Find a Dog Training Buddy

Have you ever thought about finding a dog training buddy? The holidays are the most social time of year. There are lots of opportunities to chat with friends, colleagues, relatives about all sorts of stuff. Quite a few of those conversations may mention dogs – especially if you’re trading “naughty” stories.

Dogs meeting other dogs
Friends helping friends with dog training.

If you keep your ears open, you might find a good match for a dog training partner. It’s a good idea to have someone watch you and your dog (either live or on video), trade problem-solving ideas, and discuss training issues and triumphs. It’s not strictly necessary, but it is nice to talk with someone else going through the same thing you are. The best and most experienced dog trainers welcome another opinion, idea, or suggestion. 

Check for compatibility

If you like the idea of sharing your dog-training games with a friend, be sure you have similar ideas about how dog training should be done. There are still punishment-based, and “balanced” training adherents who don’t understand, or even denigrate positive reinforcement training. It’s one thing for us, as training class instructors, to lay down the law of “No pulling, no popping, no corrections!” It may not work in a one-on-one situation. 

Your dog training buddy doesn’t have to be a steady date, or even a regular appointment. You can certainly check in with each other only occasionally. But it’s nice to have someone to bounce ideas off, especially when you hit a plateau or obstacle in your training.

Another set of eyes

Because we’re sisters, Fran and I (Hope), know each other very well. We’re also able to push each other’s buttons and get on each others’ nerves. But in our dog training lives, we’re on the same page – finding the best way to communicate with our dogs. With our own dogs, we’ll often watch each other’s training. And having another viewpoint can be just what you need to move forward. 

Everybody can get stuck. You may become convinced that a certain path is the right one – but your dog just isn’t catching on. And while you can clearly see that what you’re doing isn’t working, you may not have another idea. Just having another person’s thoughts may help you find an alternative. 

As an example – I’m starting to teach Torque, my French Bulldog, the Utility Obedience Directed Retrieve exercise. In competition, three identical gloves are spaced evenly at the end of the ring. The judge tells the handler which glove the dog should get. The team starts with their backs to the gloves. When the exercise starts, the team turns around to face the correct glove and the person sends their dog to get it. 

Torque was peeling off as soon as we started to turn. Even if we came to a stop, he didn’t seem to understand that not just any glove would do. I tried using different objects, varying the distances between them, starting closer to the “right” glove – lots of variations on the theme.

Suggestions from the “peanut gallery”

Fran could see that I was at a loss. Torque just wasn’t understanding the “directed” part of the Directed Retrieve. He was getting the thing, bringing it back to me, dropping it on command. But the first part was elusive. Fran mentioned that according to the rules, that when we turn around I could ask Torque to “sit!” before sending him. I wasn’t doing that, even though it’s part of the rules. And just that change, a pause to focus, is making a big difference for Torque’s understanding.

It may seem natural for people – if somebody’s pointing at something, that’s the thing to interact with. But it’s not as natural for dogs. Sometimes we lose sight of how differently dogs’ minds work. With just an outside suggestion, you may be able to break through whatever barrier’s in front of you.

Help’s always available

If you can’t find a dog training buddy who is open to playing training games with their dogs, we’re always here to answer your questions, watch your videos, and offer suggestions. Building your dog’s understanding is just as important for family companions as it is for those heading for Obedience or Rally competition. It’s the gateway for everybody’s best life. It’s a bit sad that those people (and their dogs) are missing out.

Dog Training Game: Step on it

One of the best ways to encourage your dog to be curious and make good decisions is to play “Step On It!”

Torque playing "Step on it"
Torque stepping on a mat

It’s pretty much exactly what it sounds like. And it’s always a bit of a shock when we introduce it in our puppy classes. The people who thought their puppies were bold, naughty explorers are surprised when their puppies are reluctant to try it.

The more the merrier

The game is simple to play and you can do it with anything, anywhere. You can play it one item at a time, or have a few stations set up to play.

Get some varied, flat materials. We use bubble wrap, cardboard, cookie sheets, yoga mats, wire grating, mesh screening, aluminum foil. The bottom of the item has to be flat, but you can certainly use boxes or, this week in particular, foil roasting pans are a great choice.

