Dog Training Games Archives - Page 2 of 13

Foundation Dog Games #5: Puppy Push-ups

Puppy Push-ups is our absolute favorite dog training game. Every class we teach, from Puppy Basics to Competition Obedience, starts with everybody doing Puppy Push-ups with their dogs.

Why? The game is fast. It’s fun. And, it’s the best game for teaching dogs the position words. Dogs love it because there’s a high rate of reward. And everyone who interacts with your dog will love that your dog knows Puppy Push-ups.

What is Puppy Push-ups?

Puppy Push-ups is just a random, rapid sequence of “Sit!”, “Stand”, and “Down.” The faster you play, the more fun it is for everyone.

Most Puppy Push-ups games alternate only between “Sit!” And “Down!” With only two positions to choose from, dogs may not understand the words. They just know if it’s not this one, it’s that one. By adding the “Stand!” To the mix, your dog actually listens. They learn which word means what. Most dogs aren’t taught “Stand!” But we don’t know why. Your dog’s groomer and veterinarian will love it. And so will you.

How to teach the positions

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. In this case, they already know “how,” so that’s not a problem. What we have to teach is associating the word with the position.

This is one of the few cases where we actually will lure the dog in order to get them to move into the right position. This is where the timing and placement of rewards comes in.

For the “Sit!”, hold a treat at your dog’s nose and slowly move it up and slightly back. Dog’s anatomy dictates that when the head comes up, the butt goes down. As your dog’s butt hits the floor, tell them it’s a “good Sit!” Or “That’s Sit!” Be sure you use the position word “Sit!” Almost everyone says “Good girl (or boy)!” Instead of “good Sit!” To teach the word you have to use the word.

For the “Stand!” hold a treat at your dog’s standing nose level and slowly move it away from your dog, keeping it at the same level. Most people move too quickly and don’t give their dogs a chance to get their hind end moving. Be patient. Hold the treat level and steady, but don’t give it to the dog until they’re actually standing. Same deal – be sure to say “Good Stand!” Not “Good Dog!”

“Down!” Is rewarded between the dog’s front legs as they’re lying on the floor. Again, start at the dog’s nose level and slowly bring it down to the floor. Be patient – stay exactly where you are until your dog is actually lying down.

What could go wrong

The most common issue is the dog not sustaining any position after the reward is delivered. Avoid this “one and done” syndrome by giving your dog multiple rewards for maintaining the position. Have two or three treats ready. If your dog stays in position, keep rewarding and saying “That’s Sit!” Or “Good Sit!” (Or Stand! or Down!). Then either give them another position or say their release word.

At first, give your dog a reward for every single position change. And as your dog learns the game, speed it up. The faster it goes, the better. It gets more fun for both of you. Be sure to randomize the three positions. It will show you whether your dog truly knows the words or if they need more practice.

That practice is easily incorporated into your daily life. Have a container of treats in every room in the house. When you enter a room, notice what your dog is doing, name it and reward it. It won’t take long for your dog to learn the words.

Throw in some curves

Once you’re pretty sure your dog knows Puppy Push-ups, you can start changing it up to keep it new and interesting. Try it with your dog beside you. Or between your legs. Even try it with your dog behind you. Build distance. How far away can you be and still have your dog do their Push-ups?

Dogs start loving this game pretty easily. They don’t have to do anything scary or new. They get lots of treats. And it makes you happy.

You can use Puppy Push-ups anywhere and anytime you need your dog’s attention. Or when you want them to switch gears into “work” mode. That’s why it’s a great start for every dog training class.

Foundation Dog Games #4: 3 – Step Pattern Walking

3-Step Pattern Walking is the dog training game that fixes people’s number one complaint about their dogs – pulling on leash.

The longer your dog has been practicing pulling, the more ingrained the habit. And, honestly, most dogs like pulling – even if it makes them choke. The logic of it is simple. With a tight leash, the dog doesn’t have to pay attention to you. They know exactly where you are. Which frees up your dog to check out everything in the environment.

