2 Minute Trainer

Recognize stress in your dog

Do you know when your dog feels anxious? Do you recognize stress in your dog? If you recognize stress in your dog, you can deal with it.

Not the same as us

There are obvious signs your dog is stressed; panting, leaving sweaty paw prints, shaking. But did you know that lip-licking and yawning are also signs of stress in dogs?

In terms of behavior, dogs show stress in one of two ways. Either they “stress high” or “stress low.” How your dog manifests stress depends on his personality.

High stressers

Dogs who get the "zoomies" may be exhibiting stress! These dogs "stress high." By recognizing stress in your dog, you can form a plan to deal with it.

Dogs who “stress high” get super-excited, even being described as out of control. These are the dogs who will get the “zoomies” and act out. They’re not sure what’s going on, and they know they can’t control it, so they have to move to deal with it.

It may seem odd, but dogs who stress high are actually easier to train and work with. The dog is still doing something – he just needs a focal point to expend the energy. When we compete in dog sports like agility, we actually are looking for a dog in “high arousal” who can still pay attention and work with us. It’s fun and fast – just like all the best training can be.

Low stressers

“Low stressers” are dogs who check out. These dogs seem to just shut down when the going gets stressful. These dogs are more difficult to engage and some of their stress may come from fear. Hope’s Dax was a classic low stresser – when things got too stressful for her during agility competition she would simply disengage and go off into a corner. Sometimes Hope was able to get her back in the game by inviting her to do her favorite obstacles. Familiarity is our friend with dogs who stress low.

What you can do

Have a game plan for dealing with stress when it arises.

When you recognize that your dog is stressed, having a plan will help both of you. If you have a little routine, or trick behavior, that your dog loves, use it. Hope’s Torque adores the “tap” trick where he touches her foot (or leg) alternately with his two front paws. It’s a game they can play anywhere – including when they’re waiting to have a turn at training class, or even waiting to go into a competition ring. Try to keep it something simple like the “tap” so you don’t need any special equipment or props.

If your dog gets stressed walking through a crowded area, but loves toys, why not teach him to hold his toy while you negotiate through the situation? It changes other’s perception as well. Instead of seeing the hyper-alert dog ready to react, people will see the cute dog showing off his toy. A big, muscular dog carrying a little pink toy is non-threatening and adorable.

Familiarity reduces stress

We just talked to a customer whose dog was not only stressed, but hyper about getting her nails trimmed. And the owner did exactly the right thing. She arranged with the groomer to bring the dog over for “visits.” For a month, she took the dog to “visit” the groomer, who did nothing at first but give the dog treats and pets. Then they progressed to touching the dogs paws. Then they tried trimming a single nail. Now the dog is fine and looks forward to her “mani/pedi” appointments.

Once dogs understand the rules and what’s expected of them, their stress level decreases. Just as ours does. When we know what we’re in for, we can cope with anything more easily. If holds true for reducing stress in dogs, too.

Don’t Outsource Dog Training

Have you considered a “doggy boot camp?” Don’t do it. Don’t outsource dog training. Most people hear about “boot camp” dog training and love the idea. Who wouldn’t? You send your dog away for a week or two and, when it comes back, it’s a model of canine good behavior. The problem is that your dog doesn’t behave for you. He behaves for his trainer. Be the trainer!

We had a conversation this week with one of our students. It was about outsourcing dog training, but we didn’t realize it at the time. Her question was “what was the most difficult breed of dog you’ve ever trained?”

Brussels Griffons are challenging to train…

Tango is a Brussels Griffon - the breed is notoriously challenging to train!

Thinking about it, Hope answered that the Brussels Griffons were the most challenging because they seem to ignore you entirely for hundreds of repetitions. Then, all of a sudden, they “get it” and have it forever.

There was silence on the other end of the phone for a moment. Then it occurred to us that she wasn’t asking which of our dogs was most difficult to train, but of our students’ and clients’ dogs. Ooops.

We are people trainers!

Most people don’t realize that trainers like us don’t train other people’s dogs. We teach the people how to train their dogs. Technically, we suppose, that makes us people trainers, not dog trainers. We don’t outsource training.

