Tag: dog behavior

Dogs are Copycats

It’s not your imagination. Dogs are copycats. Your dog copies what you do. Copying is one of the ways dogs learn. And it’s not restricted to watching and imitating other dogs. Dogs mimic people, too. That’s why you shouldn’t be surprised if your dog starts digging in the yard after “helping” you with gardening. 

Even more impressive, one study proved that dogs not only can copy what you do – they can do it with a significant delay between the time it happened and they’re asked to repeat it. 

Demonstrate what you want

A while ago, when we were first developing the Ring Stacking game, Hope was teaching her French Bulldog Teddy the steps. We’d just started taking video of the sessions, so the camera was on. 

Teddy had just about all pieces of the game; picking up the ring and going over to the post. The actual placement of the ring on the post was the issue. He kept nudging the post, dropping the ring in the vicinity, but not placing it on the actual post. 

In the video, you see Hope showing Teddy what she wants. She probably was doing it out of frustration, rather than really demonstrating. But then you see Teddy stand there and think about it, then place the ring precisely on the post. 

At the time, we didn’t know for sure that dogs learn by copying. But it paid off.

Other dogs show them how

It’s true that puppies learn from an older dog in the house. Potty training is much easier when the newcomer has an example to follow. Same with other household rules – most puppies will follow the lead of the established dog. That’s a big reason that two dogs are easier than one, although not if both are the same age. Or littermates. For most people, getting littermates isn’t a great idea.

It’s optimal to play training games with only one dog at a time. But that doesn’t mean training in isolation. With four dogs in the house, three are in crates at the side of the training area, watching the proceedings.

Did you teach him that?

Sometimes when we’re ready to introduce a dog to a game another dog knows, we’ve been surprised. While performance isn’t perfect, the dog already knows the game. It prompts a discussion that goes 

“Did you teach him that? I didn’t teach him that!”

“Wasn’t me!” 

“Oh, he got it from his brother!”

Try it for yourself

Think of something to do that your dog can copy. In the research we read, one of the things owners did in the lab was stick their heads in an empty bucket. A vast majority of the dogs in the study were able to copy the action after seeing it only once.

Make sure the demonstration is something the dog is physically able to do. Our dogs are too short to get their heads in a five-gallon bucket, so we’ll use something lower. Give the action a name, like “Copy!” using it for all kinds of different actions. 

That’s how you teach the dog to mimic you, rather than performing a specific behavior. We’ve even seen it in action with the dolphins at the Dolphin Research Center in Marathon, Florida. The trainers there use a specific signal for “Imitate!”

In no time, you and your dog will be playing “Simon Says!” with all sorts of behaviors. Be sure to get it on video – you’ll need proof of your dog’s genius!

Dog Training “D’s” aren’t grades

D is for dog. It’s also for the three things that can torpedo any behavior, trick, or exercise. The three dog training “d’s” are Distance, Duration, and Distraction.

You need all three if you want to be successful in any dog sport or performance event. They matter for household obedience, too. But you can’t “work” on all of them at once. Pick one at a time. There are games you can play for each one, but only one per 2-Minute session.

Distance is hard

If you’re teaching your dog “Stay!” the three “d’s” are crucial components of the behavior. Whether you’re letting the plumber in the house, carrying a pasta pot, or hosting Great Aunt Gertrude for afternoon tea, there are times you’d appreciate it if your dog would just not move. A reliable “Stay!” is worth the effort it takes to achieve.

Don’t ever consider a “Stay!” anything but hard work. The last thing most dogs want is to sit back and observe. They want to be part of the action, in the thick of it. To teach your dog to “Stay!” choose a spot that’s very quiet, away from any commotion. If there’s no such thing, pick a place where the dog can see what’s going on without moving.

