dog training the fun way Archives - Page 2 of 10

Just for the fun of it – Train Your Dog!

There seems to be a mindset that dog training is something you “have” to do. The truth is, most dogs are only “trained” to function within the family. It’s almost like people see it as a chore, rather than a chance to play with their dogs. We wish they could see the fun the rest of us have when we play training games with our dogs.

That’s all it really is. Dogs love to learn, love having a job, and love spending time with you. Most dogs today aren’t really “working” dogs. Their primary job is to be great companions, and they’re great at it.

Ask for more

That’s fine. If you’re a couch potato and want your dog to lounge next to you and stare at screens all day, go for it.

But if you want more, it’s at your fingertips. If you’re just a little bit intrigued by the possibilities of what you and your dog can do together, start with one little training game. Play “Touch!” for two minutes.

If you do, you’ll be amazed by how quickly your dog catches on. And how happy your dog is to play with you. When was the last time you saw that open-mouth, silly grin on your dog’s face?

Not just us – dogs love to play training games

Last week one of our students told us something that makes us glad. She said that by late afternoon, if she hasn’t played training games with her dog, he comes to find her and won’t stop bothering her until they have a training session. If you’ve found a good training class, your dog should practically drag you into the room. Dogs should love to play training games.

We wish there was another word than “training” for what we do with our dog. It has so many dull, painful, boring connotations. Until we think of one, or make one up, it will have to do.

Give it a new definition

One thing we can do now is urge you to just try. Give it a week. One or two training games a day – less than 10 minutes. If it doesn’t work, if you don’t have fun, if your dog doesn’t learn stuff, let us know.

We know you’re tired at the end of the day. So get up five minutes earlier and play training games with your dog’s breakfast. Use one commercial break from whatever screen you’re watching to play with your dog.

Here’s the warning label: Playing training games with your dog is addictive. If you don’t love your dog and don’t want to have a singular bond with them, do not play.

Don’t say we never warned you.

Let your dog freestyle

Do you ever let your dog freestyle your 2-Minute sessions? Or do you always have a goal in mind when you’re playing training games?

We agree with Apple CEO Tim Cook: “Let your joy be in your journey – not in some distant goal.”

While we do teach our dogs the skills they need to compete in dog sports, that’s not the focus of training games. Giving your dog the biggest, best, happiest life is the reason for this joyful journey.

Cue your dog’s creativity

Just for the fun of it, grab a bunch of random household stuff you don’t really care about. Nothing breakable, please. Then toss it on the floor and let your dog loose. You don’t even have to have any treats. Just let your dog do whatever they want for a couple of minutes.

Sometimes, they’ll come up with a whole new game. In one of Simon’s freestyle sessions he showed Fran he liked to make towers of toys. She’s now working on a container-stacking game.

Other choices

It’s also possible that absolutely nothing useful will come from the play session. Faced with some random objects, Hope’s Torque decided the most fun thing would be to destroy cardboard tubes. That’s what he wanted to do. That’s what he did. And he had fun doing it.

At first your dog may not understand the concept. They may look to you for direction. It takes a while for dogs who have always been under instruction to understand they’re free to do whatever they want.

This is where you have to be patient. Which, as we all know, is the absolute hardest part of dog training. You can encourage your dog to check things out, but try not to interact with any of the objects. If your dog starts moving among them, or sniffing them, encourage the dog. But don’t interfere. Let them figure it out.

Building confidence when you let your dog freestyle

Making decisions helps dogs build confidence. In these freestyle sessions where anything goes, they’ll learn to explore more. Often in dogs’ lives they’re not allowed to go where they want, do what they want, check out interesting things.

These improvised sessions counter-balance both the regular routine and the strict structure of most dogs’ days. It’s another way to enrich their lives. And it’s fun.

Teaching “Fetch!”

You might think there are two kinds of dogs in the world. Those who love to play “Fetch!” and those who just don’t get it. In fact, the two kinds of dogs are: 1) those who love to play “Fetch!” and 2) those who don’t love it yet. Teaching fetch the 2-Minute Trainer way will make up for that!

