Tag: dog training games

Managing dog expectations

What are your dog expectations? What do you want from them? And how fast do you think you can get it?

A woman who’s taken our classes contacted us a couple weeks ago. She and her husband adopted a two (?) year old dog from a nearby shelter and want to start training the new guy.

So we got them started on the basics: teaching him his name. Playing “Touch!” Puppy Push-ups for vocabulary. Some Pattern Walking. And, after five days, she called for more help with his issues. Clark apparently jumps on people, doesn’t come when called, and fixates on squirrels and rabbits on walks. And “nothing” they try can get his attention.

Expecting too much too soon

They can’t get his attention because, at this point, “nothing” is what this dog knows. For his entire life, prior to two weeks ago, Clark was never taught to think. Never taught to make good decisions. Never had any expectations laid upon him.

Had they gone to a force trainer, it’s quite possible that Clark would be “behaving” better. He would know that if he doesn’t comply with commands, he will be punished. He wouldn’t be more polite and attentive because he’s learned that being “good” is right. He’d obey because he wants to avoid pain.

There’s no question that positive reinforcement training and training games take longer. It takes time to communicate to dogs that their best interest and yours coincide. Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. Together, you have to build the foundation of trust and partnership.

Expect more

The benefits of training games are also more long-lasting. Once the dog catches on that playing learning games is fun, they’ll want to do it more and more. When your dog is on board with the program, they’ll come find you when it’s time to play. 

When that happens, your expectations for your dog can soar. At this point, when we make up or introduce a new training game to our dogs, most of the time they pick it up in just a few training sessions. When they don’t, there’s something wrong with the game.

Our biggest “fail” so far was trying to train Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, to distinguish between colors. We gave it a fair shot, over a dozen or more sessions, but he just wasn’t getting it. We still don’t know whether it’s because dogs can’t see the colors we were using, or if it was a flaw in the game. 

Got it!

On the other hand, one of the most recent “wins” was getting our dogs to do Puppy Push-ups when we were behind or over them. They easily adjusted to the simple change. The parameters of the game were familiar. So their knowledge and experience led to success.

Letting your dog think and learn at their pace requires you to use patience. Sometimes it takes every ounce you have. We introduced a thinking game to our Rally students this week and two of the dogs weren’t able to get it. One because she’s a rescue with a long history of trauma. The other because her owner has told her what to do every moment of her life. Both of these dogs are new to thinking, trying, and making good decisions. We expect it will take a little time. But both will get it, sooner or later. And the owners’ dog expectations can grow – a little at a time.

Step over your dog

Step over your dog? Why? Dogs are a trip hazard. We know, because our cousin shattered her knee cap tripping over her German Shepherd Dog. It was an accident, and those happen to everybody. What made this particular situation worse was that, as she was stepping over the dog on the way, the dog got up. She was actually lucky. It was her dog’s habit to sleep in the hall at the top of the stairway. Our cousin was lucky to break her knee and not her noggin.

Are you wondering what this has to do with dog training? If the dog had been trained to accept being stepped over, brushed by, or even pushed against, she wouldn’t have gotten up and our cousin may not have fallen. 

If you’ve played in either Obedience or Rally, your dog is probably accustomed to you walking around them. But if you’ve never taught your dog to let you walk all the way around them, the time has come.

Why do I need that?

Our beginner class students always give us the “Why?” puzzled face when we start teaching “Walk Around Your Dog.” No one thinks they’ll need it. And everyone is pretty surprised when their dog doesn’t let them do it. It’s no big deal to you, so you’ve probably never paid much attention to what your dog does when you walk around them. Almost one hundred percent of the time, dogs will either swivel on their butts to watch you, or stand to keep their face pointed in your direction. Dogs like to know where you are and what you’re doing. All the time.

The scenario we have students imagine is this: You’re making a pasta dinner. Your cooktop is on the opposite side of the kitchen from your sink. The pasta’s done and ready to be drained. And your dog is sitting in the absolute geographic center of the kitchen. If they don’t move, you’ll be okay, there’s plenty of room to walk around them. Unless, of course, they get up and move into the path you were planning to take. If you’re lucky, no boiling water sloshes on anyone. We tend not to be lucky. So we train our dogs to stay put. You may not ever need to step over your dog, but if you do, it’s a handy thing to have trained.

Brush against them

Just as we tend not to be terrifically lucky, we’re also not the most graceful people on the planet. Every so often we move awkwardly, or carry something unwieldy, so we might brush up against our dogs as we pass by them. They need to accept this as normal and not freak out, jump up, and get in the way when it happens.

