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Dog Training Games Video Is Priceless

Get over yourself.

Your dog training game video will help you in training your dog. — Your dog training game video will help

That’s the message I (Hope) have to tell myself whenever we talk about doing a new dog-training-games video for 2-Minute-Trainer. It doesn’t matter what I look like, sound like, or wear. It matters that we’re helping people have more fun training their dogs. That’s the thing we know how to do, are pretty good at, and want to share.

And these days, more people watch than read. So to get out the message of positive, fun, fast dog training, we use video. It’s the message that matters, not the medium.

Unexpected benefits

Something pretty magical happened when I watched the videos of my training with Torque. In almost every single one, I was laughing and having fun with my dog. Maybe that’s the most powerful message in all our training. There are lots of great reasons to play training games with your dog. The best one is that it’s fun for both of you.

We highly recommend that you take video of your training games with your dog. You don’t have to let anybody else see it, if you don’t want to. It’s for you.

Keeping a record

I was having a not-so-great day until I watched the video with Torque. Just seeing my own expression change from serious to joy, because my dog was impatient to play with me. It turned the whole day around.

No matter what happens on any tomorrow, I will always be able to look at that video and see the happiness – mine and my dog’s. If you ever doubt that your dog is enjoying your training games, watch the video. Look at your dog’s rapt expression. Their intensity and eagerness to play will motivate you to play even more dog training games.

If you record your sessions regularly, you’ll also have a precious record of how far you’ve come from where you started. Try to take video at least once a week. You’ll be glad you did. Especially for those times when you don’t seem to be making headway. Reminding yourself where you were, and how far you’ve come, is a real boost.

Going viral

If you’re hoping for internet fame and figure out the secret, by all means go for it and share it with us. Our video Spotlight Series seemed to be growing; the first four videos had geometric growth from week to week. (Booker’s “Dance” is below.) Maybe ironically, the video that brought such joy has almost no views. We may not know the magic formula for internet stardom. What we do know is how special the relationship with our dogs is, and capturing that for posterity is priceless.

Training helps dogs choose wisely

Positive reinforcement training doesn’t mean your dog gets to do whatever they want whenever they want. It means that you, as the dog’s teacher, must help your dogs choose wisely. Good decisions are rewarded. Poor ones are ignored.

There are times that we ask too much of the dogs. That’s on us, not the dog. It happened today in Simon’s 2-Minute session this morning. Simon is Fran’s four-year-old Boston Terrier.

Training for Rally Obedience

One of the exercises often used in Rally courses is the Figure 8 with distractions. (This is a different kind of distraction than those Simon faced at an Agility trial, but the training to deal with any distraction is similar, as you’ll see.) Those distractions are bowls on either side containing either dog treats or dog toys. The objective is to heel with your dog in a figure-8 pattern around two pylons, despite the distractions.

Simon does great (after some training) when the bowls contain treats. While he’s food-motivated, treats are not his number-one reward. Toys are.

This morning Fran put a single bowl with some treats out and practiced heeling with Simon around the bowl. He was fine. Attentive to what he was doing and, after a glance or two, ignoring the distraction. His response was exactly right. He got lots of praise and treats.

Changing the question

Simon answered that question perfectly. So it was time to change the question and see if he answered right again. Fran replaced the treats in the bowl with a low-value dog toy. It blew his little doggy brain.

Simon did fine getting into perfect heel position. He stayed sitting, until Fran said “Heel!” He dashed for the toy in the bowl and took off. Fran held onto the toy, not letting him tug or chew, and told him to “drop it.” He did, which earned him a treat reward.

Fran set up again, a little further from the bowl, with a higher-value treat, but essentially the same question. We got the same, wrong answer. It was time to change the question – this one was too difficult for Simon today.

That’s also an important distinction. It was too much today. Another day, it might not be a big deal. But today we had to find a way to help Simon choose wisely.

Making positive changes

We switched the reward to a toy Simon likes even more than the one in the bowl. Fran played a short game of tug with him to show him what a wonderful treat was in store for him. And set up for heeling again. He almost chose wisely, but the “bird in the hand” option was still too tempting.