You can work on the distance “D” by having your dog sit in the middle of a room so that you can move all the way around them. Tell them to stay and start moving. Picture your dog as the hub of a wheel, and you move back and forth between the hub and the rim – be the spokes. Vary the distance you move every time – sometimes take a single step, middle distance, as far as you can get. Then go directly back to your dog and reward them for staying every time you finish a “spoke.” Move at an even pace, but keep moving all the time. 

If your dog gets up, or lies down, don’t fix it. Use your non-reward marker and move your dog to a different position and start over. Out and back to your dog. Make it speedy at first. You can slow down your motion as your dog becomes more familiar with the exercise and starts to understand what’s expected. The faster you move, the more times you get back to your dog, the more rewards your dog gets for staying in place. 

Duration is harder

When you work on the duration aspect of the stay, don’t leave your dog. Stand there right next to, or in front of, your dog. The first time you practice “duration” keep the reward rate high and steady. Try not to test the limits of your dog’s patience at first. Watch your dog for signs of movement, as mentioned in teaching the “Stay!,” the only things the dog’s allowed to move are his/her head or tail. Any paw movement isn’t a “Stay!” If you see it, start over again in a different spot. You don’t have to move far, but you should reset and try again. 

You may find that your dog thinks they’re finished as soon as they get a treat. This is “one and done” syndrome and it’s fairly common. The fix is to have a second reward ready to pop into your dog’s mouth as soon as they swallow the first one. 

Because of the many, many treats dogs can consume for this exercise, it’s a good one for hand-feeding a meal, or a portion of a meal. Another “kitchen game” to play with your dog.

As your dog starts to understand, increase the interval between rewards, and practice the “Stay!” in all positions – Sit, Stand, and Down. 

Distraction is hardest of all

When we first started training in Obedience, one of our instructors took distraction to the maximum. With the dogs at one side of the room, and the handlers at the other, she would send a moving toy down the middle, between the dogs and handlers. The radio-controlled car, the toy monkey with cymbals, and the walking elephant toy were favorites. The most difficult for the dogs was the tennis ball she rolled down the center.

Those are all extreme distractions, not to be used until your dog is well-versed in the “Stay!” At first you can ask someone to bang a pot in the other room. Or call your phone. If there’s no one else around, you can turn up your phone’s volume and play any sound you think your dog would find distracting. A doorbell sound is the bane of many a dog owner – whether it’s in real life or on TV.

Put the Ds together

When your dog is doing okay in each of the three “D’s” – put them together. As long as your dog is showing you they know what’s expected of them, gradually increase the difficulty of the exercise. In the Canine Good Citizen test, the most difficult part for the dog is staying with a stranger while their person leaves the room. Technically, the dog doesn’t have to “Stay!” – they just have to be calm and not fuss too much. Teaching your dog the three “D’s” will help. 

Think about those “D’s” whenever you’re training your dog. Does your dog “Sit!” from across the room? Can she maintain a “Stand!” for the length of a veterinary visit? Will your dog ignore the bicyclist zooming by on your walk?  These are all situations that use those “D’s.”

Why dogs can’t use forks everywhere

What an odd thing to say! Of course dogs can’t use forks. Why is that relevant for dog training?

It came up the other day when a new student of ours asked “Why does my dog know this stuff at home and not here?” (Patience, we’re getting to the forks part.)

It’s a good question, and one that addresses a fundamental difference between the way people think and the way dogs think. People generalize. Dogs don’t. 

What does that mean? Basically it’s that your dog knows “Sit!” in the kitchen at home with you facing him/her and holding a treat. It’s knowledge in context, with a specific set of conditions. Change the conditions, and the knowledge isn’t there. Try it outside, or at training class, and your dog has no clue what the word “Sit!” means.

For people, it’s different. (Here come the forks!) Once you know how to use a fork, you know how to use every fork in the world, regardless of where you are, what the fork is made of, or what it looks like. A fork with only two tines? No problem. Plastic, bamboo, or metal? Not an issue. Your knowledge of “fork” expands to include all forks, everywhere.

