dog training made fun Archives - Page 4 of 6

Dog Training Game: Gimme your face!

Torque's "Gimme your face!" pose. — Torque’s “Gimme your face!” pose.

Part of having dogs is all the “husbandry” stuff you have to do – brushing, cleaning, grooming, etc. Lots of dogs don’t particularly care for it – especially if you’re trying to mess with their face. Wouldn’t you, your veterinarian, and your groomer love it if your dog was a willing participant? That’s why we teach the “Gimme your face!” dog training game.

Like all communication between you and your dog, you can call the game whatever you want. A friend of ours uses “Chin!” to get her dog to lie flat with chin on the ground. It was her cue for the obedience “down-stay” exercise. Whatever you can easily remember would be just fine. We like “Gimme Your Face!” because it makes us smile.

Gimme Your Face was a game changer

And it can be incredibly useful. Quite a while ago, we had a Boston Terrier named Daemon. Unfortunately, Daemon developed cataracts in his eyes when he was only about seven years old. At the time, veterinary ophthalmologists would remove the cloudy lens, but did not implant a new one as they do today. Which would have been awful for Daemon – his favorite game was fetching his beloved yellow rubber ball.

So we asked our own optometrist if he would consider fitting Daemon for contact lenses. He agreed and our regular veterinarian came with – it was the only legal way the eye doctor could prescribe for a dog.

To get to the point for this tip – Daemon knew “Gimme Your Face!” And that was how we got him to rest his chin on the gizmo doctors use to look into your eyes. That same place you put your chin – Daemon knew to put his! If he hadn’t already known the game, there was no way the doctor could have prescribed contact lenses for Daemon.

Every day after work we would ask “Daemon, want to put your eyes in?” and he would run into the bathroom to have us put his contacts in. And every evening before bed, we would take them out. Over the next several years he only lost a couple of contacts – he loved being able to see.

Variation on “Touch!”

So how do you teach your dog to “Gimme Your Face!”? One of the very first training games dogs should learn is “Touch!” – touching their nose to the palm of your hand. If your dog doesn’t already play this regularly, start here: Training Touch! We like it because it’s a game you can easily play anywhere, especially when your dog is stressed and nervous. Remember that familiar games help dogs regain focus and composure.

To teach “Gimme Your Face!,” begin with the “Touch!” and, while rewarding your dog for the touch, slide your palm underneath the dog’s chin/jaw, cradling it lightly. Say “Good Face!” (or “Chin!” or your own word), reward again, and remove your hand.

Repeat the same sequence a few times, until your dog seems comfortable with it. Some dogs really love getting their chins/throats scratched, and easily learn this new game. Especially if you tickle or scratch them at the jaw.

Next steps

When you think your dog is starting to understand the game, try cupping your palm and saying “Face!” If your dog readily puts their chin in your palm – click and reward! “Good Face!”

The next step is to build some duration into “Gimme Your Face!” It’s easy to do – just keep your dog’s chin in your hand and deliver treats. Short intervals at first, then gradually increasing the time between rewards. If your dog lifts their head, return the treat in your hand to the bowl. Leave your hand in place and wait for your dog to replace their chin in your palm.

As always, some dogs love the game and catch on immediately. Others take a little longer. But it’s worth waiting for and being patient. Imagine how much easier it will be for you to brush your dog’s teeth and clean their ears if they willingly “Gimme your face!”

“Drop It!” dog training game

“Drop It!” is one of the top three commands every dog should know. It can, potentially, save your dog’s life. We know – we have personal experience. The “Drop It!” dog training game is an important one to teach your pup early.

One day we had our dogs out in our own fully-fenced yard. Hope looks over to see her French Bulldog Dax chewing on something. Not good. Hope went over and told her to “Drop it!” Luckily, she did. It was a three-inch long stick of rat poison. Unfortunately, the sticks are about five inches long to start with.

It was a scary time, but getting the majority of the poison away from her, and a quick trip to the vet saved her life.

