Tag: reward-based training

Foundation Dog Games #4: 3 – Step Pattern Walking

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3-Step Pattern Walking is the dog training game that fixes people’s number one complaint about their dogs – pulling on leash.

The longer your dog has been practicing pulling, the more ingrained the habit. And, honestly, most dogs like pulling – even if it makes them choke. The logic of it is simple. With a tight leash, the dog doesn’t have to pay attention to you. They know exactly where you are. Which frees up your dog to check out everything in the environment.

Changing the rules

Since habit is powerful, you’re not going to try to change it. Instead, 3-Step Pattern Walking gives you and your dog a new way of walking. Rather than breaking a habit, it’s a new way of going for walks.

We’re not going to lie. How long it takes to work, or whether it works at all, is entirely on you.You can’t skip ahead or move forward before your dog’s ready. But if changing the behavior matters to you, and you work the process, it works like a charm.

First step

Choose a three-word phrase you can easily remember. Most people use 1-2-3, or A-B-C. The most creative one has been “Coffee, Tea, Wine.”

Don’t make it specific to this dog, or use your dog’s name. Once you see how well this works, you’ll use it for every dog you have in your lifetime. Keep it simple and easy to say.

Once you’ve decided on your three word phrase, Get a bunch of high-value treats and your dog. Take five treats. Say only the third word in your sequence and give your dog a treat. Don’t ask your dog to do anything. They don’t have to sit, or look at you, or do anything. They’re getting a treat when they hear the word.

What you’re doing is making that third word the most valuable word in the world to your dog. EVERY SINGLE TIME they hear that word, they get a treat. No exceptions. And, at this point, no demands on their behavior.

Next Steps

Take another five treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. On the third word, give the dog a treat. 

Most people can predict what’s coming next. Say the entire three-word phrase and give your dog a treat on the third word. It does help if you make that third word more exciting. Your dog has now gotten 15 treats when they hear your third word. That word is starting to sound pretty amazing to your dog.

That’s it for the first session. You’re just introducing the phrase and its value to your dog. 

Do it again

The next session, do exactly the same thing. Your third word is starting to become a jackpot for your dog. If your dog’s head isn’t whipping around to look at you when you say that third word, stay here. Get better treats. We want your dog to perk up and be excited to hear that third word.

If your dog starts to drool at the second word, it’s time to move ahead. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. So it’s time to teach them where they’ll get that third-word reward. Hold the treat at the side of your leg. You’ll do the same thing, five treats each for word three, words two-three, and one-two-three. But the difference is the dog must come to the side of your leg to get the treat. 

Time to move

Reward by the side of your leg in 3-step pattern walking

When your dog understands when (word three) and where (by your leg) they get rewarded, it’s time to put the pattern in motion. At first, one step for each word in the phrase. Keep your hands at your waist, just bringing the treat hand (the one closest to the dog) down on the third word. Don’t keep the treat in front of your dog’s nose. We’re rewarding, not luring.

When your dog reliably comes to the reward zone, or stays by your side as you walk and repeat the phrase, you can move on. Speed it up, take it out on walks. 

Don’t expect your dog to pay attention to the game for more than a few minutes at a time. If you’re walking in your neighborhood, with lots of distractions, use it only for two or three repetitions. Before you start, get your dog’s attention with “Touch!” Don’t just start yelling your dog’s 3-word phrase when they’re yanking you down the street. Stop, get some focus, then start.

Practice makes a new habit

We’re overlying a new habit on your dog’s previous behavior with this foundation game of 3-Step Pattern Walking. It takes time to form a new habit, so be patient and consistent. The result is worth it. Making every outing with your dog a nice walk in the park.

Foundation Dog Games #3: Touch!

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“Touch!” is the dog training game we use most often. It’s a fast, fun game. No special equipment, nothing but your hands, some treats, and your dog. The more you play it, the more useful “Touch!” becomes. Make it your dog’s favorite game – you’ll be happy you did.

We’ve seen “Touch!” played a few different ways, with varying results. The version we use really emphasizes the mechanics of the game. It makes a difference when you want to sustain the game longer than a single touch. 

It’s one thing to grab your dog’s attention momentarily when there’s a bicycle flying down the walking path next to you. It’s another when you need to keep your dog’s mind occupied while sitting in the veterinarian’s waiting room with a cat in a carrier across the aisle. Our version of “Touch!” is useful in either case.