Have your dog on collar or harness and leash, just so they don’t leave the play area. Many dogs will disengage and “check out” when they don’t know what’s expected of them. Especially if your dog has been conditioned that you always tell them what to do, they’ll be reluctant to try new things.

How to play

Basically, you stand by the flat object, clicker in one hand, treats in the other, and that’s about it. To free up your hands, you can step on dog’s leash, giving him/her lots of slack, but not able to leave the area. 

Click and reward for any interaction your dog shows with the object. If he/she looks at it, even a passing glance, try to catch the moment, click and reward. Up until now, the game is similar to “Boxey.” Toss the treat on the object, rather than feeding from your hand. We want the dog focused on the thing, not on you for this game. 

If the dog looks at the object, click, and toss. Up to three times. By all means talk to your dog, encouraging him/her to “check it out,” “go see,” “what’s that?”

After your dog has been rewarded three times for looking, ask “What else?” It’s time to ask for more. If your dog has taken the treats tossed on the object, it’s already a little bit familiar and they should be ready to sniff it, paw it, step on it, etc.

Asking for more

For each advance, reward no more than a few times before asking for more. You can either use one object at a time, keeping the sessions very short, or set up a few different things so your dog learns to generalize exploring different things.

Don’t worry if your dog doesn’t get very far the first time. Familiarity with the game will encourage them to try the next time.

If your dog doesn’t engage with the object at all, just lean over and stare at it. This is where the hardest part of dog training comes in – doing nothing. It’s really difficult to just stand there, talking to your dog, and wait for them to get with the program. We understand. But you can do it, and your dog will learn more and better if you’re patient. Resist the temptation to lure your dog to the thing by tossing the treats on it or in it. We’re rewarding, not luring. The difference is teaching your dog to make good decisions, instead of just following commands.

Goal of the game

Eventually, the game’s objective is to get your dog to either stand or sit completely on the flat object, whatever material it’s made of, whatever noise it makes, wherever it is. This is a confidence-building game that’s particularly beneficial for dogs that tend to be timid or wary. It encourages them to explore their world, knowing that you’ll be right there, side by side.

Never Tell Your Dog Fun Is Done

Don’t tell your dog fun is done. 

Dogs are great at having fun and playing games. That’s why game-based training works so well. But what about when it’s time to end the game? How do you keep your dog engaged and happy, but still end the session?

Never tell your dog fun is done.
Silly German Shepherd!

This week one of our student’s dogs bolted and ran around, disrupting our class, the other class, and generally playing keep-away. Nothing bad happened and Fran corralled the silly German Shepherd girl in just a couple of minutes on her second round-about. But it was upsetting for our student – especially since she was planning to compete in Obedience this week.

She let us know she was having second thoughts about that obedience trial. And told us this was the third time her dog had taken off on her instead of allowing the leash to be attached. And now we have the information needed to address the issue.

Everything’s a game

“Dogs are the gods of frolic,” according to Henry Ward Beecher. We’re not sure he meant that as a good thing (he was a clergyman in the 19th century). But regardless, he was right. If there’s a game going on, dogs are in!

That’s a trait that we use all the time. Dogs respond almost instantly to laughter and fun. So make everything fun for your dog.

In our student’s situation, she has to make a point of continuing the fun after the leash is on. 

Logically, if the fun stops when a particular thing happens, you’re going to avoid that thing.  If every time she put on her dog’s leash the dog immediately goes in the crate and stops having fun, the dog will avoid the leash.

Turn it around

Her plan of action is to have a special toy that only comes out right after the leash goes on. She won’t have to play for long, just long enough for the dog to associate more fun with putting on the leash. Then, since we’re always honest with our dogs, she’ll say something like “That’s all!” and end the game. 

Like almost everyone, her first instinct when her dog runs is to chase the dog. She’s going to make a conscious effort to run away from her dog. It goes against every impulse, but it’s how to get your dog running to you. (For more on ending that “Keep Away” game, this article helps. And this one to get your dog running to you every time.)

Most dogs love to chase. They also love you. So if you take off in the opposite direction, all the while yelling his/her name, your dog is going to chase you. 

