Warning! Playing Dog Training Games Will Change Your Life

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A cautionary document for the unsuspecting dog owner.

We feel obliged to issue this warning for anyone contemplating a training journey. There are consequences—both intended and corollary—that will change your life forever.

Your perception of dogs will change. Your expectations will change. You will laugh. There might be crying. You will definitely have fun.

The results of 2-minute training are wide-reaching. You’ll look at neighbors and think, “They could use 3-Step Pattern Walking.” You’ll visit a friend and “fix” their dog’s jumping habit in five minutes.

You’ve been warned. Here is what to expect:


1. The “Telepathic” Velcro Bond

If you thought you were best friends before, you ain’t seen nothing yet. 2-Minute games create a learning partnership that feels like a psychic connection.

  • The Downside: If you had a “Velcro dog” before, they’ll now take residence practically inside your skin.
  • The Cost: Be prepared to buy an extra dog bed for every room, including the bathroom. If your dog is particularly dexterous, you’ll have to buy them a phone so they can text you every 10 minutes.

2. The End of “Days Off”

If you play training games right after breakfast, be prepared to play every day at precisely the same time. Even on weekends. Even on holidays.

Pro Tip: The only way to avoid your dog’s absolute devotion to the schedule is to randomize your training program.

Even then, when your dog determines “It’s time!”, prepare for incessant nagging. Don’t look them in the eye. Nothing will make you cave faster than those soulful, puppy dog eyes.

3. The “Puppy Push-Up” Chaos

You’ll have to contain your laughter when your dog’s excitement spurs them to show you every trick they know the second you ask, “Do you want to play?” It’s adorable when a dog starts doing Puppy Push-ups with no prompting. Steel yourself! If it’s not what you asked for, it doesn’t get the reward. No smiles, no laughter, and definitely no scritches.

4. The Inevitable “Brain-Dead” Days

There will be days when your dog looks at you like they’ve never heard the word “Sit!” before. You know they have. You have video evidence.

  • The Reality: Some sessions are write-offs.
  • Plan B: Play fetch instead. It’s a poor second, but some days it’s all the brains your dog’s got.

Is your addiction complete?

Your social schedule will change. 2-Minute training will change your life. You’ll realize you have more fun with your dog than most people you know. When you start thinking, “I could be home playing with my dog,” the transformation is finished. Ready to start your own “addiction”? Sign up for our 2-Minute Newsletter!

Your Face Is A Stop Sign

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Seeing your face signals your dog to stop. Don’t believe it? It’s easy to test. Invite your dog to run with you. You’re both going along together, facing the same way. If you suddenly stop and look at your dog, they’ll stop, too. And stare you in the face.

When you have a conversation with another person, it’s considered polite to look at them. Dogs are the same. Your dog always wants to see your face. 

In some ways, that’s a wonderful thing. Doesn’t everyone make funny sounds to get dogs to look? And if we get the adorable head tilt, we keep doing it.

Not always what we want

There are times, however, that you don’t want your dog to stop and look at you. You’d think that calling your dog to “Come!” is easy and natural. 

It’s not. If you’re standing still, facing your dog, and call them, they may not move an inch. They can see you, but your face is a stop sign. 

Motion triggers motion

When this happens, most people will sweep an arm back, encouraging the dog to move. It usually works. It also means that your dog doesn’t have a reliable recall. 

In Obedience competition, the rules require you to stand absolutely still when you call your dog. You can’t do any of the things that come naturally. You can’t back up a step, pat your leg, move your head. Any handler motion when a verbal command is used is considered a “double command” and not allowed.

This exercise, done correctly, demonstrates that your dog knows the word and what to do when they hear it. 

Good to know

Most people aren’t competing in Obedience. They just want their dogs to come when called. The easiest and fastest way to teach that is the Chase Recall. Your motion spurs your dog to move.

It’s true with all dog behaviors. One of the most difficult parts of “Stay!” for dogs is sitting still while you walk around. Most dogs will either swivel on their hindquarters to keep watching you, or get up entirely.