Timing is everything

Basically, “Touch!” is just holding out your hand and your dog touches it with their nose. Sounds easy, and it is. The tricky part, if there is one, is keeping the dog doing it. It’s the last place you want your dog displaying “one and done” syndrome.

Remember that dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. That translates to being very conscious of what you’re doing and how you’re doing it. You don’t have to worry that you’ll break your dog, or ruin the game irretrievably. Getting it “wrong” just means you might confuse your dog and it may take an extra 2-Minute session or two for them to get it. Relax and have fun.

Focus on procedure

To play “Touch!”, hold your hand, palm out, in front of your leg at the level of your dog’s nose. It doesn’t matter which hand, or which leg. You’ll be manipulating the treats with the other hand, so it’s probably smart to offer the palm of your non-dominant hand to your dog. 

Hold your palm-out hand right there. Don’t ever move it in this game. Pretend it’s surgically attached to your leg and does not move. Again – the open palm facing your dog does not move during the game. Ever.

In case the emphasis and repetition don’t clue you in, this is the part of the game that almost everyone screws up when they’re learning how to play. That open palm is waggling all over the place, bopping into the dog’s face, curling around a treat, shifting to keep it in the dog’s sight. Again – the open hand that your dog needs to touch Does Not Move. 

When your dog interacts with the palm in any way (looks at it, sniffs it, licks it, touches it with their nose), use the other hand to bring a treat to the palm and give it to your dog. You can say “Good Touch!” if the dog did it. Otherwise, just stay quiet. Do Not Move The Open Hand. Just leave it there. Wait for your dog. Be patient.

Note: if your dog paws at your hand, don’t reward it. We’re being specific that the dog’s nose has to “Touch!” If this game looks a little like “Gimme Your Paw” to your dog, that’s understandable. When you play “Gimme Your Paw,” use a cupped hand, rather than a flat, open palm so your dog will understand the difference. You can start, like Hope did with Simon, seated cross-legged on the floor and your arm resting on your knee

Sustaining the “Touch!” behavior

As long as your open hand remains in place, your dog should keep touching it. Reward every single touch. Because the rate of reward is high for this game, dogs tend to learn it quickly and love playing it. Don’t be stingy with the treats. We want this game to have high interest and value for your dog so you can rely on their response when you need it. 

There really isn’t any next step. You put your palm out, your dog touches it, deliver a reward with the other hand, using the open palm as a target for the treat. Give the dog the treat – don’t drop it in your open palm (which would require moving that hand, which you shouldn’t do). You deliver it to the dog near the open palm. It can look and feel a little awkward, but it’s the way to explain the game to the dog. Remember dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. This is the placement part. It matters.

Play often, wherever

Because this is a go-to game in all kinds of stressful situations, be sure to play it often. Play it in every room, outside, in the car, at the pet store – wherever you and your dog go together. To keep your dog’s interest and love of the game at the highest level, don’t even try to slack off on the rewards. If every single “Touch!” gets rewarded, your dog will, reliably, “Touch!” when you ask them to.

If you keep the “Touch!” game valuable to your dog, they’ll respond when you need them to. Like when you let them out in the yard late at night for last walks and see the skunk ambling across. If your dog dashes over to “Touch!” you may not have to make a midnight run to the store for tomato juice.

The Dog Name Game

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Fundamental Dog Training Games 
1st of 7 in the series

The first, most foundational game your dog should learn is the Dog Name Game. It’s just like it sounds – your dog needs to know his/her name.

A friend of ours totally solved the issue. Realizing she and her husband invariably called their dogs “buddy” instead of their names, she named her new puppy Buddy. It works. He knows his name and responds without fail.

New cast of characters

A dog training student of ours recently adopted an adult dog from a shelter. The dog knew absolutely nothing when they got him, including the name the shelter gave him. Most rescues and shelters we know assign new names to dogs they take in. If the dog’s original name is known, they will try to use a variant that the dog may recognize. Most times, it means little, if anything, to the dog. 

That has to change. Whatever your dog’s age or where you got them from, the first thing they need to know is their name. When you say your dog’s name, their head should whip around toward you and their expression should be “What fun are we going to have now?”

