Category: Dog Training Games

Dog Training Game ideas and instructions.

How to achieve stress-free car rides with dogs

Do you dread having to take your dog anywhere? Does your dog’s car anxiety stress you out, too? 

Over the past year, most of us have been spending more time at home. We’ve haven’t been going much of anywhere, and neither have our dogs.

Our dogs familiarity with travel and car rides has lessened, and even those dogs who were accustomed to going places and doing things may now get nervous.

Name of the game

Booker and Tango are accustomed to the car and going places.
Pre-pandemic, Booker and Tango frequently rode in the car with Fran to trials and on road trips.

Familiarity is the key. Dogs, like us, get nervous in unfamiliar situations. Car rides with dogs qualify, especially if the only place the dog goes is scary.

Think about it from the dog’s perspective. If the only time he/she gets in the car is to go someplace where scary and/or painful things happen, you’d hate the car, too. Veterinary care and grooming are both necessary for our dogs, but neither is fun for the dog. Hope and Fran knew when they got puppies that as grown-up dogs they would be spending a lot of time in the car – going to obedience, rally and agility trials as well as on road trips, so they translated their crate training from the house to the car.

To turn things around and achieve stress-free car rides, start slowly, from the beginning.

Make it fun

Start where your dog’s anxiety begins. If he/she is nervous getting near the car, walk him her around the car, chattering calmly to your dog and delivering treats. Or play with a favorite toy near the car. Open and close the doors, all the while playing or rewarding for calm behavior. 

Don’t force the dog to get closer, let them take it at their own pace. Coddling isn’t required – it’s not okay to be scared. Speak calmly and encourage exploration, but don’t force it and try not to get frustrated. You know there’s nothing to worry about. The task is to convince your dog that’s true.

Step by step

Like all 2-Minute training games, after a couple of minutes, you’re done for the session. You can come back to it later, but give your dog time to absorb the fact that he/she had fun near the big, scary, noisy thing.

When your dog is fine around the car, have him/her get in it. Again, give treats or play with a toy for a couple minutes. Reinforce for your dog that the car is a positive place.

When your dog can enjoy the treats or toy in the car, hook him/her up to whatever restraint you use in the car and have another play session. At this point, if you have another person who can help, one of you get in the driver’s seat while the other plays with, or gives treats to your dog.

Noisy scary

The next step is to have the dog in the car and turn on the engine. Make sure you’re outside, or the garage door is wide open to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Play or treat for a couple minutes. If you don’t have a helper, give your dog a treat-filled toy. Use a high-value food stuffed in the toy – peanut butter or spray cheese work well for most dogs. 

If your dog is able to focus on his/her chew or treat toy, you’re well on your way to stress-free car rides with your dog. Take a short ride around the block and back home. As you’re able to take your dog in the car for longer periods, try going to a park or somewhere dog-friendly and playing a fun training game as we discussed in the post, “Take it on the road …”

Building on success

Stay at whatever step as long as you need to. If your dog is too nervous to take treats or play, stay there until she gets more comfortable. A nervous glance, then back to the game is fine. Rejecting the treats/toy due to nerves means your dog has reached his/her limit and you may even need to go back a step.

When you are able to progress to actual trips, be sure you go fun places where nothing bad happens. Take your dog to a park and go for a walk. Or a pet shop and let him/her choose a new toy. Then straight home.

Accentuate the positive

You can replace anxiety with anticipation if you teach your dog, step by step, that there’s nothing to worry about. As your dog gets used to new things, they’re less scary. If you make car rides routine fun, you’ll have stress-free car rides with your dog.

Start training dog tricks with target practice

Are you intrigued by the idea of training dog tricks and even, possibly going for that Trick Dog title? We hope you are.

Last week we talked about the reasons to do dog trick training: https://2-minute-trainer.com/2020/12/18/dog-trick-training-is-not-only-fun-it-strengthens-the-bond-with-your-dog/

Where do you start? It’s one thing to read a list of tricks and think “my dog could do that,” and another to teach your dog how! 