Getting past the problem

The solution is to vary your training so that your dog learns to generalize. Randomly, wherever you are, tell your dog to “Sit!” And be prepared to reward when he/she does. If your dog doesn’t sit – just wait. Give them time to think and process. “We’re not in the kitchen, but the sound she’s making is familiar, and her hand up like that means she has a cookie.” Give the message time to make its way from your dog’s brain to their hindquarters. Be patient. And reward generously for success.

Just because your dog doesn’t, by nature, generalize doesn’t mean they can’t. But creating new ways of thinking takes some time and consistency. And the skill, once it’s attained, has to be practiced. Every command your dog learns has to expand in range. 

It sounds like a lot of time and effort, but it’s really not. Once your dog gets with the program, it’s easy and fun to try. Yesterday, while Fran and Simon were waiting around for Novice Obedience class to start, she gave him the “Troll!” command (from “Front!” the dog goes around to your right and goes between your legs, looking up at you). And he did it! Even though he’d never done it in that place before. 

Expand their horizons

One of the beauty parts of the 2-Minute Trainer method is that you can always back up. If your dog’s understanding of something is “iffy” in new circumstances, just go back as far as you need to. Whatever steps you took to teach the dog in the first place can be recreated. Your dog will most likely remember quickly: “Oh, I remember that now!” 

When you build a firm foundation for your dog’s learning, it’s not just easier to teach them to generalize. It also opens the pathways for learning new things and building on known skills. Creating variations of games also helps. For example: if you teach your dog to retrieve an Obedience dumbbell, what happens if you place it on the floor at a distance instead of throwing it? What if the dumbbell is on end, instead of on its side? Or if, instead of dropping it, you ask your dog to carry it while heeling? 

Teach dogs to use every fork

Practically speaking, dogs who absolutely know what they’re supposed to be doing will do it when asked, anytime, anywhere. Another example is the “Figure 8” obedience exercise. Most people train the exercise as it’s performed in competition: heel around two cones, crossing in the center, then halt. Then do it again. 

Training only the exercise as it’s required in competition means that the dogs are pattern trained. They can do the exercise all by themselves without their person. They don’t understand that it’s about paying attention to their person and heeling together as a team. The goal should be building your teamwork, not the mechanics of the exercise. 

Instead of the “real” exercise; put out three cones, or four. Go any which way, asking your dog to stay with you. If they don’t know where you’re going, they have to pay attention. Another variation on the behavior that grows your dog’s understanding.

Generally speaking

The joy and challenge of dog training is to build your dog’s understanding. When you see your dog “get” something you’ve been teaching, the feeling of pride, for both of you, is exhilarating. It may take patience to get there, but it’s worth it.

Manage your dog’s fear of fireworks

You can train your dog to ignore fireworks. But it’s a process that takes time. If you’re here to get help for July 4, 2023, call your veterinarian instead. Start the training, but less than a month isn’t enough time to make the behavior secure. And call now, not on July 3. Some medications need to build up in the dog’s system. In other words, there are no fast and easy fixes for fear of fireworks.

What to do now

For this year, just talk to your vet about your dog’s intense fear of fireworks and pick up whatever prescriptions, supplements, or herbals they recommend. Then start making your plans for the nights the fireworks are worst in your area. The last couple of years have been particularly noisy – starting at around Memorial Day and continuing through July 5. We’re very lucky that none of the current crew cares about the noise. We had a dog with tremendous fireworks and thunder anxiety, so we empathize completely with those who do. It’s not easy when someone you love is terrified. There’s no way to explain to them that the fireworks (or thunder) can’t and won’t hurt them. 

What you can do is make plans to occupy your dog (and yourself) with fun and noisy things. With the windows covered, and loud distractions happening inside your home, the impact is lessened. Oddly, most dogs are perfectly fine watching loud fireworks on TV. If you want to watch the holiday coverage, it’s not necessarily a no-no, even if your dog is frightened.

