fun dog training Archives - 2 Minute Trainer

When to stop rewarding the dog

Dog training students always want to know when they can stop rewarding dogs. The answer’s easy. When you don’t care if the dog keeps doing whatever it is.

If you don’t care if your dog sits automatically when you stop moving, stop rewarding it.

If you don’t mind if your dog jumps on guests, stop rewarding polite greetings.

If it doesn’t matter that your dog eliminates outside, stop rewarding the dog.

Stuck forever

On the other hand, if you like what your dog is doing and want them to keep doing it, the rewards have to keep going. You won’t always need treats available in all rooms at all times. But you do have to acknowledge your dog’s good behavior somehow.

The form that takes depends on your dog. If your dog likes jaw scratches, do that. If a hearty “Good Girl!” makes their butt wiggle, use that. But if your dog has a “show me the money” personality, you’d better fork over the goods.

Keep in mind that dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. You can believe as hard as you want that your dog should “know better” by now. But if every instance is a decision-making process, you want the dog’s choice to land on the side of the angels. There’s nothing wrong with stacking the deck to make sure that happens.

Dashing down the stairs

Our dogs all love playing training games. Our morning routine includes a trip down the stairs to the basement training space. Consequently, our dogs all love going downstairs. For a very long time, Simon would dash down the stairs whenever the door opened. Even if we were just reaching for a coat on the stairway coat hooks.

It took some time and effort to convince Simon that he wasn’t supposed to bolt down the stairs as soon as the door opened. We took the time and effort to set the situation up, teaching him to sit, wait, and move only when he heard his release word. In the beginning, the “Sit!” got a food reward. So did the “Wait.” For Simon, the release word means he gets to do what he wants – go downstairs. That’s the reward for good behavior. The food reward isn’t necessary.

He doesn’t always get to go downstairs. Sometimes we’re just reaching for that jacket. Our hand on the doorknob is his cue to “Sit!” and “Wait!” We can now open that door whenever we need to. Simon sees a hand on the doorknob and sits. He waits until we close the door again and give him a treat. We acknowledge his good decision with a reward. If we didn’t, there’d be no reason for him to keep doing it. Going downstairs is extremely rewarding for him. The alternative has to be as attractive.

Encouraging good decisions

A reward, whether it’s a yummy tidbit, tummy rubs, a game of tug, lets your dog know you’ve seen their good decision and like it. Over time, lots of good dog choices become just another part of the routine. Lately we’ve had a few dogs in classes who, for whatever reason, are frightened of going through doorways. For some, it’s particular doorways. For others, it’s all doorways. We don’t know why. We’ll never know why. Dogs never tell us their “why’s.”

All of these dogs are getting over their doorway phobia. In time, both the dogs and their people will be able to sail through any jamb without a second thought. Rewards won’t be required long term, but they are needed now. These people are asking their dogs to be brave and make a scary (to them) choice. The rewards given now build the equation: “When I go through the doorway, good things happen on the other side.” At some point it will become a non-issue. Then you can stop rewarding the dog.

Second nature

Many of the behaviors we teach our dogs become natural parts of life. You won’t always have to reward your dog for walking politely at your side, it will become a habit. In time, sitting when being introduced to guests will be the norm. Your dog’s default behavior will become going to their kitchen “Place!” when you’re cooking. Until those desirable things happen, the rewards have to keep coming.

Dog Training Game – Follow the Point

Does your dog go (or even look) where you point? Or do they check out your pointing hand, sniff it, lick it and sit to be petted? Don’t worry – it’s easy to train your dog to follow the point.

After spending lots of time dropping through the rabbit hole of the internet, there doesn’t seem to be any consensus on whether dogs’ ability to follow where you point is nature or nurture. It is universally accepted that dogs can be trained to follow a pointer. But how, exactly, do you do that?

Looking to you

From the moment you bring a dog home, they’re always learning from you. If you have that niggling feeling there’s always someone watching, you’re right. Unless they’re asleep, your dog is always aware of where you are and what you’re doing. If you’re really attuned to your dog, they can even tell what you’re thinking. Like Fran’s Simon who wakes up from a sound sleep and dashes to the door when Fran thinks about walking her dogs.

