Tag: positive reinforcement dog training

Use Mom voice with your dog

Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. However, that doesn’t make them great conversationalists. When talking to your dog, keep it short and simple. And use your “mom” voice.

We have some dog training students who seem to have non-stop discussions with their dogs. And, predictably, their dogs pay little or no attention when they talk. What the dog hears is like the nonsense syllables of adults in the Charlie Brown cartoon shows: “Blah, blah, blahbity blah.”

Mean what you say

You and your dog make a great team!
Your dog’s primary job is to be a good companion!

Sometimes, you just talk to your dog. You’re just relaxing and hanging out, so you share the day’s events, or talk about plans. Or even just sing along with whatever song is playing. Dogs are great companions – that’s their number one job. And if you’re doing it right, you may even get that adorable head tilt.

Then there are times when you need your dog to pay attention and you want him/her to do as you say. Whether that’s “Stay!” when you’re carrying groceries into the house, or “Sit!” instead of jumping on Grandma when she’s offering a treat. 

Those are the times you need your dog to understand and obey. We hesitate to use words like “command” or even “obey.” They convey a harshness that’s not necessary. 

Mom voice

It’s more a tone of voice that lets the listener know you’re serious. Remember when your Mom asked you to take out the trash? You probably either ignored the first request, or responded “In a minute.”

For the second ask, her tone was less asking and more telling. And the third time, she used “mom voice” and you got up and took out the trash.

It didn’t mean she was angry – just that she really meant it that time. When  you need your dog to obey, use that Mom voice. You don’t have to sound harsh, or belligerent. But you do have to sound like you mean it and that you expect your dog to do what you’ve said.

Silence is golden

If the first part of the equation is short, definitive speech, the second part is equally important. Once you’ve said “Dog, Sit!” shut up. Wait for your dog to process what you’ve said and do it. 

If you keep talking, or repeat the command multiple times, your dog will either disregard the meaningless chatter, or wait for you to sound like you mean it. 

We see it all the time. When the dog doesn’t do something instantly, the person repeats it. And teaches their dog that saying “Sit!” happens some number of times. It becomes a part of the behavior.

Part of the routine

Before you know it, you have a dog that waits until he/she hears it three times before doing it, whatever it is. Dogs are good at learning patterns. If it’s your pattern to chatter and repeat, it could be a factor in why your dog is slow or seems confused. 

One of the most overused words dogs hear is their own name. Especially when people bark their dog’s name to get their attention. Either add a command to tell your dog what you want (and reward them for doing it), Or acknowledge and reward when your dog looks at you when you say his/her name. As we’ve said before, your dog’s name doesn’t mean much by itself.

Don’t neglect to give your dog a reason to pay attention. Deliver the information your dog needs Clearly and concisely. And always reward (treats, toys, praise, pets) when they do what you said.

Clear, concise communication is the goal.

.

Every dog needs a muzzle

Why on earth are we talking about dog muzzle training?

You’d never use a muzzle on your dog, right? Your dog is a sweetheart and would never threaten anyone! 

Not so fast. How about if your dog is in an accident and injured? Will you guarantee they won’t snap in panic, pain, or fear? Under duress, the mildest-mannered dog may react according to instinct, not training. Every dog needs a muzzle.

One of the first lessons in canine First Aid is how to fashion a muzzle from any strip of cloth or rope. Emergency personnel want to help your dog, but don’t want to risk their own safety to do it. And we don’t blame them. 

Imperatives for safety

There are two things every dog should be trained for “just in case:”

  1. Crates. Every dog should be familiar and comfortable with a cage or crate. For travel, grooming, hospitalization – it’s the safest place for your dog. In the event of some kind of disaster requiring an evacuation, some shelters will only accept dogs if they’re crated. 
  2. Muzzles. While there are many people who would want to help if your dog were injured, nobody wants to risk a bite. If your dog is at all reactive, a muzzle allows you to go anywhere knowing that nothing will happen. (You can read Fran’s introduction to muzzles with Tango and his reactive training in her book Tango: Transforming My Hellhound.) And many veterinarians now routinely muzzle unfamiliar dogs. It keeps everyone safe. Additionally, a muzzle will prevent your dog from putting everything in his mouth on walks.