Don’t let them hide alone

Some dogs are so terrified of fireworks that they seek out small, enclosed places. We’ve heard many stories of dogs hiding in bathtubs during fireworks displays or thunderstorms. Dogs tend to like small, enclosed spaces. Especially when they’re feeling insecure.

One of the benefits of becoming your dog’s training partner is establishing yourself as a safe space for your dog. While it may be too late to alleviate your dog’s fear of fireworks and change your their reaction for this year, you can make a difference by staying with them. And make sure they’re securely attached to you whenever you take them outside that day. The 4th of July is the number one day of dogs getting lost. Shelters report that July 5 is always their busiest day. If a firework blast goes off suddenly, even the best-trained dog may take off running. Don’t take a chance. Hook them up for the holiday.

If there are scheduled fireworks displays where you are, time your outings for before and after the shows. Most start after sundown, so time your longest walk for the daylight hours. You can’t do anything about individuals shooting off fireworks, but you can avoid the planned show times.

Make it loud inside

Do you like adventure movies? Pick a line-up of your favorite, noisy movies and play them, loudly, all day (or videos of football games!). Close the blinds. Make some popcorn. And teach your dog to catch the popcorn. You probably shouldn’t play any training games that matter – your dog will probably be distracted. But some aromatic and delicious popcorn (no butter or salt!) may be worth paying attention.

Close the blinds or drapes. Make the inside bright, turn on every light around. It’s easier for both dogs and people to be frightened in the dark. If you have an inside room or basement, try to make that your hang-out space during the loudest hours.

Plan ahead for next year

You can start training your dog to ignore the booming of fireworks. Find a recording of a fireworks show and play it, softly, while you’re playing training games with your dog. As your dog learns to ignore it and have fun with you, you can gradually turn up the volume for each 2-Minute session. This is another example of “Real World Dog Training.” If your dog loves the popcorn-catching game, save it for fireworks. Your dog will come to associate something they love with fireworks, instead of being terrified. 

Your dog may never be able to calmly go with you to the local park for the Fourth of July fireworks show. That’s okay – it’s not the goal. Success is your dog acting like it’s just another day playing with you, instead of shivering under the bed.

Wait for your dog

Are you a good enough dog trainer to wait for your dog? Do you give them the time they need to process and take action?

Everybody wants their dog to get things right. Especially when they’re out in public. It’s understandable. We all want the world to know how wonderful our dogs are. And they are. If they’re allowed the time they need.

We’ve said before that the hardest part of dog training is doing nothing. Just waiting for your dog can be agonizing. Whether it’s remembering something they should do, or trying something new, dogs need time to think, process, and react.

Building patience

Just this week in Hope’s Obedience competition class, one of the dog/handler teams had a moment. Jessie, a gorgeous Bouvier des Flandres, and his dad were doing the Recall. (Handler leaves dog in a sit/stay, walks across the room, turns and faces dog, calls dog, dog runs and sits in front of handler.) David called Jessie, who bounded across the room (good boy!). And stood in front of David. Just stood. (Image from akc.org.)

Hope told David to wait. To look at Jessie’s butt. And wait. Don’t say anything, don’t do anything, don’t move. Just wait. 

David and Jessie have been in class long enough that Jessie knows what he’s supposed to do. But Jessie’s young, and a bit silly and pushy. He tests what he can get away with. And, like every single person on the planet, David wanted to “help” his dog get it right. We could all see him itching to say “Sit!”

But he didn’t say it. And, after what seemed like half an hour to everybody, but was probably less than a minute, Jessie sat. David celebrated with his dog and everybody else cheered. We’re not sure if anyone else was holding their breath, waiting for Jessie, but we certainly were.

No matter how long you’ve been training dogs, no matter how well you know the dog, they’re still dogs. There can always be a surprise factor, a random distraction, a momentary brain glitch.

How do you know how long?

