dog training made fun Archives

Try it without treats

One of our videos got a little traction this week on Tik Tok and we were fortunate to have quite a few people comment. Most were lovely, just hearts and admiration for Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog. It’s always nice when somebody else thinks your dog is as wonderful as you do. But there were also more than a few that implied his only motivation was the treats. And challenging us to “prove” he can do it without rewards. “Try it without treats” they said.

A different perspective

We know that Torque would play training games just for the fun of it. Would he be as eager? Probably not. And how would we communicate to him when he’s right? And when he’s not?

One of the first things we tell all our trainees is “Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards.” We say it early and often. Those rewards give your dog the immediate feedback: “Yes! That was good!” Withholding the rewards tells your dog “That’s not quite it. Try again.”

Many people seem to think that praise should be sufficient reward or motivation. Let’s put that in perspective.

For example: you have a great job in a great place with terrific colleagues. Everything about your job is great. Is a pat on the back from your boss sufficient reward? It’s really nice, but don’t you still want a paycheck?

Proving it to who?

Our response when challenged to create a video without using rewards was: Why should we?

The person came back with “To prove you can do it.”

To whom? And why? We’re not claiming that Torque is unique among dogs. Our goal is to encourage everyone to play training games with their own dogs. Because every single dog loves doing it. And everybody, dogs and people alike, has fun.

The challenge is seeing what your dog can do. Dogs have favorite games, just like people. Some dogs learn Puppy Push-ups in a week. Their 3-Step Pattern Walking takes no time at all. But they just can’t get the hang of “Place!” Or “Stay!”

The only opinion that matters

When you play training games and teach your dog only with reward-based training, there will be loads of people who “know a better, faster way.”

It’s absolutely true that punishment-based training is faster. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. If you’re okay with hurting your dog to achieve quick compliance, there are lots of trainers who teach “yank and crank” methods. But not in this space. And not in our classes.

No treats allowed

There are no treats or rewards allowed during dog sport competitions. You can’t bring anything into the competition ring but your dog. For those few minutes of judging, the dog gets no “reward” other than your smile.

If you’ve built sufficient value in the process, your dog will do what you ask. Just partnering with you, doing familiar, fun things will be enough. And, when your time in the competition ring is over, you can run over to your trial set-up and give your wonderful dog the jackpot they deserve.

Training a Stubborn Dog

It’s astonishingly easy to train a stubborn dog. You just have to keep one fact in mind: Dogs always do what’s most rewarding to them.

That’s true no matter what the circumstances. Dogs may not consciously or visibly weigh the options and “choose” to misbehave. But if what they get for being “good” isn’t as good as what being “bad” gets them, guess what happens?

Figuring it out

Your dog will show you what’s most valuable to them. Our dogs will figuratively walk through fire to get Chicken Heart Treats. It’s at the top of their reward list.

Second on the list for Simon is celery. Booker, on the other hand, thinks celery is disgusting and won’t go near it. If we ask Booker to do something and he knows celery is waiting, he’s not going to do it. Knowing this, we don’t ask.

Not always treats

Dogs are unique individuals with their own preferences. Each one’s motivation will be different. Simon and Booker are both Boston Terriers and are related. But their tastes are as different as can be.

Your dog may not be food motivated at all. But there’s got to be something that they love. Tossing a ball can be a reward. Playing tug can be your dog’s reward. Belly rubs can be a reward. Use what your dog wants to get what you want.

It’s deal-making

Training is a kind of bargain you make with your dog – even a to train a stubborn dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a great deal for everyone.

You have to stick to the agreement. If you start taking your dog for granted, they’ll stop holding up their end. Once your dog knows how to do something, you may not have to reward every time. Once your dog knows “Puppy Push-ups” you don’t have to reward every change of position. But there has to be something in it for them at some point.

From the dog’s perspective

You may wonder, “if dogs always do what’s most rewarding, why do they obey force trainers?” The answer is simple. The dog’s “reward” is not being punished. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. That’s why force training is faster than positive reinforcement. Dogs aren’t stupid.

Dogs also deserve better. Once you appreciate how easy and fun it is to play training games, it’s addictive for both of you. So many of our students have told us how their dogs “nag” them to go play.

This or that?