Better to have it

There’s an old saying “better to have and not need, than need and not have.” Having a muzzle and never needing it is ideal. Needing one and stressing out your dog isn’t good at all. Every dog needs a muzzle – just in case…

There are lots of different types of muzzles out there. There are muzzles with metal “baskets,” leather muzzles, rubber muzzles, muzzles made of net like Simon’s (below). There’s even a muzzle that looks like a duck’s bill, which makes it less threatening-looking. Which kind you get depends on your preference, your dog’s anatomy, and what’s available. You’ll find all of them online – read the measuring and fitting instructions carefully. 

Simon wearing his muzzle. He can breathe, drink, pant and get treats wearing it.
Simon in his muzzle.

If you have a short-faced dog, your options are more limited, but they do exist. Search specifically for a muzzle for brachycephalic dogs, or short-faced dogs. You can see Simon wearing his muzzle to the left.

Your dog’s muzzle should allow you to deliver treats to your dog. It will also allow the dog to drink, pant, and see clearly. Its purpose is to keep everyone safe, not cause further anxiety in a traumatic situation. Simon can obviously see, breathe, get treats, drink and pant while he wears his muzzle. Even though he has no nose to speak of, Simon has a muzzle that works for him.

Muzzle training steps

The first step for introducing anything new to your dog is exactly that – an introduction. Show the muzzle to your dog, click and reward. If your dog sniffs it, click and reward. If your dog stays calm when you pick it up, click and reward. 

Drape the muzzle over the hand that’s delivering treats to your dog. If your dog has to touch the muzzle to get the treat, that’s ideal. But don’t force it. If your dog is wary of the it at first, respect that for now. We want your dog to associate that muzzle with getting lots of high-value treats. Gradually move the muzzle closer to your dog so he has to push into it to get the treat. 

Step by step, gradually introduce your dog to the look and feel of the muzzle. If your dog resists, back up to the last step where he/she was okay, and start again. There’s no rush. Your dog will let you know when he/she is okay with the next step. Pay attention to your dog’s signals.

Keep sessions short

Generally speaking, dogs think muzzles are weird. They’re right. Don’t work on muzzle training more than 2-Minutes, like any other training session. But try to devote one 2-Minute session every day to the muzzle, until your dog is completely okay with it. Getting it over his/her head and clasping the buckle may take some time. Take the time that’s needed so your dog doesn’t mind the muzzle at all. Putting on a muzzle should become one of the strange things Mom (or Dad) wants, so your dog does it willingly. They may never like it, but they do it because we ask them to.

And while your dog is wearing his muzzle, don’t be stingy with the treats! If he’s being good, reward him!

If your dog is familiar with wearing a muzzle, you’ll have one less thing to worry about should the unthinkable happen. It’s another way to protect your pet.

Training helps dogs choose wisely

Positive reinforcement training doesn’t mean your dog gets to do whatever they want whenever they want. It means that you, as the dog’s teacher, must help your dogs choose wisely. Good decisions are rewarded. Poor ones are ignored.

There are times that we ask too much of the dogs. That’s on us, not the dog. It happened today in Simon’s 2-Minute session this morning. Simon is Fran’s four-year-old Boston Terrier. 

Training for Rally Obedience

One of the exercises often used in Rally courses is the Figure 8 with distractions. (This is a different kind of distraction than those Simon faced at an Agility trial, but the training to deal with any distraction is similar, as you’ll see.) Those distractions are bowls on either side containing either dog treats or dog toys. The objective is to heel with your dog in a figure-8 pattern around two pylons, despite the distractions.

Simon does great (after some training) when the bowls contain treats. While he’s food-motivated, treats are not his number-one reward. Toys are.