Helping dogs choose wisely means rewarding heavily when they do! — Vigorous game of “tug” after ignoring the distraction.

Next change: covering the toy and bowl with an open basket. Simon could still see the toy in the bowl, but there was a barrier to instant access. With this change, he was finally able to heel around the distraction successfully. And was immediately rewarded with a vigorous game of tug with the toy in Fran’s pocket.

Success not required

While not every session has to “end with a win,” we called a halt at that point. We’d already asked Simon to think hard, answer difficult questions, and concentrate.

Next time we visit this exercise – the Figure 8 with distractions – we’ll start where we left off today. With the toy visible but not accessible. We’ll start with the easier question and build up to the more difficult ones.

Dogs aren’t psychic and they don’t speak English. They do communicate clearly, if we’re paying attention. Yes, we do training to challenge our dogs. But we don’t want to overwhelm them by asking too much. If your dog is making bad decisions – it’s time to rethink the questions you’re asking.

Train your dog to walk on a treadmill

When it’s too hot to trot … Dogs need exercise. And one of the best exercises for both dogs and people is walking. (We talked about other kinds of exercise your dog might need in “Wellbeing of dogs.”) But there are times it’s just not practical to go for a long fitness walk. It may be too hot, too cold, too wet, or too icy. You may need to use every walk for training if you have a reactive dog. If, for whatever reason, outdoor walks are impractical, you can train your dog to walk on your treadmill.

There are specifically-designed “dog joggers,” but without a kennel full of dogs that need exercise, the treadmill designed for people works just fine. Especially if you can manually set the speed, incline, and time. That’s what we do with our dogs and they jump on to get started.

Training for treadmill walking

If, like many, your treadmill has become a fancy clothes hanger rather than a routine part of your schedule, the first training step is getting your dog used to the noise the treadmill makes. If you use the treadmill regularly, your dog is already familiar with the sound and shouldn’t fuss about it.

Use high-value treats for all treadmill training. Since this training is for health and fitness, we want the dogs to love it. Set a short program on the treadmill and have your treats handy. Start the treadmill and get your dog into the room on leash and harness. If your dog doesn’t have a harness, get one. It’s a safety issue. The last thing you want is to jerk your dog’s neck if he/she missteps on the treadmill.

For this first step in training the dog isn’t getting on the treadmill, but we want to establish the routine – harness, leash, yummy treats, treadmill. Dogs love routine. Get as close to the treadmill as your dog is comfortable and just reward him/her for being calm. If your dog is wary at first, that’s fine. You’ll move gradually closer as your dog indicates comfort where they are.

If your dog is fine with the sound, let him/her check out the treadmill, looking and sniffing. Keep hold of the leash and try not to allow your dog to step up on the treadmill when it’s moving. It could frighten him/her – things dogs step on don’t usually move by themselves.

Next step

For the next 2-Minute session of treadmill training, leave the treadmill off. This is the session your dog gets to step on the tread, sniff around, and learn the right position for walking on the treadmill. If your treadmill is like ours, there’s a grab bar on the tread side, towards you. Drape the leash over the bar so your dog gets used to seeing it over his/her head.

Simon (Boston Terrier) is walking on the treadmill. — Simon is getting his roadwork in.

Think about where you plan to stand and how you’ll deliver rewards when your dog is exercising on the treadmill. Different dogs may require different approaches. Since our dogs are comfortable on our left side through obedience training, we stand to the side of the treadmill, facing the same way as the dog. Remember – always reward with the hand closest to the dog. We hold the leash in our right hands, and deliver treats with the left.

How you do it is up to you and your dog. You can be on the left, right, or even standing over your dog with one foot on either side on the deck. Eventually you may even be able to share the treadmill with your dog. We don’t recommend it, for safety’s sake, but we know some people jog with their dogs. You can also be in front of the treadmill, encouraging your dog to come towards you. Unless you have another person to hold the leash, this isn’t ideal.

