2-minute tip Archives - Page 16 of 28

Never too many dog training treats

There is no such thing as too many dog treats. Especially when introducing your dog to something new, there can’t be too many rewards. It’s one of the best investments you can make – whether your dog is learning to eliminate outside, or being calm when someone comes in the house, there are never too many dog training treats.

But my dog will get fat!

Every class session there’s a student who worries about their dog getting fat. While we understand the concern, there are ways of controlling your dog’s calories without cutting back on training treats. Use the dog’s regular food for training! Why not? Your dog would love getting food from you instead of a bowl. It will take longer to eat, and you both accomplish something.

If your dog isn’t crazy about their food, try mixing in tidbits of some delicacy to make it more appealing. Measure out their regular portion and stir in some bits of hot dog or cheese. Most dogs love those. One student in our classes even used defrosted, popcorn shrimp. Her dog loved it and the other dogs in class got very good at working despite the distracting smells.

More calorie-friendly tips

There are lots of ways to control your dog’s intake without cutting back on quantities. Every good choice your dog makes deserves a reward. That reward can be a carrot slice, or a green bean. It could even be air-popped popcorn! Most dogs adore it.

Your dog may have a different opinion on things we don’t consider treats; rice cakes, diced celery, apple pieces are all possibilities. If it’s safe for dogs to consume, it’s worth trying. You never know what surprising food item your dog will go crazy for.

But my dog has tummy trouble

This week we talked to a woman whose 16-week-old puppy is on prescription canned food. Per the veterinarian’s advice, he can’t have anything else for a time. After our talk, she’s getting creative. Taking that icky, smelly, gooey canned food and scooping pea-sized “meatballs.” She’s freezing them and using them for training treats.

With a little thought and problem-solving, you can find a way to reward your dog for every single good choice she makes.

Does it have to be food?

Rewards for your dog can be anything the dog enjoys. (A while ago we discussed the various methods of rewarding your dog.) If your dog’s favorite thing in the world (other than you) is a tennis ball, throw the ball as a reward! If it’s a scratch behind the ears, do that. Just acknowledge every single good decision your dog makes. Even if it’s just a “Good Dog!” By itself, praise isn’t usually enough to encourage dogs to repeat a behavior. But interspersed with more substantial treats, it’s fine.

Some people are still stuck in the old-school idea that “Because I said so!” should compel obedience from dogs. It generally doesn’t work with children, and it certainly doesn’t motivate dogs to obey. The idea of positive reinforcement training is to get your dog to understand “good” behavior. The stuff that’s rewarded will be repeated. If there’s no reward, there’s no reason to do it again.

Transfer of value

Once you and your dog have developed a training game habit, you’ll find your dog eager to play training games with you for the sheer fun of it. When that happens, you can randomize rewards. Instead of rewarding each step in a sequence, a treat for “job well done!” is enough.

The game itself becomes the reward for your dog. Having your complete attention and focus, even if it’s only for 2-Minutes, is enough to make your dog happy. They learn, your relationship deepens, you understand each other better. Life with your dog improves with every reward delivered.

Show off your dog tricks

There are lots of reasons to train your dog to do tricks (see last week’s tip and our earlier article: Dog trick training – how to & why!), but once your dog knows them – what do you do with dog tricks?

Saved for posterity

Booker knows a lot of dog tricks. He and Fran have earned titles showing them off.

These days, there are lots of options. Impress your friends, family, and the all those eyes on social media with your videos. Entertain everyone at any in-person gatherings. And maybe best of all – have your partnership with your dog permanently part of history by achieving a title for your dog.

What’s a “title” anyway?

Most people have heard of the American Kennel Club (AKC), maybe having seen a dog show on television. What many don’t realize is that the AKC is a registry – it keeps track of everything dog for all AKC events. And while your dog may not have a fancy pedigree – “all-American” dogs (mixed breeds) are welcome in all the dog events except the “beauty pageants” (conformation).

