2-minute tip Archives - Page 22 of 28

Don’t let your dog hide

It’s natural for people to protect small, young things. We have an instinct to take care of those more vulnerable. Don’t give in to it! Don’t let your dog hide!

Downsized dog

Hope is working now with a friend/student who has always had Sporting dogs; Weimeraners and Viszlas. She’s a bit older now and chose to “downsize” by getting a Miniature Poodle. It’s a wonderful choice for her, since Poodles are also Sporting dogs, originally bred as water retrievers. They’re also incredibly smart dogs.

Smart dogs will learn very fast what works for them and what they can get away with. If it works once, they’ll repeat it. If it keeps working, they’ll always do it.

Works for him

Our friend Sue, in addition to working with Hope, is also taking a pet-store puppy class with her four-month old Poodle Darwin. It’s the only current option, during the pandemic, for making sure her puppy is socialized to work with her in the presence of other dogs, people, and lots of distractions. It’s a good idea.

Sue was telling Hope how their class was going and reported that Darwin did great. He stayed under her chair and watched all the other, bigger puppies.

She was surprised when Hope let her know that was exactly the wrong thing to do.

Don’t let the puppy hide

It’s Sue’s first small dog and, like most adults, her first reaction is to take care of him and protect him from possible threats. But there was no threat – just other puppies.

Sue should have stood up, encouraged Darwin to move with her, and let him observe from a position next to her. We’re not saying he has to “dive in” to a puppy scrimmage, or charge into a new situation. But he does have to learn to trust that Sue won’t take him into danger and he can watch, assess, and still be safe without hiding.

A previous 2-Minute Tip addressed the very topic: “By rewarding fear, are you training your dog to be shy?”

Safe space

We advocate the use of crates for dogs for many reasons. One is that a crate should be the dog’s safe space. At dog shows and trials, you’d see almost every single dog competitor, when he/she isn’t showing, relaxing in a crate. It’s the “dressing room” where they can relax between appearances.

Hiding behind “mom” isn’t the same thing. The puppy isn’t relaxed and waiting. He/she is shy or tentative and using mom as protection. Allowed to continue, this can lead to lifelong timidity and even fear aggression. Some fearful dogs lunge out of their hidey-holes to attack anything that gets too close.

Sensible but not smart

It never occurred to Sue that letting Darwin hide underneath or behind her was a bad idea. She truly thought he was quite brilliant for seeking, and finding, “protection.” She was pleased when he came out to participate in the class lessons, and when he retreated back to his hidey-hole when the exercise was over.

It’ll take some conscious thought (and Hope’s nagging) to turn around Sue’s natural “mom” reaction to protect. Darwin is little and adorable. But in order to let her dog live his biggest possible life, she must learn that little dogs are still dogs. Hiding isn’t allowed. Exploring the world is good. And she’ll always be there to make sure nothing bad happens to him.

Why does my dog love other people more?

Does your dog love other people more than you? Does he go running to a favorite person, leaving you abandoned and standing all alone?

Before you get frustrated, jealous, or start trying to woo your dog back, try to decipher what’s actually going on.

You adore that person

One of the most likely explanations of the situation is that you adore that person and your dog is picking up on your delight in seeing him/her. Our dogs have excellent antenna for our feelings. If someone makes you happy, chances are that person will make your dog happy, too.

These days, we can’t always hug people we care about – but our dogs have no concept of social distancing and can go rushing in where people fear to go.

Recognizing “dog people”

Dogs in our shop’s neighborhood know we’re a great place to stop. There are a few who even pull their owners/walkers in our direction. Dogs have great memories and know they’ll get a treat and a scritch when they stop in. Lots of dogs, all over the world, have their “regular rounds” of people and places they visit as a matter of routine. It doesn’t mean the dogs love those more – it means you’re a great owner who enriches your dog’s life with great experiences.

Dogs should also adore their dog walkers, if you use one. We know of many people, now working from home, who continue to use their walkers. It’s good for everyone – the walkers have continued employment in tough times, the owners have a few minutes to themselves, and the dogs love it.

Loving too much?

If you’ve attended a dog training class, or hired a private trainer, your dog may also adore the trainer. Sometimes that’s a good thing. Sometimes not so much.