Next time you practice your “Stay!” with your dog, brush your foot against them when you’re moving. Don’t kick your dog, but let your foot make a bit of contact with your dog’s side, or paw, or butt as you move around. If your dog stays put, reward and do it again. But if they don’t, set it up again and reduce the stress and surprise of the contact. If you brushed the dog’s hind foot, try the front instead so they can clearly see there was nothing to worry about. If you contacted the dog’s hind end, make it a shoulder instead. 

Just try it a couple of times, reward the dog and be done for that session.They’ll get used to the incidental touches. Just do it now before you ever actually need it. Gradually increase the pressure of the contact as well as practicing actually stepping over them. Last week we talked about “Middling,” and another thing to practice is to let the side of one foot and then both touch your dog when he’s in the middle.

Everywhere, every position

If your dog aces “Walk Around Your Dog” when lying down, move on to the “Sit!” and the “Stand!” As always, do it in different places so your dog truly learns what it means. And every once in a while actually step over your dog.

It may seem like a little thing. And it is. Until you’re heading to the bathroom at 2 a.m. and your dog is lying in your path. In this case an ounce of prevention would have prevented a very painful pound of cure.

Dog Training Game: Middling

We mean that quite literally. This game is to teach your dog to stand between your legs, facing the same way you are. It’s a great position to teach them, especially if there are times when your dog is nervous. The dog training game: Middling shouldn’t be confused with hiding, which should not be encouraged. “Middling” is a safe space, but it’s not a hideaway for timid dogs. 

It’s a recent variant we’ve been using for our Puppy Pushups practice. Once your dog knows the positions “Sit!”, “Stand!” and “Down!”, there are only so many combinations you can use. If they know the words, the game can get a bit boring if you let it. We’ve come up with lots of ways of playing; just words, just hand signals, varying distance, etc. And the dogs took each one in stride and mastered it in no time. 

But when we tried straddling our dogs, it was as if they’d never heard the words before. You never know how dogs will react to a new scenario until you try it.

Get them centered

If you’ve never tried standing with one leg on either side of your dog, you may be surprised by how freaked out they are. You can almost hear them thinking “What’s this about? You’re being weird!” 

So rather than weirding them out, play a preliminary game of “Toss Through.” This is a fast, easy game for most dogs. All you do is stand in front of your dog with your legs wide enough apart that your dog can run through. Show your dog a treat, toss it through your legs, and tell your dog to get it. Then, when your dog’s behind you, bend over, looking through your legs, catch your dog’s eye and toss a treat the other way, so your dog runs between your legs back to front. 

It doesn’t take most dogs more than a couple tosses to fall in love with this game. Just be sure the treat you’re using is visible, so your dog can easily find it. If your dog isn’t particularly treat-motivated, you can certainly toss a toy instead. 

Next step

Once your dog loves running back and forth through your legs, it’s time to introduce a “Stop!” in the middle. The easiest way to do this is, with your dog behind you, show them the treat and bring them forward. Raise the treat as they come through your legs and say “Sit!” If all goes well, the dog should be right under you. If so, reward. 

If not, chances are your dog thought it was too odd and swung their butt around so they’re facing you. That’s the favorite position for most dogs – keeping an eye on you at all times. You can remedy this by giving them a designated spot for the “Sit!”. 

If you haven’t taught your dog “Place!”, now’s the time. Get a small towel, or mat large enough only for the dog to sit on. One of our favorite training tools is a cheap yoga mat that we cut into whatever shapes and sizes we need. That’s ideal for this training.

When your dog knows “Place!”, position the mat between your feet and try again. The similar context will give your dog the information they need to understand. When you’ve achieved the “Sit!,” go for the “Down!” and “Stand!” as well. The mat really helped Simon to understand the new dog training game: middling.

Everything in its place

Just a subtle change, like changing your positions, can throw your dog for a loop. Remember they’re contextual learners. When the context changes, everything’s different. By teaching your dog different variables of familiar behaviors, you increase their understanding and ability to generalize. “Sit!” always means the same thing, no matter where you are or what you’re doing. Teaching dogs how to be flexible and “go with the flow” will add confidence to every aspect of life.

The best dog training treats

It’s the question that gets asked on social media more than any other – “What training treats are you using?” The answer is simple: the best dog training treats are the ones your dog likes.