It may take a little time, patience, and slobber to get there, but you can if that’s your goal. Like all of our dog training games, you break it down into small steps and teach one at a time.

The game of “Fetch!” is really not as simple as it looks. There are a lot of small steps that all add up to a complete game.

The first step is for your dog to love playing with a toy with you. The “with you” is the important part. If you’re not part of the play from the outset, you never will be. It doesn’t matter what toy you start with, as long as it has someplace for both of you to hold on. Balls don’t. Balls on ropes do. Bones don’t. Plush toys do.

Getting the grab

If there’s a toy your dog already loves that fits the bill, you’re ahead of the game. If you have a dog that doesn’t much care about toys, you may have to work a bit to get there. To get your dog to play with a toy with you, start by being annoying. Swish the toy back and forth on the floor in front of your dog, being sure to contact their front paws as you go. Keep it a slow, back and forth motion. With some excited dialog: “You gonna get it?” “What’s that?” “Get it!”

When your dog does grab the toy – and it may take some time to get the grab – play tug! (A word of caution about tug. Be sure to tug back and forth. Up and down motion could injure your dog’s neck or spine.) If your dog drops the toy, you drop it, too. Encourage your dog to “Get it!” If they do pick it up, start playing tug again. If they don’t, go back to your swishing. To graduate to the “Fetch” part, the toy has to be valuable to the dog, they have to want to get it without you holding it.

Make tug the best game ever

Once your dog loves playing tug, the next part is easier. In the middle of a game of tug, drop the toy and run away from your dog. At first, just go a step or two. When you turn around to look at your dog, they should be right behind you. Grab your end of the toy and play tug! The tugging game will be your dog’s reward when they “Fetch!”

The fastest way to get a dog to come to you is to run away from them. It also works with human toddlers. It takes guts to run away from your dog when they’re on the loose and headed for traffic, but it does work. Chasing after a dog is every dog’s signal to play “You Can’t Catch Me!,”, which is never what you really want to play.

If your dog has dropped the toy, or isn’t following you, run back to the toy and excitedly say something like “You forgot something!” “Where’s your toy?” “Get it!” When the dog picks it up again, say “Good Get it!” and run a couple of steps away.

Be patient. If your dog has never played “Fetch!” or is inconsistent in either carrying or bringing the toy, keep trying. It may take a few 2-Minute sessions for them to get the idea. Hope’s French Bulldogs have never been natural retrievers, or toy fanatics. But each and every one learned to love the retrieve, which is Obedience parlance for “Fetch!”

And you’re teaching “Fetch!”

Once your dog loves playing tug with you, and loves chasing you to play tug, you can progress to “Fetch!” Show your dog the favorite tug toy and then toss it away. As soon as you throw, turn around and start to run away. Again, if your dog drops the toy, or doesn’t get it to chase you instead, run to the toy and encourage your dog to pick it up. When they do, run a few steps, turn around and play “Tug!” See that: you’re teaching “Fetch!”

Be patient. If your dog isn’t a natural retriever, they have to learn all the parts of the game and come to love each and every part. When it all falls into place, you’ll always have it. “Fetch!” will be a part of your repertoire forever.

The Dog’s Shell Game

Both you and your dog always win when you play the Dog’s Shell Game. It looks like the con-artist’s street corner version, but it doesn’t cost a thing.

This isn’t a training game per se. It’s just a fun game to play with your dog that lets them use their natural ability to sniff. It’s a game that lets your dog just be a dog, and you go along for the ride.

How to play

All you need is some rather smelly treats and three cups or little bowls. We’d recommend using ones that aren’t breakable. And are washable. Because dog spit.

You can play anywhere you have enough space to sit on the floor with your dog.

Start by letting your dog sniff the treat. Then line up your cups or bowls and hide the treat under one of them. It’s perfectly okay for your dog to see what you’re doing.

Leaving the bowls flat on the floor, shift them around a few times in random order. The beauty part of this game is you don’t have to remember where the treat is. It’s up to your dog to find it.

Find it!

Then just let your dog go find the treat. They should use their noses to locate it. If they knock over the cup, that’s fine. Some dogs don’t make a beeline to the treat because they may not understand it’s a sniffing game.