This morning Fran put a single bowl with some treats out and practiced heeling with Simon around the bowl. He was fine. Attentive to what he was doing and, after a glance or two, ignoring the distraction. His response was exactly right. He got lots of praise and treats. 

Changing the question

Simon answered that question perfectly. So it was time to change the question and see if he answered right again. Fran replaced the treats in the bowl with a low-value dog toy. It blew his little doggy brain.

Simon did fine getting into perfect heel position. He stayed sitting, until Fran said “Heel!” He dashed for the toy in the bowl and took off. Fran held onto the toy, not letting him tug or chew, and told him to “drop it.” He did, which earned him a treat reward. 

Fran set up again, a little further from the bowl, with a higher-value treat, but essentially the same question. We got the same, wrong answer. It was time to change the question – this one was too difficult for Simon today.

That’s also an important distinction. It was too much today. Another day, it might not be a big deal. But today we had to find a way to help Simon choose wisely.

Making positive changes

We switched the reward to a toy Simon likes even more than the one in the bowl. Fran played a short game of tug with him to show him what a wonderful treat was in store for him. And set up for heeling again. He almost chose wisely, but the “bird in the hand” option was still too tempting. 

Helping dogs choose wisely means rewarding heavily when they do!
Vigorous game of “tug” after ignoring the distraction.

Next change: covering the toy and bowl with an open basket. Simon could still see the toy in the bowl, but there was a barrier to instant access. With this change, he was finally able to heel around the distraction successfully. And was immediately rewarded with a vigorous game of tug with the toy in Fran’s pocket.

Success not required

While not every session has to “end with a win,” we called a halt at that point. We’d already asked Simon to think hard, answer difficult questions, and concentrate. 

Next time we visit this exercise – the Figure 8 with distractions – we’ll start where we left off today. With the toy visible but not accessible. We’ll start with the easier question and build up to the more difficult ones.

Dogs aren’t psychic and they don’t speak English. They do communicate clearly, if we’re paying attention. Yes, we do training to challenge our dogs. But we don’t want to overwhelm them by asking too much. If your dog is making bad decisions – it’s time to rethink the questions you’re asking.

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something  spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm. 

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more. 

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn.
Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.

Good Dogs Should Always Be Rewarded

We met a woman this week whose two-year-old daughter thinks their dog’s name is “Good Dog!” We laughed about it, but it rings true. This woman is so accustomed to saying “Good Dog!” it could be the dog’s name. It’s not. The dog’s name is actually Miko.

Is there such a thing as too much praise for your dog? Too many treats? Is it possible to play too many games and have too much fun with your dog?

Of course not!

Too much of a good thing

In human terms, can you ever hear too much sincere praise from your boss? Knowing you’re doing well isn’t a reason to stop trying. It’s encouragement to keep going. And maybe even try even more, since you know your efforts are being appreciated.

Simon - a good dog is rewarded.
Simon’s a good dog who’s being rewarded!

It’s very common for people to assume there’s a time limit for rewarding their dog for good behavior. Once their dog is “trained” (as if you’re ever done!), they can stop rewarding. There is no time limit. Throughout your dog’s life, let them know you like what they’re doing. They’re good dogs. And you love them. Just like no human likes being taken for granted, dogs should be appreciated just for being good dogs!

Worried about spoiling 

“But I don’t want to ‘spoil’ my dog! He’ll expect treats all the time!” 

We hear that a lot, especially from new dog owners. 

Realistically, what’s the harm in spoiling your dog? Your dog is never going to have to fend for himself in society. He doesn’t have to be a responsible citizen, get a job, pay rent, vote, drive, or even shop for groceries. Your dog’s one and only “job” is to be a good dog. A much-loved member of the family. Who doesn’t poop on the floor. 

And is it really “spoiling” if you’re acknowledging your dog’s respect for the rules you’ve set? If your dog is doing the “job” you’ve assigned, shouldn’t he be paid for a job well done? 

Let’s make it about you, instead. You have a job you love. You enjoy the work, your office, your colleagues, even the corporate culture of your workplace. Are you still going to work if you don’t get paid? (There are never too many treats in dog training either!)

