Dog Training Games Archives - Page 11 of 13

Dog training is teamwork

At the bottom of this post you’ll find links to the winning performances of the AKC Virtual Trick Dog competitions for the last two years. What’s most notable isn’t that the dogs are wonderful, which they are. It’s that the dogs are doing pretty normal tricks. And not necessarily getting them right on the first try. What’s spectacular is the narrative their people put together. It lets them show off their wonderful dogs doing fun stuff. Because good dog training is teamwork.

Reward for right

The other thing we noticed is that the people stopped to reward when their dogs did well. Even while recording a competition video. Because letting your dog know when they’re “right” has to be different from being “wrong.” It’s a lesson that’s hard for many of our students. We wish we had a nickel for every time we said: “Getting it right should be rewarded.” At every opportunity. Even for behaviors your dog’s known since he/she was a puppy. (Here’s more about rewards.)

Most of the tricks the dogs perform in these videos are variations on the themes of “get on it,” “get over it,” “go through it,” “carry it,” and “put it over there.” All of them are within your dog’s capabilities. The dogs don’t do the narrated routines on their own. Their people are there, showing them what to do every step of the way. And the dogs’ tails are wagging throughout. These dogs are having a good time.

Your dog training team

Dogs doing things and being rewarded are featured in the Trick Dog Championship videos. — Torque is carrying a cardboard tube.

You can see the dogs watching their people throughout. They’re anticipating having more fun. And treats. But they’re not harassing the “cookie hand.” These dogs know that when they do what they should, they’ll be rewarded for it. These dogs aren’t dragging through their routines. They’re practically dancing from one trick station to the next.

It’s also worth noting that when the dogs don’t get it right the first time the only thing that happens is they get to try again. There’s no punishment. There’s just another chance to get it right. And be rewarded for it.

That’s the agreement we make with our dogs. When we get what we want, they get what they want. Mostly what they want is our attention. And treats. Dog training is all about the team. Playing fun games, teaching dogs how to make good decisions, having fun, and expanding their understanding.

Not robot dogs

Will your dog mess up? Sure. Everybody does. Some days are better than others. And there will be 2-Minute dog game sessions that are a mess from the start. Even those sessions have some value because it teaches us how to change gears and try something else.

It’s important that you’re easy on yourself and your dog. These top-winning Trick Dog competitors are ready to try again when their dogs miss the first try. They’re quick with the rewards when their dogs get it right. And they’re not afraid to show the world they and their dogs aren’t perfect. They’re proud to show off their amazing dogs.

https://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3ohttps://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3o 2021 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Miniature Poodle)

https://youtu.be/7zsO5IdLPBY 2022 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Australian Terrier)

Find It! Dog Game

The “Find It!” Dog Game hits all the right buttons for most dogs. They are, by nature, hunters. Sniffing for “prey” is something just about every dog does. It’s a part of their instinct to seek, even though our pets don’t have to worry about where the next meal is coming from. This is one instance where training really does use a behavior that’s natural for your dog!

Since this game encourages wandering and sniffing, most dogs love it and take to it like a duck to water. It’s a variation on “nose work” dog sports. In AKC Scent Work, “dogs search for cotton swabs saturated with the essential oils of Birch, Anise, Clove, and Cypress. The cotton swabs are hidden out of sight in a pre-determined search area, and the dog has to find them. Teamwork is necessary: when the dog finds the scent, he has to communicate the find to the handler, who calls it out to the judge.”

Any Scent Will Do

Torque is ready to play the "Find it!" dog game — Torque’s ready to play the “Find it!” dog game

Unless you’re planning on going into competition with your dog, you don’t have to use those scents. There are commercially-available scent-work kits, but you don’t need the “official” items to get started. In fact, Hope used plain old cotton rounds used for makeup, and some “unofficial” nutmeg essential oil to start playing the game with Torque.

He loved it right away. Like most dogs, Torque has an aggravating habit of sniffing anything and everything in the yard. Finding a game that lets him use that skill, instead of being discouraged from it, was heaven-on-earth to that dog. After all, dogs’ ability to discern odors is thousands of times better than ours. We can’t really know how dogs perceive the world by scent. But we can make the experience richer, useful, and fun for them.