Sometimes the behavior you’re asking for isn’t as rewarding as what the dog wants to do. We saw a good example recently making the “bowling” video with Torque. We used a big plastic bottle to demonstrate the first steps of the game. When it came time to show the actual game, Torque thought the big plastic bottle was more fun. He made a beeline for it, rather than knock down the pins.

He was showing Hope that the crunchy-sounding bottle was more fun, more rewarding than playing with her. She didn’t get mad, or accuse him of being stubborn. He was doing what was most rewarding at the time. She just reminded him that playing with her was also fun and rewarding.

Stubborn or clueless?

Motivation isn’t always the answer. Sometimes dogs truly don’t understand what their person wants. It could be a different place, or person, or situation that’s throwing off their game. Or it could be they really don’t know.

If that’s the case, you may see your dog disengage, walk away, turn their head, go sniff, scratch, yawn, or even just sit or lie down. These are indicators that your dog doesn’t want to make the “wrong” choice, but doesn’t know what you want. If you see this, back up a step or two, assess what’s different, and help them work through it. It’s not being stubborn. It’s confusion.

Rely on motivators

When you know what motivates your dog, your training gets a whole lot easier. If your dog doesn’t think dog biscuits are worth sitting for, don’t use dog biscuits. Go to the trouble of figuring out what’s most rewarding for your dog. Use it. And be amazed when your formerly stubborn dog is no longer stubborn.

10 Dog Training Tips

Dogs are smart. They’re learning sponges, eager to absorb whatever you want to teach them. Use these 10 dog training tips and the sky’s the limit for you and your dog!

Everyone, dogs included, learns better and retains more when they’re having fun. Training isn’t a chore, it’s a chance to have fun with your dog.

Dog training isn’t tedious or prolonged. Short, fast, fun training games work. Concentrate on training for a few minutes at a time, ideally no more than five.

Dogs need time to process and absorb what they learn. Just because your dog didn’t get it today, doesn’t mean they won’t be brilliant later or tomorrow.

Vary your posture, place, and the dog’s position. If you do the same thing the same way all the time, that’s the only way the dog will know it. The classic example is “Sit!” Most people face their dogs, hold a treat up, and say “Sit!” If the dog is beside them, they don’t get it.

You don’t get to decide what your dog’s favorite things are. You may not like that your dog hates the expensive treats you got, but you have to accept it. If your dog prefers celery to salmon, use the celery. If they prefer toys to food, use toys as their reward.

Be patient. Whatever behavior you’re trying to modify is probably a habit. Changing a habit is hard and takes lots of determination. See last week’s 2-Minute Tip for more about patience!

Dogs don’t understand “sometimes” or “close enough.” If the dog sits when you ask for a “Down!” and you accept it, your dog will never understand either one. Set clear criteria and stick to them. That’s not being mean, it’s helping the dog understand.

Be honest with your dog. If you’re planning to give them a bath, don’t call them to get a cookie. If you’re leaving the house, don’t sneak out. Dog’s trust is easily broken.

Relax and enjoy. Training your dog is an ongoing and life-long process. You’re not trying to achieve anything except having the biggest, best life with your best friend.

Your dog wants to learn. Giving them the chance to live up to their potential is a gift to them. Dogs like knowing stuff. It helps them understand and cope with our human world.

Whether you’re aiming for relaxing walks around the neighborhood or the highest level of dog sports competition, these 10 dog training tips will come in handy. Nobody has to have a dog. You decided to get a dog for fun and company. They’re great at that. They’re also happier when you teach them the skills they need to be good dogs.

Foundation Dog Games #5: Puppy Push-ups

Puppy Push-ups is our absolute favorite dog training game. Every class we teach, from Puppy Basics to Competition Obedience, starts with everybody doing Puppy Push-ups with their dogs.

Why? The game is fast. It’s fun. And, it’s the best game for teaching dogs the position words. Dogs love it because there’s a high rate of reward. And everyone who interacts with your dog will love that your dog knows Puppy Push-ups.

What is Puppy Push-ups?

Puppy Push-ups is just a random, rapid sequence of “Sit!”, “Stand”, and “Down.” The faster you play, the more fun it is for everyone.

Most Puppy Push-ups games alternate only between “Sit!” And “Down!” With only two positions to choose from, dogs may not understand the words. They just know if it’s not this one, it’s that one. By adding the “Stand!” To the mix, your dog actually listens. They learn which word means what. Most dogs aren’t taught “Stand!” But we don’t know why. Your dog’s groomer and veterinarian will love it. And so will you.

