Category: 2-minute tip

Sign Language of Dogs

Do you realize that dogs can understand motions as commands? That’s their “sign language.” At the upper tier of obedience competition, there’s even a behavior, called the “signal exercise” where all the owner can do is motion to their dog. They can’t talk, they can’t move, other than one hand/arm. It’s amazing to watch and even more fun to teach!

Part of the package

Hope is signalling Simon "Touch" with her palm toward him at face level.
Every time Simon sees a palm at face level, he bashes his nose into it: “Touch!”

Most people don’t even realize that they’re signaling their dogs through their motions and their words. Just about every dog owner on the planet will point at the floor when teaching their dog to “down!” It doesn’t mean anything to the dog, but everyone does it. It’s our instinct at play – if we want the dog down on the floor, we point at the floor. 

Eventually, if people practice and are consistent, most dogs eventually understand that we mean “down” when we point at the floor. Interestingly, the obedience signal that most people use for “down” is the arm going straight up from the shoulder, not towards the floor at all. We’d guess that’s because we want to make sure the dog can see the motion from 30 (or more) feet away in competition.

There’s nothing wrong with pairing words and motions when communicating with your dog. The point is to realize that you’re doing it. And that, if you do the same thing the same way all the time, your dog will inevitably associate the two – word and motion.

Conscious uncoupling

It’s always a bit of a shock to our beginner students when we ask them to stand up straight, not move, and tell their dogs to “Sit.” Rarely do any of the dogs get it right. Because every single person came into class absolutely convinced their dogs knew the word “Sit.” You can see people almost twitching to point at their dogs’ butts, or dangle a treat over their heads. That sign language of dogs, along with the words, combined to form “Sit!”

It’s a good idea to “uncouple” the sign language and the words. Having your dog understand either one, or both together, means that there’s no situation in which you can’t communicate with your dog. If you’re in a very loud space, or far away, your dog may not hear you, but can see. Or you may be someplace where it’s just not feasible to point at the ground to get a “Down.” 

Another kitchen game

Try playing “Puppy Pushups” with your dog (we talked about “Puppy Pushups” a few weeks ago). Start by using both your “sign language” and your words. After just a couple of repetitions, try leaving out the motion. Or the words. See how your dog does. In a familiar game context, your dog will probably catch on quickly. When your dog gets it right about 80 percent of the time, increase the distance between you and your dog. Will she do it from five feet away? 10? How about across the street? With just your words? Only on the signs?

It doesn’t really matter which words, or signals, you use. Pick something you’re comfortable with, that you’ll easily remember. If you want to use the same motions that are most common in Obedience Competition, check out the exercises from the 2019 AKC Obedience Classic. (The Signal Exercise is right after the heeling.) Most “handlers” use the same signals and it will give you a chance to see them and their amazing dogs in action.

Dog training shouldn’t hurt

Decades ago, it was commonly thought punishment was necessary to dog training. That dogs wouldn’t understand, or obey, unless they were forced. When you know better, you do better. We now know that dog training shouldn’t hurt.

Positive reinforcement dog training isn’t permissive – dogs aren’t allowed to do whatever they want whenever they want to do it. But it also isn’t punishing. If you ever enlist the help of a dog trainer who advocates the use of either “corrections” or “punishment,” run away. 

But the old ways worked

Maybe so. But punishment is never a long-term solution to any problem. In studying human psychology, also applicable to dogs, the problems with punishment include:

  • It only tells you what not to do. There’s no guidance.
  • It creates fear, which may lead to 
  • Increased aggression.
  • The behavior which triggered the punishment is not forgotten. It’s suppressed and can return when the punishment is absent.

In force-based training, when a puppy had an “accident” in the house, the advice was to “rub the dog’s nose in it,” while yelling “No!” This didn’t teach the puppy not to mess in the house. It taught them not to let you find the mess. So they got sneaky about it, instead of learning not to do it. There was a major interrupt between what was being taught, and what was learned.