Those events include something for every dog person – Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Therapy, Lure Coursing, and more. Most relevant to this column? “Trick Dog.”

Yes, your dog can earn a title for performing tricks on video. And you don’t have to go anywhere! The AKC accepts video submissions. All the details are available on the website: https://www.akc.org/sports/trick-dog/about-trick-dog/

Dog tricks galore

The 10 tricks your dog needs to perform for the Novice Title are probably things they already do – or can easily learn in just a few 2-Minute sessions. Things like spin, or hold something for three seconds, jump through a hoop, kiss, shake hands, etc. Your dog can do any of that!

And aside from the certificate you’ll get to acknowledge your dog’s achievement, there’s an intangible extra that matters.

As long as the AKC exists, your partnership with your dog will be part of history. Anyone ever looking at the history of your breed, or Trick Dogs, will know that you and your dog were part of a team.

It matters

Forever after, there is a record of what a good dog you have. How you had fun together and respected each other. You learned together and became a team that was able to accomplish more than 99 percent of dog owners. Because you cared about each other, played together, learned to adapt to each other.

And you had fun doing it.

Top 10 reasons to play dog training games

Torque holding cardboard tube. So cute! This is why we play dog training games. — Look at that face! That’s why we play dog training games!

We’re always surprised when people we assume are “dog people” don’t play dog training games regularly. It’s great for both dogs and people and so much a part of our lives that we sometimes forget that not everybody is convinced. Even people we thought would be on board.

Our dog obedience club rents space at a doggy day care in the area. The timing overlaps a bit with the daycare operation, so we’ve gotten to know some of the employees. This week Hope was showing a dog training game video to one who claims to be a dog trainer. She was shocked when he asked “Why do you bother with that?”

The why of it all

It’s a valid question. Why do we bother with dog training games? There are so many reasons it’s difficult to list them all, but here are the top 10:

Reasons to play dog training games:

It’s fun. Especially if you stick to the time limits. We call it 2-Minute-Dog-Training, but we usually stretch it to five, since we get to play with our dogs. Once you start playing, and see how much the dog enjoys it, how much they can learn, and how eager they are to play, it’s addictively fun.
It grows your relationship with your dog. Some dogs may be a bit aloof, or more independent. Even these dogs become better companions through dog training games. They look to their people for direction, for feedback, and for rewards, be it a tidbit or food, a scratch, or a “good dog!”
You evolve into a better teacher. When you realize that your dog, who doesn’t speak your language, is learning what you’re teaching, it’s a revelation. You’re able to connect, even without a common tongue.
Your patience grows. We’ve talked before about how hard it is to just wait and do nothing while your dog tries to figure something out. Doing nothing to “help” is tough. But growing your patience with dog training helps your relationships with people, too.
Your dog, and you, both learn to be better problem solvers. Just the practice of breaking things down into small steps helps change your approach to almost any problem. Seeing the trees, as well as the forest, helps you develop workable solutions.
Dog training games require lots of dog energy. Thinking is hard work for your dog. It’s fun, but it does require focus and concentration, which are tiring. A few minutes playing dog training games is as tiring for your dog as miles of walking, or a half hour of “fetch.” Even high-energy dogs usually need a nap after an intense dog training game.
Training games add variety to your dog’s life. You don’t play the same game every day. There’s always the excitement of anticipation for your dog when you start a session – “What will we play today?” Even if you play more than once a day (you should!), it’s never the same game twice in a row.
You learn your dog’s preferences, strengths, and weaknesses. Some dogs love “finding” stuff. Others love carrying things. Or it may be a combination, like “hide and seek,” or “put your toys away.” And they have particular favorites: Booker loves “putting away” soft foam blocks. Torque prefers cardboard tubes.
You and your dog become more creative. You can make up games that only you and your dog know the rules for. We noticed that Simon loves stacking things in the bin when he plays “put your toys away.” So we’ve started a new Simon game – stack the blocks.
Playing dog training games enriches both your lives. Sure, you could sit on the couch and watch TV together. And that’s fun, too. But it’s even better after a short, fun, dog training game session. Because you did something good for both of you, enjoyed each other’s company, gained respect for your dog’s capabilities, and shared your commitment to each other.

