reward-based training Archives

Dog Training Game: Put On Your Collar

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There’s one training game we use each and every day, multiple times each day. It’s not particularly exciting, or fun. But it has saved us a ton of aggravation. That’s “Put On Your Collar.”

It’s a simple thing. Just getting the dogs to stand still while we put on their collars or harnesses. Our dogs tend to be backer-uppers. When we approach them, they back up. Which is fine, as long as we’re trying to get somewhere. When we’re getting ready for a walk, it’s not so great. We would grab their collars from the wall hooks and, instead of coming near for us to put it on, they’d back up.

It’s not like they don’t want to go out. Unless it’s pouring rain, they’re all eager to explore the great outdoors. But they’re reluctant to have their outside “clothes” on. Truthfully, we don’t know how common the issue is because we’ve never really talked about it with either our training club buddies or our students. We suspect it’s fairly common, but have no proof.

Born of necessity

We were tired of chasing the dogs around to get collars on. It’s not like any of them object to wearing collars. They were just excited to go out. Which, especially with Boston Terriers, means they start doing zoomies around the house. A house which has a circular path through the rooms, making it impossible to catch a zooming Boston.

A word of warning: Don’t start training “Put On Your Collar” when you have somewhere to go by a certain time. It’s a patience game. Yours may be tested to the extreme.

Lots of waiting

Most people have a phrase they use to let their dogs know it’s time to go for a walk. Around here it’s “chewannagwout?” which starts a stampede for the door. Our dogs’ collars and leashes (hooked together) are on coat hooks by the door.

To start playing “Put On Your Collar,” just pick up your dog’s collar, open it, and hold it out. The goal is for your dog to come to you, stretch their neck out over the collar, and wait for you to fasten it.

The hardest part is waiting for your dog to do it. Don’t move. If you take steps toward your dog, they’ll back up. That’s the “Keep Away” game, even if it’s only a step at a time.

Your dog has to come near enough for you to fasten their collar. Say “Collar!” and hold it out. If they don’t, within a few seconds, just hang the collar/leash back on the hook. And do not lure your dog to come closer. It has to be their idea.

Our dogs just about melted down when the collars went back on the hooks. If yours does, too, pick up the collar, open, and hold it out again.

Be willing to do this multiple times over your short training session. Since you probably won’t make it out the door the first time, make sure your dog doesn’t have to eliminate before you start.

Reward every tiny step

It shouldn’t be too long before your dog actually hovers with their neck over the collar. Reward that little step. If your dog is truly reluctant, start rewarding them for staying in the vicinity, rather than running off. Small steps turn into complete behaviors. Reward for staying, for extending their neck, for waiting until the collar is fastened.

Be sure you use the word “Collar!” or whatever word you choose. Dogs like knowing what’s going on and familiar words and actions enhance communication.

When you return home after your walk, use “Collar!” again to take it off. Build the association between the object and the word. If you use a harness instead of a collar, the progression is the same. Reward for coming close, staying there, and every step involved in putting on the harness. You’ll use this behavior multiple times every week, if not daily. It’s worth the patience it takes to teach.

Walk This Way! Teach Your Dog the Fun “Sideways!” Game

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Why does your dog need to walk sideways? The short answer is, they don’t. The good answer is that it increases body awareness, balance, and works some muscles your dog may not usually use. The best answer is that it’s fun!

Part of the package

Dogs (and people) have these great machines for doing all kinds of things. Bodies are pretty amazing. They function automatically for lots of things, like breathing and digesting. But there are some things they may not do unless they’re taught. Like building a strong core to keep us upright and functioning. And using legs for stuff other than walking or running.

Teaching your dog the Sideways! game goes along with games like “Paws & Boots” to get your dog moving in ways they may not do on their own.

Easy does it

All you need for “Sideways!” is some treats and your dog. It certainly helps if your dog knows a “Stand!” command, but it’s not crucial.

A woman standing perpendicular to a dog, which is also standing to demonstrate the positions for "Sideways!"