When they indicate which bowl, pick it up and let them get the treat if they were right. If they chose poorly, just say something like “That’s not it! Keep trying!” It’s up to you whether you set that bowl aside or reintroduce it into the game.

Do it again!

After they find the treat the first time, they’ll know better what the game is about. It’s fun when they catch on and sit watching you move the cups around. See if your dog watches the target bowl or the whole set up. If they watch a single bowl, they’ll probably go right to that one when you release them.

Once your dog knows how to play the game, you can replace the treat with anything that has a scent. If you’re into Nose Work, you’re familiar with having dogs sniff out the essential oil scents used in the sport. You can use a cotton pad with just a few drops of scent. Just be ready with a treat to reward your dog so they’re not tempted to eat the cotton pad.

No fooling

Unlike the con artist, you’re not trying to fool your dog. You want them to succeed by using their natural scenting ability, like the “Find It!” dog training game. On a sniffari walk, your dog meanders from place to place, checking out the surrounding odors. The Shell Game has the added benefit of making you a vital part. Whenever possible, you want to be included in your dog’s fun.

Dog Training Game – Automatic Sit

The “Automatic Sit!” is one of those games where you have to work a bit to make it fun. Remembering that your dog feeds off your energy – if you think it’s boring, it is. If you think it’s another fun game you can play together, it will be.

What is an “Automatic Sit”? When you’re walking with your dog, every time you stop your dog sits. It’s simple. It’s easy. And it’s a habit that most people don’t bother to develop for their dogs. But it’s an important one, especially for city dwellers. If your dog sits every time you reach a curb, or a driveway, you know you have time to check traffic before moving on. Just that simple. And possibly life-saving.

First things first

Does your dog know the word “Sit!”? Most people will swear they do. But most people are wrong. Keeping in mind that dogs learn things in context, do a little test of your dog’s understanding.

Your dog probably knows “Sit!” when you’re face-to-face. And you have a treat in your hand. You probably lift the treat up as you say “Sit!” Or you may simultaneously bring the treat up while you push on your dog’s butt. If any of that is familiar, you need to take the test.

With your dog at your side, your hands empty of treats, and hanging straight, say “Sit!” to your dog. If they do it, that’s great! Your dog really knows the word. If they don’t, you’re allowed to look at your dog’s butt, but not repeat “Sit!” If they still don’t do it, you need to expand your dog’s understanding of “Sit!”

Easy peasy

Getting your dog to understand “Sit!” is simple. But you have to actually do it. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. If you enter a room and your dog is sitting, say “Good Sit!” Give them a treat. That’s it. If you say “Sit!” and your dog instantly does it, reward! Keep repeating the word “Sit!” when your dog’s doing it.

Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. The catch is you have to teach them. Unlike toddlers and children, dogs can’t pick up vocabulary by overhearing conversations or understanding context. Expanding your dog’s vocabulary requires your conscious decision to teach them. They’ll pick it up quickly, given the opportunity.

Once your dog’s “Sit!” is rock-solid, it’s time to take it a step further with the Automatic Sit!

Step at a time

This part’s easy, too. For one of your 2-Minute Training sessions, with your dog at your side, take a single step. Tell your dog “Sit!” when you stop. Take another single step. Say “Sit!” when you stop. Rinse and repeat. Single steps for just a minute or two.

If your dog doesn’t do it immediately, or seems confused, just wait. Give them a chance to think. If the halt-step wedding-march is confusing for your dog, there are a couple things you can do to clear it up. Always start moving with the foot closest to the dog. This is an Obedience hack. If you move the foot closest to the dog first, they know they’re supposed to move with you. If you move the opposite foot first, they know to stay. Dogs are smart.

You can also cue them when you start moving and when you stop. “Let’s Go!” even for the single step. And “Halt! Sit!” when you stop.

Always useful

That’s really all there is to teaching your dog the “Automatic Sit!” When your dog is doing great in your 2-Minute session, take the behavior with you on your next walk. At first, remind your dog to “Sit!” when you stop. And “Let’s Go!” when you start moving. Sitting at stops will become your dog’s good habit quickly.

