fun dog training Archives - 2 Minute Trainer

Dog Training Game: Which Bucket

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When we were kids, our mom worked in Downtown Chicago, in the Loop. During the summer, we would take the “El” into the city to meet her for lunch at the Veranda Room in Marshall Field’s department store. No, there were no dogs there. What was at Field’s, above the first floor cosmetics department, was a magnificent mosaic ceiling, designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Why this trip down memory lane? Because it gave us great joy to stand in the cosmetics department and stare up at the ceiling made of more than a million pieces of iridescent glass. When our necks got tired, we’d look back to ground level and realize that everybody around us was staring up at the ceiling, too. People do that. If you really look at something, everyone around you will stop and look.

So will dogs. And that’s how you start playing the “Which Bucket?” game with your dog.

Variation on a theme

Quite a few of the games we play with our dogs involve them retrieving something and putting it someplace else – the Ring Stacking Game, for one. It’s also the nuts-and-bolts of “Put Your Toys Away.”

The dog only has one place to put whatever it is.

But what if there were two? Or more? And what will the dog do if both containers are identical? or different? All of these options are ways to refresh any “put it away” game. If you just want to add a fun challenge to your game, use any variation and let your dog have fun.

Directed aim

If you want to use the game to strengthen your training connection with your dog, try directing your dog to a specific container. There are a couple ways of doing this. The first is to just look at the container you want your dog to use. Just like staring at the mosaic ceiling, pretend that it’s the most fascinating thing you’ve ever seen in your life. Bend over, get as close as you can.

Keep up a dialogue with your dog. Encourage them, talk to them. Invite them over to check out the neato-keeno container. Remind them to bring the toy/ring/block with them. Talk to your dog and project some enthusiasm and energy. Dogs respond to the atmosphere in the room, so make it fun.

Point it out

The other way to direct your dog to the bin you want them to drop the object in is to point at it. We’ve talked about how some dogs naturally follow a point. For others, it’s a learned skill. But all dogs are capable of it – it’s been part of Obedience competition for years.

Put the two containers out and sit on the floor about equal distance from each one. Bring a bunch of objects you want your dog to put away. We used the dive rings from our ring-stacking game. Hand one of the objects to your dog and point, with one hand or both, to the container you want the dog to put it in. Be sure you also look where you want your dog to go, not at your dog. Facing your dog always stops them. Looking where you want them to go gives them direction.

When the dog moves away from you, toward the container you indicated, celebrate! You’ve just opened another line of communication with your best friend.

Dog Training Game: Put On Your Collar

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There’s one training game we use each and every day, multiple times each day. It’s not particularly exciting, or fun. But it has saved us a ton of aggravation. That’s “Put On Your Collar.”

It’s a simple thing. Just getting the dogs to stand still while we put on their collars or harnesses. Our dogs tend to be backer-uppers. When we approach them, they back up. Which is fine, as long as we’re trying to get somewhere. When we’re getting ready for a walk, it’s not so great. We would grab their collars from the wall hooks and, instead of coming near for us to put it on, they’d back up.

It’s not like they don’t want to go out. Unless it’s pouring rain, they’re all eager to explore the great outdoors. But they’re reluctant to have their outside “clothes” on. Truthfully, we don’t know how common the issue is because we’ve never really talked about it with either our training club buddies or our students. We suspect it’s fairly common, but have no proof.

Born of necessity

We were tired of chasing the dogs around to get collars on. It’s not like any of them object to wearing collars. They were just excited to go out. Which, especially with Boston Terriers, means they start doing zoomies around the house. A house which has a circular path through the rooms, making it impossible to catch a zooming Boston.

A word of warning: Don’t start training “Put On Your Collar” when you have somewhere to go by a certain time. It’s a patience game. Yours may be tested to the extreme.

Lots of waiting

Most people have a phrase they use to let their dogs know it’s time to go for a walk. Around here it’s “chewannagwout?” which starts a stampede for the door. Our dogs’ collars and leashes (hooked together) are on coat hooks by the door.

