dog training the fun way Archives - Page 2 of 12

Doggy Dressage – Why Your Dog Needs Fancy Footwork

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According to the search engine that knows everything and tells all, dressage is “a classical training system that develops a horse’s balance, flexibility, and obedience to create a partnership where the horse responds to the rider’s subtle cues with harmony, confidence, and attentiveness.”

“Harmony, confidence, and attentiveness.” Wouldn’t you love to describe your relationship with your dog that way? You can get there. The recipe is simple – train in brief sessions with intense focus. Fancy footwork, like “Sideways,” “Back,” “Spin!” and even “Stomp!” parallel dressage. These tiny little behaviors zero in on small things and add up to so much more. The result is knowing how to communicate with your dog through words, motions, and actions.

Step at a time

In day-to-day life there may not be much call for doggy dressage. But it’s fun and useful for Rally or Trick Dog competition and titles. It’s also a great way to teach your dog body awareness and be sure they’re using all the muscle groups in their legs. Establishing a habit of lifelong fitness for your dog will help as they age. After all, Newton’s First Law of Motion tells us: “A body in motion tends to stay in motion.” Isn’t that what we all want, for ourselves and our dogs?

The first part of Doggy Dressage was last week’s 2-Minute Tip, “Sideways.” This week we’re going to go over a couple different ways to teach your dog “Back Up!”

Back Up!

If you already know the training game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” you have the tools in place for starting “Back Up!” If not, you should. It’s the best impulse control game we know. But don’t worry. We’ll muddle through without and jump into “Back Up!”

Sit on the floor with a bunch of treats your dog can’t get to. When your dog is in front of you, toss a treat between their front legs, aiming for the floor just under their chest. When the dog reaches down to get it, they’ll back up to get it. Say “Good Back!” or “That’s Back!” etc. Make sure they hear the word as soon as they act it out. Do it again. A single session may be about 10 treats gently thrown under the dog.

If your dog aces this and is already across the room, backwards, get them to come back by offering a palm to play “Touch!”

Most dogs take a few sessions to catch on. That’s okay. This method of teaching “Back Up!” is preferred because it’s not dependent on you moving with the dog. The dog is taking independent action and being rewarded for it. You can ultimately transition to a standing position.

Another way

The way most people teach their dogs to “Back Up!” is using a wall. Stand with the wall at your side (either side is fine) and the dog between you and the wall, facing the same way you are.

With the hand closest to the dog, hold a treat at a level with the dog’s muzzle and move it straight back, moving your feet along with the backwards motion. At first you’ll only be looking for the slightest backward motion, just a few inches. Give your dog the words “Good Back!” as they’re moving that way. Try to hang onto the treat (yes, your dog is probably nibbling your hand) until the dog has actually moved a bit back.

Gradually increase the distance “Back!” your dog goes before being rewarded. When you switch from luring to rewarding this behavior, use the same arm position to cue your dog. Please don’t flutter your hand in the dog’s face. It’s just annoying to the dog and anyone watching.

More fancy footwork ahead

We hope you’ll tune in next week for one of our favorite stupid pet tricks – the Stomp!

Your dog can control his impulses

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If you think your dog is demonstrating impulse control when they sit motionless waiting for their food, you’re wrong.

You’re also wrong if you think impulse control is greeting guests with all four paws planted on the floor.

Both of these examples are trained behaviors, not impulse control. They’re both excellent things to teach your dog. But neither teaches the dog impulse control

What is impulse control?

Simply put, impulse control is the ability to think before you act and make good choices. In the examples, the dog has no choice. They’ve been taught what to do in each scenario and they’re doing it. They’re not “choosing” to be good. They understand what they should do and do it.

Years ago it was considered good dog training to tell your dog what to do at all times and make them do it. Our first mentor in training said “Never let a dog make a decision. They’ll always make the wrong one.” Fortunately, he’s changed since then. Now we know that good dog training is teaching dogs how to make good decisions. Impulse control is at the heart of good decision-making.

Ready for anything

Trained behaviors, like waiting to be released before eating, are perfectly fine for things that happen all the time. Mealtimes probably happen about the same time, in the same place, and in the same order every day. It’s an entirely predictable sequence that both your and your dog know and one that works for you.

Impulse control is the valuable tool your dog will need when confronted with different, unexpected, and unpredictable circumstances. Dogs’ innate instincts tell them they have two options, fight or flight. Dogs taught impulse control know that their first reaction isn’t necessarily the right one.

