Category: 2-minute tip

Loose leash dog walking – curing the pull

Want to cure your dog of pulling on leash? Would you love to enjoy loose leash dog walking? It’s easier than you think. Stop giving your dog so much information.

Too much information

Think about it. If there is constant pressure on your dog’s collar (or harness), he or she has absolutely no reason to look for you, pay attention to you, or check on your whereabouts. Your dog knows exactly where you are and what you’re doing without a glance. You are, reliably, at the other end of the pressure.

That’s just one of the reasons retractable leashes are a bad idea. There is always, by design, pressure on the dog’s collar or harness. There’s no way to avoid it, unless the retractable’s lock is deployed. And if the lock’s always deployed, you’re just carrying a leash that’s huge, awkward, and heavy. Ditch those retractable leashes!

Keep some things to yourself

If, on the other hand, your dog isn’t getting any feedback from the leash, he or she will “check in” to see where you are and what you’re doing. And, if every check-in is rewarded, chances are your dog will do it more often. It doesn’t have to be a big thing. A simple “good boy,” or tiny treat is just fine. 

In this case treats would be better, because your dog has to come to you to get the cookie. We know it’s a natural reaction to meet your dog halfway to deliver the treat, but don’t. Let your dog come all the way back to you for the reward. It teaches your dog so many positive things. You’re the primary source for all good things. Staying closer to you means less distance to cover for treats. It doesn’t take much effort to get a reward. 

Breaking the pulling habit

If loose leash dog walking seems beyond your reach, take it in small steps. However long your dog’s been pulling, it may take equally long to break the habit. 

All dog walks can’t be training walks. There are lots of different kinds of walks with your dog: exercise walks, potty walks, training walks, gotta get out of the house walks. And training works best if that particular walk is short, focused on training, and no other behavior is allowed (including pee breaks!). To signal a training walk, you may want to have a particular outfit for yourself, and your dog, that lets him/her know what’s going on. Dogs do know the difference when you put on the jacket with all the pockets, or he gets to wear a different collar. 

Start right with a loose leash

When you have your dog hooked up on leash, some treats in your pocket, and a training walk on the schedule, have a plan. You’re probably not going to get much of anywhere the first session, if you even manage to get outside. 

Loose leash walking has not yet been attained.

Put on the leash. If it stays slack, give a reward. If you take a step and the leash tightens, stop. Don’t say anything. If your dog is behaving like a pulling fool at the end of the leash, ignore it. Stay quiet. At some point, your dog will realize that things aren’t going according to (his) plan. This is the moment that he may look at you. If he does, you’re allowed to say “Good Fido!” (Use your dog’s name, not Fido.) If he comes toward you, let him see you have a yummy treat in your hand. And he has to come all the way to you to get it. 

When your dog is close to you and the leash is slack, try taking a step or two. As soon as the leash tightens, stop. Wait for your dog to acknowledge you and come to you.

Remember – we said you wouldn’t be getting very far on this “walk.”

Quick on the uptake

Dogs are pretty smart. As soon as your dog figures out that you really mean it – that pulling isn’t going to be allowed any more, he/she will get on board. Every time you have a training walk, your dog will remember sooner, react faster, and come more quickly. They have to be convinced you’re serious. So be serious about the behavior. It will open up so many more possibilities for having fun on loose-leash walking with your dog. For more fun games to speed you on your way to loose leash walking with your dog, check out Book 3: Let’s Go For a Walk!

Only 2 emotions allowed in dog training

“There are only two emotions that belong in the saddle: a sense of humor and patience.” We saw this meme, pictured with a woman and horse walking away together. We loved it, and the note a friend posted with it: “The same for the end of a leash.”

If we equip ourselves with these two things only: patience and a sense of humor, there’s no limit to what we can do with our dogs. 

From the start – when you get your puppy – patience will serve you well, as in Puppy Basics: Calm Down!

