Tag: reward-based training

Watch your body language when dog training

Most people in dog training classes don’t realize how carefully dogs watch your body language. They notice everything. Without realizing it, you could be sending your dog a message you don’t intend.

The one we see most often is in heeling exercises. Ideally, your dog’s shoulder should be about even with your left leg. Your dog’s job is to maintain that position whenever you’re heeling.

Many dogs lag a bit behind their people, especially when performing turns or circles with the dog on the outside of the curve. 

It’s perfectly natural. The dog has a longer path than yours when they’re on the outside. But it’s not what you want. Your dog should adjust their pace to maintain proper heel position.

But when the dog starts to lag, the person almost always glances back, over their shoulder, to see where the dog is. Their left shoulder moves back, and the dog notices that and lags even more.

Fix it

The cure for this is easy. Keep your shoulders straight and the dog will hustle to get up into the correct position. But remembering to do that takes some effort. That’s one of the reasons we encourage all our students to take video of their practice. Pay careful attention to the message your posture is communicating.

Another common body language cue also tells the dog “back up.” You can demonstrate this for yourself with any dog – even one who’s never done any obedient thing in their life. Call your dog to you. If they come nice and close in front of you, lean forward, just a little bit. Chances are they’ll back up immediately. That’s how sensitive your dog is to your body language. Even a slight lean is enough to make many dogs move.

Stay woes

Dogs’ responsiveness to our physical cues has caused many problems for people teaching their dogs to stay. At first, while the dog is learning, any motion on your part is enough to ruin your dog’s stay. Dogs have to be actively taught to ignore our motion when asked. 

Booker in a Stay.

When you start to teach your dog “Stay!,” don’t move. Just the hand rewarding the dog should be your only motion. Any twitch, glance, or lean can cue an untrained dog to move. Introduce motion gradually, after your dog has some inkling of what stay is about. If your dog is in front of you, just lean to one side or the other. When they can “Stay!” through your lean, take a baby step to either side. Then a real step. It really is a step-by-step process to be able to walk around your dog. 

Notice your motion

Smart dog owners will be able to take advantage of their dog’s body language perception. We use very subtle cues to let our dogs know their positioning isn’t quite right. If the dog is coming to “Heel!” and stops a bit too far back, a little shoulder twitch tells them to move up. A weight-shift from one side to the other corrects their course on a Recall. 

For many of the training games, your first cue to your dog is looking at the object, whether it’s a dog bed for “Place!” or your own hand for “Touch!” Your attention to that thing will draw your dog’s. Another easy experiment: Stare at the ceiling. It won’t take long before your dog is looking up, too!

Dog Training’s Hardest Part

Waiting is dog training’s hardest part. 

It’s also the most important part. If you can’t resist temptation and tell your dog what to do, the dog will never figure it out on their own. You’ll spend the dog’s entire life telling them. 

That gets old after a while. You start to think to yourself “Why doesn’t my dog know this by now? We’ve been doing it the same way for years!” It’s because you never gave your dog the gift of letting them think it through.

Perfect example

Booker in his "place!"

Teaching dogs the “Place!” Game is where we see it most often in our classes. No question, it’s hard to just stand there, staring at a mat. Sometimes the dog doesn’t even look at it during class. The people get discouraged and say “Can’t I just tell him?” “Can I point to it?” 

No. No you can’t. Because the whole point of the game is for the dog to figure out that their action triggers the jackpot. When they choose to look at the mat, sniff the mat, step on the mat, sit on the mat, lie down on the mat, the treats rain down.

Once they do figure it out for themselves, your life gets easier. When you need the dog out of the way for any reason, whether it’s the pizza delivery guy at the door, or Grandpa halt-stepping through the room, your dog will understand what to do when you say “Place!”

So just wait. Stare at the darn mat for the whole training session. The dog may not get it today. But at some point, they’ll wonder what’s so fascinating about that thing. They’ll start interacting with it. And once the treats start falling from above, the lesson will be well on its way.

Opposite side of the coin

It’s difficult to wait for the dog to do something. It’s just as hard to exercise patience for them to stop doing something. But you can’t teach a dog “don’t.” You can reward the behavior you want. 

Let’s use jumping on people as our example. Most people just grab their dog’s collar and haul them away, apologizing to the jumpee all the while. They’ve stopped the current problem, but done nothing to teach the dog what to do. 