Get Started

Any training game you play with your dog starts with familiarizing the “stuff.” In this case,put a couple drops of the oil on the cotton round. Then hold the round at your dog’s nose level, a few inches away. Unless your dog hates the scent, they will move forward to sniff the round. Dogs just can’t help themselves. They’re compelled to check out new things with their noses.

When your dog sniffs, click and reward, saying “Good Find It!” or whatever phrase you’re going to use. After a few repetitions, your dog will figure out his “job” is to sniff the thing. It’s probably one of the easiest games to teach – especially for dogs who love sniffing.

Hide and Seek

Once your dog associates the smelling with getting rewarded, you can try moving it around. At first, just alternate hands or move one or two steps. If your dog eagerly follows the round, you’re ready to move to the next phase of the game.

At first you’ll “hide” the cotton round in plain sight. If you have another person around, stand with your dog facing away from the area the scent will be hidden. Let your dog sniff it, click and reward, then give it to the other person to “hide.”

If your dog has shown a tendency to want to eat the cotton round, or take it into mouth, have the person put it under something porous enough for the dog to get the scent, like a basket. If you’re using a box, you may have to punch some holes in it at first for the dog to understand the game.

Once the round is hidden in plain sight, a few feet away, turn around with your dog and encourage them to “Find it!” When they do, click and reward.

Degree of Difficulty

As your dog understands the game and becomes more proficient, move the scent higher. Or put it in a covered container. “Containers” is one of the tests for dogs in Scent Work competition, and those are closed, plastic containers. Dogs’ noses are powerful enough to “Find It!” even if it’s buried, outdoors, or even in a vehicle. Scent Work is the basis for the work of law enforcement sniffer dogs. Different circumstances, different smells. But essentially the same kind of game.

If your dog is a sniffing prodigy, you’ll probably enjoy doing Scent Work in competition. There are several different organizations who hold trials. You can see what group is most active in your area and look for classes near you.

The “Find It!” game quickly becomes a favorite for most dogs and people. It’s using the dog’s natural instincts and turning it into a game you can play together. Expand the game to different smells, different places, and different elevations to keep it fresh and fun.

Freestyle dog training game

How do you make up new training games with your dog? Let your dog lead the way with the Freestyle dog training game.

The hardest thing about playing the Freestyle game is letting your dog take control. You don’t decide any part of the Freestyle dog training game, other than when to play and how long.

It goes like this: in a safe space, put out a few different objects and let your dog have fun. There are no “wrong” answers. The only thing you can do to guide your dog is stand next to or look at one of the objects. Anything the dog does is “clickable” as long as he/she isn’t trying to eat it or run off with it.

Boom game

Some dogs are more creative than others. Some dogs make up all kinds of games and behaviors and do things we never would have thought to teach them. Other dogs rely on known games and adapt them to new circumstances.

By observing what your dog does, the things he/she particularly likes, and what he/she does with them, you can develop new games.

Two of our most recent examples:

Booker playing his own Freestyle dog training game, "Boom!" — Booker playing his own Freestyle dog training game, “Boom!”

Boom! Dog training game. Booker (Fran’s 9-year-old Boston Terrier) loves knocking things over. Fran made note of it and developed his “Boom!” game. She puts out a series of soft, vertical objects (foam rollers, yoga mats, pool noodles stuffed onto dollar-store paper-towel holders). And Booker goes through the maze knocking them over one by one. By saying “Good Boom!” he’s learned the word and now will run over to “Boom!” any vertical object. Fortunately, he’s too little to apply the behavior to people.

Fran’s younger Boston, 3-year-old Simon, is a bit of an obsessive/compulsive personality. When he puts his toys away, he tries to stack them neatly. Especially empty tuna cans. He carried the tendency over into his Freestyle game, always trying to stack objects. So Fran picked up some little stacking bowls (did we mention the dollar store is one of our favorite places for dog training equipment?). She was right about his neatnik tendencies – in Simon’s very first “Stack It!” session he caught on. Fran’s only played “Stack It!” with him a couple of times so far. And he doesn’t yet understand multiple bowls can go in the same stack, not just two. He’ll get there.

