Category: behavior

You can’t teach dogs “don’t”

There’s no way to teach dogs “don’t” 

“Stop! Don’t do that!” When you say it in “Mom Voice,” most children will freeze and stare at you. Whatever they were caught doing stops immediately. Dogs? Not so much. It’s practically impossible to teach a dog “don’t. That’s the biggest difference between talking to a toddler and a dog. 

You can't teach dogs "don't," but you can teach them to do something else instead of jumping.

That doesn’t mean dogs get away with unacceptable behaviors. But when someone asks how to teach their dog “not to jump,” it’s the wrong question. A better, faster, easier approach is to give the dog something else to do instead of jumping on people. (We educated our cousin how to refocus her dog from jumping not long ago.)

Instead behaviors

Think about it. All of the successful things you’ve taught your dog, from potty-training to complex tricks, are teaching them what to do. Not what not to do. If you just thought “Wait! Potty training is teaching the dog not to eliminate in the house!” That’s how you think of it. In fact, what you’ve trained your dog is where they should eliminate. 

It’s the same for any other dog’s naughty behavior. We teach our dogs to “Sit!” as a response to a doorbell ringing or a knock on the door. They’re doing something, instead of “not” jumping.

For a while, we believed our dogs knew how to “Leave it!” It’s what we used when their noses poked into the wastebaskets, or they obsessed over the place the bunny dove under the gate. What we really taught our dogs was to refocus on us and get rewarded. Instead of the negative “stop that” behavior intended, we got a “look at me” behavior. That realization changed nothing. We still got what we wanted. Our dogs leave the thing alone. And we still say “Leave it!” because that’s what we’re all used to.

Call it whatever you want

Do the dogs understand the phrase “leave it?” No. They understand that when they hear those words there’s something they’re supposed to do. As long as you’re consistent with the words you attach to behaviors, it works. Like Humpty Dumpty in Alice in Wonderland: “When I use a word… it means just what I choose it to mean – neither more nor less.”

So although the “Leave it!” command is phrased as something “not” to do, there’s actually a positive “something” to do attached. If there’s anything your dog does that you wish they wouldn’t, the most effective way to change the behavior is to give them something to do instead.

Works for all kinds of things

Changing how you phrase things gives you the ability to translate it into “dog.” Since you can’t teach your dogs don’t pull on the leash, instead train them to walk at your side. Rather than “stop counter-surfing,” teach them where their “Place!” is in the kitchen. Substitute “get your toy” for barging into someone coming in the door. 

Think about the things your dog does that annoy you. Be honest – every dog is occasionally annoying. Picture what you’d like your dog to do in those circumstances. Then you’ll have a plan to turn things around. What would you like him/her to be doing instead? And how can you make a training game out of it? Now you’re thinking like a dog trainer.

Electronic fences are dog tasers

Ever been tempted by the ads for in-ground electric fences that will keep your dog “safely” in your yard? Did you know it’s advertising dog tasers? 

Did you hear Hope’s head explode this week? It happened on Monday when she was following up with a new student in her Manners/Obedience class. The person asked “Can you explain to me what’s aversive about an electric dog fence?” (She used the trademarked brand name.)

Dog playing in yard

Really? Seriously? Stick a collar on your dog with metal spikes facing his neck, turn it on, and you have the equivalent of a taser aimed at your dog. And that taser goes off with the press of a button.

After Hope picked her jaw up off the floor, she explained that administering an electric shock is a painful punishment that relies on fear. At this point, the student said the company installing / training her new fence had modified its methods. This time, they didn’t run the dog through the fence to train it. OMG!

Think about it

When a company has in its FAQs on its website that its product doesn’t really hurt the animal, something’s wrong. “The correction from a (collar) may be uncomfortable and startling to your pet, it will not hurt them. Many pets only feel the correction once or twice and don’t challenge the system afterwards.” The reason the pet doesn’t challenge the system is because it’s afraid of being zapped again. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

Anything that causes your dog pain, fear, or “discomfort” is an aversive. And that’s not even the worst part of electronic fences. The worst part is that, in the heat of a chase, your dog may barrel through the barrier and not care, hyped up on adrenaline. And then, when the excitement subsides, they can’t get back into the yard without getting zapped. So they don’t.

Careful marketing

We see ads all the time for different products that promise to instantly solve dog problems; barking, pulling, jumping, chewing. All of them claim not to hurt the dog. They’re all liars.

