positive reinforcement dog training Archives - Page 2 of 11

Develop some “cookie people”

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Some dogs are people-oriented and love everybody. Other dogs love a select few and are indifferent to anyone else. And then there are dogs who actively dislike anyone outside of their family and friends circle. These dogs can be challenging to live with, difficult to exercise, and impossible to bring anywhere with you. These are the dogs who most urgently need Cookie People.

The last kind of dog is also the one that might get labelled as “reactive.” While they may react rudely to strangers or unfamiliar situations, please don’t call them reactive. That word is often used interchangeably with “aggressive,” and that’s not the reputation you want your dog to have. Instead, if you must call them something, try using “excitable.” It conveys the same message, without the negative layer of meaning.

Toning down the conversation

Your dog falls into the “excitable” category if they bark at people for no reason, pull toward (or away) from strangers, and offer anti-social behaviors in new situations. In most cases, it’s probably fear-aggression. The dog is trying to act tough so no one knows how frightened they are. But we’ll never really know why. Instead, it’s up to us to teach the dog how to greet the world calmly.

One of the best techniques for chiseling away at the fear wall is to enlist an army of “Cookie People.” This may be well outside your comfort zone, but it’s necessary for your dog’s wellbeing. It’s easy enough. Just stick a bag full of your dog’s favorite treats in your pocket, leash up your dog, and go face the unsuspecting public.

Confronting strangers

The goal is to convince your dog that people are harmless. That means getting out there and talking to at least one person every day. While it can’t be the same person all the time, you should, at least for the first day, pre-arrange the encounter.

Call a friend and arrange to meet them somewhere in your neighborhood at a specific time and place. The friend should know the “script” for your encounter, which looks like this:

You and your dog are walking in the neighborhood. Up ahead, you see the fake “stranger” headed in your direction.

When you are within a few feet of each other, you ask the “stranger” if he/she will toss cookies to your dog.

The “stranger” agrees. You ask him/her not to look directly at the dog, just please toss a few treats (at least four, as many as 10) on the ground close to your dog. While tossing the treats, have a chat with the stranger, both of you ignoring the dog.

When the treats are all tossed, you and your dog say “goodbye” and continue on your walk, as does your fake “stranger.”

Rinse and repeat

If your dog is visibly upset, or won’t eat the treats, don’t push it. Don’t let the dog get close to the other person. Until their excitability is resolved, there could be trouble if your dog jumps on someone or causes them to trip.

If the dog won’t eat the treats today, try again tomorrow with better treats. This is an exercise in behavior modification and requires the treats your dog loves more than any others.

If, on the other hand, your dog was successful at disregarding the other person and enjoyed the treats thoroughly, it’s time to grow the behavior. Prepare to start confronting total strangers.

Socializing right

This socialization game is one we always play with new puppies or foster dogs in our lives. The pandemic caused some modifications in the original game, but it still works. We used to ask people if they would toss treats to our dog. When they agreed, we would just hand them a few treats. Nowadays, we pre-package a few treats in little plastic bags to give people who agree

It’s surprising how many people are willing to do you a favor, especially when you have a cute dog at your side. Since you aren’t asking for any interaction between the person and the dog, even some people who don’t like dogs will help you out. People who love dogs may be more of a problem. They may want to greet your dog, pet your dog, or deliver the treats by hand. Don’t let them. If you have to, admit that your dog is afraid of people and their behavior isn’t reliable. Make it clear that you’re in control. If the person tries to convince you they know better,, thank the person and leave. The last thing you need is someone putting pressure on your dog. If the person is too pushy, the dog may feel trapped and lash out.

Keep at it

Try to “meet” a few people every week. The more people who toss treats at your dog, the more your dog will be convinced that people are worth knowing.

We know that introverts are going to find this difficult. You can do it. Most people will be sympathetic and help. In the situation we know best, Fran’s dog Tango collected dozens of treat-tossers before he was at ease in new situations. Now, at 16 years old, he still adores some of his original Cookie People.