Give them the tools

If your dog acts without thinking it’s time to teach them the skills they need to make good decisions. A good place to start is our e-book Impulse Control.

Just this week we taught the game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” to our competition Obedience class. One woman, who has a Labrador Retriever, was convinced her dog would never catch on. He continued to lick and nibble on her hand, not trying anything else. But it only took about five minutes before he got the idea. She was ready to give up after three. Impulse control training may test your patience, as well as your dog’s. But many worthwhile things in life aren’t easy.

It may not be the fastest, most entertaining training game you play with your dog. But it may prove to be the most valuable training you ever share with your dog.

Dog Training Game: What’s That?

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‘Tis the season for weird stuff to start showing up on your walks with your dog. Pretty soon (if not already) there will be inflatable, blowing-in-the-wind gigantic purple spiders on roofs attached to ginormous white webs. Eerily-lit monsters and vampires will pop up on lawns. Not to mention glowing orange pumpkins and creepy sounds emanating from unseen speakers.

As soon as your dog starts getting used to all that, it changes. Taking their place will be cheery, flashing lights and inflatable snow-people, accompanied by relentless songs of the season.

It can all be a bit intimidating and scary to your dog, especially if it’s the dog’s first rodeo. If your dog already knows the “What’s That?” game, they’ll be more likely to take it all in stride.

Getting to know stuff

Simon playing the What's That game with an umbrella

To teach your dog the “What’s That?” game, start by grabbing all kinds of stuff from around the house. Anything the dog’s never interacted with before is fair game. Try to find things that differ in size, material, texture, sound, scent – anything will do: noise-making children’s toys, aluminum containers, cardboard boxes, scented candles, metal pots with lids, umbrellas, storage bins. You get the idea.

Put your dog on leash so they can’t leave the area. Put one of the objects down and see how your dog reacts to it. If they’re curious, encourage them to get closer and check it out. Use the phrase “What’s That?” and look at it yourself.

One distinct difference between this game and the “Pick It Up” game is that the rewards come from you, as the dog is looking at you.

Timing and placement

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. When you want your dog to actually interact with the object, as in “Pick It Up,” the reward is given near or on the object. This lets the dog know “Yes, I do want you to do something with that thing.”

For “What’s That?” the goal is to get the dog to notice, but then ignore the object. It’s not a toy or a game piece. It’s not scary, but it’s not all that interesting, either.

Curious, not scared

Once the dog is calm around whatever the object is, either try with another object, or just walk away with your dog. You’re sending the message, “Nothing interesting here. Let’s move on.”

Dogs get startled by different sights and sounds. It’s okay for them to react, as long as they recover fairly quickly. Once your dog is used to hearing “What’s That?” you can use it whenever they spot something that causes a reaction. It lets them know you see it too. And you’re not impressed. If it’s no big deal to you, your dog will know they don’t have to worry about it.

Distance is your friend

When the odd decorations, lights, and sounds start appearing in your neighborhood, be ready to play “What’s That?” on your outings with your dog. You can’t get close enough to sniff the giant roof spider, but if you look at it with your dog and speak calmly, they’ll take their cue from you.

If it is something your dog can approach, go as near as your dog is comfortable and let them watch, listen to, or sniff whatever it is. When they look at you, reward and resume your walk.

If the dog’s reaction is more extreme, just move a comfortable distance away and let them watch. In time, they’ll realize it’s not a threat and relax. Move closer gradually, letting the dog adjust.

By the time the holidays arrive, your dog will take the season, with all its sounds, sights, and smells, in stride.

Dog Tricks 101

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An accomplished Obedience competitor we know once told us, rather huffily, that she doesn’t teach her dog tricks. Like it was beneath her dignity. Fast forward to now. Her current dog, a very soft and rather timid being, loves learning tricks and knows a bunch of them. When the dog wants attention doesn’t bark or paw at her mom. She “sits pretty.” And no one can resist that. Especially not her mom.

Why teach tricks? Because it’s fun! There’s no pressure to achieve anything. It creates joy for you and your dog. It not only brings the two of you closer in synch, it deepens understanding and trust between you. And, as important as any other factor, it increases your dog’s confidence. Dogs love knowing stuff. And they love knowing they know stuff.

All dog tricks fall into one of two categories:

The dog has to manipulate an object in some way.

The dog has to manipulate his/her body in some way.