Instead, if you have a cooperative jumpee, set up the situation. While the dog is being rude and trying to get in the person’s face, what if everybody ignored the behavior and stared at the ceiling. Then, the instant the dog has all four paws on the ground, the dog gets rewarded and lots of attention. Just a few repetitions and most dogs catch on. If the dog gets even more treats and pets for sitting, they’ll probably choose to sit.

Thinking creatures

Think about it this way. If you think your dog is smart, they probably are. They’re also probably lazy. Which means they’ll happily foist off the chore of thinking if you let them. Thinking requires effort. Why should they do the work when you’re right there to do it for them?

The irony here is that once dogs do learn to think and make good choices, it snowballs. Dogs love solving puzzles, playing training games, and figuring stuff out. That first time you just wait them out will be rewarded many times over through your years together. 

Dog training’s hardest part, like many things in life, is worth the payout. You can continue to do things the easy way and always tell your dog what to do. But in the long run, it’s easier on both of you if your dog actually knows what to do. 

Foundation dog games #7: Off!

“Off!” Is the word you’ll use for everything from jumping on people to counter-surfing. The actual meaning of the word “Off!” for your dog will be “four paws on the floor.” That’s too much of a mouthful for you to spit out automatically when you need it.

It also may require that you do some practicing and retraining yourself. You know dogs can only assign one meaning per word. So if you’re saying “Down!” when your dog is up on something (or someone), stop it. “Down!” means lie down. It can’t mean both. 

Clear as mud

Like all behavior modification games, you have to set up the scenario. It’s not impossible to train dogs on the fly, but it’s difficult and unclear. If you’re trying to teach “Off!” when guests are arriving for a party, it’s not going to work. You’ll be distracted, not focused on training your dog. It’s just not the time, so don’t waste your breath and effort. Just put your dog on leash and manage the situation.

Devote some 2-Minute Dog Training sessions to the “Off!” Game prior to that party, if there’s time. It’s pretty easy and most dogs catch on quickly.

How to play

Get some incredibly yummy treats your dog can’t resist. This is the time to pull out the hot dogs, or cheese. Start by pulling out a chair or stool that your dog has to get on hind legs to reach the seat. Pile a bunch of those yummy treats in the middle of the seat, covered with your hand. Make it the hand farther from the dog that’s doing the covering. 

Simon learning "Off!"

If the treats are tempting enough, your dog will jump and put front paws on the seat. Don’t say anything. Don’t do anything. This is where you have to be patient. When your dog can’t get to the treats, they’ll eventually drop down with all four feet on the floor. Say “Good Off!” and give the dog one of the treats from under your hand. Keep one hand covering the treats and use the other hand to reward the dog. It has to be the dog’s decision to get “Off!” the chair.  Remember that “Off!” means four paws on the floor.

If you intervene and always tell your dog what to do when they misbehave, you’ll always have to. It takes time and patience to teach your dog to make good decisions. It’s worth it. Actually letting the dog decide to be “good” will last a lifetime. As opposed to saying “Off!” endlessly and hauling on the dog’s collar every time somebody comes over for the rest of the dog’s life. 

Set up the game

It won’t take long before your dog knows they’re being “set up” when you pile treats on that chair. Dogs are pretty smart that way. When your dog just sits and looks at you when you put those treats on the chair, it’s time to change the game. 

If your dog is tall enough to reach a table or counter, play the game the same way in those places. Or put the treats in a bowl on the chair. Move the chair into a different room. Change the scenario so the dog understands that “Off!” is always “four on the floor.” 

Simon doing his version of counter-surfing

If counter-surfing is an issue in your house, set up your “Off!” Game to mimic when that happens. If your dog tries to “help” when you’re at the counter preparing food, set up the scene. Have some treats handy and get out your cutting board, cutlery, etc. Cut up some food. If your dog’s paws get on the counter, stop what you’re doing, cover up the prep area by shielding it with your arms and torso. Don’t say anything. Don’t do anything. Wait for your dog to get “Off!” When they do, reward immediately and use that word: “That’s Off!” “Good Off!” “I like your Off!”

Most people say “Good Boy!” Or “Good Girl!” It’s nice, your dog likes it, but it’s not teaching them the word you want them to know. Try to remember to use the word you’re teaching. 

