fun dog training Archives - 2 Minute Trainer

Movement Puzzle #1 – Vito’s Game

What’s your absolute favorite thing about doing puzzles? It’s figuring them out for yourself. It’s not as much fun if somebody helps you, or gives you a hint.

Your dog is going to love learning movement puzzles. They’ll look forward to playing every time. Your dog will love seeing what new twists you add to their puzzles.

But it’s going to be hard on you. Probably more difficult than any other training game you’ve played with your dog. Because you’re not allowed to help.

Simple setup

There are basically two main variations of the Movement Puzzle. This week we’ll introduce the more static version. You get to sit for this one.

This thinking game / movement puzzle is called “Vito’s Game.” We were introduced to it in a video by the great dog trainer Susan Garrett of “Say Yes!” Dog training.

You need two bowls for treats, lots of treats, and an obstacle for your dog to go around. It can be anything. We generally use a five-gallon bucket or a wastebasket.

Sit on the floor with your legs crossed. Have one empty bowl at each side, near your hips. Hold the treats between your legs.

Start playing side to side

Get your dog’s attention and gently toss a treat off to your right. Then toss one to your left. This will implant the idea of going side to side in your dog’s mind. Do it a couple more times, alternating sides, and make your toss a little closer each time. For the last introductory part, drop a treat in one of the bowls at your side. Then, after your dog’s gotten that treat, drop one in the bowl on the other side.

Now’s the time to start using the bucket. Put it right up against your shins so your dog has to go around it to get to your other side. Now wait. (It’s hard, but you’ve got this.)

If your dog goes right to one of the bowls, drop a treat in it. Wait for them to go around the bucket to the other side. You can look at the empty bowl, but you can’t say anything, or tap the bowl, or give any other cue. It’s up to your dog to go around and check the other bowl. As soon as they do, drop a treat in.

When your dog is fairly reliably going side-to-side to get the treats from the bowls by your sides, start gradually moving the bucket away from you. Your dog still has to circle around the bucket, side to side, to get the treats.

Booker playing Movement Puzzle Vito's Game

Booker got it right - a treat goes in the bowl.

If your dog takes a shortcut and tries to get to the other side by taking a path between you and the bucket, don’t say anything. Just move the bucket closer and start again.

Think about it

Vito’s Game is a puzzle your dog has to solve. It’s a thinking game, something most people don’t normally expect, or require from their dogs. But good training encourages dogs to make good decisions. The dog has to figure out what they have to do to get the treats.

You may have to start from scratch the first few times you play Vito’s game. That’s okay. Your dog will get it. As long as you do your part.

Your job is to deliver treats to the bowls. That’s it. For the game to be effective, you can’t cheat. No hints, no cues, no talking, no tapping treats on the bowls, no telling your dog what to do. Let your dog find the joy in solving the puzzle.

Training Game: Hold it!

Teaching your dog to “Hold it!” is more useful than you’d think.

It’s adorable. We know someone whose dog holds a white board, so she can write any message or greeting and have a ready-made perfect social media post.

It’s helpful and adorable. Someone else we know taught her competition obedience dog to hold and carry his gear bag. The best part was the dog wasn’t a Golden Retriever or a Border Collie. He was a toy dog – a little Brussels Griffon.

It’s game-changing, helpful, and adorable. Teaching your dog to hold something in high-traffic areas can keep them busy and out of trouble. Even if you have an exuberant, excitable dog.

Why it’s magical

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque makes lots of funny sounds. Most Frenchies do. Other dogs have, on occasion, reacted poorly to him. It got to the point where he was always on the lookout for other dogs, ready to bark and behave rather rudely.

Torque also loves toys. Rubber balls with holes in them are his favorite. So Hope taught him to “hold” his toy. Now he confidently walks around anywhere, from the local neighborhood to a dog sport competition, showing everyone his little pink ball. Everyone thinks it’s adorable, not camouflage for potential misbehavior.

If your dog is somewhat leash-reactive, or reacts to other dogs, people, bicycles, strollers, etc. on walks, you can solve your problem by teaching your dog to “Hold!” a favorite toy. Instead of leaving the impression that your dog’s a jerk, you’ll inspire positive reactions and smiles. Make sure the toy’s a cute one, and as charming as possible. Like Torque and his little pink ball.

