Dog Training Plan B

There is no “one size fits all” to dog training. Your first attempt at training a new behavior may work, but dog training needs a “Plan B.”

One of the nifty things about dog training is that you can see it working. You can see the dog thinking, trying to solve the puzzle. And they love the process of problem-solving. Dogs trained with games are always happy to try. But what if the dog can’t do it? It’s time to present the question in a different way.

Dog Training Plan A

Cagney, the exuberant black lab mix pup.
Cagney, the exuberant black lab mix pup

We were visiting with family this past week and got to meet their 10-month-old Black Lab mix puppy.  Cagney is a really nice puppy. He gets along with their 14-year-old Pom mix, their small children, and is a happy, friendly pup. Who jumps to say hi. And to steal stuff off the counters.

When we came in, Cagney greeted us by jumping up. He’s a tall boy – his front paws were easily able to rest on our shoulders. An exuberant, but rude, greeting

And, like almost every puppy owner out there, our cousin reached for Cagney’s collar, pulled him away, and said “No jumping.” Needless to say, as soon as she released the collar, he was jumping again.

When asked, our cousin gave us the go-ahead to try something else. So we started the tried-and-true method of turning our backs on Cagney. He loved the game. He just followed us around in circles to jump some more. Apparently, there’s a lot of spinning in circles with little kids around. Cagney had fun, but it didn’t work as a “stop jumping” game.

Shifting to a new plan

Dogs always follow the path that’s most rewarding for them. Cagney’s goal was to get our attention. And, from his perspective, he succeeded. His jumping has always gotten him attention – either from the person he was jumping on, or from his people getting hold of him. Either way, his goal was met. 

We had to shift his thinking. Another way of stopping a dog’s attention-grabbing behavior is just to leave the vicinity. Walking away from the dog takes away the game and usually stops it cold. But Cagney is, once again, accustomed to the behavior of small children, who constantly run around. That method wouldn’t work with him.

The response to Cagney’s jumping is to stop everything. Movement, conversation, looking, grabbing, everything. We folded our arms and stared at the ceiling. Cagney didn’t understand at first, pawing at our arms, and jumping. This is where the hardest part of dog training comes in. We just stood there, silently. In just a few moments, Cagney’s puzzlement (or frustration), caused him to just sit. And he was immediately praised, rewarded, petted, and fussed over. He attempted to jump. Arms folded, eyes on the ceiling. He sat again. Praise, pets, and treats.

Not a doggy genius

And just like that, with only a couple of repetitions, Cagney got the idea. There were a couple of times over the next few hours that he forgot himself and jumped. But he learned just that fast – when he wanted our attention, he came over and sat. The “be patient and ignore” method also works with nuisance barking as a Plan A or a Plan B.

Is the jumping problem “solved?” No, not yet. It will take a while before the 10 months of jumping is overridden by the new sitting behavior. If our cousin doesn’t keep it up, it won’t last at all. And until it’s a habit to greet people by sitting, our cousin will have to get all visitors to “fold and stare.” And reward heavily every time he successfully sits instead of jumping.

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. When Cagney makes the right decision to sit, praise has to be almost instantaneous for him to make the connection. Puppies especially have a very short attention span, and if there’s a lag between behavior and praise, the link may not take.

Planning ahead

The reason we have a variety of games to play for almost every dog behavior is so we can adapt to the dogs we meet. What works for one dog, may not work for another. Just like people, they have different learning styles, different experiences, and different knowledge sets. 

If the game you’re playing with your dog isn’t getting results, think about what’s going on, how the dog is reacting, and what you can do to change it. Just like when you’re talking with someone who isn’t understanding what you’re saying, find a different way to express it. There are lots of ways to do almost anything. The right one is the one that works.

Pick it up! dog training game

Lots of dog-training games start with the dog picking something up. For many dogs, getting them to ignore something on the floor is harder to do than grabbing it. If your dog’s in this group, now you have a way of putting their natural curiosity to work. We touched on the “Pick it up!” dog training game in relation to Obedience dumbbell work.