Get a move on

Of the two, getting the dog to move on their own is probably easier. Luring works for getting dogs to move where and how you want them. Luring introduces the motion for everything from “Puppy Push-ups” to “Spin!” All of the dog-motion tricks start with a lure to familiarize your dog with the action.

From there, it’s a matter of practicing with a consistent name for the motion and/or a unique hand signal. Dogs can learn either or both. If you want your dog to know the verbal and movement cues separately, start with both and as your dog becomes proficient, separate words from motion. Use the verbal command sometimes, the hand signal other times. Most dogs will show a preference for one kind of signal over the other. Notice which your dog responds to more quickly and consistently.

When your dog is familiar with the trick, whatever it is, you can start “fading” the lure. Try it without holding a treat sometimes, making sure to reward your dog immediately after completing the trick. Your dog will start to understand that the reward will always be there, even if they don’t see it before they start.

Tricks with props

Without hands and opposable thumbs, dogs’ interaction with objects is more limited than people’s. But that doesn’t have to limit your imagination – or your dog’s.

If there’s a trick with objects you want your dog to learn, the process is pretty simple. Just present the object to your dog and reward the interaction you want. If your dog isn’t used to checking out new objects, it may require some patience. Even with something dogs enjoy as much as Target Training, it may take a few sessions for the dog to figure out you want them to bop it, not pick it up, chew on it, throw it around, etc.

Just be patient. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. Generally speaking, they figure out pretty quickly what gets them “paid” and what doesn’t. That doesn’t mean you can’t talk to them, encourage them, and tell them how wonderful they are. When they do figure it out, you’ll see how happy and proud they are.

Nothing in particular

If you don’t have a particular behavior or trick in mind, you can always let your dog’s actions direct the game. Like the Boxey game, if there’s no right or wrong answer, the dog has the opportunity and freedom to be creative and try new things. Your dog may create an entirely new game. Even if you and your dog are the only ones who know the rules, it’s still a game worth playing.

By all means take video of your training game learning sessions as well as the finished products. While you may want to show off your dog’s brilliance on social media, the recordings you’ll cherish most will probably be ones where you’re just starting your games and learning together. The accolades are nice, but the most precious memories will be the ones where you and your dog goofed around and had the most fun.

Practice always shows

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When we were little girls and took piano lessons, it always amazed us when our teacher knew when we hadn’t practiced. We were tone-deaf to our week-to-week improvement or lack thereof. But our teacher knew. Just like we can tell which participants in our classes play training games with their dogs. Practice always shows.

Unlike must-do homework and work projects, both piano lessons and dog training are things you do for fun and enrichment. There’s no accountability for neglecting practice. Except that you’ll never play Carnegie Hall. Or your dog will never walk politely on leash.

Just like we couldn’t tell whether we were getting better at playing the piano, you probably don’t see much difference in your dog’s behavior with a couple weeks of training games under your belt. But if you had a recording of your first time playing any training game, you’d be astonished by the difference.

Minimal investment, maximum return

The one game that most people do practice is “Puppy Push-ups.” We’re not sure if it’s because we start every class with the game, or if people (and dogs) just like it. But by the third week of class, every dog in every class we’ve ever taught is reliably understanding all three commands: Sit!, Stand!, and Down!

And yet, it seems that most people don’t even bother teaching their dogs this elementary training game. If they did, we’re pretty sure our TikTok video of it would be ignored, rather than having over a million and a quarter views.

Training games are easy to fit into your day. Focus on just one or two at a time. Figure out where you’ll probably play (near the couch, in front of the screen), stash a container of treats nearby. When a commercial starts streaming, call your dog over to play. Or just open the treat container. That should get Fido’s attention!

Pick your battles

Trainers have a saying that “Every dog is trained to their owner’s level of comfort.” It’s up to you to decide the aspects of dog behavior that are important, interesting, and fun for you and your dog. You may not care if your dog knows how to “Spin!,” so don’t bother with it. But you do want your dog to sit politely to greet guests in your home. That game moves up to the top of the list.

At the start of classes we’ll ask our students “What’s your dog’s best training game?” The answer is always the one that’s most important to that person. That’s the one they chose to play. And it’s the one their dog is best at. The practice and the proficiency go hand in hand.

Don’t complain. Train.

Dogs’ naughtiest behaviors often become the stories and anecdotes that build family legends. Like our first dog sneakily swiping a steak from the kitchen table while we were all standing there watching him. Or the auntie who darted into the bathroom as soon as you emerged to take anything/everything out of the wastebasket before her dog nabbed it.