Let your dog show the way

Freestyle sessions are also great when you’re out of ideas and don’t feel like playing an old standard. It’s also a great game when you’re tired. All you have to do is stand there, click, reward, and say “good.”

The hardest thing about Freestyle is resisting the temptation to guide your dog. Our first exposure to dog training was with a trainer who told us “Never let a dog make a decision!” (See our article, “Follow your dog’s Lead.”) When, in reality, we strive to do exactly the opposite. Training is all about teaching dogs to make good decisions.

Dog Training Game: Drop it!

“Drop it!” is a command, like “Come!” that could potentially save your dog.

It happened to us, quite a few years ago. One of our neighbors made profligate use of rodent poison sticks in his yard. Not realizing, or not caring, that wildlife would carry the sticks throughout the neighborhood. Hope’s first French Bulldog, Dax, got hold of one. If she hadn’t known “Drop it!” she may have died that day.

“Drop it!” is almost as difficult as it is important. It requires the dog to give up something of value.

How much they care

The value of the item may be very temporary – they saw something interesting and just grabbed it in passing. Those are the easier ones for “Drop it!”

In the middle ground are things that dogs snatch because you’re interested in them. These are the things, like socks, that your dog sees you interact with. Your dog may not actually be all that fascinated with it, but because it smells like you, and you are “playing” with it, it has value.

The third level is the most difficult to get your dog to “Drop It!” These are the things that your dog adores, wants to keep, and is extremely reluctant to lose possession over.

Level of importance

The mechanics of “Drop it!” are pretty simple. You’ll “trade” something for the object your dog is holding. Ideally, what you’re offering is “better” than what the dog has, so your dog always thinks they’re “trading up.”

Just like your dog’s degree of interest in the snagged item, “Drop it!” works with a hierarchy of value. For a minimally-important item, your dog may trade it for a low-value treat, like a piece of kibble. For the highest-value objects, the ante has to be higher. Whatever your dog values most should be in your toolkit for this game. The better the “trade” item, the more likely your dog will be to “Drop It!”

That being said, the success of these games rely on being able to control the situation and the circumstances. Fran’s Boston Terriers are amazing at “Drop It!” She played the trading game early and often, and both Simon and Booker know the fun isn’t over when they obey.

Torque is reluctant to play "Drop it" with his ball. — Torque is reluctant to play “Drop it” with his ball.

Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, is a harder case. He’s great at “Drop It!” for almost anything. And the exceptional things are, in order of importance: 1: balls 2: balls 3: balls. The only thing as good as a ball, for Torque, is another ball.

Trade goods

If your dog is like Torque, have two or more of the exact same item. Torque learned to “Drop It!” only when he found out that what he was getting in exchange for his precious ball was another precious ball. With the added bonus of being able to chase it down. He will now play “fetch” – as long as there are multiple balls in play.

Trading is a valid way of getting your dog to release something. And if you’re starting from scratch, it’ll work like a charm.

But what if you’re trying to change an already-established pattern? Like stealing socks?

Make it boring

If it’s something you can get hold of, do so. And don’t let go. But also don’t let it turn into a game of tug. If your dog starts to back up and tug, move with your dog, so there’s no tension on the object. When Torque was learning this command, he would back up all around the house, Hope hanging onto the toy. She didn’t allow any tension – if he moved, she moved with him. It was a frustrating non-game for Torque, but he learned.

If you can, hold the object with one hand on either side of the dog’s mouth so your dog can’t change grip. You can even push it slightly, so it’s even further into your dog’s mouth. Most dogs don’t like that very much.

While we make every effort to avoid using aversive methods, getting a reliable “Drop It!” command is worth bending the rules a little bit to keep our dogs safe. There’s no punishment, it’s just refusing to engage in the dog’s game. While they may not like it, it’s harmless. And we guarantee that the trip to the emergency vet, endoscopy, and the subsequent bill are things that you, and your dog, will like even less.

