reward-based training Archives

We Don’t Train Dogs. We Train People.

Spread the love

5 Common Training Mistakes & How to Fix Them

We don’t physically train any dogs but our own. Instead, we teach you how to train yours. There is nothing more satisfying than witnessing the “AHA!” moment when a human and dog finally coalesce into a team.

However, almost every handler we meet falls into at least one of these five common traps. Which one is your bad habit?

1. Being the “Boss” instead of the “Coach”

Merriam-Webster defines a Boss as one who directs or supervises workers. A Coach, however, is one who instructs or trains. You can shout “Heel!” until the cows come home, but if you haven’t taught your dog what that word means, you’re just making noise. Dog training is about bridging the language gap. All dogs are born knowing how to sit—they just don’t know the English word for it. Your job is to connect those dots.

2. “Helping” (Otherwise known as Nagging)

Your dog heard you the first time. Repeating a cue doesn’t help; it just teaches your dog they can ignore the first three versions of the command. The cue is “Down,” not “Down, Down… Down!”

Similarly, physically pushing a dog’s butt down often triggers the “opposition reflex.” Just like humans, when dogs feel a push, they instinctively push back. Give your dog the “processing time” they need to think through the request.

3. Being Stingy with Rewards

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. While you won’t always need a treat in your hand, the learning phase is not the time to be frugal.

The Rule: Ignore the “wrong” stuff and simply ask again. But when they get it right—especially something difficult—give them an immediate jackpot.

We often see students resist rewarding because they fear “spoiling” the dog. But without a reward, doing it right looks exactly like doing it wrong to a dog. Why would they bother?

4. Disengaging from the Team

This usually happens when a handler gets distracted or assumes the dog “just knows” what’s happening.

Even a simple move, like turning around to retrace your steps, can cause a disconnect. Catching your dog’s eye and saying, “We’re going this way!” keeps them in the loop. In practicing the “Recall,” people often hand us the leash and walk away without a word. Next time, try catching your dog’s eye before you leave. They might actually be watching when you finally call them.

5. Quitting on Your Dog

We have one student who is a perfectionist. If she gives the wrong hand signal, she gets frustrated and gives up. Her dog doesn’t know she’s mad at herself—he thinks he failed. That’s when he runs off to find something more fun to do.

Your dog thinks you’re perfect. Don’t convince them otherwise. We have a rule: if the human screws up, the dog gets an “Oops Cookie.” It keeps the mood light, rewards the dog for staying engaged with a confused human, and lets you both try again with a smile.

Enjoy the Journey

Great coaches are there for the whole season, through the wins and the muddy practices. Training is a lifetime journey of deepening your bond. Stay present, stay positive, and keep those cookies ready.

Which of these training mistakes do you find yourself making most often? Drop a comment below and let’s troubleshoot!

Stop Dead! The Simple Game to End Leash Pulling

Spread the love

When you were a little kid, your parents had to tie your shoes for you. Once you learned how to do it yourself, the grown-ups left you to it.

Your dog can’t tie shoes. But they can learn to walk politely on a loose leash. The hitch here is that you have to teach it in a way your dog will get the message and understand.

Breaking the Habit

If you’re just starting out with a puppy, the best way to teach loose-leash walking is to never let them start pulling. 3-Step Pattern Walking from day one works.

Teaching Pattern Walking to an older dog takes longer. Adult dogs have habits to overcome. If your dog already has a pulling habit, you may need a more immediate solution. That’s where the “Stop Dead!” game comes into play.

🛑 Before you start

The first time you play “Stop Dead!” you’re probably not going to get very far. It’s going to be tedious for you and frustrating for your dog. But it graphically demonstrates to your dog how they’re supposed to behave.

Keep it short and fun: Like all training games, brevity is key.
Gear up: Hook your dog up to their harness and head out.
High-Value Rewards: Prepare with plenty of delicious treats.