How did the poison get into our yard, you ask? It turns out that someone in the neighborhood used them in their own yard. The wildlife in the neighborhood – squirrels, birds, raccoons, opossums, skunks, etc.- didn’t know that only rats are supposed to eat them. They thought they’d discovered a bountiful feast and carried them all over the area. As far as we know, Dax was the only dog that found one. But we were cleaning up other animals for weeks.

Was it legal for our neighbor to do this? No, it wasn’t. Did we sue them to recover veterinary costs? Yes, we did. And won. However, no dollar amount would matter if our dog hadn’t recovered.

Teaching “Drop It!”

The first phase of “Drop It!” is relatively easy. It’s just trading toys with your dog. Start with a toy they like, but aren’t crazy about. You can either use two identical toys, or toys that have the same relatively low value. Play tug with your dog for a few seconds with one of the toys. Then hold the toy still while the dog is still holding it, and say “Drop It!” while you start moving the second toy with your other hand. The moment your dog releases the first toy to grab the other one, say “Good ‘Drop it!’” And play with the second toy – same procedure. That does it for the first “Drop It!” lesson.

Tango plays the "Drop It" game with his toys - dropping them in the bin. — Tango plays the “Drop It!” game with his toys – dropping them in the bin.

Dogs will be wary of letting go if they think that’s the end of the fun. As long as the game continues, the dog should be okay with swapping one fun thing for another. When it’s time to end the game entirely, rather than swapping, don’t ask for the “Drop it!” Instead, use something like “That’s all!” and offer an incredibly yummy treat.

Yes, we’re bribing the dog to do what we want. We’re okay with that. Until the dog understands the command, and will reliably do it, we use whatever positive means necessary to get the result we want. Taking away something valuable may cause dogs to guard it. And resource guarding can become a big problem.

Next step in “Drop it!”

To progress the “Drop It!” game, use a variety of different toys and/or treats, gradually introducing items your dog finds very valuable. It’s one thing to get a ball-loving dog to drop a rope toy. It’s another to get them to actually drop the ball.

If your dog is crazy about a certain toy, or kind of toy, be sure to have multiples of that identical item to teach drop it. Even the most well-trained dog may be reluctant to drop a cherished item. It may take a while to work up to the most valuable resources.

Go at your dog’s pace. If they don’t believe that the “other” item is as good as the one they have, they may not willingly obey the “Drop it!” Some dogs, like our own Booker, are more interested in the interaction with their people. The item doesn’t matter as much as the game.

Torque, on the other hand, prizes the ball above anything else. To him, having the toy is more important than the game. “Drop It!” is a persistent struggle for him, and when his better nature wins, he’s rewarded with even more time with his beloved ball. And if you’ve played the “Carry It” game with your dog, the “Drop It!” dog training game is the next logical, and important, step.

Know your dog

Knowing your dog’s personality and reward hierarchy is key. Stay with the less-valuable items as long as you need to build your dog’s trust in the game. Don’t make “Drop It!” the end of fun – reward with more time and use a different cue to end the game. You may even find that using a timer is beneficial. Your dog will learn that the “beep” of the timer signals the end of that game. Keep in mind that dogs love routine. If you always end the game when you hear the beep, your dog will know it’s time to go do something else.

“Carry It!” dog training game

Once your dog learns “Pick it up!” the next step is to hold it and take it someplace. It’s time for the “Carry it!” game.

For this game, use the same variety of objects you used for “Pick It Up!” If there’s a particular item you’d really like your dog to learn to carry, like a small whiteboard or tote bag, play the “Pick It Up!” game with that object so they’ll be ready to hold and carry it.

Imagine the social media posts you can create if your dog holds a whiteboard! Or how people will react when your dog carries their own stuff. Or even better – helps bring in the shopping!

Fun and maybe useful dog games

Booker loves the "Carry it!" dog training game - he puts away his foam blocks! — Booker loves the “Carry it!” dog training game.