The easiest explanation we have is that dogs listen to the person who teaches them. If you send your dog away to “boot camp” and someone else actually trains your dog, your dog will be absolutely obedient to that person. But unless you’re planning to adopt/marry/cohabit with that person, the training will deteriorate over time. You may have a session or two with the trainer and learn the words and motions that your dog’s been taught to respond to, but, if you’re like most people, it’ll slacken over time.

It’s DIY!

And you’re missing all the fun! We think it’s just so sad that “training” and “playing” aren’t the same for most people. Our dogs adore our training games – and we love playing the games with our dogs. We wouldn’t let anyone steal that joy from us – the little wiggle celebrations our dogs have when they know they’ve done it right. Their willingness to “try it again” when it wasn’t so good.

Training games are a journey you take with your dog. You both learn and grow and play. You’ll become a better communicator – with people as well as with dogs. You’ll become more adept at switching gears – especially as you recognize when you’re “losing your audience.”

Playing training games with our own dogs has made us better teachers, students, listeners, and speakers. Dogs are wonderful playmates for growth. Don’t let anyone take that experience away from you.

If it’s not working – change it

A saying attributed to Albert Einstein applies to dog training! Rather than the insanity of doing the same thing and not get results, change your method of dog training to get results.

Change is good!

You know the old saw:

“If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you always got.”

Or, attributed to Albert Einstein, “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.”

Dealing with your dog is no different. If something you’re doing isn’t working, it’s time to change it.

Each dog presents his or her own challenge in training

Every dog is different, presenting their own joys and challenges. When you have a multiple dog household, it’s even more important to recognize each dog as an individual and adapt to their specific personalities.

Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, is five years old. He’s an exuberant dog who loves training, treats, playing with toys, cuddling, and is obsessed with barking at the dogs in neighboring yards. In a densely-populated urban area, barking at the neighbors isn’t acceptable behavior.

It also doesn’t help when one of those neighboring dogs has a history of charging the fence – bashing into it while barking ferociously. Those neighbors, through the use of unknown methods, get Chloe to return to them after that initial charge, and then retreat into their house. Which leaves us to deal with the fired-up, obsessed Frenchie, plastered nose-to-fence looking for his nemesis.

Dogs do what rewards them

Dogs always do what’s most rewarding to them. If they enjoy something, they’ll repeat it. The rush of adrenaline Torque gets from the excitement of the neighbor-dog challenge is a tough one to beat. Torque has to choose us, and what we’re doing, over the thrill of the chase.

It’s an ongoing process. Our initial reaction to the situation was based in our decades of other kinds of training. We tried to manage the situation by putting Torque on leash for every foray into our own yard. Needless to say, that got tiresome and we got lazy.

We got smarter in our dog training methods

We’ve finally wised up and changed our training method. Torque absolutely adores training sessions and is highly motivated to “do stuff” with us. Instead of yelling, or pulling on him, or shouting “leave it,” we go into training mode. You can’t train a dog that isn’t paying attention, so we get into his line of sight, quietly saying his name. Just like beginner attention training, any glance at us gets a treat. Any cessation of barking gets a treat. Coming toward us, even a single step, is rewarded.

We changed it and we’re getting there

And it’s paying off. While we haven’t achieved ignoring the fence-bashing black Lab on one side, we’re starting to disregard the vocal Husky on the other. An initial “woof” will be followed by a half-turn away. And, just this morning, Torque actually managed to turn his back on the provocation and “attend to business” in the yard.

Don’t get down on yourself for allowing your dog’s questionable behavior to persist. Get creative about changing it. Take advantage of your dog’s “favorite things” and use them to get a different result both of you will enjoy. Stop the insanity.

Careful where you put it! – your dog’s reward, that is.

Reward = communication

Boston Terrier dog's reward is high for the "sit" command.

Your dog learns what’s “good” through the timing and placement of rewards. The dog’s reward lets him/her know to do it again. Rewards are your training currency.

That’s worth repeating. You are communicating with your dog not only with your words, but also with the timing and placement of the rewards you give.