Choose a good one

You can call your dog whatever you want. It’s probably the only circumstance where your opinion is the only one that matters. If you plan to compete in dog sports, it’s a good idea to choose something short, easy to say, and distinct. There’s a good reason that “Bella” and “Max” were the most popular dog names last year. They both fit the bill.

Over time, your dog will acquire all kinds of nicknames, from riffs on their actual name to sobriquets like “Knucklehead.” As long as you and your dog both know and like it, it’s fine. 

Change can be good

What if your dog arrived with a name you don’t like? Change it! If everything in the dog’s life is new, why not their name? It’s just as easy to play the dog name game with a new name as an old. You’ll be adding value to the name you choose.

If it’s a puppy, they’ll probably respond to anything anybody says, as long as they use an exciting voice. There is a special intonation people use for babies of all species. Try it out, looking at a picture of a cute puppy. Listen to yourself and keep that voice in mind when you play the Name Game.

How to play

The Name Game takes a little preparation. Buy a bunch of lidded small containers if you don’t already have them. Make a treat “trail mix,” with all kinds of dry treats your dog likes. You can mix kibble, cereal, freeze-dried meat, jerky, etc. We’ve talked about great dog training treats before, but the idea of the mix is that your dog never knows what’s coming next. There’s always the excitement of anticipation.

Fill the containers and distribute them around the house – one in every room. That includes the bathroom if your dog is in the habit of following you there, too. You’re not alone – most dogs do.

Now you’re ready to play the Name Game. 

Just that easy

All you do is say your dog’s name and, when they look at you, give them a treat. That’s it. They don’t have to do anything else. If you’re playing the Name Game, don’t ask them to sit before they get the treat. This isn’t about “Sit!” All they have to do is look at you.

Your dog will learn rapidly that responding to their name is always rewarded. Try not to say it when you don’t have a treat ready. Or if you’re annoyed. Use the happy-puppy tone. 

Remember when your mother used your whole name? And the tone she used for it? Don’t do that to your dog. If your dog has done something naughty, try not to use their name. It’s the one word you absolutely don’t want to poison by associating it with something unpleasant.

Always happy to hear it

Preserve your dog’s name for happiness. It has to be a trust word. Whenever you say it, good things happen. 

It doesn’t take long for dogs to learn their names playing this game. For all those saying “My dog doesn’t pay attention!” this is the game that turns that around. You can absolutely get and keep your dog’s focus, if you make it worthwhile.

The best dog training treats

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It’s the question that gets asked on social media more than any other – “What training treats are you using?” The answer is simple: the best dog training treats are the ones your dog likes.

Of course dogs’ tastes range widely. There are treats the dog will eat, treats they’ll move to get, and treats the dogs will run through fire to get. The value of any food reward depends on the dog. It’s up to you to discover your dog’s treat hierarchy.

Start with the basics

How eagerly does your dog eat their regular food? If it’s a dry commercial food and your dog devours it, you’re in great shape. It’s the foundation for a “trail mix” of treats that will make your dog happy.

If your dog isn’t an eager eater, it’s more of an issue. In all honesty, we have no experience with dogs that don’t devour their food. For us, a dog refusing to eat is on his/her way to the veterinarian without much lag time. Based on what we know about dogs, if your dog is a reluctant eater, there are a few possibilities:

  • The dog just doesn’t like the food. The fix for this is to try different varieties until you come up with one the dog likes. Give each kind a fair test. Switching constantly may have your dog refusing food until they’re given something “better.” That’s a different kind of trouble.
  • There’s something wrong with the dog. Over the years we’ve had dogs with ulcers and acid reflux, so had to adjust their food and feeding schedule. 
  • The dog isn’t hungry because it’s overfed. If you adhere to the amounts on most commercial dog food packages, your dog is stuffed to the gills.  

Your dog’s regular food is the base of the treat hierarchy. Working your way up from there, the next tier of the hierarchy, includes treats the dog likes and will get up off their butt to reach. This would include many of the commercial dog treats available. It can also include things like cereal (most dogs like the O-shaped oat cereal. Our dogs prefer the honey-nut flavor.), air-popped popcorn, carrots, apple, celery (Torque’s favorite), and green beans (either fresh or frozen).