Being nice isn’t dog training

What do you do when society’s dictates conflict with your goals? If you’re out trying to train your dog and somebody wants to “say Hello!” to your dog? You want to be nice. But being nice isn’t dog training.

A longtime friend who’s also a very experienced dog trainer is a student in our Puppy Obedience class this session. While it’s always great to see friends, most people would wonder why she’s there. After all, she’s been training dogs for many years. And even though she does have a new puppy, she pretty much knows all the ins and outs of household obedience training.

She’s there for the same reasons we take our own dogs to someone else’s puppy classes. One is because we want our puppies to go to new places, experience new things, and learn how to act in public. That’s the socialization part.

The other part is that most people, from family and friends to complete strangers, won’t pay attention when you ask them to help further your training.They won’t follow your instructions on how you want puppy interactions to go. And a good proportion of those people will undermine what you’re doing. If not deliberately, then accidentally.

Hop on Pop

The easiest example most people can identify with is when your puppy (or dog) jumps on people to say hello. Almost every single person will give the puppy the attention he’s asking for. Which is rewarding the dog for misbehaving, guaranteeing that it will happen again. And again.

It’s hard to find people who will stand like statues and stare at the ceiling while an adorable little puppy is jumping on them, pawing them, nudging them, and begging for their attention. It’s almost as hard for the owner of the puppy to let it happen. Your first instinct is to make it stop, even if you have to grab the puppy by the collar and haul it away. Again, that gives the puppy exactly what it’s looking for – attention.

Good or bad doesn’t matter

Dogs want attention. They make absolutely no distinction between positive and negative attention. If you’re focusing on them, they don’t care whether you’re yelling or praising. Dogs seem to be hard-wired to accept all attention from humans as rewarding. And dogs always do the thing that’s most rewarding to them.

The result is that our job as a puppy instructor rarely allows us to interact with the puppies. That’s painful because we love playing with puppies. We love it even more when they’re not our puppies to clean up after and we get to send them home with someone else.

But we don’t get to do that. We get to stand there with our arms folded, staring at the ceiling, until the instant the puppy has “four on the floor.” At first, that “Good Off!” moment only lasts an instant, and then we’re staring at the ceiling again. By the third week of class, most puppies are sitting politely when we come to say “Hello!” And the bargain is sealed. The dog gets what it wants (attention) when we get what we want (polite greetings).

Be rude if you must

So what can you do when people don’t cooperate? Advocate for yourself and for your dog. If you’re walking your puppy (or dog) and a stranger asks if they can say “Hello!” or pet your dog, you set the rules. Most people will get it if you say “Only if he sits by you.” They probably won’t notice or pay attention when the puppy pops out of position with the first touch. Then you have to step in and ask them to stop until the dog behaves again.

The frustration comes when the person doesn’t comply. “Oh, he’s fine, let me say hello.” And you’re considered a meanie if you don’t allow it. Much as you want to be kind to strangers, your dog is more important than that person’s urge to pet the puppy. Your dog, your rules. Just say “I’m sorry, but we have to go.” And do it. Then come to our classes. We’ll ignore the heck out of your puppy.

Knowing is different for dogs

Knowing is different for dogs. You’d think that once your dog knows how to do something, you’re done. But that’s not the case. It never occurred to us that people would think that was true until we got a question at our Loose-Leash Walking Workshop this weekend.

It was in the Q & A as the workshop was winding down. The dogs were exhausted after thinking for 90 minutes and the room was peaceful and quiet. One of the people auditing the workshop asked “Is this how we can introduce new people to our dog? Have them do the 3-Step Pattern Walking with our dog?”

Answer: “Absolutely not!”

Just the fact that she would ask the question made us realize it’s difficult for most to understand how intensely situational dogs are. Dogs don’t generalize. They can be taught to generalize, but it’s not naturally the way they think. So, knowing is different for dogs.

How does that work?

When people encounter a new object or circumstance, we can draw on all our past knowledge and experience to interpret the situation. For example; when babies learn how to walk and are somewhat proficient, they can walk on any surface, in any direction, regardless of slope, material, or shoes.