Since dogs don’t have hands, their way of checking something out is first to sniff, then to taste. Exploring their world is generally a good thing – as long as you’re there to pull the not-so-good things out of their mouths. We know one puppy who took four different trips to the emergency veterinarian because: Socks! 

Torque loves the "Pick it up!" dog training game.
Torque loves the “Pick it up!” dog training game.

Assuming that your dog’s a picker-upper kind of dog, getting them to do it for the Pick It Up! game is simple. Assemble a bunch of different “stuff” from around the house. Try to vary the shapes and materials. Include plastic, wood, metal, fabric – whatever you can find. For obvious reasons, don’t use anything that can’t be easily cleaned. We use various kitchen utensils and items destined for recycling. The kitchen stuff can go in the dishwasher, and the recycling will still be recycled if/when it gets broken. A recent 2-Minute Trainer “Spotlight” video featured Torque putting his cans in separate containers.

How to Play “Pick It Up!”

Have your treats and clicker ready. Start by placing one object, say a wooden spoon, on the floor. When your dog looks at it, click and reward. Clicker-trained dogs know when they hear that sound that they’re on the right track. Reward close to the spoon so the dog knows the spoon is important in this game. Dogs learn by association. When your dog sees that you’re interested in the spoon, that you reward for interaction with it, he/she will quickly learn to be interested in it, too. So if your dog isn’t interested in looking at the spoon, much less picking it up, just be patient and stare at the spoon. Lean over to emphasize your focus on that spoon.

Chances are your dog will look at the spoon just to see what you find so fascinating. You may even get a semi-frustrated “Lady, are you crazy?” look from them. That’s okay. If you stay where you are and just wait, your dog will look at the spoon. Click and reward!

Dogs repeat what’s rewarded. What gets rewarded, gets repeated. When your dog’s looked at the spoon and been rewarded three times, it’s time for you to ask for more. Your two minutes are probably spent by now, so save it for the next time you play.

Be patient

Next time you play “Pick It Up!” your dog’s probably going to run straight for that spoon and stare at it. But it’s time for the next step, which is getting the dog to touch it with their mouth. Many dogs will paw at something, rather than pick it up. It’s time for you to be patient. Stare at the spoon. If you’re soft-hearted when it comes to your dog (and who isn’t?), give a click and treat for that initial look. Then wait patiently and encourage your dog to do something else. Lean over and stare at the spoon. 

Resist the temptation to click and treat if your dog uses their paws. That’s not what we’re looking for with this game, and you may wind up confusing your dog if you reward pawing. If they try it, just be encouraging, but make it clear that’s not the behavior you want. “That’s okay, dog, but not what we want. Can you try something else?”

Some dogs get frustrated and try to disengage or get a little wild. If your dog disengages, have them on leash to play. At least they’ll stay in the vicinity. Keep staring at the spoon – your dog will come back and try again, as long as you’re patient and encouraging. If your dog tends to lose focus and start messing around, play a game they know, like “Touch!” to get their head back in the game.

Hardest part of dog training

You’ve heard us say, many times, that the hardest thing in dog training is doing nothing. This is one of those hard times. And if the timer goes off after your 2 Minutes, and your dog hasn’t touched the spoon with their mouth, that’s okay. You’ll try again another time, starting again from the look.

You want your dog to be successful. But this initial stage is where your dog does the most learning. If you “help” by handing your dog the spoon, or pointing at it and saying “get it, get it!” you’re not letting your dog learn. You’re depriving them of the chance to solve the puzzle. And the joy of figuring it out themselves.

Sooner or later, your dog will touch the spoon with his/her mouth. Click and reward! Three times. Then ask for more. The next step is to pick it up. Success! Call it something – “Good Pick Up!” “That’s Pick Up!” or whatever you want to call the game. Use something that’s easy for you to remember.

What next?