If you make a habit of pointing at stuff, your dog may already have a notion of how it works. Most of us have dropped some tidbit on the floor and pointed to it, urging our dogs to get it. Sometimes it works. But it’s not a reliable behavior, just an occasional lucky find.

For this game, we’re going to transform that luck into a bet-on-it, go there, get that.

Intro to Follow the Point

The first step is stupid easy. Get a treat, put it on the floor. Point at it and tell your dog to get it. If your dog has a reliable “Stay!”, use it. Otherwise, hold the dog’s collar with one hand while you place the treat and point with the other. Be sure you don’t release the dog until you’re pointing. This step is just introducing your dog to the relationship between the “Point” and getting good stuff.

After a couple of pointed-at treats, your dog will catch onto the concept pretty easily to follow the point. The next step is to build some distance. If there’s no one else there, and your dog won’t “Stay!” put them on leash and wrap it around a heavy piece of furniture so they can’t grab the treat as you’re placing it.

Point at the treat and release your dog. Keep your arm up and the point intact. We want the dog to learn to move in the direction you’re pointing. Don’t move closer if they don’t dash right over. Just keep pointing. (Patience!)

After a couple repetitions, your dog’s going to start putting things together. Look for them to start watching your arm and hand. When they start anticipating where the instructions are coming from, you know it’s sinking in.

Now put the treat in a bowl and do the same thing another few times. We’re introducing the idea that even if the dog can’t see the treat, it will always be where you point.

What’s next?

It’s one thing for your dog to go where you point. It’s another to choose that direction over another. Get two identical bowls/dishes/targets to put the treat in. Put both bowls out at the distance your dog was successful. Put a treat in one. Go back to your dog and point at the bowl with the treat.

If your dog goes to the wrong bowl anyway, just start over. Try to figure out where the disconnect happened and go back to that step. If you have a dog who’s incredibly nosey, like Fran’s Simon, they’ll probably check out the second bowl. As long as the dog went where you were pointing first, that’s fine. It’s actually a good thing. They’ll know that there are rewards for going where you point, and nothing anywhere else.

This step teaches the dog that there will always be something good where you point. Even when there’s not a treat where you’re pointing, there will be a reward for going there. Dogs reliably do whatever’s most rewarding for them. Make following your point rewarding every time.

Nothing in the bowl

The next step requires the “leap.” Set out the two identical bowls. Don’t put anything in either one. Leave a good distance between the bowls so your dog can’t possibly confuse which you point at. Set up with your dog at your side and point at one of the bowls. If your dog goes to the right bowl, get over there and give your dog a jackpot! Do it again.

When your dog is getting it right most of the time, you can up the challenge by increasing the number of bowls, moving them closer together, or any variation you can think of. As long as your dog always gets rewarded for getting it right, they’ll keep going where you point.

Use your imagination

Following your “Point!” can be the start of all kinds of “go there, get that” behaviors. In competition obedience, it’s known as the Directed Retrieve. The exercise is part of the highest level of Obedience (Utility), and involves three gloves, evenly spaced along one side of a 40 foot long ring. At the opposite side of the ring, the handler points their dog at whichever glove the judge designates. The dog runs out to the glove, picks it up, brings it back to the handler, sits, drops the glove on command.

There are lots of steps for the dog to learn. And all of them are fun for both of you. Recently we saw a version where the dog ran to a cooler, opened it, picked out a bottle of water, and brought it to their person. Your dog can do it, too!

Why dogs pull on leash, and what to do about it

Many dog owners think their dogs pull on leash because they’re in a hurry. They want to get “over there” to sniff whatever nasty things are on the ground. Or maybe the dogs like going faster. Maybe their dogs think there’s something more interesting around the corner.

The truth is much more basic. Dogs like having a tight leash. The reason is simple. If the leash is tight, they don’t have to pay attention to you. When dogs pull on leash, they know exactly where you are and what you’re doing. They can focus on everything around them, and not worry about where you are. In lots of ways, it’s easier for your dog to pull, even if it chokes them, than divide their attention.

Don’t try breaking it

As everyone knows, habits are hard to change. The longer the habit’s been entrenched, the harder it is to break. That’s one of the reasons we don’t try to break the pulling habit. Instead, we establish a new walking game and use it until it becomes a habit you’ll want to keep.