Having your dog carry stuff for you has practical limits – they’re often not allowed places their skills could be put to use. But it is a fun and impressive behavior – from “go get me a soda!” to “put your toys away.” Fetching and carrying are things long associated with dogs. But most people don’t realize it can go far beyond a tennis ball or dog toys.

It doesn’t matter how old your dog is, what breed it is, or whether you’re an experienced dog person or not. All dogs can learn whatever you choose to teach them. Once dogs are familiar with 2-Minute Dog Training Games, they’re eager to try new stuff, happy to play, and enthusiastic about learning.

The start of “Carry it!”

If you’re using a clicker (and we hope you are) it’s easy to introduce your dog to the concept of keeping hold of an object. Play the “Pick it up!” game and, rather than an instant click, delay it. At first, just a tiny moment. If your dog is like most, as soon as they hear the click they’ll drop the object. We want to prolong the hold. So when your dog picks up the object, let them know they’re good – “Yes! Good dog!” but don’t click right away. Count to two, then click. If the dog immediately drops the object when they hear the click, say “good drop!”

The next step is to actually move while holding the object. Once your dog is holding it for a couple of beats, take a step back, encouraging your dog to come with you. If they drop the object rather than moving with it, stop and stare at the thing. “What were you doing?” or “You forgot something!” Wait until the dog picks it up and this time, just lean back. Your dog may not be ready for a whole step.

Add on gradually

As always, your dog will let you know when it’s time to add – both more time for the hold and more distance for the carry. When your dog is getting it “right” about 75 percent of the time, ask for more. Another step. A longer hold.

If your dog doesn’t like holding stuff, one game to turn that around is to tug on it. Just like pulling on your dog’s leash causes them to resist and pull more, tugging on something your dog is holding in their mouth will usually cause them to clamp it harder. That resistance is a trait you can take advantage of with both “hold” and “drop” behaviors.

You probably noticed that the “Drop it!” behavior is part of both holding and carrying. If your dog is a “it’s mine and you can’t have it” kind of dog, you’ll want to play “Drop it!” games separately. Next time we’ll go over the games for teaching “Drop it!”

Dog Training Games Video Is Priceless

Get over yourself.

Your dog training game video will help you in training your dog. — Your dog training game video will help

That’s the message I (Hope) have to tell myself whenever we talk about doing a new dog-training-games video for 2-Minute-Trainer. It doesn’t matter what I look like, sound like, or wear. It matters that we’re helping people have more fun training their dogs. That’s the thing we know how to do, are pretty good at, and want to share.

And these days, more people watch than read. So to get out the message of positive, fun, fast dog training, we use video. It’s the message that matters, not the medium.

Unexpected benefits

Something pretty magical happened when I watched the videos of my training with Torque. In almost every single one, I was laughing and having fun with my dog. Maybe that’s the most powerful message in all our training. There are lots of great reasons to play training games with your dog. The best one is that it’s fun for both of you.

We highly recommend that you take video of your training games with your dog. You don’t have to let anybody else see it, if you don’t want to. It’s for you.

Keeping a record

I was having a not-so-great day until I watched the video with Torque. Just seeing my own expression change from serious to joy, because my dog was impatient to play with me. It turned the whole day around.

No matter what happens on any tomorrow, I will always be able to look at that video and see the happiness – mine and my dog’s. If you ever doubt that your dog is enjoying your training games, watch the video. Look at your dog’s rapt expression. Their intensity and eagerness to play will motivate you to play even more dog training games.

If you record your sessions regularly, you’ll also have a precious record of how far you’ve come from where you started. Try to take video at least once a week. You’ll be glad you did. Especially for those times when you don’t seem to be making headway. Reminding yourself where you were, and how far you’ve come, is a real boost.

Going viral

If you’re hoping for internet fame and figure out the secret, by all means go for it and share it with us. Our video Spotlight Series seemed to be growing; the first four videos had geometric growth from week to week. (Booker’s “Dance” is below.) Maybe ironically, the video that brought such joy has almost no views. We may not know the magic formula for internet stardom. What we do know is how special the relationship with our dogs is, and capturing that for posterity is priceless.