Take advantage

Knowing that your dog always wants to zero in on where you’re facing, you can use that to direct your dog’s learning. When teaching “Place!” you stare at the dog bed. Your interest in an object will make it intriguing for your dog.

That’s the principle that lots of our games are based on. The ones that involve manipulating objects start with you staring at the object. The ones that require the dog to move somewhere start with you looking there.

We tried it today. One of the behaviors we teach our dogs is to walk sideways. When facing each other, the dog’s natural tendency is to move their front legs in line with us, but their back end tends to go crooked. Today we tried the behavior looking at where we’re going (to the side) rather than at our dog. It works. 

Watch where you’re going

When we were learning agility handling, one of the first things we were taught was that dogs will follow your shoulder. They go where your shoulder indicates. If you’re running or walking straight ahead, keep your shoulders square. If you’re moving to your right, that’s where you orient your upper body. 

Your dog is attuned to every move you make and is keenly aware of your body language. If you can’t figure out why your dog is moving a certain way, check yourself. You may be giving them a signal you don’t intend. Like looking straight at them when you want them to keep moving.

Knowing Isn’t Doing: Why Your Dog Training Fails

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It’s a sinking feeling when you’re watching your dog training student get out of the car and get dragged across the street to class by her dog. Especially when it’s the last class session.

Not one to hold back, we asked Cheryl if she’d been practicing her Pattern Walking, and how the dog, Katy, was doing with it.

Imagine our surprise when Cheryl told us that Katy was really good at it. 

Next question: “Why aren’t you using it?”

Answer: “I didn’t think of it.”

Knowing and doing 

Almost every training game we teach has a practical purpose. Which we explain along with the mechanics of the game. 

None of it does any good if you don’t use it. One of the subtler goals of 2-Minute Training is for you to get in the habit of training. Just a couple of minutes, whenever you have them. Treat containers in every room. Talking to your dog, expecting them to listen and be happy to play with you.

None of it works if you don’t use it

Raise your expectations

Your dog already loves playing with you. They love those couple minutes of attention. And they’re probably using what they know, if you expect them to.

It’s all about building good habits as a dog owner. When it’s time to go for a walk, expect your dog to come and sit for their collar and leash. Until they do, nobody’s going anywhere. 

You don’t chase them around the house. You tell them what you’re doing. “Wanna go out? Good! Sit! Good! Collar!” And hold it open, ready for them to extend their neck and hold still. If you enforce the rules every single time, your dog will abide by them, every single time.

Stick to routines

Cheryl’s going to establish a routine for getting out of the car. Katy must wait for her release word to get out of the car. She has to wait for permission to go. And she has to walk politely as she’s been taught. Not pull like a tractor.

It’s totally Cheryl’s fault. If she doesn’t expect her dog to behave politely, and teach her what that means, she deserves what she gets. None of it works if you don’t use it.

Training games are designed to be fun. You’re supposed to have a good time interacting with your dog. But it’s up to you to use the games to make life with your dog easier for both of you.

Your Dog’s “Reactivity” is Just Exuberance: Time to Learn “Touch!”

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We heard from a long-time friend this week, reaching out for training after acquiring a new dog. We actually met her at our dog training club, so we know she knows how dog training works. But, like anyone with a new dog, there’s so much to teach it can get a bit overwhelming.

No matter how many dogs you’ve owned, it’s always a good idea to either take class or follow guidance from an expert. We always take new family dogs to somebody else’s class. It helps you focus on the things that are important and set your priorities.

First things first

Our friend’s new-to-her dog is a four-year-old French Bulldog retired from the show ring. We also know the breeder of the dog, so know that she’s had a great life. Her issues at the moment are pretty common for a retired show dog. She’s fine in big, noisy, crowded venues. But she has no idea how to act on a walk around the neighborhood. 

The dog is, in our friend’s words, “ is dog and people reactive when we are out in the neighborhood.” Further questions revealed that the dog is noisy and overly-excited, but not aggressive. That description could apply to at least half the dogs out there. 