One of the questions people have is “How long should I wait?” The simple answer is “as long as your dog is still trying.” If your dog is still engaged, still happy to be playing the training game with you, keep waiting. But if your 2-Minute timer buzzes, keep waiting if you have some extra time. As long as your dog is paying attention, interested in the game, and not quitting on you – give them all the time they need. Wait for your dog.

Some of the very best training is achieved by letting the dog puzzle it through. We can all think of a situation where we figured out how to do something, instead of being told. And just by figuring it out ourselves, we knew it forever. Thinking through a problem cements the solution in your memory.

Did it work?

In competition class, everyone takes turns doing the Recall. We usually practice it two or three times. And it would be lovely if we could report that Jessie’s second turn this week had a triumphant, instantaneous “Sit!” That didn’t happen. Same thing – he ran over and stood in front of David. But this time, there was a difference in Jessie’s attitude. It was almost like he was asking David if he really meant it. David stood quiet and let Jessie think it through. Jessie sat.

Every dog is unique

Whether you have a houseful of dogs, or only one at a time, you know that every dog is unique. Even if they’re all the same breed. Even if they’re closely related. Just like you and your siblings are distinct and different individuals, so are dogs.

Most people, especially dog people, know this. But almost every one of us disregards it, to some extent, in training our dogs. Whatever annoying things your last dog did, you’ve trained this one not to. 

Teddy loved to be carried.

Everyone does some overcompensating for past mistakes. We’ve done it, too. For example, when Hope’s French Bulldog Teddy was a puppy, she carried him around all the time. When he grew up, weighed 26 pounds, and wanted to be carried around all the time, Hope realized the error of her ways.. 

So when Torque came along, she was conscientious about having him walk on his own four feet. It worked too well. Picking Torque up scares him, and he hates being carried around. 

Everybody does it

We’ve seen other examples among our beginner obedience students. One of the dogs in the last session was a Standard Poodle, not even two years old. This dog is a frequent victim of my-other-dog-itis. Their other dog (whom we’ve never met), sounds like a smart, problem-solving, mischief-making large-and-in-charge dog. And because of their experience with their first dog, the Poodle basically wasn’t allowed to make his own decisions about anything, ever.

At first, the Poodle’s lack of interest or engagement in any training games had us puzzled. Poodles, especially Standards, are among the brightest dog breeds. They’re intelligent and trainable dogs with a sense of humor and a touch of goofiness. Most Poodles would be right in there, playing training games and willing to keep playing just about forever.

Then we kept hearing about this family’s other dog; how smart she is, what a troublemaker she is, and how she was “alpha” in the household. We haven’t talked much about the “alpha” dog thing – because it’s nonsense and we wish it would go away. But there are still people subscribing to that disproved theory. 

And the light bulb turned on. This dog wasn’t engaging in training games because he never had the chance to experiment, try things, make mistakes, get over them, and keep playing. 

Let them learn

The Poodle people didn’t want a repetition of their older dog. So they tightly controlled every aspect of this dog’s life. He didn’t know how to make good decisions, because he’d never had to make any decisions at all. He didn’t know “trying” was an option. 

Fortunately, his people extended themselves to embrace training games. By the end of the session, this dog started to think for himself and started to show his real potential. He’s turning into the Poodle he could be. Allowing your dog the time it takes, being patient, consistent, and trusting in the process isn’t something every dog person can do.

A friend of ours, who is a top-tier Obedience competitor, freely admits she doesn’t have the patience to do the hardest thing in dog training – waiting. Doing nothing while the dog figures things out. And now that she has a young dog who lacks confidence, it’s a big problem.

Build them up

A dog who plays training games is a more confident dog. That dog has been rewarded for making good decisions. Has earned praise for thinking. That dog knows how to figure things out. That dog also trusts their person to give them feedback when they choose wisely. And knows their person won’t let anything bad happen to them. 