There are no fast and easy “fixes” for dog behavior. Anything that promises an instant fix relies on doing something the dog doesn’t like. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. But at least look for something that adheres to the LIMA philosophy of “least intrusive, minimally aversive.” Dogs don’t necessarily love the no-pull harness that we carry in our shop. But it doesn’t cause long-term damage to the dog’s shoulders, as front-attaching harnesses do. And using it doesn’t cause discomfort or “startle” the dog. They may not like being drawn in a different direction (toward you), but it doesn’t cause them pain.

The air-horn type devices that are marketed to stop barking, the “silent” correctors – these are all aversives designed to stop some dog behavior. But all of them rely on you having the controller and being willing to “startle” your dog. None of them teach the dog anything but to be afraid of the thing. And possibly afraid of you. (We’ve written before that dog training shouldn’t hurt. And all dog training should strengthen the bond you have with your dog.)

Make a difference

You love your dog. Why on earth would you want to do something that causes them pain? Or even “discomfort?” Especially when there are other means that not only work better, but are actually fun for both of you? Positive reinforcement training does take time. Hopefully, you and your dog have a lifetime to play together. Make the most of it. Do it with kindness, and fun. 

Dog Training Plan B

There is no “one size fits all” to dog training. Your first attempt at training a new behavior may work, but dog training needs a “Plan B.”

One of the nifty things about dog training is that you can see it working. You can see the dog thinking, trying to solve the puzzle. And they love the process of problem-solving. Dogs trained with games are always happy to try. But what if the dog can’t do it? It’s time to present the question in a different way.

Dog Training Plan A

Cagney, the exuberant black lab mix pup.
Cagney, the exuberant black lab mix pup

We were visiting with family this past week and got to meet their 10-month-old Black Lab mix puppy.  Cagney is a really nice puppy. He gets along with their 14-year-old Pom mix, their small children, and is a happy, friendly pup. Who jumps to say hi. And to steal stuff off the counters.

When we came in, Cagney greeted us by jumping up. He’s a tall boy – his front paws were easily able to rest on our shoulders. An exuberant, but rude, greeting

And, like almost every puppy owner out there, our cousin reached for Cagney’s collar, pulled him away, and said “No jumping.” Needless to say, as soon as she released the collar, he was jumping again.

When asked, our cousin gave us the go-ahead to try something else. So we started the tried-and-true method of turning our backs on Cagney. He loved the game. He just followed us around in circles to jump some more. Apparently, there’s a lot of spinning in circles with little kids around. Cagney had fun, but it didn’t work as a “stop jumping” game.

Shifting to a new plan

Dogs always follow the path that’s most rewarding for them. Cagney’s goal was to get our attention. And, from his perspective, he succeeded. His jumping has always gotten him attention – either from the person he was jumping on, or from his people getting hold of him. Either way, his goal was met. 

We had to shift his thinking. Another way of stopping a dog’s attention-grabbing behavior is just to leave the vicinity. Walking away from the dog takes away the game and usually stops it cold. But Cagney is, once again, accustomed to the behavior of small children, who constantly run around. That method wouldn’t work with him.

The response to Cagney’s jumping is to stop everything. Movement, conversation, looking, grabbing, everything. We folded our arms and stared at the ceiling. Cagney didn’t understand at first, pawing at our arms, and jumping. This is where the hardest part of dog training comes in. We just stood there, silently. In just a few moments, Cagney’s puzzlement (or frustration), caused him to just sit. And he was immediately praised, rewarded, petted, and fussed over. He attempted to jump. Arms folded, eyes on the ceiling. He sat again. Praise, pets, and treats.

Not a doggy genius

And just like that, with only a couple of repetitions, Cagney got the idea. There were a couple of times over the next few hours that he forgot himself and jumped. But he learned just that fast – when he wanted our attention, he came over and sat. The “be patient and ignore” method also works with nuisance barking as a Plan A or a Plan B.

Is the jumping problem “solved?” No, not yet. It will take a while before the 10 months of jumping is overridden by the new sitting behavior. If our cousin doesn’t keep it up, it won’t last at all. And until it’s a habit to greet people by sitting, our cousin will have to get all visitors to “fold and stare.” And reward heavily every time he successfully sits instead of jumping.

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. When Cagney makes the right decision to sit, praise has to be almost instantaneous for him to make the connection. Puppies especially have a very short attention span, and if there’s a lag between behavior and praise, the link may not take.

