2-minute tip Archives - Page 9 of 28

Get your dog’s attention with the “Watch!” game

Do you wish your dog would pay more attention to you? There are lots of times and circumstances where aggravation could be avoided if your dog just stopped staring at whatever, and looked at you. Like when your dog spots a bunny on your walk and takes off running when it does. Or when the person with the loaded cat carrier sits right across from you in the veterinarian’s waiting room. Wouldn’t it be great if you could instantly get your dog’s attention?

But how do you get your dog to focus on you when so many interesting things are happening all around? The answer is to be more interesting than anything else. How do you make that happen? Play the “Watch!” game!

Make them love the game

For the “Watch!” game to be effective, the reward for playing has to be the absolute top of your dog’s food chain. If your dog is “meh” about kibble, don’t use it. In other words, the perfect fuel for this game is one your dog would run through fire to get. For lots of dogs, it would be hot dogs, or cheese.

It doesn’t matter where you play the “Watch!” game – it doesn’t require much space or any “stuff” other than treats. This is another great “kitchen game” to play while you wait for the water to boil.

How to play “Watch!”

Have the treats (already diced into reward morsels) in a bowl close at hand, where you can easily reach them, but your dog can’t. Take one treat in each hand between your thumb and forefinger. For this game, we want our dogs to know that we have the treats. With your dog sitting or standing in front of you, hold your arms outstretched at the level of your ears. Straight out, with your hands as far apart as you can get them.

Every single dog we’ve ever met will glance from hand to hand, trying to figure out what you want them to do. One of the reasons we start with the hands so far apart is to clearly see where the dog is looking. We want them to meet our eyes. They’re not doing that if they’re looking back and forth like they’re watching a tennis match.

If your dog is easily frustrated, have them on collar and leash so they can’t leave the vicinity. You want them to keep trying to figure it out – at least for the 2 Minutes you’ll play.

As soon as your dog meets your eyes, even if it was by accident while back-and-forthing, say “Yes! Good Watch!” (or “Look!” – whatever word you want to use is fine) and give the dog, in quick succession, one treat from each hand.

Keep Going

Reload, and do it again. And again. It may take a few 2-Minute sessions before your dog is staring into your eyes like Lady & The Tramp. That’s okay. It will come. Just be consistent, hold those treats out, and stare into your adorable dog’s face. You’ll get your dog’s attention – just be patient.

The next step, when they’re meeting your eyes the majority of the time, is to start bringing your hands in closer to your head. The rate of progression depends on the dog, on the frequency you play the game, and the value of the rewards to the dog. More is better in this case.

Eventually, the objective is to have your hands tight up against your head. You should still be able to discern when your dog is looking at your face, not at the treats. That’s what you want.

Next step

As the game progresses, you can start lowering your hands to your sides. Again, take it slow and make sure your dog’s attention is still where you want it – on your eyes. The ultimate goal is for your dog to love this game so much, all you’ll have to say is “Watch!” and his/her head will snap around to meet your eyes.

The point of the game is to make it so incredibly rewarding for your dog to focus on you that he/she will disregard whatever distractions are around. Like “Touch!,” it’s a game you pull out and play whenever you need it, wherever you are. And whenever you want your dog’s attention.

There may be times when you give the signal “Watch!” because you need it, but don’t have any primo treats at hand. When that happens, and it happens to everyone occasionally, you’ve decreased the “balance” in your dog’s training account. Refresh and even add to that account by playing the game over the subsequent few days with top-of-the-line goodies. We always want our dog to love playing “Watch!” with us.

Never too late to socialize your dog

Lots of puppies adopted in the last couple of years have been deprived. They’re not accustomed to real life in the real world. There wasn’t a way to properly socialize your dog. There just weren’t the places to go, classes to take, people to see, that other dogs got to experience. The good news is that it’s never too late. Every healthy dog can learn to be calm and confident in public, regardless of age or upbringing.

The pandemic saw the shelters empty as people looked for companionship during the lockdown. That was good for both the animals and the humans. There’s no one who appreciates time spent at home more than your dog. The down side was that these dogs led a sheltered existence, so to speak. The world they grew up in wasn’t the same as the one we have now.

