2-minute tip Archives - Page 3 of 34

Practice always shows

Spread the love

When we were little girls and took piano lessons, it always amazed us when our teacher knew when we hadn’t practiced. We were tone-deaf to our week-to-week improvement or lack thereof. But our teacher knew. Just like we can tell which participants in our classes play training games with their dogs. Practice always shows.

Unlike must-do homework and work projects, both piano lessons and dog training are things you do for fun and enrichment. There’s no accountability for neglecting practice. Except that you’ll never play Carnegie Hall. Or your dog will never walk politely on leash.

Just like we couldn’t tell whether we were getting better at playing the piano, you probably don’t see much difference in your dog’s behavior with a couple weeks of training games under your belt. But if you had a recording of your first time playing any training game, you’d be astonished by the difference.

Minimal investment, maximum return

The one game that most people do practice is “Puppy Push-ups.” We’re not sure if it’s because we start every class with the game, or if people (and dogs) just like it. But by the third week of class, every dog in every class we’ve ever taught is reliably understanding all three commands: Sit!, Stand!, and Down!

And yet, it seems that most people don’t even bother teaching their dogs this elementary training game. If they did, we’re pretty sure our TikTok video of it would be ignored, rather than having over a million and a quarter views.

Training games are easy to fit into your day. Focus on just one or two at a time. Figure out where you’ll probably play (near the couch, in front of the screen), stash a container of treats nearby. When a commercial starts streaming, call your dog over to play. Or just open the treat container. That should get Fido’s attention!

Pick your battles

Trainers have a saying that “Every dog is trained to their owner’s level of comfort.” It’s up to you to decide the aspects of dog behavior that are important, interesting, and fun for you and your dog. You may not care if your dog knows how to “Spin!,” so don’t bother with it. But you do want your dog to sit politely to greet guests in your home. That game moves up to the top of the list.

At the start of classes we’ll ask our students “What’s your dog’s best training game?” The answer is always the one that’s most important to that person. That’s the one they chose to play. And it’s the one their dog is best at. The practice and the proficiency go hand in hand.

Don’t complain. Train.

Dogs’ naughtiest behaviors often become the stories and anecdotes that build family legends. Like our first dog sneakily swiping a steak from the kitchen table while we were all standing there watching him. Or the auntie who darted into the bathroom as soon as you emerged to take anything/everything out of the wastebasket before her dog nabbed it.

But you don’t really want the funny stories. You want a dog who understands the rules of your household and is a full participant in family life. Pick a game. Any game. Start with one. Before you know it, you and your dog will have a concert-worthy repertoire.

Training Game: On and Off

Spread the love

Sometimes we invent training games for dog sports, like Obedience or Rally. Some games are just for fun. Others, like “On and Off” are for keeping our dogs healthy, fit, and moving.

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque is now 10 years old. He’s been showing some instability in his back legs. Many Frenchie people have commented about it on our videos, asking if he has IVDD (Intervertebral Disc Disease), which is fairly common in French Bulldogs. It’s not that. Instead, Torque’s hips are the problem.

Torque has always been front-heavy. It’s just the way Frenchies, and all broad-chested dogs, are built. To compensate, especially because we play dog sports, Hope has taught her dog hind-end awareness. He knows how to back up and plays “Paws & Boots” regularly.

Losing ground

A few months ago, Torque began slipping going up a flight of stairs. We figured he’d strained something, so didn’t think too much about it. Until it became months of carrying a 30 lb. dog up and down, multiple times each day. So the wheels started to turn. What could we do to help him regain his thigh muscle tone and strength? The “On and Off” game was born.

We use a foam roller for this game. Hold it steady between your feet. Because it’s foam, it’s a slightly unstable surface and requires the dog to engage their core during the game. A strong core is important to keeping your dog fit and healthy, just as it benefits people.

Like any exercise focusing on a particular muscle group, aim for a gradual increase in the number of repetitions. If your dog has weakness in their hind end, or is older, don’t overdo it, especially at first. Just like people, dogs can get sore if they start to use any muscle that’s been unused in a while.