Planning ahead

The reason we have a variety of games to play for almost every dog behavior is so we can adapt to the dogs we meet. What works for one dog, may not work for another. Just like people, they have different learning styles, different experiences, and different knowledge sets. 

If the game you’re playing with your dog isn’t getting results, think about what’s going on, how the dog is reacting, and what you can do to change it. Just like when you’re talking with someone who isn’t understanding what you’re saying, find a different way to express it. There are lots of ways to do almost anything. The right one is the one that works.

The best time for dog training

Simon loves to play dog training games anytime.
Simon loves playing training games anytime.

It’s never a bad time to play dog training games. Whether we’re talking about the time of day, the phase of your life, or how old your dog is. Truthfully, your dog is learning from you all the time – how to behave, what you like, what’s acceptable, and absolutely what’s not. 

We talked to a person today who’s interested in doing “stuff” with her dog. She has a three-year-old Labrador Retriever and knows he’s smart. He can “do stuff.” And she’s reached a point where she knows he’s not living up to his potential. He can do more. And she wants to give him that chance.

How much training 

It surprises first-time dog owners that dogs are intelligent beings who thrive on challenges. The before-dog fantasy may have included cuddles on the couch, or everywhere companions. But it probably didn’t incorporate the laughs, frustrations, and surprises in store. 

When people adopt dogs from rescues or shelters, they tend to be all gung-ho on training class right away. They don’t realize it takes weeks before the dog adjusts to the new environment. At first, it’s more important to let the dog decompress and start to relax. For these dogs, 2-Minute sessions may be ideal. Just a little bit at a time, and always fun.

Getting a puppy is a bit different. Puppies aren’t “blank slates,” but they don’t have the baggage that rescue dogs carry. Puppies are ready to absorb and learn from day one. But they don’t have the attention span or stamina. Or, for that matter, the retention. For these dogs, the short, fast, fun games are perfect. 

When to get “serious”

Like the woman we spoke to, there comes a time that you look at your dog and realize how much more they’re capable of. The long walks and “fetch” sessions are routine and getting a bit boring. Maybe that’s when you start investigating what more there is for you and your dog.

All of the dog sports exist for fun. Some you and your dog can play in the comfort of your own home, like “Trick Dog.” Others need wide open spaces and knowledgeable instruction to keep you and your dog safe, like agility. When you start to look around, you’ll find a myriad of possibilities for every dog/handler team.

Good foundation

Every single dog sport starts with the relationship between you and your dog. That’s what we’re doing here. 2-Minute Dog Training will build the focus, willingness to try, the trust, and the partnership between you and your dog. When you explore the world of dog sports, take your 2-Minute dog training games with you. There’s no limit on what you and your dog can achieve. 

Teach your dog “Poop” on command

Nobody relishes standing out in the rain waiting for their dog’s to eliminate. You can make life easier for both of you when you teach your dog “Poop” on command.

There’s an old joke that an alien visiting our planet for the first time would be convinced that dogs are the species in control because their minions follow them around, pick up their poop, and carry it around.

But every responsible dog owner has the obligation to clean up after their dogs, regardless of what aliens think of us. But it would make life better if our dogs would eliminate when and where we want, rather than taking forever to find the perfect spot.

You must be willing

Teach your dog “Poop” on command

To achieve the “poop on command” goal, you have to be willing to commit. You must go out with your dog every single time, you must have treats with you, and you must be clear and consistent. 

Even though we have a fenced yard, we go out with our dogs every single time. Even if it’s raining, sleeting, or three in the morning.

There are lots of reasons we do:

When we had a nasty-dog neighbor, we could avoid fence fighting.
We can stop our dogs from eating various unknown, nasty things in the yard.
We get first dibs on the bread slices the squirrel drops in our yard (yes, we do have foolish neighbors).
It lets us know if one of the dogs has stomach issues, before they mess the house.
We know which dog has the tummy trouble.

Is it convenient? Not particularly. Especially with multiple dogs, we think it’s wise.

Getting cooperation

Everybody poops. That’s a given, as well as a beloved children’s book. Learning your dog’s schedule makes for easier housebreaking and elimination training.

When you know your dog has to go, head out with them. If there’s a particular place you want them to go, put them on collar/harness and leash and head directly to that spot and wait. If your dog is one that wanders around before getting down to business, take a couple laps around the yard with them and go back to the chosen spot.

Then it’s a waiting game. For the kabillionth time, we’ll repeat the doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But waiting is the best thing you can do.