Moving up the list to treats dogs adore. These are usually things like Chicken Heart Treats, freeze-dried liver, bits of cheese, hot dog, french fries, peanut butter. These treats are the ones your dog would run through fire to get. They’re also the ones that should be given sparingly, especially if your dog has a sensitive stomach. For soft things, like peanut butter or cream cheese, let your dog lick them off the end of a spoon. It takes a little manipulation, but if that’s what your dog likes, you’ll figure it out.

Make a “trail mix”

When you’re training your dog, every room in the house should have a covered container of dog treats. Mix up a big bowl of dry treats from all three tiers of your dog’s hierarchy. Put portions of that mixture in the containers, so you always have treats available. If you have a container sitting on the shelf, you can grab it when the television commercial break starts and complete a whole training game before the show comes back. When it’s easy, you’re more likely to do it.

If the trail mix has a variety of treats in it, your dog will always be hopefully that the A-list treat is up next. They’ll be happy to play with you regardless, but the variety makes it more fun and interesting for your dog.

Rule of treats

For a training class, or when you’re playing a new-to-you training game, the treats should be top-tier, pinnacle level. It keeps your dog interested and attentive, even if their classmates are barking their fool heads off. Or if they don’t understand the new game yet and are getting a little frustrated.

In these scenarios, the treat slogan is “soft, small, and smelly.” Soft, so the dog doesn’t leave crumbs all over and stop to clean up the floor. Small, so they’re less than a full bite and your dog won’t get full. Smelly so the dog knows exactly what you have and is eager to get it.

Best dog training treats

It may take a little time and effort to define your dog’s treat hierarchy. You’ll know which treats your dog like best by how quickly they respond during your training games. There’s no universal “best” dog training treats. It’s up to your dog, and you, to discover what works for your team.

How to stop your dog counter surfing

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When cute little puppies grow tall enough, or clever enough, they discover the joys of counter surfing. Since dogs reliably choose to do what’s most rewarding for them, if they find anything on that counter, they’ll do it again. And again. As long as there are treasures to find, the dog will keep finding them. We imagine there are quite a few family holiday stories that feature a naughty dog stealing some of the featured feast off the table or counter. It may be funny and fondly remembered over the years. But it’s not fun at the time. Not to mention panic-inducing, if it was the centerpiece turkey that’s gone down the dog. Stop your dog counter surfing forever.

Nip it in the bud

Ideally there will be absolutely nothing on the counter the dog finds attractive. If they try counter surfing and get nothing, they have no reason to try again. 

Don’t assume that because your dog can’t reach the counter they can’t steal stuff from it. The memory of Hope’s French Bulldog Teddy up on the kitchen counter is burned into our memories. He stood 12 inches tall. The standard counter height is 36 inches. Did he jump? No. He got onto the kitchen chair. Climbed from there onto the table, and then across to the counter. He only did it once (that we know of), but it’s legendary in the family.

Realistically, few of us can completely clear counters, table tops, and other flat, reachable surfaces. Even in the throes of training a new dog, you still have to live your life. Until your dog gets the message, if you can’t completely contain the stuff, contain the dog. 

If the counter-surfing canine only has access to the attractive surfaces when you’re there, you can use every interaction as a training opportunity.

Send the message

To counter counter-surfing, set up the scenario. Have a dog bed nearby. Stand at your regular cooking position and start cutting up a carrot. Or celery. Something your dog likes and is allowed to have. If your dog intrudes by sticking their nose under your arm, putting their front paws on the counter, or trying to get at the carrot, stop what you’re doing and cover up the “work” with your arms and upper body. If you have to lie on it, do so. Don’t say anything to the dog. Just stare at the dog bed. 

If you tell your dog “Off!” or “No!” or even “Uh-oh” you’re still telling them what to do. The objective is to have the dog make good decisions even if you’re not there to tell them. If you always tell your dog what to do, you’ll always have to. Over the course of your dog’s lifetime, that would be exhausting.

If you put in the effort to teach them good decision-making now, over the course of years you’ll both be much happier. 

Stand firm

At first, with the carrot and counter covered, your dog won’t understand what’s going on. They may paw at you, try to burrow under your arm, or even start whining. This is the part where you must be patient. Waiting is the absolute hardest part of dog training. Don’t say anything. Don’t move. Just stare at the dog bed.