Changing the rules

Since habit is powerful, you’re not going to try to change it. Instead, 3-Step Pattern Walking gives you and your dog a new way of walking. Rather than breaking a habit, it’s a new way of going for walks.

We’re not going to lie. How long it takes to work, or whether it works at all, is entirely on you.You can’t skip ahead or move forward before your dog’s ready. But if changing the behavior matters to you, and you work the process, it works like a charm.

First step

Choose a three-word phrase you can easily remember. Most people use 1-2-3, or A-B-C. The most creative one has been “Coffee, Tea, Wine.”

Don’t make it specific to this dog, or use your dog’s name. Once you see how well this works, you’ll use it for every dog you have in your lifetime. Keep it simple and easy to say.

Once you’ve decided on your three word phrase, Get a bunch of high-value treats and your dog. Take five treats. Say only the third word in your sequence and give your dog a treat. Don’t ask your dog to do anything. They don’t have to sit, or look at you, or do anything. They’re getting a treat when they hear the word.

What you’re doing is making that third word the most valuable word in the world to your dog. EVERY SINGLE TIME they hear that word, they get a treat. No exceptions. And, at this point, no demands on their behavior.

Next Steps

Take another five treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. On the third word, give the dog a treat.

Most people can predict what’s coming next. Say the entire three-word phrase and give your dog a treat on the third word. It does help if you make that third word more exciting. Your dog has now gotten 15 treats when they hear your third word. That word is starting to sound pretty amazing to your dog.

That’s it for the first session. You’re just introducing the phrase and its value to your dog.

Do it again

The next session, do exactly the same thing. Your third word is starting to become a jackpot for your dog. If your dog’s head isn’t whipping around to look at you when you say that third word, stay here. Get better treats. We want your dog to perk up and be excited to hear that third word.

If your dog starts to drool at the second word, it’s time to move ahead. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. So it’s time to teach them where they’ll get that third-word reward. Hold the treat at the side of your leg. You’ll do the same thing, five treats each for word three, words two-three, and one-two-three. But the difference is the dog must come to the side of your leg to get the treat.

Time to move

When your dog understands when (word three) and where (by your leg) they get rewarded, it’s time to put the pattern in motion. At first, one step for each word in the phrase. Keep your hands at your waist, just bringing the treat hand (the one closest to the dog) down on the third word. Don’t keep the treat in front of your dog’s nose. We’re rewarding, not luring.

When your dog reliably comes to the reward zone, or stays by your side as you walk and repeat the phrase, you can move on. Speed it up, take it out on walks.

Don’t expect your dog to pay attention to the game for more than a few minutes at a time. If you’re walking in your neighborhood, with lots of distractions, use it only for two or three repetitions. Before you start, get your dog’s attention with “Touch!” Don’t just start yelling your dog’s 3-word phrase when they’re yanking you down the street. Stop, get some focus, then start.

Practice makes a new habit

We’re overlying a new habit on your dog’s previous behavior with this foundation game of 3-Step Pattern Walking. It takes time to form a new habit, so be patient and consistent. The result is worth it. Making every outing with your dog a nice walk in the park.

Foundation Dog Games #3: Touch!

“Touch!” is the dog training game we use most often. It’s a fast, fun game. No special equipment, nothing but your hands, some treats, and your dog. The more you play it, the more useful “Touch!” becomes. Make it your dog’s favorite game – you’ll be happy you did.

We’ve seen “Touch!” played a few different ways, with varying results. The version we use really emphasizes the mechanics of the game. It makes a difference when you want to sustain the game longer than a single touch.

It’s one thing to grab your dog’s attention momentarily when there’s a bicycle flying down the walking path next to you. It’s another when you need to keep your dog’s mind occupied while sitting in the veterinarian’s waiting room with a cat in a carrier across the aisle. Our version of “Touch!” is useful in either case.

Timing is everything

Basically, “Touch!” is just holding out your hand and your dog touches it with their nose. Sounds easy, and it is. The tricky part, if there is one, is keeping the dog doing it. It’s the last place you want your dog displaying “one and done” syndrome.

