positive reinforcement dog training Archives - Page 5 of 9

Never too late to socialize your dog

Lots of puppies adopted in the last couple of years have been deprived. They’re not accustomed to real life in the real world. There wasn’t a way to properly socialize your dog. There just weren’t the places to go, classes to take, people to see, that other dogs got to experience. The good news is that it’s never too late. Every healthy dog can learn to be calm and confident in public, regardless of age or upbringing.

The pandemic saw the shelters empty as people looked for companionship during the lockdown. That was good for both the animals and the humans. There’s no one who appreciates time spent at home more than your dog. The down side was that these dogs led a sheltered existence, so to speak. The world they grew up in wasn’t the same as the one we have now.

Socializing your dog doesn’t mean they have to like every person or dog. It means they can be calm and listen to you wherever you are, whatever’s around, whoever you’re with.

Getting socialized

Just because your puppy couldn’t go places, meet people, and do things doesn’t mean they’ll never be able to. It does mean some “remedial” socialization has to happen. If your dog grew up in the time of “social distancing,” you just couldn’t do the things that help dogs mature into confident, calm beings with public manners. Now, you can.

The key is to start small. If your dog reacts to people walking by, freaks out when bicycles pass, or can’t handle hordes of traffic, don’t plunge them right into those situations. Figure out your dog’s “comfort zone” and expand their world gradually.

Distance is always your friend when training a reactive dog. Watch your dog’s body language. As long as they’re calm and relaxed, you’re doing fine. Watch for signs of stress. They may not be as obvious as lunging and barking.

Something as subtle as stopping to scratch may be stress. It could also be an itch, so look at your dog’s overall demeanor. Where is she holding her tail, or ears? A stiffly-held tail and laid-back ears are signs of nerves. Is he panting? Are the whites of his eyes showing? All of these say “I’m not comfortable.” If that’s the case, stop where you are and just let the dog adjust.

Using dog training’s most difficult skill

This is the time you need to pull out all your patience and just wait. Hang out with your dog. Let them look around and see there’s nothing threatening. When they look at you, reward. You’re establishing in the dog’s mind that they can trust you. You won’t bring them anywhere that’s scary or unsafe.

In this week’s “Manners” class, the first skill Hope had the dogs practicing was this one – doing nothing. All of these dogs were pandemic puppies, now grown into not-very-socialized dogs. It took a while for them to figure out there was nothing going on. We were all just sitting there. Ignoring their noise-making.

When they figured out there was nothing to bark at – they all stopped barking. Of course there were a few moments when one would forget and start, which triggered all of them. But each episode was shorter and had fewer participants.

If the dog stays calm or neutral, that’s the objective. The next time you can get a little closer and start reducing the size of the dog’s comfort zone. When you reach a point where your dog can sit calmly as people walk by in your quest to socialize your dog, it’s time to ask for some help.

Enlist friends and strangers

Ask people walking by to toss some treats to your dog. Hand them some treats if you can get that close. If not, put them on a surface and step away so the other person can reach the treats. As you calmly discuss the weather with the other person, they can toss the treats near your dog. Strangers, in time, become something to be happy about.

Fran’s almost 14-year-old Brussels Griffon Tango (pictured above) was an extremely reactive dog. He would bark, lunge, and try to bite both people and other dogs. No one but Fran could get near him. Taking him out in public was impossible. That was 13 years ago – he was 11 months old when he came home.

Now, just by the simple method described here, anyone can give Tango treats, pet him, even hold him. His first “cookie ladies” are still his favorite people – other than Fran. He was able to compete in Agility and Rally at large, noisy venues full of other dogs and people. Now, as a retired elder statesman dog, he’s everybody’s friend and a perfect gentleman. (Check out Book 5: Reactive Dog Recipe in the 2-Minute Trainer’s ebook series.) Tango is proof that it’s never too late to socialize your dog.

Socialize your dog at your dog’s speed

However old your dog is, that’s how long they’ve been building their current behavior. It won’t take as long to change it, but it will take patience and consistency. Stretch your dog’s “comfort zone,” but don’t try to smash the barrier all at once. You can have the calm, polite, socialized dog you planned on. It’s just going to take as long as it takes.

Getting to the “Aha!” moment in dog training

It’s the biggest joy. That “Aha!” moment in dog training that happens when the dog gets it and the dog’s owner sees it. When the team comes together in understanding that they can trust each other, work together, and achieve more than they ever imagined.