Put Your Toys Away Dog Training Game

In last week’s tip we mentioned that Tango’s favorite training game is “Put Your Toys Away.” We were planning to provide a link to the game instructions – but then realized we’d never written about it. We’ve done videos of the game, but never explained how to teach it – until now.

Put Your Toys Away has lots of parts

Put Your Toys Away is a lot of different dog training games all strung together. And, as with all 2-Minute-Dog-Training games, each part is a different game. It’s only when your dog is getting parts “right” a majority of the time that you string them together.

“Toys” don’t have to be toys

Tango and the Put Your Toys Away dog training game — Tango, putting his toys away

You also have to think about the objects you use for the game. It has to be a lower-value (to the dog) object that the dog is willing to give up. If you have a tennis-ball obsessed dog, don’t use tennis balls. If your dog adores plush toys, use vinyl, etc.

Tango is the only one of our dogs who uses actual dog toys for the game. For one reason – he doesn’t care about dog toys. Never has. And the long-neglected toys we got for him before we knew that are too small for the other dogs to play with. They wouldn’t last a minute.

All four of our dogs play “Put your toys away,” but use different objects instead of toys. Booker comes closest with foam building blocks. Torque uses cardboard tubes and toy tambourines from the dollar store. Simon (a.k.a. The Destroyer) has tuna fish cans (with tape around the edge), ring molds, and plastic food containers.

Here’s Booker putting his blocks away.

Breaking it down

Dissect “Put Your Toys Away” into its component parts and treat each one like a separate game:

Pick up a toy (object).
Hold the toy.
Carry the toy someplace.
Go to the bin, (box, washtub).
Drop the toy in the bin.
Leave it.
Return to the toy pile.
Repeat.

If you try to string together the entire list, your dog may get confused about what you’re actually asking for. You don’t have to play the games in this order. Each part can be a separate game, played in any order.

Never assume

Even if your dog knows how to “take” something from you, it’s a good idea to start from the beginning. Taking an object from your hand is different from picking it up off the floor. If you want to hand your dog individual objects and build the behavior that way – that’s perfectly fine. It’s a game for you and your dog to play together and you can make up the rules. Keep the rules of the game consistent for your dog, but play however you want!

One variation we’ve tried in the last couple of weeks, just to refresh the game, is to actually toss the object and have the dog chase it, then put it away. It’s a variation on the theme that lends more energy than picking up toys from a static pile.

Let us know!

When you’re familiar with the 2-Minute-Trainer method, turning each step into a game should be fairly simple. If there are bits you’re not sure of, be sure to let us know! If we hear that a particular segment is proving more difficult for dogs and/or people, we’ll provide step-by-step guidance.

This is a game that every dog/person team can play to suit themselves. Whatever objects, receptacles, distances, motions you use, it’s fine. And we’d love to see video of you and your dogs in action! Please post anytime on our Facebook page!

Dog Training Game: Back Up!

At first thought, teaching the dog training game “Back Up!” may not seem useful. Trust us, it is.

When your dog knows “Back up!” you’ll look forward to seeing the sign in Rally Obedience competition. And you’ll have a way of getting your dog(s) to move out of doorways, narrow hallways, and generally obstructing your path. It’s particularly fun when you use the command “Beep! Beep! Beep!” to sound like a truck in reverse.

Can you tell we love “Back up!?”

Teaching your dog “Back Up!”

There are actually several different ways to teach “Back Up!” We use all of them, randomly. Different visual “pictures” and games teaching the same concept will further broaden your dog’s understanding. They’ll truly understand the word. It’s also an impressive behavior to show off your dog’s skills. Imagine saying “Beep! Beep! Beep!” and your dog backs up across the room. Showy!

Use a wall

This is about as simple as it gets. Stand at a right angle to the longest wall in the house. The majority of the length should be behind you. Get your dog between you and the wall. If you follow traditional heel position, that should be your left side. Take a small step forward, so your dog is standing. Hold a treat in your left hand just above your dog’s head and take a tiny step back with your left foot, keeping your hand steady above your dog’s nose. They should be looking up at the treat by this time and should move back a tiny bit with you. If he/she does, say “Good Back!” (or Good Beep!) and reward.