Remember that dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. That translates to being very conscious of what you’re doing and how you’re doing it. You don’t have to worry that you’ll break your dog, or ruin the game irretrievably. Getting it “wrong” just means you might confuse your dog and it may take an extra 2-Minute session or two for them to get it. Relax and have fun.

Focus on procedure

To play “Touch!”, hold your hand, palm out, in front of your leg at the level of your dog’s nose. It doesn’t matter which hand, or which leg. You’ll be manipulating the treats with the other hand, so it’s probably smart to offer the palm of your non-dominant hand to your dog.

Hold your palm-out hand right there. Don’t ever move it in this game. Pretend it’s surgically attached to your leg and does not move. Again – the open palm facing your dog does not move during the game. Ever.

In case the emphasis and repetition don’t clue you in, this is the part of the game that almost everyone screws up when they’re learning how to play. That open palm is waggling all over the place, bopping into the dog’s face, curling around a treat, shifting to keep it in the dog’s sight. Again – the open hand that your dog needs to touch Does Not Move.

When your dog interacts with the palm in any way (looks at it, sniffs it, licks it, touches it with their nose), use the other hand to bring a treat to the palm and give it to your dog. You can say “Good Touch!” if the dog did it. Otherwise, just stay quiet. Do Not Move The Open Hand. Just leave it there. Wait for your dog. Be patient.

Note: if your dog paws at your hand, don’t reward it. We’re being specific that the dog’s nose has to “Touch!” If this game looks a little like “Gimme Your Paw” to your dog, that’s understandable. When you play “Gimme Your Paw,” use a cupped hand, rather than a flat, open palm so your dog will understand the difference. You can start, like Hope did with Simon, seated cross-legged on the floor and your arm resting on your knee

Sustaining the “Touch!” behavior

As long as your open hand remains in place, your dog should keep touching it. Reward every single touch. Because the rate of reward is high for this game, dogs tend to learn it quickly and love playing it. Don’t be stingy with the treats. We want this game to have high interest and value for your dog so you can rely on their response when you need it.

There really isn’t any next step. You put your palm out, your dog touches it, deliver a reward with the other hand, using the open palm as a target for the treat. Give the dog the treat – don’t drop it in your open palm (which would require moving that hand, which you shouldn’t do). You deliver it to the dog near the open palm. It can look and feel a little awkward, but it’s the way to explain the game to the dog. Remember dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. This is the placement part. It matters.

Play often, wherever

Because this is a go-to game in all kinds of stressful situations, be sure to play it often. Play it in every room, outside, in the car, at the pet store – wherever you and your dog go together. To keep your dog’s interest and love of the game at the highest level, don’t even try to slack off on the rewards. If every single “Touch!” gets rewarded, your dog will, reliably, “Touch!” when you ask them to.

If you keep the “Touch!” game valuable to your dog, they’ll respond when you need them to. Like when you let them out in the yard late at night for last walks and see the skunk ambling across. If your dog dashes over to “Touch!” you may not have to make a midnight run to the store for tomato juice.

Foundation dog games #2: Place!

The dog training game“Place!” is the game that gives your dog something to do when the doorbell rings, when elderly Aunt Gertie is on the move with her walker, even when you’re busy chopping vegetables at the table.

“Place!” isn’t the “go to your room!” order that let you know you were in trouble as a kid. Your dog’s designated place is a good thing. It’s a comfort zone where your dog is happy and gets rewarded for hanging out.

Call it what you want

As with anything you train your dog to do, you can call it whatever you want. Some people choose “Mat!” or “Bed!” You should call it whatever works for you and your dog. Dogs don’t know words until you teach them. As Humpty Dumpty said: ““When I use a word, it means just what I choose it to mean — neither more nor less.”

It helps if the word is short and easy to say, but you be you. It’s your dog and you can teach them whatever you want. We know someone who trained their dog to understand words in Klingon. It’s a bit guttural for us, but works for her.

Set up

In time, your dog will learn that they can have multiple mats designated as “Place!” To teach the word, choose a dog bed, mat, towel, bath mat, or whatever and move it to the center of a clear area. For this initial teaching phase, choose a quiet, small spot without distractions. Your dog isn’t going to know what’s going on, so they may get a little frustrated and try to check out on you.