You and your dog communicate without language. You know particular sounds your dog makes mean something. We all recognize when our dogs act a certain way, they’re trying to tell us something. And we each know our own dogs’ unique traits.

Opening a channel

Sharing a language would really help, wouldn’t it? A first step in creating that training language between you and your dog is to train a basic behavior that will be a common theme for many of the tricks you can train.

One of the most useful is target training your dog. It’s easy, it takes almost no time, and it’s something your dog will recognize and relate to regardless of where you are or what game you’re playing. We use it for training in all of the dog sports for competition. 

Get started with a target

First you’ll need an actual, physical target. We use the white plastic lids from food containers: whipped butter, sour cream, ricotta cheese, etc. We wish ice cream lids were plastic, but they’re not so they don’t hold up.

Torque (French Bulldog) is touching the target with his nose - he'll get a reward for that! Target training is one of the first steps in dog trick training.

Get your target and some treats. Put the target on the floor and if your dog reacts to it in any way, put a treat on the target. If he/she looks at it, sniffs it, licks it, paws at it, any reaction gets a treat. Be sure to put the treat on the target – we’re building value in the “thing.” Don’t hand your dog the treat – he/she already thinks you’re wonderful.  

The actual behavior you really want is for your dog to touch the target with her/his nose. We’ll get picky about that after your dog realizes that the target has value. For now, any interest in the target gets a treat. Five times. Then pick up the target. 

Control the target

It’s important that the dog doesn’t have access to the target when you’re not paying attention. If your dog touches it, and you’re not there to reward the touch, all the progress you’ve made is lost and the target loses value. So if the phone rings, or you have to grab more treats, be sure to pick up the target.

Once your dog catches on to the game, and it shouldn’t take long, you can start changing it up a little. Only reward when the dog’s nose touches the target – stop rewarding for paw touches or looks. Move the target around and see if your dog will run to it. You can even have more than one target and play with your dog moving between them. This is easier if you also have more than one person, or else you’ll be running back and forth with your dog!

Most people are amazed at how easy training dog tricks is. We’re not sure if it’s really easy, or if we have so much fun doing it, we don’t notice. Introducing the target only takes a few minutes. In almost no time, your dog will adore the game and know the “touch” or “target” trick. Training dog tricks really is just this simple.

Target love is deep

Once your dog knows the target game, he/she may find them places you may not expect. Hope’s first French Bulldog, Dax, adored her targets. Her first competition in agility was at an indoor soccer facility. And there were lots of round, white circles on the turf. She checked out quite a few of them! Good girl!

More recently, Hope used the target to introduce Torque to a new trick – “Hide.” She draped a throw over a portable table a few inches above the floor. She tucked the target underneath. Torque was in a “sit, stay,” and watching the whole procedure. He recognized the target right away and was raring to go. When Hope said “Go (his release word) hide!” Torque dashed under the table, touched the target, turned around, laid down, and stuck his face out under the throw. And just like that, Torque started his “Hide!” trick. (See last week’s post!)

Teach the target

We know it won’t take long to teach your dog to “target.” Let us know how it goes! We’re happy to answer questions, and we love hearing about the progress you and your dog are making with your 2-Minute dog training games!

Dog trick training – how to & why!

Why do dog trick training?

So many reasons!

  • It’s fun
  • Grows your dog’s understanding and vocabulary
  • Challenges both you and your dog to learn new skills
  • Deepens your bond with your dog
  • Prevents boredom
  • Provides an activity when you can’t get outside
  • Lets you give your dog focused attention in a short amount of time
  • Makes great videos and memories

Dog “tricks” or behaviors can be anything. Many years ago, it was almost a cliche that the dog went out to fetch the paper every morning. Of course most dogs didn’t really do it, but it was a trick that everyone thought their dog could do.

A cute new trick Torque is learning is "hide."