Your dog can control his impulses

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If you think your dog is demonstrating impulse control when they sit motionless waiting for their food, you’re wrong.

You’re also wrong if you think impulse control is greeting guests with all four paws planted on the floor.

Both of these examples are trained behaviors, not impulse control. They’re both excellent things to teach your dog. But neither teaches the dog impulse control

What is impulse control?

Simply put, impulse control is the ability to think before you act and make good choices. In the examples, the dog has no choice. They’ve been taught what to do in each scenario and they’re doing it. They’re not “choosing” to be good. They understand what they should do and do it.

Years ago it was considered good dog training to tell your dog what to do at all times and make them do it. Our first mentor in training said “Never let a dog make a decision. They’ll always make the wrong one.” Fortunately, he’s changed since then. Now we know that good dog training is teaching dogs how to make good decisions. Impulse control is at the heart of good decision-making.

Ready for anything

Trained behaviors, like waiting to be released before eating, are perfectly fine for things that happen all the time. Mealtimes probably happen about the same time, in the same place, and in the same order every day. It’s an entirely predictable sequence that both your and your dog know and one that works for you.

Impulse control is the valuable tool your dog will need when confronted with different, unexpected, and unpredictable circumstances. Dogs’ innate instincts tell them they have two options, fight or flight. Dogs taught impulse control know that their first reaction isn’t necessarily the right one.

Give them the tools

If your dog acts without thinking it’s time to teach them the skills they need to make good decisions. A good place to start is our e-book Impulse Control.

Just this week we taught the game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” to our competition Obedience class. One woman, who has a Labrador Retriever, was convinced her dog would never catch on. He continued to lick and nibble on her hand, not trying anything else. But it only took about five minutes before he got the idea. She was ready to give up after three. Impulse control training may test your patience, as well as your dog’s. But many worthwhile things in life aren’t easy.

It may not be the fastest, most entertaining training game you play with your dog. But it may prove to be the most valuable training you ever share with your dog.

Positive reinforcement works on people, too

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We were fans of the tv show “The Big Bang Theory.” One episode featured a classic example of positive reinforcement training.

If you watched the show, you know that the primary characters, Leonard and Sheldon, were scientists. Sheldon, in generous terms, wasn’t adept at social interaction. In this episode, Leonard, his girlfriend Penny, and Sheldon are watching TV. When Penny talks over the program, Sheldon gets annoyed. He gives her a glare and she promises to be quiet. He offers her a chocolate. Penny’s phone rings and, after a glance at Sheldon, says she’ll go into the hall to talk. Sheldon offers her a chocolate.

Sheldon’s applying positive reinforcement to get what he wants. Leonard notices and says:

“Sheldon, you can’t train my girlfriend like a lab rat!”

Sheldon replies “Actually it turns out I can.”

Not a new concept

While most sources attribute positive reinforcement to B.F. Skinner’s development of operant conditioning in the 1930s, the concept is much, much older. Ever heard the proverb “You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar”? Ben Franklin’s Poor Richard’s Almanac cited it in 1844.

Positive reinforcement is one of the quadrants of operant conditioning. Explaining the other three would dive deep into weeds most people would rather not explore. If you, too, are nerdily interested, there’s lots to find. Have fun!

The point is that positive reinforcement works on people as well as dogs. Everybody is more interested and eager if they know their efforts will be appreciated. Sometimes that’s a simple “thank you!” or “well done!” And sometimes it’s a piece of chocolate.

Getting where you want to be

Research has proven that positive reinforcement works better for learning and retention than punishment-based training. “Reward-based dog training offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare,” according to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, which says there is no evidence that aversive practices are necessary for dog training or behavior modification.

It’s also true that positive reinforcement training requires time and patience. Having a background in correction-based training, we know that a few strong “collar pops” will probably stop a dog from pulling. It will also make the dog fear the collar and cause pain. Punishment-based trainers have euphemisms to describe what they do. “Collar pop” or “correction” sounds better than yanking on a dog’s collar to hurt them.