Try it, you’ll like it!

After a couple sessions hanging out by the treadmill, both on and off, your dog may be ready to give it a try. Don’t hurry – there’s no rush. If your dog avoids the equipment, he/she isn’t ready to get on it. Don’t ever try to plunk your dog onto the treadmill and start it up. This has to be a voluntary behavior if it has any chance of success.

Set your dog up on the treadmill, wearing his/her harness, leashed and under control. Start the treadmill slowly, without incline, and see how your dog does. You can always increase the speed later. Encourage him/her to walk as it starts up, even “fake-walking” yourself to get the idea across. Reward often and encourage frequently.

If your dog freaks out – go back to sound desensitizing and sniffing/looking sessions. If he/she isn’t frightened, but doesn’t quite know what to do, keep a firm hold of the leash and do not let him/her fall off the back. Encourage with a brisk “Let’s go!” or whatever you say when you go for a walk outside.

Treadmill training

When your dog is comfortable on the treadmill, adjust the program for the time and speed that’s best for you and your dog. Finding your dog’s natural gait speed may take a few tries. Gradually increase speed until your dog is moving comfortably and picking up his/her feet. If you hear nails scraping on the tread, the speed isn’t right for your dog. You can adjust slower as well as faster.

Three or four fitness walks a week are all that’s really necessary to keep your dog in top physical condition. It’s great to have the option of an inside workout when the weather outside is frightful.

Be there to train your dog

You have to be there to train your dog.

It seems obvious, but many people don’t make the crucial connections. Two of our puppy class students had questions this week about “problems” with their dogs. Neither realized they were both asking about the same thing in different situations.

Mitzi is a Golden Retriever puppy, five months old, who has earned the nickname “Destroyer of Toys.” Her dad asked what toys he can get that she won’t destroy. It’s getting expensive to replace them constantly, and, sooner or later, Mitzi’s going to wind up at the emergency vet for swallowing something she shouldn’t.

Bingo is a mixed-breed (Golden x Miniature Poodle) five-month-old puppy who barks a lot. Bingo’s older “brother,” Smokey, is teaching him how, since Smokey (9 years old) watches out the front windows and barks all day long.

You have to be there to train your dog

Both of these families have the same problem, but don’t realize it. They’re attempting the impossible – invisible training.

You can’t train your dog if you’re not there. You can’t solve a problem by ignoring it. You have to be there to train your dog.

Get creative with problem solving

The solution to Mitzi’s problem is really easy, but her people never thought of it. She gets no toys unless they are actively playing with her. This will actually work to solve another issue they don’t realize they have. Mitzi has no interest in her “dad.” She never checks in with him, rarely glances at him, and pays no attention unless she has no other choice. Their relationship is tenuous, at best.

Mitzi is a toy destroyer. You have to be there to train your dog. — Mitzi is a toy destroyer

If the only time this toy-obsessed puppy gets to play with toys is when her people are with her, she’ll learn they’re the source of all good things and the bond will grow exponentially. Dogs, especially puppies, don’t have to be busy or entertained all the time. Puppies need lots of sleep and down time. Without constant toy stimulation, Mitzi will have a chance to get the rest she needs to process all the things she’s learning.

Bingo’s a tougher case

Because there’s another, older dog in the house, Bingo is learning both bad and good things from him. To nip Bingo’s barking behavior in the bud, Smokey has to get with the program. And that will depend on how willing his people are to put in the effort.

It seems that Smokey has free run of the house, all day long. He parks himself at the front windows, which are two-stories high, with no blinds.. And he barks at everything he sees, all day long. Bingo is just following Smokey’s lead, learning that barking at everything outside is okay.

Be creative with solutions

Solving the issue requires restricting access to those windows when the family isn’t there to participate in training games. Hope listened to a bunch of “buts:”

But there are no blinds
But it’s an open concept house
But we can’t be there all the time
But they watch through the rail on the second floor

Hearing about the issue for the first time, listening for only a couple of minutes, Hope came up with two viable solutions: On the first floor, get spring-rods and drape sheets across them so the dogs can’t see out. On the second floor, drape the railing so the dogs can’t see out.