Booker is thinking about doing the dog training game "Back up" behavior. — Booker is thinking about doing the “Back up.”

There is a strong possibility that your dog will sit rather than back up. It’s a truism in dog training that “when the butt goes down, the head comes up.” If that happens, lower the cookie to the dog’s eye level and try again. Try not to let your dog have the treat until you get some backward motion.

Chances are you won’t get more than a step or two the first time. Most dogs don’t have a natural backing up behavior, so you’re starting from scratch. Try a little bit every day, and you’ll soon be backing up the entire length of the hall. Then you can start randomizing the reward, stepping away from the dog, and teaching the dog to back up on his/her own.

All by themselves

This game is our favorite way to teach “Back Up!,” although the wall method is much more common. This one is almost like playing “catch the cookie” with your dog.

Sit on the floor with a bowl of treats. Your dog should be sitting or standing facing you. (If your dog is harassing you for the bowl of treats, revisit the game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” in Book 4, Impulse Control) Say “Beep!” and toss a treat between your dog’s front legs. When your dog moves back, even the tiniest bit, to get the treat, say “Good Beep!” and throw another treat a bit further away from you, between your dog’s legs if you can.

Torque backs up when Hope throws a treat between his front legs.

If your aim is terrible, like ours is, don’t worry about it. You’ll get it right often enough that your dog will learn anyway. And they’ll love playing, because of all the extra cookies. When your dog gets the idea and “Beeps!” across the room, get him/her back to play again with a “Touch!” game.

When your dog starts to get it, change your position. Instead of sitting on the floor, kneel or stand up. Move around. If you’re like us, your aim will suffer, but your dog will clean up all your errant tosses.

In their face

Some people teach “Back Up!” by stepping into their dogs and crowding them into backing up. We don’t advocate this method. It can be intimidating for many dogs, instead of a game. If you want to try it, the dog training game version treats it as one of several directions to “dance” with your dog. Facing each other, take a step to the side. If your dog follows you, praise, call it “Good Side!” (or whatever word you want to use). Take a step back (you) and praise and reward if your dog steps with you (his/her Forward!). Take steps to both sides, forward, and back. It will convey to your dog that you’re moving together, not trying to make him/her back down.

Back Up! Everywhere!

As with all new behaviors and games, when you think your dog has a good understanding, play the game in as many different places as you’re able. It helps your dog solidify the behavior.

We’ve found that the Back Up! tends to really impress people unfamiliar with dog training. They can’t believe that dogs will do it on command. And it’s really a show-stopper to use “Beep! Beep!” Have more fun with your dog!

Looky-Loo Part II (Dog Training Game)

Looky-Loo is a dog training game that reminds your dog that the two of you are a team, doing things together. It lets dogs be dogs – investigating their surroundings, being aware of the world around them. While always maintaining a “check in” mentality. The fun continues as long as your dog remembers to “check in” with you.

This applies whether you’re out for a meandering walk around the neighborhood or running a competition agility course. The invisible connection between you and your dog is an important part of your relationship. In unfamiliar circumstances, or if your dog’s unsure, your demeanor when your dog checks in will help determine how interactions proceed.

Next step in Looky-Loo

In the first phase of Looky-Loo you held a toy or other object behind your back, showed it to your dog briefly while saying “Look!”, and then hide it again. When your dog looked at your face, rather than for the toy, you clicked and rewarded. After just a few sessions, your dog should realize the object of the game is to focus on you.

The next step is to keep the toy visible. Only say “Look!” once when you first show it. If it’s a particularly desirable toy, it may take a while until your dog remembers to focus on you. As soon as they do, click and reward. The reward can be a treat or even a game of tug with the “Look!” toy. Focusing on you has to be the most rewarding part of the game. The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you, not at the object.