Notice the placement of the reward for Simon (right). We’ll talk about that in a bit.

A dog’s reward can be other than food

It doesn’t matter what the dog’s reward is – treats, toys, petting. Your dog is getting information – “That was good! Do that some more! I liked that! What a brilliant puppy you are!” Fran’s giving Simon a tiny treat above – so she can give him lots!

Timing is critical, but it takes time

Timing is something you develop. You’ll get better and better at it over time. Clickers make timing easier – you can click right away and delay the actual reward. The clicker is also called a “bridge” for this reason – it’s a way of getting from the behavior to the reward, marking the “good,” even if there’s a delay in reward delivery.

Placing the reward is key

Placing the reward properly is something you can be good at right away. The rule is simple – always reward with the hand closest to the dog – like in the picture above.

It not only keeps things simple, it’s practical, and much safer for everyone.

Safety first!

Think about it: If your dog is on your left and the treat is in your right hand, your dog will cross in front of you to get the treat. And you’ll trip over your dog. Or kick your dog. It wouldn’t be good.

If you’re playing training games where your dog is in front of you, have treats in both hands. Then you can deliver the message “Good Dog!” randomly and not have your dog nuzzling at the “treat side.”

Reward for “Sit!”

If you’re teaching your dog the word for “sit,” reward high. When the dog’s head goes up, its butt tends to go down. It’s taking advantage of a dog’s natural behavior to play training games.

Reward for “Down!”

If you’re teaching your dog the word for “down,” reward between the front paws. If your dog has to reach for the treat, chances are he’ll get up. That’s not what we want.

Stay is different

If you’re playing “stay” games – reward where the dog is. Don’t have them reach or stretch in any way.

Remember – your dog learns these games through the timing and placement of rewards. Send the message clearly!

By rewarding fear, are you training your dog to be shy?

Couple cuddling a small dog and possibly rewarding fear

We all want to protect the ones we love from the evils of the world outside. Are you going too far? By rewarding fear, have you accidentally taught your dog to be shy? Are you actually discouraging your dog from exploring the world? Have you been rewarding your dog for being fearful?

A classic example of this happened in the shop recently. A very nice man with his one-year old little terrier mix came in to get a harness and some goodies for his dog. The dog, named “Precious,” was hesitant. Many dogs are. Coming into a new place can be reason for caution. And our tile floors are somewhat reminiscent of a vet’s office.

We get it – that’s why we generally give the newcomer some time to check stuff out, sniff around, get used to the place. At first, we speak gently and don’t approach until the dog is ready. Then we might put a hand out, ready for the dog to sniff, if it seems interested. We never run up and start petting.

Rewarding fear: exactly the wrong move

Instead of encouraging Precious to check out the shop, sniff the toys, see where the treats are stashed, her owner picked her up at the first sign of retreat. He spoke soothingly to her. And told her it was okay.

He rewarded her timidity.

What would you do?

Instead of removing her from the “scary” stuff, Precious’s owner could have given her the time to get used to things. If she “asked” to be picked up, he could have encouraged her to explore. He could have rewarded her for being willing to check things out, instead of denying her the opportunity to try.

It’s sometimes a little tough for us to keep our “retail” hats on, instead of immediately switching to “trainer” mode. We tried – offering a treat to Precious and talking gently about letting her explore, but he focused on getting his puppy a harness and wasn’t really open to other discussion.

The writing on the wall

Unfortunately, we can see the writing on the wall. If he stays on the path he started, Precious will become more insulated and her world will contract. He will stop taking her on jaunts to the local pet shop because she doesn’t enjoy it. Instead of teaching her to cope with the little stresses of life, he will remove them.

Are you protecting your dog from stress instead of teaching them to deal with it? If your dog is afraid of something, do you encourage him/her to check it out? And reward for every step closer?

Give them the world

Dogs learn from us all day, every day. If we teach them that something’s frightening – it will be. Just as, if we reward them for exploring, they’ll learn that the world is a fun place to check out. Every outing can be a new adventure – depending on how you teach your dog to react.

Take it on the road – train everywhere

Don’t by shy!

Take your 2-Minute Training Games on the Road! Train everywhere you go.

