2 Minute Trainer

Dog Training Game – Trade Ya

The “Trade Ya!” dog training game works in lots of different scenarios:

Fifi doesn’t like to play with toys. “Trade Ya!” to teach her.
Phydeaux’s biting at your pants while you walk down the hall? “Trade Ya!” for a tug toy.
Spot’s grabbing crumpled paper from the wastebasket? “Trade Ya!” for a tossed ball.
Rover’s munching on anything they shouldn’t? “Trade Ya!” for a yummier treat.

Dogs are great shoppers. They know what they like and what’s not very interesting. The most vivid example we’ve seen is the annual video from the Dogs Trust Ireland. For the holidays, the shelter has a “Santa Paws” day where each dog gets to choose from a roomful of toys. The vast majority of the dogs pick one and stick with it. Not much indecision there. Dogs know what they like.

Good, better, best

And just like people, dogs have a rating system for their preferences. There’s stuff that’s okay. Other stuff that’s good. The next tier is better. And, at the apex is the stuff they’ll run through fire to get.

All of these levels have a place in your dog’s life. To play “Trade Ya!,” you need to know your dog’s rankings for toys. As every dog owner knows, the toys you spent the most money on and thought your dog would adore are probably at the bottom of the list. Now you’ll finally get your money’s worth of fun.

To teach your dog “Trade Ya!,” pick three toys, one each representing good, better, and best. Also have your dog’s absolute favorite treat. Play this game somewhere that’s dog-toy-free. Nothing else around to attract your dog’s focus.

Play with me!

Start with the least-favorite of the three toys. Put the other two someplace you can reach them, but the dog can’t. Slap that toy on the floor and slowly wave it back and forth to get your dog to play tug with you.

Note: be sure you tug side-to-side. Never tug up-and-down to avoid injury to your dog’s neck.

If your dog doesn’t play tug, or isn’t showing any interest, lightly contact your dog’s paws with the toy as you move it across the floor in front of them. Be really annoying with it. Don’t take “no” for an answer. Eventually, your dog will succumb and get hold of the toy.

As soon as the dog grabs the first toy, whip out the second one, slap it on the floor, wiggle it back and forth and say “Trade Ya!” Since this second toy is more interesting to the dog than the first, the dog should readily drop it and grab the new toy you’re offering. (Remember your dog’s reward hierarchy!)

Rinse & repeat

When the dog’s tugging the middle-of-the-road toy, pull out the best toy, slap it on the ground, say “Trade Ya!” Your dog should grab onto the favorite toy and drop the other. Play tug for a moment. Let your dog “win” the game sometimes.

Tug shouldn’t be a duration game. After a few tugs, say something like “That’s all!” and end it. If your dog won’t give up the “best” toy, reach for the high-value treat you brought and once again, say “Trade Ya!”

Lesson of the game

It may take a few sessions for your dog to understand that they’re trading up with “Trade Ya!” In time, they will readily drop what they have to choose the trade option.

Always be sure that the next-level toy or treat is handy before you say “Trade Ya!” If you don’t have something “better,” you’d be lying to your dog. That would poison the game and you might have to start over from the beginning.

Whenever you say “Trade Ya!” your dog will come to expect that they’re getting something even better than whatever it is they have. That applies to anything your dog may have that you’d rather they didn’t. Playing tug is more fun for the dog than biting your pants leg. The best treat is better than chewing on grass. Take advantage of your dog’s pro shopping ability.

Hardest skills for dogs

The hardest skills for dogs are the ones that aren’t natural. Of course the same is true for humans. People naturally want to help their dogs succeed, so patience/waiting is the hardest part of dog training. For dogs, who want to be with their people, the most difficult skills are staying and going.

That sounds contradictory, but it’s not. Both the “Stay!” and the “Go out!” usually involve separation between you and your dog. If you have a good training relationship with your dog, they want to be near you. Always. The closer the better.