Not spiteful creatures

Dogs are really honest beings. They’re not spiteful, or vengeful, or “mad.” They simply don’t understand the “right” thing to do because they don’t know what it is. A classic example is the dog who might urinate on the owner’s bed when left alone. That dog isn’t angry at being left alone. He’s anxious and stressed because he hasn’t been taught how to cope with separation. 

Positive reinforcement training, as 2-Minute-Trainers teach, is building the dog’s understanding so she can make good decisions when faced with unfamiliar situations. If your dog has been taught to rely on you for guidance and feedback, she’s less likely to make poor choices on her own. 

Purely positive is a myth

Realistically, it’s impossible to never use “aversives” in dog training. Since the definition of “aversive” includes anything the dog doesn’t like, even the mildest could qualify. Something as simple as walking away from a dog that’s barking at you can be viewed as aversive, since the dog doesn’t like it. 

Getting technical, it’s called “Negative Punishment” – removing something the dog wants (you) in order to decrease behavior. In the four quadrants of Operant Conditioning, “negative punishment” is the pair to “positive reinforcement”- like giving a treat for a prompt response to “Sit!”

For the most humane, and effective dog training, we use only these. Reward what you like, ignore what you don’t. 

Not the fastest method

We know that in today’s world we all want what we want when we want it. But dogs learn at their own pace. If we’re patient and consistent, our dogs can learn whatever we choose to teach them. Step by step, teaching then testing their comprehension. Some things your dog will get almost instantly. Others take a while. Some things will require that you find a different way of explaining things. It’s worth it.

Simon's "Stand" required a new way of explaining what was required. But force was never involved. Dog training shouldn't hurt.
Simon, not standing.

Fran’s 3-year-old Boston Terrier Simon was always crouching when asked to “Stand!” He’s almost ready for competition obedience, but the “Stand for Exam” was holding them back. He associated “Stand” with a weird little half-sit, instead of the proper position. 

He just wasn’t getting it. So Fran found a different word, and a different way of explaining it to him. After only a couple of sessions, his “Station!” looks like a proud show dog stance, instead of a wobbly squat.

Dog training shouldn’t hurt

We do know some old-school trainers who pretend to be positive, and are anything but. They’ll give their dog a collar “pop” correction while saying sweetly “Good dog!” The dog rarely hears “Good dog!” when it gets things right the first time. This dog’s tail is never wagging happily. Instead, you see the slow, steady sweep of fearful appeasement.

Your dog shouldn’t be afraid to get things wrong. They should know that as long as they try, the worst that can happen is there’s no reward. Which is a signal to try again, try something else. Positively-trained dogs keep going. Because it doesn’t hurt to be wrong.

What to do when your dog plays keep away

Puppies are notorious for playing keep away. They grab stuff off the ground and run off with it. Lots of dogs retain the habit. When your dog plays keep away it’s a bad thing – for everyone. 

The puppy could have something toxic, or that he could choke on. And everyone’s first instinct is to grab whatever it is. Which can get you bitten, or cause the puppy to shy away from you when you chase him to retrieve the thing.

What’s the alternative?

The puppy we’ve been fostering since the beginning of July is notorious for hoarding sticks and rocks. It’s the first thing he does when he gets out the door. He checks out his stash and picks something to carry around and chew on.

All of his beloved “outside toys” are carefully inspected. He’s only allowed to keep rocks too large to swallow, and sticks that are thick and flexible. And none of them are allowed inside. 

He knows this. Sometimes he’s reluctant to drop it, even when he wants to come back in the house. He’ll dash away from the door, an initial bout of keep away.

Avoiding the “keep away” game

Charging after a puppy who’s run off with contraband is never a good idea. The best way to catch a pup is to have them chase you. So the first game to try is “Catch Me If You Can” – run away calling the dog’s name. 