Grab that collar

When your dog catches up to you, be sure to get hold of their collar before you reward. One of the first games we teach puppy people is the collar grab game, and it’s a life-saver. 

In an emergency situation, you need to grab hold of your dog. If the dog isn’t used to that, they’re going to shy away. If, on the other hand, they know the Collar Grab game, it’s not an issue. It’s one of the games we play regularly with our dogs to keep it ever fresh. You never know when you’ll need it.

Read the room

Your dog knows you. They know your habits, patterns, and routine. If your dog is always misbehaving when something is about to happen (getting in the car, putting on the leash, going in the crate, getting a bath), you’re giving off signals that the “bad” thing is imminent. Recognizing what’s happening will help you change it.

We’re not suggesting that you change your routine to “fool” the dog. That never works. And it means you’re lying to your dog, which is a huge no-no. Instead, examine the pattern and see where you can inject a game. Then play the game when it doesn’t matter. Your dog’s attitude will turn around so when you need to give them a bath, it’s another chance to play, not a sign that dog fun is done.

Take dog training games to the next level

Take your dog training games to the next level by combining tricks. What can Torque do next?
Torque “hides.”

After you’ve been playing training games with your dog for a while, you might have trouble coming up with new ideas. But you don’t always have to come up with something new. You can take your dog training games to the next level by putting them together.

Inspirational dog training

We’ve always loved dogs. But getting hooked on the training part came much later. Dogs are great, adorable, cuddly companions and friends. But the partnership truly blossoms through training. One of the very first, inspirational dog/people partnerships we saw was Carolyn Scott and her Golden Retriever Rookie:

That video is from 2006, competing in “Dog Freestyle,” or “Dog Dancing.” When you watch the video, you’ll see that nothing Rookie does is beyond your dog’s ability: spins, heeling, back up, around, etc. Fran is even working on the “Twine” behavior with Simon, where he “twines” between her legs as she walks. 

Only limit is imagination (and thumbs)

If you search for “dog dancing” or “dog freestyle” you’ll see tons of videos from around the world. Routines that people have come up with are truly amazing. Some use props, others, like Scott & Rookie”s routine, don’t. The only limit is what dogs are actually capable of manipulating without having thumbs. 

If you and your dog have mastered a couple of behaviors with 2-Minute Training games – how about putting them together? Then you’ll have a whole new trick and possibly the start of a dog dancing routine. Hope and Torque’s trick “Troll Under The Bridge” is actually three behaviors strung together: Come, Circle to Middle, and Back Up.

Could it be a component of a dog dancing routine? Absolutely! 

Dog dancing, or freestyle, is the precursor to the Elite Performer, or top level of AKC’s Trick Dog program. And you can still earn any level of Trick Dog title virtually. It’s a great way to show off your dog’s skills.

Use music for inspiration

If you have a favorite song, why not try to choreograph something for you and your dog? A complete song would require an enormous amount of planning, endurance, and training. But a 15-second snippet is both doable and fun. You already know how much training gets done in just two minutes. 15 seconds would definitely let you string together at least three to five behaviors.

It’s another way to have fun with your dog. What’s better than dancing the night away?

Training multiple dogs at one time

If you have more than one dog, is training multiple dogs at one time possible? Or even desirable?

Yes and no

It depends on what you’re training, how experienced the dogs are, how well they know each other, and how good you are at multi-tasking, and how many people are involved in the training. In other words, maybe.

If you have one person for each dog – absolutely possible! We recently talked about having our dogs run (walk really fast) on the treadmill to get in some exercise when it’s too hot to go out. One of us is “walking” the dog right next to our little training area. The other is having fun with a different dog, playing training games. 

At first, the “walking” dog was more interested in the training games. All of our dogs adore their 2-Minute sessions and thought they were missing out. They learned quickly that rewards come for road work, too. All are now fine with having “entertainment” while they get their miles in.

If you’re on your own, it gets a bit trickier.

To each, his own rewards

You can start by playing the same game with both dogs. Simple things like side-by-side sits, downs, spins, or even “Touch!” holding out a different hand to each dog. The key is to make sure each dog knows he’s not forgotten, and gets a “turn.” Dogs are generally great at being fair – as long as they get some time, attention, and treats!