⏱️ Timing is crucial

As soon as the leash is taut – stop. That may be right when you go out the door. It could be when you hit the sidewalk. Or turn the corner. Or your dog sees a SQUIRREL. You have to be prepared to stop in your tracks whenever that leash gets tight.

The “Subway-Rider’s” Stance

Around here, everybody recognizes the “El” posture: legs slightly apart, knees bent and bouncy, ready to absorb the impact. Especially if you have a big dog, assume this position when you “Stop Dead!”

The Next Hard Part: Silence

Don’t cajole your dog. Don’t say “here, Fido” or wiggle a treat at them. This is the crucial point where your dog has to figure out what to do to get you moving again.

Stand firm as long as there’s tension in the leash.
Wait for the slack. As soon as the leash goes loose (because they turned to look at you or backed up), tell them they’re good.
Reward at your side. Offer the treat right next to your leg.
Resume walking. You can walk, praise, and offer treats all at the same time.

Dogs can chew while they’re walking. Both dogs and people can multi-task. This is the time.

Case Study: Katie & Oscar

Most dogs figure out quickly that they control forward motion. We have a student, Katie, with a five-year-old Rottweiler named Oscar who would pull like a tugboat.

The first time Katie “Stopped Dead,” Oscar was so surprised he came back to see what was wrong. He got a treat, and they walked… for about two steps. Then he pulled again.

The second time, Oscar strained forward for 30 seconds. It felt like an eternity to Katie, but she stayed silent. When Oscar finally turned his head to look at her, the leash went slack. That was the “Aha!” moment. Oscar got his treat, and the next stretch lasted six steps instead of two.

For the lesson to be effective, you can’t help your dog figure out what to do. They have to puzzle it out for themselves.

💡 Be Patient

There’s a lot of stop-and-go in this game. You aren’t going to be running any errands the first time you play. However, each successive time you play, you’ll get a bit farther. Eventually, your dog will figure out that pulling doesn’t work.

Hopefully, your dog will be rewarding you with a loose leash and a happy trot in no time!

The Doggy Paycheck: Why Your Pup Won’t Work for Free

Spread the love

Positive reinforcement training is based on one single premise: dogs will always, without exception, do what is most rewarding to them.

The focus of your training has to be making what you want the most rewarding option. Your choice has to be, in the dog’s opinion, the best thing available.

To convince your dog, you have to build a history. If your dog always gets rewarded for doing what you want, they’re more likely to continue doing it. They get their doggy paycheck every time they do what you want.

If, however, your rewards are inconsistent or absent, the dog has no reason to do what you want. There’s always something interesting to do. It may or may not be what you want them to do. The environment is your biggest competitor. If a squirrel is a $100 bill and your treat is a nickel, the squirrel wins every time.

Hierarchy of rewards

One of the first lessons of reward-based training is figuring out what’s valuable to your dog. You may want your dog to love the expensive, organic, healthy treats you bought. But you can’t make that love connection happen. In our classes we always have extra treats available for our students. The treats we provide aren’t healthy, good-for-dogs, or expensive. They’re the junk food french fries of dog treats. Because they work. Dogs love them.

We’re not saying you have to buy junk dog treats. We’re saying you have to find the rewards that your dog would (virtually) run through fire to get. Don’t be surprised if it’s something weird. One of our dogs would kill for celery. Another thinks celery is poisonous. It’s not our choice, it’s the dog’s.

Transfer of value

Let’s use Torque, the celery fiend, as our example. If he always gets celery when he does Puppy Push-ups, before long he’s going to get all excited to do them. In his little doggy brain, that incredibly yummy treat is paired with Puppy Push-ups. The value of the treat is associated with playing that awesome game. And he loves doing it.

Once your dog has made that pairing, your reward delivery can become more random. But it can’t go away forever. If it does, the behavior will, too.

Think of it this way: You love every single aspect of your job. Your work is fascinating. Your colleagues are awesome. You even get a catered lunch every day. Are you still going if you don’t get paid? Of course not. Your bargain with your employer is to complete assigned tasks in exchange for compensation.