Too much of a good thing

You might think that creating a strong bond might pave the way for unwanted behaviors like separation anxiety. Instead, it actually helps reduce the issue. Dogs with strong training-game experience tend to be more confident and able to deal with everyday anxieties more easily. They’ve been taught how to make good decisions and to persevere through stress.

It’s one thing for the dog to deal with your routine absences. You probably have a familiar ritual you follow every morning as you leave. It’s probably been choreographed down to a science, with singing out “Be good!” the last thing as you sail out the door.

While dogs don’t know where you’re going or what you’ll be doing there, they never did and probably never will. You don’t miss what you’ve never known. And they don’t have an option. However, a command to “Stay!” requires that the dog actively work against their own instinct to accompany you wherever you go.

“Go out!” is just as difficult, if not more so. At least with the “Stay!” your dog is able to watch you walk away. They may not like it, but they can see what you’re up to and know they can reach you quickly if you suddenly suffer an attack of dog withdrawal. With the “Go Out!” your dog has to choose to go away from you. They can’t see you as they move away.

Fetch doesn’t count

But wait, you say! My dog runs away from me all the time when we’re playing “Fetch!” In that case, your dog isn’t actually “Going Out!” What they are doing is chasing an object in motion. Just as you’d expect any predator to do.

Both the “Stay!” and the “Go Out!” have three aspects to work on individually.

Duration – Gradually increase the amount of time the dog is on their own without rewards.This is the first thing to work on with the “Stay!” and the last thing to work on with the “Go Out!”
Distance – The first thing to work on for “Go Out!” Gradually increase the distance you put your Target for the dog. For the “Stay!,” randomize the number of steps you take away from your dog and return to the dog to reward. Remember to always reward the dog to the front – don’t make them turn to reach the reward or you’ll pull them out of position.
Distraction – Introduce all kinds of distractions. In the “Go Out!” practice with distractions both when the dog is in motion moving away from you and when the dog reaches the Target and is supposed to stay there. For the “Stay!,” use all kinds of distractions at varying distances from the dog. Even the hardest skills for dogs can be taught with patience and consistency. And distractions.

About distractions

A distraction can be anything that’s different. It can be sounds, like someone banging pots in the next room. It can be something in motion, like a tennis ball rolling across the training area. It can be a combination of both, like a sound-and-motion toy in the room.

The most difficult distraction we’ve ever dealt with was from our very first dog training teacher. For the “graduation” class, he brought freshly-made french fries and spread them around the floor, expecting us and our dogs to navigate across the room through the delicious smells. Every dog/handler team did it. You can, too. Tailor the level of distraction to your dog’s interest. Start with things they don’t care much about and increase the difficulty as their skills improve.

Distance is your friend

Your dog loves being near you. That’s a wonderful thing. But there are times when a little distance is your friend.

Sometimes, especially if you have a fearful dog, you use distance to help your dog adjust. Slow introductions to new places, things, and people help timid dogs cope.

In another scenario, you may want to build distance between you and your dog, to encourage your dog to “work” away from you.

Go there, do that

Many dog sports require your dog to leave you to perform some task. Quite a while ago, Hope took her Brussels Griffon Roc to a tracking seminar. They flunked spectacularly. Roc wouldn’t move more than an arm’s length away from Hope, let alone go ten or fifteen feet out to follow a scent.

In Obedience and Rally there are exercises where you send your dog away – the Directed Jumping in Obedience and the Go To Cone in Rally. Training your dog to listen, even if you’re not right next to them, is helpful.

Staying on course

The most consistent example is probably in Agility. No one, regardless of age or athleticism, can run as fast as their dog. Yet in agility, you run with your dog, directing their path around the course. Distance handling is the answer.

In the most extreme examples, there are handlers who are able to pick a spot somewhere on the course, and direct their speedy dogs faultlessly around. They use body language and vocal commands to steer their dog’s path. It’s impressive to watch, difficult to get right, and takes time to achieve.

Getting on track

French Bulldog touching a target to illustrate distance is your friend.