To start playing “Put On Your Collar,” just pick up your dog’s collar, open it, and hold it out. The goal is for your dog to come to you, stretch their neck out over the collar, and wait for you to fasten it.

The hardest part is waiting for your dog to do it. Don’t move. If you take steps toward your dog, they’ll back up. That’s the “Keep Away” game, even if it’s only a step at a time.

Your dog has to come near enough for you to fasten their collar. Say “Collar!” and hold it out. If they don’t, within a few seconds, just hang the collar/leash back on the hook. And do not lure your dog to come closer. It has to be their idea.

Our dogs just about melted down when the collars went back on the hooks. If yours does, too, pick up the collar, open, and hold it out again.

Be willing to do this multiple times over your short training session. Since you probably won’t make it out the door the first time, make sure your dog doesn’t have to eliminate before you start.

Reward every tiny step

It shouldn’t be too long before your dog actually hovers with their neck over the collar. Reward that little step. If your dog is truly reluctant, start rewarding them for staying in the vicinity, rather than running off. Small steps turn into complete behaviors. Reward for staying, for extending their neck, for waiting until the collar is fastened.

Be sure you use the word “Collar!” or whatever word you choose. Dogs like knowing what’s going on and familiar words and actions enhance communication.

When you return home after your walk, use “Collar!” again to take it off. Build the association between the object and the word. If you use a harness instead of a collar, the progression is the same. Reward for coming close, staying there, and every step involved in putting on the harness. You’ll use this behavior multiple times every week, if not daily. It’s worth the patience it takes to teach.

Knowing Isn’t Doing: Why Your Dog Training Fails

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It’s a sinking feeling when you’re watching your dog training student get out of the car and get dragged across the street to class by her dog. Especially when it’s the last class session.

Not one to hold back, we asked Cheryl if she’d been practicing her Pattern Walking, and how the dog, Katy, was doing with it.

Imagine our surprise when Cheryl told us that Katy was really good at it.

Next question: “Why aren’t you using it?”

Answer: “I didn’t think of it.”

Knowing and doing

Almost every training game we teach has a practical purpose. Which we explain along with the mechanics of the game.

None of it does any good if you don’t use it. One of the subtler goals of 2-Minute Training is for you to get in the habit of training. Just a couple of minutes, whenever you have them. Treat containers in every room. Talking to your dog, expecting them to listen and be happy to play with you.

None of it works if you don’t use it

Raise your expectations

Your dog already loves playing with you. They love those couple minutes of attention. And they’re probably using what they know, if you expect them to.

It’s all about building good habits as a dog owner. When it’s time to go for a walk, expect your dog to come and sit for their collar and leash. Until they do, nobody’s going anywhere.

You don’t chase them around the house. You tell them what you’re doing. “Wanna go out? Good! Sit! Good! Collar!” And hold it open, ready for them to extend their neck and hold still. If you enforce the rules every single time, your dog will abide by them, every single time.

Stick to routines

Cheryl’s going to establish a routine for getting out of the car. Katy must wait for her release word to get out of the car. She has to wait for permission to go. And she has to walk politely as she’s been taught. Not pull like a tractor.

It’s totally Cheryl’s fault. If she doesn’t expect her dog to behave politely, and teach her what that means, she deserves what she gets. None of it works if you don’t use it.

Training games are designed to be fun. You’re supposed to have a good time interacting with your dog. But it’s up to you to use the games to make life with your dog easier for both of you.

Dog Tricks 101

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An accomplished Obedience competitor we know once told us, rather huffily, that she doesn’t teach her dog tricks. Like it was beneath her dignity. Fast forward to now. Her current dog, a very soft and rather timid being, loves learning tricks and knows a bunch of them. When the dog wants attention doesn’t bark or paw at her mom. She “sits pretty.” And no one can resist that. Especially not her mom.

Why teach tricks? Because it’s fun! There’s no pressure to achieve anything. It creates joy for you and your dog. It not only brings the two of you closer in synch, it deepens understanding and trust between you. And, as important as any other factor, it increases your dog’s confidence. Dogs love knowing stuff. And they love knowing they know stuff.