As soon as your dog has all four feet on the floor, or looks at the bed, toss a piece of carrot into the bed. As long as the dog is behaving, keep tossing pieces of carrot in the bed. Just by your actions, you’re teaching the dog that their place in that bed is highly rewarding. 

If they get the carrot piece and then come bounding back to jump some more, cover up and repeat. Single-minded dogs may take a few sessions to get the idea. But they will get it. 

Stop your dog counter surfing forever

Eventually, if you’re patient and consistent, you’ll have a terrific companion for your kitchen endeavors. You can even look forward to spending some companionable time together. If you want to give your dog a chew toy on the bed while you’re preparing food, by all means go ahead.

Throughout your dog’s life, even when they know the house rules, make a point of rewarding them for good decision-making. If you see your dog glance at the counter and then walk away, reward it. That’s a sure sign that the training has worked and your dog really does know better.

Doing It Right Looks Different

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What kind of feedback is your dog getting? Are you making sure that doing it right looks different from doing it wrong?

Let’s say you’ve been practicing a particular behavior with your dog.You’ve been working on it for a while, but your dog just isn’t getting it. It could be anything from the simplest position change to a complex trick. You keep trying, but you’re getting a little frustrated and about ready to throw in the towel. 

And then, giving it one more try for the day, your dog does it right! What do you do to mark the occasion?

  1. Just move on and think to yourself “Finally!” Or do you 
  2. Stop and celebrate? 

If you picked A, pick again. Our trainees hear it all the time: “Doing it right has to look different than doing it wrong.”

How do they know?

When you regularly play training games with your dog, the two of you often act as a team. If your dog could talk, they could probably finish your sentences most of the time. But they can’t talk. And they don’t understand what we want of them until we teach them. You have to let your dog know when they’re right. 

2-Minute Dog Training Games are built on understanding that dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. No reward tells your dog “Sorry, buddy. That wasn’t it.” When they get a jackpot the message is clearly: “Yay for you! You did it!”

Dogs want to get things right and earn that jackpot. Knowing their effort will be rewarded motivates them to keep trying. If at first they don’t succeed they know to try, try again.

For instance

Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, loves doing Rally Obedience stuff. There was one upper-level sign he just wasn’t understanding. It was the “Send Away Sit / Return / Follow Arrow” signs at the Master level, for Rally people. He just didn’t “get” that he had to go near the cone (6 feet away), turn around and then sit. Even teaching the segments separately didn’t work. Putting a target near the cone didn’t work. He just wasn’t getting it. 

They practiced it about every couple of weeks for several months. There was no urgency, and Hope tried different targets, signals, commands. But it wasn’t happening. Torque knew it wasn’t right because he didn’t get any treats. But he was willing to keep trying because we didn’t hammer at it, tell him he was wrong, or enforce any kind of punishment.

Doing it right looks different

Then came the day when he did it. Perfectly. The first try. Hope stopped everything and gave that boy a jackpot of treats, an ear massage, and quit for the day. Doing it right looks different, and he’s done it right every time since. 

Make it a big deal

If it’s a big deal when the dog gets something right, and nothing when they don’t, the dog has a reason to keep trying. Dogs love having a “job” and “working” with their people. But there’s no reason to keep doing it if their efforts gain them nothing.

Quite a few of the comments on our videos are similar to “my dog isn’t interested.” Or “my dog won’t listen.” And to each of these we ask – what motivation are you giving your dog? Do they get anything special for listening? For being interested? If doing nothing and doing something all get the same treatment, why would they bother?

It’s on you

There’s a saying among dog trainers that “Every dog is trained to its owner’s level of comfort.” Most people quit trying when their dogs learn the bare minimum to live comfortably. As long as their dog doesn’t chew their shoes and potties where they’re supposed to, they’re satisfied. 

And if that’s all you want, that’s fine. It’s between you and your dog. But if you want to have a real companion who loves doing “stuff” with you and has a big, happy life, you’ll strive for more. And make it look different when you get it.

Dog Training Game – Automatic Sit

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The “Automatic Sit!” is one of those games where you have to work a bit to make it fun. Remembering that your dog feeds off your energy – if you think it’s boring, it is. If you think it’s another fun game you can play together, it will be. 