Get up and play

Booker loves to play with his foam blocks and put them "away." — Booker loves to carry foam blocks and put them “away.”

Frankly, we don’t know why anyone wouldn’t play dog training games. In addition to all the other stuff, the videos are fun to watch – whether you’re remembering what a good time you had, or showing off your dog’s skills to someone else.

We think everyone with a dog should commit a few minutes a day to giving attention to their dog. While it’s understandable to skip a day here and there, a 2-Minute Dog Training Game is a minimal ask. And if someone isn’t willing to focus on their dog a couple minutes a day, we wonder why they have a dog at all.

Forbidden fruit is sweetest

There’s a streak in all of us that’s a bit rebellious. The thing you’re absolutely not supposed to do is the most appealing option. It’s true for dogs, too. Forbidden fruit is sweetest.

As an example: There’s a narrow little walkway next to the unattached garage that goes back to the alley. We’ve gated it off at the edge of the garage – there’s no reason the dogs have to line up at that back portion to watch/bark at the people walking their dogs down the alley.

It’s just a little path, no more than a couple of feet wide. There’s nothing interesting back there – just the pooper scooper and bucket, the walk, and some edging stones. Absolutely nothing to fascinate dogs.

But it’s the best thing/place/activity

Naturally, the dogs became obsessed with getting behind that gate. Our normally gate-respecting dogs got it into their heads that the citadel must be breached! So they did. Battered right through the gate to go sniffing around.

The first, and totally natural reaction, is to yell for them to get out of there, get a bit angry, grab their collars and haul them back to the “safe” zone. That would have worked – for the moment.

But it also would have emphasized the space as important – something that got them all kinds of attention. Remember – dogs don’t distinguish between “good” attention and “bad” attention. They have your focus, and that’s their favorite thing.

Still the hardest thing

Simon and Booker, far away from the forbidden but attractive gate

Instead, we worked to make the area as uninteresting as possible. We opened the gate wide and went to the other side of the yard where we proceeded to reward any dog who decided to come with us to the “good” side. By ignoring the naughty behavior, we changed it from “attractive” to “boring.”

It still goes against natural instinct. When we see a miscreant doing something they shouldn’t, we absolutely want to call them on it. But again – that’s drawing attention to the thing. A while back we wrote about the hardest part of dog training: patience! Patience pays in all aspects of training!

It took a few tries, but that gate and area have lost the dogs’ interest and they’re on to new and different ways to push our buttons.

People love forbidden fruit, too

It’s a reminder of how similarly human and canine minds work. Back in the day, many of our friends’ parents kept their liquor cabinets locked. And our friends plotted ways to get into those cabinets and into trouble. It was a “thing.”

Our house worked a little differently. The liquor was always accessible on a shelf. It was no big deal. On the rare occasion that the adults in the house had a cocktail, we asked for a taste and were given one. For the most part, we found the taste nasty and would happily go back to our own “special” drinks. It was a rare treat to have a soda and we thoroughly enjoyed our Canfield’s 50/50 for cocktail hour.

Dogs’ minds work very much like ours. If you make something “off limits” it can become more attractive. You’ll find that bright, inquiring little mind obsessing over things they oughtn’t. A better alternative is to minimize the importance so it loses its attraction.

It’s an example of how doing nothing is so important, and so difficult. Our attitude, attention, posture, and focus all communicate to our dogs. If we focus on the “bad” stuff, our dogs will, too. Instead, communicate clearly with your dog by rewarding them with good timing and good placement. If you want your dog away from that gate – go away from that gate and reward when they come with you.

Doggie see, doggie do – dogs learn from other dogs

Dogs are sponges. They watch, and absorb. And dogs learn from other dogs, as well as from people.