We got to see it just this week. This person has had dogs for years. She’s followed lots of different dog trainers and tried all different methods of dog training. And in one single session, she saw her dog change, think, learn, and grow. It was kind of wonderful to be part of it.

Let them think

We wish that these amazing training moments were video-worthy. But they’re not. It’s one of those things where you absolutely have to be there to realize something special is going on.

This person really, really wants her dog (a Portuguese Water Dog) to play the “Put Your Toys Away” game. The first step is to set something not-very-valuable to the dog on the floor. And stare at it. At first, the dog either bothers the hand with the treats, nudges the clicker hand, tries licking or whining to get the action started. The owner and I just wait, staring at the “thing.” In this case, it was an antler chew toy, which the dog doesn’t particularly like. Eventually, in his bid to make something happen, the dog accidentally touches the antler with his paw. Click, cookie near the antler.

The dog sits back and stares at us. What just happened? What did I do to get that treat? You can absolutely see the wheels turning in the dog’s brain. We go back to staring at the antler. The dog gets up and tries it again, licking, whining at the treat hand. Nothing. Turns and looks at the antler and slaps it. Click, cookie by the antler.

The “Aha!” moment in dog training arrives. The dog is starting to make the connection. Slap the antler, get a cookie. We’re over our three minutes by then, but the owner wants to keep going.

Next step

After three times pawing at the antler and getting rewarded, we know the dog has figured out that getting the treat has something to do with that object he doesn’t really care about. But he does care about getting treats. For the next step, to encourage growth of the game, we stop rewarding for using his paw. We’re looking for him to use his mouth to pick up the antler.

We could see him get a little frustrated – what worked before isn’t working now. Again, he sits back on his haunches. You can see him thinking. And he comes back to try something else. He mouths the antler! Click and reward. He does it again! Click and reward.

At this point, we’re well over the time threshold and call it a day. The next step will be getting him to hold the antler. Then move while holding it. Then take it to a basket or toy bin. Then drop it. Each little step matters. Some dogs will get it right away. Others may still be at the starting line. But, with your patience, every single dog will experiment to see what gets the reward.

When they know, they know

When you have a dog that’s accustomed to trying new things, thinking of solutions, and experimenting, you have a phenomenal companion and partner. Dogs become more confident, more social, better-behaved, and much more fun. And while the behaviors you learn together may go viral, the process isn’t exciting. Mostly what you’re doing is watching and waiting. The result is worth it. The owner, attuned to her dog, had an “Aha!” moment of her own. It was the first time she’d seen him think, solve, and grow before her eyes.

You can’t teach dogs “don’t”

There’s no way to teach dogs “don’t”

“Stop! Don’t do that!” When you say it in “Mom Voice,” most children will freeze and stare at you. Whatever they were caught doing stops immediately. Dogs? Not so much. It’s practically impossible to teach a dog “don’t. That’s the biggest difference between talking to a toddler and a dog.

You can't teach dogs "don't," but you can teach them to do something else instead of jumping.

That doesn’t mean dogs get away with unacceptable behaviors. But when someone asks how to teach their dog “not to jump,” it’s the wrong question. A better, faster, easier approach is to give the dog something else to do instead of jumping on people. (We educated our cousin how to refocus her dog from jumping not long ago.)

Instead behaviors

Think about it. All of the successful things you’ve taught your dog, from potty-training to complex tricks, are teaching them what to do. Not what not to do. If you just thought “Wait! Potty training is teaching the dog not to eliminate in the house!” That’s how you think of it. In fact, what you’ve trained your dog is where they should eliminate.

It’s the same for any other dog’s naughty behavior. We teach our dogs to “Sit!” as a response to a doorbell ringing or a knock on the door. They’re doing something, instead of “not” jumping.

For a while, we believed our dogs knew how to “Leave it!” It’s what we used when their noses poked into the wastebaskets, or they obsessed over the place the bunny dove under the gate. What we really taught our dogs was to refocus on us and get rewarded. Instead of the negative “stop that” behavior intended, we got a “look at me” behavior. That realization changed nothing. We still got what we wanted. Our dogs leave the thing alone. And we still say “Leave it!” because that’s what we’re all used to.