Pay your good dogs

Maybe we just need a change in terms. Instead of “rewarding” good behavior, maybe we should just consider it payment for a job well done. After all, a reward sounds like a one-time deal – a single recognition of some achievement. Instead, maybe we should look at treats/playtime/praise as just part of your dog’s regular salary for being a very good dog.

Eyes on the Prize

Setting priorities in dog training

When your dog does something unexpected in a training session, how do you react? Do you remember your priorities in dog training? Or do you allow your focus to wander?

Setting priorities in dog training: Torque's priority was to play with the training tool.
Torque’s priority during the training session was to chew the training tool…

Torque gave Hope a lesson in keeping priorities straight. In the middle of their 2-Minute Trainer video of the week, he decided to take off with the training game’s object, carry it off to a corner, and shred it to bits.

So she screamed “NO!” at him, wrestled it out of his mouth, smacked him with it, and crated him immediately. 

Of course not. You can see in the video that she takes a pause to figure out what Torque’s up to. Removes the toy, and attempts to regain his attention and focus. It’s semi-successful, but calls for a change in the plan.

There are two paths forward:

  • Change directions and teach Torque to use pool noodle pieces, not eat them.
  • Use something else for the “Push!” game and get on with life.

Decide what’s important

Is it worth it for Torque to learn not to eat pool noodles? When we think about how often he’ll encounter them, not really. If we used them for anything but dog training games, it might be important. But we have no pool, and he’s never going anywhere without us. The chances of him encountering and destroying other people’s pool noodles in the wild is minimal. So we’re going to make a different choice for his training games.

That’s how you keep your eyes on the prize. Torque showed us the object we were using for the game isn’t a viable option. So we’ll use something else. That’s keeping your dog training priorities in order. We talked about training certain behaviors regardless of the public’s perception of any breed’s intelligence some time ago.

Be ready to shift gears

“Shifting gears” used to be something every driver had to know how to do. Nowadays, most people probably don’t even know the origin of the phrase. But it’s still a good one. Drivers of manual transmission cars had to pay attention to multiple inputs (speed, traffic, signals, etc.) and be ready to literally shift gears to adjust. Constantly. 

Dog training requires that you’re paying attention to what your dog is telling you and be ready to shift gears and adjust. Torque’s theft of the pool noodle was him saying “I don’t know what you want, so I’m leaving.” His repetition of that means “Shredding this thingie is highly rewarding to me, so I’m going to keep doing it.”

Given a choice, dogs will always opt for the most rewarding action. At that moment, shredding the noodle was more rewarding than playing with Hope. Gears have to shift. The game has to get more fun, and the object less so. 

Always communicating

Your dog is always providing feedback on your training. If you pay attention to what their behavior and body language tells you, your partnership will thrive. 

And be ready to shift on the fly (back to car references!). If, instead of a pool noodle, Torque had suddenly decided that books are wonderful to destroy, we would have to address that. If it matters to you, you can make it matter to your dog. You set your own priorities in dog training.

Bribing dogs to behave

Are we bribing our dogs or rewarding them?
Do we bribe our dogs or pay them for a job well done?

Is reward-based dog training the same as bribery? Are we bribing dogs to behave? Is there something wrong with constantly rewarding dogs?

Let’s break it down into terms even our most resistant students understand instantly. You have a job. You love all aspects of your job – the work you do, the place you do it, the people you work with. It’s an ideal situation and you couldn’t be happier. 

Would you still do it if you didn’t get paid?

Your dog’s job is to be a great companion, a member of the family who conforms to the rules of the household. When your dog does a good job – shouldn’t they get paid, too?

Because we say so!

At a certain toddler age, every child goes through a “Why?” stage – questioning everything. It’s a normal part of development, but that doesn’t mean it’s not sometimes frustrating. At some point, everyone has lost patience and said “Because I say so!”