But you don’t really want the funny stories. You want a dog who understands the rules of your household and is a full participant in family life. Pick a game. Any game. Start with one. Before you know it, you and your dog will have a concert-worthy repertoire.

What’s this game good for?

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There’s a puppy owner in Hope’s class who asks this question at the start of every single training game. Class has just begun, so we’re still on the fundamentals. Every game, at this point, has real-world application and importance. When we get farther along in the session, occasionally there will be a game that’s just for fun. That’s valid, too. Especially if it helps you see how smart and creative your dog is. And how much they enjoy playing training games with you.

Pick and choose carefully

There are a ton of training games and you should set priorities. The issues you have with your own dog are the ones you should emphasize in your training. But that doesn’t mean ignoring all the others. Change is the one constant in life. The game you may not need today may be vital in the future

One of our obedience club members pulled Hope aside last week to discuss an issue that’s recently cropped up with her dog. The dog has been through our Beginner classes and is now in Rally class. They’re at a level to compete, but the person isn’t quite ready to take that step yet.

She told Hope that her dog has recently started playing “Keep Away” when she’s getting ready for a walk before she leaves for work. The dog sees her reaching for the harness and leash and immediately gets the zoomies and plays her version of “Catch Me If You Can.”

The dog is just being naughty. She doesn’t mind the harness. She loves going on walks. But she knows that the walk is the last thing before her mom leaves for work, so she’s playing and delaying. Dogs are pretty smart that way.

That was then, this is now

Hope listened and said “That’s an easy one. Just go back and play the Collar Grab Game for a few days. She’ll be back with the program in no time.”

Her reply: “We never practiced that. I didn’t need it then.”

She’s probably right. Back when her dog lacked confidence and was afraid of the world, the dog saw her as her one safe port in the storm. She’d come whenever called. Things have changed. The dog is now happy, confident, and knows lots of stuff. But she doesn’t know the fundamental Collar Grab game because she never learned it.

That’s not as big a problem as you might think. When they were first learning dog training games, the dog knew almost nothing except how to bark and hide behind her mom. Now she knows how training games work. Games are always a chance to have fun together. And get treats. This dog is all about the treats.

There’s a game for that

Whatever your dog’s behavior issue might be, there’s a training game for that. It’s never too late to teach them. And it’s certainly never too late for them to learn. So, go back through your training notes and ask yourself, “What’s this game good for?” and see if any apply to your current situation.

When a new dog enters your life it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the mountain of things the dog needs to know. The mountain is even steeper if you’ve had the dog for a while and simply chosen to manage the things that are problematic. It’s easier to close the bathroom door than teach a dog not to rummage in wastebaskets.

That’s fine! You should always solve real problems before dealing with the little things. But when your dog has learned the basics and knows their role in the household and family, it’s time to play a little catch up.

Keep a pending file

We always say what issues games are designed to fix and explain why they’re useful. If it’s not something you currently need, but you recognize the value, just make a mental note that there’s help available.

You can always revisit training games, pick up new ones, and replay favorites, especially if when you ask “What’s this game good for?” you find one that fits. Your dog will always be up for another game, whether it’s a life lesson or something just for fun. Playing training games is an ongoing investment in your dog, keeping them happy, engaged, and well-behaved.

Movement Puzzle #1 – Vito’s Game

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What’s your absolute favorite thing about doing puzzles? It’s figuring them out for yourself. It’s not as much fun if somebody helps you, or gives you a hint.

Your dog is going to love learning movement puzzles. They’ll look forward to playing every time. Your dog will love seeing what new twists you add to their puzzles.

But it’s going to be hard on you. Probably more difficult than any other training game you’ve played with your dog. Because you’re not allowed to help.

Simple setup

There are basically two main variations of the Movement Puzzle. This week we’ll introduce the more static version. You get to sit for this one.

This thinking game / movement puzzle is called “Vito’s Game.” We were introduced to it in a video by the great dog trainer Susan Garrett of “Say Yes!” Dog training.

You need two bowls for treats, lots of treats, and an obstacle for your dog to go around. It can be anything. We generally use a five-gallon bucket or a wastebasket.

Sit on the floor with your legs crossed. Have one empty bowl at each side, near your hips. Hold the treats between your legs.