Call it whatever you want

Do the dogs understand the phrase “leave it?” No. They understand that when they hear those words there’s something they’re supposed to do. As long as you’re consistent with the words you attach to behaviors, it works. Like Humpty Dumpty in Alice in Wonderland: “When I use a word… it means just what I choose it to mean – neither more nor less.”

So although the “Leave it!” command is phrased as something “not” to do, there’s actually a positive “something” to do attached. If there’s anything your dog does that you wish they wouldn’t, the most effective way to change the behavior is to give them something to do instead.

Works for all kinds of things

Changing how you phrase things gives you the ability to translate it into “dog.” Since you can’t teach your dogs don’t pull on the leash, instead train them to walk at your side. Rather than “stop counter-surfing,” teach them where their “Place!” is in the kitchen. Substitute “get your toy” for barging into someone coming in the door.

Think about the things your dog does that annoy you. Be honest – every dog is occasionally annoying. Picture what you’d like your dog to do in those circumstances. Then you’ll have a plan to turn things around. What would you like him/her to be doing instead? And how can you make a training game out of it? Now you’re thinking like a dog trainer.

Electronic fences are dog tasers

Ever been tempted by the ads for in-ground electric fences that will keep your dog “safely” in your yard? Did you know it’s advertising dog tasers?

Did you hear Hope’s head explode this week? It happened on Monday when she was following up with a new student in her Manners/Obedience class. The person asked “Can you explain to me what’s aversive about an electric dog fence?” (She used the trademarked brand name.)

Really? Seriously? Stick a collar on your dog with metal spikes facing his neck, turn it on, and you have the equivalent of a taser aimed at your dog. And that taser goes off with the press of a button.

After Hope picked her jaw up off the floor, she explained that administering an electric shock is a painful punishment that relies on fear. At this point, the student said the company installing / training her new fence had modified its methods. This time, they didn’t run the dog through the fence to train it. OMG!

Think about it

When a company has in its FAQs on its website that its product doesn’t really hurt the animal, something’s wrong. “The correction from a (collar) may be uncomfortable and startling to your pet, it will not hurt them. Many pets only feel the correction once or twice and don’t challenge the system afterwards.” The reason the pet doesn’t challenge the system is because it’s afraid of being zapped again. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

Anything that causes your dog pain, fear, or “discomfort” is an aversive. And that’s not even the worst part of electronic fences. The worst part is that, in the heat of a chase, your dog may barrel through the barrier and not care, hyped up on adrenaline. And then, when the excitement subsides, they can’t get back into the yard without getting zapped. So they don’t.

Careful marketing

We see ads all the time for different products that promise to instantly solve dog problems; barking, pulling, jumping, chewing. All of them claim not to hurt the dog. They’re all liars.

There are no fast and easy “fixes” for dog behavior. Anything that promises an instant fix relies on doing something the dog doesn’t like. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. But at least look for something that adheres to the LIMA philosophy of “least intrusive, minimally aversive.” Dogs don’t necessarily love the no-pull harness that we carry in our shop. But it doesn’t cause long-term damage to the dog’s shoulders, as front-attaching harnesses do. And using it doesn’t cause discomfort or “startle” the dog. They may not like being drawn in a different direction (toward you), but it doesn’t cause them pain.

The air-horn type devices that are marketed to stop barking, the “silent” correctors – these are all aversives designed to stop some dog behavior. But all of them rely on you having the controller and being willing to “startle” your dog. None of them teach the dog anything but to be afraid of the thing. And possibly afraid of you. (We’ve written before that dog training shouldn’t hurt. And all dog training should strengthen the bond you have with your dog.)

Make a difference

You love your dog. Why on earth would you want to do something that causes them pain? Or even “discomfort?” Especially when there are other means that not only work better, but are actually fun for both of you? Positive reinforcement training does take time. Hopefully, you and your dog have a lifetime to play together. Make the most of it. Do it with kindness, and fun.

Dog Training Game: Gimme your face!

Torque's "Gimme your face!" pose. — Torque’s “Gimme your face!” pose.

Part of having dogs is all the “husbandry” stuff you have to do – brushing, cleaning, grooming, etc. Lots of dogs don’t particularly care for it – especially if you’re trying to mess with their face. Wouldn’t you, your veterinarian, and your groomer love it if your dog was a willing participant? That’s why we teach the “Gimme your face!” dog training game.