What is an “Automatic Sit”? When you’re walking with your dog, every time you stop your dog sits. It’s simple. It’s easy. And it’s a habit that most people don’t bother to develop for their dogs. But it’s an important one, especially for city dwellers. If your dog sits every time you reach a curb, or a driveway, you know you have time to check traffic before moving on. Just that simple. And possibly life-saving.

First things first

Does your dog know the word “Sit!”? Most people will swear they do. But most people are wrong. Keeping in mind that dogs learn things in context, do a little test of your dog’s understanding. 

Your dog probably knows “Sit!” when you’re face-to-face. And you have a treat in your hand. You probably lift the treat up as you say “Sit!” Or you may simultaneously bring the treat up while you push on your dog’s butt. If any of that is familiar, you need to take the test. 

With your dog at your side, your hands empty of treats, and hanging straight, say “Sit!” to your dog. If they do it, that’s great! Your dog really knows the word. If they don’t, you’re allowed to look at your dog’s butt, but not repeat “Sit!” If they still don’t do it, you need to expand your dog’s understanding of “Sit!”

Easy peasy

Getting your dog to understand “Sit!” is simple. But you have to actually do it. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. If you enter a room and your dog is sitting, say “Good Sit!” Give them a treat. That’s it. If you say “Sit!” and your dog instantly does it, reward! Keep repeating the word “Sit!” when your dog’s doing it.

Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. The catch is you have to teach them. Unlike toddlers and children, dogs can’t pick up vocabulary by overhearing conversations or understanding context. Expanding your dog’s vocabulary requires your conscious decision to teach them. They’ll pick it up quickly, given the opportunity.

Once your dog’s “Sit!” is rock-solid, it’s time to take it a step further with the Automatic Sit!

Step at a time

This part’s easy, too. For one of your 2-Minute Training sessions, with your dog at your side, take a single step. Tell your dog “Sit!” when you stop. Take another single step. Say “Sit!” when you stop. Rinse and repeat. Single steps for just a minute or two. 

If your dog doesn’t do it immediately, or seems confused, just wait. Give them a chance to think. If the halt-step wedding-march is confusing for your dog, there are a couple things you can do to clear it up. Always start moving with the foot closest to the dog. This is an Obedience hack. If you move the foot closest to the dog first, they know they’re supposed to move with you. If you move the opposite foot first, they know to stay. Dogs are smart. 

You can also cue them when you start moving and when you stop. “Let’s Go!” even for the single step. And “Halt! Sit!” when you stop.

Always useful

That’s really all there is to teaching your dog the “Automatic Sit!” When your dog is doing great in your 2-Minute session, take the behavior with you on your next walk. At first, remind your dog to “Sit!” when you stop. And “Let’s Go!” when you start moving. Sitting at stops will become your dog’s good habit quickly.

2 Keys to good dog training

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The two qualities needed for successful dog training are patience and consistency. Good dog training isn’t fun to watch. That’s why lots of the dog trainers with huge numbers of views on social media are really awful trainers. Awful meaning violent, punishment-based, and full of noise and motion.

When one of our videos gets some traction on social media, one of the comments that pops up over and over is “can you do a video showing how to teach this?”

We could. But no one wants to watch somebody standing around looking at their dog. That’s what most of positive reinforcement training is. We’re teaching our dogs to think and make good decisions. We don’t tell them what to do, we present opportunities for them to try things and figure stuff out.

Patience and consistency

Good dog training requires patience and consistency, especially for a hard behavior like picking up an object.

Say you want to teach your dog to pick up an object – anything from the required-in-obedience dumbbell to a can of beer. Training starts with you putting the object in front of your dog and standing there staring at it. You wait for any interaction with the object (look, sniff, poke, move, lick) and when it happens, mark it (either with a click or a “Yes!”) and reward close to the object.

A couple of interactions with the object could be all you get the first time you show it to your dog. It takes time for your dog to realize the object has value. So that video is you standing there looking at your dog maybe looking at a thing. Not great video, but a good first step.

Short attention span

In this age of instant everything, advocating slow and steady is, at best, an outlier. That’s why your training sessions should be short. Hence, 2-Minute-Trainer. Staring at an object for two minutes while your dog thinks is okay. Longer than that? Deadly dull. And unproductive. 

Even active behaviors, like loose-leash walking, start with “nothing to see here.” First you teach your dog the basics of the game. Lots of treats for not much motion. Thinking is active, difficult, and intense. But not exciting to watch.