One of our Rally students would really like to do agility with his dog. But he’s hampered by his physical limitations. He can’t run, due to issues with his spine and hips. He can, however, teach his dog to work away from him.

The first step in distance handling is Target Training. When your dog loves the Target game, you can place the target anywhere. It’s an easy way to teach dogs how to go over jumps, and hit the required contact area on agility obstacles.

Delayed gratification

Dogs transfer the perceived value of the reward to the object and the game. If your dog has been rewarded frequently for touching a target, the target itself becomes a reward. Getting to play the target game is valuable by itself.

That doesn’t mean you eliminate the reward. It means that you can delay it. After sending your dog to the target you can move to place the reward on the target. Or you can call your dog back to you and reward. Either way, the value of the target remains high.

Keep it local

For every time you send your dog away, reinforce working close, too. The last thing you want to do is convince your dog that you’re not part of the fun. You always want to be one of the components of any training game. All wonderful things in your dog’s life should involve you.

When your dog learns to work with you, even from a distance, it opens more options for your team in dog sports. Build the distance gradually, and your partnership will grow exponentially.

Muzzles are good management

What do you think when you see a person walking around with a muzzled dog? Are you wary? Do you grab your dog and cross the street? Thinking needs to change. In fact, muzzles are good management.

Sadly, the stigma attached to using a muzzle for your dog prevents many people from using one of the least intrusive, most useful dog management tools ever. Using a muzzle prevents your dog from starting any trouble and insures they won’t contribute to any they find.

Everyday wear

Take the case of a dog from our “Impulse Control” class. He’s a young dog, a medium-sized terrier. Let’s call him Sam. Sam is the first dog of a very nice young couple, and he does great in their apartment. He does okay on walks. He’s nipped two people in the elevator. That’s a problem. And a pretty big one.

Sam isn’t a mean dog. He’s a young, scared dog who doesn’t get the distance he needs to feel safe when he’s in an elevator. The absolute cardinal rule for fear-aggressive dogs is “distance is your friend.” The fear reaches a boiling point when the dog is trapped and unable to move away.

Sam’s people have to take the elevator. Sometimes they’re not going to be able to wait for an empty car, or be able to ask other people not to get in. Everybody’s got places to go and schedules to keep. What they can do, to make sure that everyone, including Sam, is safe.

Muzzle your dog

We started muzzle-training the dogs in impulse control class. Every dog should be accustomed to a muzzle – you never know what circumstances may require it. If your dog is injured, they will also be frightened. And they might lash out at people who are trying to help. Emergency vets and technicians routinely muzzle dogs – you can’t know how much pain a dog is in, or how it will react. Most dog owners, fortunately, don’t know how their dogs would react to an injury. Muzzles are good management – even the calmest, most well-behaved dog might react poorly to a perceived threat – especially if the dog is in pain. Plus, a muzzle means that your dog won’t pick up strange objects in the backyard.

The first step in muzzle-training is like any other game. Get the dog familiar with the object and reward interaction with the thing. Looking at it, sniffing it, pawing at it, taking it in their mouth – all are steps in familiarization. Reward each interaction. Ideally, put your hand through the muzzle to reward your dog, so the muzzle becomes part of the interaction.

Over the course of a few 2-Minute sessions, accustom the dog to the muzzle. Depending on the kind of muzzle, you can put your hand through while giving your dog treats. Start asking your dog to stick his nose/muzzle in the muzzle. If you don’t have one, or if the dog needs time to get used to the muzzle, use a plastic glass or cone and ask your dog to stick their nose in. Reward in or by the thing to build value in the interaction.

If your dog is skittish, don’t even try putting the muzzle on until your dog has made friends with it. We want dogs to believe that muzzles are no big deal. Because they’re not. Or at least they shouldn’t be. Muzzle-training your dog means you care about everybody’s safety in any situation. It’s “what if” training that we hope your dog will never need.