When your dog is successfully picking up the initial object, he/she may drop it as soon as they hear the click. That’s okay. That’s what this game is about. Adding on more behaviors such as holding it, carrying it, putting it someplace else, are all different games you can play with your dog.

The next step for “Pick it Up!” is to play with other objects. Different shapes, materials, and placements around the room, then around the house. You can even name the objects for your dog. Studies have shown that dogs can understand names of things, if you want to teach it. Again, so that your dog can generalize “Pick Up!” play with other things in different places.

This simple game can turn into whatever behavior you can imagine. It’s the start of that all-star dog behavior of fetching you a soda from the refrigerator. Or something even stronger.

The best time for dog training

Simon loves to play dog training games anytime.
Simon loves playing training games anytime.

It’s never a bad time to play dog training games. Whether we’re talking about the time of day, the phase of your life, or how old your dog is. Truthfully, your dog is learning from you all the time – how to behave, what you like, what’s acceptable, and absolutely what’s not. 

We talked to a person today who’s interested in doing “stuff” with her dog. She has a three-year-old Labrador Retriever and knows he’s smart. He can “do stuff.” And she’s reached a point where she knows he’s not living up to his potential. He can do more. And she wants to give him that chance.

How much training 

It surprises first-time dog owners that dogs are intelligent beings who thrive on challenges. The before-dog fantasy may have included cuddles on the couch, or everywhere companions. But it probably didn’t incorporate the laughs, frustrations, and surprises in store. 

When people adopt dogs from rescues or shelters, they tend to be all gung-ho on training class right away. They don’t realize it takes weeks before the dog adjusts to the new environment. At first, it’s more important to let the dog decompress and start to relax. For these dogs, 2-Minute sessions may be ideal. Just a little bit at a time, and always fun.

Getting a puppy is a bit different. Puppies aren’t “blank slates,” but they don’t have the baggage that rescue dogs carry. Puppies are ready to absorb and learn from day one. But they don’t have the attention span or stamina. Or, for that matter, the retention. For these dogs, the short, fast, fun games are perfect. 

When to get “serious”

Like the woman we spoke to, there comes a time that you look at your dog and realize how much more they’re capable of. The long walks and “fetch” sessions are routine and getting a bit boring. Maybe that’s when you start investigating what more there is for you and your dog.

All of the dog sports exist for fun. Some you and your dog can play in the comfort of your own home, like “Trick Dog.” Others need wide open spaces and knowledgeable instruction to keep you and your dog safe, like agility. When you start to look around, you’ll find a myriad of possibilities for every dog/handler team.

Good foundation

Every single dog sport starts with the relationship between you and your dog. That’s what we’re doing here. 2-Minute Dog Training will build the focus, willingness to try, the trust, and the partnership between you and your dog. When you explore the world of dog sports, take your 2-Minute dog training games with you. There’s no limit on what you and your dog can achieve. 

Play Canine Kitchen Games

You don’t need a lot of space to play training games with your dog. Not much time, either. While you’re waiting for the water to boil for your pasta is a perfect time to play some Canine Kitchen Games!

If you’re like most people, lots of the time you spend at home is in the kitchen. It’s the hub of every home. And where you’re hanging out, chances are your dog is, too. Why not have a little fun while you’re there?

What are Canine Kitchen Games?

Any dog training game that doesn’t need “stuff” can be a kitchen game. And there are even some you can use kitchen stuff to play. 

"Touch" is a great canine kitchen game.
“Touch!”

“Touch!” is a perfect kitchen game. Even if you only have enough room for you and your dog to stand, you can play.  All you need is some treats and your hands!

Another good Canine Kitchen Game is “Tap!” and you won’t even have to wash your hands.

If you want to get fancy and you have enough room, put a big bowl upside down and play some hind-end awareness games. Once around in either direction with the dog’s paws up on the bowl. It only takes a minute, you’ve had some fun with your dog, and accomplished something!

You can even play Puppy Pushups as kitchen game.