Side Note: Watch your language

Unfortunately, while we’re all using the word “reactive” correctly here, it’s time to stop using it to describe your dog. The outside world interprets “reactive” as aggressive. Because the meaning has been changed, unless your dog truly is a biter or fighter, don’t use it. People hearing it, even some trainers, will make assumptions about your dog that may escalate the situation. Excitement isn’t aggression. Barking isn’t aggression. Reactivity is now synonymous with aggression.

We tell our training classes to use “excited” or “exuberant” to describe their dogs instead. It conveys joy and happiness, rather than anything darker. 

Action plan

The first training game we’re going to play with our friend’s dog is “Touch!” It’s the most useful game for getting your dog’s focus back on you and away from whatever is causing them to misbehave. Before you use it this way, the dog has to love the game. It doesn’t take long for dogs to learn it and love it. If you start today, in three days your dog will be nose-bopping like crazy.

The next part of using “Touch!” out in the wild requires a bit of effort from you. If your dog has already spotted something fascinating, it’s too late. Even if your dog adores the game, it can’t compete with squirrel watching. You have to keep scanning the area, trying to locate possible trouble spots before your dog sees them. As soon as you do, move backwards a step or so, stick out your hand and say “Touch!” The added benefit is that you start moving away from the distraction. With luck, your dog will never know they missed the bunny running across your path.

Big Dreams, Small Steps: The Secret to Dog Training

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There are big, beautiful dreams to achieve in dog training: “I want my dog to be a Rally Obedience Champion.”

There are also lovely little dreams: “I want my dog to greet my holiday guests politely.”

You and your dog can achieve whatever goals you want. Both of those dreams are achievable. The key is recognizing that every little step, every two-minute training game, is taking you closer to the prize.

Destination is motivation

Aiming for a specific goal gives you a reason to find time for training. It’s also a yardstick to measure your progress. It helps to set a deadline for yourself.

While playing training games with your dog is always fun, adding a bit of pressure to achieve a goal makes it more likely you’ll do it. Everyone’s schedule is crammed with things we have to do. It’s important to carve out some time for the things you want to do as well. 

Set up for success

Say you’re hosting a gathering in a month and want to show off your dog’s new trick – “Shake Hands.” 

The first step is planning for a few mini-training sessions every day. At your dog’s meal time, use the first five pieces of food for training treats. Set up containers of training treats everywhere in the house you spend time. Use commercial breaks, waiting for your popcorn to pop, or even bathroom breaks as training opportunities. That destination is motivation for you and your dog to keep up the short training sessions.

Unexpected benefits

Your relationship with your dog will change if you make tiny training sessions part of everyday life. They’ll listen better, be happier, and become more confident. Shared communication will improve. And you’ll make great strides in achieving both big and little dreams. 

When we start a new session of classes, we always ask our students what they hope to achieve in the class. The nebulous goal we hear most often is “a well-behaved dog.” Which looks different to everyone. Set specific goals and you’ll achieve not only that target, but the fuzzy “good dog” one as well. 

There’s no wrong way

Your dog training journey will be filled with both triumphs and hiccups. No path toward a goal is always smooth. You may even find that your original goal becomes unimportant. 

That’s all okay. Dog training, in short, fast, fun bursts, is really all about having a great relationship with your dog and having fun together. Making it a habit will benefit both of you. Your dog will get the biggest life. And you’ll have the best dog. 

Dog Training Game “Stomp”

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“Stomp!” evolved from our involvement in the Dolphin Research Center in Grassy Key, Florida. One of the cognition studies we saw in action was getting the dolphins to “imitate” what another dolphin was doing. The first dolphin was given a specific behavior to perform, like a circle spin. The second was instructed to “imitate.” The trainer never asked the second dolphin to do a circle spin, just to do what the first dolphin did.

Dog And A Dolphin

Much of modern-day dog training can be traced back to Karen Pryor’s ground-breaking book “A Dog & A Dolphin,” so we’ve always figured anything a dolphin can do, a dog can do, too.

Coming up with new training games is part planning, part evolution, and part learning to follow where the dogs lead. Sometimes it doesn’t work out. Our attempts at color discrimination haven’t panned out. Every once in a while we come up with a new idea and try it again. But it’s been shoved to the back burner.