Not always everywhere

In Impulse Control class, we had no muzzles, so we used plastic cones to simulate something for the dogs to stick their faces into. Once they figured out that treats were involved, they were shoving their noses in as far as they could go.

Sam’s parents have the task of finding a muzzle that works for them and their dog. (For a description of various types of muzzles, see “Every dog needs a muzzle.”) They asked if they had to use it all the time. The answer is yes. And no. Since Sam’s issues are in enclosed spaces, he needs to wear it in the apartment building and elevator. Once they get outside, it can come off. They can achieve the distance from other people/dogs/objects that Sam finds scary.

The elevator trip back home also requires the muzzle back on. And, if friendly neighbors are sharing the ride, by all means ask them to give Sam treats.

Defy dog logic

We’ve had people who say “I’m not giving a dog treats for growling at me!” That’s a complete misinterpretation of what’s going on. You’re not rewarding the growling, or reactive behavior. Instead, you’re proving to the dog that you’re not frightening and you’re a nice person. All people are nice.

That’s the message dogs should get from all strangers. Especially dogs who are somewhat fearful. The objective is to reassure them that you’ll keep them safe. They have nothing to fear. Not even fear itself. And muzzles are good management.

Make it easy on your dog. Expect perfection.

It’s not being mean to expect perfection from your dog. It makes it easy for your dog to understand exacly what you want.

We have a friend with both French Bulldogs and Border Collies. Our friend makes us absolutely crazy because she holds the different breeds to different criteria in training. She expects the Border Collies to be perfect. The Frenchies can get away with “meh” performances. So that’s what she gets from them.

Every dog is capable of great things in whatever training you choose. Whether it’s reaching elite dog sport performance or becoming the perfect couch cuddler, it’s up to you. But you’ll do your dog a huge favor if you expect perfection.

“Good enough” isn’t

Have you ever asked your dog to “Sit!” and thought “eh, good enough” when the dog lies down? If so, you just confused your dog. The dog was showing you they don’t understand the word. Instead of clarifying it, you fed the confusion.

Unlike people, dogs don’t have a sliding scale or understand there’s an acceptable range. Dogs understand “yes” and “no.” “Maybe” is an alien concept. That’s why dogs often behave better for the “strictest” person in the family, rather than the one who’s “nice” to them. They understand what the “strict” person expects of them. Niceness is confusing.

That doesn’t mean you yell at your dog or order them around all the time. It means that you teach them what you want from them. If it truly doesn’t matter to you if your dog sits or lies down, reward whatever you get. If you actually want them to “Sit!” teach them what it means. Accept and reward only an actual sit position. If the dog lies down, wait and look at their butt. Don’t repeat the command. Just wait. As soon as they rise into a “Sit!” reward.

Keep it simple

A key to understanding dogs is recognizing that they love patterns and routines. That’s why people who say “Sit” three times (many do) when they’re teaching their dogs will always have to say “Sit” three times to get their dogs to do it.

Clarity and precision are largely disregarded and underrated. With people, you can easily clear misunderstandings with more words. You don’t have that option with dogs. While they can understand hundreds of words, they’ll only know one meaning for each one. And you’re the one who decides what each word means for your dog.

If you think you’ve confused your dog about something, it’s often easier to start over with a new word than fix the mistake. You may never know why a particular word has become “poison” to your dog. Fran had that happen with Tango. He stopped understanding his release word, which was “Go!” He didn’t.

He couldn’t tell us why. Fran could only deal with what was true. So she started over again with a new release word, “Action!” It’s still working just fine.

Dog Training Game: Paws and Boots

All dogs know the stuff that’s important. That doesn’t mean all dogs know the same stuff. What I think is important to teach my dog may be nothing at all like the stuff your dog knows. That’s okay. Every dog is trained to their owners’ level of comfort. If it matters to you, you’ll teach your dog. We think the dog training game Paws and Boots belongs in everyone’s repertoire.