Grow the behavior

If jumping on people is your dog’s issue, you’ll need a volunteer to help you teach this expansion of “Off!” Set up the situation where your dog usually jumps on a person, and re-create it with your volunteer. 

Hope in statue-mode, with Simon learning "Off!"

You stand by, ready with those yummy treats. When the dog jumps up on the person, have them stop moving, cross their arms at their chest, and stare at the ceiling. Again, don’t either of you say anything, or do anything. Just be still. When the dog gets all four paws on the floor, you and your volunteer can start petting and talking to the dog, remembering to say “Good Off!” This is often sufficient reward – the dog was asking for attention. You can also give a treat for “Off!”

Most dogs will jump right back up on the person as soon as that person moves. Your volunteer should immediately go into statue mode – arms folded, staring at the ceiling. How many times? As many as it takes to convey the message to the dog. Or until that training session’s time is up. How long it takes will vary widely from dog to dog. Some get it right away. Others have to be convinced over time.

Be consistent: “Off!” means four paws on the floor every time

Lots of people like to teach their dog to jump up on them when asked. They’ll pat their chest and say “Up! Up!” That’s perfectly fine. It doesn’t interfere with learning “Off!” because it’s a trained, invited behavior. It may actually help the dog understand the difference.

If “Off!” means four paws on the floor, don’t ask for more than that. Your dog doesn’t have to “Sit!” as part of “Off!” Acknowledge and reward the “Off!” before moving on to other commands. Reward good decisions as your dog makes them. You’ll discover it leads to more and more of those good choices.

Foundation Dog Game #6: Collar Grab Game

There are three essential dog training commands that can save your dog’s life; “Drop it!”, “Stay!,” and “Come!” The recall, or “Come!” command has a twist to it. It’s one thing to get your dog to come close to you. It’s another to actually be able to catch hold of the dog. That’s where the “Collar Grab Game” comes in handy. It’s one of the first games we teach our own dogs and our Puppy and Beginner classes. It rewards dogs for letting you get a grip on them. And it teaches them that your hold isn’t the end of the fun.

One absolute imperative for having a reliable Recall: Never call your dog to you for something they don’t like.. If your dog hates getting a bath and you call them to “come get a treat” and you shove them in the tub, the dog knows you’re a liar and won’t come again. Don’t lie to your dog. If you have to do something your dog doesn’t like – go get them. 

The second warning about the Recall – always reward your dog for coming to you. Even if you’ve been calling for ten minutes and you’re frustrated as anything by the time they show up. The reward doesn’t have to be a treat – it can be a game of tug, or a scratch behind the ears, or praise. One of our first dog training teachers pounded it into our heads: If you’ve called your dog a hundred times and they come on the 101st, reward them. Give your dog a reason to “Come!” every single time.

Playing the Collar Grab Game

Simon the Boston Terrier playing the Collar Grab game

The Collar Grab Game is one of the simplest to explain. Basically, everybody in the household has a bunch of treats and you all stand in a circle. One person calls the dog, doing whatever it takes to get the dog to come to them (clap, whistle, run a little bit away, get down on hands and knees, talk like Yoda, etc.). When the dog is within reach, one hand grabs the dog’s collar while the other hand sticks a treat in the dog’s mouth. Then that person lets go and another person calls. 

It’s the mechanics of the game that sometimes fouls people up. It is essential that the collar grab comes before the treat. And it’s vital that the person calling doesn’t wave a treat at the dog to get them to come. We’re rewarding the dog for coming, not luring them to come.

That part’s important because you may not have a treat when you really need your dog to come. Like when somebody accidentally leaves the gate open and your dog is headed for the street. If you lure the dog to come, you’re creating a “show me the money” behavior. Instead, teach your dog that when they come, there will always be a reward coming. 

Let them go

As soon as the treat’s delivered to the dog, let go of the collar and the next person should call. Again, do whatever it takes to get the dog to come. Try to randomize who calls next, if you have more than two people. We want the dog to respond to their name, not just go around the circle for treats. 

Like all training games, only play for a maximum of five minutes. It’s especially important to quit while the dog’s still having fun and wants to keep playing. They’ll be eager to play the next time your household forms a circle. 

Everlasting game

A last warning about the Collar Grab Game. As mentioned, our dogs have known this game forever. Their ages are now 15, 11, 9, and 6. And they still run back and forth between us, trying to get us to play. It usually works. The Collar Grab game is a forever game.