Training helps dogs choose wisely

Positive reinforcement training doesn’t mean your dog gets to do whatever they want whenever they want. It means that you, as the dog’s teacher, must help your dogs choose wisely. Good decisions are rewarded. Poor ones are ignored.

There are times that we ask too much of the dogs. That’s on us, not the dog. It happened today in Simon’s 2-Minute session this morning. Simon is Fran’s four-year-old Boston Terrier.

Training for Rally Obedience

One of the exercises often used in Rally courses is the Figure 8 with distractions. (This is a different kind of distraction than those Simon faced at an Agility trial, but the training to deal with any distraction is similar, as you’ll see.) Those distractions are bowls on either side containing either dog treats or dog toys. The objective is to heel with your dog in a figure-8 pattern around two pylons, despite the distractions.

Simon does great (after some training) when the bowls contain treats. While he’s food-motivated, treats are not his number-one reward. Toys are.

This morning Fran put a single bowl with some treats out and practiced heeling with Simon around the bowl. He was fine. Attentive to what he was doing and, after a glance or two, ignoring the distraction. His response was exactly right. He got lots of praise and treats.

Changing the question

Simon answered that question perfectly. So it was time to change the question and see if he answered right again. Fran replaced the treats in the bowl with a low-value dog toy. It blew his little doggy brain.

Simon did fine getting into perfect heel position. He stayed sitting, until Fran said “Heel!” He dashed for the toy in the bowl and took off. Fran held onto the toy, not letting him tug or chew, and told him to “drop it.” He did, which earned him a treat reward.

Fran set up again, a little further from the bowl, with a higher-value treat, but essentially the same question. We got the same, wrong answer. It was time to change the question – this one was too difficult for Simon today.

That’s also an important distinction. It was too much today. Another day, it might not be a big deal. But today we had to find a way to help Simon choose wisely.

Making positive changes

We switched the reward to a toy Simon likes even more than the one in the bowl. Fran played a short game of tug with him to show him what a wonderful treat was in store for him. And set up for heeling again. He almost chose wisely, but the “bird in the hand” option was still too tempting.

Helping dogs choose wisely means rewarding heavily when they do! — Vigorous game of “tug” after ignoring the distraction.

Next change: covering the toy and bowl with an open basket. Simon could still see the toy in the bowl, but there was a barrier to instant access. With this change, he was finally able to heel around the distraction successfully. And was immediately rewarded with a vigorous game of tug with the toy in Fran’s pocket.

Success not required

While not every session has to “end with a win,” we called a halt at that point. We’d already asked Simon to think hard, answer difficult questions, and concentrate.

Next time we visit this exercise – the Figure 8 with distractions – we’ll start where we left off today. With the toy visible but not accessible. We’ll start with the easier question and build up to the more difficult ones.

Dogs aren’t psychic and they don’t speak English. They do communicate clearly, if we’re paying attention. Yes, we do training to challenge our dogs. But we don’t want to overwhelm them by asking too much. If your dog is making bad decisions – it’s time to rethink the questions you’re asking.

Train your dog to walk on a treadmill

When it’s too hot to trot … Dogs need exercise. And one of the best exercises for both dogs and people is walking. (We talked about other kinds of exercise your dog might need in “Wellbeing of dogs.”) But there are times it’s just not practical to go for a long fitness walk. It may be too hot, too cold, too wet, or too icy. You may need to use every walk for training if you have a reactive dog. If, for whatever reason, outdoor walks are impractical, you can train your dog to walk on your treadmill.

There are specifically-designed “dog joggers,” but without a kennel full of dogs that need exercise, the treadmill designed for people works just fine. Especially if you can manually set the speed, incline, and time. That’s what we do with our dogs and they jump on to get started.