Timing is important

The click-and-treat comes when the dog looks at you. That’s the goal of “Looky-Loo.” Getting your dog to return his/her gaze to you after something distracting happens. (See last week’s tip: Looky-Loo Part 1.) It’s not the end of the world if your timing is off sometimes. It happens to everyone. When it does, and it will, give your dog an “Oops! Cookie” and reset the game. Just keep the goal in mind and watch your dog’s eyes.

Dogs learn through the timing and placement of rewards. Some people, playing attention games, even start holding the treat by their noses to bring their dog’s focus up to their eyes. That lures the dog to look at their face, rather than rewarding the dog’s decision to watch. “Watch me!” is a phrase you might hear a lot in dog training classes. It works sometimes. It doesn’t teach the dog that watching is more interesting than that speck on the floor.

Upping the game

The next step, before you take “Looky-Loo” out on the road, is to get your dog to look at distractions in the environment and still choose to look at you. Rather than holding the object, it will be on the floor where you’ll be passing by it.

It’s time to move the game someplace where you have space to move a few steps and place a distracting object to the side. Place an object that isn’t very interesting to your dog on the floor. Holding the dog’s leash, try to walk by the object, saying “Look!” Keep walking, and when your dog’s focus is on you, click and reward. If the dog’s attention stays on the object, go back to the last step, using the same object. Your dog will let you know when they’re ready to move on, or if it’s not quite time.

Fran and Simon have a variation of Looky-Loo:

Moving on

Remember, there’s no timetable for dog training games. Dogs learn at their own pace. And some games go more slowly than others. If your dog is extremely curious, this may be a tough one for them.

The next steps would be to change the object used as a distraction. We started our Looky-Loo dog training game with something that the dog didn’t really care about. Make the distraction more desirable in gradual steps. Work your way up to things that your dog loves. Can your dog still “Look!” and come back to you? What if it was a favorite toy? Or a bowl of food?

Taking it to the streets

When your dog is fairly proficient at “Look!” and focus, it’s time to move the game to places you may actually need it. When you do, start the game with a quick reminder of where the game began – hide an object behind your back, show it briefly while saying “Look!” and hide it again. Just a quick refresher helps the dog know what game you’re playing.

Simon is distracted - we need to take a step back in the Looky-Loo dog training game. — Time to go back a step in the “Looky-Loo” dog training game…

When you’re out and about, you can make anything the subject of “Looky-Lou!” Just tell your dog to “Look!,” whether it’s a squirrel, a person walking, or a dog being walked in the distance. When your dog looks back at you, click and reward.

Be ready

Your dog is learning to gauge their reaction to “stuff” by your response. Stay calm, tell your dog to “Look!” and wait for them to pay attention to you. Be sure you’re watching your dog’s face so you can tell the exact moment their focus is on you. Be more excited by your dog watching you! That’s the tremendous accomplishment – celebrate it with enthusiasm!

Dog Training Game: Looky-Loo (Part 1)

Dogs are nosy creatures. Some are almost obsessive in their curiosity about what’s “over there.” You can indulge your dog and still maintain focus with the dog training game Looky-Loo!

Torque can play "Looky-Loo" and look at things he hears, then turn his focus back to Hope. — Torque can look around at things he hears, then turn his focus back to Hope.

Realistically, none of us lives on a solitary island. Our dogs, whether they’re just walking around the neighborhood or competing in dog sports, need to be familiar with their surroundings. That means being able to look around, take in the sights and smells around them, be calm, and get on with what they were doing. (We talked about this earlier, in our article, “Be Better Than Squirrel!“)

That’s the crucial part. The dog has to take in his/her surroundings without reacting negatively. Seeing, recognizing, and bringing attention back to “business.”

Looky-Loo set up

Like all 2-Minute-Training games, it starts in a quiet space with no distractions. Dogs have to learn how to play this new game before introducing distractions.