Of course dogs’ tastes range widely. There are treats the dog will eat, treats they’ll move to get, and treats the dogs will run through fire to get. The value of any food reward depends on the dog. It’s up to you to discover your dog’s treat hierarchy.

Start with the basics

How eagerly does your dog eat their regular food? If it’s a dry commercial food and your dog devours it, you’re in great shape. It’s the foundation for a “trail mix” of treats that will make your dog happy.

If your dog isn’t an eager eater, it’s more of an issue. In all honesty, we have no experience with dogs that don’t devour their food. For us, a dog refusing to eat is on his/her way to the veterinarian without much lag time. Based on what we know about dogs, if your dog is a reluctant eater, there are a few possibilities:

  • The dog just doesn’t like the food. The fix for this is to try different varieties until you come up with one the dog likes. Give each kind a fair test. Switching constantly may have your dog refusing food until they’re given something “better.” That’s a different kind of trouble.
  • There’s something wrong with the dog. Over the years we’ve had dogs with ulcers and acid reflux, so had to adjust their food and feeding schedule. 
  • The dog isn’t hungry because it’s overfed. If you adhere to the amounts on most commercial dog food packages, your dog is stuffed to the gills.  

Your dog’s regular food is the base of the treat hierarchy. Working your way up from there, the next tier of the hierarchy, includes treats the dog likes and will get up off their butt to reach. This would include many of the commercial dog treats available. It can also include things like cereal (most dogs like the O-shaped oat cereal. Our dogs prefer the honey-nut flavor.), air-popped popcorn, carrots, apple, celery (Torque’s favorite), and green beans (either fresh or frozen).

Moving up the list to treats dogs adore. These are usually things like Chicken Heart Treats, freeze-dried liver, bits of cheese, hot dog, french fries, peanut butter. These treats are the ones your dog would run through fire to get. They’re also the ones that should be given sparingly, especially if your dog has a sensitive stomach. For soft things, like peanut butter or cream cheese, let your dog lick them off the end of a spoon. It takes a little manipulation, but if that’s what your dog likes, you’ll figure it out.

Make a “trail mix”

When you’re training your dog, every room in the house should have a covered container of dog treats. Mix up a big bowl of dry treats from all three tiers of your dog’s hierarchy. Put portions of that mixture in the containers, so you always have treats available. If you have a container sitting on the shelf, you can grab it when the television commercial break starts and complete a whole training game before the show comes back. When it’s easy, you’re more likely to do it.

If the trail mix has a variety of treats in it, your dog will always be hopefully that the A-list treat is up next. They’ll be happy to play with you regardless, but the variety makes it more fun and interesting for your dog.

Rule of treats

For a training class, or when you’re playing a new-to-you training game, the treats should be top-tier, pinnacle level. It keeps your dog interested and attentive, even if their classmates are barking their fool heads off. Or if they don’t understand the new game yet and are getting a little frustrated.

In these scenarios, the treat slogan is “soft, small, and smelly.” Soft, so the dog doesn’t leave crumbs all over and stop to clean up the floor. Small, so they’re less than a full bite and your dog won’t get full. Smelly so the dog knows exactly what you have and is eager to get it.

Best dog training treats

It may take a little time and effort to define your dog’s treat hierarchy. You’ll know which treats your dog like best by how quickly they respond during your training games. There’s no universal “best” dog training treats. It’s up to your dog, and you, to discover what works for your team.

Shake up your dog training routine

Both dogs and people are creatures of habit. To keep training games fun for both of you, it’s a good idea to shake up your dog training routine. 

Even if you’re working on a specific behavior, you can find ways to make it different and more interesting. Simple variations can change the dynamic.

Always the same 

In AKC Novice Obedience competition there are exactly eight exercises. It’s the same eight behaviors, in the exact same order, in every single AKC Obedience Competition. It doesn’t change, the order doesn’t vary. It is what it is. And in our classes, we never, ever practice or teach it that way.

Dogs aren’t stupid. If you practice the same thing the same way every time, they don’t just learn the routine. They know what’s coming and jump ahead to the end. They’re awesome that way – wanting to save you the time and trouble of doing all the fussy in-between bits.

In competition, that’s a problem. It’s all the fussy bits that matter.

For example

Let’s say you’re doing the Figure 8 heeling. If you’ve only practiced as it’s done in competition, your dog knows exactly how it works. So your dog isn’t actually heeling, they’re doing a Figure 8 pattern. When the judge says “Halt!,” if your dog’s not watching you, they may be merrily heeling along and not notice you stopped. Until it’s too late and the judge is deducting points.