How to teach the positions

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. In this case, they already know “how,” so that’s not a problem. What we have to teach is associating the word with the position.

This is one of the few cases where we actually will lure the dog in order to get them to move into the right position. This is where the timing and placement of rewards comes in.

For the “Sit!”, hold a treat at your dog’s nose and slowly move it up and slightly back. Dog’s anatomy dictates that when the head comes up, the butt goes down. As your dog’s butt hits the floor, tell them it’s a “good Sit!” Or “That’s Sit!” Be sure you use the position word “Sit!” Almost everyone says “Good girl (or boy)!” Instead of “good Sit!” To teach the word you have to use the word.

For the “Stand!” hold a treat at your dog’s standing nose level and slowly move it away from your dog, keeping it at the same level. Most people move too quickly and don’t give their dogs a chance to get their hind end moving. Be patient. Hold the treat level and steady, but don’t give it to the dog until they’re actually standing. Same deal – be sure to say “Good Stand!” Not “Good Dog!”

“Down!” Is rewarded between the dog’s front legs as they’re lying on the floor. Again, start at the dog’s nose level and slowly bring it down to the floor. Be patient – stay exactly where you are until your dog is actually lying down.

What could go wrong

The most common issue is the dog not sustaining any position after the reward is delivered. Avoid this “one and done” syndrome by giving your dog multiple rewards for maintaining the position. Have two or three treats ready. If your dog stays in position, keep rewarding and saying “That’s Sit!” Or “Good Sit!” (Or Stand! or Down!). Then either give them another position or say their release word.

At first, give your dog a reward for every single position change. And as your dog learns the game, speed it up. The faster it goes, the better. It gets more fun for both of you. Be sure to randomize the three positions. It will show you whether your dog truly knows the words or if they need more practice.

That practice is easily incorporated into your daily life. Have a container of treats in every room in the house. When you enter a room, notice what your dog is doing, name it and reward it. It won’t take long for your dog to learn the words.

Throw in some curves

Once you’re pretty sure your dog knows Puppy Push-ups, you can start changing it up to keep it new and interesting. Try it with your dog beside you. Or between your legs. Even try it with your dog behind you. Build distance. How far away can you be and still have your dog do their Push-ups?

Dogs start loving this game pretty easily. They don’t have to do anything scary or new. They get lots of treats. And it makes you happy.

You can use Puppy Push-ups anywhere and anytime you need your dog’s attention. Or when you want them to switch gears into “work” mode. That’s why it’s a great start for every dog training class.

Dog Training Game: Middling

We mean that quite literally. This game is to teach your dog to stand between your legs, facing the same way you are. It’s a great position to teach them, especially if there are times when your dog is nervous. The dog training game: Middling shouldn’t be confused with hiding, which should not be encouraged. “Middling” is a safe space, but it’s not a hideaway for timid dogs.

It’s a recent variant we’ve been using for our Puppy Pushups practice. Once your dog knows the positions “Sit!”, “Stand!” and “Down!”, there are only so many combinations you can use. If they know the words, the game can get a bit boring if you let it. We’ve come up with lots of ways of playing; just words, just hand signals, varying distance, etc. And the dogs took each one in stride and mastered it in no time.

But when we tried straddling our dogs, it was as if they’d never heard the words before. You never know how dogs will react to a new scenario until you try it.

Get them centered

If you’ve never tried standing with one leg on either side of your dog, you may be surprised by how freaked out they are. You can almost hear them thinking “What’s this about? You’re being weird!”

So rather than weirding them out, play a preliminary game of “Toss Through.” This is a fast, easy game for most dogs. All you do is stand in front of your dog with your legs wide enough apart that your dog can run through. Show your dog a treat, toss it through your legs, and tell your dog to get it. Then, when your dog’s behind you, bend over, looking through your legs, catch your dog’s eye and toss a treat the other way, so your dog runs between your legs back to front.

It doesn’t take most dogs more than a couple tosses to fall in love with this game. Just be sure the treat you’re using is visible, so your dog can easily find it. If your dog isn’t particularly treat-motivated, you can certainly toss a toy instead.