Training for treadmill walking

If, like many, your treadmill has become a fancy clothes hanger rather than a routine part of your schedule, the first training step is getting your dog used to the noise the treadmill makes. If you use the treadmill regularly, your dog is already familiar with the sound and shouldn’t fuss about it.

Use high-value treats for all treadmill training. Since this training is for health and fitness, we want the dogs to love it. Set a short program on the treadmill and have your treats handy. Start the treadmill and get your dog into the room on leash and harness. If your dog doesn’t have a harness, get one. It’s a safety issue. The last thing you want is to jerk your dog’s neck if he/she missteps on the treadmill.

For this first step in training the dog isn’t getting on the treadmill, but we want to establish the routine – harness, leash, yummy treats, treadmill. Dogs love routine. Get as close to the treadmill as your dog is comfortable and just reward him/her for being calm. If your dog is wary at first, that’s fine. You’ll move gradually closer as your dog indicates comfort where they are.

If your dog is fine with the sound, let him/her check out the treadmill, looking and sniffing. Keep hold of the leash and try not to allow your dog to step up on the treadmill when it’s moving. It could frighten him/her – things dogs step on don’t usually move by themselves.

Next step

For the next 2-Minute session of treadmill training, leave the treadmill off. This is the session your dog gets to step on the tread, sniff around, and learn the right position for walking on the treadmill. If your treadmill is like ours, there’s a grab bar on the tread side, towards you. Drape the leash over the bar so your dog gets used to seeing it over his/her head.

Simon (Boston Terrier) is walking on the treadmill. — Simon is getting his roadwork in.

Think about where you plan to stand and how you’ll deliver rewards when your dog is exercising on the treadmill. Different dogs may require different approaches. Since our dogs are comfortable on our left side through obedience training, we stand to the side of the treadmill, facing the same way as the dog. Remember – always reward with the hand closest to the dog. We hold the leash in our right hands, and deliver treats with the left.

How you do it is up to you and your dog. You can be on the left, right, or even standing over your dog with one foot on either side on the deck. Eventually you may even be able to share the treadmill with your dog. We don’t recommend it, for safety’s sake, but we know some people jog with their dogs. You can also be in front of the treadmill, encouraging your dog to come towards you. Unless you have another person to hold the leash, this isn’t ideal.

Try it, you’ll like it!

After a couple sessions hanging out by the treadmill, both on and off, your dog may be ready to give it a try. Don’t hurry – there’s no rush. If your dog avoids the equipment, he/she isn’t ready to get on it. Don’t ever try to plunk your dog onto the treadmill and start it up. This has to be a voluntary behavior if it has any chance of success.

Set your dog up on the treadmill, wearing his/her harness, leashed and under control. Start the treadmill slowly, without incline, and see how your dog does. You can always increase the speed later. Encourage him/her to walk as it starts up, even “fake-walking” yourself to get the idea across. Reward often and encourage frequently.

If your dog freaks out – go back to sound desensitizing and sniffing/looking sessions. If he/she isn’t frightened, but doesn’t quite know what to do, keep a firm hold of the leash and do not let him/her fall off the back. Encourage with a brisk “Let’s go!” or whatever you say when you go for a walk outside.

Treadmill training

When your dog is comfortable on the treadmill, adjust the program for the time and speed that’s best for you and your dog. Finding your dog’s natural gait speed may take a few tries. Gradually increase speed until your dog is moving comfortably and picking up his/her feet. If you hear nails scraping on the tread, the speed isn’t right for your dog. You can adjust slower as well as faster.

Three or four fitness walks a week are all that’s really necessary to keep your dog in top physical condition. It’s great to have the option of an inside workout when the weather outside is frightful.

Be there to train your dog

You have to be there to train your dog.

It seems obvious, but many people don’t make the crucial connections. Two of our puppy class students had questions this week about “problems” with their dogs. Neither realized they were both asking about the same thing in different situations.