Most good trainers are wary of using a dog in the class for a “demo dog,” or paying too much attention to any attendee’s dog. It’s not that the trainer doesn’t like you, or your dog. A good trainer will avoid substantial interaction with other people’s dogs.

We know that dogs respond to clear, consistent instructions and rewards. Dogs that seem clueless and untrainable can instantly become stars of the class when the trainer takes the leash. Good trainers have spent years honing those skills – crystal clear instructions, prompt delivery of rewards.

He really does love you best

Don’t despair if your dog runs off to greet someone else. The joy she feels in seeing that person reflects the confidence and fun you’ve built into her life. And remember, you’re greeted with exuberant delight when you return. Even if you were just gone long enough to take out the trash. Your dog really does love you best.

Special dogs need routine even more

Booker in his "place!" Booker is "special."

Have we told you that Fran’s 7-year-old Boston Terrier is a very “special” dog? He has difficulty focusing, he has the attention span of a gnat, he constantly needs attention – he just never seems to completely relax.

High energy is a characteristic of Boston Terriers. So we knew what we were getting into. We’ve had Bostons most of our lives, starting with our childhood pet, Spunky.

Another special dog

Our last Boston before Booker was Ceilidh, who was a very special dog, indeed. She had only two speeds, full or off. She was, possibly, the sweetest girl ever, but her life had to be strictly scheduled, or she was lost.

Since Booker wasn’t as extreme as Ceilidh, we didn’t realize, until Simon joined the family, that Booker, too, was a special dog.

Facing facts makes life easier

Once we understood what was going on with Booker, we made changes to make everyone’s life easier.

All dogs love routine. But special, high-energy, high-anxiety dogs crave it. They can thrive when they know what to expect, when to expect it, and what’s happening.

Thriving with routine

It’s to Fran’s credit that she never gives up with Booker. He’s accomplished amazing things, in light of his personality. He achieved a Companion Dog title – the first level of competition obedience. The hardest thing for Booker was, at the time, sitting for one minute, lying down for three minutes, in a line-up of other dogs and Fran across the room.

Every dog does better with routine. And a routine can be any rehearsed schedule, from what time to get up in the morning, to what you say and do in the few minutes before you leave the house.

Best part of the day

For Booker, the routine he enjoys the most is his morning training session. It’s only a few minutes, but it makes his day. He dashes down to the basement where we train, and waits on the mat in our little training area.

Booker practicing retrieving his dumbbell.

What Fran and Booker practice for those few minutes can be anything – from advanced obedience or rally skills to “put your toys away,” to silly tricks, like crawl or roll over.

And when his session is done, Fran asks him to “hup!” She kneels and he stands on two back feet and puts his front paws on her leg. He gets a reward, and happily goes into his crate while the other dogs each get a “turn.”

If you have a special pup, try adding more structure to his/her life. It can make it easier for everyone.

Accentuate the positive

Ever try to teach your dog not to do something?

“Stop barking at leaves blowing down the street!”

“Don’t counter-surf!”

“Leave the garbage alone!”

Your garbage is tempting to your dog - make a training game out of it!

It’s hard. Much more difficult than training dogs what they should be doing. It’s easy to reward a good decision your dog makes. But communicating the “badness” of a decision requires interrupting the behavior you don’t want. And for that, we have to catch them in the act. All too often we see the aftermath of the naughtiness, not the act itself.

We know it’s frustrating. And we know the temptation is to believe “he knows better!” when your dog dumped over the garbage again.

Your dog doesn’t know better

It’s not true. He/she doesn’t know better. The instinct to go after that smelly, irresistible garbage absolutely overpowered the lesson to “leave it.” Dogs live in the moment and really don’t “know better.” To read more about this, see the 2-Minute Tip: https://2-minute-trainer.com/dogs-live-in-the-moment-and-do-not-know-better

When it’s time to do something about the behavior you don’t want, you have two choices:

Control the situation and, in this example, make the garbage inaccessible to the dog.
Set up a training game and play it often, so your dog truly does understand.