Getting a dog to understand what you want is like playing charades with an alien. You don’t have a common language, you can only communicate through motions and rewards. It takes time to reach understanding. Once your dog realizes that every little training game will be fun and rewarding, they’ll love those sessions.

Take a breath

It may take a while for the light bulb to turn on in your dog’s brain. You may get to a point where, after a week or two, you’re wondering if you’re doing something wrong or if you have the dumbest dog on the planet. That’s just about the time when you can expect your dog to come up with flashes of brilliance. Just when you’re starting to despair.

Sticking with short, fun training games isn’t a huge commitment. Devoting ten or 15 minutes a day to your dog should be something you look forward to. The best way to start the day is playing a couple games with your best friend. Just ask your dog.

Muzzles are good management

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What do you think when you see a person walking around with a muzzled dog? Are you wary? Do you grab your dog and cross the street? Thinking needs to change. In fact, muzzles are good management.

Sadly, the stigma attached to using a muzzle for your dog prevents many people from using one of the least intrusive, most useful dog management tools ever. Using a muzzle prevents your dog from starting any trouble and insures they won’t contribute to any they find.

Everyday wear

Take the case of a dog from our “Impulse Control” class. He’s a young dog, a medium-sized terrier. Let’s call him Sam. Sam is the first dog of a very nice young couple, and he does great in their apartment. He does okay on walks. He’s nipped two people in the elevator. That’s a problem. And a pretty big one.

Sam isn’t a mean dog. He’s a young, scared dog who doesn’t get the distance he needs to feel safe when he’s in an elevator. The absolute cardinal rule for fear-aggressive dogs is “distance is your friend.” The fear reaches a boiling point when the dog is trapped and unable to move away.

Sam’s people have to take the elevator. Sometimes they’re not going to be able to wait for an empty car, or be able to ask other people not to get in. Everybody’s got places to go and schedules to keep. What they can do, to make sure that everyone, including Sam, is safe.

Muzzle your dog

We started muzzle-training the dogs in impulse control class. Every dog should be accustomed to a muzzle – you never know what circumstances may require it. If your dog is injured, they will also be frightened. And they might lash out at people who are trying to help. Emergency vets and technicians routinely muzzle dogs – you can’t know how much pain a dog is in, or how it will react. Most dog owners, fortunately, don’t know how their dogs would react to an injury. Muzzles are good management – even the calmest, most well-behaved dog might react poorly to a perceived threat – especially if the dog is in pain. Plus, a muzzle means that your dog won’t pick up strange objects in the backyard.

The first step in muzzle-training is like any other game. Get the dog familiar with the object and reward interaction with the thing. Looking at it, sniffing it, pawing at it, taking it in their mouth – all are steps in familiarization. Reward each interaction. Ideally, put your hand through the muzzle to reward your dog, so the muzzle becomes part of the interaction.

Over the course of a few 2-Minute sessions, accustom the dog to the muzzle. Depending on the kind of muzzle, you can put your hand through while giving your dog treats. Start asking your dog to stick his nose/muzzle in the muzzle. If you don’t have one, or if the dog needs time to get used to the muzzle, use a plastic glass or cone and ask your dog to stick their nose in. Reward in or by the thing to build value in the interaction.

If your dog is skittish, don’t even try putting the muzzle on until your dog has made friends with it. We want dogs to believe that muzzles are no big deal. Because they’re not. Or at least they shouldn’t be. Muzzle-training your dog means you care about everybody’s safety in any situation. It’s “what if” training that we hope your dog will never need.

Not always everywhere

In Impulse Control class, we had no muzzles, so we used plastic cones to simulate something for the dogs to stick their faces into. Once they figured out that treats were involved, they were shoving their noses in as far as they could go.

Sam’s parents have the task of finding a muzzle that works for them and their dog. (For a description of various types of muzzles, see “Every dog needs a muzzle.”) They asked if they had to use it all the time. The answer is yes. And no. Since Sam’s issues are in enclosed spaces, he needs to wear it in the apartment building and elevator. Once they get outside, it can come off. They can achieve the distance from other people/dogs/objects that Sam finds scary.