Just like it sounds

Holding the roller between your feet, invite your dog to put their front paws on top. Reward for success. If your dog doesn’t know “Paws Up!” or a similar command, you can lure this behavior at the start. Just hold the treat slightly above the dog’s nose and move it up and toward you. The dog should follow the movement of the treat. When the dog’s two front paws are on the roller, give the dog the treat and name the behavior. We call it “On!” but you can certainly use “Paws Up!” as you might for the Paws And Boots training game.

Have you taught your dog a release word? If so, you can use that to let your dog know it’s time to step off the roller. Or you can use “Off!” It’s a natural extension of the “Off!” game you taught your dog to stop them jumping on people.

Just a bit more

Repeat the “On and Off” a few times. Aim for five or so repetitions at first. If you’re trying to build up your dog’s hind end strength, try to add one or two repetitions each time you play. A couple times a week should be sufficient.

After less than a month of playing “On and Off,” we’re pleased to report that Torque is more confident going up stairs now. He’s only doing a couple at a time, but it’s better than none. Especially if you have small dogs, a full flight of stairs may be the equivalent of a three-story building to a person. Reward for any progress and each step forward.

Positive reinforcement works on people, too

Spread the love

We were fans of the tv show “The Big Bang Theory.” One episode featured a classic example of positive reinforcement training.

If you watched the show, you know that the primary characters, Leonard and Sheldon, were scientists. Sheldon, in generous terms, wasn’t adept at social interaction. In this episode, Leonard, his girlfriend Penny, and Sheldon are watching TV. When Penny talks over the program, Sheldon gets annoyed. He gives her a glare and she promises to be quiet. He offers her a chocolate. Penny’s phone rings and, after a glance at Sheldon, says she’ll go into the hall to talk. Sheldon offers her a chocolate.

Sheldon’s applying positive reinforcement to get what he wants. Leonard notices and says:

“Sheldon, you can’t train my girlfriend like a lab rat!”

Sheldon replies “Actually it turns out I can.”

Not a new concept

While most sources attribute positive reinforcement to B.F. Skinner’s development of operant conditioning in the 1930s, the concept is much, much older. Ever heard the proverb “You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar”? Ben Franklin’s Poor Richard’s Almanac cited it in 1844.

Positive reinforcement is one of the quadrants of operant conditioning. Explaining the other three would dive deep into weeds most people would rather not explore. If you, too, are nerdily interested, there’s lots to find. Have fun!

The point is that positive reinforcement works on people as well as dogs. Everybody is more interested and eager if they know their efforts will be appreciated. Sometimes that’s a simple “thank you!” or “well done!” And sometimes it’s a piece of chocolate.

Getting where you want to be

Research has proven that positive reinforcement works better for learning and retention than punishment-based training. “Reward-based dog training offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare,” according to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, which says there is no evidence that aversive practices are necessary for dog training or behavior modification.

It’s also true that positive reinforcement training requires time and patience. Having a background in correction-based training, we know that a few strong “collar pops” will probably stop a dog from pulling. It will also make the dog fear the collar and cause pain. Punishment-based trainers have euphemisms to describe what they do. “Collar pop” or “correction” sounds better than yanking on a dog’s collar to hurt them.

Getting a dog to understand what you want is like playing charades with an alien. You don’t have a common language, you can only communicate through motions and rewards. It takes time to reach understanding. Once your dog realizes that every little training game will be fun and rewarding, they’ll love those sessions.

Take a breath

It may take a while for the light bulb to turn on in your dog’s brain. You may get to a point where, after a week or two, you’re wondering if you’re doing something wrong or if you have the dumbest dog on the planet. That’s just about the time when you can expect your dog to come up with flashes of brilliance. Just when you’re starting to despair.

Sticking with short, fun training games isn’t a huge commitment. Devoting ten or 15 minutes a day to your dog should be something you look forward to. The best way to start the day is playing a couple games with your best friend. Just ask your dog.

Luring And Rewarding- Treats in their proper place

Spread the love

What’s the difference between luring and rewarding your dog?

Picture yourself planning a driving trip to someplace you’ve never been. One way of getting there is just entering it into your map app on your phone and following directions. Presto! You have arrived. You may have absolutely no idea how you got there. And you might not have a clue how to get home. But it worked.