Teach a better solution

In the case of the garbage dumper, it’s easy to get started teaching a better decision. Start by getting your clicker and a bunch of treats and stand by the garbage. When your dog looks at you instead of the garbage, click and reward. Build distance from the garbage can and be sure to watch your dog carefully. Whenever he/she “chooses” you instead of the trash, click and reward. Ultimately, you can increase the “difficulty” of the game by making sure there’s stinky stuff in the garbage that your dog usually can’t ignore.

It may take multiple repetitions for your dog to get the idea that looking away from the trash is “good.” This is one of those situations that yelling at the dog is faster, easier, and lets you vent your frustration. But it’s not better. And negative attention to the behavior is still attention, which most dogs crave.

Correcting “bad” behavior with positive reinforcement does take patience and planning. It’s also a more long-lasting solution and builds understanding for your dog. We’d rather take the time than have a dog that disappears, cowers, or even yells back.

Plan a training game

If your dog consistently does something you hate, plan a training game that turns it around. What would you rather see your dog do in response to the situation? How can you communicate that to your dog? Create your own 2-Minute-Training game around it. You can do it!

Stop lying to your dog

Teasing your dog is lying. Fooling your dog is lying. Stop lying to your dog.

Last year there was a viral video challenge on social media that featured people, with their pets as audience, holding up a blanket in front of themselves (in a doorway), stepping out of sight, and dropping the blanket. Hilarity ensued, as the dogs (or birds, or cats) looked surprised and went to find their “disappeared” people.

It was funny, and not what we’re talking about. It was a momentary “startle” and the dog’s world was right-side-up again within moments. Not a big deal.

Habitual lying is the issue

Also on social media, in a local dog-owners group, we saw a picture of an adorable dog and the owner, introducing herself and her pup, said one of her dog’s favorite games was chasing the laser pointer.

That’s lying to your dog. Big time. If you’re playing that game, stop it.

Your dog chasing a laser is a no-win game. That's lying to your dog. Stop it.

You’re probably wondering why that’s a big deal. The reason is because it’s a no-win game. And while people may understand “no win” scenarios and choose to play as a skill test, dogs don’t. The dog can never, ever catch the light.

A behaviorist friend of ours has witnessed dogs becoming obsessed by the light. What started as a game becomes a frustrated compulsion to chase light – any light. Even sunlight coming through a window, with trees causing shadows, triggered the obsessive/compulsive behavior. Does it happen with every dog? No. But why play a game your dog can’t win?

Never lie to your dog

Dogs are honest beings. Contrary to what some people think, dogs aren’t conniving or guilt-ridden. If your dog peed on your bed when you went to work, it wasn’t because she was being spiteful. It was because she’s suffering from separation anxiety, was looking for you, and was in distress.

Chances are that dog was lied to. Rather than teach her a routine to follow when they were leaving for work, they may have tried to sneak out. Dogs are highly adaptable, bright beings. When they’re given the information they need to cope with a situation, they can do it. If you’re leaving for work, give your dog a special “I’m leaving” treat-filled toy, tell him/her to be good, and go.

Be good to your dog

When dogs know what they’re supposed to do, they’ll do it. Not robotically, and their responses can change with location, distraction, etc. But if your dog knows the word “Sit!” your dog will sit whenever you ask, wherever you are, whoever’s around you.

And if, every time your dog does as you ask, you deliver a reward, your dog will do it more consistently and happily over time. Consistent behavior on our part is mirrored in our dogs. Don’t pretend you have a treat if you don’t. Tell your dog she’s wonderful and show your open hands. She may be disappointed that there’s no cookie, but she’ll know she can always trust you.

Loose leash dog walking – curing the pull

Want to cure your dog of pulling on leash? Would you love to enjoy loose leash dog walking? It’s easier than you think. Stop giving your dog so much information.

Too much information

Think about it. If there is constant pressure on your dog’s collar (or harness), he or she has absolutely no reason to look for you, pay attention to you, or check on your whereabouts. Your dog knows exactly where you are and what you’re doing without a glance. You are, reliably, at the other end of the pressure.

That’s just one of the reasons retractable leashes are a bad idea. There is always, by design, pressure on the dog’s collar or harness. There’s no way to avoid it, unless the retractable’s lock is deployed. And if the lock’s always deployed, you’re just carrying a leash that’s huge, awkward, and heavy. Ditch those retractable leashes!