Next step

Once your dog loves running back and forth through your legs, it’s time to introduce a “Stop!” in the middle. The easiest way to do this is, with your dog behind you, show them the treat and bring them forward. Raise the treat as they come through your legs and say “Sit!” If all goes well, the dog should be right under you. If so, reward.

If not, chances are your dog thought it was too odd and swung their butt around so they’re facing you. That’s the favorite position for most dogs – keeping an eye on you at all times. You can remedy this by giving them a designated spot for the “Sit!”.

If you haven’t taught your dog “Place!”, now’s the time. Get a small towel, or mat large enough only for the dog to sit on. One of our favorite training tools is a cheap yoga mat that we cut into whatever shapes and sizes we need. That’s ideal for this training.

When your dog knows “Place!”, position the mat between your feet and try again. The similar context will give your dog the information they need to understand. When you’ve achieved the “Sit!,” go for the “Down!” and “Stand!” as well. The mat really helped Simon to understand the new dog training game: middling.

Everything in its place

Just a subtle change, like changing your positions, can throw your dog for a loop. Remember they’re contextual learners. When the context changes, everything’s different. By teaching your dog different variables of familiar behaviors, you increase their understanding and ability to generalize. “Sit!” always means the same thing, no matter where you are or what you’re doing. Teaching dogs how to be flexible and “go with the flow” will add confidence to every aspect of life.

Training your hyper dog

If you’ve been told your dog is too hyper for training, you’ve been sold a bill of goods and should demand your money back immediately. No dog benefits more. The whole point of training is to have your dog know how to act, in public or private, regardless of how revved up they are.

Nothing about dog training should be boring, calm, tedious, or rigid. It should be fun and fast, noisy and full of laughter. Your dog should know it’s okay, even good, to get excited. Dogs are all about fun. Training games are just another way to play with them. It has the side benefit of turning them into great companions who know their boundaries and listen to their people. Even when their excitement level is through the roof.

Rev ‘em up

If you’ve ever attended or watched an agility competition, you’ve seen handlers playing tug with their dogs as they wait to go in the ring. The objective is to get their dogs excited to run. The most successful dogs are not only excited and fast, but also paying attention to their people. Dogs are capable of listening, even in a high energy state.

Some of the training games (Touch, Throw Your Dog Away) are designed to get your dog excited. When you want your dog’s most intense focus on you – play a fast, fun training game. As long as you’re part of the equation, excitement is exactly what you want.

Don’t calm down

Stop telling your dog to calm down. It doesn’t work and it isn’t going to happen. Replace that mentality with one that works. Teach your dog to channel that excitement into something that makes you both happy. While not every hyper dog is destined to be an agility, obedience, or dog sport competitor, they can all learn to channel their energy so they don’t make you crazy.

We know what we’re talking about. We have Boston Terriers. And while not every Boston is hyper, we’ve been lucky enough to have a couple (okay, all) who are. Booker, at 11 years old, is now retired. He also has multiple Obedience, Rally, and Agility titles. That didn’t happen because we trained him to be calm. He’s not capable of being calm. It happened because he learned how to channel his energy productively.

Listen through the buzz

How do you get your hyper dog to play training games? All dogs, even hyper ones, always do what’s most rewarding to them. It’s up to you to be the most interesting thing around. Up your energy level. Talk in an excited voice. Move suddenly. Run away. Engage your dog. Have incredibly high-value treats.

Getting your hyper dog to pay attention for a 2-Minute Training Game isn’t hard. Two minutes. That’s all. And concentrating hard for those two minutes will probably tire out your hyper dog for quite a while. Thinking can be exhausting. Especially when it’s a new challenge you’re asking your dog to meet.

Set limits

Just as you want your hyper dog to get excited to play with you, they need to understand there are limits. That’s where setting the timer for your 2-Minute Training games comes in. The dog will learn that the game is over when the timer goes off. Dogs like routine. They love knowing what to expect. It won’t take long for them to know that the timer’s ring means the game’s over.

Show your dog what the timer’s ring means. Say something like “That’s all!” when it goes off. And stop playing immediately. Put away the treats and the clicker. Turn off the timer and leave the training space. Even if you’re playing in the kitchen, leaving the area will reinforce the idea that game time is over.

