greeting visitors

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Is your dog a nut job when company comes? Do you wish your dog had better manners for greeting visitors?

It’s been especially tough during the pandemic – not many people were open to visiting. Many dogs either forgot the manners they had, or never had a chance to learn polite greetings. You can turn that around, with some basic training games to teach your dog what to do when the doorbell rings.

Doorbell behavior

It’s always easier to teach something “to” do, rather than “not to” do. If your dog learns that the doorbell, or a knock on the door, is a trigger for a specific behavior, you’re giving them a familiar goal. 

You won’t necessarily be able to stop your dog from giving a startled bark. A doorbell is meant to alert the household that someone has arrived. What a learned behavior will achieve is making the aftermath of the doorbell sound into a familiar routine.

Teach “Place”

Booker in his "place!"

If space and your routine allow it, have a dog bed or mat in view of the door. When you teach your dog “Place” (2-Minute-Trainer.com Book 1) your dog will know that his/her “job” is to run to the bed when the doorbell trigger sounds. It’s really an ideal scenario. Your dog will be able to see what’s going on, you’ll know where your dog is, and whoever is at the door will be able to deliver your pizza without fuss. 

If you’re not in the habit of getting deliveries, set up the scenario with a friend or family member when your dog has mastered “Place,” and will dash to the bed or mat as soon as you say your cue word. It doesn’t have to be “Place.” If a different word comes more naturally to you, by all means use it and teach that word to your dog so that he’ll develop better dog manners for greeting visitors.

Choose a different behavior to “do”

One of the biggest obstacles in teaching dog training is getting people to change from the “don’t” words to the “do” words. It’s natural to tell your dog “Off!” when she’s jumping on your friend. (Never “Down!” – that means lie down. Each word has only one meaning for your dog.) 

But it’s not helpful. It doesn’t give your dog anything to do. “Stop” doesn’t mean anything to dogs. She’s doing lots of stuff – walking, jumping, sniffing, licking, etc. What do you want her to do?

It takes time and conscious thought to change the “stop doing that” into “Sit!” or “Touch!” Giving your dog a task to perform, one that’s familiar and is always rewarded, if more likely to be successful. 

Just like kids

If you’ve ever witnessed, dealt with, or been with squabbling children, it’s a very similar situation. We’re convinced it’s how the vast majority of “road trip games” came into being. Giving them a task, like license plates to look for, is more effective than saying “Stop touching each other!” It separates the children to look out their own windows, and occupies their minds. Do the same for your dog and manners will improve!

Being good is not a dog goal

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Your dog doesn’t care whether he’s “good.” Good is not a dog goal. Dogs have no “higher purpose” or ambition in life. They have no “moral fiber” because it’s just not a dog thing. Right and wrong, good and bad – those are people things. Dogs don’t care.

What dogs really care about 

Simon cares about playing. Good is not a dog goal for Simon. His goal is to play more, and get more treats.

Dogs do care about some things: you, food, comfort, toys, playing. All of those are tangibles. We don’t know what dogs actually think about, but we’re pretty sure it’s not good and evil. 

It’s also a big stretch to attribute “spiteful” tendencies to dogs. So many people think their dogs act out when alone due to “spite” or “revenge.” Not true. Dogs act out either because they’re suffering from separation anxiety, or because the impulse to act is more rewarding than not. Dogs always do what they find most rewarding. 

No difference between good and bad

Let’s say the dog is craving attention. She knows you fuss when she turns over the wastebasket. She’s going to turn over the wastebasket to get your attention. That’s a dog equation. Attention is all good – no difference between positive and negative. The nebulous concept of good is not a dog goal.

“I shouldn’t turn over the wastebasket because Mom told me not to” is a people thought. Dogs don’t really look into the future, or recognize consequences of their actions. A classic example is the dog who’s punished when the owner discovers a “mess” on the floor. Punishing the dog after the fact doesn’t teach the dog not to mess in the house. It teaches the dog that bad things happen when Mom discovers the mess. Therefore: hide the mess. Which is later discovered behind the couch.

Being good is not a reward

For people, knowing you’ve done the “right” thing, even in difficult circumstances, is satisfying and rewarding. For dogs, not so much. We’re constantly reminding people to “Pay Your Dog!” When your dog does make a good decision – let him/her know. Every single time. 

The “pay” doesn’t have to be food. Playing with a toy, a vigorous scratch behind the ears, sincere praise all work, depending on the situation. Let your dog know that you like what he’s done – even if all he’s doing is sitting quietly while you’re busy working from home. Take the time to reward “good” behavior.