Your dog gets the benefit of the same deal. Their task is to be a good dog. Their compensation (doggy paycheck) is the rewards you provide.

Just for the fun of it

You don’t have to reward your dog constantly for just being good. If they’re doing something you didn’t ask them to do, just a pat or a “good dog!” is fine, if you notice it.

But if you’ve told your dog to do something and they do it, that good behavior should be acknowledged. That’s good training and living up to your side of the deal.

Top 5 Dog Training Tips for 2025

Spread the love

What’s your mental picture of a well-trained dog? If it’s one of those impressively heel-hugging automatons garnering views on social media, this isn’t the training site for you.

If, on the other hand, you want an awesome companion who knows how to make good decisions, this is the place. The goal here is to teach you and your dog to be a team, whether competing in dog sports or just hanging out watching screens. It may not be an equal partnership. You’re always going to be the one making important life decisions and keeping food on the table (or in the bowl). But you will have an awesome junior partner.

Whatever training games you play, how often you play them, and what behaviors are most important to you, you decide. Keeping these five top dog training tips in mind will keep you on track, whatever your dog goals may be.

Pay your dog

You wouldn’t take a job that doesn’t pay. Don’t expect your dog to “work” for free. When they do something right, a reward lets them know.

The reward doesn’t always have to be food. But you don’t get to decide what’s rewarding to your dog. If you love chocolate, someone giving you a banana isn’t going to cut it. If your dog loves Chicken Heart Treats, a piece of kibble isn’t going to be highly rewarding. Tailor the treat to the dog’s taste.

Shut up

Almost everybody does it and it never works. Saying “Sit!” 12 times instead of once isn’t helpful. By all means encourage your dog and talk to them. But give them time to think and process what you say.

Dogs naturally love patterns. If you always say “Sit!” three times, your dog will think that’s the command. If you say it once and wait for your dog to do it (look at their butt, not their face), they’ll figure it out.

Be consistent

Each word and each hand signal can have only one meaning for your dog. It doesn’t matter what word or motion you use, as long as it’s the same every time you use it.

If you’re teaching your dog “Place!” you can call the “Place!” whatever you want. Our students have used “Mat!” and “Bed!” and assorted other words. Whatever word works for you is fine. But remember what it is and keep it the same.

Be clear

Decide what you want and stick to it. If you say “Sit!” and your dog lies down, don’t accept it. That’s not a “Sit!”

This is more than just being picky. Even if you don’t care whether your dog sits or downs, you’ll confuse your dog if you accept one for the other. They won’t know what either one means.

Half measures aren’t acceptable either. In competitive Obedience and Rally, “Down!” means that the dog’s elbows are on the ground. Setting specific criteria for behaviors actually helps your dog understand.

Have fun

Training is all about having fun with your dog. Play as many training games as you like, but keep each one short and fast. Your dog will look forward to playing with you. If you’re in a lousy mood, playing with your dog will improve your outlook and your day.

You’ll find your dog anticipating training games as the best part of your day. If you play at a specific time every day, your dog will come and find you when it’s time. Those few minutes of focused interaction will be their favorite time, every time. And keeping these 5 dog training tips in mind will help you make the most of every session.

Dog Training Game: Put On Your Collar

Spread the love

There’s one training game we use each and every day, multiple times each day. It’s not particularly exciting, or fun. But it has saved us a ton of aggravation. That’s “Put On Your Collar.”

It’s a simple thing. Just getting the dogs to stand still while we put on their collars or harnesses. Our dogs tend to be backer-uppers. When we approach them, they back up. Which is fine, as long as we’re trying to get somewhere. When we’re getting ready for a walk, it’s not so great. We would grab their collars from the wall hooks and, instead of coming near for us to put it on, they’d back up.

