Tag: dog training made fun

Stop Your Dog from Jumping on People

It’s really cute when puppies jump up to get attention. It’s not cute anymore when the dog grows up and isn’t a cute, tiny puppy any more. So how do you stop your dog from jumping on people? 

Cry for attention

How do you stop a dog from jumping on you?
A dog jumping on you is a plea for attention.

Dogs don’t generally just jump for joy. When they’re so full of energy they just can’t contain themselves, jumping up and down isn’t the usual behavior. Instead, they’ll get the “zoomies” and run like crazy. If your house, like ours, has a circular path, they’ll make it into a race track. And you’d best just stay out of the way until the zoomies run out.

Jumping, especially on people, is a plea for attention. And the best way to get it to stop is by ignoring it. Which, we freely admit, is easier said than done. 

In Hope’s Beginning Obedience/Puppy classes, dogs will often jump on her as she approaches. We don’t know if you can tell from our videos, but she’s not a big person. She’s about five-foot-nothing tall, and not incredibly substantial. In one session, there was a lovely, 50+ lb. Lab puppy named Gus who adored jumping on Hope and grabbing the mask off her face. On his hind legs, Gus is about the same height as Hope, so her mask was well within reach. It’s worth noting that he really is a very nice dog – he never snagged anything but the mask.

Be prepared

Knowing when your dog is likely to jump on someone, and what circumstances trigger the behavior, is key in stopping it. Set up the situation and be prepared. 

In this case, Hope had Gus’s people keep hold of his leash until she braced herself and was ready for his enthusiasm. Then she told them to release enough slack for Gus to reach her, but not go past. Gus grabbed the mask again, but Hope did nothing. She didn’t move, didn’t play “tug” with the mask, didn’t look at him, didn’t pay any attention to him. She looked past Gus at his people. And had to tell them repeatedly not to react.

And, after a few seconds of acting the fool, Gus got all four feet on the ground. Immediately, Hope told him what a good boy he was and started petting him. Which triggered his jumping. 

Hope instantly returned to braced-statue mode. No reaction whatsoever. And Gus got all four feet on the ground. Which earned him the praise and attention he wanted. 

Instant gratification

Timing is important in teaching dogs. If the lesson is “don’t jump on people” there has to be a visible difference. Jump = no attention. No jumping = praise, treats, and attention.

We’ve often said that doing nothing is, by far, the hardest part of dog training. (“The hardest part of dog training“) If you pay attention to behaviors you don’t want, you’re encouraging that behavior. If you remove that attention, the dog has no reason to continue the behavior – it’s not working for him.

Dogs always give you more of the behavior you focus on. If you repeatedly say “off, get off, no jump” it’s paying attention to the behavior. It works much better to emphasize when your dog is doing something you want. Instant praise, treats, or a game of tug will tell your dog he’s being “good,” that you like what he’s doing, and he’ll get more attention with this good choice.

Making good choices

Everyone, dogs included, is sufficiently selfish to do what works best. If jumping on people results in attention, even if it’s “No, No, bad dog,” it’s working. Dogs don’t discriminate between negative and positive attention. To your dog, anytime you focus on them, it’s a good thing. 

If you ignore the behavior you don’t want, your dog has no reason to continue doing it. The dog’s behavior isn’t working, so they stop doing it. 

If your dog is jumping on someone, have them stand like a statue. Fold their arms across their chest and stare at the ceiling. It may take some repetitions, but your dog will learn that jumping gets them nothing they want. Dogs particularly hate it when you don’t look at them. So make a point of looking away.

Flip side

The other side of the coin has to be just as fast and clear. If the dog has all four feet on the ground, meet their eyes, praise them mightily, and give treats, pets, toys. For as long as the good behavior lasts. Be ready to stop in mid-word if the jumping starts. 

It may take some time for the lesson to sink in. Each time the dog gets the same message, the “right” choice penetrates deeper into their personality. By the end of the class session, Gus sat whenever Hope came over to see him. Good boy, Gus!

Looky-Loo Part II (Dog Training Game)

Looky-Loo is a dog training game that reminds your dog that the two of you are a team, doing things together. It lets dogs be dogs – investigating their surroundings, being aware of the world around them. While always maintaining a “check in” mentality. The fun continues as long as your dog remembers to “check in” with you.