Stand perpendicular to your dog with one foot under their chest and your other foot in front of their front feet. Have some treats in the hand closest to your dog’s face. Show them the treat while you gently contact your dog’s ribs with your leg as you move slightly forward. This puts pressure on the dog for the sideways motion.

You can say “Sideways!” as you shuffle forward to keep your dog moving in that direction. Don’t try to cover much territory. You’re just trying to familiarize your dog with the idea that they can move to their side.

After a few steps sideways, go around to your dog’s other side and do it again. All one-sided training like “Sideways!” should be done on both sides.

Build on success

Just like us, if the dog is using “new” muscles, they may be sore the next day, so don’t try for any real distance at first. If you just get a couple of steps, that’s fine for an introduction.

Take note of your arm position when you’re playing “Sideways!” Once your dog catches on, you shouldn’t need to lure, but you can use that same hand/arm signal as a cue for your dog. Most dogs like going “Sideways!” so it’s both fitness and fun at the same time.

Holiday Dog Dilemma: When Your Dog Isn’t Party-Ready

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“We can’t host Thanksgiving for the first time in decades!” One of our trainees was almost distraught at the thought. She loves her adopted rescue dog, but knows the dog isn’t party-ready. She has a holiday dog dilemma.

The dog is fearful around strangers, and will bark and snap.

She is helping the dog overcome his fear-aggression but realizes it’s a process that probably won’t meet her Thanksgiving deadline.

Dogs not invited

We love dogs and truly think the world would be a better place if everyone agreed with us. But we do recognize that dogs are only a part of our lives. Everyone has multiple priorities that require our time and attention. Family is first. And family traditions, like Thanksgiving, take precedence over dog training.

Just because dogs are members of the family doesn’t mean they have to be included in every family event. Especially when it would cause tremendous stress for both you and your dog.

Always another option

If our trainee’s event was only a single afternoon, it would be fine to confine the dog to a room far away from the festivities. If the dog is comfortable in a crate, use it. Turn on the television or a radio, give the dog a special treat, and leave the dog alone.

With a more extended event, if people are coming for several days, you can think about boarding the dog. There’s plenty of time between now and the holidays for you to check out boarding kennels near you, both their reputation online, and their physical facility. If possible, you can even book your dog in for a “practice” night.

Teaching party manners

Our student is relieved that she can continue both her family Thanksgiving and her pursuit of better socialization for her dog. Her goal is for her dog to be part of the festivities at home next year and avoid the holiday dog dilemma.

She’ll achieve this by building her dog’s army of “Cookie People,” both in her neighborhood and at home. She can enlist friends and neighbors to come over specifically for short dog-training sessions. It only takes a few minutes and does the dog a world of good to meet new people at home in a non-threatening way.

The objective isn’t for your dog to love everybody and be their best friend. It’s equally stressful if your dog jumps on your guests and won’t leave them alone.

The ideal is for your dog to say “Hi!” politely and then resume normal behavior. The dog shouldn’t be the life of the party.

Develop some “cookie people”

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Some dogs are people-oriented and love everybody. Other dogs love a select few and are indifferent to anyone else. And then there are dogs who actively dislike anyone outside of their family and friends circle. These dogs can be challenging to live with, difficult to exercise, and impossible to bring anywhere with you. These are the dogs who most urgently need Cookie People.

The last kind of dog is also the one that might get labelled as “reactive.” While they may react rudely to strangers or unfamiliar situations, please don’t call them reactive. That word is often used interchangeably with “aggressive,” and that’s not the reputation you want your dog to have. Instead, if you must call them something, try using “excitable.” It conveys the same message, without the negative layer of meaning.

Toning down the conversation

Your dog falls into the “excitable” category if they bark at people for no reason, pull toward (or away) from strangers, and offer anti-social behaviors in new situations. In most cases, it’s probably fear-aggression. The dog is trying to act tough so no one knows how frightened they are. But we’ll never really know why. Instead, it’s up to us to teach the dog how to greet the world calmly.

One of the best techniques for chiseling away at the fear wall is to enlist an army of “Cookie People.” This may be well outside your comfort zone, but it’s necessary for your dog’s wellbeing. It’s easy enough. Just stick a bag full of your dog’s favorite treats in your pocket, leash up your dog, and go face the unsuspecting public.