The elevator trip back home also requires the muzzle back on. And, if friendly neighbors are sharing the ride, by all means ask them to give Sam treats.

Defy dog logic

We’ve had people who say “I’m not giving a dog treats for growling at me!” That’s a complete misinterpretation of what’s going on. You’re not rewarding the growling, or reactive behavior. Instead, you’re proving to the dog that you’re not frightening and you’re a nice person. All people are nice.

That’s the message dogs should get from all strangers. Especially dogs who are somewhat fearful. The objective is to reassure them that you’ll keep them safe. They have nothing to fear. Not even fear itself. And muzzles are good management.

The worst thing to say about your dog

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This week one of our dog training students said just about the worst thing ever about her dog. It happened when somebody brought a mini see-saw to training to loan it to a classmate.

All the dogs were checking it out and trying it. And one woman, who really should have known better, said “My dog won’t.”

Amazing turn around

She should have known better than to say, “My dog won’t.” When we first met “Marni” and her dog “Zoey,” in our beginner obedience class, Zoey was a frightened, loud people-shy, basket case of a dog. Through training games and positive reinforcement, that changed.

Zoey is now in the competition Rally class, social with every person she meets and fine sharing space with other dogs. She’s still loud, but now it’s not “Get away from me!” Now she barks because she’s impatient for her “turn” in class and loves doing all the stuff with her mom.

Never “can’t” or “won’t”

As we recall, Marni was skeptical at first. She thought Zoey was destined for a sheltered life, never going anywhere or doing anything because of her fear aggression.

Zoey is living proof that the past doesn’t have to define the future. Despite her doubts, Marni embraced the methods and training games. And saw her little dog blossom into a confident, capable companion who enjoys learning new things and showing them off. And we’ve seen other dogs blossom as well.

If you say your dog “can’t” or “won’t” it’s guaranteed not to happen. If you don’t believe they can, they never will.

Manifesting destiny

We called Marni on her “won’t” right on the spot. Was Zoey wary of the little see-saw? Yes. Did we pull her over to it and make her get on it? No, of course not.

What we did was have Marni bring Zoey only as close as Zoey was comfortable. Gave her treats and told her she was a good, brave girl. We moved it up and down, letting her see the motion and hear the sounds.

Zoey decided it wasn’t so scary. She saw some of her classmates go back and forth on it, walking confidently even when it banged against the floor.

She got more comfortable and was willing to get closer.

By the end of class, she was next to the see-saw, even taking treats off its deck.

Add a word

Was Zoey bopping back and forth on the see-saw? No. But next time she sees it she might. And Marni, a primary school teacher, remembered that we can’t limit others with “can’t” or “won’t.” Unless you add “today.”

Maybe Zoey can’t today. Maybe there’s something your dog can’t today. But there’s no telling what they’ll be capable of tomorrow. Give them the opportunity and maybe they can and will.

Dog Training Game – Turning in Circles

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What you call your dog’s “turning in circles” games depends on the level where it’s happening.

If your dog is lying on the floor, it’s “Roll Over!”

When your dog is standing with all four feet on the ground, it’s “Spin!”

If your dog’s up on their hind feet, it’s “Dance!” (mostly because pirouette is too hard to say and spell).

By the way, all three are great Kitchen Games – behaviors that don’t need a lot of room, not much time, and just a handful of treats.

Three games in one

All three variations start with the same action – turning your dog’s head one way or the other. With a treat held near the dog’s nose, just move it slowly to the side and back. Dogs get the idea better if your arm is over your dog’s back and you’re actually luring their motion from behind.

Keep the treat close to the dog’s nose, so move at the pace your dog sets. Even if your dog regularly spins in circles, like when they’re excited or chasing their tail, they won’t understand what you want right at first. Be patient.

If the dog’s head/neck only moves to about their shoulder, reward there and try for a bit further next time.

Paw-edness

This is a behavior that most dogs will do better going in one direction than the other. Like people, dogs have a dominant side.

Even if your dog is showing you they clearly prefer one side to the other, teach them turning in circles both ways. You want them to be equally balanced, not develop one-sided skills. Ideally you want to work all of their muscles for these fun fitness behaviors.