It’s different for dogs. Have you ever seen a dog encounter a new type of flooring and hesitate to walk on it? We saw it in action up close and personal. Fran’s first obedience dog, Golly, was accustomed to working on rubber mats or bare floors. We went to the Brussels Griffon National Specialty show and Golly was showing in Obedience. The trial was in the “Show Ring” and the flooring was bright blue artificial turf. Golly had never walked on anything like it. And, even though she knew all of the obedience exercises, she couldn’t do them in that situation. She walked as if the surface was hot coals. Needless to say, Fran got some artificial turf and all of our dogs since that day have practiced on it.

But that’s how specific dog training can be. If you are always the one training the dog, you may be the only one the dog obeys. If every member of the household plays training games with the dog, everyone has that relationship with the dog.

Dog introductions

The woman asking the questions was assuming that the dogs’ polite behavior, having learned the basics of 3-Step Pattern Walking, would be useful in a different situation – introducing her rambunctious dog to new people. It’s a perfectly logical way for a person to think. If the dog is calm and well-behaved practicing this training game, why not use the game elsewhere?

That’s too big a leap for dogs. Knowing is different for dogs. Just changing the person holding the leash makes it a completely new scenario. If that person isn’t familiar with that training game, it’s of no use. The person will feel awkward and the dog won’t know what’s going on. Faced with so many variables, the dog will get frustrated and either shut down, disengage, or misbehave.

Play different games everywhere

If you want your dog to understand how to greet people politely, no matter where you are or who you encounter, you have to teach a greeting behavior. You decide what that looks like, then teach it to your dog. And practice it everywhere. At the front door. The back door. And at the gate to the yard. In the hardware store. In the parking lot. You’re giving your dog the information they need to expand “greeting” to wherever they are, whoever you’re meeting.

There’s a saying among Obedience competitors; “We all have Obedience champions in the kitchen.” That’s exactly right. What your dog knows at home they may not know at training class. Or at a competition. Giving your dog varied experiences will grow their understanding. “Sit!” means “Sit!” no matter where you are or who’s there with you.

Is your dog training you?

How many times have you, or a dog-owning friend, joked about your dog having trained you well? Laugh all you want, but there’s a truth buried in there. Our dogs are good at training us. We just have to be better at recognizing it. If it’s something that’s cute, or good, or endearing, it’s fine to leave it alone. But if it’s something that really doesn’t work for you, it’s time to turn it around. Ask yourself, “Is your dog training you?”

It happens to all of us, especially those of us with dogs trained with positive reinforcement. Our dogs know how to push the treat button. They do something cute and they expect to be rewarded for it. And it’s difficult to resist those puppy-dog eyes.

For instance, Hope’s French Bulldog Torque thinks he ought to get rewarded whenever he sits in front of her. Even in our own yard, he’ll be watching the birds, or squirrels, and then dash over and sit right in front of her. And it worked every time. Until he started getting pushy and barked at her when she was too slow with the treats.

Like anyone, she absent-mindedly started reaching for the treat pouch, thinking “Oh, yeah. He’s sitting like a good boy.” Then she realized what was happening. Hope almost rewarded her dog for barking at her. We all know that what gets rewarded gets repeated. She could imagine a lifetime of being barked at by her very cute, but very rude dog.

Pay attention

If Hope hadn’t caught herself, she would have had the uphill battle of un-training a behavior. It’s actually easier to set and maintain performance criteria than it is to change things later.

A good example is a smart young Labrador Retriever in our Rally class. She has been rewarded often and well for lying down. Her “Down!” is excellent. It’s also her default behavior when she doesn’t understand what her person is asking. When she’s not sure what she’s supposed to do, she lies down. Which always gets her a smile and a treat from her person. That’s fine, if they’d asked for a “Down!” It’s not okay when she was asked to “Stand!” or “Stay!” or “Sit!” By rewarding a behavior they didn’t want, their dog has trained them to do what she wants.

Still the hardest part of training

The most popular tip we ever wrote was called “The hardest part of dog training.” It’s still true. The most difficult part of dog training is waiting. Waiting for your dog to do what you asked. Taking the time for them to learn to make good choices. Being patient while they think through the situation.