Teaching “Hold it!”

Most dogs want to hang onto their favorite stuff. If that’s the case for your dog, your training challenge will be sustaining the “Hold!” then getting your dog to “Drop it!” on command. Of course, ultimately your dog will have to “Drop it” when you tell them to. That’s another game.

If your dog naturally holds things, the first step is to make sure the dog will “Hold!” while wearing a collar and leash. If they’re used to playing naked, this may be more of an adjustment than you’d think. Just practice while the dog is “dressed,” putting light tugging pressure on the toy. If your dog drops the toy, just look at it and say something like “What happened? You dropped it!” Let the dog think picking it up is their idea. It is your dog’s job to keep track of their own toy.

Once the dog is securely holding the toy, pick up the leash and add motion. Again, if the dog drops the toy, let them pick it up. Just look at the toy and encourage your dog to get it. If you start picking up the toy when the dog drops it, they’ll rely on you to keep doing it. If they know mom (or dad) will get it, they’ll feel free to drop the toy to yell at that dog across the street. It’s your dog’s job to hold the toy and retrieve it if it’s dropped.

Gradually add more motion as your dog becomes good at “Hold!” Then practice everywhere. Remember that it’s your dog’s job to take care of their toy, but be sure you know where it is and take charge if necessary.

Not a possessive type

If your dog readily drops whatever they pick up, your challenge is more complex. You have to build value in the “Hold!”

Start with a favorite toy. If your dog doesn’t have one, you choose one that’s small enough for your dog to hold comfortably, and that has some part you can grab. If your dog will not pick up a toy, get down on the floor and slowly swish the toy back and forth in front of your dog, lightly brushing their forelegs with it. Most dogs find this both intriguing and annoying, and they’ll eventually succumb to the temptation to grab it.

Since your goal is the “Hold!,” don’t start a vigorous game of “Tug!” when your dog grabs the toy. Instead, keep up a steady pressure. This will trigger the dog’s natural tendency to pull. Since you’re keeping the game rather gentle, the dog shouldn’t go into head-shaking, kill-the-toy tugging. Get your dog used to moving around while playing gentle tug with you.

If your dog drops the toy and leaves you holding it, you drop it, too. Then stare at it and encourage your dog to “get it!” If they don’t, or seem confused, you can toss the toy a short way away and “race” your dog to the toy. Let them win! Then you can start the tugging pressure again.

Be patient

Like all behaviors, every dog picks up on “Hold!” at their own pace. Be patient and persistent. If you have a dog whose leash manners could use improvement, giving them something to “Hold!” is the fastest way to achieve better leash behavior.

Dog Training Game – Turning in Circles

What you call your dog’s “turning in circles” games depends on the level where it’s happening.

If your dog is lying on the floor, it’s “Roll Over!”

When your dog is standing with all four feet on the ground, it’s “Spin!”

If your dog’s up on their hind feet, it’s “Dance!” (mostly because pirouette is too hard to say and spell).

By the way, all three are great Kitchen Games – behaviors that don’t need a lot of room, not much time, and just a handful of treats.

Three games in one

All three variations start with the same action – turning your dog’s head one way or the other. With a treat held near the dog’s nose, just move it slowly to the side and back. Dogs get the idea better if your arm is over your dog’s back and you’re actually luring their motion from behind.

Keep the treat close to the dog’s nose, so move at the pace your dog sets. Even if your dog regularly spins in circles, like when they’re excited or chasing their tail, they won’t understand what you want right at first. Be patient.

If the dog’s head/neck only moves to about their shoulder, reward there and try for a bit further next time.

Paw-edness

This is a behavior that most dogs will do better going in one direction than the other. Like people, dogs have a dominant side.

Even if your dog is showing you they clearly prefer one side to the other, teach them turning in circles both ways. You want them to be equally balanced, not develop one-sided skills. Ideally you want to work all of their muscles for these fun fitness behaviors.