In the olden days, you’d take out a road map, plot your trip, consider the alternatives, use your familiarity with traffic patterns, and choose the best option. You’d know where you drove, how you got to your destination, and how to get home again.

Easier isn’t better

The GPS option is certainly easier. So is luring your dog. That doesn’t mean it’s better. If you always stick a treat in front of your dog’s nose to get them to do something, they aren’t learning. They’re following directions.

The point of training (aside from having fun with your dog) is teaching them how to do stuff and make good decisions. You don’t want to have to tell your dog what to do all day every day. It can get exhausting.

Instead, teach them how to think and reward good decisions.

More tools in the kit

There is a place for luring. It’s in the initial, teaching stage of a new behavior. “Spin!” is a good example. While some dogs may spin around naturally, it’s not a given. Luring the dog into a spin is the easiest way to show them what you want them to do. It has the added benefit of showing the dog the arm motion you’ll use to signal a spin.

While it may not be a natural behavior, it’s one that most dogs learn quickly and love doing. It transitions easily from luring to rewarding.

Luring and rewarding

Luring is having a treat in your hand and leading your dog to behave a certain way. Rewarding is asking the dog for something and giving a treat immediately after they do it. The timing has to be so close that the dog knows their action prompted a great reward. Booker has gotten rewarded for spinning, so he’ll do it repeatedly.

The premise here is “What gets rewarded gets repeated.” If your dog got a treat for spinning, chances are strong they’ll spin again. As long as the reward comes right after, the dog will retain the link between the action and its yummy result.

Making dogs think

Dogs aren’t stupid. When they know that something great is going to happen if they behave a certain way, they do it. They’re motivated to act.

Better yet, dogs will puzzle out what they have to do to earn that treat. When you have a dog trained with positive reinforcement, they’ll try all kinds of things to see what gets them the goodies. As your dog becomes increasingly confident, they’ll show you more and different actions to win the reward.

Patience pays

The hardest thing about dog training is being patient and letting your dog think. Introducing new things with a lure starts your dog on the path. Fading the lure and replacing it with a reward solidifies your dog’s grasp on the behavior. You’ll know you’re there when you can wave your hand in a circle and your dog spins like a top. Make sure that good dog’s reward is close at hand.

Dog Training Game – Trade Ya

Spread the love

The “Trade Ya!” dog training game works in lots of different scenarios:

Fifi doesn’t like to play with toys. “Trade Ya!” to teach her.
Phydeaux’s biting at your pants while you walk down the hall? “Trade Ya!” for a tug toy.
Spot’s grabbing crumpled paper from the wastebasket? “Trade Ya!” for a tossed ball.
Rover’s munching on anything they shouldn’t? “Trade Ya!” for a yummier treat.

Dogs are great shoppers. They know what they like and what’s not very interesting. The most vivid example we’ve seen is the annual video from the Dogs Trust Ireland. For the holidays, the shelter has a “Santa Paws” day where each dog gets to choose from a roomful of toys. The vast majority of the dogs pick one and stick with it. Not much indecision there. Dogs know what they like.

Good, better, best

And just like people, dogs have a rating system for their preferences. There’s stuff that’s okay. Other stuff that’s good. The next tier is better. And, at the apex is the stuff they’ll run through fire to get.

All of these levels have a place in your dog’s life. To play “Trade Ya!,” you need to know your dog’s rankings for toys. As every dog owner knows, the toys you spent the most money on and thought your dog would adore are probably at the bottom of the list. Now you’ll finally get your money’s worth of fun.

To teach your dog “Trade Ya!,” pick three toys, one each representing good, better, and best. Also have your dog’s absolute favorite treat. Play this game somewhere that’s dog-toy-free. Nothing else around to attract your dog’s focus.

Play with me!

Start with the least-favorite of the three toys. Put the other two someplace you can reach them, but the dog can’t. Slap that toy on the floor and slowly wave it back and forth to get your dog to play tug with you.

Note: be sure you tug side-to-side. Never tug up-and-down to avoid injury to your dog’s neck.

If your dog doesn’t play tug, or isn’t showing any interest, lightly contact your dog’s paws with the toy as you move it across the floor in front of them. Be really annoying with it. Don’t take “no” for an answer. Eventually, your dog will succumb and get hold of the toy.