Spin it around!

Another option is to teach your dog to spin. Most dogs seem to love it and it’s an easy one to teach. This is one of the rare games that we actually use a lure to begin teaching. While standing, hold a treat by the dog’s shoulder. When they start to turn toward the treat, just keep moving it until the dog makes a complete circle. Some dogs make it all the way around the first time. If your dog doesn’t, start over and give the treat before the dog breaks out of the circling position. You may have to work an increasing arc before you get a complete spin. Meet your dog where they are – then ask for more.

You can teach your dog to spin in both directions. It’s a good idea to give them different names, we use “Spin!” for one way, “Turn!” for the other. Use whatever words you can remember – and keep straight in your mind for clockwise and counter-clockwise. It also helps to move your hand in the direction you want your dog to spin.

Use waiting time

Canine Kitchen Games are great for times when you’re waiting, like in the veterinarian’s office. Or times when you’re out on a walk and don’t want your dog to see the bunny across the street. If you’re in your own yard and want to distract your dog from the person passing by. Or you’re next in line at an agility or obedience trial and want your dog to focus.

These little games have lots of uses. They don’t take much time or effort to learn or play. You can play them anywhere without any prep. And they’re another opportunity to smile and play with your dog.

Find a Dog Training Buddy

Have you ever thought about finding a dog training buddy? The holidays are the most social time of year. There are lots of opportunities to chat with friends, colleagues, relatives about all sorts of stuff. Quite a few of those conversations may mention dogs – especially if you’re trading “naughty” stories.

Dogs meeting other dogs
Friends helping friends with dog training.

If you keep your ears open, you might find a good match for a dog training partner. It’s a good idea to have someone watch you and your dog (either live or on video), trade problem-solving ideas, and discuss training issues and triumphs. It’s not strictly necessary, but it is nice to talk with someone else going through the same thing you are. The best and most experienced dog trainers welcome another opinion, idea, or suggestion. 

Check for compatibility

If you like the idea of sharing your dog-training games with a friend, be sure you have similar ideas about how dog training should be done. There are still punishment-based, and “balanced” training adherents who don’t understand, or even denigrate positive reinforcement training. It’s one thing for us, as training class instructors, to lay down the law of “No pulling, no popping, no corrections!” It may not work in a one-on-one situation. 

Your dog training buddy doesn’t have to be a steady date, or even a regular appointment. You can certainly check in with each other only occasionally. But it’s nice to have someone to bounce ideas off, especially when you hit a plateau or obstacle in your training.

Another set of eyes

Because we’re sisters, Fran and I (Hope), know each other very well. We’re also able to push each other’s buttons and get on each others’ nerves. But in our dog training lives, we’re on the same page – finding the best way to communicate with our dogs. With our own dogs, we’ll often watch each other’s training. And having another viewpoint can be just what you need to move forward. 

Everybody can get stuck. You may become convinced that a certain path is the right one – but your dog just isn’t catching on. And while you can clearly see that what you’re doing isn’t working, you may not have another idea. Just having another person’s thoughts may help you find an alternative. 

As an example – I’m starting to teach Torque, my French Bulldog, the Utility Obedience Directed Retrieve exercise. In competition, three identical gloves are spaced evenly at the end of the ring. The judge tells the handler which glove the dog should get. The team starts with their backs to the gloves. When the exercise starts, the team turns around to face the correct glove and the person sends their dog to get it. 

Torque was peeling off as soon as we started to turn. Even if we came to a stop, he didn’t seem to understand that not just any glove would do. I tried using different objects, varying the distances between them, starting closer to the “right” glove – lots of variations on the theme.

Suggestions from the “peanut gallery”

Fran could see that I was at a loss. Torque just wasn’t understanding the “directed” part of the Directed Retrieve. He was getting the thing, bringing it back to me, dropping it on command. But the first part was elusive. Fran mentioned that according to the rules, that when we turn around I could ask Torque to “sit!” before sending him. I wasn’t doing that, even though it’s part of the rules. And just that change, a pause to focus, is making a big difference for Torque’s understanding.