And there’s always something new to try! Hope and Torque just started working on “Hide!” She draped a blanket over a portable folding table, and put a target under the table. Torque started at normal heel position, and when he got his release cue, he charged right under that blanket to find the target. Click and reward! 

The cutest part was when he turned around and was peeking under the blanket. That’s another benefit of dog trick training – they’re so incredibly cute!

Of course we don’t really think that Torque knows “Hide” after only one session. We’ll see what happens when we try it again. We’ll record next time so you can follow along on his progress. Just like we’ve been sharing Tango’s learning to “Go Bowling.” 

You and your dog can do it

When you and your dog are familiar with the fundamentals (see Book 1: Clicker and Place), you can expand your dog’s repertoire to include any trick or behavior that you can imagine and your dog can physically perform. Lately we’ve seen quite a few videos of skate-boarding dogs. If that’s something you’d like your dog to do, go for it. Thousands of YouTube views await your awesome dog!

Going viral might be fun and profitable, but it’s not predictable. What every single dog can achieve, however, is a “Trick Dog” title. From home. Via video. 

It’s true. You don’t have to leave your dog’s comfortable training space. To earn an American Kennel Club Trick dog title, all you have to do is have your dog perform 10 tricks, each one twice, on video. And, since you’re interested in dog trick training, we’d even bet that your dog already knows a few of the Novice Level tricks, which include things like: 

  • Speak
  • Crawl
  • Fetch
  • Get a named object
  • Get in a box
  • Climb onto a platform or step
  • High five
  • Hold it
  • Jump through a hoop or over a bar
  • Kiss
  • Shake
  • Spin
  • Touch

There are more, but that gives you a good idea of the level of difficulty for the first level of dog trick training. As you progress through the five levels, the difficulty increases – but as you progress, so does your ability and your dog’s prowess!

Dog trick training

 
Of course your video does need to be evaluated, and you need to know someone who can do it. Fortunately, you do! Hope is an AKC CGC and Trick Dog Evaluator, as well as a S.T.A.R. Puppy instructor. If you’re interested in pursuing Trick Dog titles for you and your dog, just shoot us an email (trainers@2-Minute-Trainer.com) and we’ll get you started!

Loose leash dog walking – curing the pull

Want to cure your dog of pulling on leash? Would you love to enjoy loose leash dog walking? It’s easier than you think. Stop giving your dog so much information.

Too much information

Think about it. If there is constant pressure on your dog’s collar (or harness), he or she has absolutely no reason to look for you, pay attention to you, or check on your whereabouts. Your dog knows exactly where you are and what you’re doing without a glance. You are, reliably, at the other end of the pressure.

That’s just one of the reasons retractable leashes are a bad idea. There is always, by design, pressure on the dog’s collar or harness. There’s no way to avoid it, unless the retractable’s lock is deployed. And if the lock’s always deployed, you’re just carrying a leash that’s huge, awkward, and heavy. Ditch those retractable leashes!

Keep some things to yourself

If, on the other hand, your dog isn’t getting any feedback from the leash, he or she will “check in” to see where you are and what you’re doing. And, if every check-in is rewarded, chances are your dog will do it more often. It doesn’t have to be a big thing. A simple “good boy,” or tiny treat is just fine. 

In this case treats would be better, because your dog has to come to you to get the cookie. We know it’s a natural reaction to meet your dog halfway to deliver the treat, but don’t. Let your dog come all the way back to you for the reward. It teaches your dog so many positive things. You’re the primary source for all good things. Staying closer to you means less distance to cover for treats. It doesn’t take much effort to get a reward. 

Breaking the pulling habit

If loose leash dog walking seems beyond your reach, take it in small steps. However long your dog’s been pulling, it may take equally long to break the habit. 