Most can’t resist the chase, especially if you make it exciting. Yell, clap, run heavy so your shoes slap down. If you’re interesting enough, the puppy will even drop the contraband. They forget about the “thing” in the excitement of a new game. (Our 2-Minute Trainer Book 2: Come! includes detailed instructions for the “Catch Me If You Can” game.)

Distract them with play

Any game your dog loves to play should work as a good distraction. “Catch Me” is the most exciting, but it’s not the only arrow in the quiver. Our foster puppy’s favorite game is “Touch.”

A hand touch is a great behavior that can help when your dog plays keep away.
Simon is demonstrating the “Touch” game – great for when your dog plays keep away

We play “Touch” a lot with our dogs because it’s the easiest to use in any situation. All you need is you and some treats. It can be quiet and calm, or it can be active and exciting. That’s determined by you – how vigorously are you moving? How is your voice pitched? You don’t have to be loud – even a whisper can be exciting.

Practical application

When we want Mister foster puppy to drop the “thing” and come to us, we show him the palm of our hand and say “Touch!” He knows that every single touch earns him a treat. When he gets going he looks like a chicken bobbing for seed, shoving that muzzle into our hand. 

It works. He forgets about that day’s rock, or stick, and comes running over to play his favorite game. Puppy loves playing, so he gets what he wants – a chance to play and treats. And we get what we want – the puppy comes to us.

Building the basis

You can start playing “Touch” today. Two minutes a day and it will become a valued part of your dog’s repertoire pretty quickly. How much your dog loves the game depends on you. Decide you love it. What could possibly be cuter than your dog sticking his face in your hand? Reward promptly, for every touch, with incredibly yummy treats. Make sure that your dog is really planting that muzzle in your palm. No waving the nose at your fingers! And the reward should be as close to your palm, and your dog’s muzzle, as possible. Your reward will be having a “go-to” game you can play anywhere.

We pull out the “Touch” game whenever our dogs are nervous. If we’re at the veterinarian’s office and they’re not sure, it’s a perfect time. Or anywhere they’ve never been before and they’re unsure.

It’s also a great game to distract your dog when they see something on a walk that’s completely caught their attention. It could be a squirrel, skunk, or even another dog that’s staring at them. When you need your dog to focus on you, it’s time to pull out your palm and get them facing a different direction.

Don’t grab and go

If you have a dog or puppy who’s a “snatch and run” criminal, whether it’s shoes in the house, or icky stuff outside, it is important to act quickly. Dogs seem to chew and swallow incredibly quickly when it’s something they know they shouldn’t have. 

And it’s fighting your every instinct to not dash over, grab the dog, and do a finger sweep of their mouth. If you succumb to that temptation, your dog will learn to run away, hide the contraband, and avoid you at all costs. 

Having a go-to game, like “Touch” will take the stress out of the situation. It’s a win/win. Your dog gets to play a game they love. And you get your dog to drop the thing.

Dog training nuggets are easy to digest

Dog training nuggets work best. Not chunks. Not whole banquets. Little bittie morsels of fun that let you enjoy moments with your dog. It’s playing structured demi-games that have the side benefit of bettering your bond and building their understanding.

Too big a chunk of anything will choke you. Even if it’s your most favorite food in the universe (chocolate!), you won’t enjoy too big a bite. And chances are, it’ll color your future impression of that food if you couldn’t digest it last time.

Components are key

Most people don’t realize how complex even simple behaviors are until they’re asked to break them apart. Take a simple dog game like “Fetch.” Lots of dogs, especially Retrievers, seem born knowing how to play. It goes with the whole “retrieve” part of the breed. 

Other dogs, like French Bulldogs or Boston Terriers, don’t have a clue. That doesn’t mean they can’t or shouldn’t play. It just means we have to teach them.