Standing Spin

Teaching “Spin” is probably the easiest of the three. Both you and your dog should be standing, with your dog facing either right or left and you standing perpendicular to your dog. Holding a treat in the hand farthest from the dog’s head, reach over their back to the side of their face away from you and get them to turn their face away from you, toward the treat. If your dog keeps moving around with your treat hand leading, turn them all the way around in a circle.

Most dogs don’t get it the first time and will seem confused. Your movement matters here. Try not to reach your arm too far out. Keep the treat close to your dog’s nose so they follow it around. This is almost literally leading them around by the nose.

Be patient. For most dogs the “Spin!” is pretty fast. They will prefer going one way over the other. Give the different directions (clockwise and counter-clockwise) separate names, like “Spin!” or “Turn!”

It gets confusing

Many people think the two words should be “Right!” And “Left!” Don’t be tempted. Who/s “Right!” do you mean? Yours or the dog’s? What if you’re facing each other? What if you’re next to each other? It just gets tortuous to figure out.

Floor work

If you’re teaching your dog “Roll Over,” it’s pretty much the same thing. The two of you are perpendicular to each other with you sitting and your dog lying down. Bring the hand furthest from the dog’s face over their shoulder, toward their nose. Get them to turn their heads to follow the treat hand.

Instead of going straight back, lure your dog’s motion up and toward you. Most dogs will naturally start rolling over.

Some dogs won’t ever roll over. Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, is flat-out scared of turning turtle. It was Teddy’s, her previous Frenchie, best trick. Fran’s Boston Terriers whirl around any time, any where, all three levels. Since the behavior is basically just for fun, you shouldn’t push your dog if they hate it.

Dance

Start by having your dog stand up on their hind legs and reward at the apex. When the dog has been doing it for a while and is fairly stable on their back legs, move the treat in a circle for them to follow. Again, try to have them turn both ways. (Ceilidh – pronounced “Kay-lee” – loved to dance!)

Most dogs love these behaviors and will get them fairly quickly. You can stop luring it when you think your dog is getting the idea. Continue to reward after the lure isn’t necessary. Dogs may love doing it, but their good work should always be rewarded.

As you fade the lure, you’ll find yourself using the hand motions to trigger the behavior. Take note of how you’re moving so you can use it as a consistent hand signal. In no time at all, your dog will be turning in circles at the wave of your hand!

Training Game- Ring Around The Targets

How long does it take to create a new dog training game? Almost none. On the spur of the moment last night we made up “Ring Around The Targets.”

Most dogs love Target Training. It’s easy, it’s fast, and it lets the dog get rewarded for something they love doing anyway – sticking their noses into something. We started there and embellished, a lot.

Target Training is a great skill to teach your dog, and one that lets you build some distance from your dog. Most dogs are unfamiliar with the idea of doing stuff away from their people. Dogs’ preferred position is right in front of you, staring adoringly at your face.

In our Rally class yesterday we worked on getting the dogs to go away from their people and sit near a plastic cone about eight feet away. To get the dogs to move away by themselves, we used paper plates as targets next to the cones.

Left holding the targets

Since we only play training games for a maximum of five minutes at a time, even in class, Hope wound up with a handful of paper plates that had doubled as targets. So she made up a new game on the spot.

All the Rally class dogs know targets. We usually use plastic lids from containers of products like sour cream, cottage cheese, even ice cream. You can use anything as a target, as long as you’re able to “load” it with a treat.

For our new Ring Around the Targets game, we used the paper plates. You can use as many as you like, but at least five. Arrange them in a circle, with you and your dog in the middle. The circle of targets can be as big as you like – the bigger the better.

Don’t pre-load the targets with treats. We want to reward the dogs, not lure them to the goal.

Release the dogs

After you’ve got everything set up, release your dog. If you’ve built value in the Target game, your dog should dash from one target to the next. Depending on your dog’s experience, you can either follow along and reward each target (for newbies) or wait and give your dog a jackpot when they’ve completed the entire circle (experienced dogs).

All the dogs had a blast and got it right the first time. None of them, or the people, had ever seen the game before. It never existed – Hope just made it up. That’s the kind of training flexibility you’ll have when you play training games with your dog.