That’s why we write detailed descriptions of our dog training games. It only takes a second to read “Choose a three-word phrase. Say the third word five times, giving your dog a treat as you say the word.” Doing it, and having your dog love hearing the word, takes a bit of time. Doing it with your dog is fun. Watching someone else do it isn’t.

Patience pays

You and your dog can do any of the behaviors and tricks we show in our videos. Some tricks only take moments for dogs to learn, especially if it’s based on something they already know. Some of the tricks take weeks, or even months. The total time working on it may be less than half an hour, but that’s two minutes at a time, maybe once a week.

If a dog trainer promises fast results, it’s almost guaranteed to be punishment-based training. Yes, it’s faster. Yes, it works, sort of. Punishment-based training doesn’t change the dog’s behavior, it suppresses it. The classic example is the housebreaking scenario where the dog is punished for pooping when you find the poop. So they hide where they do it. They didn’t learn what you meant to teach. They learned to avoid punishment.

Great results

Patience and consistency will get you and your dog wherever you want to go. Sometimes the goal changes based on what you learn about your dog with your training games. You’ll probably lean into the things your dog really enjoys and learns quickly. The stuff neither of you truly cares about will be shuffled off to the side. 

You’ll know your dog better and you’ll have a bigger, happier life together when you play training games. And we hope you’ll send us the links to your end-product videos. Those are lots of fun to watch.

Pay your dog

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“Pay your dog!” is a phrase we use in every single class we teach. It seems that most people are worried their dogs will gain weight if they’re trained with treats. 

We hear it all the time. “That’s a lot of treats!” “When can I stop rewarding with food?” The constant objection is that dogs will get fat with reward-based training. A more thoughtful use of food would benefit the dogs. Rather than worry about the dogs gaining weight, see the advantage of using the dog’s most valuable currency to teach them.

Dogs will, absolutely reliably, do whatever’s most rewarding for them. Why not have a meeting of the minds and make what you want the most rewarding thing? Why would you refuse to use the tool that works best? 

For instance

This week one of our training game videos went a little viral. It’s Torque’s trick “Troll Under The Bridge.” Lots of people commented, more than we’ve ever seen. People seemed impressed, but “But will he do it without food?” was a pretty common question. Our reply is “Probably. But why should he?”

Let’s try a little perspective on the issue. Would you want to work without pay? Even if you love your job, your office, your colleagues. Would you still do the job for nothing? Most people will give a hard “No!” So why does anyone expect their dog to do their job without payment?

For your love

The answer we hear a lot is “But I pet him and tell him he’s a good dog! Isn’t that reward enough?” Again, put yourself in that position. A hearty pat on the back and “Good job!” is nice to get from your boss. But a bonus is better, more memorable, and means more to most of us.

If you’re worried about your dog gaining weight, remember it’s you who controls your dog’s calorie intake. There’s absolutely no reason you can’t make your dog’s regular food part of the “trail mix” of treats for training. When you measure out your dog’s food for the day, just put a scoop of it in a separate bowl. Mix in some higher-value, shelf-stable treats, and you have your training treats for the day. 

Not a lifetime commitment

When your dog is learning something new, is having trouble with something, or is particularly distracted, it’s a good idea to reward often and for smaller steps in training. The rate of reinforcement should be higher for new or more difficult games. 

Once a word is cemented in your dog’s vocabulary, you probably don’t have to reward them every time they do it. When dogs are learning our warm-up Puppy Pushups game, they get rewarded for every change of position. Once they’ve been playing a while and enjoy the game, the treats may come after several position changes. Randomizing rewards even becomes part of the interaction. Dogs trained with positive reinforcement will try all kinds of different things to get you to cough up the goodies. 

Establish a pattern

One of our students has a large, young dog in a house full of young children. To keep everyone safer, they decided early on that “Down!” was a very valuable behavior for their dog. If she was lying down, they didn’t have to worry about her jumping on the children or their friends. Every time the dog obeyed “Down!” she was rewarded.

Fast forward several months and “Down!” is the dog’s default behavior. It’s so firmly established in her mind that she’s “good” when she’s “Down!” that when she’s confused, or unsure what she’s supposed to do, she lies down. She’ll do it even when she doesn’t get a reward. Because she knows it’s a good thing to do and she values being good.