Since dogs always choose the action that’s most rewarding, being by your side has to be the most valuable option. Arm yourself with your dog’s highest-value treats for the Pattern Walking Game. Whether that’s hot dogs, cheese, or whatever bizarre thing your dog loves above all else, have it ready.

Pattern Walking Game

The first step is to choose a three-word phrase you can remember easily. Most people choose “one, two, three.” But it can be anything your dog doesn’t hear all day every day. One of our trainees chose “Coffee, Tea, Wine.” You’ll be saying it a lot, so choose a phrase that comes to you easily. We’ll use “one, two, three,” here. You use your chosen phrase for the steps.

Get five treats and your dog. On leash is good, since that’s how your dog will associate the phrase with walking. Now say the third word in your phrase and give your dog a treat – 5 times.

“Three.” Give your dog a treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.

Your dog doesn’t have to do anything, be anywhere in particular to get the treat. It helps if you say it in an excited voice.

Next steps

Get five more treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. Emphasize the third word. Give your dog a treat when you say the third word:

“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.

We bet you can guess what the next step is in teaching your dog the Pattern Walking Game. Get another five treats and:

“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.

Where you want them

The first few times you play the game, that’s all you do. You have to establish the link between the third word and reward. Once your dog whips their head around at the sound of your third word, you can move on to the next step – where the treat is located.

This step teaches your dog to be in the “reward zone.” Hold the treat by your thigh, on the side where you want your dog to walk. Start all over with three sets of five treats, always holding the treat on “THREE!” where you want your dog’s head to be. That’s by your side. Your dog should start looking for the treat on “Two” and be looking for your reward hand.

Put it in motion

Again, depending on your dog, only move on when your dog anticipates where the reward will be by going to the reward zone as you say your 3-word phrase.

Once the dog is reliably at your side on “THREE!”, take a step as you say each word of the phrase. If your dog isn’t at your side when you say “THREE!”, just wait. Don’t move the treat, or wave it around. Your dog may need a moment to think, so let them. When they come to your side, give them the treat and do it again. And again.

Stretch it out

When your dog understands, take two steps for every word in the phrase. Take your pattern walking to different rooms, outside, in the yard, etc. Put it in motion and take it for a test run.

You can make Pattern Walking a part of longer walks. If you go for 30 minutes walks, don’t use the Pattern Walking Game more than five minutes at a time. If you use it in the middle of a longer walk, set yourself up for success. Get your dog’s attention. Have them sit. Do a quick “One, Two, THREE!” Treat!. And then start the game’s motion.

Using Pattern Walking on a regular basis during walks will establish it as a new habit that’s fun for both of you. It takes some time. That’s okay. It takes time to establish a new routine.

Word of caution

Once your dog is in love with the third word in your phrase it’s tempting to abuse it. It’s not a substitute for a good “Come!” It’s not a way to get your dog’s attention. We’ve had students who start repeating “Three! Three! Three!” when their dog loses attention. Don’t. Use a game like “Touch!” Or “Puppy Push-ups” to center your dog.

Keep your 3-word Pattern Walking phrase sacred for walking. Every time your dog hears the third word, they should get a treat by your side. Every time. No exceptions. If you stick to it, your dog will know exactly what’s expected of them and do it reliably.

Trick training builds confidence

One of our students resisted teaching her dog “tricks.” She thought it was silly, or beneath her dignity as a serious Obedience person. She still drags her heels when we come up with new behaviors. But we’ve convinced her that trick training builds confidence.

It’s kind of a “Freaky Friday” situation. One of our Rally Obedience class students was one of our first dog training instructors. She’s been, over lots of years, one of the top Obedience competitors in our region.

Back in the day, she was an old-school trainer and, like everybody at the time, we used “corrections” to teach our dogs. That was the accepted word for giving dogs a collar pop to let them know they’d done something wrong.

Fortunately, when you know better you do better, and we’ve all changed over to positive reinforcement training. We converted because we changed the way we think. Our student, let’s call her Celeste, has a dog that required the change.