It’s easily fixed. Instead of just two cones to heel around in practice, use three. Or four. Or five. Go any which way, without a plan, and keep your dog’s attention. It’s more interesting for both of you. And it improves your heeling. 

Just for fun

Even if you never intend to enter an obedience competition, the around-the-cones heeling, or loose-lead walking, is good practice. We call it “noodling” and you just walk randomly in circles, zig-zags, and loop-de-loops. You can even throw in a few backward and side steps. 

If you’re out and about, put some interest in your walks. Use trees to do Figure 8s around. Or, if you’re an urban dweller, street lights or garbage cans work, too. The point is to instill some variety, add some interest, and keep both of you from falling into a rut.

As Ralph Waldo Emerson said: “A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds, adored by little statesmen and philosophers and divines. With consistency a great soul has simply nothing to do.”

Be unpredictable in your dog training routine. It’ll be more fun for you and your dog.

Just for the fun of it – Train Your Dog!

There seems to be a mindset that dog training is something you “have” to do. The truth is, most dogs are only “trained” to function within the family. It’s almost like people see it as a chore, rather than a chance to play with their dogs. We wish they could see the fun the rest of us have when we play training games with our dogs.

That’s all it really is. Dogs love to learn, love having a job, and love spending time with you. Most dogs today aren’t really “working” dogs. Their primary job is to be great companions, and they’re great at it. 

Ask for more

That’s fine. If you’re a couch potato and want your dog to lounge next to you and stare at screens all day, go for it. 

But if you want more, it’s at your fingertips. If you’re just a little bit intrigued by the possibilities of what you and your dog can do together, start with one little training game. Play “Touch!” for two minutes. 

If you do, you’ll be amazed by how quickly your dog catches on. And how happy your dog is to play with you. When was the last time you saw that open-mouth, silly grin on your dog’s face?

Not just us – dogs love to play training games

Last week one of our students told us something that makes us glad. She said that by late afternoon, if she hasn’t played training games with her dog, he comes to find her and won’t stop bothering her until they have a training session. If you’ve found a good training class, your dog should practically drag you into the room. Dogs should love to play training games.

We wish there was another word than “training” for what we do with our dog. It has so many dull, painful, boring connotations. Until we think of one, or make one up, it will have to do.

Give it a new definition

One thing we can do now is urge you to just try. Give it a week. One or two training games a day – less than 10 minutes. If it doesn’t work, if you don’t have fun, if your dog doesn’t learn stuff, let us know. 

We know you’re tired at the end of the day. So get up five minutes earlier and play training games with your dog’s breakfast. Use one commercial break from whatever screen you’re watching to play with your dog.

Here’s the warning label: Playing training games with your dog is addictive. If you don’t love your dog and don’t want to have a singular bond with them, do not play. 

Don’t say we never warned you.

Doing It Right Looks Different

What kind of feedback is your dog getting? Are you making sure that doing it right looks different from doing it wrong?

Let’s say you’ve been practicing a particular behavior with your dog.You’ve been working on it for a while, but your dog just isn’t getting it. It could be anything from the simplest position change to a complex trick. You keep trying, but you’re getting a little frustrated and about ready to throw in the towel. 

And then, giving it one more try for the day, your dog does it right! What do you do to mark the occasion?

  1. Just move on and think to yourself “Finally!” Or do you 
  2. Stop and celebrate? 

If you picked A, pick again. Our trainees hear it all the time: “Doing it right has to look different than doing it wrong.”

How do they know?

When you regularly play training games with your dog, the two of you often act as a team. If your dog could talk, they could probably finish your sentences most of the time. But they can’t talk. And they don’t understand what we want of them until we teach them. You have to let your dog know when they’re right. 

2-Minute Dog Training Games are built on understanding that dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. No reward tells your dog “Sorry, buddy. That wasn’t it.” When they get a jackpot the message is clearly: “Yay for you! You did it!”

Dogs want to get things right and earn that jackpot. Knowing their effort will be rewarded motivates them to keep trying. If at first they don’t succeed they know to try, try again.

For instance

Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, loves doing Rally Obedience stuff. There was one upper-level sign he just wasn’t understanding. It was the “Send Away Sit / Return / Follow Arrow” signs at the Master level, for Rally people. He just didn’t “get” that he had to go near the cone (6 feet away), turn around and then sit. Even teaching the segments separately didn’t work. Putting a target near the cone didn’t work. He just wasn’t getting it. 