This applies whether you’re out for a meandering walk around the neighborhood or running a competition agility course. The invisible connection between you and your dog is an important part of your relationship. In unfamiliar circumstances, or if your dog’s unsure, your demeanor when your dog checks in will help determine how interactions proceed.

Next step in Looky-Loo

In the first phase of Looky-Loo you held a toy or other object behind your back, showed it to your dog briefly while saying “Look!”, and then hide it again. When your dog looked at your face, rather than for the toy, you clicked and rewarded. After just a few sessions, your dog should realize the object of the game is to focus on you.

The next step is to keep the toy visible. Only say “Look!” once when you first show it. If it’s a particularly desirable toy, it may take a while until your dog remembers to focus on you. As soon as they do, click and reward. The reward can be a treat or even a game of tug with the “Look!” toy. Focusing on you has to be the most rewarding part of the game. The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you, not at the object.

Timing is important

The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you. That’s the goal of “Looky-Loo.” Getting your dog to return his/her gaze to you after something distracting happens. (See last week’s tip: Looky-Loo Part 1.) It’s not the end of the world if your timing is off sometimes. It happens to everyone. When it does, and it will, give your dog an “Oops! Cookie” and reset the game. Just keep the goal in mind and watch your dog’s eyes. 

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. Some people, playing attention games, even start holding the treat by their noses to bring their dog’s focus up to their eyes. That lures the dog to look at their face, rather than rewarding the dog’s decision to watch. “Watch me!” is a phrase you might hear a lot in dog training classes. It works sometimes. It doesn’t teach the dog that watching is more interesting than that speck on the floor. 

Upping the game

The next step, before you take “Looky-Loo” out on the road, is to get your dog to look at distractions in the environment and still choose to look at you. Rather than holding the object, it will be on the floor where you’ll be passing by it. 

It’s time to move the game someplace where you have space to move a few steps and place a distracting object to the side. Place an object that isn’t very interesting to your dog on the floor. Holding the dog’s leash, try to walk by the object, saying “Look!” Keep walking, and when your dog’s focus is on you, click and reward. If the dog’s attention stays on the object, go back to the last step, using the same object. Your dog will let you know when they’re ready to move on, or if it’s not quite time.

Fran and Simon have a variation of Looky-Loo:

Moving on

Remember, there’s no timetable for dog training games. Dogs learn at their own pace. And some games go more slowly than others. If your dog is extremely curious, this may be a tough one for them.

The next steps would be to change the object used as a distraction. We started our Looky-Loo dog training game with something that the dog didn’t really care about. Make the distraction more desirable in gradual steps. Work your way up to things that your dog loves. Can your dog still “Look!” and come back to you? What if it was a favorite toy? Or a bowl of food?

Taking it to the streets

When your dog is fairly proficient at “Look!” and focus, it’s time to move the game to places you may actually need it. When you do, start the game with a quick reminder of where the game began – hide an object behind your back, show it briefly while saying “Look!” and hide it again. Just a quick refresher helps the dog know what game you’re playing.

Simon is distracted - we need to take a step back in the Looky-Loo dog training game.
Time to go back a step in the “Looky-Loo” dog training game…

When you’re out and about, you can make anything the subject of “Looky-Lou!” Just tell your dog to “Look!,” whether it’s a squirrel, a person walking, or a dog being walked in the distance. When your dog looks back at you, click and reward. 

Be ready

Your dog is learning to gauge their reaction to “stuff” by your response. Stay calm, tell your dog to “Look!” and wait for them to pay attention to you. Be sure you’re watching your dog’s face so you can tell the exact moment their focus is on you. Be more excited by your dog watching you! That’s the tremendous accomplishment – celebrate it with enthusiasm!

Dog Training Game: Looky-Loo (Part 1)

Dogs are nosy creatures. Some are almost obsessive in their curiosity about what’s “over there.” You can indulge your dog and still maintain focus with the dog training game Looky-Loo!

Torque can play "Looky-Loo" and look at things he hears, then turn his focus back to Hope.
Torque can look around at things he hears, then turn his focus back to Hope.

Realistically, none of us lives on a solitary island. Our dogs, whether they’re just walking around the neighborhood or competing in dog sports, need to be familiar with their surroundings. That means being able to look around, take in the sights and smells around them, be calm, and get on with what they were doing. (We talked about this earlier, in our article, “Be Better Than Squirrel!“)

That’s the crucial part. The dog has to take in his/her surroundings without reacting negatively. Seeing, recognizing, and bringing attention back to “business.”