Keep some things to yourself

If, on the other hand, your dog isn’t getting any feedback from the leash, he or she will “check in” to see where you are and what you’re doing. And, if every check-in is rewarded, chances are your dog will do it more often. It doesn’t have to be a big thing. A simple “good boy,” or tiny treat is just fine.

In this case treats would be better, because your dog has to come to you to get the cookie. We know it’s a natural reaction to meet your dog halfway to deliver the treat, but don’t. Let your dog come all the way back to you for the reward. It teaches your dog so many positive things. You’re the primary source for all good things. Staying closer to you means less distance to cover for treats. It doesn’t take much effort to get a reward.

Breaking the pulling habit

If loose leash dog walking seems beyond your reach, take it in small steps. However long your dog’s been pulling, it may take equally long to break the habit.

All dog walks can’t be training walks. There are lots of different kinds of walks with your dog: exercise walks, potty walks, training walks, gotta get out of the house walks. And training works best if that particular walk is short, focused on training, and no other behavior is allowed (including pee breaks!). To signal a training walk, you may want to have a particular outfit for yourself, and your dog, that lets him/her know what’s going on. Dogs do know the difference when you put on the jacket with all the pockets, or he gets to wear a different collar.

Start right with a loose leash

When you have your dog hooked up on leash, some treats in your pocket, and a training walk on the schedule, have a plan. You’re probably not going to get much of anywhere the first session, if you even manage to get outside.

Loose leash walking has not yet been attained.

Put on the leash. If it stays slack, give a reward. If you take a step and the leash tightens, stop. Don’t say anything. If your dog is behaving like a pulling fool at the end of the leash, ignore it. Stay quiet. At some point, your dog will realize that things aren’t going according to (his) plan. This is the moment that he may look at you. If he does, you’re allowed to say “Good Fido!” (Use your dog’s name, not Fido.) If he comes toward you, let him see you have a yummy treat in your hand. And he has to come all the way to you to get it.

When your dog is close to you and the leash is slack, try taking a step or two. As soon as the leash tightens, stop. Wait for your dog to acknowledge you and come to you.

Remember – we said you wouldn’t be getting very far on this “walk.”

Quick on the uptake

Dogs are pretty smart. As soon as your dog figures out that you really mean it – that pulling isn’t going to be allowed any more, he/she will get on board. Every time you have a training walk, your dog will remember sooner, react faster, and come more quickly. They have to be convinced you’re serious. So be serious about the behavior. It will open up so many more possibilities for having fun on loose-leash walking with your dog. For more fun games to speed you on your way to loose leash walking with your dog, check out Book 3: Let’s Go For a Walk!

Only 2 emotions allowed in dog training

“There are only two emotions that belong in the saddle: a sense of humor and patience.” We saw this meme, pictured with a woman and horse walking away together. We loved it, and the note a friend posted with it: “The same for the end of a leash.”

If we equip ourselves with these two things only: patience and a sense of humor, there’s no limit to what we can do with our dogs.

From the start – when you get your puppy – patience will serve you well, as in Puppy Basics: Calm Down!

Patience teaches us

Just by waiting, we can see how our dogs think and interact with their environment. It’s not always easy, and we don’t always have the time or opportunity to let them figure stuff out. But when we can, it’s worthwhile.

To this day we battle with the temptation to “help” our dogs solve their problems.

Teddy the French Bulldog - Hope needed a lot of patience in training him.

It was especially difficult not to help Teddy, Hope’s French Bulldog. He wasn’t much of a thinker, but he was extremely food motivated and loved chasing away any wildlife that wandered into our yard.

One day he chased a squirrel and found himself “trapped” in a narrow section of the yard between the fence and the garage. It’s an area we keep the pooper scooper and bucket, so tight quarters. The tools were leaning against the fence, as always. The passage was narrow, but he’d gotten himself through there in the heat of the chase.

When the squirrel was gone and Teddy was ready to resume his sniff patrol, he thought he was trapped behind the tools, and started whining.

Hope started going to help, but her dog-trainer brain kicked in and she resisted the temptation. She had nothing pressing on the agenda, and a good supply of patience.