It’s not like they don’t want to go out. Unless it’s pouring rain, they’re all eager to explore the great outdoors. But they’re reluctant to have their outside “clothes” on. Truthfully, we don’t know how common the issue is because we’ve never really talked about it with either our training club buddies or our students. We suspect it’s fairly common, but have no proof.

Born of necessity

We were tired of chasing the dogs around to get collars on. It’s not like any of them object to wearing collars. They were just excited to go out. Which, especially with Boston Terriers, means they start doing zoomies around the house. A house which has a circular path through the rooms, making it impossible to catch a zooming Boston.

A word of warning: Don’t start training “Put On Your Collar” when you have somewhere to go by a certain time. It’s a patience game. Yours may be tested to the extreme.

Lots of waiting

Most people have a phrase they use to let their dogs know it’s time to go for a walk. Around here it’s “chewannagwout?” which starts a stampede for the door. Our dogs’ collars and leashes (hooked together) are on coat hooks by the door.

To start playing “Put On Your Collar,” just pick up your dog’s collar, open it, and hold it out. The goal is for your dog to come to you, stretch their neck out over the collar, and wait for you to fasten it.

The hardest part is waiting for your dog to do it. Don’t move. If you take steps toward your dog, they’ll back up. That’s the “Keep Away” game, even if it’s only a step at a time.

Your dog has to come near enough for you to fasten their collar. Say “Collar!” and hold it out. If they don’t, within a few seconds, just hang the collar/leash back on the hook. And do not lure your dog to come closer. It has to be their idea.

Our dogs just about melted down when the collars went back on the hooks. If yours does, too, pick up the collar, open, and hold it out again.

Be willing to do this multiple times over your short training session. Since you probably won’t make it out the door the first time, make sure your dog doesn’t have to eliminate before you start.

Reward every tiny step

It shouldn’t be too long before your dog actually hovers with their neck over the collar. Reward that little step. If your dog is truly reluctant, start rewarding them for staying in the vicinity, rather than running off. Small steps turn into complete behaviors. Reward for staying, for extending their neck, for waiting until the collar is fastened.

Be sure you use the word “Collar!” or whatever word you choose. Dogs like knowing what’s going on and familiar words and actions enhance communication.

When you return home after your walk, use “Collar!” again to take it off. Build the association between the object and the word. If you use a harness instead of a collar, the progression is the same. Reward for coming close, staying there, and every step involved in putting on the harness. You’ll use this behavior multiple times every week, if not daily. It’s worth the patience it takes to teach.

Walk This Way! Teach Your Dog the Fun “Sideways!” Game

Spread the love

Why does your dog need to walk sideways? The short answer is, they don’t. The good answer is that it increases body awareness, balance, and works some muscles your dog may not usually use. The best answer is that it’s fun!

Part of the package

Dogs (and people) have these great machines for doing all kinds of things. Bodies are pretty amazing. They function automatically for lots of things, like breathing and digesting. But there are some things they may not do unless they’re taught. Like building a strong core to keep us upright and functioning. And using legs for stuff other than walking or running.

Teaching your dog the Sideways! game goes along with games like “Paws & Boots” to get your dog moving in ways they may not do on their own.

Easy does it

All you need for “Sideways!” is some treats and your dog. It certainly helps if your dog knows a “Stand!” command, but it’s not crucial.

A woman standing perpendicular to a dog, which is also standing to demonstrate the positions for "Sideways!"

Stand perpendicular to your dog with one foot under their chest and your other foot in front of their front feet. Have some treats in the hand closest to your dog’s face. Show them the treat while you gently contact your dog’s ribs with your leg as you move slightly forward. This puts pressure on the dog for the sideways motion.

You can say “Sideways!” as you shuffle forward to keep your dog moving in that direction. Don’t try to cover much territory. You’re just trying to familiarize your dog with the idea that they can move to their side.

After a few steps sideways, go around to your dog’s other side and do it again. All one-sided training like “Sideways!” should be done on both sides.