Socializing your dog doesn’t mean they have to like every person or dog. It means they can be calm and listen to you wherever you are, whatever’s around, whoever you’re with.

Getting socialized

Just because your puppy couldn’t go places, meet people, and do things doesn’t mean they’ll never be able to. It does mean some “remedial” socialization has to happen. If your dog grew up in the time of “social distancing,” you just couldn’t do the things that help dogs mature into confident, calm beings with public manners. Now, you can.

The key is to start small. If your dog reacts to people walking by, freaks out when bicycles pass, or can’t handle hordes of traffic, don’t plunge them right into those situations. Figure out your dog’s “comfort zone” and expand their world gradually.

Distance is always your friend when training a reactive dog. Watch your dog’s body language. As long as they’re calm and relaxed, you’re doing fine. Watch for signs of stress. They may not be as obvious as lunging and barking.

Something as subtle as stopping to scratch may be stress. It could also be an itch, so look at your dog’s overall demeanor. Where is she holding her tail, or ears? A stiffly-held tail and laid-back ears are signs of nerves. Is he panting? Are the whites of his eyes showing? All of these say “I’m not comfortable.” If that’s the case, stop where you are and just let the dog adjust.

Using dog training’s most difficult skill

This is the time you need to pull out all your patience and just wait. Hang out with your dog. Let them look around and see there’s nothing threatening. When they look at you, reward. You’re establishing in the dog’s mind that they can trust you. You won’t bring them anywhere that’s scary or unsafe.

In this week’s “Manners” class, the first skill Hope had the dogs practicing was this one – doing nothing. All of these dogs were pandemic puppies, now grown into not-very-socialized dogs. It took a while for them to figure out there was nothing going on. We were all just sitting there. Ignoring their noise-making.

When they figured out there was nothing to bark at – they all stopped barking. Of course there were a few moments when one would forget and start, which triggered all of them. But each episode was shorter and had fewer participants.

If the dog stays calm or neutral, that’s the objective. The next time you can get a little closer and start reducing the size of the dog’s comfort zone. When you reach a point where your dog can sit calmly as people walk by in your quest to socialize your dog, it’s time to ask for some help.

Enlist friends and strangers

Ask people walking by to toss some treats to your dog. Hand them some treats if you can get that close. If not, put them on a surface and step away so the other person can reach the treats. As you calmly discuss the weather with the other person, they can toss the treats near your dog. Strangers, in time, become something to be happy about.

Fran’s almost 14-year-old Brussels Griffon Tango (pictured above) was an extremely reactive dog. He would bark, lunge, and try to bite both people and other dogs. No one but Fran could get near him. Taking him out in public was impossible. That was 13 years ago – he was 11 months old when he came home.

Now, just by the simple method described here, anyone can give Tango treats, pet him, even hold him. His first “cookie ladies” are still his favorite people – other than Fran. He was able to compete in Agility and Rally at large, noisy venues full of other dogs and people. Now, as a retired elder statesman dog, he’s everybody’s friend and a perfect gentleman. (Check out Book 5: Reactive Dog Recipe in the 2-Minute Trainer’s ebook series.) Tango is proof that it’s never too late to socialize your dog.

Socialize your dog at your dog’s speed

However old your dog is, that’s how long they’ve been building their current behavior. It won’t take as long to change it, but it will take patience and consistency. Stretch your dog’s “comfort zone,” but don’t try to smash the barrier all at once. You can have the calm, polite, socialized dog you planned on. It’s just going to take as long as it takes.

Getting to the “Aha!” moment in dog training

It’s the biggest joy. That “Aha!” moment in dog training that happens when the dog gets it and the dog’s owner sees it. When the team comes together in understanding that they can trust each other, work together, and achieve more than they ever imagined.

We got to see it just this week. This person has had dogs for years. She’s followed lots of different dog trainers and tried all different methods of dog training. And in one single session, she saw her dog change, think, learn, and grow. It was kind of wonderful to be part of it.

Let them think

We wish that these amazing training moments were video-worthy. But they’re not. It’s one of those things where you absolutely have to be there to realize something special is going on.