Confronting strangers

The goal is to convince your dog that people are harmless. That means getting out there and talking to at least one person every day. While it can’t be the same person all the time, you should, at least for the first day, pre-arrange the encounter.

Call a friend and arrange to meet them somewhere in your neighborhood at a specific time and place. The friend should know the “script” for your encounter, which looks like this:

You and your dog are walking in the neighborhood. Up ahead, you see the fake “stranger” headed in your direction.

When you are within a few feet of each other, you ask the “stranger” if he/she will toss cookies to your dog.

The “stranger” agrees. You ask him/her not to look directly at the dog, just please toss a few treats (at least four, as many as 10) on the ground close to your dog. While tossing the treats, have a chat with the stranger, both of you ignoring the dog.

When the treats are all tossed, you and your dog say “goodbye” and continue on your walk, as does your fake “stranger.”

Rinse and repeat

If your dog is visibly upset, or won’t eat the treats, don’t push it. Don’t let the dog get close to the other person. Until their excitability is resolved, there could be trouble if your dog jumps on someone or causes them to trip.

If the dog won’t eat the treats today, try again tomorrow with better treats. This is an exercise in behavior modification and requires the treats your dog loves more than any others.

If, on the other hand, your dog was successful at disregarding the other person and enjoyed the treats thoroughly, it’s time to grow the behavior. Prepare to start confronting total strangers.

Socializing right

This socialization game is one we always play with new puppies or foster dogs in our lives. The pandemic caused some modifications in the original game, but it still works. We used to ask people if they would toss treats to our dog. When they agreed, we would just hand them a few treats. Nowadays, we pre-package a few treats in little plastic bags to give people who agree

It’s surprising how many people are willing to do you a favor, especially when you have a cute dog at your side. Since you aren’t asking for any interaction between the person and the dog, even some people who don’t like dogs will help you out. People who love dogs may be more of a problem. They may want to greet your dog, pet your dog, or deliver the treats by hand. Don’t let them. If you have to, admit that your dog is afraid of people and their behavior isn’t reliable. Make it clear that you’re in control. If the person tries to convince you they know better,, thank the person and leave. The last thing you need is someone putting pressure on your dog. If the person is too pushy, the dog may feel trapped and lash out.

Keep at it

Try to “meet” a few people every week. The more people who toss treats at your dog, the more your dog will be convinced that people are worth knowing.

We know that introverts are going to find this difficult. You can do it. Most people will be sympathetic and help. In the situation we know best, Fran’s dog Tango collected dozens of treat-tossers before he was at ease in new situations. Now, at 16 years old, he still adores some of his original Cookie People.

Training Game: On and Off

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Sometimes we invent training games for dog sports, like Obedience or Rally. Some games are just for fun. Others, like “On and Off” are for keeping our dogs healthy, fit, and moving.

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque is now 10 years old. He’s been showing some instability in his back legs. Many Frenchie people have commented about it on our videos, asking if he has IVDD (Intervertebral Disc Disease), which is fairly common in French Bulldogs. It’s not that. Instead, Torque’s hips are the problem.

Torque has always been front-heavy. It’s just the way Frenchies, and all broad-chested dogs, are built. To compensate, especially because we play dog sports, Hope has taught her dog hind-end awareness. He knows how to back up and plays “Paws & Boots” regularly.

Losing ground

A few months ago, Torque began slipping going up a flight of stairs. We figured he’d strained something, so didn’t think too much about it. Until it became months of carrying a 30 lb. dog up and down, multiple times each day. So the wheels started to turn. What could we do to help him regain his thigh muscle tone and strength? The “On and Off” game was born.

We use a foam roller for this game. Hold it steady between your feet. Because it’s foam, it’s a slightly unstable surface and requires the dog to engage their core during the game. A strong core is important to keeping your dog fit and healthy, just as it benefits people.

Like any exercise focusing on a particular muscle group, aim for a gradual increase in the number of repetitions. If your dog has weakness in their hind end, or is older, don’t overdo it, especially at first. Just like people, dogs can get sore if they start to use any muscle that’s been unused in a while.