If you don’t care, that’s fine. One of our current training students doesn’t mind that her dog jumps up on people. There’s absolutely no reason to train this dog not to do it. If you don’t mind, it doesn’t matter.

There is one exception. Every dog owner should care about their dog’s physical well-being, fitness, and body awareness. Like all training games, it’s fast and fun. This one also can make a difference in your dog’s life, extending their comfort and mobility even into their senior years.

Building the foundation

Dogs are a lot like people. When they’re young, strong, and healthy some take advantage of their physical prowess and build healthy habits that last a lifetime. Others are couch potatoes by nature and consider most movement optional and exercise a dirty word.

Whatever you choose for yourself, you should claim a place in the “Healthy Habits” camp for your dog. Muscles and joints are “use it or lose it” features. Making a game of exercise now sets them up for an active and thriving old-dog life.

Play Paws and Boots

Most dogs know they control their front legs and paws. Some use their front paws for much more than just walking. They’ll paw at you for attention, use their front paws to move stuff, even rearrange their bedding with front paws. The vast majority of dogs don’t know they also have back paws. Most have no idea they control their “boots,” too.

To play “Paws and Boots” you need something low, 4 to 6 inches, that your dog can step up on. An inflatable balance disc, a large rubber feed bowl, a short stool, even a cushion will do.

The first step is the easier one. Get your dog to put their front feet on the stool (or whatever you’re using). Like all training games, the dogs learn better if it’s their idea, so be patient. Stare at the stool and reward any interaction with it. If the dog looks at it, reward. The next step may be sniffing it, or pawing it. Reward about three or four times for each level of interaction, then wait for more. Get really enthusiastic with your praise when your dog uses their paws.

When the dog is putting two front feet on the stool, start naming it. Most people say something like “Paws Up!”

Around you go

Once your dog has two feet up on the stool, put pressure on them by moving into their space, even nudging their side with your leg. This is one of the few times we’ll advise holding a treat with the hand further from the dog. With both of you facing the stool, if the dog is on your right side, hold the treat in your left hand, with your arm across your body, close to the dog. As the dog curls their neck toward your treat hand, they’ll move their back legs away from you. Continue all the way around the stool, both directions.

It may take a few sessions to get all the way around. Your dog doesn’t understand what you want yet and may keep dropping down to the floor. Try again, praising every time the dog puts front feet on the stool.

Boots are harder

It’s more difficult to teach dogs their back feet, or “Boots” are under their control. The easiest way to start the Boots portion is to have your dog walk across the stool and stop them with boots up. If they come off the object, just try again, repeatedly walking them over and getting them to stop with boots up. Be sure to repeat the phrase “Boots Up!” when they’re in the correct position so they understand that’s the objective.

When they understand “Boots Up!” it’s time to move them around the stool. For this portion of the game, stand facing your dog and take small steps to either side to encourage them to move their feet. Again, it may take a while for the dog to learn what “Boots Up!” means. Be patient. It’s an exercise for a lifetime, not a deadline.

What’s this game good for?

There’s a puppy owner in Hope’s class who asks this question at the start of every single training game. Class has just begun, so we’re still on the fundamentals. Every game, at this point, has real-world application and importance. When we get farther along in the session, occasionally there will be a game that’s just for fun. That’s valid, too. Especially if it helps you see how smart and creative your dog is. And how much they enjoy playing training games with you.

Pick and choose carefully

There are a ton of training games and you should set priorities. The issues you have with your own dog are the ones you should emphasize in your training. But that doesn’t mean ignoring all the others. Change is the one constant in life. The game you may not need today may be vital in the future

One of our obedience club members pulled Hope aside last week to discuss an issue that’s recently cropped up with her dog. The dog has been through our Beginner classes and is now in Rally class. They’re at a level to compete, but the person isn’t quite ready to take that step yet.

She told Hope that her dog has recently started playing “Keep Away” when she’s getting ready for a walk before she leaves for work. The dog sees her reaching for the harness and leash and immediately gets the zoomies and plays her version of “Catch Me If You Can.”

