2 Minute Trainer

Holiday Dog Dilemma: When Your Dog Isn’t Party-Ready

“We can’t host Thanksgiving for the first time in decades!” One of our trainees was almost distraught at the thought. She loves her adopted rescue dog, but knows the dog isn’t party-ready. She has a holiday dog dilemma.

The dog is fearful around strangers, and will bark and snap.

She is helping the dog overcome his fear-aggression but realizes it’s a process that probably won’t meet her Thanksgiving deadline.

Dogs not invited

We love dogs and truly think the world would be a better place if everyone agreed with us. But we do recognize that dogs are only a part of our lives. Everyone has multiple priorities that require our time and attention. Family is first. And family traditions, like Thanksgiving, take precedence over dog training.

Just because dogs are members of the family doesn’t mean they have to be included in every family event. Especially when it would cause tremendous stress for both you and your dog.

Always another option

If our trainee’s event was only a single afternoon, it would be fine to confine the dog to a room far away from the festivities. If the dog is comfortable in a crate, use it. Turn on the television or a radio, give the dog a special treat, and leave the dog alone.

With a more extended event, if people are coming for several days, you can think about boarding the dog. There’s plenty of time between now and the holidays for you to check out boarding kennels near you, both their reputation online, and their physical facility. If possible, you can even book your dog in for a “practice” night.

Teaching party manners

Our student is relieved that she can continue both her family Thanksgiving and her pursuit of better socialization for her dog. Her goal is for her dog to be part of the festivities at home next year and avoid the holiday dog dilemma.

She’ll achieve this by building her dog’s army of “Cookie People,” both in her neighborhood and at home. She can enlist friends and neighbors to come over specifically for short dog-training sessions. It only takes a few minutes and does the dog a world of good to meet new people at home in a non-threatening way.

The objective isn’t for your dog to love everybody and be their best friend. It’s equally stressful if your dog jumps on your guests and won’t leave them alone.

The ideal is for your dog to say “Hi!” politely and then resume normal behavior. The dog shouldn’t be the life of the party.

Develop some “cookie people”

Some dogs are people-oriented and love everybody. Other dogs love a select few and are indifferent to anyone else. And then there are dogs who actively dislike anyone outside of their family and friends circle. These dogs can be challenging to live with, difficult to exercise, and impossible to bring anywhere with you. These are the dogs who most urgently need Cookie People.

The last kind of dog is also the one that might get labelled as “reactive.” While they may react rudely to strangers or unfamiliar situations, please don’t call them reactive. That word is often used interchangeably with “aggressive,” and that’s not the reputation you want your dog to have. Instead, if you must call them something, try using “excitable.” It conveys the same message, without the negative layer of meaning.

Toning down the conversation

Your dog falls into the “excitable” category if they bark at people for no reason, pull toward (or away) from strangers, and offer anti-social behaviors in new situations. In most cases, it’s probably fear-aggression. The dog is trying to act tough so no one knows how frightened they are. But we’ll never really know why. Instead, it’s up to us to teach the dog how to greet the world calmly.

One of the best techniques for chiseling away at the fear wall is to enlist an army of “Cookie People.” This may be well outside your comfort zone, but it’s necessary for your dog’s wellbeing. It’s easy enough. Just stick a bag full of your dog’s favorite treats in your pocket, leash up your dog, and go face the unsuspecting public.

Confronting strangers

The goal is to convince your dog that people are harmless. That means getting out there and talking to at least one person every day. While it can’t be the same person all the time, you should, at least for the first day, pre-arrange the encounter.

Call a friend and arrange to meet them somewhere in your neighborhood at a specific time and place. The friend should know the “script” for your encounter, which looks like this:

You and your dog are walking in the neighborhood. Up ahead, you see the fake “stranger” headed in your direction.

When you are within a few feet of each other, you ask the “stranger” if he/she will toss cookies to your dog.

The “stranger” agrees. You ask him/her not to look directly at the dog, just please toss a few treats (at least four, as many as 10) on the ground close to your dog. While tossing the treats, have a chat with the stranger, both of you ignoring the dog.

When the treats are all tossed, you and your dog say “goodbye” and continue on your walk, as does your fake “stranger.”

Rinse and repeat

If your dog is visibly upset, or won’t eat the treats, don’t push it. Don’t let the dog get close to the other person. Until their excitability is resolved, there could be trouble if your dog jumps on someone or causes them to trip.