When you play training games, your dog expects to have a good time. No matter what the game, whether they know it or not. The expectation of having fun is always there. The dogs are open to trying new things. They’re not wary or afraid of things they haven’t seen before. They trust their training games partner and know it’s going to be fun.

Always a spoonful of sugar

Many of the training games address behavioral issues most dogs have. They teach basic manners and improve dogs’ liveability. But the dogs don’t know that. They just know they’re having fun, understanding more, and getting to spend time with the people they love.

Not all training games have to be useful or have a particular goal in mind. We have dogs because life’s better and more fun with a dog. Some training games are just for fun, too, like the Ring Around the Targets game. The best part is you get to play them with your dog.

Play the hard training games

Remember when you were in school and there were classes you loved, classes that were okay, and those you loathed? Your dog’s version of school is playing training games with you. There are some games they love. And others that they have a hard time with. If you want your dog to live up to their full potential, you have to play the hard training games.

Fortunately, even if you play the tough ones every day, it’s only a couple minutes at a time. The agony will soon be over. And one day, probably sooner than you’d expect, it will suddenly click for your dog and that impossible game becomes a favorite. That’s the way it happens.

Dark, dark, dark, dark. Light Bulb!

A great example is Hope’s French Bulldog Torque learning the “Send Away Sit” (#306) sign in Rally. When you come to the sign, you and your dog stop. The dog sits. Then you tell your dog to go to a pylon or cone which is about six feet away (the Send Away part). You tell your dog to “Sit!”

For the longest time, Torque didn’t understand it at all. Hope tried everything: a target near the pylon, a mat, throwing a treat or a toy. Torque just was not getting it. He wouldn’t go far enough, or too far. He wouldn’t sit, or moved away to sit.

It’s not like Hope pounded away at it. She’d try for a couple minutes about every other week or so. While each little session was a bit frustrating, the failure wasn’t allowed to color all of their training games. Then, after a few months of occasionally trying, it clicked. Now Torque gets it perfectly every time. It took a while, but once it did, it stuck like glue.

If it matters, keep trying

Not everybody has competition goals. Mastering a particular Rally skill may not be on your radar. That’s okay. There are everyday behaviors that are difficult for dogs, yet vital for everyday life. Jumping on people is a good example. If your dog’s idea of saying “Hi! I love you!” is to jump on someone, that’s a problem. If they’ve been doing it for a while, it may take a while to fix. But it’s worth it. Polite greetings require dogs to think, to suppress their impulses, to make good choices.

Just because something is difficult doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing. When you were a child, was it easy to learn how to ride a bicycle? Or tie your shoelaces? Did your friends or siblings have an easier time than you did? There were also things that you understood faster and more easily than they did.

Lean into the hard stuff

It’s unfortunately an absolute truth that the training games your dog understands least are the most important ones to play. This week we introduced the impulse-control game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” in our puppy class. One of the puppies got it in no time. It was almost like he’d been waiting for a chance to shine. Another puppy, who had far exceeded the first in every other game, had a terrible time. During class he showed no sign of understanding at all. And that’s the game we recommend his people play the most.

Almost all of the training games are designed to teach your dog skills that make your life together easier, happier, and more fun. Playing some of them may seem pointless when your dog just isn’t catching on. Dog training isn’t a steady upward climb. There are dips and angles, triumphs and failures. Overall, the trajectory is upwards. The training game your dog finds impossible now will be puppy’s play in a few weeks.

Keeping your sessions fast, fun, and short means there’s always another chance to have fun with your dog. If you play three training games a day (just about 15 minutes), there will be a major difference in your dog’s behavior and understanding in just a couple weeks. Prove it to yourself. Take video of a session with a difficult training game today. Play that game a couple times a week for a month. After that month, take another video and compare. The evidence of progress will be right before your eyes.

Teach a release word

Many people neglect to teach a release word to their dogs. If you don’t, how does your dog know it’s time to stop what they’re doing?

All good stories have three parts; a beginning, a middle, and an end. Dog behaviors or tricks are the same. Each should have the same three parts. Most people do fine teaching the beginning. They understand that a good set-up and focus is crucial.