Until dogs learn that it’s okay to experiment, many are afraid of getting things “wrong.” To avoid it, they may choose not to play. It takes a bit to overcome their reluctance. The dog isn’t “refusing” or “acting out” if they don’t rush in to play with you. They’re confused, unused to making choices, and worried they’ll choose the wrong thing.

This is a game that everyone in the family can play with the dog at the same time. While you don’t want to overwhelm the dog, you do want everyone to be part of training games.

Possess your soul in patience

Everyone should have a few treats. Then you just all stand around the “Place!” and look at it. When the dog interacts with the “Place!” in any way – looks at it, sniffs it, paws at it – one person drop a treat on the mat and say “Good Place!” As long as the dog stays interested in the Place, toss a treat onto it every few seconds, repeating “Good Place!”

Be sure nobody is handing the dog a treat. In order to make the “Place!” valuable to the dog, the treats have to be associated with the mat. If your dog always finds treats there, it’s a great place to be.

After rewarding the dog a few times for the same interaction with the “Place!” it’s time to expect more. Say your dog looked at the mat. When they continue the same behavior (looking), tell them they’re good, encourage them, and ask for more. “That’s good!” “What else can you do?”

Do NOT tell them to get in the bed or point at it. The entire exercise is based on the dog deciding for themselves that it’s a wonderful, chosen “Place!” that they love. If you always decide for your dog, you’ll always have to. Growing their understanding is how they learn to make good decisions. Let them.

Take the dog training game place at your dog’s pace

The first time you play the dog training game “Place!” you may not get anywhere. That’s okay. It’s why every dog training game should be less than five minutes. You’ll try again another time. Your dog also has to learn to trust the process. You’ll get there. The steps, depending on the dog, are: look, touch, one paw, two paws, three paws, four paws, sit, and/or down on the place.

Once your dog gets it and goes dashing to sit or lie down on their “Place!” the other side of the coin is getting them off of the “Place!” Remember, as long as they’re interacting with the mat, they get treats tossed on the “Place!,” maintaining its value. When it’s time for the dog to move off, toss a treat off to the side and release the dog to “Find it!” or “Search!” or “Go!”

Dashing all the way

You know your dog is on target with the game if they dash over to get the treat and dash back to their “Place!” That’s when you start introducing new parts to the game. You can vary the “Place!” teaching your dog that any mat or bed can be “Place!” You can move the “Place!” around the house so your dog knows it’s the same game wherever you are.

For some people the ultimate goal of the dog training game “Place!” is having the doorbell be a cue for your dog to go “Place!” Pair the sound of your doorbell with the word “Place!” once your dog understands the word. If you want “Place!” to be your dog’s doorbell behavior, it will take some time and patience, but you and your dog can do it.

The Dog Name Game

Fundamental Dog Training Games
1st of 7 in the series

The first, most foundational game your dog should learn is the Dog Name Game. It’s just like it sounds – your dog needs to know his/her name.

A friend of ours totally solved the issue. Realizing she and her husband invariably called their dogs “buddy” instead of their names, she named her new puppy Buddy. It works. He knows his name and responds without fail.

New cast of characters

A dog training student of ours recently adopted an adult dog from a shelter. The dog knew absolutely nothing when they got him, including the name the shelter gave him. Most rescues and shelters we know assign new names to dogs they take in. If the dog’s original name is known, they will try to use a variant that the dog may recognize. Most times, it means little, if anything, to the dog.

That has to change. Whatever your dog’s age or where you got them from, the first thing they need to know is their name. When you say your dog’s name, their head should whip around toward you and their expression should be “What fun are we going to have now?”

Choose a good one

You can call your dog whatever you want. It’s probably the only circumstance where your opinion is the only one that matters. If you plan to compete in dog sports, it’s a good idea to choose something short, easy to say, and distinct. There’s a good reason that “Bella” and “Max” were the most popular dog names last year. They both fit the bill.

Over time, your dog will acquire all kinds of nicknames, from riffs on their actual name to sobriquets like “Knucklehead.” As long as you and your dog both know and like it, it’s fine.