As soon as the dog grabs the first toy, whip out the second one, slap it on the floor, wiggle it back and forth and say “Trade Ya!” Since this second toy is more interesting to the dog than the first, the dog should readily drop it and grab the new toy you’re offering. (Remember your dog’s reward hierarchy!)

Rinse & repeat

When the dog’s tugging the middle-of-the-road toy, pull out the best toy, slap it on the ground, say “Trade Ya!” Your dog should grab onto the favorite toy and drop the other. Play tug for a moment. Let your dog “win” the game sometimes.

Tug shouldn’t be a duration game. After a few tugs, say something like “That’s all!” and end it. If your dog won’t give up the “best” toy, reach for the high-value treat you brought and once again, say “Trade Ya!”

Lesson of the game

It may take a few sessions for your dog to understand that they’re trading up with “Trade Ya!” In time, they will readily drop what they have to choose the trade option.

Always be sure that the next-level toy or treat is handy before you say “Trade Ya!” If you don’t have something “better,” you’d be lying to your dog. That would poison the game and you might have to start over from the beginning.

Whenever you say “Trade Ya!” your dog will come to expect that they’re getting something even better than whatever it is they have. That applies to anything your dog may have that you’d rather they didn’t. Playing tug is more fun for the dog than biting your pants leg. The best treat is better than chewing on grass. Take advantage of your dog’s pro shopping ability.

Hardest skills for dogs

Spread the love

The hardest skills for dogs are the ones that aren’t natural. Of course the same is true for humans. People naturally want to help their dogs succeed, so patience/waiting is the hardest part of dog training. For dogs, who want to be with their people, the most difficult skills are staying and going.

That sounds contradictory, but it’s not. Both the “Stay!” and the “Go out!” usually involve separation between you and your dog. If you have a good training relationship with your dog, they want to be near you. Always. The closer the better.

Too much of a good thing

You might think that creating a strong bond might pave the way for unwanted behaviors like separation anxiety. Instead, it actually helps reduce the issue. Dogs with strong training-game experience tend to be more confident and able to deal with everyday anxieties more easily. They’ve been taught how to make good decisions and to persevere through stress.

It’s one thing for the dog to deal with your routine absences. You probably have a familiar ritual you follow every morning as you leave. It’s probably been choreographed down to a science, with singing out “Be good!” the last thing as you sail out the door.

While dogs don’t know where you’re going or what you’ll be doing there, they never did and probably never will. You don’t miss what you’ve never known. And they don’t have an option. However, a command to “Stay!” requires that the dog actively work against their own instinct to accompany you wherever you go.

“Go out!” is just as difficult, if not more so. At least with the “Stay!” your dog is able to watch you walk away. They may not like it, but they can see what you’re up to and know they can reach you quickly if you suddenly suffer an attack of dog withdrawal. With the “Go Out!” your dog has to choose to go away from you. They can’t see you as they move away.

Fetch doesn’t count

But wait, you say! My dog runs away from me all the time when we’re playing “Fetch!” In that case, your dog isn’t actually “Going Out!” What they are doing is chasing an object in motion. Just as you’d expect any predator to do.

Both the “Stay!” and the “Go Out!” have three aspects to work on individually.

Duration – Gradually increase the amount of time the dog is on their own without rewards.This is the first thing to work on with the “Stay!” and the last thing to work on with the “Go Out!”
Distance – The first thing to work on for “Go Out!” Gradually increase the distance you put your Target for the dog. For the “Stay!,” randomize the number of steps you take away from your dog and return to the dog to reward. Remember to always reward the dog to the front – don’t make them turn to reach the reward or you’ll pull them out of position.
Distraction – Introduce all kinds of distractions. In the “Go Out!” practice with distractions both when the dog is in motion moving away from you and when the dog reaches the Target and is supposed to stay there. For the “Stay!,” use all kinds of distractions at varying distances from the dog. Even the hardest skills for dogs can be taught with patience and consistency. And distractions.

About distractions

A distraction can be anything that’s different. It can be sounds, like someone banging pots in the next room. It can be something in motion, like a tennis ball rolling across the training area. It can be a combination of both, like a sound-and-motion toy in the room.