If the dog won’t eat the treats today, try again tomorrow with better treats. This is an exercise in behavior modification and requires the treats your dog loves more than any others.

If, on the other hand, your dog was successful at disregarding the other person and enjoyed the treats thoroughly, it’s time to grow the behavior. Prepare to start confronting total strangers.

Socializing right

This socialization game is one we always play with new puppies or foster dogs in our lives. The pandemic caused some modifications in the original game, but it still works. We used to ask people if they would toss treats to our dog. When they agreed, we would just hand them a few treats. Nowadays, we pre-package a few treats in little plastic bags to give people who agree

It’s surprising how many people are willing to do you a favor, especially when you have a cute dog at your side. Since you aren’t asking for any interaction between the person and the dog, even some people who don’t like dogs will help you out. People who love dogs may be more of a problem. They may want to greet your dog, pet your dog, or deliver the treats by hand. Don’t let them. If you have to, admit that your dog is afraid of people and their behavior isn’t reliable. Make it clear that you’re in control. If the person tries to convince you they know better,, thank the person and leave. The last thing you need is someone putting pressure on your dog. If the person is too pushy, the dog may feel trapped and lash out.

Keep at it

Try to “meet” a few people every week. The more people who toss treats at your dog, the more your dog will be convinced that people are worth knowing.

We know that introverts are going to find this difficult. You can do it. Most people will be sympathetic and help. In the situation we know best, Fran’s dog Tango collected dozens of treat-tossers before he was at ease in new situations. Now, at 16 years old, he still adores some of his original Cookie People.

Your dog can control his impulses

If you think your dog is demonstrating impulse control when they sit motionless waiting for their food, you’re wrong.

You’re also wrong if you think impulse control is greeting guests with all four paws planted on the floor.

Both of these examples are trained behaviors, not impulse control. They’re both excellent things to teach your dog. But neither teaches the dog impulse control

What is impulse control?

Simply put, impulse control is the ability to think before you act and make good choices. In the examples, the dog has no choice. They’ve been taught what to do in each scenario and they’re doing it. They’re not “choosing” to be good. They understand what they should do and do it.

Years ago it was considered good dog training to tell your dog what to do at all times and make them do it. Our first mentor in training said “Never let a dog make a decision. They’ll always make the wrong one.” Fortunately, he’s changed since then. Now we know that good dog training is teaching dogs how to make good decisions. Impulse control is at the heart of good decision-making.

Ready for anything

Trained behaviors, like waiting to be released before eating, are perfectly fine for things that happen all the time. Mealtimes probably happen about the same time, in the same place, and in the same order every day. It’s an entirely predictable sequence that both your and your dog know and one that works for you.

Impulse control is the valuable tool your dog will need when confronted with different, unexpected, and unpredictable circumstances. Dogs’ innate instincts tell them they have two options, fight or flight. Dogs taught impulse control know that their first reaction isn’t necessarily the right one.

Give them the tools

If your dog acts without thinking it’s time to teach them the skills they need to make good decisions. A good place to start is our e-book Impulse Control.

Just this week we taught the game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” to our competition Obedience class. One woman, who has a Labrador Retriever, was convinced her dog would never catch on. He continued to lick and nibble on her hand, not trying anything else. But it only took about five minutes before he got the idea. She was ready to give up after three. Impulse control training may test your patience, as well as your dog’s. But many worthwhile things in life aren’t easy.

It may not be the fastest, most entertaining training game you play with your dog. But it may prove to be the most valuable training you ever share with your dog.

Dog Training Game: What’s That?

‘Tis the season for weird stuff to start showing up on your walks with your dog. Pretty soon (if not already) there will be inflatable, blowing-in-the-wind gigantic purple spiders on roofs attached to ginormous white webs. Eerily-lit monsters and vampires will pop up on lawns. Not to mention glowing orange pumpkins and creepy sounds emanating from unseen speakers.

As soon as your dog starts getting used to all that, it changes. Taking their place will be cheery, flashing lights and inflatable snow-people, accompanied by relentless songs of the season.

It can all be a bit intimidating and scary to your dog, especially if it’s the dog’s first rodeo. If your dog already knows the “What’s That?” game, they’ll be more likely to take it all in stride.