Foundation Dog Games #5: Puppy Push-ups

Puppy Push-ups is our absolute favorite dog training game. Every class we teach, from Puppy Basics to Competition Obedience, starts with everybody doing Puppy Push-ups with their dogs. 

Why? The game is fast. It’s fun. And, it’s the best game for teaching dogs the position words. Dogs love it because there’s a high rate of reward. And everyone who interacts with your dog will love that your dog knows Puppy Push-ups.

What is Puppy Push-ups?

Puppy Push-ups is just a random, rapid sequence of “Sit!”, “Stand”, and “Down.” The faster you play, the more fun it is for everyone. 

Most Puppy Push-ups games alternate only between “Sit!” And “Down!” With only two positions to choose from, dogs may not understand the words. They just know if it’s not this one, it’s that one. By adding the “Stand!” To the mix, your dog actually listens. They learn which word means what. Most dogs aren’t taught “Stand!” But we don’t know why. Your dog’s groomer and veterinarian will love it. And so will you.

How to teach the positions

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. In this case, they already know “how,” so that’s not a problem. What we have to teach is associating the word with the position. 

This is one of the few cases where we actually will lure the dog in order to get them to move into the right position. This is where the timing and placement of rewards comes in.

One of the Puppy Push-ups positions: Sit!

For the “Sit!”, hold a treat at your dog’s nose and slowly move it up and slightly back. Dog’s anatomy dictates that when the head comes up, the butt goes down. As your dog’s butt hits the floor, tell them it’s a “good Sit!” Or “That’s Sit!” Be sure you use the position word “Sit!” Almost everyone says “Good girl (or boy)!” Instead of “good Sit!” To teach the word you have to use the word.

For the “Stand!” hold a treat at your dog’s standing nose level and slowly move it away from your dog, keeping it at the same level. Most people move too quickly and don’t give their dogs a chance to get their hind end moving. Be patient. Hold the treat level and steady, but don’t give it to the dog until they’re actually standing. Same deal – be sure to say “Good Stand!” Not “Good Dog!”

“Down!” Is rewarded between the dog’s front legs as they’re lying on the floor. Again, start at the dog’s nose level and slowly bring it down to the floor. Be patient – stay exactly where you are until your dog is actually lying down. 

What could go wrong

The most common issue is the dog not sustaining any position after the reward is delivered. Avoid this “one and done” syndrome by giving your dog multiple rewards for maintaining the position. Have two or three treats ready. If your dog stays in position, keep rewarding and saying “That’s Sit!” Or “Good Sit!” (Or Stand! or Down!). Then either give them another position or say their release word. 

At first, give your dog a reward for every single position change. And as your dog learns the game, speed it up. The faster it goes, the better. It gets more fun for both of you. Be sure to randomize the three positions. It will show you whether your dog truly knows the words or if they need more practice.

That practice is easily incorporated into your daily life. Have a container of treats in every room in the house. When you enter a room, notice what your dog is doing, name it and reward it. It won’t take long for your dog to learn the words.

Throw in some curves

Once you’re pretty sure your dog knows Puppy Push-ups, you can start changing it up to keep it new and interesting. Try it with your dog beside you. Or between your legs. Even try it with your dog behind you. Build distance. How far away can you be and still have your dog do their Push-ups?

Dogs start loving this game pretty easily. They don’t have to do anything scary or new. They get lots of treats. And it makes you happy. 

You can use Puppy Push-ups anywhere and anytime you need your dog’s attention. Or when you want them to switch gears into “work” mode. That’s why it’s a great start for every dog training class.

Foundation Dog Games #4: 3 – Step Pattern Walking

3-Step Pattern Walking is the dog training game that fixes people’s number one complaint about their dogs – pulling on leash.

The longer your dog has been practicing pulling, the more ingrained the habit. And, honestly, most dogs like pulling – even if it makes them choke. The logic of it is simple. With a tight leash, the dog doesn’t have to pay attention to you. They know exactly where you are. Which frees up your dog to check out everything in the environment.

Changing the rules

Since habit is powerful, you’re not going to try to change it. Instead, 3-Step Pattern Walking gives you and your dog a new way of walking. Rather than breaking a habit, it’s a new way of going for walks.