Like all communication between you and your dog, you can call the game whatever you want. A friend of ours uses “Chin!” to get her dog to lie flat with chin on the ground. It was her cue for the obedience “down-stay” exercise. Whatever you can easily remember would be just fine. We like “Gimme Your Face!” because it makes us smile.

Gimme Your Face was a game changer

And it can be incredibly useful. Quite a while ago, we had a Boston Terrier named Daemon. Unfortunately, Daemon developed cataracts in his eyes when he was only about seven years old. At the time, veterinary ophthalmologists would remove the cloudy lens, but did not implant a new one as they do today. Which would have been awful for Daemon – his favorite game was fetching his beloved yellow rubber ball.

So we asked our own optometrist if he would consider fitting Daemon for contact lenses. He agreed and our regular veterinarian came with – it was the only legal way the eye doctor could prescribe for a dog.

To get to the point for this tip – Daemon knew “Gimme Your Face!” And that was how we got him to rest his chin on the gizmo doctors use to look into your eyes. That same place you put your chin – Daemon knew to put his! If he hadn’t already known the game, there was no way the doctor could have prescribed contact lenses for Daemon.

Every day after work we would ask “Daemon, want to put your eyes in?” and he would run into the bathroom to have us put his contacts in. And every evening before bed, we would take them out. Over the next several years he only lost a couple of contacts – he loved being able to see.

Variation on “Touch!”

So how do you teach your dog to “Gimme Your Face!”? One of the very first training games dogs should learn is “Touch!” – touching their nose to the palm of your hand. If your dog doesn’t already play this regularly, start here: Training Touch! We like it because it’s a game you can easily play anywhere, especially when your dog is stressed and nervous. Remember that familiar games help dogs regain focus and composure.

To teach “Gimme Your Face!,” begin with the “Touch!” and, while rewarding your dog for the touch, slide your palm underneath the dog’s chin/jaw, cradling it lightly. Say “Good Face!” (or “Chin!” or your own word), reward again, and remove your hand.

Repeat the same sequence a few times, until your dog seems comfortable with it. Some dogs really love getting their chins/throats scratched, and easily learn this new game. Especially if you tickle or scratch them at the jaw.

Next steps

When you think your dog is starting to understand the game, try cupping your palm and saying “Face!” If your dog readily puts their chin in your palm – click and reward! “Good Face!”

The next step is to build some duration into “Gimme Your Face!” It’s easy to do – just keep your dog’s chin in your hand and deliver treats. Short intervals at first, then gradually increasing the time between rewards. If your dog lifts their head, return the treat in your hand to the bowl. Leave your hand in place and wait for your dog to replace their chin in your palm.

As always, some dogs love the game and catch on immediately. Others take a little longer. But it’s worth waiting for and being patient. Imagine how much easier it will be for you to brush your dog’s teeth and clean their ears if they willingly “Gimme your face!”

Give your dog time and tools

Do you give your dog time? Or do you expect your three-month-old puppy to be housebroken in a couple weeks? Leash-trained in a month? Stay out of the trash / laundry / mud instantaneously? It would be interesting if dogs came pre-programmed for all the “right” behavior. But they’re not machines. They’re living, breathing, thinking beings. And dogs need time to learn.

Say you’re out in public and you see a parent and child about two years old. The child is on a crying jag, screaming, kicking, and out of control. And the parent shouts and smacks the child.

You’re shocked! It’s obvious the child is overtired and the situation needs calm, not escalation. You don’t expect a two-year-old to know how to act in public, be perfectly potty-trained, and a pro at self-soothing. But many people expect a months-old puppy to be all of that and more.

Why positive reinforcement dog training “fails”

Positive reinforcement dog training is the best, scientifically proven means of training your dog. It works on people, it works on dogs. It doesn’t work fast, and it’s often misunderstood. Just like a human child is given time to learn at their own pace, without repercussions, dogs need time to learn, absorb, and practice good social behavior.

Lately there’s been a lot of nonsense floating around social media that positive training equals letting a dog do whatever it wants, whenever it wants. Nothing could be further from the truth. Dogs trained with positive reinforcement understand the limits of behavior and abide by them because they know. Not because they fear punishment if they fail.

Complete opposites

The nastiest trend in dog training lately is “balanced” training. From the explanations, it seems like this is a capricious mix of punishment and reward. If the dog does something good, it’s rewarded. If it does something “bad,” it’s corrected. But how is a dog supposed to know which is which? And how is “good” different from “bad”? Can you imagine living life at someone’s whim? Never knowing when something you do is going to end in pain? Dogs deserve better.