Build on success

Just like us, if the dog is using “new” muscles, they may be sore the next day, so don’t try for any real distance at first. If you just get a couple of steps, that’s fine for an introduction.

Take note of your arm position when you’re playing “Sideways!” Once your dog catches on, you shouldn’t need to lure, but you can use that same hand/arm signal as a cue for your dog. Most dogs like going “Sideways!” so it’s both fitness and fun at the same time.

Holiday Dog Dilemma: When Your Dog Isn’t Party-Ready

Spread the love

“We can’t host Thanksgiving for the first time in decades!” One of our trainees was almost distraught at the thought. She loves her adopted rescue dog, but knows the dog isn’t party-ready. She has a holiday dog dilemma.

The dog is fearful around strangers, and will bark and snap.

She is helping the dog overcome his fear-aggression but realizes it’s a process that probably won’t meet her Thanksgiving deadline.

Dogs not invited

We love dogs and truly think the world would be a better place if everyone agreed with us. But we do recognize that dogs are only a part of our lives. Everyone has multiple priorities that require our time and attention. Family is first. And family traditions, like Thanksgiving, take precedence over dog training.

Just because dogs are members of the family doesn’t mean they have to be included in every family event. Especially when it would cause tremendous stress for both you and your dog.

Always another option

If our trainee’s event was only a single afternoon, it would be fine to confine the dog to a room far away from the festivities. If the dog is comfortable in a crate, use it. Turn on the television or a radio, give the dog a special treat, and leave the dog alone.

With a more extended event, if people are coming for several days, you can think about boarding the dog. There’s plenty of time between now and the holidays for you to check out boarding kennels near you, both their reputation online, and their physical facility. If possible, you can even book your dog in for a “practice” night.

Teaching party manners

Our student is relieved that she can continue both her family Thanksgiving and her pursuit of better socialization for her dog. Her goal is for her dog to be part of the festivities at home next year and avoid the holiday dog dilemma.

She’ll achieve this by building her dog’s army of “Cookie People,” both in her neighborhood and at home. She can enlist friends and neighbors to come over specifically for short dog-training sessions. It only takes a few minutes and does the dog a world of good to meet new people at home in a non-threatening way.

The objective isn’t for your dog to love everybody and be their best friend. It’s equally stressful if your dog jumps on your guests and won’t leave them alone.

The ideal is for your dog to say “Hi!” politely and then resume normal behavior. The dog shouldn’t be the life of the party.

Develop some “cookie people”

Spread the love

Some dogs are people-oriented and love everybody. Other dogs love a select few and are indifferent to anyone else. And then there are dogs who actively dislike anyone outside of their family and friends circle. These dogs can be challenging to live with, difficult to exercise, and impossible to bring anywhere with you. These are the dogs who most urgently need Cookie People.

The last kind of dog is also the one that might get labelled as “reactive.” While they may react rudely to strangers or unfamiliar situations, please don’t call them reactive. That word is often used interchangeably with “aggressive,” and that’s not the reputation you want your dog to have. Instead, if you must call them something, try using “excitable.” It conveys the same message, without the negative layer of meaning.

Toning down the conversation

Your dog falls into the “excitable” category if they bark at people for no reason, pull toward (or away) from strangers, and offer anti-social behaviors in new situations. In most cases, it’s probably fear-aggression. The dog is trying to act tough so no one knows how frightened they are. But we’ll never really know why. Instead, it’s up to us to teach the dog how to greet the world calmly.

One of the best techniques for chiseling away at the fear wall is to enlist an army of “Cookie People.” This may be well outside your comfort zone, but it’s necessary for your dog’s wellbeing. It’s easy enough. Just stick a bag full of your dog’s favorite treats in your pocket, leash up your dog, and go face the unsuspecting public.

Confronting strangers

The goal is to convince your dog that people are harmless. That means getting out there and talking to at least one person every day. While it can’t be the same person all the time, you should, at least for the first day, pre-arrange the encounter.