The most difficult distraction we’ve ever dealt with was from our very first dog training teacher. For the “graduation” class, he brought freshly-made french fries and spread them around the floor, expecting us and our dogs to navigate across the room through the delicious smells. Every dog/handler team did it. You can, too. Tailor the level of distraction to your dog’s interest. Start with things they don’t care much about and increase the difficulty as their skills improve.

Distance is your friend

Spread the love

Your dog loves being near you. That’s a wonderful thing. But there are times when a little distance is your friend.

Sometimes, especially if you have a fearful dog, you use distance to help your dog adjust. Slow introductions to new places, things, and people help timid dogs cope.

In another scenario, you may want to build distance between you and your dog, to encourage your dog to “work” away from you.

Go there, do that

Many dog sports require your dog to leave you to perform some task. Quite a while ago, Hope took her Brussels Griffon Roc to a tracking seminar. They flunked spectacularly. Roc wouldn’t move more than an arm’s length away from Hope, let alone go ten or fifteen feet out to follow a scent.

In Obedience and Rally there are exercises where you send your dog away – the Directed Jumping in Obedience and the Go To Cone in Rally. Training your dog to listen, even if you’re not right next to them, is helpful.

Staying on course

The most consistent example is probably in Agility. No one, regardless of age or athleticism, can run as fast as their dog. Yet in agility, you run with your dog, directing their path around the course. Distance handling is the answer.

In the most extreme examples, there are handlers who are able to pick a spot somewhere on the course, and direct their speedy dogs faultlessly around. They use body language and vocal commands to steer their dog’s path. It’s impressive to watch, difficult to get right, and takes time to achieve.

Getting on track

French Bulldog touching a target to illustrate distance is your friend.

One of our Rally students would really like to do agility with his dog. But he’s hampered by his physical limitations. He can’t run, due to issues with his spine and hips. He can, however, teach his dog to work away from him.

The first step in distance handling is Target Training. When your dog loves the Target game, you can place the target anywhere. It’s an easy way to teach dogs how to go over jumps, and hit the required contact area on agility obstacles.

Delayed gratification

Dogs transfer the perceived value of the reward to the object and the game. If your dog has been rewarded frequently for touching a target, the target itself becomes a reward. Getting to play the target game is valuable by itself.

That doesn’t mean you eliminate the reward. It means that you can delay it. After sending your dog to the target you can move to place the reward on the target. Or you can call your dog back to you and reward. Either way, the value of the target remains high.

Keep it local

For every time you send your dog away, reinforce working close, too. The last thing you want to do is convince your dog that you’re not part of the fun. You always want to be one of the components of any training game. All wonderful things in your dog’s life should involve you.

When your dog learns to work with you, even from a distance, it opens more options for your team in dog sports. Build the distance gradually, and your partnership will grow exponentially.

Muzzles are good management

Spread the love

What do you think when you see a person walking around with a muzzled dog? Are you wary? Do you grab your dog and cross the street? Thinking needs to change. In fact, muzzles are good management.

Sadly, the stigma attached to using a muzzle for your dog prevents many people from using one of the least intrusive, most useful dog management tools ever. Using a muzzle prevents your dog from starting any trouble and insures they won’t contribute to any they find.

Everyday wear

Take the case of a dog from our “Impulse Control” class. He’s a young dog, a medium-sized terrier. Let’s call him Sam. Sam is the first dog of a very nice young couple, and he does great in their apartment. He does okay on walks. He’s nipped two people in the elevator. That’s a problem. And a pretty big one.

Sam isn’t a mean dog. He’s a young, scared dog who doesn’t get the distance he needs to feel safe when he’s in an elevator. The absolute cardinal rule for fear-aggressive dogs is “distance is your friend.” The fear reaches a boiling point when the dog is trapped and unable to move away.

Sam’s people have to take the elevator. Sometimes they’re not going to be able to wait for an empty car, or be able to ask other people not to get in. Everybody’s got places to go and schedules to keep. What they can do, to make sure that everyone, including Sam, is safe.