Patience teaches us

Just by waiting, we can see how our dogs think and interact with their environment. It’s not always easy, and we don’t always have the time or opportunity to let them figure stuff out. But when we can, it’s worthwhile. 

To this day we battle with the temptation to “help” our dogs solve their problems. 

Teddy the French Bulldog - Hope needed a lot of patience in training him.

It was especially difficult not to help Teddy, Hope’s French Bulldog. He wasn’t much of a thinker, but he was extremely food motivated and loved chasing away any wildlife that wandered into our yard. 

One day he chased a squirrel and found himself “trapped” in a narrow section of the yard between the fence and the garage. It’s an area we keep the pooper scooper and bucket, so tight quarters. The tools were leaning against the fence, as always. The passage was narrow, but he’d gotten himself through there in the heat of the chase. 

When the squirrel was gone and Teddy was ready to resume his sniff patrol, he thought he was trapped behind the tools, and started whining. 

Hope started going to help, but her dog-trainer brain kicked in and she resisted the temptation. She had nothing pressing on the agenda, and a good supply of patience. 

Waiting is hard

So she looked at Teddy and said “You got in there, buddy. Figure it out. You can get out again.” Even though he probably didn’t understand a word of it, Teddy got the message that Hope was there, not angry, and that she wasn’t moving to “rescue” him.

It took a few minutes and the urge to “help” was powerful. Teddy was a whiner when he wanted something. And he’d learned through the years that Hope would go a long way to make it stop – whining makes her crazy. This time, it didn’t work at all. 

Success at last

Teddy made a few feints at wrong openings before he finally found the one he’d gotten through in the first place. He gained his “freedom” which he was happy about. He got something else, too. You could absolutely see how proud he was to have figured out the solution. His gait had a strut and his face wore a smile. So did Hope’s.

Dogs understand the bottom line

What’s the bottom line for your dog? What are the things that he or she values most? And how can you use those high-ticket items to shape the behavior you want?

The entire basis for successful, science-based, 2-Minute-Trainer dog training is a compact we have with our dogs: they get what they want when we get what we want. It’s the best deal anyone’s ever made. Our dogs understand what’s expected of them and know they’ll be rewarded, comfortable, and loved. And we have loyal, loving, well-behaved, and adorable companions.

Adding value for everyone

What things are dearest to your dog? Is it food? Food-motivated dogs are a pleasure to train. Gratification is almost instantaneous. 

Do toys and play rate highest for your dog? So much fun to be had by all with training games.

Humans and dogs both have a rating system for rewards. For most people, chocolate is more rewarding than Brussels Sprouts. Think about your dog’s preferences. One of ours adores celery – it’s a very high-value treat. When we really want him to pay attention, we have celery in our treat pouch.

Likewise, some toys are more important than others to toy-loving dogs. If you’re playing a training game, think about whether your dog will give up the toy to go back to the game, or if it’s so precious to him/her that he’ll lose interest in the game and focus instead on the reward.

Transferring the value

Simon has value for the balance disc - he gets lots of treats when he's on it.

You can use the things that your dog prizes make other “things” valuable. For example: we have our dogs work on balance and fitness on an inflatable balance disc. (A couch cushion can work just as well. For more on this, go to the post.) Whenever our dogs get up on that disc, they are rewarded. Every single time. That balance disc is one of the most valuable things in the house to every one of our dogs because they know its value.

From the dog’s perspective, it’s not the “thing.” It’s what happens when he interacts with the thing. 

Say you want to start the “put your toys away” game. Start with the “thing” that you want your dog to pick up. You can use any household item; a spatula, a paper towel tube, an empty plastic jar, whatever you want.

Put the thing down in front of the dog. When he looks at it, reward. And offer the reward close to the “thing.” In almost no time, the “thing” acquires value. Dog thinks: “When I look at it (touch it, pick it up, carry it) I get something great every time. I love that thing!”