Getting to know stuff

Simon playing the What's That game with an umbrella

To teach your dog the “What’s That?” game, start by grabbing all kinds of stuff from around the house. Anything the dog’s never interacted with before is fair game. Try to find things that differ in size, material, texture, sound, scent – anything will do: noise-making children’s toys, aluminum containers, cardboard boxes, scented candles, metal pots with lids, umbrellas, storage bins. You get the idea.

Put your dog on leash so they can’t leave the area. Put one of the objects down and see how your dog reacts to it. If they’re curious, encourage them to get closer and check it out. Use the phrase “What’s That?” and look at it yourself.

One distinct difference between this game and the “Pick It Up” game is that the rewards come from you, as the dog is looking at you.

Timing and placement

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. When you want your dog to actually interact with the object, as in “Pick It Up,” the reward is given near or on the object. This lets the dog know “Yes, I do want you to do something with that thing.”

For “What’s That?” the goal is to get the dog to notice, but then ignore the object. It’s not a toy or a game piece. It’s not scary, but it’s not all that interesting, either.

Curious, not scared

Once the dog is calm around whatever the object is, either try with another object, or just walk away with your dog. You’re sending the message, “Nothing interesting here. Let’s move on.”

Dogs get startled by different sights and sounds. It’s okay for them to react, as long as they recover fairly quickly. Once your dog is used to hearing “What’s That?” you can use it whenever they spot something that causes a reaction. It lets them know you see it too. And you’re not impressed. If it’s no big deal to you, your dog will know they don’t have to worry about it.

Distance is your friend

When the odd decorations, lights, and sounds start appearing in your neighborhood, be ready to play “What’s That?” on your outings with your dog. You can’t get close enough to sniff the giant roof spider, but if you look at it with your dog and speak calmly, they’ll take their cue from you.

If it is something your dog can approach, go as near as your dog is comfortable and let them watch, listen to, or sniff whatever it is. When they look at you, reward and resume your walk.

If the dog’s reaction is more extreme, just move a comfortable distance away and let them watch. In time, they’ll realize it’s not a threat and relax. Move closer gradually, letting the dog adjust.

By the time the holidays arrive, your dog will take the season, with all its sounds, sights, and smells, in stride.

Dog Tricks 101

An accomplished Obedience competitor we know once told us, rather huffily, that she doesn’t teach her dog tricks. Like it was beneath her dignity. Fast forward to now. Her current dog, a very soft and rather timid being, loves learning tricks and knows a bunch of them. When the dog wants attention doesn’t bark or paw at her mom. She “sits pretty.” And no one can resist that. Especially not her mom.

Why teach tricks? Because it’s fun! There’s no pressure to achieve anything. It creates joy for you and your dog. It not only brings the two of you closer in synch, it deepens understanding and trust between you. And, as important as any other factor, it increases your dog’s confidence. Dogs love knowing stuff. And they love knowing they know stuff.

All dog tricks fall into one of two categories:

The dog has to manipulate an object in some way.

The dog has to manipulate his/her body in some way.

Get a move on

Of the two, getting the dog to move on their own is probably easier. Luring works for getting dogs to move where and how you want them. Luring introduces the motion for everything from “Puppy Push-ups” to “Spin!” All of the dog-motion tricks start with a lure to familiarize your dog with the action.

From there, it’s a matter of practicing with a consistent name for the motion and/or a unique hand signal. Dogs can learn either or both. If you want your dog to know the verbal and movement cues separately, start with both and as your dog becomes proficient, separate words from motion. Use the verbal command sometimes, the hand signal other times. Most dogs will show a preference for one kind of signal over the other. Notice which your dog responds to more quickly and consistently.

When your dog is familiar with the trick, whatever it is, you can start “fading” the lure. Try it without holding a treat sometimes, making sure to reward your dog immediately after completing the trick. Your dog will start to understand that the reward will always be there, even if they don’t see it before they start.

Tricks with props

Without hands and opposable thumbs, dogs’ interaction with objects is more limited than people’s. But that doesn’t have to limit your imagination – or your dog’s.

If there’s a trick with objects you want your dog to learn, the process is pretty simple. Just present the object to your dog and reward the interaction you want. If your dog isn’t used to checking out new objects, it may require some patience. Even with something dogs enjoy as much as Target Training, it may take a few sessions for the dog to figure out you want them to bop it, not pick it up, chew on it, throw it around, etc.

Just be patient. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. Generally speaking, they figure out pretty quickly what gets them “paid” and what doesn’t. That doesn’t mean you can’t talk to them, encourage them, and tell them how wonderful they are. When they do figure it out, you’ll see how happy and proud they are.

