training rewards Archives - Page 2 of 3

Dog training is teamwork

At the bottom of this post you’ll find links to the winning performances of the AKC Virtual Trick Dog competitions for the last two years. What’s most notable isn’t that the dogs are wonderful, which they are. It’s that the dogs are doing pretty normal tricks. And not necessarily getting them right on the first try. What’s spectacular is the narrative their people put together. It lets them show off their wonderful dogs doing fun stuff. Because good dog training is teamwork.

Reward for right

The other thing we noticed is that the people stopped to reward when their dogs did well. Even while recording a competition video. Because letting your dog know when they’re “right” has to be different from being “wrong.” It’s a lesson that’s hard for many of our students. We wish we had a nickel for every time we said: “Getting it right should be rewarded.” At every opportunity. Even for behaviors your dog’s known since he/she was a puppy. (Here’s more about rewards.)

Most of the tricks the dogs perform in these videos are variations on the themes of “get on it,” “get over it,” “go through it,” “carry it,” and “put it over there.” All of them are within your dog’s capabilities. The dogs don’t do the narrated routines on their own. Their people are there, showing them what to do every step of the way. And the dogs’ tails are wagging throughout. These dogs are having a good time.

Your dog training team

Dogs doing things and being rewarded are featured in the Trick Dog Championship videos. — Torque is carrying a cardboard tube.

You can see the dogs watching their people throughout. They’re anticipating having more fun. And treats. But they’re not harassing the “cookie hand.” These dogs know that when they do what they should, they’ll be rewarded for it. These dogs aren’t dragging through their routines. They’re practically dancing from one trick station to the next.

It’s also worth noting that when the dogs don’t get it right the first time the only thing that happens is they get to try again. There’s no punishment. There’s just another chance to get it right. And be rewarded for it.

That’s the agreement we make with our dogs. When we get what we want, they get what they want. Mostly what they want is our attention. And treats. Dog training is all about the team. Playing fun games, teaching dogs how to make good decisions, having fun, and expanding their understanding.

Not robot dogs

Will your dog mess up? Sure. Everybody does. Some days are better than others. And there will be 2-Minute dog game sessions that are a mess from the start. Even those sessions have some value because it teaches us how to change gears and try something else.

It’s important that you’re easy on yourself and your dog. These top-winning Trick Dog competitors are ready to try again when their dogs miss the first try. They’re quick with the rewards when their dogs get it right. And they’re not afraid to show the world they and their dogs aren’t perfect. They’re proud to show off their amazing dogs.

https://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3ohttps://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3o 2021 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Miniature Poodle)

https://youtu.be/7zsO5IdLPBY 2022 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Australian Terrier)

Every dog needs a muzzle

Why on earth are we talking about dog muzzle training?

You’d never use a muzzle on your dog, right? Your dog is a sweetheart and would never threaten anyone!

Not so fast. How about if your dog is in an accident and injured? Will you guarantee they won’t snap in panic, pain, or fear? Under duress, the mildest-mannered dog may react according to instinct, not training. Every dog needs a muzzle.

One of the first lessons in canine First Aid is how to fashion a muzzle from any strip of cloth or rope. Emergency personnel want to help your dog, but don’t want to risk their own safety to do it. And we don’t blame them.

Imperatives for safety

There are two things every dog should be trained for “just in case:”

Crates. Every dog should be familiar and comfortable with a cage or crate. For travel, grooming, hospitalization – it’s the safest place for your dog. In the event of some kind of disaster requiring an evacuation, some shelters will only accept dogs if they’re crated.
Muzzles. While there are many people who would want to help if your dog were injured, nobody wants to risk a bite. If your dog is at all reactive, a muzzle allows you to go anywhere knowing that nothing will happen. (You can read Fran’s introduction to muzzles with Tango and his reactive training in her book Tango: Transforming My Hellhound.) And many veterinarians now routinely muzzle unfamiliar dogs. It keeps everyone safe. Additionally, a muzzle will prevent your dog from putting everything in his mouth on walks.