Transfer the value

It works no matter what. You can add value to any object or place, just by consistently showing your dog it’s important. Dogs love us and want to please us, but they’re also sufficiently selfish to do what benefits them. Dogs will repeat behaviors that have value. That’s every dog’s bottom line.

Pack dog training debunked

“Pack” dynamics was all the rage in dog training a while ago. There are still some remnants of it around. The objective, for those who managed to avoid the nonsense, was that you should be the “Alpha” dog – and that the other dogs would naturally be subservient.

Our domestic dogs bear very little resemblance to wolves in the wild.
Our domestic dogs are nothing like wolf packs in the wild.

Research into how dogs learn and behave has put paid to this. Dogs in human households are nothing like wolf packs in the wild. Domestic dogs are dependent throughout their lives, and more like perpetual puppies than a mature wolf pack. Pack dog training is unproductive and archaic.

Pack dog training silliness

Recently we’ve seen some dog food commercials emphasizing the relationship between wolves and dogs. While we agree that dogs aren’t designed to be vegetarians, showing majestic leaping wolves morphing into domestic dogs isn’t apples to apples. Dogs and wolves may have common ancestry, but their similarities after thousands of years of domestication are minimal.

If you’ve been following a famous television dog trainer who advocates pack structure and talks about “calming” behaviors, stop it now. It won’t help your training to think you have to dominate your dog. The best and most effective dog training forges a partnership between you. It’s not somber, it’s fun. Rather than forceful and stern, good training is playful and fun. 

Go with what works

When we started in dog training, decades ago, there were lots of methods used that we now consider abuse. In obedience competition training, it was common to pinch a dog’s ear to get him/her to pick up a dumbbell. We’re sorry to admit we know of some people who still use it. 

It’s not necessary. And it’s certainly not fun, for either the trainer or the dog.  

Tango picks stuff up and puts them into a bin.
Fran trained Tango to pick his toys up and put them into a bin.

Our dogs pick up all sorts of stuff, carry the stuff around, and put it down where we want them to. And all we did to achieve it was play a game. Here’s how it goes:

“Pick up the thing” game

Get a bunch of treats, your clicker, and the “thing” you want your dog to pick up. 

Put the thing on the floor and stand by it. If your dog looks at the thing, click and treat. Do that three times. 

By the third time, your dog’s going to figure out that the “thing” gets him/her rewarded. You’ve added value to the “thing.”

When your dog “gets” this idea, ask for more. You don’t have to be quiet, still praise your dog for looking, but now save the treats for something more – touching the “thing” with his/her mouth. If your dog touches it with a paw, you can certainly encourage and praise. The treats should be “saved” for the actions that move the behavior forward – in this case we want the dog to pick up the thing.

That’s basically the sequence: introduce the thing and reward each step in the progression. Each dog’s steps may be different, but could include: look, sniff, lick, pick up. Then run away with the “thing” and show it off like a trophy as you run around!

If your dog does this, the impulse is to run after him and try to get it away. Instead, run with him, or away from him, encouraging your dog to come with you! If you’ve already gotten a box or bin you want the “thing” placed in, run over to that and encourage your dog to “drop” the thing. 

No domination here

In just a few short sessions, you and your dog will have a new game to play. And you both had fun learning it. If your ambition includes obedience, it’s even a useful game. And nobody got hurt doing it.

Training games make great dog pictures

Want to take great dog pictures? 

Turn “posing” into a training game!

Torque does not like having his picture taken.

If, like us, you have a dog that turns away every time a camera (or phone) is pointed at him, you know it can be challenging to get great pictures. Especially if, like ours, your dog is a dark color. 

We don’t know why Torque tends to be camera-shy, but he is. So when we want to take his pictures, we make it part of a training game. That boy is all-in for any training game!

Move around

When starting the “pose” game, the first step is to have your dog stay in place while you’re moving around. Ask for your dog’s best position (sit or stay). Grab a handful of treats. Then start moving! As long as your dog stays in place, go back and reward every couple of steps. When you run out of treats, use your dog’s release word, and done!