As part of Obedience competition, one of the exercises in the second level is fetching a dumbbell. Whether you want to play fetch in the backyard with a tennis ball, or step into the competition venue, the basics are the same:

Dog has to:

  • Wait while you throw.
  • Pay attention to the flight of the object.
  • Run to get the object.
  • Find the object on the ground.
  • Pick up the object.
  • Hold the object.
  • Run back to you while holding it.
  • Drop the object when asked.
Booker practicing retrieving his dumbbell. He was fed tiny dog training nuggets so understands every part of the behavior.
Booker the Boston Terrier understands the dumbbell retrieve – he was fed tiny dog training nuggets for this behavior!

Who would have believed there are that many steps to such a simple game? The Retriever may jump ahead to the end of the story. But the French Bulldog may have to play each step as a separate game, learning and being rewarded at each step. Breaking a behavior down into its tiniest steps is one of the building blocks of the 2-Minute Training Method, as introduced in Your 2-Minute Training Journey.

Does it take long? No. The first step, waiting while you throw, builds on your “stay” command and probably won’t take more than one or two 2-Minute games. None of the steps takes long by itself. Because you have a clear focus for the game and you know when your dog achieves the goal. 

Keep the goal in mind

The success of your 2-Minute Dog Training depends on keeping all the training game nuggets easy to digest. It’s fun to play “Take it!” with a dumbbell for two minutes. It’s horrendously dull and demotivating to do it for an hour. 

And just because the eventual game of “Fetch” is played in this order, you don’t have to play the game’s steps in that order. If your dog understands each little nugget, it doesn’t matter what order you play them. If your dog is confident in all bits of the game, he’ll always be happy to come to the training feast.

Repeating dog commands is wasting your breath

If you’re constantly repeating commands to your dog, you’re wasting your breath.

Repeating dog commands is wasting your breath

Stop it. Repeating a word or phrase isn’t enhancing your dog’s understanding. We know someone who trained their dog in Klingon. The dog was perfectly trained – as long as you spoke to it in Klingon. You could say “Sit” all day long and the dog would only do it if and when it got tired of standing up. Say Ba! and the dog’s butt would hit the floor fast as lightning.

Stop wasting your breath

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. They learn words by you pairing the word with the action and reward. When your dog sits, you say “Sit!” as you hand over the reward. Because we humans tend to say more than we have to, we also say things like “That’s Sit!” “Good Sit” “I like that Sit!” 

If you just say “Good Dog!” you’re not helping. Use the word that names the command – in this case “Sit!” Use it often. Use it whenever you see your dog doing whatever it is. Name everything in your dog’s environment, just like you would a human child. One of the reasons adults are constantly babbling to babies is to get them to recognize words before they’re able to use them. Babies can name things as soon as they understand language. Babies have heard words paired with actions or objects their whole lives.

Everybody does it

Every time we start a new beginner class we have to give the same lecture – say it once! If your dog is distracted, maybe a second time. That’s it! Dogs don’t deliberately ignore a command they understand. Either they don’t understand, or they didn’t hear it. And using your dog’s name doesn’t necessarily mean that they’ll pay attention either. 

If you think your dog has a clear understanding of the word “Sit” try this experiment. Next time you’re out with your dog, hand a dog treat to a complete stranger and ask them to tell your dog to sit. They don’t have to touch the dog, and they have to be far enough away so the dog can’t jump on them. You hold the leash. And be quiet. 

Did your dog do it? Most won’t. They don’t understand the word unless it’s in the “normal” context. Chances are, even if you’re a single-command convert, there’s a gesture you use, a position you’re in, or a motion you make that is part of the whole “Sit” routine. 

Weekly vocabulary words

We only needed to tell Daemon once to get his "yellow ball." Repeating dog commands is wasting your breath.
Daemon understood that yellow balls were different than blue balls.

We once had a dog who preferred yellow balls to balls of any other color. They weren’t tennis balls, so we’re not sure why. But it was that dog (a Boston Terrier named Daemon) who showed us that dogs could thoroughly understand words. We could be anywhere in the house and say to Daemon “Go get your yellow ball.” He wouldn’t come back until he found that particular ball – even if there were blue and red balls all over the place. 