Call a friend and arrange to meet them somewhere in your neighborhood at a specific time and place. The friend should know the “script” for your encounter, which looks like this:

You and your dog are walking in the neighborhood. Up ahead, you see the fake “stranger” headed in your direction.

When you are within a few feet of each other, you ask the “stranger” if he/she will toss cookies to your dog.

The “stranger” agrees. You ask him/her not to look directly at the dog, just please toss a few treats (at least four, as many as 10) on the ground close to your dog. While tossing the treats, have a chat with the stranger, both of you ignoring the dog.

When the treats are all tossed, you and your dog say “goodbye” and continue on your walk, as does your fake “stranger.”

Rinse and repeat

If your dog is visibly upset, or won’t eat the treats, don’t push it. Don’t let the dog get close to the other person. Until their excitability is resolved, there could be trouble if your dog jumps on someone or causes them to trip.

If the dog won’t eat the treats today, try again tomorrow with better treats. This is an exercise in behavior modification and requires the treats your dog loves more than any others.

If, on the other hand, your dog was successful at disregarding the other person and enjoyed the treats thoroughly, it’s time to grow the behavior. Prepare to start confronting total strangers.

Socializing right

This socialization game is one we always play with new puppies or foster dogs in our lives. The pandemic caused some modifications in the original game, but it still works. We used to ask people if they would toss treats to our dog. When they agreed, we would just hand them a few treats. Nowadays, we pre-package a few treats in little plastic bags to give people who agree

It’s surprising how many people are willing to do you a favor, especially when you have a cute dog at your side. Since you aren’t asking for any interaction between the person and the dog, even some people who don’t like dogs will help you out. People who love dogs may be more of a problem. They may want to greet your dog, pet your dog, or deliver the treats by hand. Don’t let them. If you have to, admit that your dog is afraid of people and their behavior isn’t reliable. Make it clear that you’re in control. If the person tries to convince you they know better,, thank the person and leave. The last thing you need is someone putting pressure on your dog. If the person is too pushy, the dog may feel trapped and lash out.

Keep at it

Try to “meet” a few people every week. The more people who toss treats at your dog, the more your dog will be convinced that people are worth knowing.

We know that introverts are going to find this difficult. You can do it. Most people will be sympathetic and help. In the situation we know best, Fran’s dog Tango collected dozens of treat-tossers before he was at ease in new situations. Now, at 16 years old, he still adores some of his original Cookie People.

Training Game: On and Off

Spread the love

Sometimes we invent training games for dog sports, like Obedience or Rally. Some games are just for fun. Others, like “On and Off” are for keeping our dogs healthy, fit, and moving.

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque is now 10 years old. He’s been showing some instability in his back legs. Many Frenchie people have commented about it on our videos, asking if he has IVDD (Intervertebral Disc Disease), which is fairly common in French Bulldogs. It’s not that. Instead, Torque’s hips are the problem.

Torque has always been front-heavy. It’s just the way Frenchies, and all broad-chested dogs, are built. To compensate, especially because we play dog sports, Hope has taught her dog hind-end awareness. He knows how to back up and plays “Paws & Boots” regularly.

Losing ground

A few months ago, Torque began slipping going up a flight of stairs. We figured he’d strained something, so didn’t think too much about it. Until it became months of carrying a 30 lb. dog up and down, multiple times each day. So the wheels started to turn. What could we do to help him regain his thigh muscle tone and strength? The “On and Off” game was born.

We use a foam roller for this game. Hold it steady between your feet. Because it’s foam, it’s a slightly unstable surface and requires the dog to engage their core during the game. A strong core is important to keeping your dog fit and healthy, just as it benefits people.

Like any exercise focusing on a particular muscle group, aim for a gradual increase in the number of repetitions. If your dog has weakness in their hind end, or is older, don’t overdo it, especially at first. Just like people, dogs can get sore if they start to use any muscle that’s been unused in a while.