All four of our dogs "Line up!" after coming in the house to get out of the crowded entryway.
“Line up!”

One of the group games we play is “line up!” We have all the dogs sit in a line and stay. Rewards are given to each in turn. The game originally came from trying to move all the dogs out of a narrow entry. Because dogs always stand in the most crowded doorway. That’s where the action is – that’s where they want to be.

Instead of saying “Move!” or trying to step around them and kill ourselves, we developed the “Line Up!” game. As they come in the house, we say “Line Up!” and they run over to sit on the kitchen mat. We say each dog’s name as we reward them, so they know whose turn it is. If somebody moves out of line, or tries to grab somebody else’s treat, the game stops. When everybody remembers his manners, the game resumes. 

We’re not entirely sure that “social pressure” works on dogs. We do know that when the game stops abruptly, the “good” dogs give the “naughty” one a dirty look.

Next step

The next step is to call one dog out of line. This lets the dogs know that they have to pay attention. You can either ask them to play a little game, or release them from “Line Up!” Call each dog for a game and/or release. And you’ve trained multiple dogs at once!

It’s also fun to try little behaviors in pairs. Both Obedience and Rally have “Pairs” competition. It’s a just-for-fun, or “non-regular” class of competition. And it always draws competitors, and audience, because it’s such a joy to watch.

Just hanging out in the yard, we’ll ask a couple of dogs for a simultaneous “Spin!” or “Front!” just because. They love doing it, and we love seeing them so happy and accomplished. These are the tiny little games you play just to have fun with your dog wherever you are, anytime you like. We also sometimes do a group recall for fun – when the dogs are wandering at the other side of the yard, call everybody and see who gets to us first. (“Get your dog to come dashing to you” has some great tips for the recall, or “Come!”)

Scaling up

A friend of ours who’s also addicted to playing training games posts trick training videos on social media. She’ll often have another dog hanging out on a cot in the background. It’s another level of training, and it didn’t happen all at once. 

Our friend frequently rewards the dog hanging out on the cot. It allows both dogs to adjust to the idea that they don’t have to be the center of attention all the time. That you do remember them. And that they’ll be rewarded for remembering the game they’re playing.

Just hanging out on the cot is an active game. Most people who have trouble with their dogs’ “Stay!” tend to think that their dog isn’t “working” when they’re staying. They are. And for active dogs, it can be the hardest game of all. 

Choose one or more

It’s up to you whether you choose to train more than one dog at a time. It’s certainly easier with just one. But two (or more) can multiply the fun!

Dealing with distractions in dog training

There are always going to be real-world distractions in dog training. It’s how you cope with them that matters.

You never know when “SQUIRREL!” will cross your path. But you can prepare your dog to deal with distractions.

Fran and Simon, her 3-year-old Boston Terrier, competed in his second agility trial recently. It was a familiar environment – the same place they have weekly classes. The obstacles and jumps were ones he knows. And yet – he was completely distracted. Why? There were people in the ring with him! 

In agility, volunteers are dispersed around the field to pick up dropped bars, reset jump heights, etc. to keep agility trials moving efficiently. But Simon had never seen people sitting on chairs in the ring before. So he felt compelled to go and say “Hi!” to all of them.

Distraction dog training

Dogs, like Simon, are going to notice things. That’s their nature. You can’t stop your dog from seeing and hearing the world around them. What you can do is show them how to stay focused despite distractions. 

Fran and Simon are training for distractions.
Simon’s paying attention to Fran instead of the distractions around.

How is Simon going to learn to pay attention to Fran (and what he’s supposed to be doing) instead of visiting? This week in class, she’s going to ask her classmates to pretend to be those trial volunteers. And she’s going to be more fun than people sitting quietly in chairs. When Simon goes to say “Hi!,” those classmates are going to sit still and look anywhere but at Simon. Fran’s going to run away from Simon (triggering his chase instinct and his inherent curiosity), calling him. And when he comes dashing after her, she’s  going to reward him mightily. And then they’ll continue running their agility practice.

The real-world application is the same. 

How to train for distractions

The key is right there. Be more interesting than the distraction. Our students are often hesitant about being noisy, or playing with toys, or over-rewarding their dogs in class. People are taught to not be “disruptive” or make a fuss in public.