All dog tricks fall into one of two categories:

The dog has to manipulate an object in some way.

The dog has to manipulate his/her body in some way.

Get a move on

Of the two, getting the dog to move on their own is probably easier. Luring works for getting dogs to move where and how you want them. Luring introduces the motion for everything from “Puppy Push-ups” to “Spin!” All of the dog-motion tricks start with a lure to familiarize your dog with the action.

From there, it’s a matter of practicing with a consistent name for the motion and/or a unique hand signal. Dogs can learn either or both. If you want your dog to know the verbal and movement cues separately, start with both and as your dog becomes proficient, separate words from motion. Use the verbal command sometimes, the hand signal other times. Most dogs will show a preference for one kind of signal over the other. Notice which your dog responds to more quickly and consistently.

When your dog is familiar with the trick, whatever it is, you can start “fading” the lure. Try it without holding a treat sometimes, making sure to reward your dog immediately after completing the trick. Your dog will start to understand that the reward will always be there, even if they don’t see it before they start.

Tricks with props

Without hands and opposable thumbs, dogs’ interaction with objects is more limited than people’s. But that doesn’t have to limit your imagination – or your dog’s.

If there’s a trick with objects you want your dog to learn, the process is pretty simple. Just present the object to your dog and reward the interaction you want. If your dog isn’t used to checking out new objects, it may require some patience. Even with something dogs enjoy as much as Target Training, it may take a few sessions for the dog to figure out you want them to bop it, not pick it up, chew on it, throw it around, etc.

Just be patient. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. Generally speaking, they figure out pretty quickly what gets them “paid” and what doesn’t. That doesn’t mean you can’t talk to them, encourage them, and tell them how wonderful they are. When they do figure it out, you’ll see how happy and proud they are.

Nothing in particular

If you don’t have a particular behavior or trick in mind, you can always let your dog’s actions direct the game. Like the Boxey game, if there’s no right or wrong answer, the dog has the opportunity and freedom to be creative and try new things. Your dog may create an entirely new game. Even if you and your dog are the only ones who know the rules, it’s still a game worth playing.

By all means take video of your training game learning sessions as well as the finished products. While you may want to show off your dog’s brilliance on social media, the recordings you’ll cherish most will probably be ones where you’re just starting your games and learning together. The accolades are nice, but the most precious memories will be the ones where you and your dog goofed around and had the most fun.

Dog Training Game – Under

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Our obedience club recently had a “Tricks Title” evening. Hope and another club member, also an AKC evaluator, were the judges for the event. To get a Tricks title, the dog and person have to perform a specified number of tricks, depending on the level.

For the first (Novice) level, the tricks are mostly things that just about any dog already knows. If you aren’t familiar with the AKC Tricks program, it’s fun and you can get the title with a video submission. Getting that title certificate in the mail is special – proof that your dog can do things most don’t.

One of the tricks we saw that evening was “Under” – the person went down on hands and knees and the dog ran under the person’s chest.

Seems simple, but it’s not

We hadn’t thought of doing that with our dogs, so the next morning we tried. Not one of them did it. As a matter of fact, the dogs tried everything they could think of to go around, behind, or even between our arms to figure it out.

You never know what behaviors will stump your dogs. This one didn’t seem confusing, but it was. We just had to find a way to explain it in steps our dogs would understand.

Hitting the Target Game

The Target Game is fun by itself. It’s also the gateway to all kinds of behaviors and tricks for having fun with your dog.

We use it for many behaviors, from teaching dogs to go over jumps, to the “Stay!” and release, to the Obedience “Go Out!”

With our dogs in a “Sit, Stay!” we got down on hands and knees, putting the target on the floor opposite to our dog. We keep it within reach, so we can put a treat on the target when the dog touches it.

For all of our dogs, the Target worked. The first time. They watched the set-up, and dashed “Under!” us to the target.

Did we really mean it?

Just because the dog does it once, doesn’t mean they know it. Once the dogs went “Under!” in one direction didn’t mean they understood it from the other side.