When they hit the mark, praise and reward. Call it whatever phrase you choose to use. We use “go poop” because we got over being embarrassed in public long ago. A friend of ours uses “Hit it!” We assume she’ll never be part of a band.

Every single time

If you want your dog to learn to poop on command, you have to praise, phrase (good poop!), and reward every single time. 

We’re often asked when praise and treats can be phased out. The answer is always never. When you’re willing to do your job without pay, that’s when you can phase out your dog’s.

Find It! Dog Game

The “Find It!” Dog Game hits all the right buttons for most dogs. They are, by nature, hunters. Sniffing for “prey” is something just about every dog does. It’s a part of their instinct to seek, even though our pets don’t have to worry about where the next meal is coming from. This is one instance where training really does use a behavior that’s natural for your dog!

Since this game encourages wandering and sniffing, most dogs love it and take to it like a duck to water. It’s a variation on “nose work” dog sports. In AKC Scent Work, “dogs search for cotton swabs saturated with the essential oils of Birch, Anise, Clove, and Cypress. The cotton swabs are hidden out of sight in a pre-determined search area, and the dog has to find them. Teamwork is necessary: when the dog finds the scent, he has to communicate the find to the handler, who calls it out to the judge.”

Any Scent Will Do

Torque is ready to play the "Find it!" dog game
Torque’s ready to play the “Find it!” dog game

Unless you’re planning on going into competition with your dog, you don’t have to use those scents. There are commercially-available scent-work kits, but you don’t need the “official” items to get started. In fact, Hope used plain old cotton rounds used for makeup, and some “unofficial” nutmeg essential oil to start playing the game with Torque. 

He loved it right away. Like most dogs, Torque has an aggravating habit of sniffing anything and everything in the yard. Finding a game that lets him use that skill, instead of being discouraged from it, was heaven-on-earth to that dog. After all, dogs’ ability to discern odors is thousands of times better than ours. We can’t really know how dogs perceive the world by scent. But we can make the experience richer, useful, and fun for them.

Get Started

Torque found the scent!
Torque found the scent!

Any training game you play with your dog starts with familiarizing the “stuff.” In this case,put a couple drops of the oil on the cotton round. Then hold the round at your dog’s nose level, a few inches away. Unless your dog hates the scent, they will move forward to sniff the round. Dogs just can’t help themselves. They’re compelled to check out new things with their noses.

When your dog sniffs, click and reward, saying “Good Find It!” or whatever phrase you’re going to use. After a few repetitions, your dog will figure out his “job” is to sniff the thing. It’s probably one of the easiest games to teach – especially for dogs who love sniffing.

Hide and Seek

Once your dog associates the smelling with getting rewarded, you can try moving it around. At first, just alternate hands or move one or two steps. If your dog eagerly follows the round, you’re ready to move to the next phase of the game. 

At first you’ll “hide” the cotton round in plain sight. If you have another person around, stand with your dog facing away from the area the scent will be hidden. Let your dog sniff it, click and reward, then give it to the other person to “hide.” 

If your dog has shown a tendency to want to eat the cotton round, or take it into mouth, have the person put it under something porous enough for the dog to get the scent, like a basket. If you’re using a box, you may have to punch some holes in it at first for the dog to understand the game.

Once the round is hidden in plain sight, a few feet away, turn around with your dog and encourage them to “Find it!” When they do, click and reward. 

Degree of Difficulty

As your dog understands the game and becomes more proficient, move the scent higher. Or put it in a covered container. “Containers” is one of the tests for dogs in Scent Work competition, and those are closed, plastic containers. Dogs’ noses are powerful enough to “Find It!” even if it’s buried, outdoors, or even in a vehicle. Scent Work is the basis for the work of law enforcement sniffer dogs. Different circumstances, different smells. But essentially the same kind of game.

If your dog is a sniffing prodigy, you’ll probably enjoy doing Scent Work in competition. There are several different organizations who hold trials. You can see what group is most active in your area and look for classes near you.

The “Find It!” game quickly becomes a favorite for most dogs and people. It’s using the dog’s natural instincts and turning it into a game you can play together. Expand the game to different smells, different places, and different elevations to keep it fresh and fun. 

Every dog needs a muzzle

Why on earth are we talking about dog muzzle training?

You’d never use a muzzle on your dog, right? Your dog is a sweetheart and would never threaten anyone! 

Not so fast. How about if your dog is in an accident and injured? Will you guarantee they won’t snap in panic, pain, or fear? Under duress, the mildest-mannered dog may react according to instinct, not training. Every dog needs a muzzle.