Until your dog understands how to be “good,” it’s up to you to limit the dog’s options for “bad.” If your dog steals shoes, keep shoes out of reach. Does your dog dig in your backyard? Go with him and keep him on leash. If your two-year-old child is fascinated by trucks, you stop him from running into the street. You don’t wait until he’s in traffic to act. You teach him not to do it. And pain isn’t part of the lesson. When one strategy in the 2-Minute method isn’t working the way we expect it to, we move to another: our “Plan B” – never a painful lesson.

Frustrating for the dog

One of our students has a bright, exuberant Miniature Poodle who she wants to compete with. One of his persistent problems in Hope’s competition Obedience class has been with the recall exercise. Instead of running straight to his Mom, at least half the time he runs over to Hope and starts jumping on her “Hi, I’m here!” “Hi!” “Hello!” “It’s me!”

Since Hope never encourages him, rarely looks at him, pets him, or talks to him, she didn’t understand why he does it. Until last week. His mom brought him into the building on leash, and he immediately spotted a new person. The dog ran over to this person while his mom said “He’s going to jump on you.” Since classes are at a dog daycare facility, it didn’t bother the person. Hope, witnessing this, told the dog’s mom she shouldn’t allow it. And was firmly told to mind her own business.

This dog will never understand why it’s okay to jump on a random man in the lobby and not the judge in the Obedience trial. His mother could easily turn this around – the dog is smart and eager to learn.

Keys to dog training

Dogs are easy to train if you abide by the key rules:

Be consistent. The rules are always in effect. Either it’s never okay to jump on people, or it’s always okay. Dogs know black and white. Shades of gray are alien.
Learning takes time. Be patient. You’ll know when your dog starts to think about their choices. Be on the lookout for those moments of decision – when your dog thinks before acting. That little hesitation before choosing the right thing is a triumph. Celebrate all the little wins.
Until your dog knows, control access. Remember there are three ways of dealing with dog behavior. Ignore the things you don’t care about. Manage the things your dog doesn’t know yet. Train the things you want your dog to know.

Give your dog the tools and the time

Real World Dog Training

How true-to-life is your dog training routine? Is your dog up to real world dog training? What happens when you’re in the middle of a 2-Minute training game and someone in the house starts banging pots in the kitchen? Or somebody opens the door, either leaving or coming home? Does your dog stick with the game and play with you? Or do they run off to see what the fuss is about?

It’s hard to focus on what you’re doing when somebody elsewhere may be more interesting. Dogs are really curious beings – they always want to be in the middle of the action. How do you get your dog to stick with what you’re doing, rather than run off to explore that odd sound in the other room?

Being with Fran was more rewarding than exploring. — Being with Fran was rewarding

The best answer is to set up the situation and teach your dog there’s nothing more interesting than playing training games with you. The harshest test we ever dealt with was many years ago in a puppy class. Our instructor stopped at a fast-food restaurant on the way to class. He threw fresh, yummy-smelling french fries all over the floor. And our job was to walk our puppies from one end of the room to the other – without the dogs grabbing a single morsel. We’re delighted to report that all the puppies succeeded. And, when that trial-by-fire was over, he allowed us to share a couple of fries with our good dogs.

Are you more interesting than a french fry?

If you’re not sure, it’s time to fill your dog training games with fun, energy, and really high-level rewards. If you use a bunch of different treats your dog loves, have a fresh batch of this “trail mix” handy. If your dog’s favorite reward is playing tug, stick a great tug toy in your pocket, ready to whip out at any moment. Randomize rewards so your dog never knows when the next one is coming.

Dogs love schedules and patterns and it’s easy to fall into habits in dog training. To pull an example from obedience competition – in the “Recall” exercise, when called, the dog runs to you from across the room and sits directly in front. When told or signaled, the dog then “Finishes” the exercise by going to heel position at your left side. There are two different ways for the dog to get there. He can either go to your right and circle behind you to get to heel. Or he can swing into position toward your left side.

The Finish always follows the Recall. Every single time. Which means that dogs, being smart, understand what’s coming next. And they “save you the trouble” and go right into heel position instead of stopping in front. Which, depending on the judge, can mean failing the exercise. So how do you fix it?