It may seem natural for people – if somebody’s pointing at something, that’s the thing to interact with. But it’s not as natural for dogs. Sometimes we lose sight of how differently dogs’ minds work. With just an outside suggestion, you may be able to break through whatever barrier’s in front of you.

Help’s always available

If you can’t find a dog training buddy who is open to playing training games with their dogs, we’re always here to answer your questions, watch your videos, and offer suggestions. Building your dog’s understanding is just as important for family companions as it is for those heading for Obedience or Rally competition. It’s the gateway for everybody’s best life. It’s a bit sad that those people (and their dogs) are missing out.

Dog Training Game: Step on it

One of the best ways to encourage your dog to be curious and make good decisions is to play “Step On It!”

Torque playing "Step on it"
Torque stepping on a mat

It’s pretty much exactly what it sounds like. And it’s always a bit of a shock when we introduce it in our puppy classes. The people who thought their puppies were bold, naughty explorers are surprised when their puppies are reluctant to try it.

The more the merrier

The game is simple to play and you can do it with anything, anywhere. You can play it one item at a time, or have a few stations set up to play.

Get some varied, flat materials. We use bubble wrap, cardboard, cookie sheets, yoga mats, wire grating, mesh screening, aluminum foil. The bottom of the item has to be flat, but you can certainly use boxes or, this week in particular, foil roasting pans are a great choice.

Have your dog on collar or harness and leash, just so they don’t leave the play area. Many dogs will disengage and “check out” when they don’t know what’s expected of them. Especially if your dog has been conditioned that you always tell them what to do, they’ll be reluctant to try new things.

How to play

Basically, you stand by the flat object, clicker in one hand, treats in the other, and that’s about it. To free up your hands, you can step on dog’s leash, giving him/her lots of slack, but not able to leave the area. 

Click and reward for any interaction your dog shows with the object. If he/she looks at it, even a passing glance, try to catch the moment, click and reward. Up until now, the game is similar to “Boxey.” Toss the treat on the object, rather than feeding from your hand. We want the dog focused on the thing, not on you for this game. 

If the dog looks at the object, click, and toss. Up to three times. By all means talk to your dog, encouraging him/her to “check it out,” “go see,” “what’s that?”

After your dog has been rewarded three times for looking, ask “What else?” It’s time to ask for more. If your dog has taken the treats tossed on the object, it’s already a little bit familiar and they should be ready to sniff it, paw it, step on it, etc.

Asking for more

For each advance, reward no more than a few times before asking for more. You can either use one object at a time, keeping the sessions very short, or set up a few different things so your dog learns to generalize exploring different things.

Don’t worry if your dog doesn’t get very far the first time. Familiarity with the game will encourage them to try the next time.

If your dog doesn’t engage with the object at all, just lean over and stare at it. This is where the hardest part of dog training comes in – doing nothing. It’s really difficult to just stand there, talking to your dog, and wait for them to get with the program. We understand. But you can do it, and your dog will learn more and better if you’re patient. Resist the temptation to lure your dog to the thing by tossing the treats on it or in it. We’re rewarding, not luring. The difference is teaching your dog to make good decisions, instead of just following commands.

Goal of the game

Eventually, the game’s objective is to get your dog to either stand or sit completely on the flat object, whatever material it’s made of, whatever noise it makes, wherever it is. This is a confidence-building game that’s particularly beneficial for dogs that tend to be timid or wary. It encourages them to explore their world, knowing that you’ll be right there, side by side.

Never Tell Your Dog Fun Is Done

Don’t tell your dog fun is done. 

Dogs are great at having fun and playing games. That’s why game-based training works so well. But what about when it’s time to end the game? How do you keep your dog engaged and happy, but still end the session?

Never tell your dog fun is done.
Silly German Shepherd!