Start playing side to side

Get your dog’s attention and gently toss a treat off to your right. Then toss one to your left. This will implant the idea of going side to side in your dog’s mind. Do it a couple more times, alternating sides, and make your toss a little closer each time. For the last introductory part, drop a treat in one of the bowls at your side. Then, after your dog’s gotten that treat, drop one in the bowl on the other side.

Now’s the time to start using the bucket. Put it right up against your shins so your dog has to go around it to get to your other side. Now wait. (It’s hard, but you’ve got this.)

If your dog goes right to one of the bowls, drop a treat in it. Wait for them to go around the bucket to the other side. You can look at the empty bowl, but you can’t say anything, or tap the bowl, or give any other cue. It’s up to your dog to go around and check the other bowl. As soon as they do, drop a treat in.

When your dog is fairly reliably going side-to-side to get the treats from the bowls by your sides, start gradually moving the bucket away from you. Your dog still has to circle around the bucket, side to side, to get the treats.

Booker playing Movement Puzzle Vito's Game

Booker got it right - a treat goes in the bowl.

If your dog takes a shortcut and tries to get to the other side by taking a path between you and the bucket, don’t say anything. Just move the bucket closer and start again.

Think about it

Vito’s Game is a puzzle your dog has to solve. It’s a thinking game, something most people don’t normally expect, or require from their dogs. But good training encourages dogs to make good decisions. The dog has to figure out what they have to do to get the treats.

You may have to start from scratch the first few times you play Vito’s game. That’s okay. Your dog will get it. As long as you do your part.

Your job is to deliver treats to the bowls. That’s it. For the game to be effective, you can’t cheat. No hints, no cues, no talking, no tapping treats on the bowls, no telling your dog what to do. Let your dog find the joy in solving the puzzle.

All your dog needs is you

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We use a lot of “props” for our training games with our dogs. Mostly because it’s fun and we love stretching their ability and our own creativity. Like last week’s game, “Ring Around the Targets.” But “stuff” isn’t necessary. For training, all your dog needs is you. And treats.

There are tons of dog training games that are just you and your dog. Almost all the skills for Obedience and Rally are without any stuff. The only exceptions are at the higher levels and include jumps, cones, and dumbbells.

What it boils down to is this – there are no excuses for not playing training games with your dog. If you don’t have treats, use their food. If they eat soft food, get your hands dirty or use a spoon.

Make the time

The most-overused excuse is time. Nobody has time for much of anything these days.

That’s why we outline, in detail, how to make it easy to capture the time you need.

Training games should take just two minutes. You spend two minutes watching ads in your mobile games or streaming shows. Use the time to play with your dog – there’s even a timer.

Always be ready. Have a mixture of treats in a covered container in every room. Don’t have covered containers? Keep carry-out containers to use.

Don’t have a variety of training treats? Mix your dog’s dry food with some cereal “O’s” and popcorn. They’ll love it.

Form the habit

Good intentions fall by the wayside if they’re difficult, or inconvenient. If you make it convenient to play with your dog, you’re more likely to do it.

Make your “trail mix” of treats. Spread the containers around the house. And next time that PITA timer shows up in the corner of your screen, turn to your dog, hold out your hand, and say “Touch!”

Just start. Your dog will be delighted. And smarter. He’ll be better-behaved. And love you even more.

Maybe it’s time to switch anvil makers

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Wile E. Coyote has been trying to catch Road Runner for decades. He’s spent innumerable hours and buckets of money and nothing he tries works. And yet he persists in ordering his traps from Acme. When is it time to concede he’s put his faith and effort into the wrong thing? Agree that maybe it’s time to switch anvil makers. And how long will you stubbornly stick to something that’s not working for you and your dog?

Although its source is uncertain, we still adhere to the quote “If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always gotten.” The hardest part for many people seems to be recognizing when something’s unrecoverably broken and moving on. It doesn’t mean you give up on the behavior you’re trying to teach. It means you may have to approach it sideways instead of head-on.

Poisoning the well

Experience being the excellent teacher it is, of course we’ve “been there, done that.” Tango, Fran’s Brussels Griffon, has posed many challenges over the years. Since he’ll celebrate his 16th birthday this month, we can’t even count the vast number of lessons we’ve learned from him.

After Fran got him over being a snarling, hostile devil-dog (read Tango: Transforming my Hellhound, available on Amazon) , she was able to concentrate on more fun things like Rally, Agility, and Obedience. For unknown reasons, and Tango’s not telling, he stopped responding to his release word, which was “Go!” When he heard it, he visibly shrank and shut down.