Get over it. Your dog isn’t going to pay attention if you’re boring. And, realistically, no one’s paying attention to you, anyway. They’re watching your dog. What they see in your dog is up to you. They can admire the cute, well-trained dog with you. Or they can “tsk” and shake their heads over the poorly-behaving hooligan.

Time & patience

It’s really difficult for people to embrace the idea of rewarding your dog every single time he looks at you. It’s hard to watch your dog’s face and look where you’re going. That’s why you practice in familiar surroundings and straight lines, so you don’t trip and hurt yourself. But that focus on you – rewarding your dog EVERY SINGLE TIME they look at you, is the foundation for all good training. Focus is key.  (Check out the Looky Loo game for more distraction work.)

It doesn’t mean your dog stares adoringly into your eyes all the time, for every step. It means that they check in with you on a regular basis. Because they know it will be rewarded. What gets rewarded, gets repeated.

Calling it something

When you’re building the “check in” habit, you can call it “watch,” “here,” “check,” or whatever works for you. But it shouldn’t just be the dog’s name. Dogs hear their names constantly, with little or no information attached to it. So, more often than not, they ignore it. We have one student who says her dog’s name all the time, despite us hounding her not to. And when he hears it, he tends to look away, rather than at her. Because she’s reluctant to reward. When he does look at her, he gets an occasional “good boy!” even with us yelling “Reward that!” “Cookie him!”

Building the “check in” behavior pays dividends in the real world. If you’re out walking and see “SQUIRREL!” use your check-in and have rewards ready. The better the reward, the more likely your dog will find you more interesting than the distraction. In your dog’s opinion, you should be more interesting than anything else in the world. It’s not hard to do – they already adore you!

Eyes on the Prize

Setting priorities in dog training

When your dog does something unexpected in a training session, how do you react? Do you remember your priorities in dog training? Or do you allow your focus to wander?

Setting priorities in dog training: Torque's priority was to play with the training tool.
Torque’s priority during the training session was to chew the training tool…

Torque gave Hope a lesson in keeping priorities straight. In the middle of their 2-Minute Trainer video of the week, he decided to take off with the training game’s object, carry it off to a corner, and shred it to bits.

So she screamed “NO!” at him, wrestled it out of his mouth, smacked him with it, and crated him immediately. 

Of course not. You can see in the video that she takes a pause to figure out what Torque’s up to. Removes the toy, and attempts to regain his attention and focus. It’s semi-successful, but calls for a change in the plan.

There are two paths forward:

  • Change directions and teach Torque to use pool noodle pieces, not eat them.
  • Use something else for the “Push!” game and get on with life.

Decide what’s important

Is it worth it for Torque to learn not to eat pool noodles? When we think about how often he’ll encounter them, not really. If we used them for anything but dog training games, it might be important. But we have no pool, and he’s never going anywhere without us. The chances of him encountering and destroying other people’s pool noodles in the wild is minimal. So we’re going to make a different choice for his training games.

That’s how you keep your eyes on the prize. Torque showed us the object we were using for the game isn’t a viable option. So we’ll use something else. That’s keeping your dog training priorities in order. We talked about training certain behaviors regardless of the public’s perception of any breed’s intelligence some time ago.

Be ready to shift gears

“Shifting gears” used to be something every driver had to know how to do. Nowadays, most people probably don’t even know the origin of the phrase. But it’s still a good one. Drivers of manual transmission cars had to pay attention to multiple inputs (speed, traffic, signals, etc.) and be ready to literally shift gears to adjust. Constantly. 

Dog training requires that you’re paying attention to what your dog is telling you and be ready to shift gears and adjust. Torque’s theft of the pool noodle was him saying “I don’t know what you want, so I’m leaving.” His repetition of that means “Shredding this thingie is highly rewarding to me, so I’m going to keep doing it.”

Given a choice, dogs will always opt for the most rewarding action. At that moment, shredding the noodle was more rewarding than playing with Hope. Gears have to shift. The game has to get more fun, and the object less so. 

Always communicating

Your dog is always providing feedback on your training. If you pay attention to what their behavior and body language tells you, your partnership will thrive. 