This week one of our student’s dogs bolted and ran around, disrupting our class, the other class, and generally playing keep-away. Nothing bad happened and Fran corralled the silly German Shepherd girl in just a couple of minutes on her second round-about. But it was upsetting for our student – especially since she was planning to compete in Obedience this week.

She let us know she was having second thoughts about that obedience trial. And told us this was the third time her dog had taken off on her instead of allowing the leash to be attached. And now we have the information needed to address the issue.

Everything’s a game

“Dogs are the gods of frolic,” according to Henry Ward Beecher. We’re not sure he meant that as a good thing (he was a clergyman in the 19th century). But regardless, he was right. If there’s a game going on, dogs are in!

That’s a trait that we use all the time. Dogs respond almost instantly to laughter and fun. So make everything fun for your dog.

In our student’s situation, she has to make a point of continuing the fun after the leash is on. 

Logically, if the fun stops when a particular thing happens, you’re going to avoid that thing.  If every time she put on her dog’s leash the dog immediately goes in the crate and stops having fun, the dog will avoid the leash.

Turn it around

Her plan of action is to have a special toy that only comes out right after the leash goes on. She won’t have to play for long, just long enough for the dog to associate more fun with putting on the leash. Then, since we’re always honest with our dogs, she’ll say something like “That’s all!” and end the game. 

Like almost everyone, her first instinct when her dog runs is to chase the dog. She’s going to make a conscious effort to run away from her dog. It goes against every impulse, but it’s how to get your dog running to you. (For more on ending that “Keep Away” game, this article helps. And this one to get your dog running to you every time.)

Most dogs love to chase. They also love you. So if you take off in the opposite direction, all the while yelling his/her name, your dog is going to chase you. 

Grab that collar

When your dog catches up to you, be sure to get hold of their collar before you reward. One of the first games we teach puppy people is the collar grab game, and it’s a life-saver. 

In an emergency situation, you need to grab hold of your dog. If the dog isn’t used to that, they’re going to shy away. If, on the other hand, they know the Collar Grab game, it’s not an issue. It’s one of the games we play regularly with our dogs to keep it ever fresh. You never know when you’ll need it.

Read the room

Your dog knows you. They know your habits, patterns, and routine. If your dog is always misbehaving when something is about to happen (getting in the car, putting on the leash, going in the crate, getting a bath), you’re giving off signals that the “bad” thing is imminent. Recognizing what’s happening will help you change it.

We’re not suggesting that you change your routine to “fool” the dog. That never works. And it means you’re lying to your dog, which is a huge no-no. Instead, examine the pattern and see where you can inject a game. Then play the game when it doesn’t matter. Your dog’s attitude will turn around so when you need to give them a bath, it’s another chance to play, not a sign that dog fun is done.

Take dog training games to the next level

Take your dog training games to the next level by combining tricks. What can Torque do next?
Torque “hides.”

After you’ve been playing training games with your dog for a while, you might have trouble coming up with new ideas. But you don’t always have to come up with something new. You can take your dog training games to the next level by putting them together.

Inspirational dog training

We’ve always loved dogs. But getting hooked on the training part came much later. Dogs are great, adorable, cuddly companions and friends. But the partnership truly blossoms through training. One of the very first, inspirational dog/people partnerships we saw was Carolyn Scott and her Golden Retriever Rookie:

That video is from 2006, competing in “Dog Freestyle,” or “Dog Dancing.” When you watch the video, you’ll see that nothing Rookie does is beyond your dog’s ability: spins, heeling, back up, around, etc. Fran is even working on the “Twine” behavior with Simon, where he “twines” between her legs as she walks. 

Only limit is imagination (and thumbs)

If you search for “dog dancing” or “dog freestyle” you’ll see tons of videos from around the world. Routines that people have come up with are truly amazing. Some use props, others, like Scott & Rookie”s routine, don’t. The only limit is what dogs are actually capable of manipulating without having thumbs. 