Once they manage access, the “Looky Lou” game is perfect. Let the dogs look out the window. If they start to bark, get their attention and reward for looking at you, instead of the barking trigger. If you’re there to explain what you want, your dog will quickly learn. Train one dog at a time. And yes, the nine-year-old dog can learn, too.

Look at whatever your dog’s issue is from an outsider’s point of view. Say it out loud, or pose the question on social media. Or ask us. There’s always a way to manage the behavior until your training takes effect. Your choices for dealing with your dog’s “naughty” behaviors are one of three: Ignore it. Manage it. Train it.

Mitzi’s and Bingo’s families have been ignoring it. Now they know how to manage it. The next step will be how diligent they are in training to “fix” it.

Training Games help dog fitness

It’s always great when you have proof. This week we got expert confirmation that training games help dog fitness.

Tango's training games help his fitness. — Tango’s training games help his fitness.

Fran’s almost-13-year-old Brussels Griffon Tango was sick. Really sick. Spewing out both ends sick. He’s recovering now, so the worry part is over. But while at the veterinarian’s office, the vet said she wasn’t worried about Tango not eating for two days, or a health crisis. Because he’s so fit, his body could cope and recover quickly.

That made an impact. Two sleepless nights and 36 hours of gastrointestinal distress may leave no long-lasting effects because this senior dog is in good shape. Fitness matters, for dogs, too.

Dog fitness plan

It makes sense. Both the body and mind for both dogs and people are “use it or lose it.” Dogs’ bodies are subject to many similar age-related problems as people are. Arthritis, loss of vision, loss of hearing, lessening of balance, etc. But staying active and asking our dogs to do the same can delay or prevent some issues.

Tango’s fitness routine is simple. It takes less than 10 minutes a day. He has a good time, gets treats (when he’s not sick), and even runs over to play his dog training games. If you didn’t know he was almost a teenager, you’d never guess it.

The balance disc “workout” is first every day. You’ll find the details and video in this post: Wellbeing of Dogs. Some days it goes better than others. We didn’t ask Tango to do it when he was sick. And he was a bit wobbly when he got back to it. But he did it happily. He missed the attention, if not the exercise.

Favorite training game

Tango’s favorite dog-training game is “Put your toys away.”

You dump a bunch of dog toys in a pile. The dog’s task is to get each one, pick it up, carry it across the room, and place it in a box.

Tango’s never played with toys, but he loves putting them away. And, because Fran puts the box as far away as the space allows, he gets lots of back-and-forth steps in. The first day he was feeling better, he actually trotted back and forth, so happy to be playing his game again.

Mind and body dog fitness

All dog training games work to help your dog’s fitness. Working your brain is just as important as working your body. Tango may not be able to see very well, but he can think just fine. And, while “Put your toys away” may be an old favorite, it’s also important to introduce new games. Challenging your dog’s mind can help keep it sharp.

It’s easy to take old dogs for granted, assuming they’ll be happy just napping away in the sunshine. But to keep them in the best shape, let them nap after they’ve played their training games.

Good dog training is bad for ratings

There’s absolutely nothing exciting about good dog training. You’re probably never going to see a TV show that features a positive reinforcement trainer. There’s no yelling, no drama, no lunging, growling, or biting. There’s patience, treats, and wonderful moments. Good dog training is bad for ratings – absolutely no suspense.

Good dog training = bad television

Those wonderful moments happen all the time when you’re a positive reinforcement trainer.

One of our students has been having a hard time battling her habit of yanking on her dog’s collar. Especially when her 18-month old, active Miniature Poodle does something she considers naughty. Then, after class, when she was talking to us, her dog started jumping on Hope. And she dropped his leash! It was a wonderful breakthrough for her. She knows herself well enough to know, with leash in hand, she’d pull on her dog. Instead, she dropped it and trusted the training. And it worked! With no response to his jumping, the dog stopped, sat, and was quickly praised and rewarded. It was a two-fer! Both the student and the dog got it right.