And be ready to shift on the fly (back to car references!). If, instead of a pool noodle, Torque had suddenly decided that books are wonderful to destroy, we would have to address that. If it matters to you, you can make it matter to your dog. You set your own priorities in dog training.

Freestyle dog training game

How do you make up new training games with your dog? Let your dog lead the way with the Freestyle dog training game.

The hardest thing about playing the Freestyle game is letting your dog take control. You don’t decide any part of the Freestyle dog training game, other than when to play and how long.

It goes like this: in a safe space, put out a few different objects and let your dog have fun. There are no “wrong” answers. The only thing you can do to guide your dog is stand next to or look at one of the objects. Anything the dog does is “clickable” as long as he/she isn’t trying to eat it or run off with it.

Boom game

Some dogs are more creative than others. Some dogs make up all kinds of games and behaviors and do things we never would have thought to teach them. Other dogs rely on known games and adapt them to new circumstances.

By observing what your dog does, the things he/she particularly likes, and what he/she does with them, you can develop new games.

Two of our most recent examples:

Booker playing his own Freestyle dog training game, "Boom!"
Booker playing his own Freestyle dog training game, “Boom!”

Boom! Dog training game. Booker (Fran’s 9-year-old Boston Terrier) loves knocking things over. Fran made note of it and developed his “Boom!” game. She puts out a series of soft, vertical objects (foam rollers, yoga mats, pool noodles stuffed onto dollar-store paper-towel holders). And Booker goes through the maze knocking them over one by one. By saying “Good Boom!” he’s learned the word and now will run over to “Boom!” any vertical object. Fortunately, he’s too little to apply the behavior to people.

Fran’s younger Boston, 3-year-old Simon, is a bit of an obsessive/compulsive personality. When he puts his toys away, he tries to stack them neatly. Especially empty tuna cans. He carried the tendency over into his Freestyle game, always trying to stack objects. So Fran picked up some little stacking bowls (did we mention the dollar store is one of our favorite places for dog training equipment?). She was right about his neatnik tendencies – in Simon’s very first “Stack It!” session he caught on. Fran’s only played “Stack It!” with him a couple of times so far. And he doesn’t yet understand multiple bowls can go in the same stack, not just two. He’ll get there. 

Let your dog show the way

Freestyle sessions are also great when you’re out of ideas and don’t feel like playing an old standard. It’s also a great game when you’re tired. All you have to do is stand there, click, reward, and say “good.” 

The hardest thing about Freestyle is resisting the temptation to guide your dog. Our first exposure to dog training was with a trainer who told us “Never let a dog make a decision!” (See our article, “Follow your dog’s Lead.”) When, in reality, we strive to do exactly the opposite. Training is all about teaching dogs to make good decisions. 

Dog training step by step

We’ve all heard the saying that “the journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” That’s true for dog training, too. This is a journey that we’re on, and since it lasts the dog’s entire life, we all hope it’s a very long one. Dog training step by step means your dog thoroughly understands, trusts you completely, and loves you completely.

Sometimes it may seem like you’re not getting anywhere fast. And you may not be. Steady progress is difficult to measure. Especially when you have a 2-Minute game session that doesn’t go particularly well. That’s one of the beauty parts of the system – even the worst game session is only two minutes long. While we often want the good ones to last longer, we’re grateful the bad ones end quickly.

Baby steps get you there

If you have a dog who loves playing fetch, it’s a great game. If your dog doesn’t understand any part of it, it’s a complex behavior that your dog can learn to love playing. There are lots of moving parts to fetch:

  • Wait while you throw the toy.
  • Run after the toy.
  • Find the toy.
  • Pick up the toy.
  • Hold the toy.
  • Run back with the toy.
  • Drop the toy. 

If you have a non-fetching dog, not a single one of those steps comes naturally to your dog. Every one of them can be taught as a separate game. But if you’ve ever thrown a toy for a dog who sat there and looked at you, you know it’s impossible to teach the entire game at one time. If your dog is a “if you wanted it, why did you throw it away?” kind of dog, you know what we mean.

Keep it small and doable

Torque looks confused - whenever it's not dog training step by step.
Is Torque confused because the step was too big?