At this point the child understands only that you’re angry with them. They don’t understand the source of the anger, or what happened to change the mood. Neither does your dog. 

Even adult dogs are persistent toddlers. The smartest dogs in the world will never go to college, never support themselves, never become responsible taxpayers. We choose to be their guardians throughout their lives.

Asking your dog to consistently do what you want, without any hope of reward, is unrealistic. “Because I say so” only works some of the time. “Because you love me” only works some of the time. Without some kind of reward, your dog has no reason to do as you ask. Is it bribing your dog to behave? Maybe. Do we care?

Rewards come in different forms

It doesn’t mean you have to be a constant “Pez dispenser” as one of our students phrased it. It does mean that your dog’s good behavior should be acknowledged – with words, play, pets, scratches, treats, or anything your dog loves. Our article “Lots of ways to reward your dog” discusses this in more depth.

Give your dog a reason to choose wisely. The more you reward your dog for making good choices, the better they’ll become at choosing. What gets rewarded gets repeated. 

So is it bribery? Some may see it that way. The promise of a reward is motivating for both people and dogs. So – pay your dog.

Luring vs. rewarding

Actually, luring, which is not the best dog training, is more akin to bribery. We like to think of positive reinforcement training, reward-based training, as the best bargain you can make with your dog. They get what they want when we get what we want. Sounds like a good deal for everyone.

If you consider it bribing dogs, we’re okay with that. It gets results, that that’s what matters.

Train your dog to walk on a treadmill

When it’s too hot to trot … Dogs need exercise. And one of the best exercises for both dogs and people is walking. (We talked about other kinds of exercise your dog might need in “Wellbeing of dogs.”) But there are times it’s just not practical to go for a long fitness walk. It may be too hot, too cold, too wet, or too icy. You may need to use every walk for training if you have a reactive dog. If, for whatever reason, outdoor walks are impractical, you can train your dog to walk on your treadmill.

There are specifically-designed “dog joggers,” but without a kennel full of dogs that need exercise, the treadmill designed for people works just fine. Especially if you can manually set the speed, incline, and time. That’s what we do with our dogs and they jump on to get started.

Training for treadmill walking

If, like many, your treadmill has become a fancy clothes hanger rather than a routine part of your schedule, the first training step is getting your dog used to the noise the treadmill makes. If you use the treadmill regularly, your dog is already familiar with the sound and shouldn’t fuss about it. 

Use high-value treats for all treadmill training. Since this training is for health and fitness, we want the dogs to love it.  Set a short program on the treadmill and have your treats handy. Start the treadmill and get your dog into the room on leash and harness. If your dog doesn’t have a harness, get one. It’s a safety issue. The last thing you want is to jerk your dog’s neck if he/she missteps on the treadmill. 

For this first step in training the dog isn’t getting on the treadmill, but we want to establish the routine – harness, leash, yummy treats, treadmill. Dogs love routine. Get as close to the treadmill as your dog is comfortable and just reward him/her for being calm. If your dog is wary at first, that’s fine. You’ll move gradually closer as your dog indicates comfort where they are.

If your dog is fine with the sound, let him/her check out the treadmill, looking and sniffing. Keep hold of the leash and try not to allow your dog to step up on the treadmill when it’s moving. It could frighten him/her – things dogs step on don’t usually move by themselves.

Next step

For the next 2-Minute session of treadmill training, leave the treadmill off. This is the session your dog gets to step on the tread, sniff around, and learn the right position for walking on the treadmill. If your treadmill is like ours, there’s a grab bar on the tread side, towards you. Drape the leash over the bar so your dog gets used to seeing it over his/her head. 

Simon (Boston Terrier) is walking on the treadmill.
Simon is getting his roadwork in.

Think about where you plan to stand and how you’ll deliver rewards when your dog is exercising on the treadmill. Different dogs may require different approaches. Since our dogs are comfortable on our left side through obedience training, we stand to the side of the treadmill, facing the same way as the dog. Remember – always reward with the hand closest to the dog. We hold the leash in our right hands, and deliver treats with the left.