Mitzi is a Golden Retriever puppy, five months old, who has earned the nickname “Destroyer of Toys.” Her dad asked what toys he can get that she won’t destroy. It’s getting expensive to replace them constantly, and, sooner or later, Mitzi’s going to wind up at the emergency vet for swallowing something she shouldn’t.

Bingo is a mixed-breed (Golden x Miniature Poodle) five-month-old puppy who barks a lot. Bingo’s older “brother,” Smokey, is teaching him how, since Smokey (9 years old) watches out the front windows and barks all day long.

You have to be there to train your dog

Both of these families have the same problem, but don’t realize it. They’re attempting the impossible – invisible training.

You can’t train your dog if you’re not there. You can’t solve a problem by ignoring it. You have to be there to train your dog.

Get creative with problem solving

The solution to Mitzi’s problem is really easy, but her people never thought of it. She gets no toys unless they are actively playing with her. This will actually work to solve another issue they don’t realize they have. Mitzi has no interest in her “dad.” She never checks in with him, rarely glances at him, and pays no attention unless she has no other choice. Their relationship is tenuous, at best.

Mitzi is a toy destroyer. You have to be there to train your dog. — Mitzi is a toy destroyer

If the only time this toy-obsessed puppy gets to play with toys is when her people are with her, she’ll learn they’re the source of all good things and the bond will grow exponentially. Dogs, especially puppies, don’t have to be busy or entertained all the time. Puppies need lots of sleep and down time. Without constant toy stimulation, Mitzi will have a chance to get the rest she needs to process all the things she’s learning.

Bingo’s a tougher case

Because there’s another, older dog in the house, Bingo is learning both bad and good things from him. To nip Bingo’s barking behavior in the bud, Smokey has to get with the program. And that will depend on how willing his people are to put in the effort.

It seems that Smokey has free run of the house, all day long. He parks himself at the front windows, which are two-stories high, with no blinds.. And he barks at everything he sees, all day long. Bingo is just following Smokey’s lead, learning that barking at everything outside is okay.

Be creative with solutions

Solving the issue requires restricting access to those windows when the family isn’t there to participate in training games. Hope listened to a bunch of “buts:”

But there are no blinds
But it’s an open concept house
But we can’t be there all the time
But they watch through the rail on the second floor

Hearing about the issue for the first time, listening for only a couple of minutes, Hope came up with two viable solutions: On the first floor, get spring-rods and drape sheets across them so the dogs can’t see out. On the second floor, drape the railing so the dogs can’t see out.

Once they manage access, the “Looky Lou” game is perfect. Let the dogs look out the window. If they start to bark, get their attention and reward for looking at you, instead of the barking trigger. If you’re there to explain what you want, your dog will quickly learn. Train one dog at a time. And yes, the nine-year-old dog can learn, too.

Look at whatever your dog’s issue is from an outsider’s point of view. Say it out loud, or pose the question on social media. Or ask us. There’s always a way to manage the behavior until your training takes effect. Your choices for dealing with your dog’s “naughty” behaviors are one of three: Ignore it. Manage it. Train it.

Mitzi’s and Bingo’s families have been ignoring it. Now they know how to manage it. The next step will be how diligent they are in training to “fix” it.

Training Games help dog fitness

It’s always great when you have proof. This week we got expert confirmation that training games help dog fitness.

Tango's training games help his fitness. — Tango’s training games help his fitness.

Fran’s almost-13-year-old Brussels Griffon Tango was sick. Really sick. Spewing out both ends sick. He’s recovering now, so the worry part is over. But while at the veterinarian’s office, the vet said she wasn’t worried about Tango not eating for two days, or a health crisis. Because he’s so fit, his body could cope and recover quickly.

That made an impact. Two sleepless nights and 36 hours of gastrointestinal distress may leave no long-lasting effects because this senior dog is in good shape. Fitness matters, for dogs, too.

Dog fitness plan

It makes sense. Both the body and mind for both dogs and people are “use it or lose it.” Dogs’ bodies are subject to many similar age-related problems as people are. Arthritis, loss of vision, loss of hearing, lessening of balance, etc. But staying active and asking our dogs to do the same can delay or prevent some issues.