More benefits

Enforcing a limit will also teach your dog to switch gears and reset their emotional state. Since we tend to train each of our dogs individually, in turn, the dogs who are not playing are in their crates. This helps them differentiate between playtime and relaxing time. If you can make the break between “work” time and “relax” time a physical difference, it helps the dog. Move into another room. Take a walk. Make a clear differentiation between the two modes.

Your hyper dog can’t help being that way. Exuberant, energetic dogs can be challenging. They’re also fun, affectionate, and eager to play with you. Take advantage of the traits you love. Teach them control to take care of the others.

Play “Throw Your Dog Away!”

We get puzzled looks when we ask people how they play with their dogs. Or if they play “Throw Your Dog Away.”

It’s odd how many people don’t really know how to play with their dogs. We’re not talking about “Fetch!” games. For the most part, you being there isn’t even necessary. The person part of “Fetch!” could be easily replaced by an automatic ball launcher. It’s not you the dog is engaging with. It’s the ball. Or whatever toy they’re fetching.

There’s no doubt the dog is having fun. The person’s “fun” is more about finding joy in seeing your dog getting some exercise, having a good time, and probably even smiling at you. There’s also the dealing with the slimy toy part. And the clean-up that follows, especially on rainy days.

Strive for engagement

The good part about playing “Fetch!” with your dog is that you’re there. When we ask students if they play with their dogs, one of the answers we always hear is “My dog has a ton of toys. But he/she doesn’t play with them.” That’s because, past puppy stage, dog toys that just lie around aren’t very interesting.

When dog puzzle toys started appearing, they were marketed as “interactive” toys. We’re still trying to figure that out. Once you fill the compartments with treats, your part is over. The dog interacts with the toy, not with you. And that relationship ends as soon as the treats are uncovered and consumed.

Bond by playing together

If the whole substance of your time spent together is you either telling your dog what to do, or watching while they do stuff, it’s a pale reflection of what your bond could be. Some of the most satisfying moments with your dog are when you’re so in sync that it’s like you read each other’s thoughts. Whether that’s heading to the kitchen at the same time to get a drink, moving as a unit around a Rally Obedience Course, or even just yawning together and heading for bed, it’s a pretty great feeling.

So what game can you play, just the two of you, to build that relationship? There are lots of little “kitchen games” that help. Touch, Watch, Puppy Push Ups all work. All of those are great for attention and focus. But what if you just want to have some fun with your dog? No pressure to achieve anything. Just playing around? It’s time for “Throw Your Dog Away!”

How to play

First off, know that this is a vigorous game and can get quite loud. Also painful. One of our puppy class people loved the game – until those sharp puppy teeth put a gouge in his arm. Puppy teeth are razor sharp. Exercise a bit of caution if your puppy doesn’t have excellent bite inhibition.

All you need for this game is you and your dog. That’s it. Not even any rewards. Your dog should love playing this game all by itself. And it’s easy. You’re probably already doing parts of it.

Get down to your dog’s level, whether that’s sitting on the floor, bending over, or kneeling. Start ruffling up their fur and talking excitedly. You want to build up your dog’s excitement to play with you.

Then, when your dog’s engaged with you, put a hand on their chest and push them away – “throw” your dog away. At first your dog may be a little confused, but they’ll come around quickly and rebound right back for more.

Silly dialogue

When we play this game with our dogs we keep up a constant dialogue. As the dog’s coming back for more, we say ridiculous things like “What are you coming back for? Do you think I want you? I’m going to throw you away again!”

Most dogs, once they figure out you’re playing, do an adorable little lift onto their haunches and bounce back at you. Dogs love the direct engagement and contact.
That’s all there is to the game. Your dog bounces at you and you bounce them right back. As mentioned, this game can be very stimulating, especially for puppies. Keep an eye on your dog and if the arousal level is too high, it’s time to lower the temperature. A quick game of “Watch!” or “Touch!” should do the trick.

Mix and Match Your Dog Training

The beauty part of slicing your dog training into small pieces is that you can put them together however you want. If you teach your dog what “hold” means, they’ll know how to hold anything, given an opportunity. You can mix and match your dog training into whatever new tricks or games you like.

One of the AKC Trick Dog behaviors is to open a cabinet or drawer. While simple for some dogs – just tie a cloth to the handle and the dog will pull on it, it’s proven difficult for Hope’s French Bulldog Torque.