How you do it is up to you and your dog. You can be on the left, right, or even standing over your dog with one foot on either side on the deck. Eventually you may even be able to share the treadmill with your dog. We don’t recommend it, for safety’s sake, but we know some people jog with their dogs. You can also be in front of the treadmill, encouraging your dog to come towards you. Unless you have another person to hold the leash, this isn’t ideal. 

Try it, you’ll like it!

After a couple sessions hanging out by the treadmill, both on and off, your dog may be ready to give it a try. Don’t hurry – there’s no rush. If your dog avoids the equipment, he/she isn’t ready to get on it. Don’t ever try to plunk your dog onto the treadmill and start it up. This has to be a voluntary behavior if it has any chance of success.

Set your dog up on the treadmill, wearing his/her harness, leashed and under control. Start the treadmill slowly, without incline, and see how your dog does. You can always increase the speed later. Encourage him/her to walk as it starts up, even “fake-walking” yourself to get the idea across. Reward often and encourage frequently. 

If your dog freaks out – go back to sound desensitizing and sniffing/looking sessions. If he/she isn’t frightened, but doesn’t quite know what to do, keep a firm hold of the leash and do not let him/her fall off the back. Encourage with a brisk “Let’s go!” or whatever you say when you go for a walk outside.

Treadmill training

When your dog is comfortable on the treadmill, adjust the program for the time and speed that’s best for you and your dog. Finding your dog’s natural gait speed may take a few tries. Gradually increase speed until your dog is moving comfortably and picking up his/her feet. If you hear nails scraping on the tread, the speed isn’t right for your dog. You can adjust slower as well as faster. 

Three or four fitness walks a week are all that’s really necessary to keep your dog in top physical condition. It’s great to have the option of an inside workout when the weather outside is frightful.

Dog training step by step

We’ve all heard the saying that “the journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” That’s true for dog training, too. This is a journey that we’re on, and since it lasts the dog’s entire life, we all hope it’s a very long one. Dog training step by step means your dog thoroughly understands, trusts you completely, and loves you completely.

Sometimes it may seem like you’re not getting anywhere fast. And you may not be. Steady progress is difficult to measure. Especially when you have a 2-Minute game session that doesn’t go particularly well. That’s one of the beauty parts of the system – even the worst game session is only two minutes long. While we often want the good ones to last longer, we’re grateful the bad ones end quickly.

Baby steps get you there

If you have a dog who loves playing fetch, it’s a great game. If your dog doesn’t understand any part of it, it’s a complex behavior that your dog can learn to love playing. There are lots of moving parts to fetch:

  • Wait while you throw the toy.
  • Run after the toy.
  • Find the toy.
  • Pick up the toy.
  • Hold the toy.
  • Run back with the toy.
  • Drop the toy. 

If you have a non-fetching dog, not a single one of those steps comes naturally to your dog. Every one of them can be taught as a separate game. But if you’ve ever thrown a toy for a dog who sat there and looked at you, you know it’s impossible to teach the entire game at one time. If your dog is a “if you wanted it, why did you throw it away?” kind of dog, you know what we mean.

Keep it small and doable

Torque looks confused - whenever it's not dog training step by step.
Is Torque confused because the step was too big?

When every step is its own game, with a reward for small steps, no one gets discouraged. If you ask too much of your dog, they may disengage. Stress behaviors might include walking away, turning their head, licking their lips, yawning, or scratching. If you see any of those, it’s time to step back and assess the situation. Did you ask too much? Is the step you’re taking too big? Can you break it down smaller? We recently broke down the steps for Tango’s favorite game – “Put your toys away.”

Recently Hope was starting to teach the Utility Obedience exercise “Directed Retrieve.” In this exercise, three gloves are evenly spaced apart at one end of the ring. The dog is supposed to fetch the glove his owner points at. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque knows how to go get stuff and bring it back to Hope. He loves the dumbbell retrieve that’s another Obedience exercise.