Suddenly scared of the world

When her dog, a beautiful, well-bred sporting dog, was about 15 months old, something changed. A happy, confident puppy, she was suddenly scared of the world. Nobody but Celeste could touch her, she was hiding behind her mom’s legs.

Nothing bad happened to her. The veterinarians couldn’t find anything wrong. But this dog that was almost ready for Obedience competition now couldn’t even stop drooling in public.

Celeste, of course, was both puzzled and disappointed. The hopes and dreams she had for her dog flew out the window. Worse than starting from scratch, she now had to undo whatever demons now controlled her dog.

Getting past scared

The worst, of course, for the dog was the Novice exercise “Stand For Exam.” The dog has to stand stock still while the judge touches the dog’s head, shoulders, and hips. That’s all there is to it, but it was now impossible. She was so terrified that her “Stand” disappeared. Because she associated it with the dreaded touching.

Celeste started Rally class with this dog because, quite frankly, she doesn’t really care about Rally. In her mind, it’s a precursor for “real” Obedience. We knew this, and warmly welcomed her to class. Rally is more relaxed than Obedience, and a good place to practice all of the moves Obedience requires.

What Celeste wasn’t counting on was our insistence that she and her dog learn lots of little behaviors and “tricks.” She told us quite firmly that “I just don’t teach my dogs tricks.”

Nevertheless, she got on board. Her dog, already beautifully trained to do almost anything Celeste asked, started having fun putting some of those things together. Puppy Push-ups are a thing of beauty with this team. She resisted teaching “Roll Over,” but her dog loves it. The dog also loves “Sit Pretty,” walking backwards, sideways, and tons of others.

Opening doors

Teaching this dog “tricks” is restoring her confidence. She knows how to do things and gets rewarded for doing them. It’s given her a foundation of security. She knows what’s expected of her, knows she can do it, and even enjoys it.

Does the dog still get the heebie-jeebies? On occasion. Celeste is still prepared when it happens. But she’s also become convinced of the value of the little things, the “tricks” her dog does.

Teach your dog some tricks

Even if you don’t care about any kind of dog sports competition or training, teaching your dog little “tricks” builds their confidence. You may not care if your dog is a social media star, or has a whole string of performance titles. But you do care that your dog is happy and knows how to behave.

Dogs aren’t little minions we need to do our bidding. They are intelligent, social beings who love partnering with you, and doing stuff together.

Dog Training Game: Teach Your Pup to Pull

There are some dogs who are naturals at opening doors, drawers, or figuring out any obstacle that stands between them and their goal. If you have a dog that opens doors, drawers, hampers, garbage cans, you probably don’t need this game. The Teach Your Pup to Pull game is for the rest of us, whose dogs sit there and look at you with adorable puppy-dog eyes. And plead with you to open the goodie cabinet.

How it started

Hope had the notion that she’d like to create a little skit with Torque, using his various behaviors to tell a story. The idea came from watching the amazing winners of the AKC’s Virtual Trick Dog Championship. There’s nothing in those videos that’s beyond any of our dogs, it’s just a matter of putting the pieces together.

One of the behaviors needed for the scenario Hope imagined was for Torque to open a drawer to find a clue to the mystery. It seems a simple enough trick – after all, most dogs, including Torque, love to play tug.

It turned out not to be so simple after all. An essential component of “Tug!” Is someone on the other end providing resistance. Pulling a drawer open isn’t the same, from the dog’s point of view. We’d have to teach our pup to pull

How it’s going

The first step was choosing something to attach to the drawer that Torque could pull on. When you see videos of dogs opening stuff, generally speaking there’s a towel, rope, or piece of cloth for them to grab.

That was a no-go for Torque. He would pick up a rope, but not have any idea what to do with it once he was holding it. Part of the issue was the drawer set we were using (pictured). There really isn’t a handle that a dog can grab. The knob is too small to have a large rope around it.

To move on to the meatier parts of the behavior, Hope tied a familiar “put it away” object to the rope, a plastic spatula. Torque knew it from the other game.

The next obstacle was getting him to take the tied-on spatula away from the drawers. He was absolutely convinced that putting it on top of the drawer set was the answer we were looking for. It wasn’t, but we had to find a way to let him know that.