But he does know some of the pieces. While he’s not great at tugging, he does know “hold” and “back up.” Put those two things together and, in theory, he should get the “Open It” trick pretty quickly.

Expectation vs. Reality

In fact, it’s taking a while to put it together. The string Hope’s using around the drawer handle isn’t at all familiar to Torque and he’s not sure what to make of it. Puzzling this out, Hope put it in with a bunch of things Torque knows to pick things up, hold, and “put away.”

Figuring out how to communicate with your dog is more than half the battle. Using a familiar “Put Your Stuff Away” game to get him used to picking up and carrying the string was one step. Another section will be getting him to “Hold” and “Back Up!” at the same time. The only time he’s put the two together before was for the dumbbell retrieve.

Listen, don’t assume

The formal dumbbell retrieve works like this:

dog sits at heel
dog stays
handler tosses dumbbell
handler releases dog
dog gets dumbbell
dog comes to handler holding dumbbell
dog sits in front of handler holding dumbbell
dog releases dumbbell into handler’s hand on command
dog returns to heel on command

That’s always the way the dumbbell retrieve happens in competition. Everyone knows that, including the dog. When dogs always know what comes next, they sometimes skip to the end, dropping the dumbbell prematurely, or returning to heel position before they’re told.

To prevent the dog from “assuming,” we mix it up in practice. Sometimes the dog has to hold the dumbbell while returning to heel. Sometimes the dog has to heel while holding the dumbbell. Sometimes we heel with a “back up” thrown in.

That’s where Torque has learned to hold something while backing up. Now we take advantage of what he knows and expand it to hold anything and back up at the same time.

Pieces fit together

If you’ve already taught your dog pieces of any trick you want to teach, you can mix and match however you want. It’s the same “Hold!” chunk for whatever object. Dogs catch on pretty quickly when you put new ideas in a familiar context.

Mix and match your dog training

To create new tricks and behaviors, think about the little pieces your dog already knows. You can grow all the bits by using familiar objects in new places, or with new goals. Or new objects with familiar places and goals. Either one lets you put together a whole new game, just by using a mix and match recipe.

Get your dog’s head in the game

How do you get your dog’s head in the game? When it’s time to play training games, do you have a regular time and place? Do you put your dog’s collar or harness on? How do you let your dog know it’s time to go have some fun?

You already know that dogs love routines and schedules. You can bet that if you follow the same routine every day, your dog will know when it’s time to play. And if it doesn’t happen, they’ll probably let you know they’re not happy about it.

But what if your life’s schedule doesn’t allow for a regular training “date” with your dog? You can still use a routine to get your dog’s head in the game.

Start with a warm-up game

While two minutes is a great, intense training session, it’s more of a guideline than an absolute. There are games, especially those with some set-up and complex behavior chains, that are better if you play a bit longer. Other training games, once you and your dog know them, are great to play for a minute or less – like a warm-up to the main event.

Use those quickie games to start every session and get your dog’s focus on playing with you. Most of our group classes start with a timed minute of Puppy Pushups. Just that fast, random calling of “Sit!” “Stand!” and “Down!” gets your dog’s attention. The faster you play, the more rewards your dog gets, the better engagement you’ll get. It may be just an opener to the main act, but that doesn’t mean it has no value.

If your dog is accustomed to performing familiar behaviors quickly, they don’t even have to think about it. When you say “Sit!” your dog’s butt will hit the floor fast. Likewise with “Down!” and “Stand!” If you ever do intend to indulge in dog sports like Obedience and Rally, it’s wonderful if neither of you has to worry about those commands. As soon as you say it, your dog won’t even have to think. They’ll automatically do it, just like when you play your Puppy Pushups game.

Keep them fresh

Using the most useful games as part of your speedy warm-up will keep them front of mind for your dog. You’ll be able to use them when you most need them. “Touch!” can be a warm-up. It’s also the one you want to keep fresh when you spot the squirrel before your dog does. Or the guy comes into the veterinarian’s waiting room with a cat in a carrier. Those little training games are useful, even if you never plan on a dog sport career.

One of the many reasons to play daily training games with your dog is to make life easier. Both of you will react better if you have a fall-back to rely on in stressful situations. If it’s an ingrained habit to play “Touch!” you’re more likely to remember it when you need it. After all, habit is the most powerful force in the universe.