It also took a few tries to convince them we really meant it. Again, they tried to go around our legs to get to the target, or in front of us, or between our arms.

We’ll never know why our dogs were reluctant to go “Under!” us. But a few repetitions, rewards for getting it right, and a little patience has put a new trick in our repertoire.

Just for fun

Adding tricks like “Under!” is just another way to expand your bond with your dog and enrich their life. In just a couple minutes at a time, your dog could be on the way to getting mail!

Practice always shows

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When we were little girls and took piano lessons, it always amazed us when our teacher knew when we hadn’t practiced. We were tone-deaf to our week-to-week improvement or lack thereof. But our teacher knew. Just like we can tell which participants in our classes play training games with their dogs. Practice always shows.

Unlike must-do homework and work projects, both piano lessons and dog training are things you do for fun and enrichment. There’s no accountability for neglecting practice. Except that you’ll never play Carnegie Hall. Or your dog will never walk politely on leash.

Just like we couldn’t tell whether we were getting better at playing the piano, you probably don’t see much difference in your dog’s behavior with a couple weeks of training games under your belt. But if you had a recording of your first time playing any training game, you’d be astonished by the difference.

Minimal investment, maximum return

The one game that most people do practice is “Puppy Push-ups.” We’re not sure if it’s because we start every class with the game, or if people (and dogs) just like it. But by the third week of class, every dog in every class we’ve ever taught is reliably understanding all three commands: Sit!, Stand!, and Down!

And yet, it seems that most people don’t even bother teaching their dogs this elementary training game. If they did, we’re pretty sure our TikTok video of it would be ignored, rather than having over a million and a quarter views.

Training games are easy to fit into your day. Focus on just one or two at a time. Figure out where you’ll probably play (near the couch, in front of the screen), stash a container of treats nearby. When a commercial starts streaming, call your dog over to play. Or just open the treat container. That should get Fido’s attention!

Pick your battles

Trainers have a saying that “Every dog is trained to their owner’s level of comfort.” It’s up to you to decide the aspects of dog behavior that are important, interesting, and fun for you and your dog. You may not care if your dog knows how to “Spin!,” so don’t bother with it. But you do want your dog to sit politely to greet guests in your home. That game moves up to the top of the list.

At the start of classes we’ll ask our students “What’s your dog’s best training game?” The answer is always the one that’s most important to that person. That’s the one they chose to play. And it’s the one their dog is best at. The practice and the proficiency go hand in hand.

Don’t complain. Train.

Dogs’ naughtiest behaviors often become the stories and anecdotes that build family legends. Like our first dog sneakily swiping a steak from the kitchen table while we were all standing there watching him. Or the auntie who darted into the bathroom as soon as you emerged to take anything/everything out of the wastebasket before her dog nabbed it.

But you don’t really want the funny stories. You want a dog who understands the rules of your household and is a full participant in family life. Pick a game. Any game. Start with one. Before you know it, you and your dog will have a concert-worthy repertoire.

Dog Training Game: Paws and Boots

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All dogs know the stuff that’s important. That doesn’t mean all dogs know the same stuff. What I think is important to teach my dog may be nothing at all like the stuff your dog knows. That’s okay. Every dog is trained to their owners’ level of comfort. If it matters to you, you’ll teach your dog. We think the dog training game Paws and Boots belongs in everyone’s repertoire.

If you don’t care, that’s fine. One of our current training students doesn’t mind that her dog jumps up on people. There’s absolutely no reason to train this dog not to do it. If you don’t mind, it doesn’t matter.

There is one exception. Every dog owner should care about their dog’s physical well-being, fitness, and body awareness. Like all training games, it’s fast and fun. This one also can make a difference in your dog’s life, extending their comfort and mobility even into their senior years.

Building the foundation

Dogs are a lot like people. When they’re young, strong, and healthy some take advantage of their physical prowess and build healthy habits that last a lifetime. Others are couch potatoes by nature and consider most movement optional and exercise a dirty word.