The middle is sometimes trickier. Rather than teaching the dog to keep doing what it’s doing, they’ll constantly repeat the command. “SitSitSit.” And when they stop saying it, the dog thinks it’s done.

Rarely do we encounter people who emphasize the end, the Release Word. It’s the clearest way to signal that it’s time to move on.

Stop and Go

It doesn’t really matter what word you choose for a Release Word. Many people use “Free” or “Okay” or “Go.” We tend to recommend a word your dog doesn’t hear constantly (like okay). Trainers debate about this all the time. Some are convinced their dogs can discriminate between a command and normal conversation. Others think using a common word is a mistake. You should use a word you can remember and all family members will use.

Release words are most often used in conjunction with the “Stay!” After all, for every “stop” there should be a “go.” If you don’t teach your dog when it’s okay to stop staying, they’ll decide for themselves and the “Stay!” loses meaning.

Steps for teaching the Release Word

Start with the “Stay!” Get your dog to sit, either in front of you or at your side. Holding a treat, bring your hand up to your ear and slowly lower it toward your dog. If your dog moves any paw or their butt, bring the treat back up quickly. They are allowed to move their head or tail only.

If your dog doesn’t move, when your hand is lowered to your dog’s level, give them the treat. Repeat this about three or four times.

Here’s where the Release Word comes in. Don’t move – use exactly the same motion and posture you had for the “Stay!” part. This time, stop your hand’s downward motion slightly above your dog’s head. You want your dog to have to move to get the treat.

When your motion stops, say your dog’s Release Word and wait for them to hop up to get the treat. Don’t move and don’t repeat. Just wait for your dog to move on their own. If you want your dog to understand what a Release Word means, you have to let them figure it out. When they hear “Free!” It means they can move.

It takes patience

The Release Word is pretty easy for most dogs to understand. The hard part is pairing it with other behaviors. You can also use it for “Place!” And it makes a good ending for any other training game, like Puppy Push-ups, or Perch Work.

You don’t always need to use a Release Word. In the “Recall” exercise, you leave your dog in a “Stay!” and walk away. When you get to the other side of the ring, you call your dog to you. In this case, the new command (Come) tells your dog it’s time to do something else and you don’t need to double up with the Release Word.

Whenever you play training games with your dog, think about the beginning, middle, and end. It’s a story you and your dog will enjoy.

Check in with your partner

You may be the one who pays the rent, buys the food, and sets the thermostat. You may even consider yourself the superior partner in your relationship with your dog. But that doesn’t mean you get their unwavering attention 24/7. Depending on the individual dog, it may come close. But you still have to check in with your partner.

All dog training is a partnership and a bargain you make with your dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a pretty good deal, if you look at it that way. But you still can’t take it for granted.

Graphic example

Before every exercise in competition Obedience, the judge asks “Are you ready?” We simulate this in our classes, asking every student before every exercise. Newcomers in the class will, just like in competition, meet our eyes, smile, and say “Ready!”

No, they’re not. It’s usually one of the first opportunities we have to yell at our students. It may be polite to look someone in the eye when you’re talking to them. If you’re at the start line, ready to compete with your dog, forget polite. Before you answer, check with your dog. If the dog meets your eyes and is paying attention, you can answer ready. If they’re not, you get to say, “Not yet!” and engage your dog before you answer “Ready!”

Even with beginners

We also teach Puppy and Beginner classes. The biggest issue, especially in the first class session, is getting the dogs to focus on their people. Expecting them to ignore the new place, new people, and other dogs is asking a lot.

That’s why we start with the super-fun game Puppy Push-ups. Most dogs know at least one of the three positions (Sit, Stand, Down). So we start with a fast, fun game that has the dog paying attention and lots of rewards. The faster they switch position, the more treats come their way. It also helps that most people automatically stand in front of their dogs and block their view of distractions.

Keep their focus

The best definition of a “well socialized dog” is one who can be comfortable enough in any situation to pay attention to their person. Dogs are allowed to check out their surroundings. They can look around, even sniff intriguing scents. They also check in with their person regularly.

You should return the courtesy. Before you start something new, let your dog know what’s happening. If you’ve played the Name Game, all it should take to get their attention is saying their name. Once you have their focus, begin.