For our dogs to really understand any behavior, we “take the show on the road” and train everywhere we go with our dogs. It’s one thing for your dog to know “sit” in the kitchen. Someplace else is different.

Generalization is key

Dogs have to be taught to “generalize” stuff. We see it with our obedience students all the time. They come into class swearing up and down their dogs know “sit.” So we tell them to hand us the leash, step away from their dogs, and tell the dog to sit. Rarely does it happen

And the student thinks we’ve “set them up” for failure. Not at all. We’re trying to explain that dogs naturally absorb the context along with the specific behavior. Sitting at home, with a set routine, in a particular place, at a particular time, is all part of it.

So to complete your dog’s understanding of anything you’re trying to teach, you have to change all of it. Not all at once, but in stages to expand your dog’s comprehension. One of the barriers we find is people being shy about playing training games in public.

Eyes are everywhere

These days we all know there are eyes everywhere.

But if you’re out with your dog, nobody’s watching you. They’re watching your dog. How cute he is. How much fun she’s having, and how adorably he watches you. And how incredibly well-behaved she is. And how much they wish their dogs paid attention to them the way yours does with you.

So don’t be afraid to take your show on the road. Train everywhere. Go to the local park. Or the pet store. Anyplace dogs are allowed. Try your 2-Minute Games wherever you are.

You and your dog should be proud of what you’re learning, doing, and accomplishing. Eventually you’ll take for granted that your dog can go anywhere and be a welcome guest.

Take the first, brave step to ditch your “stage fright” and take your dog on a 2-Minute training game “date.” You’ll go further, faster, when you start the journey sooner.

What does your dog’s name mean?

If your dog is ignoring you when you say his name repeatedly, there's a reason for that.

What would you guess is the most overused word in dog training?

No?
Here?
Leave it?
Sit?
Come?

All good guesses, but wrong. It’s your dog’s name.

Your dog’s name doesn’t mean much

By itself, after your dog has learned it, the name doesn’t mean much. If you’re just being goofy and making up silly songs to sing to your dog (like we do!), it’s a lyric you try to find lots of rhymes for. Just hanging in the air – it doesn’t give your dog enough information to work with.

Attention!

Calling your dog’s name should be used for attention as in: Hey Fido! Perk up your ears because I’m going to tell you something else! By itself, the name is not a command, and gives your dog no information.

But by itself it’s not a command, a correction, a celebration, or anything else. It’s the alert that should tell your dog that more information is coming:

Fido, come!

Rover, sit!

Spot, place!

Repetition becomes part of the behavior

One of the most common tendencies we see in our students is the habit of repeating themselves. Or adding an “oh!” to the dog’s name, as if that conveyed more information than just the name by itself. If there’s something you want your dog to do, just say it!

And give your dog a second!

And give the dog a moment to figure out what the word is and take action.

Saying it again, before your dog has a chance to process the conversation, will lead to your dog assuming that the repetition is part of the behavior. That’s why we don’t “correct” errors – we start again. Otherwise the error and the “re-do” become part of the behavior.

A friend of ours has a Viszla who’s a very good dog. But his “mom” says “dog, stay!” at least three times before she leaves him. Consequently, if he hears “stay” once, or twice, he doesn’t do it. Three times is the charm for this guy. Because that’s what he’s been taught. Not on purpose, but nevertheless, it’s stuck.

It’s difficult to catch yourself – we all do it. We call our dog’s names and expect them to do something – stop eating dirt, come to us, sit, whatever. But without telling them what we want, how are they supposed to know?

Dogs aren’t mind-readers!

If you want to practice getting your dog’s attention – call his/her name. And reward when he/she looks at you.

Whenever there’s something more you want your dog to do when you call, include that “something” when you call. Give him a chance to figure it out, and reward when he does.

Old habits die hard

Our morning habit is to have coffee, semi-wake-up, and then go down to the basement to our training area and have some fun with our dogs.

Dogs thrive on schedules

Each dog gets a turn. And, since dogs thrive with schedules, they go in the same order every day: Booker, Tango, Torque, and Simon.