One of the first lessons in canine First Aid is how to fashion a muzzle from any strip of cloth or rope. Emergency personnel want to help your dog, but don’t want to risk their own safety to do it. And we don’t blame them. 

Imperatives for safety

There are two things every dog should be trained for “just in case:”

  1. Crates. Every dog should be familiar and comfortable with a cage or crate. For travel, grooming, hospitalization – it’s the safest place for your dog. In the event of some kind of disaster requiring an evacuation, some shelters will only accept dogs if they’re crated. 
  2. Muzzles. While there are many people who would want to help if your dog were injured, nobody wants to risk a bite. If your dog is at all reactive, a muzzle allows you to go anywhere knowing that nothing will happen. (You can read Fran’s introduction to muzzles with Tango and his reactive training in her book Tango: Transforming My Hellhound.) And many veterinarians now routinely muzzle unfamiliar dogs. It keeps everyone safe. Additionally, a muzzle will prevent your dog from putting everything in his mouth on walks.

Better to have it

There’s an old saying “better to have and not need, than need and not have.” Having a muzzle and never needing it is ideal. Needing one and stressing out your dog isn’t good at all. Every dog needs a muzzle – just in case…

There are lots of different types of muzzles out there. There are muzzles with metal “baskets,” leather muzzles, rubber muzzles, muzzles made of net like Simon’s (below). There’s even a muzzle that looks like a duck’s bill, which makes it less threatening-looking. Which kind you get depends on your preference, your dog’s anatomy, and what’s available. You’ll find all of them online – read the measuring and fitting instructions carefully. 

Simon wearing his muzzle. He can breathe, drink, pant and get treats wearing it.
Simon in his muzzle.

If you have a short-faced dog, your options are more limited, but they do exist. Search specifically for a muzzle for brachycephalic dogs, or short-faced dogs. You can see Simon wearing his muzzle to the left.

Your dog’s muzzle should allow you to deliver treats to your dog. It will also allow the dog to drink, pant, and see clearly. Its purpose is to keep everyone safe, not cause further anxiety in a traumatic situation. Simon can obviously see, breathe, get treats, drink and pant while he wears his muzzle. Even though he has no nose to speak of, Simon has a muzzle that works for him.

Muzzle training steps

The first step for introducing anything new to your dog is exactly that – an introduction. Show the muzzle to your dog, click and reward. If your dog sniffs it, click and reward. If your dog stays calm when you pick it up, click and reward. 

Drape the muzzle over the hand that’s delivering treats to your dog. If your dog has to touch the muzzle to get the treat, that’s ideal. But don’t force it. If your dog is wary of the it at first, respect that for now. We want your dog to associate that muzzle with getting lots of high-value treats. Gradually move the muzzle closer to your dog so he has to push into it to get the treat. 

Step by step, gradually introduce your dog to the look and feel of the muzzle. If your dog resists, back up to the last step where he/she was okay, and start again. There’s no rush. Your dog will let you know when he/she is okay with the next step. Pay attention to your dog’s signals.

Keep sessions short

Generally speaking, dogs think muzzles are weird. They’re right. Don’t work on muzzle training more than 2-Minutes, like any other training session. But try to devote one 2-Minute session every day to the muzzle, until your dog is completely okay with it. Getting it over his/her head and clasping the buckle may take some time. Take the time that’s needed so your dog doesn’t mind the muzzle at all. Putting on a muzzle should become one of the strange things Mom (or Dad) wants, so your dog does it willingly. They may never like it, but they do it because we ask them to.

And while your dog is wearing his muzzle, don’t be stingy with the treats! If he’s being good, reward him!

If your dog is familiar with wearing a muzzle, you’ll have one less thing to worry about should the unthinkable happen. It’s another way to protect your pet.

Dogs Get Twitchy, Too

Almost all the dogs in class this week were acting weirdly. Dogs that have known each other for months were acting like they’d never seen each other before. Dogs that have been poky were trotting. It seemed like none of them ever heard the word “Sit!” before. It was one of those nights. Dogs get twitchy.

Full moon syndrome

Somebody asked if there was a full moon. We never checked, but it seemed as good an explanation as any. The weather was good, the room was comfortable, nothing different was happening. But all the dogs got twitchy.

Everybody has an “off” day now and again. Including dogs. Some 2-Minute Training game sessions seem to be done in the blink of an eye. And then there are days that two minutes seems like hours. 

What do you do?