This person really, really wants her dog (a Portuguese Water Dog) to play the “Put Your Toys Away” game. The first step is to set something not-very-valuable to the dog on the floor. And stare at it. At first, the dog either bothers the hand with the treats, nudges the clicker hand, tries licking or whining to get the action started. The owner and I just wait, staring at the “thing.” In this case, it was an antler chew toy, which the dog doesn’t particularly like. Eventually, in his bid to make something happen, the dog accidentally touches the antler with his paw. Click, cookie near the antler.

The dog sits back and stares at us. What just happened? What did I do to get that treat? You can absolutely see the wheels turning in the dog’s brain. We go back to staring at the antler. The dog gets up and tries it again, licking, whining at the treat hand. Nothing. Turns and looks at the antler and slaps it. Click, cookie by the antler.

The “Aha!” moment in dog training arrives. The dog is starting to make the connection. Slap the antler, get a cookie. We’re over our three minutes by then, but the owner wants to keep going.

Next step

After three times pawing at the antler and getting rewarded, we know the dog has figured out that getting the treat has something to do with that object he doesn’t really care about. But he does care about getting treats. For the next step, to encourage growth of the game, we stop rewarding for using his paw. We’re looking for him to use his mouth to pick up the antler.

We could see him get a little frustrated – what worked before isn’t working now. Again, he sits back on his haunches. You can see him thinking. And he comes back to try something else. He mouths the antler! Click and reward. He does it again! Click and reward.

At this point, we’re well over the time threshold and call it a day. The next step will be getting him to hold the antler. Then move while holding it. Then take it to a basket or toy bin. Then drop it. Each little step matters. Some dogs will get it right away. Others may still be at the starting line. But, with your patience, every single dog will experiment to see what gets the reward.

When they know, they know

When you have a dog that’s accustomed to trying new things, thinking of solutions, and experimenting, you have a phenomenal companion and partner. Dogs become more confident, more social, better-behaved, and much more fun. And while the behaviors you learn together may go viral, the process isn’t exciting. Mostly what you’re doing is watching and waiting. The result is worth it. The owner, attuned to her dog, had an “Aha!” moment of her own. It was the first time she’d seen him think, solve, and grow before her eyes.

“One and Done” syndrome in dog training

Is your dog a habitual “one and done” kind of guy? As soon as they get a reward, are they gone, looking for something else to do? The bad news is – it’s your fault. The good news is, it’s pretty easy to fix.

How it happened

If your dog is saying “bye!” after a single reward, they’re reflecting what they’ve learned from you. They don’t expect any more, so there’s no reason to stick around. Give them a reason to stay and they will.

Fix it

Reward "Touch" as long as your dog's nose is in your palm. Avoid "one and done."

The “Touch!” game is a good one to use for demonstration. As a refresher, you hold the palm of your hand in front of your dog and say “Touch!” When your dog touches your palm with his/her nose, with your other hand, you bring a treat to the open palm and deliver it into your dog’s mouth. It’s a simple game. And incredibly useful to get your dog’s focus and attention back to you when they spot that enticing squirrel on a walk, cat at the vet’s office, or bicyclist about to pass on your walk.

The key to the game is leaving your open palm in place in front of your dog. It doesn’t move for the duration of the game. If you’ve been in the habit of using that hand to reward your dog, or moving it away after the “Touch,” you’ve created the “one and done.” Just leave it there. And every time your dog bops his/her nose in your palm, they get another treat. Every single time.

Promises kept

When can you randomize or lessen the number of treats? You can space out the treats when your dog knows the game thoroughly and loves playing it for its own sake. When the value of the treat has transferred to loving smashing his/her face into your palm. And even then, when it’s your dog’s favorite game and they’ll run through proverbial fire to play, you still hand over the reward the majority of the time.

Same thing with every single behavior that requires duration. If your dog is disengaging after a single reward, it’s because they don’t expect more. Surprise them! If you’re working on a down, give three treats in rapid succession, delivered between your dog’s front paws. Then give a release or “That’s all!” cue to let your dog know the game’s over.

It works for games that require motion, too. If you’re working on loose-leash walking, give a reward every single time your dog looks up at you from the correct position at your side.