Randomize it! If dogs don’t know what’s coming next – they pay attention to what’s actually going on. Sometimes ask for the circle finish. Other times the swing. Still others, tell your dog to wait and go around them!

Embrace the chaos

Randomizing all the factors in dog training games ensures your dog can ignore distractions, focus on you and your game, and disregard outside influences. Ask your family to make weird, random noises from various rooms. And if, after a quick glance, your dog stays with your game, reward heavily – an instant game of tug, and series of high-value treats, a quick belly-rub/wrestling match.

Just like playing games in different locations cements the learning with your dog, working through various distractions will help them focus when you need them to. If your dog is incredibly distracted when the doorbell rings, get a doorbell app on your phone and play different rings during 2-Minute dog training game sessions. If it’s somebody talking on the phone that your dog can’t resist, ask someone to sit to the side during your game and talk into the phone (whether or not there’s someone on the other end).

Set your dog up with different scenarios you can practice in a controlled manner. If your dog is constantly underfoot when someone’s trying to prepare food in the kitchen, have a mat or bed in there and practice “place!” Create real world dog training dilemmas and help your dog deal with them.

No training bubble for you!

Your dog lives in the real world. Set her up for success by creating real-life situations and getting her to concentrate despite the distractions. It’s tempting to stay in an isolated environment where your dog is always perfect. But it’s like the first-time parents of a newborn infant insisting that everyone be quiet because the baby’s sleeping. Baby has to learn to sleep through all kinds of real world noise. And doggo has to learn to focus in the real world, too.

Teach your dog “Poop” on command

Nobody relishes standing out in the rain waiting for their dog’s to eliminate. You can make life easier for both of you when you teach your dog “Poop” on command.

There’s an old joke that an alien visiting our planet for the first time would be convinced that dogs are the species in control because their minions follow them around, pick up their poop, and carry it around.

But every responsible dog owner has the obligation to clean up after their dogs, regardless of what aliens think of us. But it would make life better if our dogs would eliminate when and where we want, rather than taking forever to find the perfect spot.

You must be willing

To achieve the “poop on command” goal, you have to be willing to commit. You must go out with your dog every single time, you must have treats with you, and you must be clear and consistent.

Even though we have a fenced yard, we go out with our dogs every single time. Even if it’s raining, sleeting, or three in the morning.

There are lots of reasons we do:

When we had a nasty-dog neighbor, we could avoid fence fighting.
We can stop our dogs from eating various unknown, nasty things in the yard.
We get first dibs on the bread slices the squirrel drops in our yard (yes, we do have foolish neighbors).
It lets us know if one of the dogs has stomach issues, before they mess the house.
We know which dog has the tummy trouble.

Is it convenient? Not particularly. Especially with multiple dogs, we think it’s wise.

Getting cooperation

Everybody poops. That’s a given, as well as a beloved children’s book. Learning your dog’s schedule makes for easier housebreaking and elimination training.

When you know your dog has to go, head out with them. If there’s a particular place you want them to go, put them on collar/harness and leash and head directly to that spot and wait. If your dog is one that wanders around before getting down to business, take a couple laps around the yard with them and go back to the chosen spot.

Then it’s a waiting game. For the kabillionth time, we’ll repeat the doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But waiting is the best thing you can do.

When they hit the mark, praise and reward. Call it whatever phrase you choose to use. We use “go poop” because we got over being embarrassed in public long ago. A friend of ours uses “Hit it!” We assume she’ll never be part of a band.

Every single time

If you want your dog to learn to poop on command, you have to praise, phrase (good poop!), and reward every single time.

We’re often asked when praise and treats can be phased out. The answer is always never. When you’re willing to do your job without pay, that’s when you can phase out your dog’s.

Easy and Fun Dog Training

Games are easy and fun dog training. And, over time, the most effective and long-lasting learning for your dog.

Long term benefits outweigh short-term attention in dog training.

And that’s where we see people getting frustrated and tempted to use aversive methods. Just this week one of our puppy class students pleaded to use a pinch collar on his five-month old Golden Retriever. Because when he tried it, he got better attention immediately.

That’s the way aversives, pain training, works. You’d pay attention, too, if it was the only way to not get choked.

Long-term gains

Fortunately, this man does want to do better by his puppy. He’s a long-time aversive trainer, so positive, game-based dog training is new to him. He was accustomed to instant obedience from his dogs. But he had to enforce that throughout their lives. They didn’t obey because they understood. They obeyed because they wanted to avoid pain.