Better to have it

There’s an old saying “better to have and not need, than need and not have.” Having a muzzle and never needing it is ideal. Needing one and stressing out your dog isn’t good at all. Every dog needs a muzzle – just in case…

There are lots of different types of muzzles out there. There are muzzles with metal “baskets,” leather muzzles, rubber muzzles, muzzles made of net like Simon’s (below). There’s even a muzzle that looks like a duck’s bill, which makes it less threatening-looking. Which kind you get depends on your preference, your dog’s anatomy, and what’s available. You’ll find all of them online – read the measuring and fitting instructions carefully.

Simon wearing his muzzle. He can breathe, drink, pant and get treats wearing it. — Simon in his muzzle.

If you have a short-faced dog, your options are more limited, but they do exist. Search specifically for a muzzle for brachycephalic dogs, or short-faced dogs. You can see Simon wearing his muzzle to the left.

Your dog’s muzzle should allow you to deliver treats to your dog. It will also allow the dog to drink, pant, and see clearly. Its purpose is to keep everyone safe, not cause further anxiety in a traumatic situation. Simon can obviously see, breathe, get treats, drink and pant while he wears his muzzle. Even though he has no nose to speak of, Simon has a muzzle that works for him.

Muzzle training steps

The first step for introducing anything new to your dog is exactly that – an introduction. Show the muzzle to your dog, click and reward. If your dog sniffs it, click and reward. If your dog stays calm when you pick it up, click and reward.

Drape the muzzle over the hand that’s delivering treats to your dog. If your dog has to touch the muzzle to get the treat, that’s ideal. But don’t force it. If your dog is wary of the it at first, respect that for now. We want your dog to associate that muzzle with getting lots of high-value treats. Gradually move the muzzle closer to your dog so he has to push into it to get the treat.

Step by step, gradually introduce your dog to the look and feel of the muzzle. If your dog resists, back up to the last step where he/she was okay, and start again. There’s no rush. Your dog will let you know when he/she is okay with the next step. Pay attention to your dog’s signals.

Keep sessions short

Generally speaking, dogs think muzzles are weird. They’re right. Don’t work on muzzle training more than 2-Minutes, like any other training session. But try to devote one 2-Minute session every day to the muzzle, until your dog is completely okay with it. Getting it over his/her head and clasping the buckle may take some time. Take the time that’s needed so your dog doesn’t mind the muzzle at all. Putting on a muzzle should become one of the strange things Mom (or Dad) wants, so your dog does it willingly. They may never like it, but they do it because we ask them to.

And while your dog is wearing his muzzle, don’t be stingy with the treats! If he’s being good, reward him!

If your dog is familiar with wearing a muzzle, you’ll have one less thing to worry about should the unthinkable happen. It’s another way to protect your pet.

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm.

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more.

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn. — Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.

Good Dogs Should Always Be Rewarded

We met a woman this week whose two-year-old daughter thinks their dog’s name is “Good Dog!” We laughed about it, but it rings true. This woman is so accustomed to saying “Good Dog!” it could be the dog’s name. It’s not. The dog’s name is actually Miko.

Is there such a thing as too much praise for your dog? Too many treats? Is it possible to play too many games and have too much fun with your dog?

Of course not!

Too much of a good thing

In human terms, can you ever hear too much sincere praise from your boss? Knowing you’re doing well isn’t a reason to stop trying. It’s encouragement to keep going. And maybe even try even more, since you know your efforts are being appreciated.

Simon - a good dog is rewarded. — Simon’s a good dog who’s being rewarded!

It’s very common for people to assume there’s a time limit for rewarding their dog for good behavior. Once their dog is “trained” (as if you’re ever done!), they can stop rewarding. There is no time limit. Throughout your dog’s life, let them know you like what they’re doing. They’re good dogs. And you love them. Just like no human likes being taken for granted, dogs should be appreciated just for being good dogs!

Worried about spoiling

“But I don’t want to ‘spoil’ my dog! He’ll expect treats all the time!”

We hear that a lot, especially from new dog owners.

Realistically, what’s the harm in spoiling your dog? Your dog is never going to have to fend for himself in society. He doesn’t have to be a responsible citizen, get a job, pay rent, vote, drive, or even shop for groceries. Your dog’s one and only “job” is to be a good dog. A much-loved member of the family. Who doesn’t poop on the floor.

And is it really “spoiling” if you’re acknowledging your dog’s respect for the rules you’ve set? If your dog is doing the “job” you’ve assigned, shouldn’t he be paid for a job well done?