We’re not going to lie. How long it takes to work, or whether it works at all, is entirely on you.You can’t skip ahead or move forward before your dog’s ready. But if changing the behavior matters to you, and you work the process, it works like a charm.

First step

Choose a three-word phrase you can easily remember. Most people use 1-2-3, or A-B-C. The most creative one has been “Coffee, Tea, Wine.”

Don’t make it specific to this dog, or use your dog’s name. Once you see how well this works, you’ll use it for every dog you have in your lifetime. Keep it simple and easy to say.

Once you’ve decided on your three word phrase, Get a bunch of high-value treats and your dog. Take five treats. Say only the third word in your sequence and give your dog a treat. Don’t ask your dog to do anything. They don’t have to sit, or look at you, or do anything. They’re getting a treat when they hear the word.

What you’re doing is making that third word the most valuable word in the world to your dog. EVERY SINGLE TIME they hear that word, they get a treat. No exceptions. And, at this point, no demands on their behavior.

Next Steps

Take another five treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. On the third word, give the dog a treat. 

Most people can predict what’s coming next. Say the entire three-word phrase and give your dog a treat on the third word. It does help if you make that third word more exciting. Your dog has now gotten 15 treats when they hear your third word. That word is starting to sound pretty amazing to your dog.

That’s it for the first session. You’re just introducing the phrase and its value to your dog. 

Do it again

The next session, do exactly the same thing. Your third word is starting to become a jackpot for your dog. If your dog’s head isn’t whipping around to look at you when you say that third word, stay here. Get better treats. We want your dog to perk up and be excited to hear that third word.

If your dog starts to drool at the second word, it’s time to move ahead. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. So it’s time to teach them where they’ll get that third-word reward. Hold the treat at the side of your leg. You’ll do the same thing, five treats each for word three, words two-three, and one-two-three. But the difference is the dog must come to the side of your leg to get the treat. 

Time to move

Reward by the side of your leg in 3-step pattern walking

When your dog understands when (word three) and where (by your leg) they get rewarded, it’s time to put the pattern in motion. At first, one step for each word in the phrase. Keep your hands at your waist, just bringing the treat hand (the one closest to the dog) down on the third word. Don’t keep the treat in front of your dog’s nose. We’re rewarding, not luring.

When your dog reliably comes to the reward zone, or stays by your side as you walk and repeat the phrase, you can move on. Speed it up, take it out on walks. 

Don’t expect your dog to pay attention to the game for more than a few minutes at a time. If you’re walking in your neighborhood, with lots of distractions, use it only for two or three repetitions. Before you start, get your dog’s attention with “Touch!” Don’t just start yelling your dog’s 3-word phrase when they’re yanking you down the street. Stop, get some focus, then start.

Practice makes a new habit

We’re overlying a new habit on your dog’s previous behavior with this foundation game of 3-Step Pattern Walking. It takes time to form a new habit, so be patient and consistent. The result is worth it. Making every outing with your dog a nice walk in the park.

Foundation Dog Games #3: Touch!

“Touch!” is the dog training game we use most often. It’s a fast, fun game. No special equipment, nothing but your hands, some treats, and your dog. The more you play it, the more useful “Touch!” becomes. Make it your dog’s favorite game – you’ll be happy you did.

We’ve seen “Touch!” played a few different ways, with varying results. The version we use really emphasizes the mechanics of the game. It makes a difference when you want to sustain the game longer than a single touch. 

It’s one thing to grab your dog’s attention momentarily when there’s a bicycle flying down the walking path next to you. It’s another when you need to keep your dog’s mind occupied while sitting in the veterinarian’s waiting room with a cat in a carrier across the aisle. Our version of “Touch!” is useful in either case.

Timing is everything

Basically, “Touch!” is just holding out your hand and your dog touches it with their nose. Sounds easy, and it is. The tricky part, if there is one, is keeping the dog doing it. It’s the last place you want your dog displaying “one and done” syndrome.

Remember that dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. That translates to being very conscious of what you’re doing and how you’re doing it. You don’t have to worry that you’ll break your dog, or ruin the game irretrievably. Getting it “wrong” just means you might confuse your dog and it may take an extra 2-Minute session or two for them to get it. Relax and have fun.