Change can be good

What if your dog arrived with a name you don’t like? Change it! If everything in the dog’s life is new, why not their name? It’s just as easy to play the dog name game with a new name as an old. You’ll be adding value to the name you choose.

If it’s a puppy, they’ll probably respond to anything anybody says, as long as they use an exciting voice. There is a special intonation people use for babies of all species. Try it out, looking at a picture of a cute puppy. Listen to yourself and keep that voice in mind when you play the Name Game.

How to play

The Name Game takes a little preparation. Buy a bunch of lidded small containers if you don’t already have them. Make a treat “trail mix,” with all kinds of dry treats your dog likes. You can mix kibble, cereal, freeze-dried meat, jerky, etc. We’ve talked about great dog training treats before, but the idea of the mix is that your dog never knows what’s coming next. There’s always the excitement of anticipation.

Fill the containers and distribute them around the house – one in every room. That includes the bathroom if your dog is in the habit of following you there, too. You’re not alone – most dogs do.

Now you’re ready to play the Name Game.

Just that easy

All you do is say your dog’s name and, when they look at you, give them a treat. That’s it. They don’t have to do anything else. If you’re playing the Name Game, don’t ask them to sit before they get the treat. This isn’t about “Sit!” All they have to do is look at you.

Your dog will learn rapidly that responding to their name is always rewarded. Try not to say it when you don’t have a treat ready. Or if you’re annoyed. Use the happy-puppy tone.

Remember when your mother used your whole name? And the tone she used for it? Don’t do that to your dog. If your dog has done something naughty, try not to use their name. It’s the one word you absolutely don’t want to poison by associating it with something unpleasant.

Always happy to hear it

Preserve your dog’s name for happiness. It has to be a trust word. Whenever you say it, good things happen.

It doesn’t take long for dogs to learn their names playing this game. For all those saying “My dog doesn’t pay attention!” this is the game that turns that around. You can absolutely get and keep your dog’s focus, if you make it worthwhile.

Managing dog expectations

What are your dog expectations? What do you want from them? And how fast do you think you can get it?

A woman who’s taken our classes contacted us a couple weeks ago. She and her husband adopted a two (?) year old dog from a nearby shelter and want to start training the new guy.

So we got them started on the basics: teaching him his name. Playing “Touch!” Puppy Push-ups for vocabulary. Some Pattern Walking. And, after five days, she called for more help with his issues. Clark apparently jumps on people, doesn’t come when called, and fixates on squirrels and rabbits on walks. And “nothing” they try can get his attention.

Expecting too much too soon

They can’t get his attention because, at this point, “nothing” is what this dog knows. For his entire life, prior to two weeks ago, Clark was never taught to think. Never taught to make good decisions. Never had any expectations laid upon him.

Had they gone to a force trainer, it’s quite possible that Clark would be “behaving” better. He would know that if he doesn’t comply with commands, he will be punished. He wouldn’t be more polite and attentive because he’s learned that being “good” is right. He’d obey because he wants to avoid pain.

There’s no question that positive reinforcement training and training games take longer. It takes time to communicate to dogs that their best interest and yours coincide. Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. Together, you have to build the foundation of trust and partnership.

Expect more

The benefits of training games are also more long-lasting. Once the dog catches on that playing learning games is fun, they’ll want to do it more and more. When your dog is on board with the program, they’ll come find you when it’s time to play.

When that happens, your expectations for your dog can soar. At this point, when we make up or introduce a new training game to our dogs, most of the time they pick it up in just a few training sessions. When they don’t, there’s something wrong with the game.

Our biggest “fail” so far was trying to train Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, to distinguish between colors. We gave it a fair shot, over a dozen or more sessions, but he just wasn’t getting it. We still don’t know whether it’s because dogs can’t see the colors we were using, or if it was a flaw in the game.

Got it!

On the other hand, one of the most recent “wins” was getting our dogs to do Puppy Push-ups when we were behind or over them. They easily adjusted to the simple change. The parameters of the game were familiar. So their knowledge and experience led to success.