Let’s make it about you, instead. You have a job you love. You enjoy the work, your office, your colleagues, even the corporate culture of your workplace. Are you still going to work if you don’t get paid? (There are never too many treats in dog training either!)

Pay your good dogs

Maybe we just need a change in terms. Instead of “rewarding” good behavior, maybe we should just consider it payment for a job well done. After all, a reward sounds like a one-time deal – a single recognition of some achievement. Instead, maybe we should look at treats/playtime/praise as just part of your dog’s regular salary for being a very good dog.

Eyes on the Prize

Setting priorities in dog training

When your dog does something unexpected in a training session, how do you react? Do you remember your priorities in dog training? Or do you allow your focus to wander?

Torque gave Hope a lesson in keeping priorities straight. In the middle of their 2-Minute Trainer video of the week, he decided to take off with the training game’s object, carry it off to a corner, and shred it to bits.

So she screamed “NO!” at him, wrestled it out of his mouth, smacked him with it, and crated him immediately.

Of course not. You can see in the video that she takes a pause to figure out what Torque’s up to. Removes the toy, and attempts to regain his attention and focus. It’s semi-successful, but calls for a change in the plan.

There are two paths forward:

Change directions and teach Torque to use pool noodle pieces, not eat them.
Use something else for the “Push!” game and get on with life.

Decide what’s important

Is it worth it for Torque to learn not to eat pool noodles? When we think about how often he’ll encounter them, not really. If we used them for anything but dog training games, it might be important. But we have no pool, and he’s never going anywhere without us. The chances of him encountering and destroying other people’s pool noodles in the wild is minimal. So we’re going to make a different choice for his training games.

That’s how you keep your eyes on the prize. Torque showed us the object we were using for the game isn’t a viable option. So we’ll use something else. That’s keeping your dog training priorities in order. We talked about training certain behaviors regardless of the public’s perception of any breed’s intelligence some time ago.

Be ready to shift gears

“Shifting gears” used to be something every driver had to know how to do. Nowadays, most people probably don’t even know the origin of the phrase. But it’s still a good one. Drivers of manual transmission cars had to pay attention to multiple inputs (speed, traffic, signals, etc.) and be ready to literally shift gears to adjust. Constantly.

Dog training requires that you’re paying attention to what your dog is telling you and be ready to shift gears and adjust. Torque’s theft of the pool noodle was him saying “I don’t know what you want, so I’m leaving.” His repetition of that means “Shredding this thingie is highly rewarding to me, so I’m going to keep doing it.”

Given a choice, dogs will always opt for the most rewarding action. At that moment, shredding the noodle was more rewarding than playing with Hope. Gears have to shift. The game has to get more fun, and the object less so.

Always communicating

Your dog is always providing feedback on your training. If you pay attention to what their behavior and body language tells you, your partnership will thrive.

And be ready to shift on the fly (back to car references!). If, instead of a pool noodle, Torque had suddenly decided that books are wonderful to destroy, we would have to address that. If it matters to you, you can make it matter to your dog. You set your own priorities in dog training.

Bribing dogs to behave

Are we bribing our dogs or rewarding them? — Do we bribe our dogs or pay them for a job well done?

Is reward-based dog training the same as bribery? Are we bribing dogs to behave? Is there something wrong with constantly rewarding dogs?

Let’s break it down into terms even our most resistant students understand instantly. You have a job. You love all aspects of your job – the work you do, the place you do it, the people you work with. It’s an ideal situation and you couldn’t be happier.

Would you still do it if you didn’t get paid?

Your dog’s job is to be a great companion, a member of the family who conforms to the rules of the household. When your dog does a good job – shouldn’t they get paid, too?

Because we say so!

At a certain toddler age, every child goes through a “Why?” stage – questioning everything. It’s a normal part of development, but that doesn’t mean it’s not sometimes frustrating. At some point, everyone has lost patience and said “Because I say so!”

At this point the child understands only that you’re angry with them. They don’t understand the source of the anger, or what happened to change the mood. Neither does your dog.

Even adult dogs are persistent toddlers. The smartest dogs in the world will never go to college, never support themselves, never become responsible taxpayers. We choose to be their guardians throughout their lives.