Dogs just want to be good

Given a choice, dogs want to do the right thing. They may not always know what that is. It’s our responsibility to teach them. Since dogs learn best through the timing and placement of rewards, it’s a no-brainer to use rewards to teach. 

If you’ve been stingy with the treats, think about why that’s so. Concern about weight is valid, but just one of the factors to consider. Find low calorie treats your dog likes (Popcorn? Carrots? Celery? Green Beans?). Use higher-calorie options sparingly, and use a portion of your dog’s regular food for training. 

There are certainly other rewards dogs find worthwhile, including toys and praise. But if your dog’s number one motivation is food, use it to accomplish your training goals. Pay your dog for work well done.

The timing of dog training

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This week in her Beginner Obedience class, Hope’s face had an unfortunate encounter with the nails of a seven-month old Labrador Retriever. She’ll be fine. So will her face. But it made us think about the timing of dog training. If this dog’s owner had started training when he was three months old, by now he would know how to greet politely. And if he had jumped on Hope (she’s only five feet tall), he wouldn’t have been able to reach her face. Or do as much damage.

When is the right time to start training your puppy or dog? The simple answer is “as soon as you come in the door.” Dogs are learning all the time. It’s up to you to make that learning purposeful. And fun. Something the two of you can do throughout the dog’s life to enrich your time together.

It’s not a chore

If you hated school, don’t let whatever negative baggage you have color your opinion of dog training. Dogs are for fun. Teaching them is fun. The way they learn best is by playing games. So, essentially, school for dogs is just playing games. You may be the dungeon master, but both of you should have fun playing the game. 

First, decide what’s most important for your dog to know. If you’re a hermit who never goes out and never has company, you probably don’t care if your dog jumps on people to say hi. For the rest of us, it should be right at the top of the curriculum. 

It’s easy, too. All you have to do is have everybody ignore the puppy (or dog) unless all four feet are on the floor. You don’t have to insist on a “Sit!” If you want it, it comes later. All you have to do is nothing. When the dog’s front feet are off the ground, just have people fold their arms and stare into the sky. As soon as those adorable little paws are all in contact with the ground, make a huge fuss over the puppy – pets, scritches, treats. Even a game of tug if there’s a toy nearby. It’s easy to see that the timing of dog training is not a big deal when it’s fun for everyone.

When a dog jumps on someone, they’re saying “Hi! I’m here! Pay attention to me!” If the dog doesn’t get what they want, they’ll try something else. When that something else gets them what they want, they’re more likely to do that again. What gets rewarded, gets repeated. It may take a few repetitions to work. And we know it’s hard to resist those puppy dog eyes. Do it anyway. That way when your dog is as tall as you, you won’t have to worry about them scratching up your guests’ faces. Or having to hang on to their collar for dear life so they don’t jump.

Class time

You already know that habit is the most powerful force in the universe. Gravity may be a close second, but that’s debatable. It’s easier to form a new habit with a dog than to try to break an established one. 

The point is; if you have a new-to-you dog, whether a puppy or an adult, start as you mean to continue. It may be adorable for a 15-pound puppy to jump on you, paw at you, or whine for attention. When the dog weighs 60 pounds, it’s not so cute. When Grandma comes over to visit, or your toddler nephew, there’s nothing cute about it. 

You should form a new habit, too. Pick a time for your training. Make a date with your dog every day right after you’ve had your coffee. You can use your dog’s breakfast for training treats. You get to smile at the start of the day. And your dog will be satisfied (food) and tired (had to think!) for the morning. 

Other end of the timeline

That habit will stand you in good stead for your dog’s entire lifetime. When your dog’s caught up on the house rules (house-breaking, jumping, crate training), you can spend every day playing the training games that are more fun; Ring Stacking, Put Your Toys Away, anything you come up with that makes you both happy. 

It never has to go away. Tango, Fran’s Brussels Griffon, will celebrate his 15th birthday this month. He decided to retire from the competition ring in Rally and Agility long ago – he wasn’t having fun. But every single day he still plays training games. He plays his Balance and Core Exercises. And he plays “Put Your Toys Away.” The timing of dog training for Tango is “all the time!”

Playing training games with your dog really isn’t about the training. It’s about the growth of your relationship with your dog, the understanding it builds between you, and giving your dog the biggest life you both can share.