If you and your dog have mastered a couple of behaviors with 2-Minute Training games – how about putting them together? Then you’ll have a whole new trick and possibly the start of a dog dancing routine. Hope and Torque’s trick “Troll Under The Bridge” is actually three behaviors strung together: Come, Circle to Middle, and Back Up.

Could it be a component of a dog dancing routine? Absolutely! 

Dog dancing, or freestyle, is the precursor to the Elite Performer, or top level of AKC’s Trick Dog program. And you can still earn any level of Trick Dog title virtually. It’s a great way to show off your dog’s skills.

Use music for inspiration

If you have a favorite song, why not try to choreograph something for you and your dog? A complete song would require an enormous amount of planning, endurance, and training. But a 15-second snippet is both doable and fun. You already know how much training gets done in just two minutes. 15 seconds would definitely let you string together at least three to five behaviors.

It’s another way to have fun with your dog. What’s better than dancing the night away?

Training multiple dogs at one time

If you have more than one dog, is training multiple dogs at one time possible? Or even desirable?

Yes and no

It depends on what you’re training, how experienced the dogs are, how well they know each other, and how good you are at multi-tasking, and how many people are involved in the training. In other words, maybe.

If you have one person for each dog – absolutely possible! We recently talked about having our dogs run (walk really fast) on the treadmill to get in some exercise when it’s too hot to go out. One of us is “walking” the dog right next to our little training area. The other is having fun with a different dog, playing training games. 

At first, the “walking” dog was more interested in the training games. All of our dogs adore their 2-Minute sessions and thought they were missing out. They learned quickly that rewards come for road work, too. All are now fine with having “entertainment” while they get their miles in.

If you’re on your own, it gets a bit trickier.

To each, his own rewards

You can start by playing the same game with both dogs. Simple things like side-by-side sits, downs, spins, or even “Touch!” holding out a different hand to each dog. The key is to make sure each dog knows he’s not forgotten, and gets a “turn.” Dogs are generally great at being fair – as long as they get some time, attention, and treats!

All four of our dogs "Line up!" after coming in the house to get out of the crowded entryway.
“Line up!”

One of the group games we play is “line up!” We have all the dogs sit in a line and stay. Rewards are given to each in turn. The game originally came from trying to move all the dogs out of a narrow entry. Because dogs always stand in the most crowded doorway. That’s where the action is – that’s where they want to be.

Instead of saying “Move!” or trying to step around them and kill ourselves, we developed the “Line Up!” game. As they come in the house, we say “Line Up!” and they run over to sit on the kitchen mat. We say each dog’s name as we reward them, so they know whose turn it is. If somebody moves out of line, or tries to grab somebody else’s treat, the game stops. When everybody remembers his manners, the game resumes. 

We’re not entirely sure that “social pressure” works on dogs. We do know that when the game stops abruptly, the “good” dogs give the “naughty” one a dirty look.

Next step

The next step is to call one dog out of line. This lets the dogs know that they have to pay attention. You can either ask them to play a little game, or release them from “Line Up!” Call each dog for a game and/or release. And you’ve trained multiple dogs at once!

It’s also fun to try little behaviors in pairs. Both Obedience and Rally have “Pairs” competition. It’s a just-for-fun, or “non-regular” class of competition. And it always draws competitors, and audience, because it’s such a joy to watch.

Just hanging out in the yard, we’ll ask a couple of dogs for a simultaneous “Spin!” or “Front!” just because. They love doing it, and we love seeing them so happy and accomplished. These are the tiny little games you play just to have fun with your dog wherever you are, anytime you like. We also sometimes do a group recall for fun – when the dogs are wandering at the other side of the yard, call everybody and see who gets to us first. (“Get your dog to come dashing to you” has some great tips for the recall, or “Come!”)

Scaling up

A friend of ours who’s also addicted to playing training games posts trick training videos on social media. She’ll often have another dog hanging out on a cot in the background. It’s another level of training, and it didn’t happen all at once. 