Your dog knows if you’re being stingy

Dogs aren’t stupid. If you’re stingy, your dog knows it. They have no reason to keep doing whatever it was that got them one treat after they get it.

If, on the other hand, the dog has no idea when the next cookie will be coming his way, he’ll stick around and keep doing the “good” stuff in hopes of being rewarded. Don’t disappoint them!

Dogs are eternal optimists

It’s true. Dogs are always ready to believe that you’ll deliver delightful things. If you give them a reason to keep doing what they’re doing, they’ll keep doing it. What gets rewarded, gets repeated. Give your dog a reason to keep going.

You can’t teach dogs “don’t”

There’s no way to teach dogs “don’t”

“Stop! Don’t do that!” When you say it in “Mom Voice,” most children will freeze and stare at you. Whatever they were caught doing stops immediately. Dogs? Not so much. It’s practically impossible to teach a dog “don’t. That’s the biggest difference between talking to a toddler and a dog.

You can't teach dogs "don't," but you can teach them to do something else instead of jumping.

That doesn’t mean dogs get away with unacceptable behaviors. But when someone asks how to teach their dog “not to jump,” it’s the wrong question. A better, faster, easier approach is to give the dog something else to do instead of jumping on people. (We educated our cousin how to refocus her dog from jumping not long ago.)

Instead behaviors

Think about it. All of the successful things you’ve taught your dog, from potty-training to complex tricks, are teaching them what to do. Not what not to do. If you just thought “Wait! Potty training is teaching the dog not to eliminate in the house!” That’s how you think of it. In fact, what you’ve trained your dog is where they should eliminate.

It’s the same for any other dog’s naughty behavior. We teach our dogs to “Sit!” as a response to a doorbell ringing or a knock on the door. They’re doing something, instead of “not” jumping.

For a while, we believed our dogs knew how to “Leave it!” It’s what we used when their noses poked into the wastebaskets, or they obsessed over the place the bunny dove under the gate. What we really taught our dogs was to refocus on us and get rewarded. Instead of the negative “stop that” behavior intended, we got a “look at me” behavior. That realization changed nothing. We still got what we wanted. Our dogs leave the thing alone. And we still say “Leave it!” because that’s what we’re all used to.

Call it whatever you want

Do the dogs understand the phrase “leave it?” No. They understand that when they hear those words there’s something they’re supposed to do. As long as you’re consistent with the words you attach to behaviors, it works. Like Humpty Dumpty in Alice in Wonderland: “When I use a word… it means just what I choose it to mean – neither more nor less.”

So although the “Leave it!” command is phrased as something “not” to do, there’s actually a positive “something” to do attached. If there’s anything your dog does that you wish they wouldn’t, the most effective way to change the behavior is to give them something to do instead.

Works for all kinds of things

Changing how you phrase things gives you the ability to translate it into “dog.” Since you can’t teach your dogs don’t pull on the leash, instead train them to walk at your side. Rather than “stop counter-surfing,” teach them where their “Place!” is in the kitchen. Substitute “get your toy” for barging into someone coming in the door.

Think about the things your dog does that annoy you. Be honest – every dog is occasionally annoying. Picture what you’d like your dog to do in those circumstances. Then you’ll have a plan to turn things around. What would you like him/her to be doing instead? And how can you make a training game out of it? Now you’re thinking like a dog trainer.

Electronic fences are dog tasers

Ever been tempted by the ads for in-ground electric fences that will keep your dog “safely” in your yard? Did you know it’s advertising dog tasers?

Did you hear Hope’s head explode this week? It happened on Monday when she was following up with a new student in her Manners/Obedience class. The person asked “Can you explain to me what’s aversive about an electric dog fence?” (She used the trademarked brand name.)

Really? Seriously? Stick a collar on your dog with metal spikes facing his neck, turn it on, and you have the equivalent of a taser aimed at your dog. And that taser goes off with the press of a button.

After Hope picked her jaw up off the floor, she explained that administering an electric shock is a painful punishment that relies on fear. At this point, the student said the company installing / training her new fence had modified its methods. This time, they didn’t run the dog through the fence to train it. OMG!