A fun game to test the theory

If you’re skeptical, we understand. Most people don’t really think dogs can truly understand actual words. Here’s another experiment for you to try. Pick any toy that is “medium” interest level for your dog. Give it a unique name. Spend a minute playing with your dog with that toy, saying the toy’s unique name many times as you play. We’ll call it “Monkey.”  “What a sturdy monkey toy!” “Do you love your monkey?” “Go get your monkey!” “Cute monkey!”

Do this once a day. Then, at the end of a week, leave that toy in another room and tell your dog to find Monkey. You’ll be amazed.

Teach your dog “Sit to say hello!”

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if your dog would sit to say hello?

If you don’t think it’s possible, you’re probably not going to believe you can get there just by playing a little two-minute game with your dog. You may have to play it a couple of times a day for about a week. But it works and you can do it!

Easier to start fresh

Normal certainly looks different today than it did a couple of years ago. When life was “normal,” most dogs were exposed to at least a few different people on a regular basis. Friends and family would stop by, and dogs learned to take their presence in stride.

Since we’ve had pandemic restrictions on travel and visiting, many people’s and dogs’ lives are less social. If this applies to your situation, this is a great game to play with your dog. Be prepared for times when your circle expands.

Luckily, you can play the game without anybody else around. All you need is you and your dog. And treats. Lots of yummy treats. Mainly for the dog, but you probably deserve some, too!

Get your dog excited

The first step is to get your dog all excited. It may seem counter-intuitive. To teach your dog how to be controlled and calm, you would think you start there – controlled and calm. Logical, except for one thing. It doesn’t work. Starting calm doesn’t teach calm.  (Now, this is different than teaching your dog to be calm when it’s just her and the family. That’s usually a more subdued starting point.”

When the doorbell rings, or someone comes in, chances are your dog will be excited. One of the charming things about dogs is how happy they are to see us – even if all we did was take out the trash. Your normal dog is going to be wildly happy to see whoever walks in the door. The objective is to get your dog to wiggle delightedly from a sitting position. 

In our house, it doesn’t take much for chaos and mayhem to break out. For unknown reasons, knocking on the counter sets Booker off, barking and jumping around, ready for zoomies. If your dog has a similar trigger, use it. Celebrate it! Say silly things like “Yes, get crazy!” “That’s my nutsy puppy!” “Dog, you are one happy puppy!”

Okay, it’s loud. Now what?

Fran taught the dogs to sit and say hello.
The dogs are rewarded for sitting and saying “Hello!”

Once your dog is happy, excited, and you’re starting to think the neighbors will complain, reward your dog. Then be still. Don’t say anything. Don’t move. It’s like you’re playing “Red Light, Green Light” and the light turned red. Become a statue.

If your dog is like most, she won’t know what the heck happened. She will stop, look around, try to see what’s changed. And then, if she’s like most dogs, she’ll sit in front of you, puzzled. Reward! Good puppy! Nice “hello!”

Then do it again. If she didn’t sit, you can whisper the word, without moving. If she does, reward and start again! 

Teaching “Hello!”

Achieving impulse control is one of the most difficult things for dogs to learn. By playing this reversed, doggy version of “Green Light, Red Light” you’re pairing the excitement of movement with its opposite. Using the word “Hello!” will associate it to the stillness of the sit.

A good portion of dog training is vocabulary building for our dogs. Once they understand what a word means, most dogs are happy to do it. If we teach them that “Hello!” means sit still, we automatically pair greetings with good behavior.

Don’t fix your dog. Start over!

Don’t fix your dog. It’s probably not worth the effort. Instead, reimagine and start over!