Looky-Loo set up

Like all 2-Minute-Training games, it starts in a quiet space with no distractions. Dogs have to learn how to play this new game before introducing distractions.

What you’ll need: 

Training timer 
Your dog on leash and collar
Treats
An object / toy your dog likes, small enough for you to hold easily
Clicker (Optional, but recommended

Playing Looky-Loo:

Session 1 – Set your timer for 2 Minutes. Turn it on. Stand with your dog close in front of you. If your dog doesn’t have a decent “stay,” step on the leash. (Note: the leash should be long enough so your dog can stand up, sit, lie down, or move around, but not leave the area). Facing your dog, hold the toy in one hand behind your back. Swing the toy out so your dog can see it, say “Look!” and hide the toy behind you again. If your dog looks at your face, click and reward. 

That’s it for the first session. You’re teaching your dog to look, then return focus to you. Looking at you is the goal of the game. Imagine how much better life would be if your dog looked at that squirrel, then back at you? And then calmly continued on your walk?

Keep in mind:

Some dogs will understand and start immediately looking at you after glancing at the object. Other dogs may take a while to get it. That’s okay. Stay at the first step as long as you need to for reliable understanding. When your dog gets it right about 75 percent of the time, then it’s time to move on. 

Your dog glancing at the “look” object is good. We want our dogs to see what’s around them. But it’s not the point of the game. Dogs look at stuff, especially moving stuff. We expect the dog to look at the toy when we show it. 

The objective of the game is bringing the dog’s attention back to you after the toy disappears again. That’s when the click and reward come – when your dog’s eyes meet yours. 

Next week: Looky-Loo Part II

Show off your dog tricks

There are lots of reasons to train your dog to do tricks (see last week’s tip and our earlier article: Dog trick training – how to & why!), but once your dog knows them – what do you do with dog tricks?

Saved for posterity

Booker knows a lot of dog tricks. He and Fran have earned titles showing them off.
Booker knows a lot of dog tricks. He and Fran have earned titles showing them off.

These days, there are lots of options. Impress your friends, family, and the all those eyes on social media with your videos. Entertain everyone at any in-person gatherings. And maybe best of all – have your partnership with your dog permanently part of history by achieving a title for your dog.

What’s a “title” anyway?

Most people have heard of the American Kennel Club (AKC), maybe having seen a dog show on television. What many don’t realize is that the AKC is a registry – it keeps track of everything dog for all AKC events. And while your dog may not have a fancy pedigree – “all-American” dogs (mixed breeds) are welcome in all the dog events except the “beauty pageants” (conformation).

Those events include something for every dog person – Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Therapy, Lure Coursing, and more. Most relevant to this column? “Trick Dog.”

Yes, your dog can earn a title for performing tricks on video. And you don’t have to go anywhere! The AKC accepts video submissions. All the details are available on the website: https://www.akc.org/sports/trick-dog/about-trick-dog/

Dog tricks galore

The 10 tricks your dog needs to perform for the Novice Title are probably things they already do – or can easily learn in just a few 2-Minute sessions. Things like spin, or hold something for three seconds, jump through a hoop, kiss, shake hands, etc. Your dog can do any of that!

And aside from the certificate you’ll get to acknowledge your dog’s achievement, there’s an intangible extra that matters.

As long as the AKC exists, your partnership with your dog will be part of history. Anyone ever looking at the history of your breed, or Trick Dogs, will know that you and your dog were part of a team. 

It matters

Forever after, there is a record of what a good dog you have. How you had fun together and respected each other. You learned together and became a team that was able to accomplish more than 99 percent of dog owners. Because you cared about each other, played together, learned to adapt to each other. 

And you had fun doing it. 

Don’t fix your dog. Start over!

Don’t fix your dog. It’s probably not worth the effort. Instead, reimagine and start over!

In our “throw away” society, we’re used to the fact that it’s often better to buy something new than fix the old, broken thing. We’re not debating the merits of renew, reuse, recycle. We’re tree-huggers from way back. But in this case we’re looking at the issue from a strictly economic point of view. It makes no sense to pay for an appliance repair that costs more than half the price of a new unit. 

Dogs, however, are not things. They are not disposable. Our commitment to our dogs is based on emotion, not economics. Our dogs are worth the investment of our time and energy to “fix” the things that aren’t working. But instead of changing what’s already there – we’re going to reimagine and reinvent. Don’t fix your dog. Start over!