We started thinking of ways to translate the dolphins’ imitation behavior to dogs. We’ve seen many instances where dogs learn by watching each other. And we know that our body language matters – a lot. But would they imitate us, too?

Give it a shot

Teaching our dogs to “Stomp!” was as simple as having them stand in front of us and alternately stomping our feet. At its core, it’s marching in place, with an audience of one – your dog.

As soon as they lift a paw, name it and reward it! You can call it whatever you like: March!, Stomp!, High-Stepping!. What’s crucial is the timing. It’s important to mark the behavior and immediately reward it.

That’s really all there is to the dog training game “Stomp!” Demonstrate it for your dog. Invite them to join the party. Once they understand the goal of the game, you can stretch out the rewards so they continue “Stomping!”

Copying what people do

Dogs will copy what their people do. The recent social media “Hands In Challenge” proved that dogs with little or no other training would imitate their people’s actions. Try it for yourself. The videos are mostly adorable. Whatever their dogs can do, yours can, too!

Doggy Dressage – Why Your Dog Needs Fancy Footwork

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According to the search engine that knows everything and tells all, dressage is “a classical training system that develops a horse’s balance, flexibility, and obedience to create a partnership where the horse responds to the rider’s subtle cues with harmony, confidence, and attentiveness.” 

“Harmony, confidence, and attentiveness.” Wouldn’t you love to describe your relationship with your dog that way? You can get there. The recipe is simple –  train in brief sessions with intense focus. Fancy footwork, like “Sideways,” “Back,” “Spin!” and even “Stomp!” parallel dressage. These tiny little behaviors zero in on small things and add up to so much more. The result is knowing how to communicate with your dog through words, motions, and actions.

Step at a time

In day-to-day life there may not be much call for doggy dressage. But it’s fun and useful for Rally or Trick Dog competition and titles. It’s also a great way to teach your dog body awareness and be sure they’re using all the muscle groups in their legs. Establishing a habit of lifelong fitness for your dog will help as they age. After all, Newton’s First Law of Motion tells us: “A body in motion tends to stay in motion.” Isn’t that what we all want, for ourselves and our dogs?

The first part of Doggy Dressage was last week’s 2-Minute Tip, “Sideways.” This week we’re going to go over a couple different ways to teach your dog “Back Up!”

Back Up! 

If you already know the training game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” you have the tools in place for starting “Back Up!” If not, you should. It’s the best impulse control game we know. But don’t worry. We’ll muddle through without and jump into “Back Up!”

Sit on the floor with a bunch of treats your dog can’t get to. When your dog is in front of you, toss a treat between their front legs, aiming for the floor just under their chest. When the dog reaches down to get it, they’ll back up to get it. Say “Good Back!” or “That’s Back!” etc. Make sure they hear the word as soon as they act it out. Do it again. A single session may be about 10 treats gently thrown under the dog. 

Back up from a standing position.

If your dog aces this and is already across the room, backwards, get them to come back by offering a palm to play “Touch!” 

Most dogs take a few sessions to catch on. That’s okay. This method of teaching “Back Up!” is preferred because it’s not dependent on you moving with the dog. The dog is taking independent action and being rewarded for it. You can ultimately transition to a standing position.

Another way

The way most people teach their dogs to “Back Up!” is using a wall. Stand with the wall at your side (either side is fine) and the dog between you and the wall, facing the same way you are. 

With the hand closest to the dog, hold a treat at a level with the dog’s muzzle and move it straight back, moving your feet along with the backwards motion. At first you’ll only be looking for the slightest backward motion, just a few inches. Give your dog the words “Good Back!” as they’re moving that way. Try to hang onto the treat (yes, your dog is probably nibbling your hand) until the dog has actually moved a bit back. 

Gradually increase the distance “Back!” your dog goes before being rewarded. When you switch from luring to rewarding this behavior, use the same arm position to cue your dog. Please don’t flutter your hand in the dog’s face. It’s just annoying to the dog and anyone watching. 