Letting your dog think and learn at their pace requires you to use patience. Sometimes it takes every ounce you have. We introduced a thinking game to our Rally students this week and two of the dogs weren’t able to get it. One because she’s a rescue with a long history of trauma. The other because her owner has told her what to do every moment of her life. Both of these dogs are new to thinking, trying, and making good decisions. We expect it will take a little time. But both will get it, sooner or later. And the owners’ dog expectations can grow – a little at a time.

Step over your dog

Step over your dog? Why? Dogs are a trip hazard. We know, because our cousin shattered her knee cap tripping over her German Shepherd Dog. It was an accident, and those happen to everybody. What made this particular situation worse was that, as she was stepping over the dog on the way, the dog got up. She was actually lucky. It was her dog’s habit to sleep in the hall at the top of the stairway. Our cousin was lucky to break her knee and not her noggin.

Are you wondering what this has to do with dog training? If the dog had been trained to accept being stepped over, brushed by, or even pushed against, she wouldn’t have gotten up and our cousin may not have fallen.

If you’ve played in either Obedience or Rally, your dog is probably accustomed to you walking around them. But if you’ve never taught your dog to let you walk all the way around them, the time has come.

Why do I need that?

Our beginner class students always give us the “Why?” puzzled face when we start teaching “Walk Around Your Dog.” No one thinks they’ll need it. And everyone is pretty surprised when their dog doesn’t let them do it. It’s no big deal to you, so you’ve probably never paid much attention to what your dog does when you walk around them. Almost one hundred percent of the time, dogs will either swivel on their butts to watch you, or stand to keep their face pointed in your direction. Dogs like to know where you are and what you’re doing. All the time.

The scenario we have students imagine is this: You’re making a pasta dinner. Your cooktop is on the opposite side of the kitchen from your sink. The pasta’s done and ready to be drained. And your dog is sitting in the absolute geographic center of the kitchen. If they don’t move, you’ll be okay, there’s plenty of room to walk around them. Unless, of course, they get up and move into the path you were planning to take. If you’re lucky, no boiling water sloshes on anyone. We tend not to be lucky. So we train our dogs to stay put. You may not ever need to step over your dog, but if you do, it’s a handy thing to have trained.

Brush against them

Just as we tend not to be terrifically lucky, we’re also not the most graceful people on the planet. Every so often we move awkwardly, or carry something unwieldy, so we might brush up against our dogs as we pass by them. They need to accept this as normal and not freak out, jump up, and get in the way when it happens.

Next time you practice your “Stay!” with your dog, brush your foot against them when you’re moving. Don’t kick your dog, but let your foot make a bit of contact with your dog’s side, or paw, or butt as you move around. If your dog stays put, reward and do it again. But if they don’t, set it up again and reduce the stress and surprise of the contact. If you brushed the dog’s hind foot, try the front instead so they can clearly see there was nothing to worry about. If you contacted the dog’s hind end, make it a shoulder instead.

Just try it a couple of times, reward the dog and be done for that session.They’ll get used to the incidental touches. Just do it now before you ever actually need it. Gradually increase the pressure of the contact as well as practicing actually stepping over them. Last week we talked about “Middling,” and another thing to practice is to let the side of one foot and then both touch your dog when he’s in the middle.

Everywhere, every position

If your dog aces “Walk Around Your Dog” when lying down, move on to the “Sit!” and the “Stand!” As always, do it in different places so your dog truly learns what it means. And every once in a while actually step over your dog.

It may seem like a little thing. And it is. Until you’re heading to the bathroom at 2 a.m. and your dog is lying in your path. In this case an ounce of prevention would have prevented a very painful pound of cure.

Dog Training Game: Middling

We mean that quite literally. This game is to teach your dog to stand between your legs, facing the same way you are. It’s a great position to teach them, especially if there are times when your dog is nervous. The dog training game: Middling shouldn’t be confused with hiding, which should not be encouraged. “Middling” is a safe space, but it’s not a hideaway for timid dogs.