But that light-bulb moment, huge though it may have been for the people and dog involved, made for dull watching. Only the people involved knew how huge it was, because it looked like a woman choosing not to control her jumping dog. Just two women standing there, and a jumping dog. No yelling, no motion, nothing dramatic. That’s the way it should be.

Not easy, but worth it

Of course our students have an advantage. We’re there. And while we never administer a correction on a dog, we’re famous for “yelling” at our students. We notice when their past experience and habit has them popping a dog’s collar. We see when they fail to maintain connection with their dogs. And we yell when they miss an opportunity to praise and reward their dogs.

Remember that dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. (“Careful where you put it!“) Behavior that gets attention is more likely to be repeated. So the one phrase our students hear over and over again is: “Doing it right has to look different than getting it wrong.” Give your dog the information he/she needs. Yes, that was good! That’s what I want! Good dog! Here’s a cookie!

Only happy sounds

Oftentimes there’s a lot of chatter with our own dog training games. But it’s never, ever yelling at the dog. While commands are given only once (Sit, Stand, Down, Front), it’s not the only thing the dogs hear. But all of the conversation is upbeat and encouraging; Go get it! Such a smart puppy! Whatcha Gonna Do? Who’s a good boy? Are you the cleverest fellow?

The worst dogs should hear is either a non-reward marker like “Oops!” or a simple phrase like “that’s not it, try again.” As long as your 2-Minute-Dog Training Games are focused and fun, you don’t have to worry about your dog disengaging. They will persist, because they’re having fun, too.

Value of video

While good dog training may not make for suspenseful TV, taking video of your own sessions is great. First off, when you’re in the middle of it, you can’t see how incredibly cute your dog is during the session. So it’s great to have it for posterity.

Secondly, you can see how you did as a trainer. Did you miss a chance to praise your dog? Did you give attention to something you shouldn’t have? Was your energy happy and fun? And did you make doing the right thing look different for your dog every single time? Celebrate every little breakthrough, even if it would make bad TV.

Dog training collars are just another myth

Dog training collars don’t exist. There is no object that can train your dog. You’re the only training gear you and your dog really need.

Traditionally, choke-chain and prong collars were considered training collars. Then came the invention of electronic collars. All of these are threats of punishment, not trainers. You don’t need one to control your dog.

Real training gear

What your dog wears for your training games doesn’t matter. It can be a regular buckle collar, a harness, or nothing at all. Dog training isn’t ever about the “stuff” – although heaven knows we’ve managed to accumulate tons of stuff. It’s about your relationship with your dog. Having fun. Playing games. Building understanding. And growing your bond.

The gear you need is intangible: patience, adaptability, observation, a sense of humor. It’s being willing to pay attention to your dog and the signals he/she gives you. And the ability to try something else when what you’re doing isn’t working.

Collars have their uses

Puppy Booker wears a flat buckle collar with a leash on to begin training. It was not a "dog training collar." — Puppy Booker starting training wearing a flat buckle collar and leash.

When you begin playing training games with your dog, a collar or harness may be useful. You may need to attach a leash to keep your dog in the vicinity at first. We recommend at least a six-foot leash. And all you do is attach it and step on the end to keep the dog relatively close.

Until your dog understands that training games are a fun zone, he/she may attempt to disengage. Remember, depending on what kind of training you’ve experienced in the past, your dog may expect to be corrected or punished for “wrong” answers. To avoid that, your dog may attempt to disengage and leave the area.

In 2-Minute Training games there’s no such thing as punishment. Reward what you like, ignore what you don’t. It will take a while for your dog to understand they can try all kinds of stuff. (We talked about one of Simon’s long-awaited breakthroughs in our article “Stay positive in dog training – results come in time.”) It may not be exactly right, but that’s okay. We just try again.

Naked games

Our dogs, who wear nothing in the house, adore playing training games. When we open the door to the basement where we have our little training area, they all barrel down as fast as they can go. They sometimes try to sneak down if we’ve left the door ajar accidentally.