Standing Spin

Teaching “Spin” is probably the easiest of the three. Both you and your dog should be standing, with your dog facing either right or left and you standing perpendicular to your dog. Holding a treat in the hand farthest from the dog’s head, reach over their back to the side of their face away from you and get them to turn their face away from you, toward the treat. If your dog keeps moving around with your treat hand leading, turn them all the way around in a circle.

Most dogs don’t get it the first time and will seem confused. Your movement matters here. Try not to reach your arm too far out. Keep the treat close to your dog’s nose so they follow it around. This is almost literally leading them around by the nose.

Be patient. For most dogs the “Spin!” is pretty fast. They will prefer going one way over the other. Give the different directions (clockwise and counter-clockwise) separate names, like “Spin!” or “Turn!”

It gets confusing

Many people think the two words should be “Right!” And “Left!” Don’t be tempted. Who/s “Right!” do you mean? Yours or the dog’s? What if you’re facing each other? What if you’re next to each other? It just gets tortuous to figure out.

Floor work

If you’re teaching your dog “Roll Over,” it’s pretty much the same thing. The two of you are perpendicular to each other with you sitting and your dog lying down. Bring the hand furthest from the dog’s face over their shoulder, toward their nose. Get them to turn their heads to follow the treat hand.

Instead of going straight back, lure your dog’s motion up and toward you. Most dogs will naturally start rolling over.

Some dogs won’t ever roll over. Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, is flat-out scared of turning turtle. It was Teddy’s, her previous Frenchie, best trick. Fran’s Boston Terriers whirl around any time, any where, all three levels. Since the behavior is basically just for fun, you shouldn’t push your dog if they hate it.

Dance

Start by having your dog stand up on their hind legs and reward at the apex. When the dog has been doing it for a while and is fairly stable on their back legs, move the treat in a circle for them to follow. Again, try to have them turn both ways. (Ceilidh – pronounced “Kay-lee” – loved to dance!)

Most dogs love these behaviors and will get them fairly quickly. You can stop luring it when you think your dog is getting the idea. Continue to reward after the lure isn’t necessary. Dogs may love doing it, but their good work should always be rewarded.

As you fade the lure, you’ll find yourself using the hand motions to trigger the behavior. Take note of how you’re moving so you can use it as a consistent hand signal. In no time at all, your dog will be turning in circles at the wave of your hand!

All your dog needs is you

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We use a lot of “props” for our training games with our dogs. Mostly because it’s fun and we love stretching their ability and our own creativity. Like last week’s game, “Ring Around the Targets.” But “stuff” isn’t necessary. For training, all your dog needs is you. And treats.

There are tons of dog training games that are just you and your dog. Almost all the skills for Obedience and Rally are without any stuff. The only exceptions are at the higher levels and include jumps, cones, and dumbbells.

What it boils down to is this – there are no excuses for not playing training games with your dog. If you don’t have treats, use their food. If they eat soft food, get your hands dirty or use a spoon.

Make the time

The most-overused excuse is time. Nobody has time for much of anything these days.

That’s why we outline, in detail, how to make it easy to capture the time you need.

Training games should take just two minutes. You spend two minutes watching ads in your mobile games or streaming shows. Use the time to play with your dog – there’s even a timer.

Always be ready. Have a mixture of treats in a covered container in every room. Don’t have covered containers? Keep carry-out containers to use.

Don’t have a variety of training treats? Mix your dog’s dry food with some cereal “O’s” and popcorn. They’ll love it.

Form the habit

Good intentions fall by the wayside if they’re difficult, or inconvenient. If you make it convenient to play with your dog, you’re more likely to do it.

Make your “trail mix” of treats. Spread the containers around the house. And next time that PITA timer shows up in the corner of your screen, turn to your dog, hold out your hand, and say “Touch!”

Just start. Your dog will be delighted. And smarter. He’ll be better-behaved. And love you even more.