They practiced it about every couple of weeks for several months. There was no urgency, and Hope tried different targets, signals, commands. But it wasn’t happening. Torque knew it wasn’t right because he didn’t get any treats. But he was willing to keep trying because we didn’t hammer at it, tell him he was wrong, or enforce any kind of punishment.

Doing it right looks different

Then came the day when he did it. Perfectly. The first try. Hope stopped everything and gave that boy a jackpot of treats, an ear massage, and quit for the day. Doing it right looks different, and he’s done it right every time since. 

Make it a big deal

If it’s a big deal when the dog gets something right, and nothing when they don’t, the dog has a reason to keep trying. Dogs love having a “job” and “working” with their people. But there’s no reason to keep doing it if their efforts gain them nothing.

Quite a few of the comments on our videos are similar to “my dog isn’t interested.” Or “my dog won’t listen.” And to each of these we ask – what motivation are you giving your dog? Do they get anything special for listening? For being interested? If doing nothing and doing something all get the same treatment, why would they bother?

It’s on you

There’s a saying among dog trainers that “Every dog is trained to its owner’s level of comfort.” Most people quit trying when their dogs learn the bare minimum to live comfortably. As long as their dog doesn’t chew their shoes and potties where they’re supposed to, they’re satisfied. 

And if that’s all you want, that’s fine. It’s between you and your dog. But if you want to have a real companion who loves doing “stuff” with you and has a big, happy life, you’ll strive for more. And make it look different when you get it.

Let your dog freestyle

Do you ever let your dog freestyle your 2-Minute sessions? Or do you always have a goal in mind when you’re playing training games? 

We agree with Apple CEO Tim Cook: “Let your joy be in your journey – not in some distant goal.” 

While we do teach our dogs the skills they need to compete in dog sports, that’s not the focus of training games. Giving your dog the biggest, best, happiest life is the reason for this joyful journey.

Cue your dog’s creativity

Just for the fun of it, grab a bunch of random household stuff you don’t really care about. Nothing breakable, please. Then toss it on the floor and let your dog loose. You don’t even have to have any treats. Just let your dog do whatever they want for a couple of minutes.

Sometimes, they’ll come up with a whole new game. In one of Simon’s freestyle sessions he showed Fran he liked to make towers of toys. She’s now working on a container-stacking game.

Other choices

It’s also possible that absolutely nothing useful will come from the play session. Faced with some random objects, Hope’s Torque decided the most fun thing would be to destroy cardboard tubes. That’s what he wanted to do. That’s what he did. And he had fun doing it.

At first your dog may not understand the concept. They may look to you for direction. It takes a while for dogs who have always been under instruction to understand they’re free to do whatever they want. 

This is where you have to be patient. Which, as we all know, is the absolute hardest part of dog training. You can encourage your dog to check things out, but try not to interact with any of the objects. If your dog starts moving among them, or sniffing them, encourage the dog. But don’t interfere. Let them figure it out.

Building confidence when you let your dog freestyle

Making decisions helps dogs build confidence. In these freestyle sessions where anything goes, they’ll learn to explore more. Often in dogs’ lives they’re not allowed to go where they want, do what they want, check out interesting things.  

These improvised sessions counter-balance both the regular routine and the strict structure of most dogs’ days. It’s another way to enrich their lives. And it’s fun.

Teaching “Fetch!”

You might think there are two kinds of dogs in the world. Those who love to play “Fetch!” and those who just don’t get it. In fact, the two kinds of dogs are: 1) those who love to play “Fetch!” and 2) those who don’t love it yet. Teaching fetch the 2-Minute Trainer way will make up for that!

It may take a little time, patience, and slobber to get there, but you can if that’s your goal. Like all of our dog training games, you break it down into small steps and teach one at a time. 

The game of “Fetch!” is really not as simple as it looks. There are a lot of small steps that all add up to a complete game.

The first step is for your dog to love playing with a toy with you. The “with you” is the important part. If you’re not part of the play from the outset, you never will be. It doesn’t matter what toy you start with, as long as it has someplace for both of you to hold on. Balls don’t. Balls on ropes do. Bones don’t. Plush toys do. 

Getting the grab

If there’s a toy your dog already loves that fits the bill, you’re ahead of the game. If you have a dog that doesn’t much care about toys, you may have to work a bit to get there. To get your dog to play with a toy with you, start by being annoying. Swish the toy back and forth on the floor in front of your dog, being sure to contact their front paws as you go. Keep it a slow, back and forth motion. With some excited dialog: “You gonna get it?” “What’s that?” “Get it!” 