New is easier

When it comes to dog training, it’s much easier to teach your dog something new than to change an already-ingrained behavior. Habit is one of the most powerful forces in the universe and it’s tough to change. Our own habits, as well as our dogs’. But, with patience and consistency, it can be done. We talked about patience just last week with Dogs need processing time, too!

Don't fix your dog. Start over. Fran had to re-teach Tango's release cue. She didn't fix the old one, she started over with Tango's release.

Let’s talk about Tango, Fran’s now-12-year-old Brussels Griffon. He came with a myriad of issues, including overt aggression toward both people and dogs, documented in Fran’s book, Tango: Transforming My Hellhound. 

Once Tango turned the corner and was able to participate in dog sports, Fran faced an entirely different situation with him. When playing agility, both in training and in competition, Tango wouldn’t move off the start line. His “release cue” – the signal that “stay” was over and it was time to move – was broken. 

Try and try again

Fran went back to the basics of the stay and release training games. Multiple sessions with no substantial change. Tango just wasn’t responding to his long-established “go” command. 

Rather than continue in the frustrating cycle, we realized the word Fran was using had, somehow, become permanently tainted in Tango’s mind. We don’t know what caused it, or how it happened. He’s a dog. He’ll never be able to explain it. 

We fixed it by starting over. Fran chose a new word, “action,” instead of “go.” She started at the very beginning. And it worked.

Avoiding the issue

No, we didn’t fix the problem. But we found a way to work around it and made it go away. It’s much easier to try something new than to fix the broken thing, with dogs as well as appliances. Keep the dog. Toss the training that’s not working. Craft a new game to teach the “right” way to do whatever it is. 

It’s always easier to teach a dog a new skill instead of changing an old habit. Whatever your dog’s annoying behavior is, try to think about it in a different way and devise a new approach to an old problem. Don’t fix your dog. Start over! Try a different approach to the issue.

Creativity is tough

In Tango’s case it was pretty simple, just teaching a different word for a behavior he already knew. The majority of dog training is building our dogs’ vocabularies and pairing those words with actions. Most dogs really want to do what you ask. They just may not understand what it is.

That’s why training games work. In short, focused sessions you can concentrate on a single word/action and phenomenally increase your connection and understanding with your dog.

Dogs need processing time, too!

Dogs need processing time, too!

When you’re having a conversation with someone and they say something unexpected, you need a moment to switch gears. That’s what we mean by processing time. Dogs need processing time, too. A chance to let the information flow from ears, to brain, to action.

Not their native language

Remember when you’re playing dog training games – English isn’t your dog’s first language. Just like any non-native speaker, it may take a moment to translate, understand, and respond. It’s perfectly normal.

Torque starts with a sit on the stool. He needs processing time when Hope asks for a different position.

Every other day, Hope’s French Bulldog Torque does his physical fitness routine of squat, crouch, sit, and stand (in a random order) across a four-inch-high stool. Each of those instructions describes a very specific action.

  1. Squat means step off the front of the stool with your front paws and bend your back legs into sit position.
  2. Crouch is step off the back of the stool and bend your back legs into a sit position.
  3. Sit means sit with your whole self on the stool.
  4. Stand means stand, all four feet on the stool.

Each time they do this routine, Hope can tell how focused Torque is by how quickly he responds to the various commands. Some days, he’s sharp as a tack and instantly moves smoothly from one position to another.

Other days? We say he “doesn’t have his ears on” when he reacts like he’s never heard the word “sit” before. He has. Millions of times.

Processing time

Most days, however, it takes a beat or two. Torque hears the word and you can almost see the cogs meshing as he processes the information. He gets the time he needs to think it through.

Most people want their dogs to succeed, so they jump in to “help” whenever their dogs seem slow to respond. What the dog learns is to wait and let “mom” do the work. 

Like many people, dogs are essentially lazy. If someone wants to do the task for them, most dogs are more than happy to let them. The more you “help” your dog, the more helpless they become. Instead, try giving them time to process and get it right, 

Tough to remember

Being patient and just waiting is really hard. How long do you wait before you repeat the command? How long is long enough?

The answer depends on the dog and you. The best way to tell is to watch your dog and see if he/she is still trying and thinking, or if they’ve checked out on the task. 