The dog is just being naughty. She doesn’t mind the harness. She loves going on walks. But she knows that the walk is the last thing before her mom leaves for work, so she’s playing and delaying. Dogs are pretty smart that way.

That was then, this is now

Hope listened and said “That’s an easy one. Just go back and play the Collar Grab Game for a few days. She’ll be back with the program in no time.”

Her reply: “We never practiced that. I didn’t need it then.”

She’s probably right. Back when her dog lacked confidence and was afraid of the world, the dog saw her as her one safe port in the storm. She’d come whenever called. Things have changed. The dog is now happy, confident, and knows lots of stuff. But she doesn’t know the fundamental Collar Grab game because she never learned it.

That’s not as big a problem as you might think. When they were first learning dog training games, the dog knew almost nothing except how to bark and hide behind her mom. Now she knows how training games work. Games are always a chance to have fun together. And get treats. This dog is all about the treats.

There’s a game for that

Whatever your dog’s behavior issue might be, there’s a training game for that. It’s never too late to teach them. And it’s certainly never too late for them to learn. So, go back through your training notes and ask yourself, “What’s this game good for?” and see if any apply to your current situation.

When a new dog enters your life it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the mountain of things the dog needs to know. The mountain is even steeper if you’ve had the dog for a while and simply chosen to manage the things that are problematic. It’s easier to close the bathroom door than teach a dog not to rummage in wastebaskets.

That’s fine! You should always solve real problems before dealing with the little things. But when your dog has learned the basics and knows their role in the household and family, it’s time to play a little catch up.

Keep a pending file

We always say what issues games are designed to fix and explain why they’re useful. If it’s not something you currently need, but you recognize the value, just make a mental note that there’s help available.

You can always revisit training games, pick up new ones, and replay favorites, especially if when you ask “What’s this game good for?” you find one that fits. Your dog will always be up for another game, whether it’s a life lesson or something just for fun. Playing training games is an ongoing investment in your dog, keeping them happy, engaged, and well-behaved.

Movement Puzzle #2: Work the Arc

The object is to teach your dog to think

Multi-tasking is a skill that can be developed in dogs as well as people. We’re not talking about a DaVinci-esque ability to write different things with each hand simultaneously. We’re not even talking about the physical coordination needed to walk and chew gum. Instead, we’re focusing on teaching your dog to think even when over-the-top excited. There’s no point in telling your dog to calm down when they’re excited. It’s like teaching a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. Instead, give your dog the skills to listen and decide, even in chaotic, noisy, and distracting environments.

Different levels

To set up the Arc movement puzzle, a fun derivation of Vito’s Game, gather some different-height, sturdy stools, boxes, benches, etc. big enough for your dog to stand on and able to support your dog’s weight. You’ll also need a couple flat items to start each side of the Arc. Don’t worry about collecting all of it before you get started. You’ll add on over time.

For the first session, you’ll need one low step and two flat mats. Place the step in the center and a mat to either side. You’ll also need two bowls to drop treats into and some treats. You can set up wherever you have enough room for your dog to move. This is one of the games you can play outside, weather permitting.

The objective of the puzzle, for your dog, is to move from one side to the other, stepping on each of the obstacles in the Arc each way. For the first session it’s just the three items on the curve of the Arc.

Get started

Since this is a puzzle for your dog to solve, start by setting your dog up on the small step. You’ll add the two mats later. Go stand between the two bowls. Drop a treat in one of the bowls and let your dog get it. Then look at the step. If your dog returns to the step, look at the other bowl. Just look. Don’t drop a treat in until your dog starts moving toward it.

Don’t say anything. Don’t tell your dog where to go. Remember, the object is to teach your dog to think. If you give your dog the answer, it’s not a dog puzzle, it’s you controlling your dog. You’re hinting at the answer by where you look: bowl, step, opposite bowl. That subtle cue is all your dog gets. The rest they solve on their own.