We love and encourage that enthusiasm. Our morning training games are the best way to start the day – having fun with our dogs. And if a particular game doesn’t go the way we wanted it to, there’s always another opportunity.

Recently, Hope decided to start teaching Torque the Utility Obedience glove retrieve. That exercise has three evenly-spaced work gloves at one end of the room. The judge decides which glove (left, center, or right) the dog must fetch and bring back to the owner. If your dog has a fetch behavior, it seems simple enough.

We learned quickly that it’s more complex than that. Torque was stumped. He had no idea what to do with the gloves – he’d never seen them before. With 2-Minute Training games, we easily adapted and took it back to basics.

Torque’s next game was just getting familiar with work gloves. Hope put them on the floor and sat close by. Torque got a click and reward for any interaction with the gloves. Looking at them. Pawing at them. Moving them. After three clicks at each stage, Hope waited for Torque to do something else. Within just a couple of minutes, when putting a paw on the glove no longer got him a click, he moved on to mouthing them, picking them up, even carrying them a step or two.

Clothes don’t make the dog

Even though he didn’t get it “right” – Torque stayed right with the game because he’s not afraid to try new things. That’s because he’s never been punished with a dog training collar, or anything else.He plays naked, as do all our dogs. He stays and plays because he loves it, not because he’s compelled.

Don’t diminish your dog’s spirit with the constant fear of being wrong. You want your dog engaged, happy, learning new things, and eager to participate in training games. It’s such a joy to see dogs fulfilling their potential, making good choices, engaging with their families. Being the family member you dreamed of when you got your dog.

Stop Your Dog from Jumping on People

It’s really cute when puppies jump up to get attention. It’s not cute anymore when the dog grows up and isn’t a cute, tiny puppy any more. So how do you stop your dog from jumping on people?

Cry for attention

How do you stop a dog from jumping on you? — A dog jumping on you is a plea for attention.

Dogs don’t generally just jump for joy. When they’re so full of energy they just can’t contain themselves, jumping up and down isn’t the usual behavior. Instead, they’ll get the “zoomies” and run like crazy. If your house, like ours, has a circular path, they’ll make it into a race track. And you’d best just stay out of the way until the zoomies run out.

Jumping, especially on people, is a plea for attention. And the best way to get it to stop is by ignoring it. Which, we freely admit, is easier said than done.

In Hope’s Beginning Obedience/Puppy classes, dogs will often jump on her as she approaches. We don’t know if you can tell from our videos, but she’s not a big person. She’s about five-foot-nothing tall, and not incredibly substantial. In one session, there was a lovely, 50+ lb. Lab puppy named Gus who adored jumping on Hope and grabbing the mask off her face. On his hind legs, Gus is about the same height as Hope, so her mask was well within reach. It’s worth noting that he really is a very nice dog – he never snagged anything but the mask.

Be prepared

Knowing when your dog is likely to jump on someone, and what circumstances trigger the behavior, is key in stopping it. Set up the situation and be prepared.

In this case, Hope had Gus’s people keep hold of his leash until she braced herself and was ready for his enthusiasm. Then she told them to release enough slack for Gus to reach her, but not go past. Gus grabbed the mask again, but Hope did nothing. She didn’t move, didn’t play “tug” with the mask, didn’t look at him, didn’t pay any attention to him. She looked past Gus at his people. And had to tell them repeatedly not to react.

And, after a few seconds of acting the fool, Gus got all four feet on the ground. Immediately, Hope told him what a good boy he was and started petting him. Which triggered his jumping.

Hope instantly returned to braced-statue mode. No reaction whatsoever. And Gus got all four feet on the ground. Which earned him the praise and attention he wanted.

Instant gratification

Timing is important in teaching dogs. If the lesson is “don’t jump on people” there has to be a visible difference. Jump = no attention. No jumping = praise, treats, and attention.