Using familiar game parts

To give him a goal away from the drawers, we used the bin we always use for “Put Your Stuff Away” games. We placed it well away from the drawers, placed the spatula well away from the drawers, and made sure we were facing the bin, rather than the drawers. Dogs pay attention to where you’re headed, so your direction matters.

Torque recognized the setup right away. He grabbed that spatula and headed for the bin. As soon as the drawer was clear of its housing, Hope clicked and rewarded, well short of the bin. That was letting Torque know he’d already done what she wanted.

As Torque becomes more sure of the behavior that’s wanted, we’ll be able to place the bin even farther away and eventually stop using it. The latest modification was to put treats in the drawer as soon as it was opened up. This lets Torque know he’d achieved the objective.

How it’s going

We’re making progress, even though we only play “Pull!” a couple times a month. Torque is starting to understand the word “Pull!”, although he still needs the bin for a target.

This game, like all training games beyond the essentials (come, stay, sit, etc.), is just for fun and a chance to build on the dog’s repertoire. It’s always fun to have something new to play with – whether it’s a new toy or a new training game. Keeping many different skills in the rotation ensures that neither you nor your dog will get tired of playing training games together.

Training Game: Target Training

Target training is one of those dog skills that gets more useful the longer you know it. When your dog will reliably go to a target and touch it, the possibilities are endless. You can bring your dog in close, or send them far away. If you play dog sports, like agility, it can even help your dog understand what bits of the obstacles they must touch.

If your dog already knows “Touch!” you’re a good chunk of the way to target training. Instead of your hand, the target is an object, like the lid of a plastic container, that can be easily moved. That way you can even teach your dog to go away from you. Achieving training at a distance is something many trainers aspire to. Target training your dog will help you get there.

Possibly the most useful part of target training is giving your dog something to do in a stressful situation. Let’s imagine you have to walk through a crowded area with your dog. If your dog will, reliably, stay focused on touching the target, you can sail through without problems. It sure beats having to worry about all the little things that might distract or upset your dog and cause them to react poorly.

Calming their nerves

All of the little focus games we play are meant to make life easier. Teaching your dog how to deal with stress, especially if you have an anxious dog, is important. Giving your dog something familiar, repetitive, and enjoyable to do helps with stress. Target training can also include an element of “find it,” and expands on the possibilities of “Touch!” where you’re always in reach.

The first thing to do is decide on a target object. It can be anything you choose, so think about where and when you might use it. We generally use plastic lids from assorted food products – cottage cheese, butter, sour cream. Ice cream lids work well, too. And provide a reason to buy ice cream.

While you’re choosing, think about the color of the item. It should be highly visible on whatever surface you tend to practice on. We have blue matting on the floor, so the white lids are a bright contrast.

First step

If you’ve been following 2-Minute-Trainer for any time, you’ll recognize the first part of the process. All you have to do is put the target on the floor, stare at it, and wait for your dog to do something. If your dog looks at it, or sniffs it, or licks it, put a treat on the target. Don’t feed the dog from your hand. Put it on the target. We want the dog to understand that good things happen on the target when they interact with it. If your aim is a nose touch, don’t reward the dog for pawing at the target. Likewise, if they pick it up in their mouth, no reward. Be specific about what you want. Reward only when you get it.

If you’re not in a position to reward (you have to go get more treats), be sure to pick up the target so the dog doesn’t have access. If they perform the behavior you want and don’t get rewarded (you weren’t there), the learning flow will be disrupted. The value of touching the target will diminish for every touch that doesn’t get rewarded.

On your merry way

Most dogs pick up on target training almost immediately. When you’re pretty sure that your dog understands the idea, move the target around. Will they follow it? If you hold it up, will they reach to touch it? What about if someone else places it across the room? Will they search for it and play hide and seek?

Target training can prove incredibly powerful. Hope’s French Bulldog girl Dax loved her targets. Their first-ever agility competition was held at an indoor soccer arena. Needless to say, there are all kinds of white circles painted in the turf in the venue. Dax had to go and touch each of them, sure there would be treat. It wasted a little time, but they did qualify and Dax was more relaxed, knowing she had a job to do.