Nothing in particular

If you don’t have a particular behavior or trick in mind, you can always let your dog’s actions direct the game. Like the Boxey game, if there’s no right or wrong answer, the dog has the opportunity and freedom to be creative and try new things. Your dog may create an entirely new game. Even if you and your dog are the only ones who know the rules, it’s still a game worth playing.

By all means take video of your training game learning sessions as well as the finished products. While you may want to show off your dog’s brilliance on social media, the recordings you’ll cherish most will probably be ones where you’re just starting your games and learning together. The accolades are nice, but the most precious memories will be the ones where you and your dog goofed around and had the most fun.

Dog Training Game – Under

Our obedience club recently had a “Tricks Title” evening. Hope and another club member, also an AKC evaluator, were the judges for the event. To get a Tricks title, the dog and person have to perform a specified number of tricks, depending on the level.

For the first (Novice) level, the tricks are mostly things that just about any dog already knows. If you aren’t familiar with the AKC Tricks program, it’s fun and you can get the title with a video submission. Getting that title certificate in the mail is special – proof that your dog can do things most don’t.

One of the tricks we saw that evening was “Under” – the person went down on hands and knees and the dog ran under the person’s chest.

Seems simple, but it’s not

We hadn’t thought of doing that with our dogs, so the next morning we tried. Not one of them did it. As a matter of fact, the dogs tried everything they could think of to go around, behind, or even between our arms to figure it out.

You never know what behaviors will stump your dogs. This one didn’t seem confusing, but it was. We just had to find a way to explain it in steps our dogs would understand.

Hitting the Target Game

The Target Game is fun by itself. It’s also the gateway to all kinds of behaviors and tricks for having fun with your dog.

We use it for many behaviors, from teaching dogs to go over jumps, to the “Stay!” and release, to the Obedience “Go Out!”

With our dogs in a “Sit, Stay!” we got down on hands and knees, putting the target on the floor opposite to our dog. We keep it within reach, so we can put a treat on the target when the dog touches it.

For all of our dogs, the Target worked. The first time. They watched the set-up, and dashed “Under!” us to the target.

Did we really mean it?

Just because the dog does it once, doesn’t mean they know it. Once the dogs went “Under!” in one direction didn’t mean they understood it from the other side.

It also took a few tries to convince them we really meant it. Again, they tried to go around our legs to get to the target, or in front of us, or between our arms.

We’ll never know why our dogs were reluctant to go “Under!” us. But a few repetitions, rewards for getting it right, and a little patience has put a new trick in our repertoire.

Just for fun

Adding tricks like “Under!” is just another way to expand your bond with your dog and enrich their life. In just a couple minutes at a time, your dog could be on the way to getting mail!

Practice always shows

When we were little girls and took piano lessons, it always amazed us when our teacher knew when we hadn’t practiced. We were tone-deaf to our week-to-week improvement or lack thereof. But our teacher knew. Just like we can tell which participants in our classes play training games with their dogs. Practice always shows.

Unlike must-do homework and work projects, both piano lessons and dog training are things you do for fun and enrichment. There’s no accountability for neglecting practice. Except that you’ll never play Carnegie Hall. Or your dog will never walk politely on leash.

Just like we couldn’t tell whether we were getting better at playing the piano, you probably don’t see much difference in your dog’s behavior with a couple weeks of training games under your belt. But if you had a recording of your first time playing any training game, you’d be astonished by the difference.

Minimal investment, maximum return

The one game that most people do practice is “Puppy Push-ups.” We’re not sure if it’s because we start every class with the game, or if people (and dogs) just like it. But by the third week of class, every dog in every class we’ve ever taught is reliably understanding all three commands: Sit!, Stand!, and Down!

And yet, it seems that most people don’t even bother teaching their dogs this elementary training game. If they did, we’re pretty sure our TikTok video of it would be ignored, rather than having over a million and a quarter views.

Training games are easy to fit into your day. Focus on just one or two at a time. Figure out where you’ll probably play (near the couch, in front of the screen), stash a container of treats nearby. When a commercial starts streaming, call your dog over to play. Or just open the treat container. That should get Fido’s attention!

Pick your battles

Trainers have a saying that “Every dog is trained to their owner’s level of comfort.” It’s up to you to decide the aspects of dog behavior that are important, interesting, and fun for you and your dog. You may not care if your dog knows how to “Spin!,” so don’t bother with it. But you do want your dog to sit politely to greet guests in your home. That game moves up to the top of the list.