It does require a little bit of mental gymnastics – what works for one dog isn’t universally true. They each have their favorite “tricks” they like to do. And, at least once a month, if we can think of one, we like to teach a new one.

It’s easy for Fran to come up with new stuff to teach Simon – he’s just a year old and most of his training so far has been spent on the fundamentals: sit, down, stay, walk nice on a leash, release cue. But recently Fran’s been expanding his repertoire with some fun tricks.

Tango knows how to put his toys away

Fran has trained Tango (Brussels Griffon) to put his toys away, into a bin.

One of the fun ones we teach is “put stuff away.” Tango’s version of this one is the cutest, since he actually puts dog toys in a bin. He’s never cared about toys, so they work fine as training tools.

It’s more problematic with the other dogs, who adore dog toys. We don’t have them lying around the house – we want our dogs to be playing with us when they have toys. So for the other dogs, we use a bunch of kitchen utensil odds and ends; spoons, strainers, ring molds, etc.

Train one “spoon” by itself

We start training with one “spoon” by itself. The same training sequence always holds:

clicks for looking 3x
clicks for touching with your mouth 3x
clicks for picking it up 3x
clicks for moving with it in your mouth 3x
click for dropping it 3x
Clicks for dropping it in the bin

There’s no deadline

The first day we may not even get the three “looking” clicks. That’s okay! There’s no deadline. It takes a while for dogs to understand that it’s okay to keep trying. And it may take a bit of time for the dog to figure out which part is getting the click. We have no way of knowing what dogs actually think – or how they interpret our interactions.

We started out…

We’ve been training a couple of decades now – and we learned in the bad old days when we never let a dog make a decision. And every once in a while, despite how hard we try, we fall into bad old habits. With Simon’s first try at “spoons,” he was a rock star. Whether he’d learned by watching the other dogs, it was just luck, or he somehow understands English, he got it – first time.

Resetting Fran’s brain

The test of whether a dog really knows something is whether he/she can do it again. So the next time Fran and Simon tried spoons, probably about 10 days later, he knew nothing. For whatever reason, Fran lost her mind and started saying things like “no!” when he started gnawing on the spoon – taking it from him. She put it down and started coaching him to “take it!” A quick question – “What are you doing?” stopped her in her tracks and resetting her training brain.

The old way of training was to force a dog to do something, repeatedly. Not let the dog make any mistakes, and certainly not let them choose anything. It was effective for people who could impose their iron wills on their dogs over the long term. It produced a lot of Obedience Champions.

We want our dogs to choose to abide by the rules

But it didn’t work for those of us who don’t want a permanent job watching every little thing our dogs do. We don’t want to dictate every aspect of their lives all the time. We want our dogs to be our buddies, who know the rules of the house and choose to abide by them. Just like we do.

Sorry, Mom – I’ve Got Other Plans Today

Your dog’s allowed to say “No.”

“Don’t wanna. Not gonna.”

Not all the time. Not always for the same thing. But it’s okay if your dog gives you the “Not feelin’ it today!” signal.

Positive Reinforcement is equivalent to enlightened self-interest

The basis for positive reinforcement training is letting the dog learn that his/her own “enlightened self-interest” rewards being with you and doing what you ask. Fido chooses to do what you ask because he knows, through experience, that something he wants to happen will follow. It can be a toy, a treat, tummy rubs – whatever your dog loves that’s rewarding for him.

A trainer we know recently posted about her own positive reinforcement experience at a restaurant. A place she and her husband frequented fairly regularly, over the span of months, was on their “go to” list. Last time they went, the food wasn’t as good, the servers not as attentive, the entire experience was not up to par. And on the basis of that one experience, they’ve decided to find alternatives.

That’s how fast things change for us, and for our dogs. Despite months of “positive,” a single negative was all it took for them to rethink their behavior.

Let it go

So if, for whatever reason, your dog doesn’t want to play a certain game today – let it go. Switch gears and do something else. Either a different game for the same behavior, or change it up entirely. And the next time you try the rejected game, up your reward. Either choose a more valuable reward (a tennis ball instead of a tug, cheese instead of Cheerios), or increase the rate of reinforcement.