Whatever you choose for yourself, you should claim a place in the “Healthy Habits” camp for your dog. Muscles and joints are “use it or lose it” features. Making a game of exercise now sets them up for an active and thriving old-dog life.

Play Paws and Boots

Most dogs know they control their front legs and paws. Some use their front paws for much more than just walking. They’ll paw at you for attention, use their front paws to move stuff, even rearrange their bedding with front paws. The vast majority of dogs don’t know they also have back paws. Most have no idea they control their “boots,” too.

To play “Paws and Boots” you need something low, 4 to 6 inches, that your dog can step up on. An inflatable balance disc, a large rubber feed bowl, a short stool, even a cushion will do.

The first step is the easier one. Get your dog to put their front feet on the stool (or whatever you’re using). Like all training games, the dogs learn better if it’s their idea, so be patient. Stare at the stool and reward any interaction with it. If the dog looks at it, reward. The next step may be sniffing it, or pawing it. Reward about three or four times for each level of interaction, then wait for more. Get really enthusiastic with your praise when your dog uses their paws.

When the dog is putting two front feet on the stool, start naming it. Most people say something like “Paws Up!”

Around you go

Once your dog has two feet up on the stool, put pressure on them by moving into their space, even nudging their side with your leg. This is one of the few times we’ll advise holding a treat with the hand further from the dog. With both of you facing the stool, if the dog is on your right side, hold the treat in your left hand, with your arm across your body, close to the dog. As the dog curls their neck toward your treat hand, they’ll move their back legs away from you. Continue all the way around the stool, both directions.

It may take a few sessions to get all the way around. Your dog doesn’t understand what you want yet and may keep dropping down to the floor. Try again, praising every time the dog puts front feet on the stool.

Boots are harder

It’s more difficult to teach dogs their back feet, or “Boots” are under their control. The easiest way to start the Boots portion is to have your dog walk across the stool and stop them with boots up. If they come off the object, just try again, repeatedly walking them over and getting them to stop with boots up. Be sure to repeat the phrase “Boots Up!” when they’re in the correct position so they understand that’s the objective.

When they understand “Boots Up!” it’s time to move them around the stool. For this portion of the game, stand facing your dog and take small steps to either side to encourage them to move their feet. Again, it may take a while for the dog to learn what “Boots Up!” means. Be patient. It’s an exercise for a lifetime, not a deadline.

Movement Puzzle #2: Work the Arc

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The object is to teach your dog to think

Multi-tasking is a skill that can be developed in dogs as well as people. We’re not talking about a DaVinci-esque ability to write different things with each hand simultaneously. We’re not even talking about the physical coordination needed to walk and chew gum. Instead, we’re focusing on teaching your dog to think even when over-the-top excited. There’s no point in telling your dog to calm down when they’re excited. It’s like teaching a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. Instead, give your dog the skills to listen and decide, even in chaotic, noisy, and distracting environments.

Different levels

To set up the Arc movement puzzle, a fun derivation of Vito’s Game, gather some different-height, sturdy stools, boxes, benches, etc. big enough for your dog to stand on and able to support your dog’s weight. You’ll also need a couple flat items to start each side of the Arc. Don’t worry about collecting all of it before you get started. You’ll add on over time.

For the first session, you’ll need one low step and two flat mats. Place the step in the center and a mat to either side. You’ll also need two bowls to drop treats into and some treats. You can set up wherever you have enough room for your dog to move. This is one of the games you can play outside, weather permitting.

The objective of the puzzle, for your dog, is to move from one side to the other, stepping on each of the obstacles in the Arc each way. For the first session it’s just the three items on the curve of the Arc.

Get started

Since this is a puzzle for your dog to solve, start by setting your dog up on the small step. You’ll add the two mats later. Go stand between the two bowls. Drop a treat in one of the bowls and let your dog get it. Then look at the step. If your dog returns to the step, look at the other bowl. Just look. Don’t drop a treat in until your dog starts moving toward it.