Muzzle your dog

We started muzzle-training the dogs in impulse control class. Every dog should be accustomed to a muzzle – you never know what circumstances may require it. If your dog is injured, they will also be frightened. And they might lash out at people who are trying to help. Emergency vets and technicians routinely muzzle dogs – you can’t know how much pain a dog is in, or how it will react. Most dog owners, fortunately, don’t know how their dogs would react to an injury. Muzzles are good management – even the calmest, most well-behaved dog might react poorly to a perceived threat – especially if the dog is in pain. Plus, a muzzle means that your dog won’t pick up strange objects in the backyard.

The first step in muzzle-training is like any other game. Get the dog familiar with the object and reward interaction with the thing. Looking at it, sniffing it, pawing at it, taking it in their mouth – all are steps in familiarization. Reward each interaction. Ideally, put your hand through the muzzle to reward your dog, so the muzzle becomes part of the interaction.

Over the course of a few 2-Minute sessions, accustom the dog to the muzzle. Depending on the kind of muzzle, you can put your hand through while giving your dog treats. Start asking your dog to stick his nose/muzzle in the muzzle. If you don’t have one, or if the dog needs time to get used to the muzzle, use a plastic glass or cone and ask your dog to stick their nose in. Reward in or by the thing to build value in the interaction.

If your dog is skittish, don’t even try putting the muzzle on until your dog has made friends with it. We want dogs to believe that muzzles are no big deal. Because they’re not. Or at least they shouldn’t be. Muzzle-training your dog means you care about everybody’s safety in any situation. It’s “what if” training that we hope your dog will never need.

Not always everywhere

In Impulse Control class, we had no muzzles, so we used plastic cones to simulate something for the dogs to stick their faces into. Once they figured out that treats were involved, they were shoving their noses in as far as they could go.

Sam’s parents have the task of finding a muzzle that works for them and their dog. (For a description of various types of muzzles, see “Every dog needs a muzzle.”) They asked if they had to use it all the time. The answer is yes. And no. Since Sam’s issues are in enclosed spaces, he needs to wear it in the apartment building and elevator. Once they get outside, it can come off. They can achieve the distance from other people/dogs/objects that Sam finds scary.

The elevator trip back home also requires the muzzle back on. And, if friendly neighbors are sharing the ride, by all means ask them to give Sam treats.

Defy dog logic

We’ve had people who say “I’m not giving a dog treats for growling at me!” That’s a complete misinterpretation of what’s going on. You’re not rewarding the growling, or reactive behavior. Instead, you’re proving to the dog that you’re not frightening and you’re a nice person. All people are nice.

That’s the message dogs should get from all strangers. Especially dogs who are somewhat fearful. The objective is to reassure them that you’ll keep them safe. They have nothing to fear. Not even fear itself. And muzzles are good management.

Make it easy on your dog. Expect perfection.

Spread the love

It’s not being mean to expect perfection from your dog. It makes it easy for your dog to understand exacly what you want.

We have a friend with both French Bulldogs and Border Collies. Our friend makes us absolutely crazy because she holds the different breeds to different criteria in training. She expects the Border Collies to be perfect. The Frenchies can get away with “meh” performances. So that’s what she gets from them.

Every dog is capable of great things in whatever training you choose. Whether it’s reaching elite dog sport performance or becoming the perfect couch cuddler, it’s up to you. But you’ll do your dog a huge favor if you expect perfection.

“Good enough” isn’t

Have you ever asked your dog to “Sit!” and thought “eh, good enough” when the dog lies down? If so, you just confused your dog. The dog was showing you they don’t understand the word. Instead of clarifying it, you fed the confusion.

Unlike people, dogs don’t have a sliding scale or understand there’s an acceptable range. Dogs understand “yes” and “no.” “Maybe” is an alien concept. That’s why dogs often behave better for the “strictest” person in the family, rather than the one who’s “nice” to them. They understand what the “strict” person expects of them. Niceness is confusing.

That doesn’t mean you yell at your dog or order them around all the time. It means that you teach them what you want from them. If it truly doesn’t matter to you if your dog sits or lies down, reward whatever you get. If you actually want them to “Sit!” teach them what it means. Accept and reward only an actual sit position. If the dog lies down, wait and look at their butt. Don’t repeat the command. Just wait. As soon as they rise into a “Sit!” reward.