True dog goals

Your dog doesn’t care about “good.” He cares very much whether you pay attention. If you pay extraordinary attention to the behaviors you like, you’ll see more of them. 

It takes conscious thought to praise your dog for doing stuff you like. If your high-alert dog finally lets a leaf blow down the street without comment, it’s easier to just appreciate the quiet than to get up, get a treat, and “mark” the behavior. But if you don’t – how does your dog know it was “good?” 

Clearly communicate “good” to your dog and she’ll find it more rewarding every time. It’s not easy to remember, but it’s worth it. (We’ve talked about clarity before, and it’s still important!)

It’s even harder to ignore the stuff you don’t like. It’s upsetting when you realize that, despite what you’ve tried so far, your dog still doesn’t understand. But if you only “mark” the naughty stuff, that’s what you’ll see more of. That’s the way dogs think. 

Good is not a dog goal. Being happy is. You’ll both be happier with clearer communication.

Use what’s natural for your dog

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All dogs have better scenting ability than people. And all dogs are faster than humans. All dogs have the ability to learn new things throughout their lives. But some dogs are better than others at some things. What’s natural for your dog?

When people domesticated dogs and developed different breeds, dogs became specialists. Certain breeds of dogs became adept at specific tasks. Terriers are independent hunters who “go to ground” (dig) to find their prey. Scent hounds follow a trail. Retrievers get stuff. Herding dogs herd. It’s what they do.

That doesn’t mean that your Chihuahua isn’t capable of tracking a scent. It means that it’s not as natural a behavior for her as it is for a Bloodhound. 

Training games take advantage of what your dog does naturally

The most successful training games take advantage of your dog’s instincts. Use what’s natural to play games your dog will understand, enjoy, and succeed with.

Like what?

We know that Boston Terriers, like Boxers, use their paws a lot. It’s how the breed “Boxer” got its name, from the breed’s tendency to stand on their hind legs and “box” with their paws. Even if your dog isn’t one of these breeds, if he uses his paws a lot, turn it into a game. There are a bunch of tricks for this, including the classic “Shake,” and/or “High Five.” If you teach both of these, be sure your hand signals are very different so you don’t confuse your dog. 

It's natural for some dogs to use their paws. Torque is playing a paw game, tapping Hope on the leg.

Paw games work well for little games when you’re waiting around with your dog. If you’re in the waiting room at the vet’s office, you can play a paw game. Torque (Hope’s French Bulldog) uses his paws to tap her legs, alternating right and left. It’s another variation that works in tight spaces. 

What else?

Some dogs are definitely more vocal than others. If your dog is chatty, why not build it into a behavior that you can signal? You can even make a game turning on and off the sounds with different hand signals or verbal cues. 

Some behaviors can even turn into little skits – you can develop a dialogue, incorporating your verbal and hand signals. Perfect it, record it, and it may be the next TikTok sensation. What’s cuter than a dog seeming to understand and talk back?

They do understand

The part that you understand and many people don’t realize, is that your trained dog really does understand. She may not be able to “talk,” but dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words, if we bother to teach them. 

There’s a new product that teaches dogs to “talk” by stepping on programmable buttons. We’re not sure we want to hear what our dogs have to say all the time, but we know we want them to understand us. 

If your dog does something interesting, mark it, either with a clicker or a “good!” Chances are your dog will do it again. If you reward the behavior, then name it, it will become part of your dog’s repertoire and fun for both of you. Even when we’ve seen a “trick” a million times, it still makes us smile. See our tip on Trick Training – tricks are not stupid!

How to help dogs afraid of loud noises

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We helped Peanut the Mastiff, afraid of loud noises.

This week we were called upon to help a dog afraid of loud noises. It’s not your typical case. Peanut is a Mastiff. Not a toy dog, not a “lap dog.” Peanut weighs more than we do.

Peanut is about three years old now. We met him when he was a puppy, just twice as big as Hope’s French Bulldog, Torque. Peanut’s always been timid, but puppy class helped and he was doing well with consistent exposure to different situations.

Pandemic shut-down

And then the pandemic struck. Peanut and his family have had limited contact with the outside world for almost a year. For easy-going dogs, it’s probably not as critical an issue. For Peanut, it stopped his progress in its tracks. 

His owners are a lovely, active couple who make sure their dog gets plenty of exercise and goes for long walks daily. They even made sure he got out in the worst weather. On truly bad days, the husband would take Peanut out for a walk and, if they got too cold or it was too sloppy, they’d call for a ride to get home.