“Push Me, Pull You” teaches dogs “Hold it!”

All dogs are really “Push Me, Pull You” dogs. When your dog pulls on leash or tugs on a toy, they’re demonstrating what’s called the “opposition reflex.” While it may not be a real reflex, it is a trait that all dogs (and people!) have. Since it’s there, you may as well take advantage of it.

Simply put, it’s what happens when the dog resists being pushed or pulled. One way we test our dogs “Stay!” performance was to gently pull on the leash. The dogs resist the pressure to move. That uses their opposition reflex to further their understanding of what “Stay!” means.

You can also see it at work if you ever practice a “restrained recall.” That’s when someone holds your dog while you run away from the dog, calling to them. There’s nothing that gets most dogs revved up better. When dogs seem distracted and out of focus in obedience class, we use a restrained, or chase, recall to turn that around. You’ve also seen it at the start of any horse race, with the starting gate as the restraint. The dog sport Fast CAT uses it, too. Somebody holds the dog back at the start line while the lure speeds ahead.

Better, faster, stronger

The best way to teach your dog is to take advantage of their natural instincts. Whether the opposition reflex is a physical fact doesn’t matter. What does matter is that it works and you can use it in your training.

Say you want to teach your dog to hold something. Someone we know taught her dogs to hold a white board. She got a lot of mileage out of that behavior on social media. Think of the smiles you’d get if that’s how you made an announcement – just writing it on a white board and getting your dog to hold it.

Hold it!

So – how do you get your dog to hold onto something? We wrote about one way of teaching this, but here’s another: Make use of the opposition reflex. Teach the concept of hold when you play tug. It goes along with teaching the “Drop it!” command. If you’re putting pressure on the object your dog is holding, their instinct is to hold onto it with everything they’ve got. If you release all the pressure on the object, they’re more likely to drop it.

Start small, with something that has value for your dog, but not their favorite toy. If your dog doesn’t naturally love to play tug, start there. Most people think their dogs will be attracted to toys moving rapidly, flapped around in their faces. That’s not the way to do it. Instead, use your dog’s predator genetics and get them to stalk and pounce on your tug toy. Move it slowly, on the ground, back and forth. If your dog doesn’t respond right away, up the ante by gently touching their front paws as you sway the toy back and forth. Wiggle it, but not quickly.

Hope’s first agility dog was a French Bulldog named Dax. Dax didn’t tug. Had no interest in toys. But tugging is a great way to get your dog amped up and ready to play with you. Also, her agility instructor insisted that dogs must play tug with their people. Hope had to find the irresistible tuggy for Dax.

While she didn’t care about toys, she was highly food motivated. Dax’s push-me pull-you came roaring out when Hope used semi-limp celery for a tug object. Each rib may only have lasted a few minutes, but it got the job done.

Push Me Pull You Dogs

When your dog tugs, they naturally shift their weight back and resist your exertion. Keeping up a gentle pressure encourages your dog to hang on. Easing the pressure, without entirely letting go, turns into a “Hold it!” If your dog drops the object, start again. Try to figure out where your dog is letting go, and try to keep the pressure level just above that at first.

When your dog is hanging on to the toy, encourage them to move with you a little bit at a time. By incrementally decreasing your hold on the toy, while getting your dog to move, you’re building the dog’s hold and carry skills.

Once you and your dog are successfully holding and moving with the toy, it’s time to go back to the start using different objects; other toys, maybe a spoon, a tote bag with handles, and that white board. Whatever you’d like your dog to hold, introduce step by step. And we take advantage of the fact that all dogs are “push me pull you” dogs!

Don’t be quiet!

We’ve noticed that people seem reluctant to talk to their dogs in group classes. But providing feedback to your dog throughout your training game sessions is crucial. Dogs learn words by hearing them in context. Give your dog the words; “Hold it!” “Good Hold!” “That’s Hold it!” Use whatever word works for you. You get to decide what words mean to your dog.

Once your dog is fairly conversant with a new game or behavior doesn’t mean it’s time to stop talking. Keep talking to let them know you’re engaged in the game, too. If your dog drops the object, don’t repeat a command “Hold!” Instead, ask them “What were you doing?” “What’s the game?” And wait. This is the most difficult part for most people. But letting your dog think things through is essential for learning. When they come up with the right answer and pick up the toy, praise and reward.