When every step is its own game, with a reward for small steps, no one gets discouraged. If you ask too much of your dog, they may disengage. Stress behaviors might include walking away, turning their head, licking their lips, yawning, or scratching. If you see any of those, it’s time to step back and assess the situation. Did you ask too much? Is the step you’re taking too big? Can you break it down smaller? We recently broke down the steps for Tango’s favorite game – “Put your toys away.”

Recently Hope was starting to teach the Utility Obedience exercise “Directed Retrieve.” In this exercise, three gloves are evenly spaced apart at one end of the ring. The dog is supposed to fetch the glove his owner points at. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque knows how to go get stuff and bring it back to Hope. He loves the dumbbell retrieve that’s another Obedience exercise.

Torque was completely flummoxed by the Directed Retrieve. Even though he knows “Get It!,” he was unfamiliar with the gloves, the multiple objects, and Hope’s directional signal. So Hope’s breaking it down. After a few 2-Minute games, Torque will now pick up the glove and carry it. He’s working on dropping it on command. And he’s still figuring out how to tell which one to get. 

Too much to swallow

It’s discouraging to fail. Torque didn’t recognize that “fetch the glove” was pretty much the same as “fetch the dumbbell.” We’ve mentioned before that dogs don’t generalize, and here was another proof. Now each part of the exercise is a separate game. 

If your dog truly isn’t making progress with something you want to teach, think about the smaller steps you can take. The way to keep your 2-Minute dog training games fast, fun, and effective is to keep the steps small. You’ll get where you’re going, whether you take small steps or giant leaps to get there.

You can’t cram dog training

Scenario: You’re hosting a big, buffet-style party in a couple of weeks. Your dog is a counter-surfing expert. Nothing on any flat surface is safe. Sadly, you don’t have time to change that. You can’t cram dog training.

In this case, managing the situation is the best you can do. You can either secure your dog away from the food, or have him on leash and tethered to a responsible person throughout the party. Left to her own devices, your dog will find the most rewarding option. Which would be a festival of party food.

Assigning someone to guard the banquet isn’t ideal, either. That person’s only option would be to reprimand the dog for being naughty. If your dog doesn’t know the “right” choice, they default to what’s most rewarding. In this scenario, it’s a feast.

Crisis training doesn’t work

You can't cram dog training. Simon thinks he can help himself to the salad on the kitchen table.
Simon thinks he can help himself to the salad on the kitchen table.

You can’t train a dog “stay off the counter” during a party. Likewise, you can’t train a dog to “stay” when the delivery guys are currently in and out of your house. If push has come to shove, your option is to manage the situation and the dog. (We talked about setting your counter-surfing dog up for success a while ago.)

Remember there are three ways to deal with dog behavior; ignore, manage, or train. 

If you choose to ignore something your dog does, they’ll keep doing it. That’s okay, since it doesn’t bother you enough to do something about it. 

In an urgent situation, like our fictional party or deliveries, the best option is management. Without a thorough understanding of what to do, your dog may get in trouble. If you need your entire attention on other chaos, manage your dog’s access. Securing your dog in another room or in a crate is a viable management choice. Trying to cram dog training in before a deadline is a losing proposition.

The long-term solution is to train your dog to cope with temptation and excitement. Athletes, musicians, and dancers practice constantly to build their “muscle memory.” Similarly, dogs rely on well-trained responses to decide their actions in somewhat familiar situations.

Set up for success

If your dog is a counter-surfer, set up training sessions to teach them how to react. This is a perfect time for a 2-Minute session. 

Put a handful of yummy food on the counter and stand there. If your dog sniffs at it, paws at it, attempts to reach it in any way, cover it. You can use your hand or a bowl or container. 

When the dog backs off, click (or praise) and reward. If the dog sits, even better! Praise and reward from the handful of food that’s already there. You’re teaching your dog that you are the source of all good things. She doesn’t get to help herself.

It’s an easy concept for people. Ask politely and you’ll get what you want. 

Since we want our dogs to be comfortable in human society, they need to learn manners. Dogs have instincts. Manners must be taught. We empower our dogs by giving them the tools, and manners they need.