Torque was completely flummoxed by the Directed Retrieve. Even though he knows “Get It!,” he was unfamiliar with the gloves, the multiple objects, and Hope’s directional signal. So Hope’s breaking it down. After a few 2-Minute games, Torque will now pick up the glove and carry it. He’s working on dropping it on command. And he’s still figuring out how to tell which one to get. 

Too much to swallow

It’s discouraging to fail. Torque didn’t recognize that “fetch the glove” was pretty much the same as “fetch the dumbbell.” We’ve mentioned before that dogs don’t generalize, and here was another proof. Now each part of the exercise is a separate game. 

If your dog truly isn’t making progress with something you want to teach, think about the smaller steps you can take. The way to keep your 2-Minute dog training games fast, fun, and effective is to keep the steps small. You’ll get where you’re going, whether you take small steps or giant leaps to get there.

How to stop constant dog barking

“How do I get my dog to stop barking?” is always in the top five questions all trainers get.

In response to our last tip “Be There,” we got some questions about the story with the barking dogs. The immediate “fix” was to restrict access to the windows where the dog barks. We talked about how dog learning never happens if you’re not there to teach.

So we have to turn the question around a little. You have to put yourself in the picture. It’s “How do I teach my dog to stop barking?” You’re the one causing the change.

Stop Barking game

Recognize your dog's barking trigger is the first step to training "Quiet."
What’s your dog’s barking trigger?

Recognizing your dog’s barking triggers is the first step in changing the behavior. Is there a particular time of day that your dog barks? If so, what’s going on at that time? It could be any number of things, from kids on their way to school, to the postal carrier, to delivery people. 

If you really want the barking to stop, restrict access to the area/room/window where the dog finds the trigger. This can be as simple as closing the blinds, or putting up a gate. It’s a temporary restriction, until your dog learns “Quiet!”

If there is a regular time your dog barks, be ready in advance. Make sure you have your clicker and really, really yummy treats. If your dog is a habitual barker, he or she is happy when barking. Turning it around will require a really terrific reward.

When your dog lets out a bark, get excited and move toward the window where the dog is barking. “What’s there, Fido?” “What do you see?” Don’t look at your dog, look outside. Chances are this will confuse your dog, since he or she is used to you paying attention to them, instead of what’s outside.

Focus on you

When you think about it, that’s pretty true, isn’t it? When your dog barks, you’ve probably immediately paid attention to the dog, not what they’re barking at. An unintended consequence is that you’ve rewarded your dog with your attention whenever they bark. Which means they’ve learned to bark to get your attention. (Next week we’ll talk about Barking for Attention.)

When your dog looks at you in his confusion, click and reward. “Good quiet!” And walk away from the window. Invite your dog to come with you, rewarding for coming away.  If they don’t keep you company, run away from the window. When your dog catches up to you, give him a treat, or if your dog’s favorite reward is a toy, play a quick game of tug.

That’s all there is to the game – getting your dog’s attention on you instead of the barking trigger. If you have to get between your dog and the stimulus, do it. When Hope’s French Bulldog Torque started barking incessantly at the Husky two doors down, she stepped between Torque and the fence, talking to him to get his attention. As soon as he glanced at her, he got a click and a cookie. A really, really good cookie. Most of the time he just glances at the Husky now. And then runs over to Hope for a treat.

Control the situation

In Torque’s case he went out in our own fenced backyard on leash until he learned the game. Training games only work if both of you are there and paying attention. This wasn’t a game Torque really wanted to play, but he got it.

Your dog will, too. If it happens that your dog starts barking when you’re not prepared, do anything to interrupt the behavior and reset your dog’s focus. You know your dog’s magnets. One of our dogs would come running whenever he heard a M & Ms package rattle. (He only got one – we asked the vet for permission.) Another dashes over when he hears the treat cabinet. Use what you know about your dog! 

Allowing the barking to continue just solidifies the habit. And, as you know, habit is one of the most powerful forces in the universe. Changing an entrenched behavior will take time, but it can be done with patience and consistency.

.