Asking your dog to consistently do what you want, without any hope of reward, is unrealistic. “Because I say so” only works some of the time. “Because you love me” only works some of the time. Without some kind of reward, your dog has no reason to do as you ask. Is it bribing your dog to behave? Maybe. Do we care?

Rewards come in different forms

It doesn’t mean you have to be a constant “Pez dispenser” as one of our students phrased it. It does mean that your dog’s good behavior should be acknowledged – with words, play, pets, scratches, treats, or anything your dog loves. Our article “Lots of ways to reward your dog” discusses this in more depth.

Give your dog a reason to choose wisely. The more you reward your dog for making good choices, the better they’ll become at choosing. What gets rewarded gets repeated.

So is it bribery? Some may see it that way. The promise of a reward is motivating for both people and dogs. So – pay your dog.

Luring vs. rewarding

Actually, luring, which is not the best dog training, is more akin to bribery. We like to think of positive reinforcement training, reward-based training, as the best bargain you can make with your dog. They get what they want when we get what we want. Sounds like a good deal for everyone.

If you consider it bribing dogs, we’re okay with that. It gets results, that that’s what matters.

Never too many dog training treats

There is no such thing as too many dog treats. Especially when introducing your dog to something new, there can’t be too many rewards. It’s one of the best investments you can make – whether your dog is learning to eliminate outside, or being calm when someone comes in the house, there are never too many dog training treats.

But my dog will get fat!

Every class session there’s a student who worries about their dog getting fat. While we understand the concern, there are ways of controlling your dog’s calories without cutting back on training treats. Use the dog’s regular food for training! Why not? Your dog would love getting food from you instead of a bowl. It will take longer to eat, and you both accomplish something.

If your dog isn’t crazy about their food, try mixing in tidbits of some delicacy to make it more appealing. Measure out their regular portion and stir in some bits of hot dog or cheese. Most dogs love those. One student in our classes even used defrosted, popcorn shrimp. Her dog loved it and the other dogs in class got very good at working despite the distracting smells.

More calorie-friendly tips

There are lots of ways to control your dog’s intake without cutting back on quantities. Every good choice your dog makes deserves a reward. That reward can be a carrot slice, or a green bean. It could even be air-popped popcorn! Most dogs adore it.

Your dog may have a different opinion on things we don’t consider treats; rice cakes, diced celery, apple pieces are all possibilities. If it’s safe for dogs to consume, it’s worth trying. You never know what surprising food item your dog will go crazy for.

But my dog has tummy trouble

This week we talked to a woman whose 16-week-old puppy is on prescription canned food. Per the veterinarian’s advice, he can’t have anything else for a time. After our talk, she’s getting creative. Taking that icky, smelly, gooey canned food and scooping pea-sized “meatballs.” She’s freezing them and using them for training treats.

With a little thought and problem-solving, you can find a way to reward your dog for every single good choice she makes.

Does it have to be food?

Rewards for your dog can be anything the dog enjoys. (A while ago we discussed the various methods of rewarding your dog.) If your dog’s favorite thing in the world (other than you) is a tennis ball, throw the ball as a reward! If it’s a scratch behind the ears, do that. Just acknowledge every single good decision your dog makes. Even if it’s just a “Good Dog!” By itself, praise isn’t usually enough to encourage dogs to repeat a behavior. But interspersed with more substantial treats, it’s fine.

Some people are still stuck in the old-school idea that “Because I said so!” should compel obedience from dogs. It generally doesn’t work with children, and it certainly doesn’t motivate dogs to obey. The idea of positive reinforcement training is to get your dog to understand “good” behavior. The stuff that’s rewarded will be repeated. If there’s no reward, there’s no reason to do it again.

Transfer of value

Once you and your dog have developed a training game habit, you’ll find your dog eager to play training games with you for the sheer fun of it. When that happens, you can randomize rewards. Instead of rewarding each step in a sequence, a treat for “job well done!” is enough.

The game itself becomes the reward for your dog. Having your complete attention and focus, even if it’s only for 2-Minutes, is enough to make your dog happy. They learn, your relationship deepens, you understand each other better. Life with your dog improves with every reward delivered.