When your dog is comfortable with your movement, try carrying your phone or camera with you while you move. Fake (or really) take pictures, stopping your motion, clicking the shutter, then moving again. 

Get down

Down at Booker's level - a great picture.

We’re really short people, but we’re still much taller than our dogs. We’re even taller than our friends’ big dogs. The result is that most dog pictures are taken from above, and don’t show dogs’ real expressions. 

The answer is to get down to a level even with your dog’s head. Then your dog’s face will show a natural expression – which is the one you know, love, and want to keep forever in good pictures. 

The problem with getting down at your dog’s level is that it’s an unusual move for most people, and your dog won’t understand what you’re doing. If your dog is like ours, they’ll see it as an invitation to get up in your face and either lick, play, or have a “nutsy puppy” episode.

If this happens for you, make getting down to dog level part of the motion sessions. Your movement doesn’t have to be all standing up. Try crawling, kneeling, squatting and reward your dog for staying in place. 

Look at everything

Aside from dogs not staying still, the biggest obstacle to getting a good portrait of your dog is clutter. Before you ask your dog for the sit or down, check the area you want to take the portrait. Frame it in your phone and look at every part of the area. Are there verticals that will give your dog antennae? Is there something bright or distracting in the background? Either shift where you’re working, or remove the object.

Lastly and most delicately

People with girl dogs don’t have this particular issue, but for those of us with boys – no one wants to see your dog’s boy bits in every picture. Three-quarter poses are excellent for using front legs as visual blocks. Over the years, with mostly boy dogs, we’ve become adept at hiding bits and we know you can, too!

Does your dog need “dog friends?”

Does your dog need “dog friends?” We see lots of new dog owners on our social media groups wanting to get together so their new dogs can play. 

It’s not a bad idea, although there are some considerations to take into account. We’re not fans of “dog parks” for lots of reasons. The primary one is the lack of attention from other owners. They bring their dogs to the dog park, release them from the leash, and then socialize with other owners. All paying no attention to their dogs. Groups of dogs, especially if they don’t know each other well, tend to gang up on the new guy, or the smallest guy, or the most timid. 

Dog friends are great if they all play nicely.

Small gatherings

Small groups of people who are acquainted, especially if they have the same breed of dog, are a better idea. Because different breeds were developed for different “jobs,” different breeds’ play styles can vary widely. We see it in our own home. The Boston Terriers have a very different (and much noisier) idea of play than the French Bulldog. The Bostons seem to think “chase, tackle, yell, repeat” is the way to go. When we had two French Bulldogs, they’d lie in a bed and “mouth wrestle.” 

Together, they’ve developed a mash-up, which is loud, vigorous, and, in tight quarters, can take you out. It works for them.

Harmony at home

It’s important that all the dogs in a household get along. That circle should include extended “family” dogs. In ideal circumstances, if the dogs are healthy and sound, the best thing to do is let them figure it out for themselves. With careful monitoring at first, only gradually removing supervision over the course of time. Be sure all the dogs involved are able to “go away” when they’ve had enough. Puppies can be tiring, especially if you have an older or senior dog in the house. 

Other buddies

The only dogs we require ours to be friends with are our other dogs. They see other dogs all the time – out on walks, at obedience class, at agility class, at rally class, at competitions for all of it. And we want our dogs to notice and ignore.

Not everyone has the same objective. It may be that you want your dog to play with other dogs. That’s fine, as long as your dog doesn’t try engaging with every dog you see when you’re out and about. Think about the circumstances when and where play with other dogs is appropriate, and try to confine it. When you’re out walking your dog, your pup should be able to notice another dog and still be able to continue calmly walking with you. (Check out Book 3: Let’s Go For a Walk. Games in there will show you how!)

If your dog sees another dog and immediately goes into “play with me!” mode, it’s time to work on some attention behaviors. Try to scan the area and take note of other dogs before your dog sees them. Ask for attention and reward heavily when you get it.