Waiting is hard

So she looked at Teddy and said “You got in there, buddy. Figure it out. You can get out again.” Even though he probably didn’t understand a word of it, Teddy got the message that Hope was there, not angry, and that she wasn’t moving to “rescue” him.

It took a few minutes and the urge to “help” was powerful. Teddy was a whiner when he wanted something. And he’d learned through the years that Hope would go a long way to make it stop – whining makes her crazy. This time, it didn’t work at all.

Success at last

Teddy made a few feints at wrong openings before he finally found the one he’d gotten through in the first place. He gained his “freedom” which he was happy about. He got something else, too. You could absolutely see how proud he was to have figured out the solution. His gait had a strut and his face wore a smile. So did Hope’s.

Dogs understand the bottom line

What’s the bottom line for your dog? What are the things that he or she values most? And how can you use those high-ticket items to shape the behavior you want?

The entire basis for successful, science-based, 2-Minute-Trainer dog training is a compact we have with our dogs: they get what they want when we get what we want. It’s the best deal anyone’s ever made. Our dogs understand what’s expected of them and know they’ll be rewarded, comfortable, and loved. And we have loyal, loving, well-behaved, and adorable companions.

Adding value for everyone

What things are dearest to your dog? Is it food? Food-motivated dogs are a pleasure to train. Gratification is almost instantaneous.

Do toys and play rate highest for your dog? So much fun to be had by all with training games.

Humans and dogs both have a rating system for rewards. For most people, chocolate is more rewarding than Brussels Sprouts. Think about your dog’s preferences. One of ours adores celery – it’s a very high-value treat. When we really want him to pay attention, we have celery in our treat pouch.

Likewise, some toys are more important than others to toy-loving dogs. If you’re playing a training game, think about whether your dog will give up the toy to go back to the game, or if it’s so precious to him/her that he’ll lose interest in the game and focus instead on the reward.

Transferring the value

Simon has value for the balance disc - he gets lots of treats when he's on it.

You can use the things that your dog prizes make other “things” valuable. For example: we have our dogs work on balance and fitness on an inflatable balance disc. (A couch cushion can work just as well. For more on this, go to the post.) Whenever our dogs get up on that disc, they are rewarded. Every single time. That balance disc is one of the most valuable things in the house to every one of our dogs because they know its value.

From the dog’s perspective, it’s not the “thing.” It’s what happens when he interacts with the thing.

Say you want to start the “put your toys away” game. Start with the “thing” that you want your dog to pick up. You can use any household item; a spatula, a paper towel tube, an empty plastic jar, whatever you want.

Put the thing down in front of the dog. When he looks at it, reward. And offer the reward close to the “thing.” In almost no time, the “thing” acquires value. Dog thinks: “When I look at it (touch it, pick it up, carry it) I get something great every time. I love that thing!”

Transfer the value

It works no matter what. You can add value to any object or place, just by consistently showing your dog it’s important. Dogs love us and want to please us, but they’re also sufficiently selfish to do what benefits them. Dogs will repeat behaviors that have value. That’s every dog’s bottom line.

Pack dog training debunked

“Pack” dynamics was all the rage in dog training a while ago. There are still some remnants of it around. The objective, for those who managed to avoid the nonsense, was that you should be the “Alpha” dog – and that the other dogs would naturally be subservient.

Our domestic dogs bear very little resemblance to wolves in the wild. — Our domestic dogs are nothing like wolf packs in the wild.

Research into how dogs learn and behave has put paid to this. Dogs in human households are nothing like wolf packs in the wild. Domestic dogs are dependent throughout their lives, and more like perpetual puppies than a mature wolf pack. Pack dog training is unproductive and archaic.

Pack dog training silliness

Recently we’ve seen some dog food commercials emphasizing the relationship between wolves and dogs. While we agree that dogs aren’t designed to be vegetarians, showing majestic leaping wolves morphing into domestic dogs isn’t apples to apples. Dogs and wolves may have common ancestry, but their similarities after thousands of years of domestication are minimal.

If you’ve been following a famous television dog trainer who advocates pack structure and talks about “calming” behaviors, stop it now. It won’t help your training to think you have to dominate your dog. The best and most effective dog training forges a partnership between you. It’s not somber, it’s fun. Rather than forceful and stern, good training is playful and fun.