We’ve often said that doing nothing is, by far, the hardest part of dog training. (“The hardest part of dog training“) If you pay attention to behaviors you don’t want, you’re encouraging that behavior. If you remove that attention, the dog has no reason to continue the behavior – it’s not working for him.

Dogs always give you more of the behavior you focus on. If you repeatedly say “off, get off, no jump” it’s paying attention to the behavior. It works much better to emphasize when your dog is doing something you want. Instant praise, treats, or a game of tug will tell your dog he’s being “good,” that you like what he’s doing, and he’ll get more attention with this good choice.

Making good choices

Everyone, dogs included, is sufficiently selfish to do what works best. If jumping on people results in attention, even if it’s “No, No, bad dog,” it’s working. Dogs don’t discriminate between negative and positive attention. To your dog, anytime you focus on them, it’s a good thing.

If you ignore the behavior you don’t want, your dog has no reason to continue doing it. The dog’s behavior isn’t working, so they stop doing it.

If your dog is jumping on someone, have them stand like a statue. Fold their arms across their chest and stare at the ceiling. It may take some repetitions, but your dog will learn that jumping gets them nothing they want. Dogs particularly hate it when you don’t look at them. So make a point of looking away.

Flip side

The other side of the coin has to be just as fast and clear. If the dog has all four feet on the ground, meet their eyes, praise them mightily, and give treats, pets, toys. For as long as the good behavior lasts. Be ready to stop in mid-word if the jumping starts.

It may take some time for the lesson to sink in. Each time the dog gets the same message, the “right” choice penetrates deeper into their personality. By the end of the class session, Gus sat whenever Hope came over to see him. Good boy, Gus!

Looky-Loo Part II (Dog Training Game)

Looky-Loo is a dog training game that reminds your dog that the two of you are a team, doing things together. It lets dogs be dogs – investigating their surroundings, being aware of the world around them. While always maintaining a “check in” mentality. The fun continues as long as your dog remembers to “check in” with you.

This applies whether you’re out for a meandering walk around the neighborhood or running a competition agility course. The invisible connection between you and your dog is an important part of your relationship. In unfamiliar circumstances, or if your dog’s unsure, your demeanor when your dog checks in will help determine how interactions proceed.

Next step in Looky-Loo

In the first phase of Looky-Loo you held a toy or other object behind your back, showed it to your dog briefly while saying “Look!”, and then hide it again. When your dog looked at your face, rather than for the toy, you clicked and rewarded. After just a few sessions, your dog should realize the object of the game is to focus on you.

The next step is to keep the toy visible. Only say “Look!” once when you first show it. If it’s a particularly desirable toy, it may take a while until your dog remembers to focus on you. As soon as they do, click and reward. The reward can be a treat or even a game of tug with the “Look!” toy. Focusing on you has to be the most rewarding part of the game. The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you, not at the object.

Timing is important

The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you. That’s the goal of “Looky-Loo.” Getting your dog to return his/her gaze to you after something distracting happens. (See last week’s tip: Looky-Loo Part 1.) It’s not the end of the world if your timing is off sometimes. It happens to everyone. When it does, and it will, give your dog an “Oops! Cookie” and reset the game. Just keep the goal in mind and watch your dog’s eyes.

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. Some people, playing attention games, even start holding the treat by their noses to bring their dog’s focus up to their eyes. That lures the dog to look at their face, rather than rewarding the dog’s decision to watch. “Watch me!” is a phrase you might hear a lot in dog training classes. It works sometimes. It doesn’t teach the dog that watching is more interesting than that speck on the floor.

Upping the game

The next step, before you take “Looky-Loo” out on the road, is to get your dog to look at distractions in the environment and still choose to look at you. Rather than holding the object, it will be on the floor where you’ll be passing by it.

It’s time to move the game someplace where you have space to move a few steps and place a distracting object to the side. Place an object that isn’t very interesting to your dog on the floor. Holding the dog’s leash, try to walk by the object, saying “Look!” Keep walking, and when your dog’s focus is on you, click and reward. If the dog’s attention stays on the object, go back to the last step, using the same object. Your dog will let you know when they’re ready to move on, or if it’s not quite time.