With consistency, rewards, and praise, you should start to see your dog “check in” with you before going into “play mode.” It’s up to you when and whether your dog gets to play with other dogs.

If you want your dog to have dog friends, control the relationship just as you would with a human toddler. The dogs have to play nice, no bullying allowed!

3 Commands that can save your dog’s life

Absolute obedience isn’t really our thing with dogs. We want to have fun and play with our dogs. Some trainers get robotic precision from their dogs, but that’s not us.

Every rule has an exception. There are three (3) commands that we demand our dogs know cold. Because these three, in desperate circumstances, can be the ones to save your dog.

Most important: Come!

Come! is one command that can save your dog's life.

The most graphic personal example we have for this one wasn’t dire, but pretty darn serious. Quite a few years ago, before we were smart enough to get a motion-detecting light in our backyard, we had a critter visitor. Hope was out, after dark, with our Brussels Griffon Razzmatazz. Razzy was showing a lot of interest in something under the shelves on our patio. A pocket flashlight revealed telltale stripes of black and white.

Hope yelled “Razz, come!” 

In all honesty, until that day he’d never shown much interest in immediate compliance. There may have been a tinge of desperation in Hope’s voice – he dashed over to her, got scooped up, and she ran in the house. Skunking averted!

More common scenarios for having a good recall (Come!) would include:

  • outside door left open
  • unknown dog or person approaching
  • oncoming traffic

We know that many people aspire to walk their dogs off leash. It’s not something we encourage, but if it is your ambition, be sure your recall is reliable before you dare take a leash off. Practice in the largest, enclosed space you can find. Local tennis courts are a good option.

Just in case  your recall isn’t as good as you hoped, take some high-value rewards with you to practice. Be ready to pull out your dog’s favorite toy and run in the opposite direction. Chasing a dog never works – they turn it into a game of “catch me if you can.” Instead, run away and let your dog chase you.

For more fun games that will reinforce a solid “Come!” command, check out the 2-Minute Trainer Ebook 2: Come! 

Second: Stay!

All the dogs staying out of the entry way.

There’s a time to come, and time not to. If your dog has escaped from your yard and dashed across a busy street, luckily avoiding traffic, you don’t want to press your luck. Better to tell your dog to “Stay!” while you go to him. 

Even better, having a good “Stay!” when the pizza delivery person rings the bell and your dog doesn’t run out at all.

Or “Stay!” when Aunt Gertrude is maneuvering around the house with her cane or walker. The last thing she needs to worry about is breaking a kneecap falling over the dog. That happened to our cousin, whose German Shepherd was “helping” her find her way to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Stay is also great for vacuuming, bringing in groceries, taking laundry downstairs to the washer, bringing it back up from the dryer, etc. 

Third: Drop it!

Several years ago a neighbor or ours thought it was a good idea to put poison in his backyard shed to get rid of chipmunks. It wasn’t. Wildlife carried those sticks of poison all over the neighborhood. We found out about it when Hope’s first French Bulldog, Dax, picked one up in our own yard. 

Fortunately, Dax knew “drop it!” and did. Unfortunately, we hadn’t noticed for a couple of minutes and she spent a miserable day at the vet’s office getting her stomach pumped and medicine administered. She recovered and we had more time with her. 

If she hadn’t known the command – the outcome may not have been as good. Teach “drop it” by trading your dog one valuable item for another. Let your dog know something good is coming. Something even better than the thing she has.

Useful commands

There are few absolutes in dog training. For us, these three represent the ones all our dogs must know, and do, when we ask them.

Distract your dog from stress

Use your training games to distract your dog from stress!

A hand touch is a great behavior that you can do in a small space to relieve stress.

Ever been in a situation where your dog was upset? Thunderstorms? Vet visit? Something new in the house? If dogs are anxious, they don’t know what to do with themselves. They may whine, shake, hide, or bark uncontrollably. If you can distract your dog from stress, you’ll both be happier.