Which is where the issue with noises arises.

Two facets of a single problem

Peanut needs a ramp to get up into their car. They can’t lift him – he’s over 100 pounds. One day last week the ramp dropped away from the car and made a loud noise on the garage floor. Peanut was terrified. He wouldn’t go near the ramp again. It took them hours to convince him out of the car.

They just didn’t know how to help their dog. They replaced the ramp with a different one, but Peanut wouldn’t go anywhere near it. 

Wisely, they called for help. A single issue, the dog’s fear of loud noises, has two different training solutions. One to address the ramp issue. The second is changing Peanut’s noise phobia. 

To get Peanut to use a car ramp again, Peanut has to love the ramp. Now it’s a fear object, with all the terror of the noise itself attached to the ramp. 

To get Peanut over being afraid of loud noises, he has to learn to ignore them. 

Learning to love again

Peanut the Mastiff is afraid of loud noises and must learn to love his ramp.
This ramp is free-standing – you can read more about it at GollyGear.com.

The ramp aversion is the more immediate problem, since Peanut won’t be able to go anywhere if he won’t use the ramp. An added complication for them – Peanut has severe food sensitivities and is a lackluster eater at the best of times. Fortunately, he is toy-motivated and loves to play with his toys.

Since this is an intense situation, we’ve set some rules for Peanut. All of his toys, every single one, has been removed from the household and hidden in a bin only the people have access to. Several times a day, they take a toy and stand by the ramp. When Peanut puts a paw on the ramp, he gets to play tug with the toy and person. Only if he puts a paw on the ramp. 

What we’re doing is attempting to transfer the value of something Peanut loves (his toy) to something he avoids (the ramp). Everybody’s going to have to be patient. Overcoming fear isn’t fast. And Peanut’s fear may be more powerful than his love for his toy at first. Ultimately Peanut will learn to love the ramp – he’ll associate the best rewards with it. (Read more on this: https://2-minute-trainer.com/2020/05/01/all-behaviors-are-equal/)

When Peanut is stepping on the ramp with a single paw fairly consistently, the next step will be to wait for two paws. And reward with play. Then three, and four. Then walking consistently.

Small steps

Peanut’s owners may also face a problem when they move the ramp. Right now it’s in their family room while they address their dog’s fear of loud noises. When they make progress, it will have to move to the garage. And the process may have to start all over again. 

We’ve talked before about dogs not being able to generalize. Once people learn to use a spoon, all spoons “work” the same way, regardless of what they look like or where they are. That’s generalizing. Dogs don’t make the same mental leap. A ramp in the family room may not be the same as a ramp in the garage. 

Fear of loud noises

The other part of the issue Peanut’s owners need to address is their dog’s fear of loud noises. Contrarily, we don’t want Peanut to love noise. Instead, he needs to learn to ignore it.

In separate training sessions from his ramp game, his owners are going to make their household much louder. One of them will bang pots while the other plays tug with Peanut. Or yell across the house at each other. Or play loud music, or explosion recordings, or fireworks or thunder. If Peanut learns that noise is just a part of life, his life will be less fearful, more fun, and improve immensely. 

Get loud

If your dog is afraid of loud noises, try pairing noise with things your dog enjoys. If your dog is food motivated, it’s a little easier for you. Just play those loud recordings during your dog’s mealtimes. Even better if you feed by hand and ask your dog to do “stuff” during meals. 

Trying to turn around an established pattern may be difficult, but it’s not impossible. Take it step by step and change the fear into a trigger for something good and/or fun to happen. You and your dog will both be happier if you can overcome the fear of loud noises.

Get your dog to come dashing to you every time

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Booker is playing "keep away." He had not learned to come.
Booker playing “keep away.”

Do you have a dog who likes to play “keep away?” It’s frustrating and can be scary – especially if you’re in a heavy-traffic area.

You can get your dog to come running to you whenever you call. One of the best games for recalls (“come”) just turns “Keep Away” around! What do you think would happen if YOU were the instigator of this version of “Keep Away?”

Catch Me If You Can

This game asks that you act against every instinct you have. When your dog takes off running away from you, or dances just out of reach, everyone’s first impulse is to run after the dog, or try and grab him. It’s natural. And it’s wrong.

Instead, you’re going to work with the fact that your dog has exactly the same instinct. After all, both humans and dogs are predators. We share the “chase” reaction. So we’re going to use it.