If you are involved in any dog sports, you can use the target to teach your dog correct performance of several different exercises and obstacles. For agility, a target at the end of the dog walk teaches the dog to touch the entire down side. Likewise with the A-Frame. In Obedience, placed at the landing side of the Broad Jump, it teaches the dog to jump straight out before coming to “Front!”

Use it wherever

If you’re using the target as a training tool, teaching your dog where you want him to go, be sure it’s pre-baited with a treat or that someone will be nearby to reward immediately. If dogs don’t get rewarded for doing things right, there’s no reason for them to continue doing it. Once the dog learns the behavior, you can randomize and eventually eliminate the target, if you choose. If/when you do, be sure to maintain the rate of reward. The target was a tool to “explain” the behavior to the dog and your good dog deserves to be rewarded for it.

10 Dog Training Tips

Dogs are smart. They’re learning sponges, eager to absorb whatever you want to teach them. Use these 10 dog training tips and the sky’s the limit for you and your dog!

Everyone, dogs included, learns better and retains more when they’re having fun. Training isn’t a chore, it’s a chance to have fun with your dog.

Dog training isn’t tedious or prolonged. Short, fast, fun training games work. Concentrate on training for a few minutes at a time, ideally no more than five.

Dogs need time to process and absorb what they learn. Just because your dog didn’t get it today, doesn’t mean they won’t be brilliant later or tomorrow.

Vary your posture, place, and the dog’s position. If you do the same thing the same way all the time, that’s the only way the dog will know it. The classic example is “Sit!” Most people face their dogs, hold a treat up, and say “Sit!” If the dog is beside them, they don’t get it.

You don’t get to decide what your dog’s favorite things are. You may not like that your dog hates the expensive treats you got, but you have to accept it. If your dog prefers celery to salmon, use the celery. If they prefer toys to food, use toys as their reward.

Be patient. Whatever behavior you’re trying to modify is probably a habit. Changing a habit is hard and takes lots of determination. See last week’s 2-Minute Tip for more about patience!

Dogs don’t understand “sometimes” or “close enough.” If the dog sits when you ask for a “Down!” and you accept it, your dog will never understand either one. Set clear criteria and stick to them. That’s not being mean, it’s helping the dog understand.

Be honest with your dog. If you’re planning to give them a bath, don’t call them to get a cookie. If you’re leaving the house, don’t sneak out. Dog’s trust is easily broken.

Relax and enjoy. Training your dog is an ongoing and life-long process. You’re not trying to achieve anything except having the biggest, best life with your best friend.

Your dog wants to learn. Giving them the chance to live up to their potential is a gift to them. Dogs like knowing stuff. It helps them understand and cope with our human world.

Whether you’re aiming for relaxing walks around the neighborhood or the highest level of dog sports competition, these 10 dog training tips will come in handy. Nobody has to have a dog. You decided to get a dog for fun and company. They’re great at that. They’re also happier when you teach them the skills they need to be good dogs.

2 dog training traits you must have

2 Dog training traits – Patience and a Sense of Humor

There is a whole list of things we tell our students to bring to the first dog training class session. The two most important? Patience and a sense of humor. These are the two dog training traits you must have for success.

Both are crucial, whether your aim is to keep your dog from jumping on guests to competing at the highest level of dog sports. No matter what you’re trying to teach, your dog is learning the same way.

Getting the message

Let’s say your dog always pulls on leash, so you’ve started the 3-Step Pattern Walking game. Your dog did great with it in class – their head was already whipping around when you said your third word.

So the next time you play the game, you skip the first step and try to put it in motion. You just say your three-word phrase and your dog ignores you entirely. So you start repeating your third word, louder and louder. Until your dog finally turns around and looks at you. As if they’re asking “Are you talking to me?”

You have to possess your soul in patience. If you took a foreign language in school, you weren’t conversational the first week. You had to learn the vocabulary and proper word order to communicate. Look at dog training the same way. Last week we talked about patience being required when training “Off!” You actually need patience whenever you train your dog!

Laugh it up, fuzzball

Dogs trained with positive reinforcement are quick to try new stuff. When they don’t understand something, they try to fit it in a file they already know. A recent example here was Hope teaching Torque to pull open a drawer. She attached a string to the drawer pull, then a familiar object (a plastic spatula) at the other end to “Pull.”