In our “throw away” society, we’re used to the fact that it’s often better to buy something new than fix the old, broken thing. We’re not debating the merits of renew, reuse, recycle. We’re tree-huggers from way back. But in this case we’re looking at the issue from a strictly economic point of view. It makes no sense to pay for an appliance repair that costs more than half the price of a new unit. 

Dogs, however, are not things. They are not disposable. Our commitment to our dogs is based on emotion, not economics. Our dogs are worth the investment of our time and energy to “fix” the things that aren’t working. But instead of changing what’s already there – we’re going to reimagine and reinvent. Don’t fix your dog. Start over!

New is easier

When it comes to dog training, it’s much easier to teach your dog something new than to change an already-ingrained behavior. Habit is one of the most powerful forces in the universe and it’s tough to change. Our own habits, as well as our dogs’. But, with patience and consistency, it can be done. We talked about patience just last week with Dogs need processing time, too!

Don't fix your dog. Start over. Fran had to re-teach Tango's release cue. She didn't fix the old one, she started over with Tango's release.

Let’s talk about Tango, Fran’s now-12-year-old Brussels Griffon. He came with a myriad of issues, including overt aggression toward both people and dogs, documented in Fran’s book, Tango: Transforming My Hellhound. 

Once Tango turned the corner and was able to participate in dog sports, Fran faced an entirely different situation with him. When playing agility, both in training and in competition, Tango wouldn’t move off the start line. His “release cue” – the signal that “stay” was over and it was time to move – was broken. 

Try and try again

Fran went back to the basics of the stay and release training games. Multiple sessions with no substantial change. Tango just wasn’t responding to his long-established “go” command. 

Rather than continue in the frustrating cycle, we realized the word Fran was using had, somehow, become permanently tainted in Tango’s mind. We don’t know what caused it, or how it happened. He’s a dog. He’ll never be able to explain it. 

We fixed it by starting over. Fran chose a new word, “action,” instead of “go.” She started at the very beginning. And it worked.

Avoiding the issue

No, we didn’t fix the problem. But we found a way to work around it and made it go away. It’s much easier to try something new than to fix the broken thing, with dogs as well as appliances. Keep the dog. Toss the training that’s not working. Craft a new game to teach the “right” way to do whatever it is. 

It’s always easier to teach a dog a new skill instead of changing an old habit. Whatever your dog’s annoying behavior is, try to think about it in a different way and devise a new approach to an old problem. Don’t fix your dog. Start over! Try a different approach to the issue.

Creativity is tough

In Tango’s case it was pretty simple, just teaching a different word for a behavior he already knew. The majority of dog training is building our dogs’ vocabularies and pairing those words with actions. Most dogs really want to do what you ask. They just may not understand what it is.

That’s why training games work. In short, focused sessions you can concentrate on a single word/action and phenomenally increase your connection and understanding with your dog.

Dogs need processing time, too!

Dogs need processing time, too!

When you’re having a conversation with someone and they say something unexpected, you need a moment to switch gears. That’s what we mean by processing time. Dogs need processing time, too. A chance to let the information flow from ears, to brain, to action.

Not their native language

Remember when you’re playing dog training games – English isn’t your dog’s first language. Just like any non-native speaker, it may take a moment to translate, understand, and respond. It’s perfectly normal.

Torque starts with a sit on the stool. He needs processing time when Hope asks for a different position.

Every other day, Hope’s French Bulldog Torque does his physical fitness routine of squat, crouch, sit, and stand (in a random order) across a four-inch-high stool. Each of those instructions describes a very specific action.

  1. Squat means step off the front of the stool with your front paws and bend your back legs into sit position.
  2. Crouch is step off the back of the stool and bend your back legs into a sit position.
  3. Sit means sit with your whole self on the stool.
  4. Stand means stand, all four feet on the stool.

Each time they do this routine, Hope can tell how focused Torque is by how quickly he responds to the various commands. Some days, he’s sharp as a tack and instantly moves smoothly from one position to another.