What you’ll need:

Training timer
Your dog on leash and collar
Treats
An object / toy your dog likes, small enough for you to hold easily
Clicker (Optional, but recommended

Playing Looky-Loo:

Session 1 – Set your timer for 2 Minutes. Turn it on. Stand with your dog close in front of you. If your dog doesn’t have a decent “stay,” step on the leash. (Note: the leash should be long enough so your dog can stand up, sit, lie down, or move around, but not leave the area). Facing your dog, hold the toy in one hand behind your back. Swing the toy out so your dog can see it, say “Look!” and hide the toy behind you again. If your dog looks at your face, click and reward.

That’s it for the first session. You’re teaching your dog to look, then return focus to you. Looking at you is the goal of the game. Imagine how much better life would be if your dog looked at that squirrel, then back at you? And then calmly continued on your walk?

Keep in mind:

Some dogs will understand and start immediately looking at you after glancing at the object. Other dogs may take a while to get it. That’s okay. Stay at the first step as long as you need to for reliable understanding. When your dog gets it right about 75 percent of the time, then it’s time to move on.

Your dog glancing at the “look” object is good. We want our dogs to see what’s around them. But it’s not the point of the game. Dogs look at stuff, especially moving stuff. We expect the dog to look at the toy when we show it.

The objective of the game is bringing the dog’s attention back to you after the toy disappears again. That’s when the click and reward come – when your dog’s eyes meet yours.

Next week: Looky-Loo Part II

What to do when your dog plays keep away

Puppies are notorious for playing keep away. They grab stuff off the ground and run off with it. Lots of dogs retain the habit. When your dog plays keep away it’s a bad thing – for everyone.

The puppy could have something toxic, or that he could choke on. And everyone’s first instinct is to grab whatever it is. Which can get you bitten, or cause the puppy to shy away from you when you chase him to retrieve the thing.

What’s the alternative?

The puppy we’ve been fostering since the beginning of July is notorious for hoarding sticks and rocks. It’s the first thing he does when he gets out the door. He checks out his stash and picks something to carry around and chew on.

All of his beloved “outside toys” are carefully inspected. He’s only allowed to keep rocks too large to swallow, and sticks that are thick and flexible. And none of them are allowed inside.

He knows this. Sometimes he’s reluctant to drop it, even when he wants to come back in the house. He’ll dash away from the door, an initial bout of keep away.

Avoiding the “keep away” game

Charging after a puppy who’s run off with contraband is never a good idea. The best way to catch a pup is to have them chase you. So the first game to try is “Catch Me If You Can” – run away calling the dog’s name.

Most can’t resist the chase, especially if you make it exciting. Yell, clap, run heavy so your shoes slap down. If you’re interesting enough, the puppy will even drop the contraband. They forget about the “thing” in the excitement of a new game. (Our 2-Minute Trainer Book 2: Come! includes detailed instructions for the “Catch Me If You Can” game.)

Distract them with play

Any game your dog loves to play should work as a good distraction. “Catch Me” is the most exciting, but it’s not the only arrow in the quiver. Our foster puppy’s favorite game is “Touch.”

A hand touch is a great behavior that can help when your dog plays keep away. — Simon is demonstrating the “Touch” game – great for when your dog plays keep away

We play “Touch” a lot with our dogs because it’s the easiest to use in any situation. All you need is you and some treats. It can be quiet and calm, or it can be active and exciting. That’s determined by you – how vigorously are you moving? How is your voice pitched? You don’t have to be loud – even a whisper can be exciting.

Practical application

When we want Mister foster puppy to drop the “thing” and come to us, we show him the palm of our hand and say “Touch!” He knows that every single touch earns him a treat. When he gets going he looks like a chicken bobbing for seed, shoving that muzzle into our hand.

It works. He forgets about that day’s rock, or stick, and comes running over to play his favorite game. Puppy loves playing, so he gets what he wants – a chance to play and treats. And we get what we want – the puppy comes to us.

Building the basis

You can start playing “Touch” today. Two minutes a day and it will become a valued part of your dog’s repertoire pretty quickly. How much your dog loves the game depends on you. Decide you love it. What could possibly be cuter than your dog sticking his face in your hand? Reward promptly, for every touch, with incredibly yummy treats. Make sure that your dog is really planting that muzzle in your palm. No waving the nose at your fingers! And the reward should be as close to your palm, and your dog’s muzzle, as possible. Your reward will be having a “go-to” game you can play anywhere.