Don’t say anything. Don’t tell your dog where to go. Remember, the object is to teach your dog to think. If you give your dog the answer, it’s not a dog puzzle, it’s you controlling your dog. You’re hinting at the answer by where you look: bowl, step, opposite bowl. That subtle cue is all your dog gets. The rest they solve on their own.

It may take a while for your dog to get the hint and figure out what you want. They may bark, scratch, fuss, etc. Ignore it. Stick with the puzzle cues. Your dog will, in time, go from bowl to step to other bowl and back again. Every time they get near the bowl, drop a treat in.

Next step

When your dog has figured out the sequence, add the two flat mats on either side of the step. The dog must step on all three objects to get the treats. Again, moving from side to side.

This puzzle keeps your dog moving and thinking at the same time. As they conquer each step, add more. Either add steps of different levels to either side, or move yourself and your bowls further away, or add tall objects to the ends of the arc for the dog to go around.

The possibilities for this game are limitless. You can add objects to circle, to crawl under, to jump over, etc. When you teach your dog to think, and as they learn the rhythm of the movement puzzle, they’ll look forward to new challenges.

Back and forth

It’s a simple concept, move back and forth to get the treats. It’s also a puzzle that’s as challenging as you choose to make it.

You won’t know where your dog’s limits are if you never test them. You could discover that there are no barriers to your dog’s possibilities. Find out. Just for the fun of it.

Movement Puzzle #1 – Vito’s Game

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What’s your absolute favorite thing about doing puzzles? It’s figuring them out for yourself. It’s not as much fun if somebody helps you, or gives you a hint.

Your dog is going to love learning movement puzzles. They’ll look forward to playing every time. Your dog will love seeing what new twists you add to their puzzles.

But it’s going to be hard on you. Probably more difficult than any other training game you’ve played with your dog. Because you’re not allowed to help.

Simple setup

There are basically two main variations of the Movement Puzzle. This week we’ll introduce the more static version. You get to sit for this one.

This thinking game / movement puzzle is called “Vito’s Game.” We were introduced to it in a video by the great dog trainer Susan Garrett of “Say Yes!” Dog training.

You need two bowls for treats, lots of treats, and an obstacle for your dog to go around. It can be anything. We generally use a five-gallon bucket or a wastebasket.

Sit on the floor with your legs crossed. Have one empty bowl at each side, near your hips. Hold the treats between your legs.

Start playing side to side

Get your dog’s attention and gently toss a treat off to your right. Then toss one to your left. This will implant the idea of going side to side in your dog’s mind. Do it a couple more times, alternating sides, and make your toss a little closer each time. For the last introductory part, drop a treat in one of the bowls at your side. Then, after your dog’s gotten that treat, drop one in the bowl on the other side.

Now’s the time to start using the bucket. Put it right up against your shins so your dog has to go around it to get to your other side. Now wait. (It’s hard, but you’ve got this.)

If your dog goes right to one of the bowls, drop a treat in it. Wait for them to go around the bucket to the other side. You can look at the empty bowl, but you can’t say anything, or tap the bowl, or give any other cue. It’s up to your dog to go around and check the other bowl. As soon as they do, drop a treat in.

When your dog is fairly reliably going side-to-side to get the treats from the bowls by your sides, start gradually moving the bucket away from you. Your dog still has to circle around the bucket, side to side, to get the treats.

Booker playing Movement Puzzle Vito's Game

Booker got it right - a treat goes in the bowl.

If your dog takes a shortcut and tries to get to the other side by taking a path between you and the bucket, don’t say anything. Just move the bucket closer and start again.

Think about it

Vito’s Game is a puzzle your dog has to solve. It’s a thinking game, something most people don’t normally expect, or require from their dogs. But good training encourages dogs to make good decisions. The dog has to figure out what they have to do to get the treats.

You may have to start from scratch the first few times you play Vito’s game. That’s okay. Your dog will get it. As long as you do your part.

Your job is to deliver treats to the bowls. That’s it. For the game to be effective, you can’t cheat. No hints, no cues, no talking, no tapping treats on the bowls, no telling your dog what to do. Let your dog find the joy in solving the puzzle.

Training Game: Hold it!