Focus on procedure

To play “Touch!”, hold your hand, palm out, in front of your leg at the level of your dog’s nose. It doesn’t matter which hand, or which leg. You’ll be manipulating the treats with the other hand, so it’s probably smart to offer the palm of your non-dominant hand to your dog. 

Hold your palm-out hand right there. Don’t ever move it in this game. Pretend it’s surgically attached to your leg and does not move. Again – the open palm facing your dog does not move during the game. Ever.

In case the emphasis and repetition don’t clue you in, this is the part of the game that almost everyone screws up when they’re learning how to play. That open palm is waggling all over the place, bopping into the dog’s face, curling around a treat, shifting to keep it in the dog’s sight. Again – the open hand that your dog needs to touch Does Not Move. 

When your dog interacts with the palm in any way (looks at it, sniffs it, licks it, touches it with their nose), use the other hand to bring a treat to the palm and give it to your dog. You can say “Good Touch!” if the dog did it. Otherwise, just stay quiet. Do Not Move The Open Hand. Just leave it there. Wait for your dog. Be patient.

Note: if your dog paws at your hand, don’t reward it. We’re being specific that the dog’s nose has to “Touch!” If this game looks a little like “Gimme Your Paw” to your dog, that’s understandable. When you play “Gimme Your Paw,” use a cupped hand, rather than a flat, open palm so your dog will understand the difference. You can start, like Hope did with Simon, seated cross-legged on the floor and your arm resting on your knee

Sustaining the “Touch!” behavior

As long as your open hand remains in place, your dog should keep touching it. Reward every single touch. Because the rate of reward is high for this game, dogs tend to learn it quickly and love playing it. Don’t be stingy with the treats. We want this game to have high interest and value for your dog so you can rely on their response when you need it. 

There really isn’t any next step. You put your palm out, your dog touches it, deliver a reward with the other hand, using the open palm as a target for the treat. Give the dog the treat – don’t drop it in your open palm (which would require moving that hand, which you shouldn’t do). You deliver it to the dog near the open palm. It can look and feel a little awkward, but it’s the way to explain the game to the dog. Remember dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. This is the placement part. It matters.

Play often, wherever

Because this is a go-to game in all kinds of stressful situations, be sure to play it often. Play it in every room, outside, in the car, at the pet store – wherever you and your dog go together. To keep your dog’s interest and love of the game at the highest level, don’t even try to slack off on the rewards. If every single “Touch!” gets rewarded, your dog will, reliably, “Touch!” when you ask them to.

If you keep the “Touch!” game valuable to your dog, they’ll respond when you need them to. Like when you let them out in the yard late at night for last walks and see the skunk ambling across. If your dog dashes over to “Touch!” you may not have to make a midnight run to the store for tomato juice.

The Dog Name Game

Fundamental Dog Training Games 
1st of 7 in the series

The first, most foundational game your dog should learn is the Dog Name Game. It’s just like it sounds – your dog needs to know his/her name.

A friend of ours totally solved the issue. Realizing she and her husband invariably called their dogs “buddy” instead of their names, she named her new puppy Buddy. It works. He knows his name and responds without fail.

New cast of characters

A dog training student of ours recently adopted an adult dog from a shelter. The dog knew absolutely nothing when they got him, including the name the shelter gave him. Most rescues and shelters we know assign new names to dogs they take in. If the dog’s original name is known, they will try to use a variant that the dog may recognize. Most times, it means little, if anything, to the dog. 

That has to change. Whatever your dog’s age or where you got them from, the first thing they need to know is their name. When you say your dog’s name, their head should whip around toward you and their expression should be “What fun are we going to have now?”

Choose a good one

You can call your dog whatever you want. It’s probably the only circumstance where your opinion is the only one that matters. If you plan to compete in dog sports, it’s a good idea to choose something short, easy to say, and distinct. There’s a good reason that “Bella” and “Max” were the most popular dog names last year. They both fit the bill.

Over time, your dog will acquire all kinds of nicknames, from riffs on their actual name to sobriquets like “Knucklehead.” As long as you and your dog both know and like it, it’s fine. 

Change can be good

What if your dog arrived with a name you don’t like? Change it! If everything in the dog’s life is new, why not their name? It’s just as easy to play the dog name game with a new name as an old. You’ll be adding value to the name you choose.