Go with what works

When we started in dog training, decades ago, there were lots of methods used that we now consider abuse. In obedience competition training, it was common to pinch a dog’s ear to get him/her to pick up a dumbbell. We’re sorry to admit we know of some people who still use it.

It’s not necessary. And it’s certainly not fun, for either the trainer or the dog.

Tango picks stuff up and puts them into a bin. — Fran trained Tango to pick his toys up and put them into a bin.

Our dogs pick up all sorts of stuff, carry the stuff around, and put it down where we want them to. And all we did to achieve it was play a game. Here’s how it goes:

“Pick up the thing” game

Get a bunch of treats, your clicker, and the “thing” you want your dog to pick up.

Put the thing on the floor and stand by it. If your dog looks at the thing, click and treat. Do that three times.

By the third time, your dog’s going to figure out that the “thing” gets him/her rewarded. You’ve added value to the “thing.”

When your dog “gets” this idea, ask for more. You don’t have to be quiet, still praise your dog for looking, but now save the treats for something more – touching the “thing” with his/her mouth. If your dog touches it with a paw, you can certainly encourage and praise. The treats should be “saved” for the actions that move the behavior forward – in this case we want the dog to pick up the thing.

That’s basically the sequence: introduce the thing and reward each step in the progression. Each dog’s steps may be different, but could include: look, sniff, lick, pick up. Then run away with the “thing” and show it off like a trophy as you run around!

If your dog does this, the impulse is to run after him and try to get it away. Instead, run with him, or away from him, encouraging your dog to come with you! If you’ve already gotten a box or bin you want the “thing” placed in, run over to that and encourage your dog to “drop” the thing.

No domination here

In just a few short sessions, you and your dog will have a new game to play. And you both had fun learning it. If your ambition includes obedience, it’s even a useful game. And nobody got hurt doing it.

Training games make great dog pictures

Want to take great dog pictures?

Turn “posing” into a training game!

Torque does not like having his picture taken.

If, like us, you have a dog that turns away every time a camera (or phone) is pointed at him, you know it can be challenging to get great pictures. Especially if, like ours, your dog is a dark color.

We don’t know why Torque tends to be camera-shy, but he is. So when we want to take his pictures, we make it part of a training game. That boy is all-in for any training game!

Move around

When starting the “pose” game, the first step is to have your dog stay in place while you’re moving around. Ask for your dog’s best position (sit or stay). Grab a handful of treats. Then start moving! As long as your dog stays in place, go back and reward every couple of steps. When you run out of treats, use your dog’s release word, and done!

When your dog is comfortable with your movement, try carrying your phone or camera with you while you move. Fake (or really) take pictures, stopping your motion, clicking the shutter, then moving again.

Get down

Down at Booker's level - a great picture.

We’re really short people, but we’re still much taller than our dogs. We’re even taller than our friends’ big dogs. The result is that most dog pictures are taken from above, and don’t show dogs’ real expressions.

The answer is to get down to a level even with your dog’s head. Then your dog’s face will show a natural expression – which is the one you know, love, and want to keep forever in good pictures.

The problem with getting down at your dog’s level is that it’s an unusual move for most people, and your dog won’t understand what you’re doing. If your dog is like ours, they’ll see it as an invitation to get up in your face and either lick, play, or have a “nutsy puppy” episode.

If this happens for you, make getting down to dog level part of the motion sessions. Your movement doesn’t have to be all standing up. Try crawling, kneeling, squatting and reward your dog for staying in place.

Look at everything

Aside from dogs not staying still, the biggest obstacle to getting a good portrait of your dog is clutter. Before you ask your dog for the sit or down, check the area you want to take the portrait. Frame it in your phone and look at every part of the area. Are there verticals that will give your dog antennae? Is there something bright or distracting in the background? Either shift where you’re working, or remove the object.

Lastly and most delicately

People with girl dogs don’t have this particular issue, but for those of us with boys – no one wants to see your dog’s boy bits in every picture. Three-quarter poses are excellent for using front legs as visual blocks. Over the years, with mostly boy dogs, we’ve become adept at hiding bits and we know you can, too!