One of the great things about having multiple dogs is that they do learn from each other. It’s easier to housebreak a puppy when you have an older, housebroken dog. The puppy copies what the older dog does. Same thing with the household routine. If the already-trained dog waits to go out the door until it’s allowed, the puppy will figure out the rules, too.

Idol worship

Dogs learn from dogs - baby Booker is with his idol Tango in a small dog bed. — Baby Booker emulates his idol Tango – dogs learn from dogs.

It helps if the older dog is puppy-friendly and likes having the little one around. They will be more tolerant of puppy shenanigans, and actively teach the puppy what’s okay and what’s not. When the play gets too rough, you may see the older dog holding the puppy down. It’s entirely appropriate and teaches the pup when enough is enough.

Puppies tend to be single-mindedly selfish little creatures. They want what they want when they want it. If they see another dog waiting patiently for food or other desirable thing, they’ll learn to emulate that behavior. However, for everyone’s safety, we do recommend separating, even crating the puppy for feeding time. This has the dual benefit of teaching the puppy that crates are good, and making sure the older dog won’t feel they have to guard a valuable resource like food. The older dog will probably also appreciate a chance to relax and enjoy his meal without worry.

Flip side of the coin

Dogs learn all kinds of wonderful things by watching other dogs. Ours seem to absorb the training games we play just by watching. When it’s their turn, they jump right in, seeming to know stuff we don’t remember teaching.

The downside is that puppies also absorb all the things you’d rather they wouldn’t, too. And they tend to learn the “bad” stuff even more quickly than the good stuff.

If you have one dog that barks at any movement on your street, the puppy will probably develop the same habit, too. To avoid perpetuating the cycle, you have to take an active role. Because it’s almost impossible to train two dogs at the same time, you must set your priority.

Barking up a storm

In the barking example – if the dog has been doing it for any length of time, it’s going to take a concerted, consistent effort to change the habit. Rather than trying to “fix” the older dog’s behavior, it’s simpler to avoid the situation with the puppy. By nature, some dogs are “better” watchdogs than others, but all can become barkers.

When the older dog barks, the puppy will probably run to see what’s going on. To show they’re being a good student, they may even join the barking, without even knowing why.

Instead of yelling at everyone to “be quiet!” – call the puppy and run the other way. Find a toy and start playing. Turn the other dog’s bark into a reason to come to you! If you’re a lot of fun and your game plan is exciting, you may even get the older dog to join the fun, rather than persist in barking. (We discussed another way of “breaking the feedback loop” a little while ago.

Timing is never good

There’s never really a “good” time to get another dog. Life has a way of interrupting plans. If you’re considering adding another dog to your family, it’s best to be ready when the opportunity presents.

To get ready – take an honest look at the dog you already have. Are there any behaviors or habits that you’d hate for a puppy to develop? If so, now is the time to teach your present dog to be better. Develop a plan, setting the goal you want to achieve. Then back-chain the steps you need to take to get there. Turn each step into a training game.

With a plan in place and a goal in mind, even if the puppy doesn’t show up at your doorstep, the dog you have will benefit from training games. You’ll both be happier.

Dogs don’t grow out of bad habits

If your puppy or dog has developed a bad habit, we have some bad news for you. He’s not going to grow out of bad habits or give them up.

Dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. If they’re getting their jollies from doing something naughty they’re going to keep doing it. Unless you provide a more rewarding option. It’s as simple as that.

Stealing socks

This labrador puppy will not grow out of bad habits. — Yes, he’s cute, but dogs don’t grow out of bad habits.

One of the puppies in our Beginner Obedience class steals socks. It started when he was little and grabbing socks off the floor. Now he’s a 60-lb., eight-month-old, powerful Lab and he’s grabbing socks from the drawer when his mom opens it.

Unless something changes, we expect his next move will be learning to open the drawer by himself.

Mom, a first-time dog owner, asked in class “But isn’t he going to grow out of it?”

No. No, he’s not. He thinks that the whole process, sneaking up beside Mom when she opens the drawer, grabbing the sock, taking off with his prize, and being chased all over, is a fantastic game. Why would he change it?