If it’s a puppy, they’ll probably respond to anything anybody says, as long as they use an exciting voice. There is a special intonation people use for babies of all species. Try it out, looking at a picture of a cute puppy. Listen to yourself and keep that voice in mind when you play the Name Game.

How to play

The Name Game takes a little preparation. Buy a bunch of lidded small containers if you don’t already have them. Make a treat “trail mix,” with all kinds of dry treats your dog likes. You can mix kibble, cereal, freeze-dried meat, jerky, etc. We’ve talked about great dog training treats before, but the idea of the mix is that your dog never knows what’s coming next. There’s always the excitement of anticipation.

Fill the containers and distribute them around the house – one in every room. That includes the bathroom if your dog is in the habit of following you there, too. You’re not alone – most dogs do.

Now you’re ready to play the Name Game. 

Just that easy

All you do is say your dog’s name and, when they look at you, give them a treat. That’s it. They don’t have to do anything else. If you’re playing the Name Game, don’t ask them to sit before they get the treat. This isn’t about “Sit!” All they have to do is look at you.

Your dog will learn rapidly that responding to their name is always rewarded. Try not to say it when you don’t have a treat ready. Or if you’re annoyed. Use the happy-puppy tone. 

Remember when your mother used your whole name? And the tone she used for it? Don’t do that to your dog. If your dog has done something naughty, try not to use their name. It’s the one word you absolutely don’t want to poison by associating it with something unpleasant.

Always happy to hear it

Preserve your dog’s name for happiness. It has to be a trust word. Whenever you say it, good things happen. 

It doesn’t take long for dogs to learn their names playing this game. For all those saying “My dog doesn’t pay attention!” this is the game that turns that around. You can absolutely get and keep your dog’s focus, if you make it worthwhile.

The best dog training treats

It’s the question that gets asked on social media more than any other – “What training treats are you using?” The answer is simple: the best dog training treats are the ones your dog likes.

Of course dogs’ tastes range widely. There are treats the dog will eat, treats they’ll move to get, and treats the dogs will run through fire to get. The value of any food reward depends on the dog. It’s up to you to discover your dog’s treat hierarchy.

Start with the basics

How eagerly does your dog eat their regular food? If it’s a dry commercial food and your dog devours it, you’re in great shape. It’s the foundation for a “trail mix” of treats that will make your dog happy.

If your dog isn’t an eager eater, it’s more of an issue. In all honesty, we have no experience with dogs that don’t devour their food. For us, a dog refusing to eat is on his/her way to the veterinarian without much lag time. Based on what we know about dogs, if your dog is a reluctant eater, there are a few possibilities:

  • The dog just doesn’t like the food. The fix for this is to try different varieties until you come up with one the dog likes. Give each kind a fair test. Switching constantly may have your dog refusing food until they’re given something “better.” That’s a different kind of trouble.
  • There’s something wrong with the dog. Over the years we’ve had dogs with ulcers and acid reflux, so had to adjust their food and feeding schedule. 
  • The dog isn’t hungry because it’s overfed. If you adhere to the amounts on most commercial dog food packages, your dog is stuffed to the gills.  

Your dog’s regular food is the base of the treat hierarchy. Working your way up from there, the next tier of the hierarchy, includes treats the dog likes and will get up off their butt to reach. This would include many of the commercial dog treats available. It can also include things like cereal (most dogs like the O-shaped oat cereal. Our dogs prefer the honey-nut flavor.), air-popped popcorn, carrots, apple, celery (Torque’s favorite), and green beans (either fresh or frozen).

Moving up the list to treats dogs adore. These are usually things like Chicken Heart Treats, freeze-dried liver, bits of cheese, hot dog, french fries, peanut butter. These treats are the ones your dog would run through fire to get. They’re also the ones that should be given sparingly, especially if your dog has a sensitive stomach. For soft things, like peanut butter or cream cheese, let your dog lick them off the end of a spoon. It takes a little manipulation, but if that’s what your dog likes, you’ll figure it out.

Make a “trail mix”

When you’re training your dog, every room in the house should have a covered container of dog treats. Mix up a big bowl of dry treats from all three tiers of your dog’s hierarchy. Put portions of that mixture in the containers, so you always have treats available. If you have a container sitting on the shelf, you can grab it when the television commercial break starts and complete a whole training game before the show comes back. When it’s easy, you’re more likely to do it.