Torque stacking rings
Torque trying to stack his rings

If you and your dog, or either one of you, is having an off day, go with it. If it’s “Ring Stacking Game” day, but your dog is grabbing the rings and running off to chew on them, do something else. Maybe a rapid-fire game of Puppy Pushups will get their focus back. 

The point is to not persist with something that’s not working. According to Albert Einstein, the definition of insanity is to do something over and over and expect different results. 

In dog training, when it happens we call it a “feedback loop.” Your dog does something that’s not right. You say “Let’s try it again” and your dog does it again the same way. Another try results in the same error. 

Interrupt the twitches

At this point, your dog is entrenched in a feedback loop and it’s up to you to break the cycle. Move away, play a different game. If your dog persists, and they sometimes do, you can run away, calling your dog. 

When you’re in a training class and your dog gets caught in any kind of feedback loop, recognize it and break it. If you need to step out of the room with your dog, tell your instructor your dog needs a break. And take one. 

Because most of the dogs in class were twitchy, we made changes to ensure safety. The people changed positions. We structured the exercises in a different order. We all kept careful eyes on the dogs to make sure everyone stayed safe.

Nothing going on

We’ll never know why four of six dogs were twitchy this week. Despite the lack of focus and moodiness, we got lots of practice in. And no one got hurt. 

It’s up to you to recognize when your dog is off, out of sorts, moody, or twitchy. Even the most easy-going dog has days like that. Fortunately, this too will pass.

Paw Preference: is Your Dog a Lefty or Righty?

Torque's paw preference is his left when he "taps."
Torque “taps” with his left paw.

Most dogs have a distinct paw preference, just like people. Unlike people, who are disproportionately right-handed, dogs seem to be evenly divided among lefties and righties, with a significant percentage of ambidextrous pups, too. Have you ever noticed whether your dog is a lefty or righty?

How do you know?

There are lots of different ways of figuring it out. And all of them can turn into another training game. The easiest is to have your dog standing and see which paw, left or right, they use for the first step. Or see which paw your dog uses to hold a bone or other chew toy. 

Our favorite game to figure out left vs. right dog preference is to stand with your dog a few feet away from a wall. Holding your dog’s collar, toss a treat against the wall. Tell your dog to get the treat and then call your dog back to you. See which way your dog turns, to his/her right or left, to come back to you.

Gather the data

A single repetition won’t tell you anything about your dog’s paw preference. If you use the treat-toss-turn game, repeat at least 10 times to find out your dog’s “laterality” (left or right pawedness). If your dog turns the same way eight times out of ten, you can assume that’s the side your dog prefers. 

There doesn’t seem to be any definitive study on “pawedness” in dogs. And it doesn’t really matter all that much. It does let you know which side is “dominant,” which may help you in evening out your training.

Just like people, dogs can over-develop the dominant side. If baseball pitchers didn’t balance their workouts, their dominant (pitching) arm would be huge in comparison to the other. Just like people, dogs also have a two-sided brain. Working the “off” side both physically and mentally, keeps the individual more fit.

Obedience Bias

Booker "heels" at Fran's left side.
Booker “heels” at Fran’s left side.

In most obedience and rally dog sports, the dog is always on the handler’s left side. This practice has ancient roots and goes back to hunters and warriors needing their right (dominant) hand for their weapons. Their dogs were on the left. While the original purpose no longer applies, the dog-on-left habit continues. 

Every so often, it’s great to switch things up. Try heeling with your dog on your right. Your dog may be a bit confused at first, so you may want to use a different word than your usual “heel!” We tend to use “Switch!” to get our dogs into heel position on the right.  

You may find it a bit awkward to stick to the rule “Always give treats with the hand closest to the dog,” but remember it. You never want your dog crossing in front of you to get the cookie. They could trip you and both could get hurt.

Balanced Training

Be careful! These days dog trainers who use a combination of punishing corrections and treats are calling themselves “balanced” trainers. That’s not what we mean. Balanced training should be doing exercises and playing games on both sides. What your dog can do on one side, try on the other. When we’re playing games where our dogs are going from one side of the room to the other (Ring Stacking, Put Your Toys Away), we switch sides periodically. That way our dogs get used to seeing movement, and keeping on task through distractions. 

Surprising laterality

When you’re doing your Perch Work, your dog may find one direction much more difficult than the other. That’s why we do it. Build up your dog’s proficiency on both sides equally to keep them physically fit and mentally acute.

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something  spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm. 

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more. 

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn.
Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.