Torque immediately grabbed the spatula and trotted over to the drawer to put it inside. It wasn’t what Hope wanted, but it was clever and adorable. And he was so very happy with himself. You could almost hear him laughing “I got this!”

He didn’t. But that’s okay. It was cute, and funny. His actions told Hope what game Torque thought they were playing and let her know some adjustments were necessary.

Always cute

Whenever you play training games with your dog, make sure your patience and sense of humor are along for the ride. Meet your dog where they are. Give them as long as it takes to understand what you’re teaching. And all the while you’re growing the 2 dog training traits you must have.

Some dogs are whizzes at some games. Those same dogs may take a while to catch on to other games. All dogs can learn whatever training games you want to teach. Enjoy the journey and the fun.

Foundation Dog Games #4: 3 – Step Pattern Walking

3-Step Pattern Walking is the dog training game that fixes people’s number one complaint about their dogs – pulling on leash.

The longer your dog has been practicing pulling, the more ingrained the habit. And, honestly, most dogs like pulling – even if it makes them choke. The logic of it is simple. With a tight leash, the dog doesn’t have to pay attention to you. They know exactly where you are. Which frees up your dog to check out everything in the environment.

Changing the rules

Since habit is powerful, you’re not going to try to change it. Instead, 3-Step Pattern Walking gives you and your dog a new way of walking. Rather than breaking a habit, it’s a new way of going for walks.

We’re not going to lie. How long it takes to work, or whether it works at all, is entirely on you.You can’t skip ahead or move forward before your dog’s ready. But if changing the behavior matters to you, and you work the process, it works like a charm.

First step

Choose a three-word phrase you can easily remember. Most people use 1-2-3, or A-B-C. The most creative one has been “Coffee, Tea, Wine.”

Don’t make it specific to this dog, or use your dog’s name. Once you see how well this works, you’ll use it for every dog you have in your lifetime. Keep it simple and easy to say.

Once you’ve decided on your three word phrase, Get a bunch of high-value treats and your dog. Take five treats. Say only the third word in your sequence and give your dog a treat. Don’t ask your dog to do anything. They don’t have to sit, or look at you, or do anything. They’re getting a treat when they hear the word.

What you’re doing is making that third word the most valuable word in the world to your dog. EVERY SINGLE TIME they hear that word, they get a treat. No exceptions. And, at this point, no demands on their behavior.

Next Steps

Take another five treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. On the third word, give the dog a treat.

Most people can predict what’s coming next. Say the entire three-word phrase and give your dog a treat on the third word. It does help if you make that third word more exciting. Your dog has now gotten 15 treats when they hear your third word. That word is starting to sound pretty amazing to your dog.

That’s it for the first session. You’re just introducing the phrase and its value to your dog.

Do it again

The next session, do exactly the same thing. Your third word is starting to become a jackpot for your dog. If your dog’s head isn’t whipping around to look at you when you say that third word, stay here. Get better treats. We want your dog to perk up and be excited to hear that third word.

If your dog starts to drool at the second word, it’s time to move ahead. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. So it’s time to teach them where they’ll get that third-word reward. Hold the treat at the side of your leg. You’ll do the same thing, five treats each for word three, words two-three, and one-two-three. But the difference is the dog must come to the side of your leg to get the treat.

Time to move

When your dog understands when (word three) and where (by your leg) they get rewarded, it’s time to put the pattern in motion. At first, one step for each word in the phrase. Keep your hands at your waist, just bringing the treat hand (the one closest to the dog) down on the third word. Don’t keep the treat in front of your dog’s nose. We’re rewarding, not luring.

When your dog reliably comes to the reward zone, or stays by your side as you walk and repeat the phrase, you can move on. Speed it up, take it out on walks.

Don’t expect your dog to pay attention to the game for more than a few minutes at a time. If you’re walking in your neighborhood, with lots of distractions, use it only for two or three repetitions. Before you start, get your dog’s attention with “Touch!” Don’t just start yelling your dog’s 3-word phrase when they’re yanking you down the street. Stop, get some focus, then start.