Fran and Simon have a variation of Looky-Loo:

Moving on

Remember, there’s no timetable for dog training games. Dogs learn at their own pace. And some games go more slowly than others. If your dog is extremely curious, this may be a tough one for them.

The next steps would be to change the object used as a distraction. We started our Looky-Loo dog training game with something that the dog didn’t really care about. Make the distraction more desirable in gradual steps. Work your way up to things that your dog loves. Can your dog still “Look!” and come back to you? What if it was a favorite toy? Or a bowl of food?

Taking it to the streets

When your dog is fairly proficient at “Look!” and focus, it’s time to move the game to places you may actually need it. When you do, start the game with a quick reminder of where the game began – hide an object behind your back, show it briefly while saying “Look!” and hide it again. Just a quick refresher helps the dog know what game you’re playing.

Simon is distracted - we need to take a step back in the Looky-Loo dog training game. — Time to go back a step in the “Looky-Loo” dog training game…

When you’re out and about, you can make anything the subject of “Looky-Lou!” Just tell your dog to “Look!,” whether it’s a squirrel, a person walking, or a dog being walked in the distance. When your dog looks back at you, click and reward.

Be ready

Your dog is learning to gauge their reaction to “stuff” by your response. Stay calm, tell your dog to “Look!” and wait for them to pay attention to you. Be sure you’re watching your dog’s face so you can tell the exact moment their focus is on you. Be more excited by your dog watching you! That’s the tremendous accomplishment – celebrate it with enthusiasm!

Dog Training Game: Looky-Loo (Part 1)

Dogs are nosy creatures. Some are almost obsessive in their curiosity about what’s “over there.” You can indulge your dog and still maintain focus with the dog training game Looky-Loo!

Torque can play "Looky-Loo" and look at things he hears, then turn his focus back to Hope. — Torque can look around at things he hears, then turn his focus back to Hope.

Realistically, none of us lives on a solitary island. Our dogs, whether they’re just walking around the neighborhood or competing in dog sports, need to be familiar with their surroundings. That means being able to look around, take in the sights and smells around them, be calm, and get on with what they were doing. (We talked about this earlier, in our article, “Be Better Than Squirrel!“)

That’s the crucial part. The dog has to take in his/her surroundings without reacting negatively. Seeing, recognizing, and bringing attention back to “business.”

Looky-Loo set up

Like all 2-Minute-Training games, it starts in a quiet space with no distractions. Dogs have to learn how to play this new game before introducing distractions.

What you’ll need:

Training timer
Your dog on leash and collar
Treats
An object / toy your dog likes, small enough for you to hold easily
Clicker (Optional, but recommended

Playing Looky-Loo:

Session 1 – Set your timer for 2 Minutes. Turn it on. Stand with your dog close in front of you. If your dog doesn’t have a decent “stay,” step on the leash. (Note: the leash should be long enough so your dog can stand up, sit, lie down, or move around, but not leave the area). Facing your dog, hold the toy in one hand behind your back. Swing the toy out so your dog can see it, say “Look!” and hide the toy behind you again. If your dog looks at your face, click and reward.

That’s it for the first session. You’re teaching your dog to look, then return focus to you. Looking at you is the goal of the game. Imagine how much better life would be if your dog looked at that squirrel, then back at you? And then calmly continued on your walk?

Keep in mind:

Some dogs will understand and start immediately looking at you after glancing at the object. Other dogs may take a while to get it. That’s okay. Stay at the first step as long as you need to for reliable understanding. When your dog gets it right about 75 percent of the time, then it’s time to move on.

Your dog glancing at the “look” object is good. We want our dogs to see what’s around them. But it’s not the point of the game. Dogs look at stuff, especially moving stuff. We expect the dog to look at the toy when we show it.

The objective of the game is bringing the dog’s attention back to you after the toy disappears again. That’s when the click and reward come – when your dog’s eyes meet yours.

Next week: Looky-Loo Part II