It may take a while for your dog to get the hint and figure out what you want. They may bark, scratch, fuss, etc. Ignore it. Stick with the puzzle cues. Your dog will, in time, go from bowl to step to other bowl and back again. Every time they get near the bowl, drop a treat in.

Next step

When your dog has figured out the sequence, add the two flat mats on either side of the step. The dog must step on all three objects to get the treats. Again, moving from side to side.

This puzzle keeps your dog moving and thinking at the same time. As they conquer each step, add more. Either add steps of different levels to either side, or move yourself and your bowls further away, or add tall objects to the ends of the arc for the dog to go around.

The possibilities for this game are limitless. You can add objects to circle, to crawl under, to jump over, etc. When you teach your dog to think, and as they learn the rhythm of the movement puzzle, they’ll look forward to new challenges.

Back and forth

It’s a simple concept, move back and forth to get the treats. It’s also a puzzle that’s as challenging as you choose to make it.

You won’t know where your dog’s limits are if you never test them. You could discover that there are no barriers to your dog’s possibilities. Find out. Just for the fun of it.

Movement Puzzle #1 – Vito’s Game

What’s your absolute favorite thing about doing puzzles? It’s figuring them out for yourself. It’s not as much fun if somebody helps you, or gives you a hint.

Your dog is going to love learning movement puzzles. They’ll look forward to playing every time. Your dog will love seeing what new twists you add to their puzzles.

But it’s going to be hard on you. Probably more difficult than any other training game you’ve played with your dog. Because you’re not allowed to help.

Simple setup

There are basically two main variations of the Movement Puzzle. This week we’ll introduce the more static version. You get to sit for this one.

This thinking game / movement puzzle is called “Vito’s Game.” We were introduced to it in a video by the great dog trainer Susan Garrett of “Say Yes!” Dog training.

You need two bowls for treats, lots of treats, and an obstacle for your dog to go around. It can be anything. We generally use a five-gallon bucket or a wastebasket.

Sit on the floor with your legs crossed. Have one empty bowl at each side, near your hips. Hold the treats between your legs.

Start playing side to side

Get your dog’s attention and gently toss a treat off to your right. Then toss one to your left. This will implant the idea of going side to side in your dog’s mind. Do it a couple more times, alternating sides, and make your toss a little closer each time. For the last introductory part, drop a treat in one of the bowls at your side. Then, after your dog’s gotten that treat, drop one in the bowl on the other side.

Now’s the time to start using the bucket. Put it right up against your shins so your dog has to go around it to get to your other side. Now wait. (It’s hard, but you’ve got this.)

If your dog goes right to one of the bowls, drop a treat in it. Wait for them to go around the bucket to the other side. You can look at the empty bowl, but you can’t say anything, or tap the bowl, or give any other cue. It’s up to your dog to go around and check the other bowl. As soon as they do, drop a treat in.

When your dog is fairly reliably going side-to-side to get the treats from the bowls by your sides, start gradually moving the bucket away from you. Your dog still has to circle around the bucket, side to side, to get the treats.

Booker playing Movement Puzzle Vito's Game

Booker got it right - a treat goes in the bowl.

If your dog takes a shortcut and tries to get to the other side by taking a path between you and the bucket, don’t say anything. Just move the bucket closer and start again.

Think about it

Vito’s Game is a puzzle your dog has to solve. It’s a thinking game, something most people don’t normally expect, or require from their dogs. But good training encourages dogs to make good decisions. The dog has to figure out what they have to do to get the treats.

You may have to start from scratch the first few times you play Vito’s game. That’s okay. Your dog will get it. As long as you do your part.

Your job is to deliver treats to the bowls. That’s it. For the game to be effective, you can’t cheat. No hints, no cues, no talking, no tapping treats on the bowls, no telling your dog what to do. Let your dog find the joy in solving the puzzle.

Training Game: Hold it!

Teaching your dog to “Hold it!” is more useful than you’d think.