The issue with this puppy is that she’s smart, curious, and five months old. The other dogs and people in class are more interesting than her people. So the first step is to be more interesting than anything else around.

Building the bond

He’s used to tugging on the puppy’s collar whenever he wants her to look at him. It’s going to take a conscious effort on his part to change that. It’s habit to say her name and pop the collar, not even giving her time to move her head.

The hardest thing in positive reinforcement dog training is waiting. Patience is not only a virtue, it’s a requirement. Jack’s assignment is to say his puppy’s name and wait for her to look at him. Not say anything else. Not let her go wandering off. Just wait, calmly.

Eventually, with nothing else available to do, the puppy will look at him. And that’s when he pounces with a celebration and reward. That reward is whatever is most valuable to the puppy – food, a game of tug, or on-leash fetch, or even a little wrestling match.

She will learn that looking at her “dad” is the most fun thing to do. It always, every single time, results in happy, fun games. It’s the best thing ever! And that’s how you build your bond with your dog.

Checking in

Jack and his wife are under instructions to reward their puppy every single time she looks at either one of them. They have treat bowls in every room in the house, and pouches to carry outside. For three months, since they got her, the puppy hasn’t been encouraged to engage with them. The focus has been on the toy, the food, the leaves blowing down the street.

They will be able to claim her focus if they make the investment. What gets rewarded, gets repeated. If the puppy is rewarded every time she looks at them, she’s going to look at them a lot more. And, when her people are more interesting, she’s less likely to find everything else so distracting.

Long-term investments pay off

When the puppy understands that looking at her people will always result in good stuff, it’s a lesson learned for life. It may take longer to penetrate than choking. But it’s a conversion worth making. Nobody really wants to hurt their dog. When you know better, you do better.

Dogs Tell On Their Trainers

Dogs tell us everything we need to know to be effective trainers. It’s how well we’re paying attention that makes the difference. Dogs are really honest – brutally so. And they’re excellent at pointing out the gaps in our training. Dogs are notorious for tattling on their trainers.

Boston Terrier on a balance disc to illustrate Dogs Tell. — Simon’s “crouchy-hovery” stand started on the balance disc.

Simon demonstrated the point this week. The “Stand” exercise has always been challenging for him. Fran had to change the word to “Station,” after he became convinced that “Stand” meant sort-of-crouching with his butt in the air. Stand has always been a weird bugaboo for him. (Learn more about starting new, rather than fixing it in the tip: “Don’t Fix Your Dog.”)

Lately, he’s been spot-on when he hears “Station” in the “Stand for Exam” exercise in Novice class. From the heel position, he pops up like a champ, and stands like a stone for the “head, shoulder, hip” examination. Naturally, we expected that he now understands what “Station” means.

Take nothing for granted

We found out – not so much. When we’re out in the yard, we play recall games with the dogs. They run back and forth between us for treats. Sometimes they get rewards just for coming. Other times they have to “do something” to get a treat. The other day Hope said “Station!” to Simon as he came to a stop in front of her. All he had to do was stand still. He did everything but.

Fran tried it – after all, he is her dog and training partner. Same result – down, sit, back up, etc. Everything but the stand we were looking for. She tried again with Simon at her side instead of in front of her. Perfect “Station!”

Dogs always tell

Simon was telling us, clear as day, that he understands “Station” only in context. He hasn’t generalized it at all. It matters where he’s positioned, where we’re training, and who’s asking him for the behavior. And, when he told us, we’re listening to him.

When your dog highlights the gaps in training, don’t be disappointed or frustrated. If your dog understands parts of the whole, you’re on track for filling in the rest. Just like you taught your dog the parts he/she knows, you can build understanding for the whole behavior.

Work the arc

In the example of Simon’s “Station!,” we’ll start by working a step at a time. Literally. Starting at heel position, we’ll take a step away, return and reward “Station!” if he stays put. Then we’ll take a small, side step away before we say “Station!” and see if he understands. We’ll gradually work in an arc, until we can stand facing him and he understands when we give the command.

Once dogs understand a word means the same thing no matter where you are, what you’re doing, or who says it, they’ve got it. The same holds true for hand signals. It may need a refresh once in a while, but it won’t be starting from scratch. As long as you use the command or signal once in a while, it should stay in their memory banks.