When your dog does grab the toy – and it may take some time to get the grab – play tug! (A word of caution about tug. Be sure to tug back and forth. Up and down motion could injure your dog’s neck or spine.) If your dog drops the toy, you drop it, too. Encourage your dog to “Get it!” If they do pick it up, start playing tug again. If they don’t, go back to your swishing. To graduate to the “Fetch” part, the toy has to be valuable to the dog, they have to want to get it without you holding it. 

Make tug the best game ever

Once your dog loves playing tug, the next part is easier. In the middle of a game of tug, drop the toy and run away from your dog. At first, just go a step or two. When you turn around to look at your dog, they should be right behind you. Grab your end of the toy and play tug! The tugging game will be your dog’s reward when they “Fetch!” 

The fastest way to get a dog to come to you is to run away from them. It also works with human toddlers. It takes guts to run away from your dog when they’re on the loose and headed for traffic, but it does work. Chasing after a dog is every dog’s signal to play “You Can’t Catch Me!,”, which is never what you really want to play. 

If your dog has dropped the toy, or isn’t following you, run back to the toy and excitedly say something like “You forgot something!” “Where’s your toy?” “Get it!” When the dog picks it up again, say “Good Get it!” and run a couple of steps away. 

Be patient. If your dog has never played “Fetch!” or is inconsistent in either carrying or bringing the toy, keep trying. It may take a few 2-Minute sessions for them to get the idea. Hope’s French Bulldogs have never been natural retrievers, or toy fanatics. But each and every one learned to love the retrieve, which is Obedience parlance for “Fetch!”

And you’re teaching “Fetch!”

Once your dog loves playing tug with you, and loves chasing you to play tug, you can progress to “Fetch!” Show your dog the favorite tug toy and then toss it away. As soon as you throw, turn around and start to run away. Again, if your dog drops the toy, or doesn’t get it to chase you instead, run to the toy and encourage your dog to pick it up. When they do, run a few steps, turn around and play “Tug!” See that: you’re teaching “Fetch!”

Be patient. If your dog isn’t a natural retriever, they have to learn all the parts of the game and come to love each and every part. When it all falls into place, you’ll always have it. “Fetch!” will be a part of your repertoire forever. 

The Dog’s Shell Game

Both you and your dog always win when you play the Dog’s Shell Game. It looks like the con-artist’s street corner version, but it doesn’t cost a thing. 

This isn’t a training game per se. It’s just a fun game to play with your dog that lets them use their natural ability to sniff. It’s a game that lets your dog just be a dog, and you go along for the ride. 

How to play

All you need is some rather smelly treats and three cups or little bowls. We’d recommend using ones that aren’t breakable. And are washable. Because dog spit.

You can play anywhere you have enough space to sit on the floor with your dog. 

Start by letting your dog sniff the treat. Then line up your cups or bowls and hide the treat under one of them. It’s perfectly okay for your dog to see what you’re doing.

Leaving the bowls flat on the floor, shift them around a few times in random order. The beauty part of this game is you don’t have to remember where the treat is. It’s up to your dog to find it.

Find it!

Then just let your dog go find the treat. They should use their noses to locate it. If they knock over the cup, that’s fine. Some dogs don’t make a beeline to the treat because they may not understand it’s a sniffing game. 

When they indicate which bowl, pick it up and let them get the treat if they were right. If they chose poorly, just say something like “That’s not it! Keep trying!” It’s up to you whether you set that bowl aside or reintroduce it into the game.

Do it again!

After they find the treat the first time, they’ll know better what the game is about. It’s fun when they catch on and sit watching you move the cups around. See if your dog watches the target bowl or the whole set up. If they watch a single bowl, they’ll probably go right to that one when you release them.

Once your dog knows how to play the game, you can replace the treat with anything that has a scent. If you’re into Nose Work, you’re familiar with having dogs sniff out the essential oil scents used in the sport. You can use a cotton pad with just a few drops of scent. Just be ready with a treat to reward your dog so they’re not tempted to eat the cotton pad. 

No fooling

Unlike the con artist, you’re not trying to fool your dog. You want them to succeed by using their natural scenting ability, like the “Find It!” dog training game. On a sniffari walk, your dog meanders from place to place, checking out the surrounding odors. The Shell Game has the added benefit of making you a vital part. Whenever possible, you want to be included in your dog’s fun.