It’s a recent variant we’ve been using for our Puppy Pushups practice. Once your dog knows the positions “Sit!”, “Stand!” and “Down!”, there are only so many combinations you can use. If they know the words, the game can get a bit boring if you let it. We’ve come up with lots of ways of playing; just words, just hand signals, varying distance, etc. And the dogs took each one in stride and mastered it in no time.

But when we tried straddling our dogs, it was as if they’d never heard the words before. You never know how dogs will react to a new scenario until you try it.

Get them centered

If you’ve never tried standing with one leg on either side of your dog, you may be surprised by how freaked out they are. You can almost hear them thinking “What’s this about? You’re being weird!”

So rather than weirding them out, play a preliminary game of “Toss Through.” This is a fast, easy game for most dogs. All you do is stand in front of your dog with your legs wide enough apart that your dog can run through. Show your dog a treat, toss it through your legs, and tell your dog to get it. Then, when your dog’s behind you, bend over, looking through your legs, catch your dog’s eye and toss a treat the other way, so your dog runs between your legs back to front.

It doesn’t take most dogs more than a couple tosses to fall in love with this game. Just be sure the treat you’re using is visible, so your dog can easily find it. If your dog isn’t particularly treat-motivated, you can certainly toss a toy instead.

Next step

Once your dog loves running back and forth through your legs, it’s time to introduce a “Stop!” in the middle. The easiest way to do this is, with your dog behind you, show them the treat and bring them forward. Raise the treat as they come through your legs and say “Sit!” If all goes well, the dog should be right under you. If so, reward.

If not, chances are your dog thought it was too odd and swung their butt around so they’re facing you. That’s the favorite position for most dogs – keeping an eye on you at all times. You can remedy this by giving them a designated spot for the “Sit!”.

If you haven’t taught your dog “Place!”, now’s the time. Get a small towel, or mat large enough only for the dog to sit on. One of our favorite training tools is a cheap yoga mat that we cut into whatever shapes and sizes we need. That’s ideal for this training.

When your dog knows “Place!”, position the mat between your feet and try again. The similar context will give your dog the information they need to understand. When you’ve achieved the “Sit!,” go for the “Down!” and “Stand!” as well. The mat really helped Simon to understand the new dog training game: middling.

Everything in its place

Just a subtle change, like changing your positions, can throw your dog for a loop. Remember they’re contextual learners. When the context changes, everything’s different. By teaching your dog different variables of familiar behaviors, you increase their understanding and ability to generalize. “Sit!” always means the same thing, no matter where you are or what you’re doing. Teaching dogs how to be flexible and “go with the flow” will add confidence to every aspect of life.

The best dog training treats

It’s the question that gets asked on social media more than any other – “What training treats are you using?” The answer is simple: the best dog training treats are the ones your dog likes.

Of course dogs’ tastes range widely. There are treats the dog will eat, treats they’ll move to get, and treats the dogs will run through fire to get. The value of any food reward depends on the dog. It’s up to you to discover your dog’s treat hierarchy.

Start with the basics

How eagerly does your dog eat their regular food? If it’s a dry commercial food and your dog devours it, you’re in great shape. It’s the foundation for a “trail mix” of treats that will make your dog happy.

If your dog isn’t an eager eater, it’s more of an issue. In all honesty, we have no experience with dogs that don’t devour their food. For us, a dog refusing to eat is on his/her way to the veterinarian without much lag time. Based on what we know about dogs, if your dog is a reluctant eater, there are a few possibilities:

The dog just doesn’t like the food. The fix for this is to try different varieties until you come up with one the dog likes. Give each kind a fair test. Switching constantly may have your dog refusing food until they’re given something “better.” That’s a different kind of trouble.
There’s something wrong with the dog. Over the years we’ve had dogs with ulcers and acid reflux, so had to adjust their food and feeding schedule.
The dog isn’t hungry because it’s overfed. If you adhere to the amounts on most commercial dog food packages, your dog is stuffed to the gills.