As your dog’s trainer, it’s up to you to foster your dog’s confidence. It’s absolutely natural to try to avoid mistakes you may have made with past dogs. And you should, by all means, try to make all new mistakes with a different dog. Always keeping in mind that every dog is unique.

You can’t teach dogs “don’t”

There’s no way to teach dogs “don’t” 

“Stop! Don’t do that!” When you say it in “Mom Voice,” most children will freeze and stare at you. Whatever they were caught doing stops immediately. Dogs? Not so much. It’s practically impossible to teach a dog “don’t. That’s the biggest difference between talking to a toddler and a dog. 

You can't teach dogs "don't," but you can teach them to do something else instead of jumping.

That doesn’t mean dogs get away with unacceptable behaviors. But when someone asks how to teach their dog “not to jump,” it’s the wrong question. A better, faster, easier approach is to give the dog something else to do instead of jumping on people. (We educated our cousin how to refocus her dog from jumping not long ago.)

Instead behaviors

Think about it. All of the successful things you’ve taught your dog, from potty-training to complex tricks, are teaching them what to do. Not what not to do. If you just thought “Wait! Potty training is teaching the dog not to eliminate in the house!” That’s how you think of it. In fact, what you’ve trained your dog is where they should eliminate. 

It’s the same for any other dog’s naughty behavior. We teach our dogs to “Sit!” as a response to a doorbell ringing or a knock on the door. They’re doing something, instead of “not” jumping.

For a while, we believed our dogs knew how to “Leave it!” It’s what we used when their noses poked into the wastebaskets, or they obsessed over the place the bunny dove under the gate. What we really taught our dogs was to refocus on us and get rewarded. Instead of the negative “stop that” behavior intended, we got a “look at me” behavior. That realization changed nothing. We still got what we wanted. Our dogs leave the thing alone. And we still say “Leave it!” because that’s what we’re all used to.

Call it whatever you want

Do the dogs understand the phrase “leave it?” No. They understand that when they hear those words there’s something they’re supposed to do. As long as you’re consistent with the words you attach to behaviors, it works. Like Humpty Dumpty in Alice in Wonderland: “When I use a word… it means just what I choose it to mean – neither more nor less.”

So although the “Leave it!” command is phrased as something “not” to do, there’s actually a positive “something” to do attached. If there’s anything your dog does that you wish they wouldn’t, the most effective way to change the behavior is to give them something to do instead.

Works for all kinds of things

Changing how you phrase things gives you the ability to translate it into “dog.” Since you can’t teach your dogs don’t pull on the leash, instead train them to walk at your side. Rather than “stop counter-surfing,” teach them where their “Place!” is in the kitchen. Substitute “get your toy” for barging into someone coming in the door. 

Think about the things your dog does that annoy you. Be honest – every dog is occasionally annoying. Picture what you’d like your dog to do in those circumstances. Then you’ll have a plan to turn things around. What would you like him/her to be doing instead? And how can you make a training game out of it? Now you’re thinking like a dog trainer.

Electronic fences are dog tasers

Ever been tempted by the ads for in-ground electric fences that will keep your dog “safely” in your yard? Did you know it’s advertising dog tasers? 

Did you hear Hope’s head explode this week? It happened on Monday when she was following up with a new student in her Manners/Obedience class. The person asked “Can you explain to me what’s aversive about an electric dog fence?” (She used the trademarked brand name.)

Dog playing in yard

Really? Seriously? Stick a collar on your dog with metal spikes facing his neck, turn it on, and you have the equivalent of a taser aimed at your dog. And that taser goes off with the press of a button.

After Hope picked her jaw up off the floor, she explained that administering an electric shock is a painful punishment that relies on fear. At this point, the student said the company installing / training her new fence had modified its methods. This time, they didn’t run the dog through the fence to train it. OMG!