In our Novice Obedience competition class one of the absolutes for dogs is they must sit automatically when you come to a halt in heeling. Every single time. There are no exceptions, so an automatic sit is one of the first things we work on. In class this week the atmosphere was charged. There were major storms in the area and everybody’s phone kept blaring with weather alerts. The dogs (and the people) were all a bit unsettled.

We were doing run-throughs to simulate an actual obedience trial. One of the dogs, normally a rock-steady performer, lost her automatic sits during heeling. Her person was all ready to tell her to sit. But that’s not allowed in competition, so Hope told her to just wait. Look at the dog’s rear end and just wait. For a good 15-20 seconds (seems like a lifetime), the dog just looked at her. And then the dog remembered and sat.

Don’t let them train you

It holds true in this situation, too. If you repeat a command, help your dog, or accept less than what you wanted, ask yourself, “Is your dog training you?” Dogs are really smart and most are excellent at finding the easy way to do things. It’s easier for them to have you do the work. Ask them to step up and be your partner.

Dogs Are Binary

With absolutely nothing to do with gender identity, all dogs are binary. It’s the way they think and the way they learn. If you understand that, you can train your dog successfully.

So what do we mean by binary? Dogs don’t understand “maybe” or shades of gray. Things are either yes or no. On or off. Do or do not. There is no try. If you want to communicate to your dog, be clear. You decide the criteria and stick to it. Otherwise, you’ll just confuse your dog.

Stay Means Stay

Two behaviors where we see people waffling with criteria are stays and positions (i.e. Sit, Down, Stand).

In competition Obedience, if your dog moves anything other than their head or tail, it’s not a stay. It’s just not. Any movement of your dog’s feet isn’t a stay. Settling to rest on a hip isn’t a stay. Do you need to hold your dog to that standard? That’s up to you. If you’re fine with your dog’s “stay” being “in the general vicinity” that’s up to you.

The other part of “Stay!” that people muddy up is when the dog is allowed to stop “Staying.” The end of “Stay!” is the release word you’ve taught your dog. The one that lets them know they’re off the clock until you tell them something else to do. If your dog self-releases, that’s not a “Stay.”

To differentiate “Stay!” you may also want to teach your dog a similar behavior with different criteria. “Wait!” could mean a temporary halt, usually while you perform some task. We tell our dogs “Wait!” when we go downstairs to retrieve the laundry. We don’t care what they do once we close the door. Likewise they “Wait!” when we open the door to get the mail. Or when we open the oven so they don’t get burned.

There’s some discussion among trainers on whether to teach “Stay!” at all. Some suggest that your dog should keep doing whatever you told them until released. If you tell your dog to “Sit!” they should just keep sitting until you release them.

It’s up to you. With decades-long habits behind us, it would take more effort than it’s worth to us to stop using “Stay!” We can see the reasoning on both sides of the issue. You choose what works for you.

Be absolutely clear

For dog sports people, “Sit!” and “Down!” have very specific meanings and distinct criteria. But many people, especially in puppy classes, are so happy their dog isn’t jumping around like a nut job that they accept either one, regardless of what they asked for.

Again, it’s a case of what matters to you. If you don’t care whether your dog knows “Sit!” from “Down!,” that’s fine. But realize that your dog will never understand there’s a difference between them. It’s easy enough to teach your dog positions – a daily minute of Puppy Pushups takes care of it quickly. We recommend throwing “Stand!” into the Puppy Pushups mix. Your dog’s veterinarian and groomer will thank you for it.

Don’t fix the flubs

Say you’ve decided to get nice, clean, crisp Sits, Downs, and Stands. If you think your dog knows it, say it once and wait. As soon as they do it, reward. Five seconds later is too late. Time the reward immediately after the action.

But if you said “Sit!” and your dog went into a “Down!” they’re showing you they’re not sure what you want. Dogs need your feedback. So – Wait. Look at your dog’s butt. Wait a little longer. If the dog doesn’t do it, don’t repeat the command and don’t fall into the trap of “fixing” it. Move a couple feet away and start again.