Training Game- Ring Around The Targets

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How long does it take to create a new dog training game? Almost none. On the spur of the moment last night we made up “Ring Around The Targets.”

Most dogs love Target Training. It’s easy, it’s fast, and it lets the dog get rewarded for something they love doing anyway – sticking their noses into something. We started there and embellished, a lot.

Target Training is a great skill to teach your dog, and one that lets you build some distance from your dog. Most dogs are unfamiliar with the idea of doing stuff away from their people. Dogs’ preferred position is right in front of you, staring adoringly at your face.

In our Rally class yesterday we worked on getting the dogs to go away from their people and sit near a plastic cone about eight feet away. To get the dogs to move away by themselves, we used paper plates as targets next to the cones.

Left holding the targets

Since we only play training games for a maximum of five minutes at a time, even in class, Hope wound up with a handful of paper plates that had doubled as targets. So she made up a new game on the spot.

All the Rally class dogs know targets. We usually use plastic lids from containers of products like sour cream, cottage cheese, even ice cream. You can use anything as a target, as long as you’re able to “load” it with a treat.

For our new Ring Around the Targets game, we used the paper plates. You can use as many as you like, but at least five. Arrange them in a circle, with you and your dog in the middle. The circle of targets can be as big as you like – the bigger the better.

Don’t pre-load the targets with treats. We want to reward the dogs, not lure them to the goal.

Release the dogs

After you’ve got everything set up, release your dog. If you’ve built value in the Target game, your dog should dash from one target to the next. Depending on your dog’s experience, you can either follow along and reward each target (for newbies) or wait and give your dog a jackpot when they’ve completed the entire circle (experienced dogs).

All the dogs had a blast and got it right the first time. None of them, or the people, had ever seen the game before. It never existed – Hope just made it up. That’s the kind of training flexibility you’ll have when you play training games with your dog.

When you play training games, your dog expects to have a good time. No matter what the game, whether they know it or not. The expectation of having fun is always there. The dogs are open to trying new things. They’re not wary or afraid of things they haven’t seen before. They trust their training games partner and know it’s going to be fun.

Always a spoonful of sugar

Many of the training games address behavioral issues most dogs have. They teach basic manners and improve dogs’ liveability. But the dogs don’t know that. They just know they’re having fun, understanding more, and getting to spend time with the people they love.

Not all training games have to be useful or have a particular goal in mind. We have dogs because life’s better and more fun with a dog. Some training games are just for fun, too, like the Ring Around the Targets game. The best part is you get to play them with your dog.

Maybe it’s time to switch anvil makers

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Wile E. Coyote has been trying to catch Road Runner for decades. He’s spent innumerable hours and buckets of money and nothing he tries works. And yet he persists in ordering his traps from Acme. When is it time to concede he’s put his faith and effort into the wrong thing? Agree that maybe it’s time to switch anvil makers. And how long will you stubbornly stick to something that’s not working for you and your dog?

Although its source is uncertain, we still adhere to the quote “If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always gotten.” The hardest part for many people seems to be recognizing when something’s unrecoverably broken and moving on. It doesn’t mean you give up on the behavior you’re trying to teach. It means you may have to approach it sideways instead of head-on.

Poisoning the well

Experience being the excellent teacher it is, of course we’ve “been there, done that.” Tango, Fran’s Brussels Griffon, has posed many challenges over the years. Since he’ll celebrate his 16th birthday this month, we can’t even count the vast number of lessons we’ve learned from him.

After Fran got him over being a snarling, hostile devil-dog (read Tango: Transforming my Hellhound, available on Amazon) , she was able to concentrate on more fun things like Rally, Agility, and Obedience. For unknown reasons, and Tango’s not telling, he stopped responding to his release word, which was “Go!” When he heard it, he visibly shrank and shut down.

For a short while, like most people, Fran tried to get him over the bugaboo. She loaded the word with treats, praised any slight movement, did all the right things to make “Go!” valuable and fun. Tango wasn’t having any of it.