Just like it sounds

Holding the roller between your feet, invite your dog to put their front paws on top. Reward for success. If your dog doesn’t know “Paws Up!” or a similar command, you can lure this behavior at the start. Just hold the treat slightly above the dog’s nose and move it up and toward you. The dog should follow the movement of the treat. When the dog’s two front paws are on the roller, give the dog the treat and name the behavior. We call it “On!” but you can certainly use “Paws Up!” as you might for the Paws And Boots training game.

Have you taught your dog a release word? If so, you can use that to let your dog know it’s time to step off the roller. Or you can use “Off!” It’s a natural extension of the “Off!” game you taught your dog to stop them jumping on people.

Just a bit more

Repeat the “On and Off” a few times. Aim for five or so repetitions at first. If you’re trying to build up your dog’s hind end strength, try to add one or two repetitions each time you play. A couple times a week should be sufficient.

After less than a month of playing “On and Off,” we’re pleased to report that Torque is more confident going up stairs now. He’s only doing a couple at a time, but it’s better than none. Especially if you have small dogs, a full flight of stairs may be the equivalent of a three-story building to a person. Reward for any progress and each step forward.

Positive reinforcement works on people, too

Spread the love

We were fans of the tv show “The Big Bang Theory.” One episode featured a classic example of positive reinforcement training.

If you watched the show, you know that the primary characters, Leonard and Sheldon, were scientists. Sheldon, in generous terms, wasn’t adept at social interaction. In this episode, Leonard, his girlfriend Penny, and Sheldon are watching TV. When Penny talks over the program, Sheldon gets annoyed. He gives her a glare and she promises to be quiet. He offers her a chocolate. Penny’s phone rings and, after a glance at Sheldon, says she’ll go into the hall to talk. Sheldon offers her a chocolate.

Sheldon’s applying positive reinforcement to get what he wants. Leonard notices and says:

“Sheldon, you can’t train my girlfriend like a lab rat!”

Sheldon replies “Actually it turns out I can.”

Not a new concept

While most sources attribute positive reinforcement to B.F. Skinner’s development of operant conditioning in the 1930s, the concept is much, much older. Ever heard the proverb “You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar”? Ben Franklin’s Poor Richard’s Almanac cited it in 1844.

Positive reinforcement is one of the quadrants of operant conditioning. Explaining the other three would dive deep into weeds most people would rather not explore. If you, too, are nerdily interested, there’s lots to find. Have fun!

The point is that positive reinforcement works on people as well as dogs. Everybody is more interested and eager if they know their efforts will be appreciated. Sometimes that’s a simple “thank you!” or “well done!” And sometimes it’s a piece of chocolate.

Getting where you want to be

Research has proven that positive reinforcement works better for learning and retention than punishment-based training. “Reward-based dog training offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare,” according to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, which says there is no evidence that aversive practices are necessary for dog training or behavior modification.

It’s also true that positive reinforcement training requires time and patience. Having a background in correction-based training, we know that a few strong “collar pops” will probably stop a dog from pulling. It will also make the dog fear the collar and cause pain. Punishment-based trainers have euphemisms to describe what they do. “Collar pop” or “correction” sounds better than yanking on a dog’s collar to hurt them.

Getting a dog to understand what you want is like playing charades with an alien. You don’t have a common language, you can only communicate through motions and rewards. It takes time to reach understanding. Once your dog realizes that every little training game will be fun and rewarding, they’ll love those sessions.

Take a breath

It may take a while for the light bulb to turn on in your dog’s brain. You may get to a point where, after a week or two, you’re wondering if you’re doing something wrong or if you have the dumbest dog on the planet. That’s just about the time when you can expect your dog to come up with flashes of brilliance. Just when you’re starting to despair.

Sticking with short, fun training games isn’t a huge commitment. Devoting ten or 15 minutes a day to your dog should be something you look forward to. The best way to start the day is playing a couple games with your best friend. Just ask your dog.