Better alternative

Because this is an established routine, Mom is going to have to work a bit harder to get it to stop. The first step is to find another game that’s even more fun. It can be as simple as finding an actual toy to play tug with while you get your socks.

Or you can take the opportunity to play “Whatcha Gonna Do?” and teach the dog to leave the sock drawer (food on the counter, garbage can, etc.) alone.

Be prepared

Have treats handy – either in a bowl out of reach, a pouch or fanny pack, (hardware store nail aprons are good dog-training-treat holders). When you’re near the sock drawer, just stand there and wait for the dog to do something good. If he sits, click and treat.

Reach for the drawer. Wait for a good decision. Click and treat.

Open the drawer slightly. Be ready to either close the drawer or click and treat good choices.

Step by step, wait for your dog to make good decisions. It will teach him how to behave in almost any circumstance. Your dog will learn that it’s more rewarding to ask for permission than forgiveness.

It may take longer than imposing your will, but it will work better for everyone in the long run. Teaching your dog to make good decisions translates to every aspect of life. From stealing socks to counter-surfing, as we wrote about a few months back.

Habit persists

Habit is one of the more powerful forces in the universe. And changing a bad habit requires determination. Dogs don’t grow out of bad habits, but they can change.

Until the new, good behavior takes the place of the naughty one, it’s up to us to manage the environment so the dog can’t practice bad behavior. A mistake or two isn’t the end of the world, but it will take progress back a notch or two.

Be patient, go step-by-step, and schedule a few extra minutes to get dressed in the morning. It’s worth it.

Sign Language of Dogs

Do you realize that dogs can understand motions as commands? That’s their “sign language.” At the upper tier of obedience competition, there’s even a behavior, called the “signal exercise” where all the owner can do is motion to their dog. They can’t talk, they can’t move, other than one hand/arm. It’s amazing to watch and even more fun to teach!

Part of the package

Hope is signalling Simon "Touch" with her palm toward him at face level. — Every time Simon sees a palm at face level, he bashes his nose into it: “Touch!”

Most people don’t even realize that they’re signaling their dogs through their motions and their words. Just about every dog owner on the planet will point at the floor when teaching their dog to “down!” It doesn’t mean anything to the dog, but everyone does it. It’s our instinct at play – if we want the dog down on the floor, we point at the floor.

Eventually, if people practice and are consistent, most dogs eventually understand that we mean “down” when we point at the floor. Interestingly, the obedience signal that most people use for “down” is the arm going straight up from the shoulder, not towards the floor at all. We’d guess that’s because we want to make sure the dog can see the motion from 30 (or more) feet away in competition.

There’s nothing wrong with pairing words and motions when communicating with your dog. The point is to realize that you’re doing it. And that, if you do the same thing the same way all the time, your dog will inevitably associate the two – word and motion.

Conscious uncoupling

It’s always a bit of a shock to our beginner students when we ask them to stand up straight, not move, and tell their dogs to “Sit.” Rarely do any of the dogs get it right. Because every single person came into class absolutely convinced their dogs knew the word “Sit.” You can see people almost twitching to point at their dogs’ butts, or dangle a treat over their heads. That sign language of dogs, along with the words, combined to form “Sit!”

It’s a good idea to “uncouple” the sign language and the words. Having your dog understand either one, or both together, means that there’s no situation in which you can’t communicate with your dog. If you’re in a very loud space, or far away, your dog may not hear you, but can see. Or you may be someplace where it’s just not feasible to point at the ground to get a “Down.”

Another kitchen game

Try playing “Puppy Pushups” with your dog (we talked about “Puppy Pushups” a few weeks ago). Start by using both your “sign language” and your words. After just a couple of repetitions, try leaving out the motion. Or the words. See how your dog does. In a familiar game context, your dog will probably catch on quickly. When your dog gets it right about 80 percent of the time, increase the distance between you and your dog. Will she do it from five feet away? 10? How about across the street? With just your words? Only on the signs?