Other days? We say he “doesn’t have his ears on” when he reacts like he’s never heard the word “sit” before. He has. Millions of times.

Processing time

Most days, however, it takes a beat or two. Torque hears the word and you can almost see the cogs meshing as he processes the information. He gets the time he needs to think it through.

Most people want their dogs to succeed, so they jump in to “help” whenever their dogs seem slow to respond. What the dog learns is to wait and let “mom” do the work. 

Like many people, dogs are essentially lazy. If someone wants to do the task for them, most dogs are more than happy to let them. The more you “help” your dog, the more helpless they become. Instead, try giving them time to process and get it right, 

Tough to remember

Being patient and just waiting is really hard. How long do you wait before you repeat the command? How long is long enough?

The answer depends on the dog and you. The best way to tell is to watch your dog and see if he/she is still trying and thinking, or if they’ve checked out on the task. 

When dogs don’t understand what’s being asked, they tend to look for ways to escape.  Wandering away, looking away, barking, jumping, scratching, are all ways dogs have of telling us they don’t know. They’re confused and uncomfortable. 

If you consistently get this reaction for a particular game, go back to an earlier step in the training. Even if it’s back to the beginning – that’s okay. Sometimes we all need refreshers on stuff we used to know.

Learning a foreign language

Your dog is learning a foreign language. Just like people, younger dogs tend to learn faster than adult dogs. It doesn’t mean that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. 

It just means they need a bit more time to process. Translating what you say into actions they perform is a small miracle our dogs achieve each and every day. It’s no wonder dogs need processing time. Give it to them.

Top 10 tips for dog training

End of Session

Booker and his dog training school essentials. We used the Top 10 tips for dog training with Booker at school.
Booker’s first day of school – long ago. The Top 10 tips for dog training came in handy!

This week marks the end of the first session of in-person dog training classes in 18 months. Our Beginner students have come so far, and we’re so proud of them. We developed this list of Top 10 Tips for dog training to remind them of things we’ve worked on. It’s hard to take notes when you’re supposed to be paying attention to your dog!

The Top 10:

  1. Focus on your dog for the entire training session. Your dog gets all your attention the entire time. Just as you don’t want your dog to misbehave, you don’t want to miss any “good stuff” that should be rewarded. If “good” looks the same as “naughty,” the devil will win every time. 
  2. Keep it short, fast, and fun. Dog training isn’t an endurance event. Both your and your dog’s attention spans are limited. (See #1.) That’s why we call it 2-Minute-Training. Two minutes at a time may be too short – but 15 minutes is too long for most dogs. Neither one of you can or should maintain intense focus for that long.
  3. Ignore the stuff you don’t like. The more attention you pay to barking, mouthing, jumping, biting, etc. the more your dog will do it. Your dog thinks you’re playing the game. Dogs don’t distinguish between “bad” and “good” attention. They just know you’re engaging with them, which they love.
  4. Pay your dog. Every single time. Especially when they’re just learning. If you worry about your dog getting fat from an abundance of treats – use their meals as training treats. There’s nothing special about dog food in a bowl. Dog food from your hand makes it very special! (You might enjoy the article about your dog’s reward bank.)
  5. When you are in motion with your dog, always reward from the hand closest to the dog. If your dog crosses in front of you to get the treat, they will trip you. It will hurt.
  6. Do not repeat commands. If your dog doesn’t understand “Sit!,” they’re not going to understand “sit, sit, sit, Sit, SIt, SIT, SIT!” If they don’t do it the first time, either you don’t have the dog’s attention, or the dog doesn’t understand the word. 
  7. Build your dog’s vocabulary. Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. Your job is to teach those words. When you are teaching a new word, like “bed!,” stand by the bed, look at the bed, and when the dog shows interest in the bed say “good bed!” and throw a treat in the bed. Repeating the word pairs the object (or action) with its name. Infants learn language through constant repetition, even before they’re verbal. Dogs can learn the same way.  
  8. If you’re in a bad mood, angry with your dog, frustrated, or cranky it’s not a good time for a training session. The only exception is if training your dog is your happy place and you can put everything else aside for the 2-Minute session. 
  9. There’s no such thing as too many training sessions. If you want to play training games with your dog for two minutes every hour – go for it! More is better in this case. Try to get in at least one or two sessions every day. If you don’t have two minutes to play with your dog most days, you shouldn’t have a dog.
  10. Don’t hurt your dog. There’s no popping the leash, pushing on hips, choking of dogs in positive reinforcement training. We are teaching our dogs how to make good choices. Dogs should approach every training game session with joy and anticipation. Tails should be wagging. 