Tango’s fitness routine is simple. It takes less than 10 minutes a day. He has a good time, gets treats (when he’s not sick), and even runs over to play his dog training games. If you didn’t know he was almost a teenager, you’d never guess it.

The balance disc “workout” is first every day. You’ll find the details and video in this post: Wellbeing of Dogs. Some days it goes better than others. We didn’t ask Tango to do it when he was sick. And he was a bit wobbly when he got back to it. But he did it happily. He missed the attention, if not the exercise.

Favorite training game

Tango’s favorite dog-training game is “Put your toys away.”

You dump a bunch of dog toys in a pile. The dog’s task is to get each one, pick it up, carry it across the room, and place it in a box.

Tango’s never played with toys, but he loves putting them away. And, because Fran puts the box as far away as the space allows, he gets lots of back-and-forth steps in. The first day he was feeling better, he actually trotted back and forth, so happy to be playing his game again.

Mind and body dog fitness

All dog training games work to help your dog’s fitness. Working your brain is just as important as working your body. Tango may not be able to see very well, but he can think just fine. And, while “Put your toys away” may be an old favorite, it’s also important to introduce new games. Challenging your dog’s mind can help keep it sharp.

It’s easy to take old dogs for granted, assuming they’ll be happy just napping away in the sunshine. But to keep them in the best shape, let them nap after they’ve played their training games.

Good dog training is bad for ratings

There’s absolutely nothing exciting about good dog training. You’re probably never going to see a TV show that features a positive reinforcement trainer. There’s no yelling, no drama, no lunging, growling, or biting. There’s patience, treats, and wonderful moments. Good dog training is bad for ratings – absolutely no suspense.

Good dog training = bad television

Those wonderful moments happen all the time when you’re a positive reinforcement trainer.

One of our students has been having a hard time battling her habit of yanking on her dog’s collar. Especially when her 18-month old, active Miniature Poodle does something she considers naughty. Then, after class, when she was talking to us, her dog started jumping on Hope. And she dropped his leash! It was a wonderful breakthrough for her. She knows herself well enough to know, with leash in hand, she’d pull on her dog. Instead, she dropped it and trusted the training. And it worked! With no response to his jumping, the dog stopped, sat, and was quickly praised and rewarded. It was a two-fer! Both the student and the dog got it right.

But that light-bulb moment, huge though it may have been for the people and dog involved, made for dull watching. Only the people involved knew how huge it was, because it looked like a woman choosing not to control her jumping dog. Just two women standing there, and a jumping dog. No yelling, no motion, nothing dramatic. That’s the way it should be.

Not easy, but worth it

Of course our students have an advantage. We’re there. And while we never administer a correction on a dog, we’re famous for “yelling” at our students. We notice when their past experience and habit has them popping a dog’s collar. We see when they fail to maintain connection with their dogs. And we yell when they miss an opportunity to praise and reward their dogs.

Remember that dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. (“Careful where you put it!“) Behavior that gets attention is more likely to be repeated. So the one phrase our students hear over and over again is: “Doing it right has to look different than getting it wrong.” Give your dog the information he/she needs. Yes, that was good! That’s what I want! Good dog! Here’s a cookie!

Only happy sounds

Oftentimes there’s a lot of chatter with our own dog training games. But it’s never, ever yelling at the dog. While commands are given only once (Sit, Stand, Down, Front), it’s not the only thing the dogs hear. But all of the conversation is upbeat and encouraging; Go get it! Such a smart puppy! Whatcha Gonna Do? Who’s a good boy? Are you the cleverest fellow?

The worst dogs should hear is either a non-reward marker like “Oops!” or a simple phrase like “that’s not it, try again.” As long as your 2-Minute-Dog Training Games are focused and fun, you don’t have to worry about your dog disengaging. They will persist, because they’re having fun, too.