Think about it

When a company has in its FAQs on its website that its product doesn’t really hurt the animal, something’s wrong. “The correction from a (collar) may be uncomfortable and startling to your pet, it will not hurt them. Many pets only feel the correction once or twice and don’t challenge the system afterwards.” The reason the pet doesn’t challenge the system is because it’s afraid of being zapped again. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

Anything that causes your dog pain, fear, or “discomfort” is an aversive. And that’s not even the worst part of electronic fences. The worst part is that, in the heat of a chase, your dog may barrel through the barrier and not care, hyped up on adrenaline. And then, when the excitement subsides, they can’t get back into the yard without getting zapped. So they don’t.

Careful marketing

We see ads all the time for different products that promise to instantly solve dog problems; barking, pulling, jumping, chewing. All of them claim not to hurt the dog. They’re all liars.

There are no fast and easy “fixes” for dog behavior. Anything that promises an instant fix relies on doing something the dog doesn’t like. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. But at least look for something that adheres to the LIMA philosophy of “least intrusive, minimally aversive.” Dogs don’t necessarily love the no-pull harness that we carry in our shop. But it doesn’t cause long-term damage to the dog’s shoulders, as front-attaching harnesses do. And using it doesn’t cause discomfort or “startle” the dog. They may not like being drawn in a different direction (toward you), but it doesn’t cause them pain.

The air-horn type devices that are marketed to stop barking, the “silent” correctors – these are all aversives designed to stop some dog behavior. But all of them rely on you having the controller and being willing to “startle” your dog. None of them teach the dog anything but to be afraid of the thing. And possibly afraid of you. (We’ve written before that dog training shouldn’t hurt. And all dog training should strengthen the bond you have with your dog.)

Make a difference

You love your dog. Why on earth would you want to do something that causes them pain? Or even “discomfort?” Especially when there are other means that not only work better, but are actually fun for both of you? Positive reinforcement training does take time. Hopefully, you and your dog have a lifetime to play together. Make the most of it. Do it with kindness, and fun. 

Dog Training Plan B

There is no “one size fits all” to dog training. Your first attempt at training a new behavior may work, but dog training needs a “Plan B.”

One of the nifty things about dog training is that you can see it working. You can see the dog thinking, trying to solve the puzzle. And they love the process of problem-solving. Dogs trained with games are always happy to try. But what if the dog can’t do it? It’s time to present the question in a different way.

Dog Training Plan A

Cagney, the exuberant black lab mix pup.
Cagney, the exuberant black lab mix pup

We were visiting with family this past week and got to meet their 10-month-old Black Lab mix puppy.  Cagney is a really nice puppy. He gets along with their 14-year-old Pom mix, their small children, and is a happy, friendly pup. Who jumps to say hi. And to steal stuff off the counters.

When we came in, Cagney greeted us by jumping up. He’s a tall boy – his front paws were easily able to rest on our shoulders. An exuberant, but rude, greeting

And, like almost every puppy owner out there, our cousin reached for Cagney’s collar, pulled him away, and said “No jumping.” Needless to say, as soon as she released the collar, he was jumping again.

When asked, our cousin gave us the go-ahead to try something else. So we started the tried-and-true method of turning our backs on Cagney. He loved the game. He just followed us around in circles to jump some more. Apparently, there’s a lot of spinning in circles with little kids around. Cagney had fun, but it didn’t work as a “stop jumping” game.

Shifting to a new plan

Dogs always follow the path that’s most rewarding for them. Cagney’s goal was to get our attention. And, from his perspective, he succeeded. His jumping has always gotten him attention – either from the person he was jumping on, or from his people getting hold of him. Either way, his goal was met. 

We had to shift his thinking. Another way of stopping a dog’s attention-grabbing behavior is just to leave the vicinity. Walking away from the dog takes away the game and usually stops it cold. But Cagney is, once again, accustomed to the behavior of small children, who constantly run around. That method wouldn’t work with him.