At the start of classes we’ll ask our students “What’s your dog’s best training game?” The answer is always the one that’s most important to that person. That’s the one they chose to play. And it’s the one their dog is best at. The practice and the proficiency go hand in hand.

Don’t complain. Train.

Dogs’ naughtiest behaviors often become the stories and anecdotes that build family legends. Like our first dog sneakily swiping a steak from the kitchen table while we were all standing there watching him. Or the auntie who darted into the bathroom as soon as you emerged to take anything/everything out of the wastebasket before her dog nabbed it.

But you don’t really want the funny stories. You want a dog who understands the rules of your household and is a full participant in family life. Pick a game. Any game. Start with one. Before you know it, you and your dog will have a concert-worthy repertoire.

Training Game: On and Off

Sometimes we invent training games for dog sports, like Obedience or Rally. Some games are just for fun. Others, like “On and Off” are for keeping our dogs healthy, fit, and moving.

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque is now 10 years old. He’s been showing some instability in his back legs. Many Frenchie people have commented about it on our videos, asking if he has IVDD (Intervertebral Disc Disease), which is fairly common in French Bulldogs. It’s not that. Instead, Torque’s hips are the problem.

Torque has always been front-heavy. It’s just the way Frenchies, and all broad-chested dogs, are built. To compensate, especially because we play dog sports, Hope has taught her dog hind-end awareness. He knows how to back up and plays “Paws & Boots” regularly.

Losing ground

A few months ago, Torque began slipping going up a flight of stairs. We figured he’d strained something, so didn’t think too much about it. Until it became months of carrying a 30 lb. dog up and down, multiple times each day. So the wheels started to turn. What could we do to help him regain his thigh muscle tone and strength? The “On and Off” game was born.

We use a foam roller for this game. Hold it steady between your feet. Because it’s foam, it’s a slightly unstable surface and requires the dog to engage their core during the game. A strong core is important to keeping your dog fit and healthy, just as it benefits people.

Like any exercise focusing on a particular muscle group, aim for a gradual increase in the number of repetitions. If your dog has weakness in their hind end, or is older, don’t overdo it, especially at first. Just like people, dogs can get sore if they start to use any muscle that’s been unused in a while.

Just like it sounds

Holding the roller between your feet, invite your dog to put their front paws on top. Reward for success. If your dog doesn’t know “Paws Up!” or a similar command, you can lure this behavior at the start. Just hold the treat slightly above the dog’s nose and move it up and toward you. The dog should follow the movement of the treat. When the dog’s two front paws are on the roller, give the dog the treat and name the behavior. We call it “On!” but you can certainly use “Paws Up!” as you might for the Paws And Boots training game.

Have you taught your dog a release word? If so, you can use that to let your dog know it’s time to step off the roller. Or you can use “Off!” It’s a natural extension of the “Off!” game you taught your dog to stop them jumping on people.

Just a bit more

Repeat the “On and Off” a few times. Aim for five or so repetitions at first. If you’re trying to build up your dog’s hind end strength, try to add one or two repetitions each time you play. A couple times a week should be sufficient.

After less than a month of playing “On and Off,” we’re pleased to report that Torque is more confident going up stairs now. He’s only doing a couple at a time, but it’s better than none. Especially if you have small dogs, a full flight of stairs may be the equivalent of a three-story building to a person. Reward for any progress and each step forward.

Positive reinforcement works on people, too

We were fans of the tv show “The Big Bang Theory.” One episode featured a classic example of positive reinforcement training.

If you watched the show, you know that the primary characters, Leonard and Sheldon, were scientists. Sheldon, in generous terms, wasn’t adept at social interaction. In this episode, Leonard, his girlfriend Penny, and Sheldon are watching TV. When Penny talks over the program, Sheldon gets annoyed. He gives her a glare and she promises to be quiet. He offers her a chocolate. Penny’s phone rings and, after a glance at Sheldon, says she’ll go into the hall to talk. Sheldon offers her a chocolate.

Sheldon’s applying positive reinforcement to get what he wants. Leonard notices and says:

“Sheldon, you can’t train my girlfriend like a lab rat!”

Sheldon replies “Actually it turns out I can.”