More fancy footwork ahead

We hope you’ll tune in next week for one of our favorite stupid pet tricks – the Stomp!

Your dog can control his impulses

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If you think your dog is demonstrating impulse control when they sit motionless waiting for their food, you’re wrong. 

You’re also wrong if you think impulse control is greeting guests with all four paws planted on the floor. 

Both of these examples are trained behaviors, not impulse control. They’re both excellent things to teach your dog. But neither teaches the dog impulse control

What is impulse control?

Simply put, impulse control is the ability to think before you act and make good choices. In the examples, the dog has no choice. They’ve been taught what to do in each scenario and they’re doing it. They’re not “choosing” to be good. They understand what they should do and do it.

Years ago it was considered good dog training to tell your dog what to do at all times and make them do it. Our first mentor in training said “Never let a dog make a decision. They’ll always make the wrong one.” Fortunately, he’s changed since then. Now we know that good dog training is teaching dogs how to make good decisions. Impulse control is at the heart of good decision-making.

Ready for anything

Trained behaviors, like waiting to be released before eating, are perfectly fine for things that happen all the time. Mealtimes probably happen about the same time, in the same place, and in the same order every day. It’s an entirely predictable sequence that both your and your dog know and one that works for you.

Impulse control is the valuable tool your dog will need when confronted with different, unexpected, and unpredictable circumstances. Dogs’ innate instincts tell them they have two options, fight or flight. Dogs taught impulse control know that their first reaction isn’t necessarily the right one.

Give them the tools

If your dog acts without thinking it’s time to teach them the skills they need to make good decisions. A good place to start is our e-book Impulse Control. 

Just this week we taught the game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” to our competition Obedience class. One woman, who has a Labrador Retriever, was convinced her dog would never catch on. He continued to lick and nibble on her hand, not trying anything else. But it only took about five minutes before he got the idea. She was ready to give up after three. Impulse control training may test your patience, as well as your dog’s. But many worthwhile things in life aren’t easy.

It may not be the fastest, most entertaining training game you play with your dog. But it may prove to be the most valuable training you ever share with your dog.

Dog Training Game: What’s That?

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‘Tis the season for weird stuff to start showing up on your walks with your dog. Pretty soon (if not already) there will be inflatable, blowing-in-the-wind gigantic purple spiders on roofs attached to ginormous white webs. Eerily-lit monsters and vampires will pop up on lawns. Not to mention glowing orange pumpkins and creepy sounds emanating from unseen speakers. 

As soon as your dog starts getting used to all that, it changes. Taking their place will be cheery, flashing lights and inflatable snow-people, accompanied by relentless songs of the season.

It can all be a bit intimidating and scary to your dog, especially if it’s the dog’s first rodeo. If your dog already knows the “What’s That?” game, they’ll be more likely to take it all in stride.

Getting to know stuff

Simon playing the What's That game with an umbrella

To teach your dog the “What’s That?” game, start by grabbing all kinds of stuff from around the house. Anything the dog’s never interacted with before is fair game. Try to find things that differ in size, material, texture, sound, scent – anything will do: noise-making children’s toys, aluminum containers, cardboard boxes, scented candles, metal pots with lids, umbrellas, storage bins. You get the idea. 

Put your dog on leash so they can’t leave the area. Put one of the objects down and see how your dog reacts to it. If they’re curious, encourage them to get closer and check it out. Use the phrase “What’s That?” and look at it yourself.

One distinct difference between this game and the  “Pick It Up” game is that the rewards come from you, as the dog is looking at you.

Timing and placement

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. When you want your dog to actually interact with the object, as in “Pick It Up,” the reward is given near or on the object. This lets the dog know “Yes, I do want you to do something with that thing.”

For “What’s That?” the goal is to get the dog to notice, but then ignore the object. It’s not a toy or a game piece. It’s not scary, but it’s not all that interesting, either.

Curious, not scared

Once the dog is calm around whatever the object is, either try with another object, or just walk away with your dog. You’re sending the message, “Nothing interesting here. Let’s move on.”