Just like it sounds

Holding the roller between your feet, invite your dog to put their front paws on top. Reward for success. If your dog doesn’t know “Paws Up!” or a similar command, you can lure this behavior at the start. Just hold the treat slightly above the dog’s nose and move it up and toward you. The dog should follow the movement of the treat. When the dog’s two front paws are on the roller, give the dog the treat and name the behavior. We call it “On!” but you can certainly use “Paws Up!” as you might for the Paws And Boots training game.

Have you taught your dog a release word? If so, you can use that to let your dog know it’s time to step off the roller. Or you can use “Off!” It’s a natural extension of the “Off!” game you taught your dog to stop them jumping on people.

Just a bit more

Repeat the “On and Off” a few times. Aim for five or so repetitions at first. If you’re trying to build up your dog’s hind end strength, try to add one or two repetitions each time you play. A couple times a week should be sufficient.

After less than a month of playing “On and Off,” we’re pleased to report that Torque is more confident going up stairs now. He’s only doing a couple at a time, but it’s better than none. Especially if you have small dogs, a full flight of stairs may be the equivalent of a three-story building to a person. Reward for any progress and each step forward.

Positive reinforcement works on people, too

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We were fans of the tv show “The Big Bang Theory.” One episode featured a classic example of positive reinforcement training.

If you watched the show, you know that the primary characters, Leonard and Sheldon, were scientists. Sheldon, in generous terms, wasn’t adept at social interaction. In this episode, Leonard, his girlfriend Penny, and Sheldon are watching TV. When Penny talks over the program, Sheldon gets annoyed. He gives her a glare and she promises to be quiet. He offers her a chocolate. Penny’s phone rings and, after a glance at Sheldon, says she’ll go into the hall to talk. Sheldon offers her a chocolate.

Sheldon’s applying positive reinforcement to get what he wants. Leonard notices and says:

“Sheldon, you can’t train my girlfriend like a lab rat!”

Sheldon replies “Actually it turns out I can.”

Not a new concept

While most sources attribute positive reinforcement to B.F. Skinner’s development of operant conditioning in the 1930s, the concept is much, much older. Ever heard the proverb “You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar”? Ben Franklin’s Poor Richard’s Almanac cited it in 1844.

Positive reinforcement is one of the quadrants of operant conditioning. Explaining the other three would dive deep into weeds most people would rather not explore. If you, too, are nerdily interested, there’s lots to find. Have fun!

The point is that positive reinforcement works on people as well as dogs. Everybody is more interested and eager if they know their efforts will be appreciated. Sometimes that’s a simple “thank you!” or “well done!” And sometimes it’s a piece of chocolate.

Getting where you want to be

Research has proven that positive reinforcement works better for learning and retention than punishment-based training. “Reward-based dog training offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare,” according to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, which says there is no evidence that aversive practices are necessary for dog training or behavior modification.

It’s also true that positive reinforcement training requires time and patience. Having a background in correction-based training, we know that a few strong “collar pops” will probably stop a dog from pulling. It will also make the dog fear the collar and cause pain. Punishment-based trainers have euphemisms to describe what they do. “Collar pop” or “correction” sounds better than yanking on a dog’s collar to hurt them.

Getting a dog to understand what you want is like playing charades with an alien. You don’t have a common language, you can only communicate through motions and rewards. It takes time to reach understanding. Once your dog realizes that every little training game will be fun and rewarding, they’ll love those sessions.

Take a breath

It may take a while for the light bulb to turn on in your dog’s brain. You may get to a point where, after a week or two, you’re wondering if you’re doing something wrong or if you have the dumbest dog on the planet. That’s just about the time when you can expect your dog to come up with flashes of brilliance. Just when you’re starting to despair.

Sticking with short, fun training games isn’t a huge commitment. Devoting ten or 15 minutes a day to your dog should be something you look forward to. The best way to start the day is playing a couple games with your best friend. Just ask your dog.

Luring And Rewarding- Treats in their proper place

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What’s the difference between luring and rewarding your dog?