For a short while, like most people, Fran tried to get him over the bugaboo. She loaded the word with treats, praised any slight movement, did all the right things to make “Go!” valuable and fun. Tango wasn’t having any of it.

Instead of persisting in hitting a brick wall, Fran regrouped, thought, “Maybe it’s time to switch release words,” and started from square one. She chose a new release word, “Action!” and taught it to Tango. Whatever negative association he had with “Go!” didn’t apply to the new word. They were in business once again.

Choose the easy way

Un-teaching something to a dog is difficult. If it’s attached to some negative emotion, it’s practically impossible. Dogs don’t just “get over it.” If some word, action, or place has become toxic to the dog, it’s often better to just let it go and approach from another angle.

A similar thing happened with one of our Rally students. Her two-year-old, rather skittish dog, became slinky and shut down if told to “Stand!” Nobody knows why. She was never abused, nobody hurt her after telling her to “Stand.” She’s a dog. She’ll never give us the answer.

We advised the dog’s owner to start over. Pick a different word and another hand motion to indicate “Stand!” And the dog perfected the “new” behavior in days. Does it look just like a “Stand!”? Yes, of course. Is it actually the exact same exercise? Yes, it is. But it’s different for the dog. And her opinion matters.

Train the dog in front of you

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Dogs are unique individuals. Even if every one of your dogs is the same breed, has the same lineage, and come from the same breeder, each is unique. That’s why you have to train the dog in front of you.

“But my last dog didn’t…”

“My other dog never…”

If you find yourself saying things like this, you’re not being fair to your current dog. Every dog you share your life with will bring new challenges and joys, problems and laughter. And each dog deserves to be recognized for who they are. Every dog will bring something new to your life and you’ll share a special relationship with each and every one.

Simon vs Booker

The youngest dog in our house, Simon is a six-year-old Boston Terrier. He’s the fifth Boston, the second from the same lineage. There are lots of parts that are “typical” Boston Terrier. There are also bits that are unlike any other. For one thing, he’s the smartest dog we’ve ever owned. He’s also the nosiest, and the most intense. He’s the only Boston we’ve had that doesn’t have a silly side. The dude is serious, through and through.

Training Simon is different than training his uncle, Booker, who is 12 years old. Booker has the attention span of a gnat, and rockets off on bouncing, silly, barking jags. Simon looks at him like he’s lost his mind. Simon loves practicing the same behaviors multiple times. Booker’s done after two repetitions, maximum.

Train the dog in front of you

If Fran tried to fit both Booker and Simon into the same training slot, chances are neither would be very good at anything. Honestly assessing your dog’s enthusiasm, motivation, and drive is key to successful training. Booker, the flibbertigibbet, got his Novice Obedience title (CD) back in the day when a three-minute, across-the-room “Down Stay” was the rule. He didn’t get there with rote repetition. He got there by Fran making it fun in little chunks her scatter-brained dog could absorb.

That’s training the dog in front of you. Unless you honestly assess and adapt to your dog’s unique personality, you’re in for a rough ride. Expecting your now-dog to be like your then-dog isn’t fair to either one.

Comparison is inevitable

It’s very common to compare. In some ways, it eases the pain of losing a beloved dog when you see some of their traits in another dog. It lets you reminisce and smile. Because that dog was a very good dog.

It’s okay to cherish the similarities even while you appreciate the differences. The love you had for your previous dog will never diminish. There’s no limit on love. The dog in front of you deserves the same helping of attention and love. There’s enough for every dog you’ll ever have.

One is silver and the other gold

There’s a saying in dog training that you don’t always get the dog you want, but you always get the dog you need. Every dog in your life will bring something new. A different way of looking (or sniffing) the world. We’ve had dogs who would run to smell flowers. Others paid no attention at all. One or two have watched TV. Most don’t. Some of our dogs made our yard unsafe for all wildlife. The current crew walks by the sparrows pecking in our grass.

If you’re having trouble figuring out your dog’s learning style, play a training game that relies on the dog’s initiative, like “Boxey.” Do they look to see how you react? Are they checking in with you at all?

Successful dog training isn’t necessarily having the best-behaved dog on the block. It’s building a team that understands, respects, and appreciates your partnership. Just as each dog is a distinct individual, your bond with each dog is unique. And you can be part of as many teams as you have the time and energy to enjoy. And always remember to train the dog in front of you.