The reason doesn’t matter

You may never know why the dog didn’t want to play that game that one time. Fran’s Tango stopped wanting to play “put your toys away” the other day. He just stopped in the middle and lied down. We puzzled over it for a minute, then realized that it was a cold, humid day and he might be in pain from arthritis. On that day, Fran played a different game with him. And the next time she tried “put your toys away” she put the toy box closer to the toys and Tango enjoyed the game immensely.

Training is training – over all species

A classic book training book is “A Dog and A Dolphin” by Karen Pryor. Training is training. Over all species. If dolphins don’t want to work with their trainers, they simply swim away. There’s not a lot a land-based human can do to force a marine mammal to obey. They get their fish regardless. Dolphins play with people because they enjoy it. And our dogs should love playing training games with us, too!

The first time, let it go…

If your dog isn’t responding as you’d expect for a single training session, let it go. If the issue persists, try looking at the game differently. What is your dog seeing? What kind of response are you giving? Did you give mixed signals, or a negative reaction to something?

Some dogs are so sensitive you have to be careful. Say you’re playing a game and clicked when you didn’t mean to, or dropped a treat. Did you say “ugh!” because you were frustrated with yourself? Your dog doesn’t know you weren’t talking to her. That could be all it takes for a very soft dog. That game might be poison now, and may take lots of reinforcement to remove the stigma.

Not a big deal

But don’t make a big deal out of it – either the refusal to play or finding a reason. There are some times when, just like us, your dog’s just not that into it. It’s okay. Tomorrow’s another day.

Anything Lassie Can Do – Your Dog Can Do Better!

Any dog can do anything!

Lassie was incredible, but your dog can do anything she did.

Any dog can learn anything. Unless the task needs thumbs. Then, maybe not.

Other than that – if you can think of it and define the steps it takes to get there, you can teach it to your dog.

However – there are lots and lots of people, dog trainers included, who limit themselves and their dogs with the labels they slap on.

“Good enough is okay – he’s a French Bulldog.”

“Shepherds can’t be trained all positive.”

“He’s a Pointer – retrieves aren’t his thing.”

WRONG! All of them.

Don’t put labels on your dog!

Our dogs’ breeds may influence how we teach them, but not whether they can be taught, or the standards we expect.

For example: Housebreaking is an absolute and everyone teaches their dogs to “potty” when and where they should. All healthy dogs are taught to keep their homes clean and eliminate appropriately. It may take a while, especially with dogs adopted from less-than-ideal circumstances. But it’s a priority, so owners take the steps necessary to achieve this vital training.

We set the criteria, teach our dogs what it is. And expect them to achieve it.

Different criteria for different breeds? Only if you set them that way.

We have a friend with a French Bulldog competing in Obedience. Our friend also has a Border Collie, a breed known for its achievements in all kinds of dog sports. Our friend has different criteria for her Border Collie than for her Frenchie.

Is the BC smarter than the Frenchie? It depends on how you rate intelligence. Border Collies love to work and will “heel” all day, given the opportunity. Frenchies would rather lounge on the couch than “heel” and her dog has taught her to expect minimal effort. From our perspective – the Frenchie has trained our friend and may be the smartest of the three.

The only different criteria may be the reward!

If you have a “Working” breed of dog – like a Border Collie or a German Shepherd, the “work” of training may be ample reward for your dog. They’re bred to work with people and to love that work. They may not “need” any other rewards – but the attitude you get may amp up even more if rewards are offered.

“Companion” breeds, like French Bulldogs, Pugs, Chihuahuas, and many others, may need to be convinced that training is more fun that napping – but it’s easy to do. If you ask your couch potato dog to come play a game with you, let him/her know there are treats involved, they’ll certainly check out what you’re offering! And if you let them know; with your tone, your rewards, and your praise, what good dogs they are, how clever they are, and how much you love them, they’ll do it more. Love it more. And meet every expectation you have for them.

Bottom Line: You and Your Dog Can Do Anything Better Than Lassie!

You and your dog can do it. Set the standard. Teach the steps. Reward the progress. Have some fun with your dog.