Not a new concept

While most sources attribute positive reinforcement to B.F. Skinner’s development of operant conditioning in the 1930s, the concept is much, much older. Ever heard the proverb “You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar”? Ben Franklin’s Poor Richard’s Almanac cited it in 1844.

Positive reinforcement is one of the quadrants of operant conditioning. Explaining the other three would dive deep into weeds most people would rather not explore. If you, too, are nerdily interested, there’s lots to find. Have fun!

The point is that positive reinforcement works on people as well as dogs. Everybody is more interested and eager if they know their efforts will be appreciated. Sometimes that’s a simple “thank you!” or “well done!” And sometimes it’s a piece of chocolate.

Getting where you want to be

Research has proven that positive reinforcement works better for learning and retention than punishment-based training. “Reward-based dog training offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare,” according to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, which says there is no evidence that aversive practices are necessary for dog training or behavior modification.

It’s also true that positive reinforcement training requires time and patience. Having a background in correction-based training, we know that a few strong “collar pops” will probably stop a dog from pulling. It will also make the dog fear the collar and cause pain. Punishment-based trainers have euphemisms to describe what they do. “Collar pop” or “correction” sounds better than yanking on a dog’s collar to hurt them.

Getting a dog to understand what you want is like playing charades with an alien. You don’t have a common language, you can only communicate through motions and rewards. It takes time to reach understanding. Once your dog realizes that every little training game will be fun and rewarding, they’ll love those sessions.

Take a breath

It may take a while for the light bulb to turn on in your dog’s brain. You may get to a point where, after a week or two, you’re wondering if you’re doing something wrong or if you have the dumbest dog on the planet. That’s just about the time when you can expect your dog to come up with flashes of brilliance. Just when you’re starting to despair.

Sticking with short, fun training games isn’t a huge commitment. Devoting ten or 15 minutes a day to your dog should be something you look forward to. The best way to start the day is playing a couple games with your best friend. Just ask your dog.

Luring And Rewarding- Treats in their proper place

What’s the difference between luring and rewarding your dog?

Picture yourself planning a driving trip to someplace you’ve never been. One way of getting there is just entering it into your map app on your phone and following directions. Presto! You have arrived. You may have absolutely no idea how you got there. And you might not have a clue how to get home. But it worked.

In the olden days, you’d take out a road map, plot your trip, consider the alternatives, use your familiarity with traffic patterns, and choose the best option. You’d know where you drove, how you got to your destination, and how to get home again.

Easier isn’t better

The GPS option is certainly easier. So is luring your dog. That doesn’t mean it’s better. If you always stick a treat in front of your dog’s nose to get them to do something, they aren’t learning. They’re following directions.

The point of training (aside from having fun with your dog) is teaching them how to do stuff and make good decisions. You don’t want to have to tell your dog what to do all day every day. It can get exhausting.

Instead, teach them how to think and reward good decisions.

More tools in the kit

There is a place for luring. It’s in the initial, teaching stage of a new behavior. “Spin!” is a good example. While some dogs may spin around naturally, it’s not a given. Luring the dog into a spin is the easiest way to show them what you want them to do. It has the added benefit of showing the dog the arm motion you’ll use to signal a spin.

While it may not be a natural behavior, it’s one that most dogs learn quickly and love doing. It transitions easily from luring to rewarding.

Luring and rewarding

Luring is having a treat in your hand and leading your dog to behave a certain way. Rewarding is asking the dog for something and giving a treat immediately after they do it. The timing has to be so close that the dog knows their action prompted a great reward. Booker has gotten rewarded for spinning, so he’ll do it repeatedly.

The premise here is “What gets rewarded gets repeated.” If your dog got a treat for spinning, chances are strong they’ll spin again. As long as the reward comes right after, the dog will retain the link between the action and its yummy result.

Making dogs think

Dogs aren’t stupid. When they know that something great is going to happen if they behave a certain way, they do it. They’re motivated to act.

Better yet, dogs will puzzle out what they have to do to earn that treat. When you have a dog trained with positive reinforcement, they’ll try all kinds of things to see what gets them the goodies. As your dog becomes increasingly confident, they’ll show you more and different actions to win the reward.

Patience pays

The hardest thing about dog training is being patient and letting your dog think. Introducing new things with a lure starts your dog on the path. Fading the lure and replacing it with a reward solidifies your dog’s grasp on the behavior. You’ll know you’re there when you can wave your hand in a circle and your dog spins like a top. Make sure that good dog’s reward is close at hand.