The response to Cagney’s jumping is to stop everything. Movement, conversation, looking, grabbing, everything. We folded our arms and stared at the ceiling. Cagney didn’t understand at first, pawing at our arms, and jumping. This is where the hardest part of dog training comes in. We just stood there, silently. In just a few moments, Cagney’s puzzlement (or frustration), caused him to just sit. And he was immediately praised, rewarded, petted, and fussed over. He attempted to jump. Arms folded, eyes on the ceiling. He sat again. Praise, pets, and treats.

Not a doggy genius

And just like that, with only a couple of repetitions, Cagney got the idea. There were a couple of times over the next few hours that he forgot himself and jumped. But he learned just that fast – when he wanted our attention, he came over and sat. The “be patient and ignore” method also works with nuisance barking as a Plan A or a Plan B.

Is the jumping problem “solved?” No, not yet. It will take a while before the 10 months of jumping is overridden by the new sitting behavior. If our cousin doesn’t keep it up, it won’t last at all. And until it’s a habit to greet people by sitting, our cousin will have to get all visitors to “fold and stare.” And reward heavily every time he successfully sits instead of jumping.

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. When Cagney makes the right decision to sit, praise has to be almost instantaneous for him to make the connection. Puppies especially have a very short attention span, and if there’s a lag between behavior and praise, the link may not take.

Planning ahead

The reason we have a variety of games to play for almost every dog behavior is so we can adapt to the dogs we meet. What works for one dog, may not work for another. Just like people, they have different learning styles, different experiences, and different knowledge sets. 

If the game you’re playing with your dog isn’t getting results, think about what’s going on, how the dog is reacting, and what you can do to change it. Just like when you’re talking with someone who isn’t understanding what you’re saying, find a different way to express it. There are lots of ways to do almost anything. The right one is the one that works.

Teach your dog “Poop” on command

Nobody relishes standing out in the rain waiting for their dog’s to eliminate. You can make life easier for both of you when you teach your dog “Poop” on command.

There’s an old joke that an alien visiting our planet for the first time would be convinced that dogs are the species in control because their minions follow them around, pick up their poop, and carry it around.

But every responsible dog owner has the obligation to clean up after their dogs, regardless of what aliens think of us. But it would make life better if our dogs would eliminate when and where we want, rather than taking forever to find the perfect spot.

You must be willing

Teach your dog “Poop” on command

To achieve the “poop on command” goal, you have to be willing to commit. You must go out with your dog every single time, you must have treats with you, and you must be clear and consistent. 

Even though we have a fenced yard, we go out with our dogs every single time. Even if it’s raining, sleeting, or three in the morning.

There are lots of reasons we do:

When we had a nasty-dog neighbor, we could avoid fence fighting.
We can stop our dogs from eating various unknown, nasty things in the yard.
We get first dibs on the bread slices the squirrel drops in our yard (yes, we do have foolish neighbors).
It lets us know if one of the dogs has stomach issues, before they mess the house.
We know which dog has the tummy trouble.

Is it convenient? Not particularly. Especially with multiple dogs, we think it’s wise.

Getting cooperation

Everybody poops. That’s a given, as well as a beloved children’s book. Learning your dog’s schedule makes for easier housebreaking and elimination training.

When you know your dog has to go, head out with them. If there’s a particular place you want them to go, put them on collar/harness and leash and head directly to that spot and wait. If your dog is one that wanders around before getting down to business, take a couple laps around the yard with them and go back to the chosen spot.

Then it’s a waiting game. For the kabillionth time, we’ll repeat the doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But waiting is the best thing you can do.

When they hit the mark, praise and reward. Call it whatever phrase you choose to use. We use “go poop” because we got over being embarrassed in public long ago. A friend of ours uses “Hit it!” We assume she’ll never be part of a band.

Every single time

If you want your dog to learn to poop on command, you have to praise, phrase (good poop!), and reward every single time. 

We’re often asked when praise and treats can be phased out. The answer is always never. When you’re willing to do your job without pay, that’s when you can phase out your dog’s.