When you practice loose-leash walking, don’t just start moving. If your dog isn’t paying attention, the leash is immediately tight. Set yourself and your dog up for success. Get their attention. Say “Let’s go” or something to let them know something’s going on.

Surprises are bad

Once in motion, get in the habit of checking in with your dog when you’re about to stop or change directions. Can you imagine what it feels like to be walking with a friend and they constantly tug on your sleeve, or your shirt collar, to guide you? It’d be uncomfortable and intrusive. Why couldn’t they just say “this way!”

Don’t let the leash be your means of communication with your dog. Tell them. Use your voice and meet their eyes. Your dog wants to be with you. Check in with your partner and tell them where you’re going.

When to stop rewarding the dog

Dog training students always want to know when they can stop rewarding dogs. The answer’s easy. When you don’t care if the dog keeps doing whatever it is.

If you don’t care if your dog sits automatically when you stop moving, stop rewarding it.

If you don’t mind if your dog jumps on guests, stop rewarding polite greetings.

If it doesn’t matter that your dog eliminates outside, stop rewarding the dog.

Stuck forever

On the other hand, if you like what your dog is doing and want them to keep doing it, the rewards have to keep going. You won’t always need treats available in all rooms at all times. But you do have to acknowledge your dog’s good behavior somehow.

The form that takes depends on your dog. If your dog likes jaw scratches, do that. If a hearty “Good Girl!” makes their butt wiggle, use that. But if your dog has a “show me the money” personality, you’d better fork over the goods.

Keep in mind that dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. You can believe as hard as you want that your dog should “know better” by now. But if every instance is a decision-making process, you want the dog’s choice to land on the side of the angels. There’s nothing wrong with stacking the deck to make sure that happens.

Dashing down the stairs

Our dogs all love playing training games. Our morning routine includes a trip down the stairs to the basement training space. Consequently, our dogs all love going downstairs. For a very long time, Simon would dash down the stairs whenever the door opened. Even if we were just reaching for a coat on the stairway coat hooks.

It took some time and effort to convince Simon that he wasn’t supposed to bolt down the stairs as soon as the door opened. We took the time and effort to set the situation up, teaching him to sit, wait, and move only when he heard his release word. In the beginning, the “Sit!” got a food reward. So did the “Wait.” For Simon, the release word means he gets to do what he wants – go downstairs. That’s the reward for good behavior. The food reward isn’t necessary.

He doesn’t always get to go downstairs. Sometimes we’re just reaching for that jacket. Our hand on the doorknob is his cue to “Sit!” and “Wait!” We can now open that door whenever we need to. Simon sees a hand on the doorknob and sits. He waits until we close the door again and give him a treat. We acknowledge his good decision with a reward. If we didn’t, there’d be no reason for him to keep doing it. Going downstairs is extremely rewarding for him. The alternative has to be as attractive.

Encouraging good decisions

A reward, whether it’s a yummy tidbit, tummy rubs, a game of tug, lets your dog know you’ve seen their good decision and like it. Over time, lots of good dog choices become just another part of the routine. Lately we’ve had a few dogs in classes who, for whatever reason, are frightened of going through doorways. For some, it’s particular doorways. For others, it’s all doorways. We don’t know why. We’ll never know why. Dogs never tell us their “why’s.”

All of these dogs are getting over their doorway phobia. In time, both the dogs and their people will be able to sail through any jamb without a second thought. Rewards won’t be required long term, but they are needed now. These people are asking their dogs to be brave and make a scary (to them) choice. The rewards given now build the equation: “When I go through the doorway, good things happen on the other side.” At some point it will become a non-issue. Then you can stop rewarding the dog.

Second nature

Many of the behaviors we teach our dogs become natural parts of life. You won’t always have to reward your dog for walking politely at your side, it will become a habit. In time, sitting when being introduced to guests will be the norm. Your dog’s default behavior will become going to their kitchen “Place!” when you’re cooking. Until those desirable things happen, the rewards have to keep coming.

Dog Training Game – Follow the Point

Does your dog go (or even look) where you point? Or do they check out your pointing hand, sniff it, lick it and sit to be petted? Don’t worry – it’s easy to train your dog to follow the point.