Ground them with known behaviors

When people need comfort, they surround themselves with familiar things – textures, smells, behaviors, etc. Familiar things are soothing. We know what to do, how to do it, what the consequences are, and how to react.

Dogs are a lot like us. They’re comforted by things they know. If you’re ready to play a fun, familiar game, you’ll be able to get your dog to focus on you. Instead of worrying about what’s going on “over there,” your dog will concentrate on you.

Persistence is key

When you’re using a game, or trick, as a distraction, make it one of your dog’s favorites. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque loves his “trick” of tapping on her legs with alternating paws. It’s a game they can play anywhere. All Hope needs is some treats.

In very stressful situations, it may take some doing to get your dog’s attention and focus on you. Be persistent! If Fido keeps looking over at the other dog in the vet’s waiting room, stand up and face that other dog. Ask Fido to look at you. Reward the attention – even if it’s only for a fraction of a second. That immediate praise and reward will remind your dog that you’re the source of all things wonderful!

Move around and remind Fido what he’s supposed to be doing. Play a recall game! Recalls (come!) don’t have to be long-distance. Even if it’s just a few inches, it’s still worth rewarding. 

Small spaces are also perfect for “tricks” like Simon’s “High Five!” (See last week’s 2-Minute Tip: “Pet Tricks Aren’t Stupid.”) The added bonus, aside from the distraction for your dog, is that your tension will lessen too. Don’t you always smile when you’re playing with your dog?

Biggest distractions ever

Our biggest training challenge is the dog next door. Chloe is a mean, old, loud dog who’s constantly left in the yard to fend for herself and find her own entertainment. Her major entertainment is charging at our dogs.

We like training in our own yard, separated only by a chain-link fence. And Fran’s Boston Terrier Simon loves Chloe. He thinks she’s playing a game. Running up and down the fence with Chloe is Simon’s idea of a grand old time.

As distracting as Chloe is, as much as Simon wants to “play” with her – Fran can train Simon in the yard. Because she’s proven to Simon that playing training games with her is even more fun than chasing Chloe. 

You are the best thing ever

The play-training bond you build with your dog will let you be the best thing ever to your dog, too. You’ll be able to distract your dog from whatever stresses you encounter. What if, when the next thunderstorm hits, you were able to calm your dog just by spending a few minutes playing games that remind her everything’s okay? Wouldn’t that be wonderful? 

Pick a favorite training game or trick to use as a “go-to” when anxiety hits. Build value in that game by:

  • playing it often,
  • rewarding heavily, and
  • stopping when your dog wants more.

Pull it out in stressful situations and see the difference in your dog’s stress level. Which can only help yours, too!

Pet tricks aren’t stupid

Stupid pet trick? Booker sits up for his treats!

Pet tricks aren’t stupid. Dog tricks may be just for fun and have no practical value on their own. But they’re the “recess” time of dog training – when you and your dog play together and have fun. 

Some dog behaviors are crucial: Come, Stay. 

Quite a few are important: Sit, Wait, Leave it, Walk Nice, Gentle. 

And then there are “tricks” that are useless in everyday life. And so much fun for both you and your dog.

Anything you want

The nice thing about “trick” training is that you don’t have to have anything special in mind. You don’t need any special equipment, just whatever you have around the house and your dog. And treats. Never forget the treats!

The inspiration can come from anywhere. We saw a video on social media of someone teaching her dog to use a baby’s stacking ring set. It was adorable and fun, so we thought our dogs could do it, too! 

All our dog learned to pick up the rings quickly. Stacking them on the pole? Not so much. For Tango, one of the issues was that the rings were bigger than his mouth – Brussels Griffons are big-mouth-dogs, but that’s volume, not size. So we got dive rings. All the dogs love playing the game now!

Is it useful? Not really. But it’s cute, it stretches their brains, works on their coordination. And all the dogs think it’s fun. And so do we. It was a tiny investment dollar-wise, and it’s been hours of fun, over time. 