Picture yourself planning a driving trip to someplace you’ve never been. One way of getting there is just entering it into your map app on your phone and following directions. Presto! You have arrived. You may have absolutely no idea how you got there. And you might not have a clue how to get home. But it worked.

In the olden days, you’d take out a road map, plot your trip, consider the alternatives, use your familiarity with traffic patterns, and choose the best option. You’d know where you drove, how you got to your destination, and how to get home again.

Easier isn’t better

The GPS option is certainly easier. So is luring your dog. That doesn’t mean it’s better. If you always stick a treat in front of your dog’s nose to get them to do something, they aren’t learning. They’re following directions.

The point of training (aside from having fun with your dog) is teaching them how to do stuff and make good decisions. You don’t want to have to tell your dog what to do all day every day. It can get exhausting.

Instead, teach them how to think and reward good decisions.

More tools in the kit

There is a place for luring. It’s in the initial, teaching stage of a new behavior. “Spin!” is a good example. While some dogs may spin around naturally, it’s not a given. Luring the dog into a spin is the easiest way to show them what you want them to do. It has the added benefit of showing the dog the arm motion you’ll use to signal a spin.

While it may not be a natural behavior, it’s one that most dogs learn quickly and love doing. It transitions easily from luring to rewarding.

Luring and rewarding

Luring is having a treat in your hand and leading your dog to behave a certain way. Rewarding is asking the dog for something and giving a treat immediately after they do it. The timing has to be so close that the dog knows their action prompted a great reward. Booker has gotten rewarded for spinning, so he’ll do it repeatedly.

The premise here is “What gets rewarded gets repeated.” If your dog got a treat for spinning, chances are strong they’ll spin again. As long as the reward comes right after, the dog will retain the link between the action and its yummy result.

Making dogs think

Dogs aren’t stupid. When they know that something great is going to happen if they behave a certain way, they do it. They’re motivated to act.

Better yet, dogs will puzzle out what they have to do to earn that treat. When you have a dog trained with positive reinforcement, they’ll try all kinds of things to see what gets them the goodies. As your dog becomes increasingly confident, they’ll show you more and different actions to win the reward.

Patience pays

The hardest thing about dog training is being patient and letting your dog think. Introducing new things with a lure starts your dog on the path. Fading the lure and replacing it with a reward solidifies your dog’s grasp on the behavior. You’ll know you’re there when you can wave your hand in a circle and your dog spins like a top. Make sure that good dog’s reward is close at hand.

Dog Training Game – Trade Ya

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The “Trade Ya!” dog training game works in lots of different scenarios:

Fifi doesn’t like to play with toys. “Trade Ya!” to teach her.
Phydeaux’s biting at your pants while you walk down the hall? “Trade Ya!” for a tug toy.
Spot’s grabbing crumpled paper from the wastebasket? “Trade Ya!” for a tossed ball.
Rover’s munching on anything they shouldn’t? “Trade Ya!” for a yummier treat.

Dogs are great shoppers. They know what they like and what’s not very interesting. The most vivid example we’ve seen is the annual video from the Dogs Trust Ireland. For the holidays, the shelter has a “Santa Paws” day where each dog gets to choose from a roomful of toys. The vast majority of the dogs pick one and stick with it. Not much indecision there. Dogs know what they like.

Good, better, best

And just like people, dogs have a rating system for their preferences. There’s stuff that’s okay. Other stuff that’s good. The next tier is better. And, at the apex is the stuff they’ll run through fire to get.

All of these levels have a place in your dog’s life. To play “Trade Ya!,” you need to know your dog’s rankings for toys. As every dog owner knows, the toys you spent the most money on and thought your dog would adore are probably at the bottom of the list. Now you’ll finally get your money’s worth of fun.

To teach your dog “Trade Ya!,” pick three toys, one each representing good, better, and best. Also have your dog’s absolute favorite treat. Play this game somewhere that’s dog-toy-free. Nothing else around to attract your dog’s focus.

Play with me!