We pull out the “Touch” game whenever our dogs are nervous. If we’re at the veterinarian’s office and they’re not sure, it’s a perfect time. Or anywhere they’ve never been before and they’re unsure.

It’s also a great game to distract your dog when they see something on a walk that’s completely caught their attention. It could be a squirrel, skunk, or even another dog that’s staring at them. When you need your dog to focus on you, it’s time to pull out your palm and get them facing a different direction.

Don’t grab and go

If you have a dog or puppy who’s a “snatch and run” criminal, whether it’s shoes in the house, or icky stuff outside, it is important to act quickly. Dogs seem to chew and swallow incredibly quickly when it’s something they know they shouldn’t have.

And it’s fighting your every instinct to not dash over, grab the dog, and do a finger sweep of their mouth. If you succumb to that temptation, your dog will learn to run away, hide the contraband, and avoid you at all costs.

Having a go-to game, like “Touch” will take the stress out of the situation. It’s a win/win. Your dog gets to play a game they love. And you get your dog to drop the thing.

Teach your dog “Sit to say hello!”

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if your dog would sit to say hello?

If you don’t think it’s possible, you’re probably not going to believe you can get there just by playing a little two-minute game with your dog. You may have to play it a couple of times a day for about a week. But it works and you can do it!

Easier to start fresh

Normal certainly looks different today than it did a couple of years ago. When life was “normal,” most dogs were exposed to at least a few different people on a regular basis. Friends and family would stop by, and dogs learned to take their presence in stride.

Since we’ve had pandemic restrictions on travel and visiting, many people’s and dogs’ lives are less social. If this applies to your situation, this is a great game to play with your dog. Be prepared for times when your circle expands.

Luckily, you can play the game without anybody else around. All you need is you and your dog. And treats. Lots of yummy treats. Mainly for the dog, but you probably deserve some, too!

Get your dog excited

The first step is to get your dog all excited. It may seem counter-intuitive. To teach your dog how to be controlled and calm, you would think you start there – controlled and calm. Logical, except for one thing. It doesn’t work. Starting calm doesn’t teach calm. (Now, this is different than teaching your dog to be calm when it’s just her and the family. That’s usually a more subdued starting point.”

When the doorbell rings, or someone comes in, chances are your dog will be excited. One of the charming things about dogs is how happy they are to see us – even if all we did was take out the trash. Your normal dog is going to be wildly happy to see whoever walks in the door. The objective is to get your dog to wiggle delightedly from a sitting position.

In our house, it doesn’t take much for chaos and mayhem to break out. For unknown reasons, knocking on the counter sets Booker off, barking and jumping around, ready for zoomies. If your dog has a similar trigger, use it. Celebrate it! Say silly things like “Yes, get crazy!” “That’s my nutsy puppy!” “Dog, you are one happy puppy!”

Okay, it’s loud. Now what?

Fran taught the dogs to sit and say hello. — The dogs are rewarded for sitting and saying “Hello!”

Once your dog is happy, excited, and you’re starting to think the neighbors will complain, reward your dog. Then be still. Don’t say anything. Don’t move. It’s like you’re playing “Red Light, Green Light” and the light turned red. Become a statue.

If your dog is like most, she won’t know what the heck happened. She will stop, look around, try to see what’s changed. And then, if she’s like most dogs, she’ll sit in front of you, puzzled. Reward! Good puppy! Nice “hello!”

Then do it again. If she didn’t sit, you can whisper the word, without moving. If she does, reward and start again!

Teaching “Hello!”

Achieving impulse control is one of the most difficult things for dogs to learn. By playing this reversed, doggy version of “Green Light, Red Light” you’re pairing the excitement of movement with its opposite. Using the word “Hello!” will associate it to the stillness of the sit.

A good portion of dog training is vocabulary building for our dogs. Once they understand what a word means, most dogs are happy to do it. If we teach them that “Hello!” means sit still, we automatically pair greetings with good behavior.