Attempting to “fix” what the dog got wrong makes it part of the whole “Sit!” experience. If you always have to say it twice, or make a particular motion, your dog doesn’t know the word. They know the whole ritual the behavior has become; say it three times, point at their butt, get a treat and hold it up over their nose.

Keep it simple. Say (or signal) it once. If your dog doesn’t do it, start over someplace else. Commit to clarity for your dog. Remember that dogs are binary. Give them the information they need – yes/no. Off/On. Black/White.

Double down on dog training distractions

Does your dog lose focus easily? Does any sound or movement get them off their game? If that describes your dog, it’s time to double down on dog training distractions.

One of the nosiest dogs on the planet lives right here with us. Simon has to know what everybody’s doing at all times. And if it’s something he’s interested in, his brain melts out of his ears and his focus is gone. How does Fran get it back? She has the yummiest treats, the best toy, the most enthusiastic attitude. The objective is to let Simon know that what he’s supposed to be doing is more fun and more interesting than anything else happening.

Calm isn’t the answer

Like parents of newborn babies, the natural instinct is to hush everything when you’re trying to get baby to sleep or dog to focus. But that’s not real life. Babies have to learn to sleep through normal household sounds. And dogs have to learn to pay attention through everyday distractions.

You may want to limit distractions when teaching your dog a new game or behavior. When dogs don’t know what to do, many will sidetrack or disengage rather than be “wrong.” Others will start showing off all the tricks and behaviors they know, trying to figure out what you want. The initial phase of any new training game is when you want to control the environment and keep dog training distractions to a minimum.

Increase dog training distractions during familiar games

But once your dog is familiar with a new game, it’s time to let chaos reign. Today Simon’s focus and concentration was severely challenged. Fran was planning to practice the Directed Retrieve with him. In non-obedience terms, that’s where you put three gloves out, spaced pretty evenly apart, and tell the dog which one to get. They’re supposed to bring it back to you, sit in front of you, drop the glove on command, and go back to heel position when directed. It’s a complex behavior with lots of parts to train.

Take it to extremes

Simon was doing okay with it until the other dogs started squeaking their toys in their crates. Everybody gets their turn, both playing training games with their person, and waiting in their crates. Today Torque and Booker got new toys, the squeakers were still intact. That won’t be true for long, but it was today. (Simon got a new squeaky toy, too.)

As soon as the squeaking started, Simon’s head swiveled to see where it was coming from. Another squeak and he dashed over to see what the other dogs had that he didn’t. Fran ditched her plan for the session and went into “dealing with distractions” mode. We’ve talked about this before, with the “Look- Loo” game, but this is taking the game up a notch, with the squeaking.

That’s not chasing him, yelling at him, or scolding him. It’s changing what you’re doing so you’re more interesting than the distraction. As soon as Simon glanced in her direction, Fran praised him and started running away. The fastest way to get a dog to come to you is to run away from them. When he followed, she gave him multiple high-value treats, praised him, and started a very-familiar routine. In Simon’s case, he loves heeling practice, so that’s what she did. She kept her eyes glued on his face. Every time he made eye contact, she praised and rewarded.

Watch where they’re looking

Dogs are pretty easy to read. If they’re not looking at you, chances are they’re not paying attention to you. If you tell them to do something at that point, it’s probably not going to happen. We’ve seen it lots of times, especially in an exercise like the “Recall,” or “Come!” If you’re across the room and your dog is looking right at you, you can say “Come!” and they probably will. If they’re watching something else, that’s where they’ll go when you call.

That’s when you use your dog’s name before the command. If your dog doesn’t look at you, don’t continue. Go back to your dog and start over. The last thing you want to do is set your dog up for failure. You do want to work through the distraction.

With the squeaky toys, we couldn’t predict when the other dogs would make noise. To target working on Simon’s focus with a squeaker distraction, Hope picked up a toy and made noise at regular intervals. Fran was able to focus on getting eye contact with Simon and continue her 2-Minute session.

Was Simon perfect after a couple minutes? No, of course not. But he made some progress and happily played with Fran. Tomorrow’s another day to try again.