Practice makes a new habit

We’re overlying a new habit on your dog’s previous behavior with this foundation game of 3-Step Pattern Walking. It takes time to form a new habit, so be patient and consistent. The result is worth it. Making every outing with your dog a nice walk in the park.

Foundation Dog Games #3: Touch!

“Touch!” is the dog training game we use most often. It’s a fast, fun game. No special equipment, nothing but your hands, some treats, and your dog. The more you play it, the more useful “Touch!” becomes. Make it your dog’s favorite game – you’ll be happy you did.

We’ve seen “Touch!” played a few different ways, with varying results. The version we use really emphasizes the mechanics of the game. It makes a difference when you want to sustain the game longer than a single touch.

It’s one thing to grab your dog’s attention momentarily when there’s a bicycle flying down the walking path next to you. It’s another when you need to keep your dog’s mind occupied while sitting in the veterinarian’s waiting room with a cat in a carrier across the aisle. Our version of “Touch!” is useful in either case.

Timing is everything

Basically, “Touch!” is just holding out your hand and your dog touches it with their nose. Sounds easy, and it is. The tricky part, if there is one, is keeping the dog doing it. It’s the last place you want your dog displaying “one and done” syndrome.

Remember that dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. That translates to being very conscious of what you’re doing and how you’re doing it. You don’t have to worry that you’ll break your dog, or ruin the game irretrievably. Getting it “wrong” just means you might confuse your dog and it may take an extra 2-Minute session or two for them to get it. Relax and have fun.

Focus on procedure

To play “Touch!”, hold your hand, palm out, in front of your leg at the level of your dog’s nose. It doesn’t matter which hand, or which leg. You’ll be manipulating the treats with the other hand, so it’s probably smart to offer the palm of your non-dominant hand to your dog.

Hold your palm-out hand right there. Don’t ever move it in this game. Pretend it’s surgically attached to your leg and does not move. Again – the open palm facing your dog does not move during the game. Ever.

In case the emphasis and repetition don’t clue you in, this is the part of the game that almost everyone screws up when they’re learning how to play. That open palm is waggling all over the place, bopping into the dog’s face, curling around a treat, shifting to keep it in the dog’s sight. Again – the open hand that your dog needs to touch Does Not Move.

When your dog interacts with the palm in any way (looks at it, sniffs it, licks it, touches it with their nose), use the other hand to bring a treat to the palm and give it to your dog. You can say “Good Touch!” if the dog did it. Otherwise, just stay quiet. Do Not Move The Open Hand. Just leave it there. Wait for your dog. Be patient.

Note: if your dog paws at your hand, don’t reward it. We’re being specific that the dog’s nose has to “Touch!” If this game looks a little like “Gimme Your Paw” to your dog, that’s understandable. When you play “Gimme Your Paw,” use a cupped hand, rather than a flat, open palm so your dog will understand the difference. You can start, like Hope did with Simon, seated cross-legged on the floor and your arm resting on your knee

Sustaining the “Touch!” behavior

As long as your open hand remains in place, your dog should keep touching it. Reward every single touch. Because the rate of reward is high for this game, dogs tend to learn it quickly and love playing it. Don’t be stingy with the treats. We want this game to have high interest and value for your dog so you can rely on their response when you need it.

There really isn’t any next step. You put your palm out, your dog touches it, deliver a reward with the other hand, using the open palm as a target for the treat. Give the dog the treat – don’t drop it in your open palm (which would require moving that hand, which you shouldn’t do). You deliver it to the dog near the open palm. It can look and feel a little awkward, but it’s the way to explain the game to the dog. Remember dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. This is the placement part. It matters.

Play often, wherever

Because this is a go-to game in all kinds of stressful situations, be sure to play it often. Play it in every room, outside, in the car, at the pet store – wherever you and your dog go together. To keep your dog’s interest and love of the game at the highest level, don’t even try to slack off on the rewards. If every single “Touch!” gets rewarded, your dog will, reliably, “Touch!” when you ask them to.

If you keep the “Touch!” game valuable to your dog, they’ll respond when you need them to. Like when you let them out in the yard late at night for last walks and see the skunk ambling across. If your dog dashes over to “Touch!” you may not have to make a midnight run to the store for tomato juice.