After spending lots of time dropping through the rabbit hole of the internet, there doesn’t seem to be any consensus on whether dogs’ ability to follow where you point is nature or nurture. It is universally accepted that dogs can be trained to follow a pointer. But how, exactly, do you do that?

Looking to you

From the moment you bring a dog home, they’re always learning from you. If you have that niggling feeling there’s always someone watching, you’re right. Unless they’re asleep, your dog is always aware of where you are and what you’re doing. If you’re really attuned to your dog, they can even tell what you’re thinking. Like Fran’s Simon who wakes up from a sound sleep and dashes to the door when Fran thinks about walking her dogs.

If you make a habit of pointing at stuff, your dog may already have a notion of how it works. Most of us have dropped some tidbit on the floor and pointed to it, urging our dogs to get it. Sometimes it works. But it’s not a reliable behavior, just an occasional lucky find.

For this game, we’re going to transform that luck into a bet-on-it, go there, get that.

Intro to Follow the Point

The first step is stupid easy. Get a treat, put it on the floor. Point at it and tell your dog to get it. If your dog has a reliable “Stay!”, use it. Otherwise, hold the dog’s collar with one hand while you place the treat and point with the other. Be sure you don’t release the dog until you’re pointing. This step is just introducing your dog to the relationship between the “Point” and getting good stuff.

After a couple of pointed-at treats, your dog will catch onto the concept pretty easily to follow the point. The next step is to build some distance. If there’s no one else there, and your dog won’t “Stay!” put them on leash and wrap it around a heavy piece of furniture so they can’t grab the treat as you’re placing it.

Point at the treat and release your dog. Keep your arm up and the point intact. We want the dog to learn to move in the direction you’re pointing. Don’t move closer if they don’t dash right over. Just keep pointing. (Patience!)

After a couple repetitions, your dog’s going to start putting things together. Look for them to start watching your arm and hand. When they start anticipating where the instructions are coming from, you know it’s sinking in.

Now put the treat in a bowl and do the same thing another few times. We’re introducing the idea that even if the dog can’t see the treat, it will always be where you point.

What’s next?

It’s one thing for your dog to go where you point. It’s another to choose that direction over another. Get two identical bowls/dishes/targets to put the treat in. Put both bowls out at the distance your dog was successful. Put a treat in one. Go back to your dog and point at the bowl with the treat.

If your dog goes to the wrong bowl anyway, just start over. Try to figure out where the disconnect happened and go back to that step. If you have a dog who’s incredibly nosey, like Fran’s Simon, they’ll probably check out the second bowl. As long as the dog went where you were pointing first, that’s fine. It’s actually a good thing. They’ll know that there are rewards for going where you point, and nothing anywhere else.

This step teaches the dog that there will always be something good where you point. Even when there’s not a treat where you’re pointing, there will be a reward for going there. Dogs reliably do whatever’s most rewarding for them. Make following your point rewarding every time.

Nothing in the bowl

The next step requires the “leap.” Set out the two identical bowls. Don’t put anything in either one. Leave a good distance between the bowls so your dog can’t possibly confuse which you point at. Set up with your dog at your side and point at one of the bowls. If your dog goes to the right bowl, get over there and give your dog a jackpot! Do it again.

When your dog is getting it right most of the time, you can up the challenge by increasing the number of bowls, moving them closer together, or any variation you can think of. As long as your dog always gets rewarded for getting it right, they’ll keep going where you point.

Use your imagination

Following your “Point!” can be the start of all kinds of “go there, get that” behaviors. In competition obedience, it’s known as the Directed Retrieve. The exercise is part of the highest level of Obedience (Utility), and involves three gloves, evenly spaced along one side of a 40 foot long ring. At the opposite side of the ring, the handler points their dog at whichever glove the judge designates. The dog runs out to the glove, picks it up, brings it back to the handler, sits, drops the glove on command.

There are lots of steps for the dog to learn. And all of them are fun for both of you. Recently we saw a version where the dog ran to a cooler, opened it, picked out a bottle of water, and brought it to their person. Your dog can do it, too!