Value of video

While good dog training may not make for suspenseful TV, taking video of your own sessions is great. First off, when you’re in the middle of it, you can’t see how incredibly cute your dog is during the session. So it’s great to have it for posterity.

Secondly, you can see how you did as a trainer. Did you miss a chance to praise your dog? Did you give attention to something you shouldn’t have? Was your energy happy and fun? And did you make doing the right thing look different for your dog every single time? Celebrate every little breakthrough, even if it would make bad TV.

Dog training collars are just another myth

Dog training collars don’t exist. There is no object that can train your dog. You’re the only training gear you and your dog really need.

Traditionally, choke-chain and prong collars were considered training collars. Then came the invention of electronic collars. All of these are threats of punishment, not trainers. You don’t need one to control your dog.

Real training gear

What your dog wears for your training games doesn’t matter. It can be a regular buckle collar, a harness, or nothing at all. Dog training isn’t ever about the “stuff” – although heaven knows we’ve managed to accumulate tons of stuff. It’s about your relationship with your dog. Having fun. Playing games. Building understanding. And growing your bond.

The gear you need is intangible: patience, adaptability, observation, a sense of humor. It’s being willing to pay attention to your dog and the signals he/she gives you. And the ability to try something else when what you’re doing isn’t working.

Collars have their uses

Puppy Booker wears a flat buckle collar with a leash on to begin training. It was not a "dog training collar." — Puppy Booker starting training wearing a flat buckle collar and leash.

When you begin playing training games with your dog, a collar or harness may be useful. You may need to attach a leash to keep your dog in the vicinity at first. We recommend at least a six-foot leash. And all you do is attach it and step on the end to keep the dog relatively close.

Until your dog understands that training games are a fun zone, he/she may attempt to disengage. Remember, depending on what kind of training you’ve experienced in the past, your dog may expect to be corrected or punished for “wrong” answers. To avoid that, your dog may attempt to disengage and leave the area.

In 2-Minute Training games there’s no such thing as punishment. Reward what you like, ignore what you don’t. It will take a while for your dog to understand they can try all kinds of stuff. (We talked about one of Simon’s long-awaited breakthroughs in our article “Stay positive in dog training – results come in time.”) It may not be exactly right, but that’s okay. We just try again.

Naked games

Our dogs, who wear nothing in the house, adore playing training games. When we open the door to the basement where we have our little training area, they all barrel down as fast as they can go. They sometimes try to sneak down if we’ve left the door ajar accidentally.

We love and encourage that enthusiasm. Our morning training games are the best way to start the day – having fun with our dogs. And if a particular game doesn’t go the way we wanted it to, there’s always another opportunity.

Recently, Hope decided to start teaching Torque the Utility Obedience glove retrieve. That exercise has three evenly-spaced work gloves at one end of the room. The judge decides which glove (left, center, or right) the dog must fetch and bring back to the owner. If your dog has a fetch behavior, it seems simple enough.

We learned quickly that it’s more complex than that. Torque was stumped. He had no idea what to do with the gloves – he’d never seen them before. With 2-Minute Training games, we easily adapted and took it back to basics.

Torque’s next game was just getting familiar with work gloves. Hope put them on the floor and sat close by. Torque got a click and reward for any interaction with the gloves. Looking at them. Pawing at them. Moving them. After three clicks at each stage, Hope waited for Torque to do something else. Within just a couple of minutes, when putting a paw on the glove no longer got him a click, he moved on to mouthing them, picking them up, even carrying them a step or two.

Clothes don’t make the dog

Even though he didn’t get it “right” – Torque stayed right with the game because he’s not afraid to try new things. That’s because he’s never been punished with a dog training collar, or anything else.He plays naked, as do all our dogs. He stays and plays because he loves it, not because he’s compelled.

Don’t diminish your dog’s spirit with the constant fear of being wrong. You want your dog engaged, happy, learning new things, and eager to participate in training games. It’s such a joy to see dogs fulfilling their potential, making good choices, engaging with their families. Being the family member you dreamed of when you got your dog.