Lots of ways to reward your dog

Some people think that reward-based training will result in fat dogs. Or that dogs trained with rewards will “work” only when treats are visible. These concerns may make those people reluctant to embrace training that’s solely reward based – even though it’s proven more effective than any system that includes punishment.

Know your dog

Depending on the dog, some rewards are more valuable, and therefore more motivating than others. (Read more about the timing and placement of rewards.)

Some dogs love toys. Knowing that being “good” will result in a short tug session is the ultimate reward for these dogs.

Others couldn’t care less about toys, or tugging. For them, only food will serve as a reward.

Still other dogs, although we’ve never had one, are thrilled with praise and petting. Just that attention from their people is all they need for reinforcement.

Knowing your dog and what motivates him/her lets you create a unique “tool set” for rewarding your dog.

Hierarchy of rewards

The "Moople" rubber toy has lots of value for Simon.

If you have a toy-driven dog, you also know which toys are his/her favorites and which are playable if nothing else is available. If your training session is at home, with no distractions, the less-favored toy is fine. Using that will let you get back to training after just a few seconds of tugging.

If you’re out with your dog in a place with distractions, use a toy that’s more valuable. If it’s someplace your dog gets stressed, “up the ante” even more and bring out the favorite toy.

We’ve never seen a dog that didn’t have preferences with toys. Some dogs are fanatics for balls. For these guys, be sure to get balls on ropes so you can be part of the fun. The last thing you want is for your dog to grab the toy and dash off during a 2-Minute-Dog-Training session.

Other dogs like ropes, or plush toys. Some are into vinyl or latex toys. It shouldn’t be a problem to have a variety on hand. And keep the “reward” toys separated – use only for training sessions. If and when they become stale, you can switch them out for others. We always have a bin of toys hidden away because toys the dogs haven’t seen in a few months are equivalent to new. And new toys are always best.

Food works the same way

If your dog loves food rewards best, a “trail mix” of goodies works for every training session. Most dogs see dry food every meal, so it’s not as exciting. But it makes a great mix-in with Cheerios, bits of cheese, or even small pieces of hot dog. If your dog never knows what the next morsel will be, he/she will stay interested and motivated.

Again, if you’re playing where there are no distractions, chances are the kibble will be fine on its own. In a high-stress place, or with lots of distractions, the ratio should slant heavily toward your dog’s most-favorite bite.

You know your dog best and can adjust the “trail mix” accordingly. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque thinks celery is the most wonderful food on the planet. It may be weird, but it works for them.

Praise as reward

We’ve never had a dog that was satisfied with just praise as a reward for a “job well done.” They always look at us like “yeah, that was fine. Show me the money (toy, food)!”

But if you do, it’s a wonderful thing. Just by varying your pitch and volume, you can change the excitement and reward level for your dog. You always have your voice and hands with you, so there’s no excuse not to reward your dog.

Not “light” travelers

For the rest of us, there’s always some preparation when we go somewhere with our dogs. The more pockets we have, the happier we are. Aside from the mandatory leash and poop bag, we need the pouch (or sandwich bag) of treats, and a toy or two. And the most important thing we can bring – focus.

Too often we see it. People supposedly walking their dogs with their entire attention focused on the phone in their hands. The dog is at the end of the leash, paying no attention to the person. The disconnect is sad to see. Dogs adore their people and want nothing more than their attention. These dogs have learned to live without it and entertain themselves. Both person and dog would enjoy their walks so much more if they engaged with each other.

Dogs understand the bottom line

What’s the bottom line for your dog? What are the things that he or she values most? And how can you use those high-ticket items to shape the behavior you want?

The entire basis for successful, science-based, 2-Minute-Trainer dog training is a compact we have with our dogs: they get what they want when we get what we want. It’s the best deal anyone’s ever made. Our dogs understand what’s expected of them and know they’ll be rewarded, comfortable, and loved. And we have loyal, loving, well-behaved, and adorable companions.

Adding value for everyone

What things are dearest to your dog? Is it food? Food-motivated dogs are a pleasure to train. Gratification is almost instantaneous.

Do toys and play rate highest for your dog? So much fun to be had by all with training games.

Humans and dogs both have a rating system for rewards. For most people, chocolate is more rewarding than Brussels Sprouts. Think about your dog’s preferences. One of ours adores celery – it’s a very high-value treat. When we really want him to pay attention, we have celery in our treat pouch.