Think about it

When a company has in its FAQs on its website that its product doesn’t really hurt the animal, something’s wrong. “The correction from a (collar) may be uncomfortable and startling to your pet, it will not hurt them. Many pets only feel the correction once or twice and don’t challenge the system afterwards.” The reason the pet doesn’t challenge the system is because it’s afraid of being zapped again. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

Anything that causes your dog pain, fear, or “discomfort” is an aversive. And that’s not even the worst part of electronic fences. The worst part is that, in the heat of a chase, your dog may barrel through the barrier and not care, hyped up on adrenaline. And then, when the excitement subsides, they can’t get back into the yard without getting zapped. So they don’t.

Careful marketing

We see ads all the time for different products that promise to instantly solve dog problems; barking, pulling, jumping, chewing. All of them claim not to hurt the dog. They’re all liars.

There are no fast and easy “fixes” for dog behavior. Anything that promises an instant fix relies on doing something the dog doesn’t like. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. But at least look for something that adheres to the LIMA philosophy of “least intrusive, minimally aversive.” Dogs don’t necessarily love the no-pull harness that we carry in our shop. But it doesn’t cause long-term damage to the dog’s shoulders, as front-attaching harnesses do. And using it doesn’t cause discomfort or “startle” the dog. They may not like being drawn in a different direction (toward you), but it doesn’t cause them pain.

The air-horn type devices that are marketed to stop barking, the “silent” correctors – these are all aversives designed to stop some dog behavior. But all of them rely on you having the controller and being willing to “startle” your dog. None of them teach the dog anything but to be afraid of the thing. And possibly afraid of you. (We’ve written before that dog training shouldn’t hurt. And all dog training should strengthen the bond you have with your dog.)

Make a difference

You love your dog. Why on earth would you want to do something that causes them pain? Or even “discomfort?” Especially when there are other means that not only work better, but are actually fun for both of you? Positive reinforcement training does take time. Hopefully, you and your dog have a lifetime to play together. Make the most of it. Do it with kindness, and fun.

The easiest part of dog training

Everybody knows their dog’s favorite toys, treats, and the perfect spot for scritches. That’s all you need to know for training games. What are the things your dog loves best? Stockpile some of those, choose a game, and start playing!

All the nit-picky nuances

The things that aren’t as natural; reward timing and placement, consistent cues, breaking down behaviors into little teaching chunks, all come with time and practice. And there are some skills we never master, so we work around them. Both of us (Hope and Fran) are notorious for having terrible aim and throwing skills. Just awful. If there’s a way to toss a toy or ball so it smashes something, is unreachable, or causes an avalanche of other stuff, we’ll find it. That okay. We know we suck at it. Both of us practiced throwing the obedience dumbbell, without our dogs, just so we wouldn’t embarrass ourselves in public. We choose to do that here, instead.

And now the dumbbell retrieve is one of ours, and our dogs, favorite games. Because we’re both proud of ourselves for figuring out how to do it. Now it’s fun and we both look forward to playing with it.

Just play with your dog

It’s the easiest part of dog training because you don’t have to worry about getting it “right.” You’re not going to break your dog if you click at the wrong time, say the wrong thing, or misplace a treat. Your dog isn’t going to tell anyone you flubbed it, ever. And when you do screw up, and we all do, just give your dog an “oops” cookie and try again.

Many people worry that they’re doing something “wrong.” The only wrong is if your dog isn’t getting it. If they don’t understand the behavior you’re trying to shape, it’s time to find another angle for teaching it. You haven’t broken your dog, or your training. You just have to make some changes to clarify things.

The coolest thing about dog training is that your partner in crime, your dog, is always willing to play with you. Going back to our video series of trying to teach Torque to “Push” a tube with his nose, you’ll notice lots of changes from week to week. He didn’t understand, or something didn’t “work,” so we changed it.

Clean it up later

Go for the easy, fun part of dog training. Play some training games with your dog. If it needs some polishing, who cares? You can always do that later, when all of the fussy bits of training come more naturally. If you play with your dog, just a couple minutes a day, you’ll be juggling treats, leash, and clicker like a pro in no time.