Dogs get startled by different sights and sounds. It’s okay for them to react, as long as they recover fairly quickly. Once your dog is used to hearing “What’s That?” you can use it whenever they spot something that causes a reaction. It lets them know you see it too. And you’re not impressed. If it’s no big deal to you, your dog will know they don’t have to worry about it.

Distance is your friend

When the odd decorations, lights, and sounds start appearing in your neighborhood, be ready to play “What’s That?” on your outings with your dog. You can’t get close enough to sniff the giant roof spider, but if you look at it with your dog and speak calmly, they’ll take their cue from you. 

If it is something your dog can approach, go as near as your dog is comfortable and let them watch, listen to, or sniff whatever it is. When they look at you, reward and resume your walk.

If the dog’s reaction is more extreme, just move a comfortable distance away and let them watch. In time, they’ll realize it’s not a threat and relax. Move closer gradually, letting the dog adjust.

By the time the holidays arrive, your dog will take the season, with all its sounds, sights, and smells, in stride.

Dog Tricks 101

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An accomplished Obedience competitor we know once told us, rather huffily, that she doesn’t teach her dog tricks. Like it was beneath her dignity. Fast forward to now. Her current dog, a very soft and rather timid being, loves learning tricks and knows a bunch of them. When the dog wants attention doesn’t bark or paw at her mom. She “sits pretty.” And no one can resist that. Especially not her mom.

Why teach tricks? Because it’s fun! There’s no pressure to achieve anything. It creates joy for you and your dog. It not only brings the two of you closer in synch, it deepens understanding and trust between you. And, as important as any other factor, it increases your dog’s confidence. Dogs love knowing stuff. And they love knowing they know stuff. 

All dog tricks fall into one of two categories:

The dog has to manipulate an object in some way.

Or

The dog has to manipulate his/her body in some way.

Get a move on

Of the two, getting the dog to move on their own is probably easier. Luring works for getting dogs to move where and how you want them. Luring introduces the motion for everything from “Puppy Push-ups” to  “Spin!” All of the dog-motion tricks start with a lure to familiarize your dog with the action.

From there, it’s a matter of practicing with a consistent name for the motion and/or a unique hand signal. Dogs can learn either or both. If you want your dog to know the verbal and movement cues separately, start with both and as your dog becomes proficient, separate words from motion. Use the verbal command sometimes, the hand signal other times. Most dogs will show a preference for one kind of signal over the other. Notice which your dog responds to more quickly and consistently. 

When your dog is familiar with the trick, whatever it is, you can start “fading” the lure. Try it without holding a treat sometimes, making sure to reward your dog immediately after completing the trick. Your dog will start to understand that the reward will always be there, even if they don’t see it before they start. 

Tricks with props

Without hands and opposable thumbs, dogs’ interaction with objects is more limited than people’s. But that doesn’t have to limit your imagination – or your dog’s. 

French Bulldog and Target Training

If there’s a trick with objects you want your dog to learn, the process is pretty simple. Just present the object to your dog and reward the interaction you want. If your dog isn’t used to checking out new objects, it may require some patience. Even with something dogs enjoy as much as Target Training, it may take a few sessions for the dog to figure out you want them to bop it, not pick it up, chew on it, throw it around, etc.

Just be patient. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. Generally speaking, they figure out pretty quickly what gets them “paid” and what doesn’t. That doesn’t mean you can’t talk to them, encourage them, and tell them how wonderful they are. When they do figure it out, you’ll see how happy and proud they are.

Nothing in particular

If you don’t have a particular behavior or trick in mind, you can always let your dog’s actions direct the game. Like the Boxey game, if there’s no right or wrong answer, the dog has the opportunity and freedom to be creative and try new things. Your dog may create an entirely new game. Even if you and your dog are the only ones who know the rules, it’s still a game worth playing.

By all means take video of your training game learning sessions as well as the finished products. While you may want to show off your dog’s brilliance on social media, the recordings you’ll cherish most will probably be ones where you’re just starting your games and learning together. The accolades are nice, but the most precious memories will be the ones where you and your dog goofed around and had the most fun.