Start with the least-favorite of the three toys. Put the other two someplace you can reach them, but the dog can’t. Slap that toy on the floor and slowly wave it back and forth to get your dog to play tug with you.

Note: be sure you tug side-to-side. Never tug up-and-down to avoid injury to your dog’s neck.

If your dog doesn’t play tug, or isn’t showing any interest, lightly contact your dog’s paws with the toy as you move it across the floor in front of them. Be really annoying with it. Don’t take “no” for an answer. Eventually, your dog will succumb and get hold of the toy.

As soon as the dog grabs the first toy, whip out the second one, slap it on the floor, wiggle it back and forth and say “Trade Ya!” Since this second toy is more interesting to the dog than the first, the dog should readily drop it and grab the new toy you’re offering. (Remember your dog’s reward hierarchy!)

Rinse & repeat

When the dog’s tugging the middle-of-the-road toy, pull out the best toy, slap it on the ground, say “Trade Ya!” Your dog should grab onto the favorite toy and drop the other. Play tug for a moment. Let your dog “win” the game sometimes.

Tug shouldn’t be a duration game. After a few tugs, say something like “That’s all!” and end it. If your dog won’t give up the “best” toy, reach for the high-value treat you brought and once again, say “Trade Ya!”

Lesson of the game

It may take a few sessions for your dog to understand that they’re trading up with “Trade Ya!” In time, they will readily drop what they have to choose the trade option.

Always be sure that the next-level toy or treat is handy before you say “Trade Ya!” If you don’t have something “better,” you’d be lying to your dog. That would poison the game and you might have to start over from the beginning.

Whenever you say “Trade Ya!” your dog will come to expect that they’re getting something even better than whatever it is they have. That applies to anything your dog may have that you’d rather they didn’t. Playing tug is more fun for the dog than biting your pants leg. The best treat is better than chewing on grass. Take advantage of your dog’s pro shopping ability.

Muzzles are good management

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What do you think when you see a person walking around with a muzzled dog? Are you wary? Do you grab your dog and cross the street? Thinking needs to change. In fact, muzzles are good management.

Sadly, the stigma attached to using a muzzle for your dog prevents many people from using one of the least intrusive, most useful dog management tools ever. Using a muzzle prevents your dog from starting any trouble and insures they won’t contribute to any they find.

Everyday wear

Take the case of a dog from our “Impulse Control” class. He’s a young dog, a medium-sized terrier. Let’s call him Sam. Sam is the first dog of a very nice young couple, and he does great in their apartment. He does okay on walks. He’s nipped two people in the elevator. That’s a problem. And a pretty big one.

Sam isn’t a mean dog. He’s a young, scared dog who doesn’t get the distance he needs to feel safe when he’s in an elevator. The absolute cardinal rule for fear-aggressive dogs is “distance is your friend.” The fear reaches a boiling point when the dog is trapped and unable to move away.

Sam’s people have to take the elevator. Sometimes they’re not going to be able to wait for an empty car, or be able to ask other people not to get in. Everybody’s got places to go and schedules to keep. What they can do, to make sure that everyone, including Sam, is safe.

Muzzle your dog

We started muzzle-training the dogs in impulse control class. Every dog should be accustomed to a muzzle – you never know what circumstances may require it. If your dog is injured, they will also be frightened. And they might lash out at people who are trying to help. Emergency vets and technicians routinely muzzle dogs – you can’t know how much pain a dog is in, or how it will react. Most dog owners, fortunately, don’t know how their dogs would react to an injury. Muzzles are good management – even the calmest, most well-behaved dog might react poorly to a perceived threat – especially if the dog is in pain. Plus, a muzzle means that your dog won’t pick up strange objects in the backyard.

The first step in muzzle-training is like any other game. Get the dog familiar with the object and reward interaction with the thing. Looking at it, sniffing it, pawing at it, taking it in their mouth – all are steps in familiarization. Reward each interaction. Ideally, put your hand through the muzzle to reward your dog, so the muzzle becomes part of the interaction.