When dogs don’t understand what’s being asked, they tend to look for ways to escape.  Wandering away, looking away, barking, jumping, scratching, are all ways dogs have of telling us they don’t know. They’re confused and uncomfortable. 

If you consistently get this reaction for a particular game, go back to an earlier step in the training. Even if it’s back to the beginning – that’s okay. Sometimes we all need refreshers on stuff we used to know.

Learning a foreign language

Your dog is learning a foreign language. Just like people, younger dogs tend to learn faster than adult dogs. It doesn’t mean that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. 

It just means they need a bit more time to process. Translating what you say into actions they perform is a small miracle our dogs achieve each and every day. It’s no wonder dogs need processing time. Give it to them.

Top 10 tips for dog training

End of Session

Booker and his dog training school essentials. We used the Top 10 tips for dog training with Booker at school.
Booker’s first day of school – long ago. The Top 10 tips for dog training came in handy!

This week marks the end of the first session of in-person dog training classes in 18 months. Our Beginner students have come so far, and we’re so proud of them. We developed this list of Top 10 Tips for dog training to remind them of things we’ve worked on. It’s hard to take notes when you’re supposed to be paying attention to your dog!

The Top 10:

  1. Focus on your dog for the entire training session. Your dog gets all your attention the entire time. Just as you don’t want your dog to misbehave, you don’t want to miss any “good stuff” that should be rewarded. If “good” looks the same as “naughty,” the devil will win every time. 
  2. Keep it short, fast, and fun. Dog training isn’t an endurance event. Both your and your dog’s attention spans are limited. (See #1.) That’s why we call it 2-Minute-Training. Two minutes at a time may be too short – but 15 minutes is too long for most dogs. Neither one of you can or should maintain intense focus for that long.
  3. Ignore the stuff you don’t like. The more attention you pay to barking, mouthing, jumping, biting, etc. the more your dog will do it. Your dog thinks you’re playing the game. Dogs don’t distinguish between “bad” and “good” attention. They just know you’re engaging with them, which they love.
  4. Pay your dog. Every single time. Especially when they’re just learning. If you worry about your dog getting fat from an abundance of treats – use their meals as training treats. There’s nothing special about dog food in a bowl. Dog food from your hand makes it very special! (You might enjoy the article about your dog’s reward bank.)
  5. When you are in motion with your dog, always reward from the hand closest to the dog. If your dog crosses in front of you to get the treat, they will trip you. It will hurt.
  6. Do not repeat commands. If your dog doesn’t understand “Sit!,” they’re not going to understand “sit, sit, sit, Sit, SIt, SIT, SIT!” If they don’t do it the first time, either you don’t have the dog’s attention, or the dog doesn’t understand the word. 
  7. Build your dog’s vocabulary. Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. Your job is to teach those words. When you are teaching a new word, like “bed!,” stand by the bed, look at the bed, and when the dog shows interest in the bed say “good bed!” and throw a treat in the bed. Repeating the word pairs the object (or action) with its name. Infants learn language through constant repetition, even before they’re verbal. Dogs can learn the same way.  
  8. If you’re in a bad mood, angry with your dog, frustrated, or cranky it’s not a good time for a training session. The only exception is if training your dog is your happy place and you can put everything else aside for the 2-Minute session. 
  9. There’s no such thing as too many training sessions. If you want to play training games with your dog for two minutes every hour – go for it! More is better in this case. Try to get in at least one or two sessions every day. If you don’t have two minutes to play with your dog most days, you shouldn’t have a dog.
  10. Don’t hurt your dog. There’s no popping the leash, pushing on hips, choking of dogs in positive reinforcement training. We are teaching our dogs how to make good choices. Dogs should approach every training game session with joy and anticipation. Tails should be wagging. 

Bonus: Beginner Training Games:

The hardest part of dog training

What do you think is the hardest part of dog training?

There are lots of possibilities; timing, coordination, remembering, getting focus, carving out the time to play training games. But all of those are just a matter of practicing. They all get easier with experience. The more training games you play with your dog, the better you get at it.

The “Winner” is

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing. It’s standing like a statue, not saying anything, not doing anything, while your dog acts a fool. She’s barking, jumping, biting at the leash. 

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing when your dog is misbehaving.

If you’re in public, it’s embarrassing and you want to make her stop. If you’re at home, it’s still annoying and you want her to knock it off.