Playing the game

In a controlled environment, where you know your dog can’t get away from you (indoors, or a fenced area), bring your leashed dog and have a pouch of really top-notch treats ready to use. If your dog is more toy than food motivated, bring the best tug toy your dog loves. If you can hide the toy so your dog doesn’t realize you have it, even better. We’ve been known to stuff toys up under our shirts if they don’t fit in a pocket.  

When you get to the safe spot, without saying anything to your dog, drop the leash and take off running away from him/her. If your dog isn’t paying attention, you can yell his/her name while you run away. 

Really run. No half-baked pretend running, or sideways running to keep an eye on your dog. You’ve made sure Fido can’t get away. All dogs are faster than we are. Get into the spirit of the game. Run!

As soon as your dog catches up with you, grab the dog’s collar with one hand and start shoveling treats into his mouth with the other. Or if you have that toy, whip it out and play tug. Celebrate!

A note about using toys as rewards: The reward is playing tug with you. It’s not getting the toy and playing by himself. Don’t drop or throw the toy. Keep hold of it and offer it to your dog for a game of tug. If you let your dog play by herself, you’ve undone all the good you just achieved. We’re establishing that you are a component of the reward. Without you, there’s no fun game.

Do it again

After a half-dozen treats (or so), or a minute of tugging, start the whole thing again. Take off running, away from your dog. When she catches you, reward with a jackpot of treats, or a game of tug.

Rinse and repeat

That’s all there is to it. Playing this game will teach your dog that coming to you is always a good thing. There will be treats, toys, and you!

You’ll find more fun games that will convince your dog that the only place he wants to be is with you in Book 2: Come!

It’s all about choice in dog training

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Dog training is up close and personal. You can’t do it remotely. And you shouldn’t let someone else train your dog. There are gadgets that are supposed to work – but those are tools you can use. Not people replacements.

Dealing with a bad dog owner

We got a call this week from a person looking for a “thing” that would stop her dog from jumping over her fence. She had no idea what she wanted,  she just wanted something that would do the “job” of keeping her dog in her yard. Her choice in dog training was not to do it.

She has two options:

  • A taller fence (her current one is four feet)
  • A leash, with her attached to the other end

She didn’t much like the options we offered. And highly resented the fact that tethering her dog in the yard is illegal. Not to mention highly dangerous for the dog, which is why it’s illegal. This person shouldn’t own a dog. 

Teaching takes time

If you want your dog to understand the boundaries of your territory, you have to teach your dog where the boundaries are. If you want your dog to stop jumping over the fence, you have to teach your dog it’s not a good choice. And you have to offer your dog a more rewarding option.

That’s the key phrase, and one we can’t emphasize enough. Dogs always do what’s most rewarding. They will, absolutely dependably, choose to do what makes them happiest. It’s up to us to teach our dogs that doing what we want is the best, most rewarding, most fun option. 

That’s dog training in a nutshell.

Pay your money, make your choice in dog training

Dog trainers often say that people get the dog they need, when they need it. If your dog has a behavior you don’t like, you have to decide whether you’ll become a better trainer or you live with the behavior. 

If your dog is a counter-surfer; you’re either right there whenever your dog is in the kitchen teaching better choices, or you leave nothing on the counter, ever.

If your dog jumps the fence; you put a long line on your dog and go out with him every single time teaching boundaries, or you get a higher fence.

Dog’s aren’t convenient

Booker could jump the fence. We made in choice in our dog training to go out with him.
Booker could jump over the fence. That’s why he never goes outside by himself.

We go outside with our dogs every time they leave the house. It’s not convenient. We’d rather stay on the nice cozy couch, trust them to “do their business,” and come home again.

But we don’t have robotic dogs. We have dogs that, without supervision; eat dirt, bark at the neighbors, bark at the neighbors’ dogs, bark at cars, and eat rabbit poop. To prevent all of those things, we’re right there. And when we see our dogs make good decisions, like glancing at the neighbor and looking back to us, we’re right there to reward that good choice to be quiet. 

Choices in dog training include the “battles” you choose to fight, and those you’d rather just manage. If your dog goes digging in the bathroom wastebasket all the time, we completely understand moving the wastebasket rather than dealing with the issue. Some things just aren’t worth the effort to train. (Here’s another post about that choice: https://2-minute-trainer.com/2020/03/24/set-up-for-success-no-more-counter-surfing/)

Along with that choice comes the realization that your dog is going to do some stuff that aggravates you and you’ve chosen to live with it. If that’s your decision, it’s also up to you not to get angry or yell when your dog does it. 

We have a saying for that: “Train, don’t complain.”