If the trail mix has a variety of treats in it, your dog will always be hopefully that the A-list treat is up next. They’ll be happy to play with you regardless, but the variety makes it more fun and interesting for your dog.

Rule of treats

For a training class, or when you’re playing a new-to-you training game, the treats should be top-tier, pinnacle level. It keeps your dog interested and attentive, even if their classmates are barking their fool heads off. Or if they don’t understand the new game yet and are getting a little frustrated.

In these scenarios, the treat slogan is “soft, small, and smelly.” Soft, so the dog doesn’t leave crumbs all over and stop to clean up the floor. Small, so they’re less than a full bite and your dog won’t get full. Smelly so the dog knows exactly what you have and is eager to get it.

Best dog training treats

It may take a little time and effort to define your dog’s treat hierarchy. You’ll know which treats your dog like best by how quickly they respond during your training games. There’s no universal “best” dog training treats. It’s up to your dog, and you, to discover what works for your team.

How to stop your dog counter surfing

When cute little puppies grow tall enough, or clever enough, they discover the joys of counter surfing. Since dogs reliably choose to do what’s most rewarding for them, if they find anything on that counter, they’ll do it again. And again. As long as there are treasures to find, the dog will keep finding them. We imagine there are quite a few family holiday stories that feature a naughty dog stealing some of the featured feast off the table or counter. It may be funny and fondly remembered over the years. But it’s not fun at the time. Not to mention panic-inducing, if it was the centerpiece turkey that’s gone down the dog. Stop your dog counter surfing forever.

Nip it in the bud

Ideally there will be absolutely nothing on the counter the dog finds attractive. If they try counter surfing and get nothing, they have no reason to try again. 

Don’t assume that because your dog can’t reach the counter they can’t steal stuff from it. The memory of Hope’s French Bulldog Teddy up on the kitchen counter is burned into our memories. He stood 12 inches tall. The standard counter height is 36 inches. Did he jump? No. He got onto the kitchen chair. Climbed from there onto the table, and then across to the counter. He only did it once (that we know of), but it’s legendary in the family.

Realistically, few of us can completely clear counters, table tops, and other flat, reachable surfaces. Even in the throes of training a new dog, you still have to live your life. Until your dog gets the message, if you can’t completely contain the stuff, contain the dog. 

If the counter-surfing canine only has access to the attractive surfaces when you’re there, you can use every interaction as a training opportunity.

Send the message

To counter counter-surfing, set up the scenario. Have a dog bed nearby. Stand at your regular cooking position and start cutting up a carrot. Or celery. Something your dog likes and is allowed to have. If your dog intrudes by sticking their nose under your arm, putting their front paws on the counter, or trying to get at the carrot, stop what you’re doing and cover up the “work” with your arms and upper body. If you have to lie on it, do so. Don’t say anything to the dog. Just stare at the dog bed. 

If you tell your dog “Off!” or “No!” or even “Uh-oh” you’re still telling them what to do. The objective is to have the dog make good decisions even if you’re not there to tell them. If you always tell your dog what to do, you’ll always have to. Over the course of your dog’s lifetime, that would be exhausting.

If you put in the effort to teach them good decision-making now, over the course of years you’ll both be much happier. 

Stand firm

At first, with the carrot and counter covered, your dog won’t understand what’s going on. They may paw at you, try to burrow under your arm, or even start whining. This is the part where you must be patient. Waiting is the absolute hardest part of dog training. Don’t say anything. Don’t move. Just stare at the dog bed.

As soon as your dog has all four feet on the floor, or looks at the bed, toss a piece of carrot into the bed. As long as the dog is behaving, keep tossing pieces of carrot in the bed. Just by your actions, you’re teaching the dog that their place in that bed is highly rewarding. 

If they get the carrot piece and then come bounding back to jump some more, cover up and repeat. Single-minded dogs may take a few sessions to get the idea. But they will get it. 

Stop your dog counter surfing forever

Eventually, if you’re patient and consistent, you’ll have a terrific companion for your kitchen endeavors. You can even look forward to spending some companionable time together. If you want to give your dog a chew toy on the bed while you’re preparing food, by all means go ahead.

Throughout your dog’s life, even when they know the house rules, make a point of rewarding them for good decision-making. If you see your dog glance at the counter and then walk away, reward it. That’s a sure sign that the training has worked and your dog really does know better.