Over the course of a few 2-Minute sessions, accustom the dog to the muzzle. Depending on the kind of muzzle, you can put your hand through while giving your dog treats. Start asking your dog to stick his nose/muzzle in the muzzle. If you don’t have one, or if the dog needs time to get used to the muzzle, use a plastic glass or cone and ask your dog to stick their nose in. Reward in or by the thing to build value in the interaction.

If your dog is skittish, don’t even try putting the muzzle on until your dog has made friends with it. We want dogs to believe that muzzles are no big deal. Because they’re not. Or at least they shouldn’t be. Muzzle-training your dog means you care about everybody’s safety in any situation. It’s “what if” training that we hope your dog will never need.

Not always everywhere

In Impulse Control class, we had no muzzles, so we used plastic cones to simulate something for the dogs to stick their faces into. Once they figured out that treats were involved, they were shoving their noses in as far as they could go.

Sam’s parents have the task of finding a muzzle that works for them and their dog. (For a description of various types of muzzles, see “Every dog needs a muzzle.”) They asked if they had to use it all the time. The answer is yes. And no. Since Sam’s issues are in enclosed spaces, he needs to wear it in the apartment building and elevator. Once they get outside, it can come off. They can achieve the distance from other people/dogs/objects that Sam finds scary.

The elevator trip back home also requires the muzzle back on. And, if friendly neighbors are sharing the ride, by all means ask them to give Sam treats.

Defy dog logic

We’ve had people who say “I’m not giving a dog treats for growling at me!” That’s a complete misinterpretation of what’s going on. You’re not rewarding the growling, or reactive behavior. Instead, you’re proving to the dog that you’re not frightening and you’re a nice person. All people are nice.

That’s the message dogs should get from all strangers. Especially dogs who are somewhat fearful. The objective is to reassure them that you’ll keep them safe. They have nothing to fear. Not even fear itself. And muzzles are good management.

Make it easy on your dog. Expect perfection.

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It’s not being mean to expect perfection from your dog. It makes it easy for your dog to understand exacly what you want.

We have a friend with both French Bulldogs and Border Collies. Our friend makes us absolutely crazy because she holds the different breeds to different criteria in training. She expects the Border Collies to be perfect. The Frenchies can get away with “meh” performances. So that’s what she gets from them.

Every dog is capable of great things in whatever training you choose. Whether it’s reaching elite dog sport performance or becoming the perfect couch cuddler, it’s up to you. But you’ll do your dog a huge favor if you expect perfection.

“Good enough” isn’t

Have you ever asked your dog to “Sit!” and thought “eh, good enough” when the dog lies down? If so, you just confused your dog. The dog was showing you they don’t understand the word. Instead of clarifying it, you fed the confusion.

Unlike people, dogs don’t have a sliding scale or understand there’s an acceptable range. Dogs understand “yes” and “no.” “Maybe” is an alien concept. That’s why dogs often behave better for the “strictest” person in the family, rather than the one who’s “nice” to them. They understand what the “strict” person expects of them. Niceness is confusing.

That doesn’t mean you yell at your dog or order them around all the time. It means that you teach them what you want from them. If it truly doesn’t matter to you if your dog sits or lies down, reward whatever you get. If you actually want them to “Sit!” teach them what it means. Accept and reward only an actual sit position. If the dog lies down, wait and look at their butt. Don’t repeat the command. Just wait. As soon as they rise into a “Sit!” reward.

Keep it simple

A key to understanding dogs is recognizing that they love patterns and routines. That’s why people who say “Sit” three times (many do) when they’re teaching their dogs will always have to say “Sit” three times to get their dogs to do it.

Clarity and precision are largely disregarded and underrated. With people, you can easily clear misunderstandings with more words. You don’t have that option with dogs. While they can understand hundreds of words, they’ll only know one meaning for each one. And you’re the one who decides what each word means for your dog.

If you think you’ve confused your dog about something, it’s often easier to start over with a new word than fix the mistake. You may never know why a particular word has become “poison” to your dog. Fran had that happen with Tango. He stopped understanding his release word, which was “Go!” He didn’t.

He couldn’t tell us why. Fran could only deal with what was true. So she started over again with a new release word, “Action!” It’s still working just fine.