The best thing you can do is stand there, hands folded, silent. When her little temper tantrum wears off, she’ll probably remember that sitting quietly gets her the attention, and reward, that she wants. It can be annoying, frustrating, even infuriating, to wait for that moment. But it’s worth it.

Let the dog decide

If we “make” our dog behave, by holding their collar or tightening the leash, we’re giving them exactly what they want – our complete attention. We’re reacting to them, instead of waiting for them to choose better and get rewarded for good behavior. Waiting for your dog to “see the light” can be a painful process. But it’s worth it. We teach our dogs how to get what they want, instead of letting the dog manipulate us.

It’s really, really hard not to snatch your hand away when your dog starts nibbling at it to get the treats. (The “Whatcha gonna do?” game in Book 4: Impulse Control.) But the motion of lifting your hand looks, to your dog, like you’re engaging in the game he chose. Yelling at your dog for barking is “playing” the barking game, seen from the dog’s perspective.

Think, don’t react

Doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But sometimes it’s the only way to show our dogs how to choose better. Pay close attention to your own reactions to your dog’s silly/obnoxious behaviors. Are you inadvertently encouraging it? Do you engage with your dog when he’s acting the fool? 

Try ignoring it, instead. If he’s really being obnoxious, walk away. If he persists, go into the bathroom and lock him out. When he quiets down and his brain engages again, reward it! Play a rowdy game of tug, or fetch! Play on your terms, not when your dog dictates.

Right and wrong are different

Show your dog what right and wrong look like. Right should be full of energy, treats, toys, play, and fun. Wrong should be dull. Not nearly as much fun as being good.

As soon as your dog chooses wisely, reward, reward, reward! Making good choices is the foundation of game-based dog training. Love it when you see it!

How to get your dog to calm down and relax

It’s the very first thing we “work” on with puppies – get your dog to calm down. Just like human children, puppies don’t really know when they’re over-tired. They’ll fight taking a nap, just like a toddler. You can watch their eyelids droop, but they just won’t relax. As they get more and more tired, puppies can get increasingly frantic. And your frustration grows. The dog needs to nap. And you need to grab a shower and a meal!

Puppies are little tyrants. If you allow it, they’ll take over every aspect of your life and schedule. They’re selfish little beasts, only caring about their own needs and wants. 

Frankly, if puppies weren’t so adorable your heart melts, there’d be no excuse for them.

Start with the basics

“Sit and accept praise” is one of the very first behaviors we teach with a new dog or puppy in the house. When the new addition gets you up at four in the morning and, after a potty break, decides it’s play time, you need a way of letting him/her know that’s not the way it’s going to be. 

Many trainers would have you stuff the puppy in the crate, maybe even cover it, and wrap a pillow over your head to muffle the complaints. The ear-piercing, howling misery. 

But we’re not believers in letting a dog or puppy cry itself into exhaustion. The dog doesn’t learn anything from that. Even at four in the morning, it’s time for a session of “Sit And Accept Praise.”

Not the most fun training game

Our very first dog training mentor preached this exercise, even before positive reinforcement was a “thing” in dog training. He is a good and wise man. 

This is probably the only 2-Minute-Trainer game that’s not really much fun for either of you at first. But it is part of the deal we make with our dogs. They get what they want when we get what we want. It’s a simple bargain, but an important one.

How Sit & Accept Praise works

Sit & Accept Praise is easy. With your dog wearing a collar, have him sit next to you. On the couch if it’s allowed. You get on the floor if it’s not. (As an aside: we don’t understand why people have upholstered furniture their dogs aren’t allowed to get on. But we think dogs are more valuable than any “stuff.”) (By the way – we also outline Sit & Accept Praise in our Puppy Basics. If you missed that, it’s no big deal, but you might want to get the free download for more great information.)

Sit and accept praise is the best way to get your dog to calm down.

Your dog may not want to sit next to you. That’s why he/she is wearing a collar. With your arm and elbow holding the dog at your side, thread a couple of fingers through the dog’s collar. Make sure your position is comfortable and that, if the dog fusses and moves, your fingers won’t bend awkwardly. The game may not be the most fun, but it also shouldn’t  hurt either one of you.. 

Then sit there, petting the dog with the other hand and speaking softly to him/her. Let your dog know that he’s a wonderful dog, and a good dog, and the handsomest dog in the world. If you’re a reader, read your book out loud. Just so your dog hears your voice being calm and gentle. 