All dog walks can’t be training walks. There are lots of different kinds of walks with your dog: exercise walks, potty walks, training walks, gotta get out of the house walks. And training works best if that particular walk is short, focused on training, and no other behavior is allowed (including pee breaks!). To signal a training walk, you may want to have a particular outfit for yourself, and your dog, that lets him/her know what’s going on. Dogs do know the difference when you put on the jacket with all the pockets, or he gets to wear a different collar. 

Start right with a loose leash

When you have your dog hooked up on leash, some treats in your pocket, and a training walk on the schedule, have a plan. You’re probably not going to get much of anywhere the first session, if you even manage to get outside. 

Loose leash walking has not yet been attained.

Put on the leash. If it stays slack, give a reward. If you take a step and the leash tightens, stop. Don’t say anything. If your dog is behaving like a pulling fool at the end of the leash, ignore it. Stay quiet. At some point, your dog will realize that things aren’t going according to (his) plan. This is the moment that he may look at you. If he does, you’re allowed to say “Good Fido!” (Use your dog’s name, not Fido.) If he comes toward you, let him see you have a yummy treat in your hand. And he has to come all the way to you to get it. 

When your dog is close to you and the leash is slack, try taking a step or two. As soon as the leash tightens, stop. Wait for your dog to acknowledge you and come to you.

Remember – we said you wouldn’t be getting very far on this “walk.”

Quick on the uptake

Dogs are pretty smart. As soon as your dog figures out that you really mean it – that pulling isn’t going to be allowed any more, he/she will get on board. Every time you have a training walk, your dog will remember sooner, react faster, and come more quickly. They have to be convinced you’re serious. So be serious about the behavior. It will open up so many more possibilities for having fun on loose-leash walking with your dog. For more fun games to speed you on your way to loose leash walking with your dog, check out Book 3: Let’s Go For a Walk!

Training games make great dog pictures

Want to take great dog pictures? 

Turn “posing” into a training game!

Torque does not like having his picture taken.

If, like us, you have a dog that turns away every time a camera (or phone) is pointed at him, you know it can be challenging to get great pictures. Especially if, like ours, your dog is a dark color. 

We don’t know why Torque tends to be camera-shy, but he is. So when we want to take his pictures, we make it part of a training game. That boy is all-in for any training game!

Move around

When starting the “pose” game, the first step is to have your dog stay in place while you’re moving around. Ask for your dog’s best position (sit or stay). Grab a handful of treats. Then start moving! As long as your dog stays in place, go back and reward every couple of steps. When you run out of treats, use your dog’s release word, and done!

When your dog is comfortable with your movement, try carrying your phone or camera with you while you move. Fake (or really) take pictures, stopping your motion, clicking the shutter, then moving again. 

Get down

Down at Booker's level - a great picture.

We’re really short people, but we’re still much taller than our dogs. We’re even taller than our friends’ big dogs. The result is that most dog pictures are taken from above, and don’t show dogs’ real expressions. 

The answer is to get down to a level even with your dog’s head. Then your dog’s face will show a natural expression – which is the one you know, love, and want to keep forever in good pictures. 

The problem with getting down at your dog’s level is that it’s an unusual move for most people, and your dog won’t understand what you’re doing. If your dog is like ours, they’ll see it as an invitation to get up in your face and either lick, play, or have a “nutsy puppy” episode.

If this happens for you, make getting down to dog level part of the motion sessions. Your movement doesn’t have to be all standing up. Try crawling, kneeling, squatting and reward your dog for staying in place. 

Look at everything

Aside from dogs not staying still, the biggest obstacle to getting a good portrait of your dog is clutter. Before you ask your dog for the sit or down, check the area you want to take the portrait. Frame it in your phone and look at every part of the area. Are there verticals that will give your dog antennae? Is there something bright or distracting in the background? Either shift where you’re working, or remove the object.

Lastly and most delicately

People with girl dogs don’t have this particular issue, but for those of us with boys – no one wants to see your dog’s boy bits in every picture. Three-quarter poses are excellent for using front legs as visual blocks. Over the years, with mostly boy dogs, we’ve become adept at hiding bits and we know you can, too!