Instead of persisting in hitting a brick wall, Fran regrouped, thought, “Maybe it’s time to switch release words,” and started from square one. She chose a new release word, “Action!” and taught it to Tango. Whatever negative association he had with “Go!” didn’t apply to the new word. They were in business once again.

Choose the easy way

Un-teaching something to a dog is difficult. If it’s attached to some negative emotion, it’s practically impossible. Dogs don’t just “get over it.” If some word, action, or place has become toxic to the dog, it’s often better to just let it go and approach from another angle.

A similar thing happened with one of our Rally students. Her two-year-old, rather skittish dog, became slinky and shut down if told to “Stand!” Nobody knows why. She was never abused, nobody hurt her after telling her to “Stand.” She’s a dog. She’ll never give us the answer.

We advised the dog’s owner to start over. Pick a different word and another hand motion to indicate “Stand!” And the dog perfected the “new” behavior in days. Does it look just like a “Stand!”? Yes, of course. Is it actually the exact same exercise? Yes, it is. But it’s different for the dog. And her opinion matters.

Train the dog in front of you

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Dogs are unique individuals. Even if every one of your dogs is the same breed, has the same lineage, and come from the same breeder, each is unique. That’s why you have to train the dog in front of you.

“But my last dog didn’t…”

“My other dog never…”

If you find yourself saying things like this, you’re not being fair to your current dog. Every dog you share your life with will bring new challenges and joys, problems and laughter. And each dog deserves to be recognized for who they are. Every dog will bring something new to your life and you’ll share a special relationship with each and every one.

Simon vs Booker

The youngest dog in our house, Simon is a six-year-old Boston Terrier. He’s the fifth Boston, the second from the same lineage. There are lots of parts that are “typical” Boston Terrier. There are also bits that are unlike any other. For one thing, he’s the smartest dog we’ve ever owned. He’s also the nosiest, and the most intense. He’s the only Boston we’ve had that doesn’t have a silly side. The dude is serious, through and through.

Training Simon is different than training his uncle, Booker, who is 12 years old. Booker has the attention span of a gnat, and rockets off on bouncing, silly, barking jags. Simon looks at him like he’s lost his mind. Simon loves practicing the same behaviors multiple times. Booker’s done after two repetitions, maximum.

Train the dog in front of you

If Fran tried to fit both Booker and Simon into the same training slot, chances are neither would be very good at anything. Honestly assessing your dog’s enthusiasm, motivation, and drive is key to successful training. Booker, the flibbertigibbet, got his Novice Obedience title (CD) back in the day when a three-minute, across-the-room “Down Stay” was the rule. He didn’t get there with rote repetition. He got there by Fran making it fun in little chunks her scatter-brained dog could absorb.

That’s training the dog in front of you. Unless you honestly assess and adapt to your dog’s unique personality, you’re in for a rough ride. Expecting your now-dog to be like your then-dog isn’t fair to either one.

Comparison is inevitable

It’s very common to compare. In some ways, it eases the pain of losing a beloved dog when you see some of their traits in another dog. It lets you reminisce and smile. Because that dog was a very good dog.

It’s okay to cherish the similarities even while you appreciate the differences. The love you had for your previous dog will never diminish. There’s no limit on love. The dog in front of you deserves the same helping of attention and love. There’s enough for every dog you’ll ever have.

One is silver and the other gold

There’s a saying in dog training that you don’t always get the dog you want, but you always get the dog you need. Every dog in your life will bring something new. A different way of looking (or sniffing) the world. We’ve had dogs who would run to smell flowers. Others paid no attention at all. One or two have watched TV. Most don’t. Some of our dogs made our yard unsafe for all wildlife. The current crew walks by the sparrows pecking in our grass.

If you’re having trouble figuring out your dog’s learning style, play a training game that relies on the dog’s initiative, like “Boxey.” Do they look to see how you react? Are they checking in with you at all?

Successful dog training isn’t necessarily having the best-behaved dog on the block. It’s building a team that understands, respects, and appreciates your partnership. Just as each dog is a distinct individual, your bond with each dog is unique. And you can be part of as many teams as you have the time and energy to enjoy. And always remember to train the dog in front of you.