And never forget that just a few minutes of brain-training is just as tiring as a half-hour of physical activity. When you have limited time, but you want to spend quality time with your dog, try trick training!

Stuff that’s lying around

Unless you’re completely minimalist, there’s always “stuff” around the house. We have workout “stuff” – so the dogs sometimes see a foam roller and learn to push it across the floor on their hind legs. 

There’s an empty wash basin that the dogs can use like a toy box to “put your toys away.” 

We’re big fans of the aisles at Five Below or a local dollar store. We’ve found “stuff” like a toy bass drum with a pedal that Booker’s become a rock star drummer learning. Kitchen utensils they can carry and put away. A little skateboard they learn to put one or two paws on to “hang eight.” The limit is your imagination.

A stool or little bench that your dog fits under is a good way to teach “crawl.” Spins, roll-over, beg, “say your prayers,” and dance don’t require any equipment at all. 

Play with your dog

Too many times we see people thinking that “play” is limited to just fetch or tug. Those are great games, but shouldn’t be the extent of play. There’s more to a dog’s life than walking, eating, running, and cuddling. They’re thinking, problem-solving, smart companions who deserve to have all kinds of fun with you!

Make comings and goings routine

Keys are part of comings and goings which are part of everyday life.

Comings and goings are a part of normal life. Everyone has “stuff” they need to do. 

Does your dog greet you with overwhelming enthusiasm when you come home? Every time? Even if all you did was take out the trash?  

Or maybe your dog starts to fuss when she sees you gathering your “stuff” ready to leave the house. We know of one case where the dog actually stood between the owner and the door.

That enthusiasm is adorable. Your dog loves you and wants to be with you. But being emotional about comings and goings can lead to issues like separation anxiety if you let it continue.

Kind of a big deal

If an owner makes a big deal out of leaving her dog – hugging, kissing, telling the dog “mommy will be home soon,” etc. chances are the dog will think that leaving is, in fact, a big deal.

It’s also a mistake when an owner comes home and the first thing they do is drop everything to hug their dog and say “mommy missed you so much.” 

Even if it’s true, as it is for many of us, it’s not a good idea to let the dog know that’s how you feel. If dogs could reason like people, they’d obviously ask why they weren’t invited along on the outing. Since they aren’t able to understand exactly what’s going on, a “normal” response is to pick up on the owner’s emotion and get emotional themselves.

What’s a “big deal” to you will also be for your dog. They may not be able to understand every word we say, but they have uncanny abilities to pick up on our feelings.

Make it matter-of-fact

Instead of making a production out of going out without your dog, decide on a routine. Try not to rush around the house gathering the items you’ll need. Instead, have a designated spot, ideally near the door, that you gather items like keys, phone, etc. 

The key to leaving without drama is not to conceal what you’re doing from your dog, but to make it so normal that the dog accepts it without fuss. 

When you’re ready, the last thing to do is to give your dog a special treat he only gets when you leave. In our house it’s a vanilla-yogurt-filled treat-dispensing toy that’s been in the freezer. Be creative when filling the toy – sometimes there’s a special treat of blueberries in the yogurt!

When our dogs see us reaching for their “we have to leave now” toys, they make mad dashes to their designated spots. If they could talk, the dialog would be:

“Where’s my toy? Thanks! See ya!”

Our dogs know we’re leaving. They just don’t really care. We like it that way.

Coming home 

We practice what we preach coming home, too. We walk in, matter-of-factly put on collars and leashes, and take the dogs outside. We may not even speak to them until they’ve “done their business.” It’s just a routine part of the day – no reason to get worked up about it.

When we come back in the house, a set of toys gets filled and popped into the freezer, so we’re always ready. 

Avoiding melodrama

One of the roots of anxiety is not knowing what to expect. If you build a normal routine into your comings and goings, your dog will know what’s going to happen. You’re going to leave. And then, after a good doggy nap, you’re going to come home. Every single time. Having a routine will let your dog recognize “normal” and regularize it.