Your dog’s regular food is the base of the treat hi erarchy. Working your way up from there, the next tier of the hierarchy, includes treats the dog likes and will get up off their butt to reach. This would include many of the commercial dog treats available. It can also include things like cereal (most dogs like the O-shaped oat cereal. Our dogs prefer the honey-nut flavor.), air-popped popcorn, carrots, apple, celery (Torque’s favorite), and green beans (either fresh or frozen).

Moving up the list to treats dogs adore. These are usually things like Chicken Heart Treats, freeze-dried liver, bits of cheese, hot dog, french fries, peanut butter. These treats are the ones your dog would run through fire to get. They’re also the ones that should be given sparingly, especially if your dog has a sensitive stomach. For soft things, like peanut butter or cream cheese, let your dog lick them off the end of a spoon. It takes a little manipulation, but if that’s what your dog likes, you’ll figure it out.

Make a “trail mix”

When you’re training your dog, every room in the house should have a covered container of dog treats. Mix up a big bowl of dry treats from all three tiers of your dog’s hierarchy. Put portions of that mixture in the containers, so you always have treats available. If you have a container sitting on the shelf, you can grab it when the television commercial break starts and complete a whole training game before the show comes back. When it’s easy, you’re more likely to do it.

If the trail mix has a variety of treats in it, your dog will always be hopefully that the A-list treat is up next. They’ll be happy to play with you regardless, but the variety makes it more fun and interesting for your dog.

Rule of treats

For a training class, or when you’re playing a new-to-you training game, the treats should be top-tier, pinnacle level. It keeps your dog interested and attentive, even if their classmates are barking their fool heads off. Or if they don’t understand the new game yet and are getting a little frustrated.

In these scenarios, the treat slogan is “soft, small, and smelly.” Soft, so the dog doesn’t leave crumbs all over and stop to clean up the floor. Small, so they’re less than a full bite and your dog won’t get full. Smelly so the dog knows exactly what you have and is eager to get it.

Best dog training treats

It may take a little time and effort to define your dog’s treat hierarchy. You’ll know which treats your dog like best by how quickly they respond during your training games. There’s no universal “best” dog training treats. It’s up to your dog, and you, to discover what works for your team.

Shake up your dog training routine

Both dogs and people are creatures of habit. To keep training games fun for both of you, it’s a good idea to shake up your dog training routine.

Even if you’re working on a specific behavior, you can find ways to make it different and more interesting. Simple variations can change the dynamic.

Always the same

In AKC Novice Obedience competition there are exactly eight exercises. It’s the same eight behaviors, in the exact same order, in every single AKC Obedience Competition. It doesn’t change, the order doesn’t vary. It is what it is. And in our classes, we never, ever practice or teach it that way.

Dogs aren’t stupid. If you practice the same thing the same way every time, they don’t just learn the routine. They know what’s coming and jump ahead to the end. They’re awesome that way – wanting to save you the time and trouble of doing all the fussy in-between bits.

In competition, that’s a problem. It’s all the fussy bits that matter.

For example

Let’s say you’re doing the Figure 8 heeling. If you’ve only practiced as it’s done in competition, your dog knows exactly how it works. So your dog isn’t actually heeling, they’re doing a Figure 8 pattern. When the judge says “Halt!,” if your dog’s not watching you, they may be merrily heeling along and not notice you stopped. Until it’s too late and the judge is deducting points.

It’s easily fixed. Instead of just two cones to heel around in practice, use three. Or four. Or five. Go any which way, without a plan, and keep your dog’s attention. It’s more interesting for both of you. And it improves your heeling.

Just for fun

Even if you never intend to enter an obedience competition, the around-the-cones heeling, or loose-lead walking, is good practice. We call it “noodling” and you just walk randomly in circles, zig-zags, and loop-de-loops. You can even throw in a few backward and side steps.

If you’re out and about, put some interest in your walks. Use trees to do Figure 8s around. Or, if you’re an urban dweller, street lights or garbage cans work, too. The point is to instill some variety, add some interest, and keep both of you from falling into a rut.

As Ralph Waldo Emerson said: “A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds, adored by little statesmen and philosophers and divines. With consistency a great soul has simply nothing to do.”

Be unpredictable in your dog training routine. It’ll be more fun for you and your dog.