Give and take in dog training

Life would be easier if everybody would just do what you want, wouldn’t it? But people have this pesky attitude that their opinion matters, too. Just like life, there’s give and take in dog training.

In a civilized society, the two points of view hash it out and come to a mutually satisfactory conclusion. Nobody gets everything they want, but everybody gets something.

Dog training’s like that. You want your dog to behave. Your dog may have a different, or fuzzy, idea of what “behaving” looks like. How do you reconcile those different opinions?

Pick your battles

There are three ways of resolving behavior issues with your dog:

Ignore it:

Simon has to "leave it," but Booker gets a cookie too. — Simon has to “leave it,” but Booker gets a cookie too.

This is for the things that you wish your dog didn’t do, but aren’t worth the energy to change. It’s different for everyone. And it depends on the dog. Booker and Simon (Fran’s Boston Terriers) both love to eat grass outside in the yard. Booker seems to have a cast-iron stomach. But eating grass (and dirt) makes Simon throw up. It was worth the effort to teach Simon to “Leave it!” for everything in the yard.

Is it fair there’s one rule for Simon and a different one for Booker? Probably not. But no one’s ever guaranteed that life is fair. The dogs don’t seem to notice, or care. As long as everyone gets a cookie when the treat pouch comes out, they’re all fine.

Manage it:

Managing the environment is how to deal with irritations you’re in the process of training, but haven’t gotten there yet. If your dog steals shoes, everybody puts their shoes away behind closet doors. If your dog is a counter-surfer, nothing’s on the counter.

This is also where the “tools” come into play. If your dog constantly pulls on leash, while you’re working on loose-leash walking, you can certainly use a no-pull harness. While you’re teaching your dog not to eat grass, control access by taking them out on leash and collar, even in your yard.

A friend of ours is a top-notch dog manager. And up until now, a complete failure at clicker-training, or game-based dog training. We tried. She just didn’t have the patience to let her dogs make decisions. Instead, she’s always told them what to do. Her current dog is having confidence issues her commands can’t fix. For this dog, whether she likes it or not, she’s learning to be patient.

Train it:

This is where you set your priorities. If you’re in a multi-generational family with toddlers or older people, your priority may be that your dog doesn’t jump on people. (2-Minute Trainer Method Book 4: Impulse Control) One of our students last session has balance issues, so her priority is loose-leash walking. Another wants to take her dog to the dog park and hiking, so the recall (Book 2: Come!) was top on her list.

Everybody’s priorities are different. These are the battles you choose to “fight” with frequent, short games that teach your dog the behavior you want. If you want your dog to stay quietly in their “place” while your family is at the dinner table, you sit at the dinner table and play “Place!” (Book 1: Clicker and Place) for a couple minutes every day.

Nobody can teach their dog everything all at once. And dogs can’t absorb it that way. Fortunately, once you and your dog are in the habit of playing training games, you’ll get around to all of it in time.

Give a little, take a little

You’re not a bad dog owner, or a quitter, if there are battles you choose not to fight. Management is fine, if it works for you, your family, and your dog.

Our most obvious one is at meal time. All of our dogs eat in their crates (in the dining room) at the same time we eat. No worrying about who’s eating which food. We’re not concerned about resource guarding. There are no suspicious silences from other parts of the house, and no hooliganizing wrestling matches. It’s a time we opt for peace, quiet, and not having to pay attention to the dogs.

In a way, that’s dog training, too. There’s no fussing in the crates, and no resistance to them. When the food preparation starts, the dogs go dashing to their respective crates. Everybody knows the rules, and happily abides by them.

Interactive dog toys are anything but

It’s weird that dog toys labeled “interactive” are exactly the opposite. All the action comes from the dog – the toy pretty much just sits there. The products labeled “interactive dog toys” just aren’t.

Best interactive dog toys

The truly interactive dog toys are the ones with you at the other end. Tug toys, games of fetch, anything where both you and your dog are necessary to the equation. Those are the games that strengthen your relationship with your dog.

Like any relationship, the one with your dog needs some attention. It’s not that dogs don’t love their people, they do. It’s that their humans haven’t made an effort to be part of the fun.