Our friend frequently rewards the dog hanging out on the cot. It allows both dogs to adjust to the idea that they don’t have to be the center of attention all the time. That you do remember them. And that they’ll be rewarded for remembering the game they’re playing.

Just hanging out on the cot is an active game. Most people who have trouble with their dogs’ “Stay!” tend to think that their dog isn’t “working” when they’re staying. They are. And for active dogs, it can be the hardest game of all. 

Choose one or more

It’s up to you whether you choose to train more than one dog at a time. It’s certainly easier with just one. But two (or more) can multiply the fun!

Dealing with distractions in dog training

There are always going to be real-world distractions in dog training. It’s how you cope with them that matters.

You never know when “SQUIRREL!” will cross your path. But you can prepare your dog to deal with distractions.

Fran and Simon, her 3-year-old Boston Terrier, competed in his second agility trial recently. It was a familiar environment – the same place they have weekly classes. The obstacles and jumps were ones he knows. And yet – he was completely distracted. Why? There were people in the ring with him! 

In agility, volunteers are dispersed around the field to pick up dropped bars, reset jump heights, etc. to keep agility trials moving efficiently. But Simon had never seen people sitting on chairs in the ring before. So he felt compelled to go and say “Hi!” to all of them.

Distraction dog training

Dogs, like Simon, are going to notice things. That’s their nature. You can’t stop your dog from seeing and hearing the world around them. What you can do is show them how to stay focused despite distractions. 

Fran and Simon are training for distractions.
Simon’s paying attention to Fran instead of the distractions around.

How is Simon going to learn to pay attention to Fran (and what he’s supposed to be doing) instead of visiting? This week in class, she’s going to ask her classmates to pretend to be those trial volunteers. And she’s going to be more fun than people sitting quietly in chairs. When Simon goes to say “Hi!,” those classmates are going to sit still and look anywhere but at Simon. Fran’s going to run away from Simon (triggering his chase instinct and his inherent curiosity), calling him. And when he comes dashing after her, she’s  going to reward him mightily. And then they’ll continue running their agility practice.

The real-world application is the same. 

How to train for distractions

The key is right there. Be more interesting than the distraction. Our students are often hesitant about being noisy, or playing with toys, or over-rewarding their dogs in class. People are taught to not be “disruptive” or make a fuss in public.

Get over it. Your dog isn’t going to pay attention if you’re boring. And, realistically, no one’s paying attention to you, anyway. They’re watching your dog. What they see in your dog is up to you. They can admire the cute, well-trained dog with you. Or they can “tsk” and shake their heads over the poorly-behaving hooligan.

Time & patience

It’s really difficult for people to embrace the idea of rewarding your dog every single time he looks at you. It’s hard to watch your dog’s face and look where you’re going. That’s why you practice in familiar surroundings and straight lines, so you don’t trip and hurt yourself. But that focus on you – rewarding your dog EVERY SINGLE TIME they look at you, is the foundation for all good training. Focus is key.  (Check out the Looky Loo game for more distraction work.)

It doesn’t mean your dog stares adoringly into your eyes all the time, for every step. It means that they check in with you on a regular basis. Because they know it will be rewarded. What gets rewarded, gets repeated.

Calling it something

When you’re building the “check in” habit, you can call it “watch,” “here,” “check,” or whatever works for you. But it shouldn’t just be the dog’s name. Dogs hear their names constantly, with little or no information attached to it. So, more often than not, they ignore it. We have one student who says her dog’s name all the time, despite us hounding her not to. And when he hears it, he tends to look away, rather than at her. Because she’s reluctant to reward. When he does look at her, he gets an occasional “good boy!” even with us yelling “Reward that!” “Cookie him!”

Building the “check in” behavior pays dividends in the real world. If you’re out walking and see “SQUIRREL!” use your check-in and have rewards ready. The better the reward, the more likely your dog will find you more interesting than the distraction. In your dog’s opinion, you should be more interesting than anything else in the world. It’s not hard to do – they already adore you!