Why dogs pull on leash, and what to do about it

Many dog owners think their dogs pull on leash because they’re in a hurry. They want to get “over there” to sniff whatever nasty things are on the ground. Or maybe the dogs like going faster. Maybe their dogs think there’s something more interesting around the corner.

The truth is much more basic. Dogs like having a tight leash. The reason is simple. If the leash is tight, they don’t have to pay attention to you. When dogs pull on leash, they know exactly where you are and what you’re doing. They can focus on everything around them, and not worry about where you are. In lots of ways, it’s easier for your dog to pull, even if it chokes them, than divide their attention.

Don’t try breaking it

As everyone knows, habits are hard to change. The longer the habit’s been entrenched, the harder it is to break. That’s one of the reasons we don’t try to break the pulling habit. Instead, we establish a new walking game and use it until it becomes a habit you’ll want to keep.

Since dogs always choose the action that’s most rewarding, being by your side has to be the most valuable option. Arm yourself with your dog’s highest-value treats for the Pattern Walking Game. Whether that’s hot dogs, cheese, or whatever bizarre thing your dog loves above all else, have it ready.

Pattern Walking Game

The first step is to choose a three-word phrase you can remember easily. Most people choose “one, two, three.” But it can be anything your dog doesn’t hear all day every day. One of our trainees chose “Coffee, Tea, Wine.” You’ll be saying it a lot, so choose a phrase that comes to you easily. We’ll use “one, two, three,” here. You use your chosen phrase for the steps.

Get five treats and your dog. On leash is good, since that’s how your dog will associate the phrase with walking. Now say the third word in your phrase and give your dog a treat – 5 times.

“Three.” Give your dog a treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.

Your dog doesn’t have to do anything, be anywhere in particular to get the treat. It helps if you say it in an excited voice.

Next steps

Get five more treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. Emphasize the third word. Give your dog a treat when you say the third word:

“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.

We bet you can guess what the next step is in teaching your dog the Pattern Walking Game. Get another five treats and:

“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.

Where you want them

The first few times you play the game, that’s all you do. You have to establish the link between the third word and reward. Once your dog whips their head around at the sound of your third word, you can move on to the next step – where the treat is located.

This step teaches your dog to be in the “reward zone.” Hold the treat by your thigh, on the side where you want your dog to walk. Start all over with three sets of five treats, always holding the treat on “THREE!” where you want your dog’s head to be. That’s by your side. Your dog should start looking for the treat on “Two” and be looking for your reward hand.

Put it in motion

Again, depending on your dog, only move on when your dog anticipates where the reward will be by going to the reward zone as you say your 3-word phrase.

Once the dog is reliably at your side on “THREE!”, take a step as you say each word of the phrase. If your dog isn’t at your side when you say “THREE!”, just wait. Don’t move the treat, or wave it around. Your dog may need a moment to think, so let them. When they come to your side, give them the treat and do it again. And again.

Stretch it out

When your dog understands, take two steps for every word in the phrase. Take your pattern walking to different rooms, outside, in the yard, etc. Put it in motion and take it for a test run.

You can make Pattern Walking a part of longer walks. If you go for 30 minutes walks, don’t use the Pattern Walking Game more than five minutes at a time. If you use it in the middle of a longer walk, set yourself up for success. Get your dog’s attention. Have them sit. Do a quick “One, Two, THREE!” Treat!. And then start the game’s motion.

Using Pattern Walking on a regular basis during walks will establish it as a new habit that’s fun for both of you. It takes some time. That’s okay. It takes time to establish a new routine.

Word of caution

Once your dog is in love with the third word in your phrase it’s tempting to abuse it. It’s not a substitute for a good “Come!” It’s not a way to get your dog’s attention. We’ve had students who start repeating “Three! Three! Three!” when their dog loses attention. Don’t. Use a game like “Touch!” Or “Puppy Push-ups” to center your dog.

Keep your 3-word Pattern Walking phrase sacred for walking. Every time your dog hears the third word, they should get a treat by your side. Every time. No exceptions. If you stick to it, your dog will know exactly what’s expected of them and do it reliably.