Building the bond

Fran and Simon playing the "Whatcha gonna do?" game. — “Whatcha gonna do?” game

People complain that their dogs don’t pay attention to them. These are the same people that walk their dogs with their phones in their faces. Or who load up the interactive dog toy with treats, plop it on the floor, and get back on the phone.

Rather than that puzzle toy, how about getting down and playing the “Shell Game” with your dog. Play with them. Instead of dumping food in a bowl, take a couple of minutes, a portion of the food, and play “Touch!” or “Gimme Your Face!”

All good things

When you convince your dog that paying attention to you is worthwhile, you’ll get that attention. You’ll get more than you give, that’s how dogs work. Just a few minutes of dog training games will get you better attention and focus. It convinces your dog that listening to you pays off.

Dogs will predictably act in their own self-interest. If something has worked for them in the past, they’ll do it again. If you reward and praise your dog for looking at you, they’ll do it more often. They tend to be geniuses at figuring out what gets them the most cookies.

Everything in its place

It’s not that static puzzle toys, or treat-dispensing toys don’t have a place. They do. Best uses are when we’re unable to pay attention like during an important phone call. They’re also great for crate training, especially if the dog only gets a very special treat when crated.

Interactive dog toys are fun for dogs. They can smell the treats and most really enjoy figuring out how to get to them. It satisfies some of their instinct for pursuit. And hones their problem-solving ability. Which may or may not be a good thing, depending on the latch of your treat container.

You’re the best interactive toy

Sometimes our students complain that they feel like “Pez dispensers,” because they’re constantly giving treats to their dogs. And that’s true, during training sessions. But those couple of minutes at a time are equivalent to your dog’s “job.” And everyone deserves payment for doing a good job.

The vast majority of the time you spend with your dog isn’t training. Those few minutes you play training games, be the real, interactive, treat-dispensing toy.

Dog training is a joy

Dog training is a joy, not a chore. If it feels like work, or just another obligation, it’s time for a reset.

For the kabillionth time, if you’re not having fun playing training games with your dog, you’re doing it wrong.

It’s probably not your fault. Society puts dog training in the “something you gotta do” category. Get a dog, go to class. Then, after you “graduate,” you can have fun with your dog.

Hogwash! Every single piece of training your dog should have elements of joy. Admittedly, there are some things that are more fun than others.

Potty training a puppy isn’t all that much fun, especially when the weather’s lousy and you’re standing in it. But there are inklings – when your dog gets it right and bounces when you praise and reward. When you realize there hasn’t been an accident in days. When you say “Potty!” in the right spot and the puppy does it! Success is always fun.

Dogs just want to have fun

One of Hope’s obedience competition students said her dog doesn’t like doing the “Down!,” so she doesn’t practice it much. Predictably, her dog, when told to “Down!” is hesitant and slow.

The student and her dog are caught in a feedback loop. They’re feeding off each other’s distaste for the exercise. Since this team wants to compete in both Obedience and Rally, not having a “Down!” is a big problem.

Some people may just practice more, longer, harder. That’s not the way to achieve a slam-to-the-floor “Down!” on command. To get that enthusiasm, the dog has to love doing something. They’ll do whatever you ask (eventually) just because you asked it. But to generate the joy – they have to love the game.

We told our student to stop practicing “formal” downs. Or formal anything, for that matter. Incorporate training games into everyday life. If you’re walking down the hall to your bathroom, grab a treat, call your dog, walk briskly, and ask for a sudden “Down!” Celebrate, reward, and that’s it.

Part of every day

If your dog lags behind you when you’re walking, run a few steps, turn around, and play-wrestle with your dog. “Where were you?” “I was looking for you!” Chances are, the next few steps your dog will not only be with you, but watching your face. And probably smiling.

This week’s competition class started with introducing a game to the teams. Every handler/dog team got a plastic cone. And strict instructions that whatever the dog did with the cone; looked at it, sniffed it, pawed at it, swatted it across the room, was to be praised and rewarded. Even though all of these people know about training games, they resisted at first.

After just a few minutes, the cones went away and we practiced the warm-up heeling around the room. That’s what we usually start class with.

And it was a revelation to the people how much better their dogs performed. There were smiles all around the room – both the dogs and people. Because dog training is a joy.