Keep it simple

A key to understanding dogs is recognizing that they love patterns and routines. That’s why people who say “Sit” three times (many do) when they’re teaching their dogs will always have to say “Sit” three times to get their dogs to do it.

Clarity and precision are largely disregarded and underrated. With people, you can easily clear misunderstandings with more words. You don’t have that option with dogs. While they can understand hundreds of words, they’ll only know one meaning for each one. And you’re the one who decides what each word means for your dog.

If you think you’ve confused your dog about something, it’s often easier to start over with a new word than fix the mistake. You may never know why a particular word has become “poison” to your dog. Fran had that happen with Tango. He stopped understanding his release word, which was “Go!” He didn’t.

He couldn’t tell us why. Fran could only deal with what was true. So she started over again with a new release word, “Action!” It’s still working just fine.

Dog Training Game: Paws and Boots

Spread the love

All dogs know the stuff that’s important. That doesn’t mean all dogs know the same stuff. What I think is important to teach my dog may be nothing at all like the stuff your dog knows. That’s okay. Every dog is trained to their owners’ level of comfort. If it matters to you, you’ll teach your dog. We think the dog training game Paws and Boots belongs in everyone’s repertoire.

If you don’t care, that’s fine. One of our current training students doesn’t mind that her dog jumps up on people. There’s absolutely no reason to train this dog not to do it. If you don’t mind, it doesn’t matter.

There is one exception. Every dog owner should care about their dog’s physical well-being, fitness, and body awareness. Like all training games, it’s fast and fun. This one also can make a difference in your dog’s life, extending their comfort and mobility even into their senior years.

Building the foundation

Dogs are a lot like people. When they’re young, strong, and healthy some take advantage of their physical prowess and build healthy habits that last a lifetime. Others are couch potatoes by nature and consider most movement optional and exercise a dirty word.

Whatever you choose for yourself, you should claim a place in the “Healthy Habits” camp for your dog. Muscles and joints are “use it or lose it” features. Making a game of exercise now sets them up for an active and thriving old-dog life.

Play Paws and Boots

Most dogs know they control their front legs and paws. Some use their front paws for much more than just walking. They’ll paw at you for attention, use their front paws to move stuff, even rearrange their bedding with front paws. The vast majority of dogs don’t know they also have back paws. Most have no idea they control their “boots,” too.

To play “Paws and Boots” you need something low, 4 to 6 inches, that your dog can step up on. An inflatable balance disc, a large rubber feed bowl, a short stool, even a cushion will do.

The first step is the easier one. Get your dog to put their front feet on the stool (or whatever you’re using). Like all training games, the dogs learn better if it’s their idea, so be patient. Stare at the stool and reward any interaction with it. If the dog looks at it, reward. The next step may be sniffing it, or pawing it. Reward about three or four times for each level of interaction, then wait for more. Get really enthusiastic with your praise when your dog uses their paws.

When the dog is putting two front feet on the stool, start naming it. Most people say something like “Paws Up!”

Around you go

Once your dog has two feet up on the stool, put pressure on them by moving into their space, even nudging their side with your leg. This is one of the few times we’ll advise holding a treat with the hand further from the dog. With both of you facing the stool, if the dog is on your right side, hold the treat in your left hand, with your arm across your body, close to the dog. As the dog curls their neck toward your treat hand, they’ll move their back legs away from you. Continue all the way around the stool, both directions.

It may take a few sessions to get all the way around. Your dog doesn’t understand what you want yet and may keep dropping down to the floor. Try again, praising every time the dog puts front feet on the stool.

Boots are harder

It’s more difficult to teach dogs their back feet, or “Boots” are under their control. The easiest way to start the Boots portion is to have your dog walk across the stool and stop them with boots up. If they come off the object, just try again, repeatedly walking them over and getting them to stop with boots up. Be sure to repeat the phrase “Boots Up!” when they’re in the correct position so they understand that’s the objective.

When they understand “Boots Up!” it’s time to move them around the stool. For this portion of the game, stand facing your dog and take small steps to either side to encourage them to move their feet. Again, it may take a while for the dog to learn what “Boots Up!” means. Be patient. It’s an exercise for a lifetime, not a deadline.