Likewise, some toys are more important than others to toy-loving dogs. If you’re playing a training game, think about whether your dog will give up the toy to go back to the game, or if it’s so precious to him/her that he’ll lose interest in the game and focus instead on the reward.

Transferring the value

Simon has value for the balance disc - he gets lots of treats when he's on it.

You can use the things that your dog prizes make other “things” valuable. For example: we have our dogs work on balance and fitness on an inflatable balance disc. (A couch cushion can work just as well. For more on this, go to the post.) Whenever our dogs get up on that disc, they are rewarded. Every single time. That balance disc is one of the most valuable things in the house to every one of our dogs because they know its value.

From the dog’s perspective, it’s not the “thing.” It’s what happens when he interacts with the thing.

Say you want to start the “put your toys away” game. Start with the “thing” that you want your dog to pick up. You can use any household item; a spatula, a paper towel tube, an empty plastic jar, whatever you want.

Put the thing down in front of the dog. When he looks at it, reward. And offer the reward close to the “thing.” In almost no time, the “thing” acquires value. Dog thinks: “When I look at it (touch it, pick it up, carry it) I get something great every time. I love that thing!”

Transfer the value

It works no matter what. You can add value to any object or place, just by consistently showing your dog it’s important. Dogs love us and want to please us, but they’re also sufficiently selfish to do what benefits them. Dogs will repeat behaviors that have value. That’s every dog’s bottom line.

All behaviors are equal

In our little morning training session today, Torque reminded Hope that all behaviors should be treated equal.

Most rewarding

Torque reminded Hope that all behaviors should be treated equally.

All dogs will, pretty reliably, do what’s most rewarding to them. They’re excellent at acting in their own best interests. Whatever got them the most valuable feedback (treats, toys, praise, pets, games) is probably what they’ll do again.

Lately, Hope and Torque have been focusing on his “bow” behavior. Mostly because he’s stuck in a “cone of shame” while his corneal ulcer heals and there are lots of things he can’t do in a cone. Also because it’s fun to teach and learn new “stuff.” And because Torque had started anticipating positions in practice, so it was time to mix it up.

One of Torque and Hope’s favorite behaviors is what the AKC calls the “Command Discrimination,” where the person asks the dog to either Sit, Stand, and Down. In the higher levels, it can be done in any order.

When we practice, we try to mix it up so the dog actually listens, instead of just performing a learned pattern. Dogs love routine and patterns, so if you always do things in the same order, your dog will learn that and do it automatically, rather than actually paying attention. Changing the order teaches the dog to listen and watch, rather than performing a memorized routine.

Difference in a nutshell

And that, in a single sentence, is the difference between old-school dog training and the science-based, positive training we teach. We’re teaching dogs to listen, understand, learn, and act. This way our dogs know what they’re doing, can do it in any order, always have fun doing it, and love playing training games with us.

Hope found herself in a bit of a pickle. With only three commands to discriminate among, Torque had a 50 percent chance of getting the next one right, so he’d gamble and “help” Hope decide on the next call. Which resulted in him getting rewarded about half the time if his timing was spot on. He wasn’t waiting to hear what Hope asked for, he was guessing. And he’s a really good guesser.

Bowing to the inevitable

So Hope introduced the “bow” as another command to choose. It’s not part of the competition, so it’s only for practice, but it’s also really, really cute.

It was only last week that Torque showed he understood what “bow” was – front legs flat on the ground, butt in the air. And Hope rewarded it enthusiastically. Torque and Hope were both smiling and proud of him.

So today, when Hope was playing the Command Discrimination game, Torque started “bowing” every time she opened her mouth to say anything. He was performing the behavior that, most recently, was most rewarded. Which was a perfect reminder to treat all behaviors equally – reward everything you like. Ignore what you don’t.

More of what you want

Fran and her 1-year-old Simon have been working on the “Stand” part, both for the Command Discrimination and the Novice “Stand for Examination.” Same thing – Stand has been heavily rewarded recently, so Simon was choosing it, regardless of what Fran asked for.

Every time we play training games with our dogs they show us what they’ve been learning. Whether or not it’s what we meant to teach them – it’s the information we need to do a better job of communicating with them.