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Teaching your dog to “Hold it!” is more useful than you’d think.

It’s adorable. We know someone whose dog holds a white board, so she can write any message or greeting and have a ready-made perfect social media post.

It’s helpful and adorable. Someone else we know taught her competition obedience dog to hold and carry his gear bag. The best part was the dog wasn’t a Golden Retriever or a Border Collie. He was a toy dog – a little Brussels Griffon.

It’s game-changing, helpful, and adorable. Teaching your dog to hold something in high-traffic areas can keep them busy and out of trouble. Even if you have an exuberant, excitable dog.

Why it’s magical

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque makes lots of funny sounds. Most Frenchies do. Other dogs have, on occasion, reacted poorly to him. It got to the point where he was always on the lookout for other dogs, ready to bark and behave rather rudely.

Torque also loves toys. Rubber balls with holes in them are his favorite. So Hope taught him to “hold” his toy. Now he confidently walks around anywhere, from the local neighborhood to a dog sport competition, showing everyone his little pink ball. Everyone thinks it’s adorable, not camouflage for potential misbehavior.

If your dog is somewhat leash-reactive, or reacts to other dogs, people, bicycles, strollers, etc. on walks, you can solve your problem by teaching your dog to “Hold!” a favorite toy. Instead of leaving the impression that your dog’s a jerk, you’ll inspire positive reactions and smiles. Make sure the toy’s a cute one, and as charming as possible. Like Torque and his little pink ball.

Teaching “Hold it!”

Most dogs want to hang onto their favorite stuff. If that’s the case for your dog, your training challenge will be sustaining the “Hold!” then getting your dog to “Drop it!” on command. Of course, ultimately your dog will have to “Drop it” when you tell them to. That’s another game.

If your dog naturally holds things, the first step is to make sure the dog will “Hold!” while wearing a collar and leash. If they’re used to playing naked, this may be more of an adjustment than you’d think. Just practice while the dog is “dressed,” putting light tugging pressure on the toy. If your dog drops the toy, just look at it and say something like “What happened? You dropped it!” Let the dog think picking it up is their idea. It is your dog’s job to keep track of their own toy.

Once the dog is securely holding the toy, pick up the leash and add motion. Again, if the dog drops the toy, let them pick it up. Just look at the toy and encourage your dog to get it. If you start picking up the toy when the dog drops it, they’ll rely on you to keep doing it. If they know mom (or dad) will get it, they’ll feel free to drop the toy to yell at that dog across the street. It’s your dog’s job to hold the toy and retrieve it if it’s dropped.

Gradually add more motion as your dog becomes good at “Hold!” Then practice everywhere. Remember that it’s your dog’s job to take care of their toy, but be sure you know where it is and take charge if necessary.

Not a possessive type

If your dog readily drops whatever they pick up, your challenge is more complex. You have to build value in the “Hold!”

Start with a favorite toy. If your dog doesn’t have one, you choose one that’s small enough for your dog to hold comfortably, and that has some part you can grab. If your dog will not pick up a toy, get down on the floor and slowly swish the toy back and forth in front of your dog, lightly brushing their forelegs with it. Most dogs find this both intriguing and annoying, and they’ll eventually succumb to the temptation to grab it.

Since your goal is the “Hold!,” don’t start a vigorous game of “Tug!” when your dog grabs the toy. Instead, keep up a steady pressure. This will trigger the dog’s natural tendency to pull. Since you’re keeping the game rather gentle, the dog shouldn’t go into head-shaking, kill-the-toy tugging. Get your dog used to moving around while playing gentle tug with you.

If your dog drops the toy and leaves you holding it, you drop it, too. Then stare at it and encourage your dog to “get it!” If they don’t, or seem confused, you can toss the toy a short way away and “race” your dog to the toy. Let them win! Then you can start the tugging pressure again.

Be patient

Like all behaviors, every dog picks up on “Hold!” at their own pace. Be patient and persistent. If you have a dog whose leash manners could use improvement, giving them something to “Hold!” is the fastest way to achieve better leash behavior.