It’s adorable. We know someone whose dog holds a white board, so she can write any message or greeting and have a ready-made perfect social media post.

It’s helpful and adorable. Someone else we know taught her competition obedience dog to hold and carry his gear bag. The best part was the dog wasn’t a Golden Retriever or a Border Collie. He was a toy dog – a little Brussels Griffon.

It’s game-changing, helpful, and adorable. Teaching your dog to hold something in high-traffic areas can keep them busy and out of trouble. Even if you have an exuberant, excitable dog.

Why it’s magical

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque makes lots of funny sounds. Most Frenchies do. Other dogs have, on occasion, reacted poorly to him. It got to the point where he was always on the lookout for other dogs, ready to bark and behave rather rudely.

Torque also loves toys. Rubber balls with holes in them are his favorite. So Hope taught him to “hold” his toy. Now he confidently walks around anywhere, from the local neighborhood to a dog sport competition, showing everyone his little pink ball. Everyone thinks it’s adorable, not camouflage for potential misbehavior.

If your dog is somewhat leash-reactive, or reacts to other dogs, people, bicycles, strollers, etc. on walks, you can solve your problem by teaching your dog to “Hold!” a favorite toy. Instead of leaving the impression that your dog’s a jerk, you’ll inspire positive reactions and smiles. Make sure the toy’s a cute one, and as charming as possible. Like Torque and his little pink ball.

Teaching “Hold it!”

Most dogs want to hang onto their favorite stuff. If that’s the case for your dog, your training challenge will be sustaining the “Hold!” then getting your dog to “Drop it!” on command. Of course, ultimately your dog will have to “Drop it” when you tell them to. That’s another game.

If your dog naturally holds things, the first step is to make sure the dog will “Hold!” while wearing a collar and leash. If they’re used to playing naked, this may be more of an adjustment than you’d think. Just practice while the dog is “dressed,” putting light tugging pressure on the toy. If your dog drops the toy, just look at it and say something like “What happened? You dropped it!” Let the dog think picking it up is their idea. It is your dog’s job to keep track of their own toy.

Once the dog is securely holding the toy, pick up the leash and add motion. Again, if the dog drops the toy, let them pick it up. Just look at the toy and encourage your dog to get it. If you start picking up the toy when the dog drops it, they’ll rely on you to keep doing it. If they know mom (or dad) will get it, they’ll feel free to drop the toy to yell at that dog across the street. It’s your dog’s job to hold the toy and retrieve it if it’s dropped.

Gradually add more motion as your dog becomes good at “Hold!” Then practice everywhere. Remember that it’s your dog’s job to take care of their toy, but be sure you know where it is and take charge if necessary.

Not a possessive type

If your dog readily drops whatever they pick up, your challenge is more complex. You have to build value in the “Hold!”

Start with a favorite toy. If your dog doesn’t have one, you choose one that’s small enough for your dog to hold comfortably, and that has some part you can grab. If your dog will not pick up a toy, get down on the floor and slowly swish the toy back and forth in front of your dog, lightly brushing their forelegs with it. Most dogs find this both intriguing and annoying, and they’ll eventually succumb to the temptation to grab it.

Since your goal is the “Hold!,” don’t start a vigorous game of “Tug!” when your dog grabs the toy. Instead, keep up a steady pressure. This will trigger the dog’s natural tendency to pull. Since you’re keeping the game rather gentle, the dog shouldn’t go into head-shaking, kill-the-toy tugging. Get your dog used to moving around while playing gentle tug with you.

If your dog drops the toy and leaves you holding it, you drop it, too. Then stare at it and encourage your dog to “get it!” If they don’t, or seem confused, you can toss the toy a short way away and “race” your dog to the toy. Let them win! Then you can start the tugging pressure again.

Be patient

Like all behaviors, every dog picks up on “Hold!” at their own pace. Be patient and persistent. If you have a dog whose leash manners could use improvement, giving them something to “Hold!” is the fastest way to achieve better leash behavior.