That’s pretty much it. It’s easy to get your dog to calm down with this technique.

Dog’s not having it

When you feel the dog start to relax, you can ease the tension in the arm holding the dog at your side. Keep talking and petting. An occasional treat is fine, too. As long as the dog doesn’t get too excited by it. 

If, when you lessen the hold, your dog struggles, just go back to where you were. In time, your dog will learn that you mean it, it’s time to relax.

It may take more than one repetition for the message to get through. When your dog does relax, even lie down, give him/her a cue word that identifies the action. We use “relax,” so when our dogs’ tension eases, “good relax,” “nice relax, buddy,” “what a good relax.” That way, throughout the dog’s life, we can tell him to “Relax” and he knows what to do.

Dogs don’t judge

Afraid of doing it wrong? You don’t have to be. Dogs don’t judge. 

Some people are reluctant to try new things. Especially if they’re in a public place, or if they’re being watched. We see it in our dog training classes all the time. We have to encourage people to be louder, more active, keep trying, talk to their dogs, etc. Because we’re all afraid of being judged.

Dogs don’t judge

One of the best, and most fun, things about 2-Minute dog games is that there’s never a buzzer or anyone yelling “wrong!” You can play and adapt every game to where you and your dog are right at that moment. And dogs don’t shut down or quit – they’re encouraged to keep trying.

“Try again!” is a phrase that makes our dogs wiggle their butts – it means they get to keep playing. That particular attempt may not have been rewarded, but they get to keep playing and discover what does get the cookie.

You can’t “break” your dog

Positive reinforcement training will never “break” your dog. We have seen dog victims of harsh methods who may never recover to become normal dogs. That doesn’t happen with training games. The “worst” consequences for the dog is not getting a treat. And another opportunity to try.

You also don’t have to worry about getting things right every time. Just like our dogs, we have another chance to play and try again.

This week we’re playing a new game with our dogs. We’ve seen videos of dogs riding skateboards and thought it looked pretty fun. So we got our dog a skateboard!

See what they think

Whenever we introduce a new training tool (toy!) to our dogs, we take the first session or two to see what they think of it. If it’s something that’s familiar, the introduction doesn’t take long and we can start a new game behavior quickly. If it’s something as alien as a skateboard, we want to see how the dogs react before we formulate a game strategy. That’s exactly how we start even the very first dog training game, “Boxey.”

Each of Fran’s dogs reacted a bit differently:

Booker's second time on the skateboard. Dogs don't judge - he was all about the fun.

Booker (8-year-old Boston Terrier) dashed right over, put multiple paws on the deck, and wasn’t fazed in the least when it started moving. His game will emphasize putting three paws on, then moving it with purpose.

Tango (12-year-old Brussels Griffon) doesn’t see too well at this point, but is so familiar with training games that when he noticed something new in the space, he went over to it. He sniffed it, got paws up on it, and was clearly willing to play.

Simon (2-year-old Boston) ran over to the skateboard and was in constant motion. “You want this?” “How about this?” “I’ll try this!” “One paw good?” “Three paws?” “What about shoving it across the room?” 

Clearly none of them was afraid of the item itself, or its movement. And we’ll play games tailored to each dog. Booker’s game will work on refining technique. Tango will probably learn “go for a ride” with us moving the board. Simon’s game will focus on focus. That pup is smart as can be, but still has the attention span of a puppy Boston.

Dogs just want to have fun

We didn’t worry about doing something “wrong.” The dogs got to “meet” their new toy, and we were able to get an idea of each dog’s training game. The next time the dogs see the skateboard, we’ll have a plan for each one – what action will get a “click and treat,” and which one will be ignored. 

The plan doesn’t always happen. Because they’re dogs. That’s okay. We don’t have to be perfect, and neither do the dogs.

You don’t have to worry about getting things “wrong” in a dog training game. Dogs trained with positive reinforcement games will keep trying, keep exploring. Rewards are great, but most dogs adore playing the game. Most will keep trying, just because playing with you is fun.

And if you click at the wrong time? Just give your dog the cookie and try again. Nobody’s perfect and your dog will forgive you. Your mistake may confuse your dog for a minute, but that’s okay. Nobody got hurt. Nobody saw. Dogs are adaptable. Dogs don’t judge. And your dog loves playing with you.