Bonus: Beginner Training Games:

Breaking your dog’s feedback loop

Dogs, just like people, tend to get caught in patterns of behavior. What is your dog’s feedback loop?

For many dogs it starts with frustration when they don’t know what they’re supposed to do. And the behavior manifests as barking. Pretty soon, unless you have a way of breaking the loop, whenever your dog is frustrated he/she will resort to barking. 

Untying your dog’s feedback loop

Teddy was barking uncontrollably - his feedback loop. Sitting on the kitchen chair. I turned my back on him.

The saying “if you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you always got.” Absolutely true. If you always say “Quiet!” (loudly) when your dog starts barking, it’s become his/her cue to bark. You’re fueling the loop, rather than interrupting it. (We talked about this before, in our post, “Yes, Your Dog is Your Baby.”)

To turn the barking into an actual trick, with your dog able to perform on command, stop and play the barking game. Click and say “Good Bark!.” Chances are, if you’ve always tried to stifle the behavior, your dog will be startled by the click and try to figure out what he was doing that was rewarded.

If your dog barks again, either click and reward to reinforce it as a new trick, or turn your back and walk away. When your dog follows you quietly, click and say “Good Quiet!”And if he barks, click and say “Good Bark!” 

Of course you can use whatever words you want instead of “Quiet” and “Bark.” Just remember to be consistent.

Alternative to the loop

If you just want your dog to be quiet, there are other ways to interrupt. Reel her in and, if your dog is small enough, pick her up and give her a hug. If you have a big dog, drop down on your knees and hug her. 

Do something unexpected, so your dog is paying attention to you, rather than being caught in the established routine. If your dog knows a palm touch, switch into that game. If the dog is being truly incorrigible, put down all the training gear; clicker, treats, leash, etc. and just leave the vicinity. That’s it. You’re done. 

Breaking the bargain

Remember that dog training games are the bargain we make with our dogs. They get what they want when we get what we want. If they’re not interested in keeping up their side of the bargain – we don’t have to play. A little cold-shoulder can result in a remarkable change in attitude.

Refusing to play with you is disrespectful and rude. One of the results of playing dog-training games is improved manners and confidence in your dog. It’s up to you to reject the lack of respect your dog is showing when he/she ignores you. Denying your dog your attention and “face time” usually works to remind them of your partnership. You are the senior partner. You decide the game. 

Other loops

One of the most common “feedback loops” in dog training happens when agility dogs are learning or practicing the weave pole obstacle. It’s a series of 12 poles in a straight line and, as named, the dog’s job is to weave in and out between the poles. There’s a right way to do that. 

Many dogs, both learners and veterans, occasionally get caught doing it wrong. And are seemingly unable to break out of the pattern. 

The only way to get the dog’s head back in the game is to stop. Take a break. Refocus. Try again, either in a few minutes or at another time altogether. We all have days when our focus is off.

If your dog is just experiencing a lack of focus, don’t worry about it. Just break it off, do something else. Try again later. This isn’t an entrenched loop, but a momentary lapse.

Upward curve

Dog training doesn’t go in a straight, upward line. There are ups and downs, good days and not-so-good. The general trend should be towards your goal, whatever that may be. If you find yours going in loops, it’s time for a change.