It doesn’t really matter which words, or signals, you use. Pick something you’re comfortable with, that you’ll easily remember. If you want to use the same motions that are most common in Obedience Competition, check out the exercises from the 2019 AKC Obedience Classic. (The Signal Exercise is right after the heeling.) Most “handlers” use the same signals and it will give you a chance to see them and their amazing dogs in action.

Dog training shouldn’t hurt

Decades ago, it was commonly thought punishment was necessary to dog training. That dogs wouldn’t understand, or obey, unless they were forced. When you know better, you do better. We now know that dog training shouldn’t hurt.

Positive reinforcement dog training isn’t permissive – dogs aren’t allowed to do whatever they want whenever they want to do it. But it also isn’t punishing. If you ever enlist the help of a dog trainer who advocates the use of either “corrections” or “punishment,” run away.

But the old ways worked

Maybe so. But punishment is never a long-term solution to any problem. In studying human psychology, also applicable to dogs, the problems with punishment include:

It only tells you what not to do. There’s no guidance.
It creates fear, which may lead to
Increased aggression.
The behavior which triggered the punishment is not forgotten. It’s suppressed and can return when the punishment is absent.

In force-based training, when a puppy had an “accident” in the house, the advice was to “rub the dog’s nose in it,” while yelling “No!” This didn’t teach the puppy not to mess in the house. It taught them not to let you find the mess. So they got sneaky about it, instead of learning not to do it. There was a major interrupt between what was being taught, and what was learned.

Not spiteful creatures

Dogs are really honest beings. They’re not spiteful, or vengeful, or “mad.” They simply don’t understand the “right” thing to do because they don’t know what it is. A classic example is the dog who might urinate on the owner’s bed when left alone. That dog isn’t angry at being left alone. He’s anxious and stressed because he hasn’t been taught how to cope with separation.

Positive reinforcement training, as 2-Minute-Trainers teach, is building the dog’s understanding so she can make good decisions when faced with unfamiliar situations. If your dog has been taught to rely on you for guidance and feedback, she’s less likely to make poor choices on her own.

Purely positive is a myth

Realistically, it’s impossible to never use “aversives” in dog training. Since the definition of “aversive” includes anything the dog doesn’t like, even the mildest could qualify. Something as simple as walking away from a dog that’s barking at you can be viewed as aversive, since the dog doesn’t like it.

Getting technical, it’s called “Negative Punishment” – removing something the dog wants (you) in order to decrease behavior. In the four quadrants of Operant Conditioning, “negative punishment” is the pair to “positive reinforcement”- like giving a treat for a prompt response to “Sit!”

For the most humane, and effective dog training, we use only these. Reward what you like, ignore what you don’t.

Not the fastest method

We know that in today’s world we all want what we want when we want it. But dogs learn at their own pace. If we’re patient and consistent, our dogs can learn whatever we choose to teach them. Step by step, teaching then testing their comprehension. Some things your dog will get almost instantly. Others take a while. Some things will require that you find a different way of explaining things. It’s worth it.

Simon's "Stand" required a new way of explaining what was required. But force was never involved. Dog training shouldn't hurt. — Simon, not standing.

Fran’s 3-year-old Boston Terrier Simon was always crouching when asked to “Stand!” He’s almost ready for competition obedience, but the “Stand for Exam” was holding them back. He associated “Stand” with a weird little half-sit, instead of the proper position.

He just wasn’t getting it. So Fran found a different word, and a different way of explaining it to him. After only a couple of sessions, his “Station!” looks like a proud show dog stance, instead of a wobbly squat.

Dog training shouldn’t hurt

We do know some old-school trainers who pretend to be positive, and are anything but. They’ll give their dog a collar “pop” correction while saying sweetly “Good dog!” The dog rarely hears “Good dog!” when it gets things right the first time. This dog’s tail is never wagging happily. Instead, you see the slow, steady sweep of fearful appeasement.

Your dog shouldn’t be afraid to get things wrong. They should know that as long as they try, the worst that can happen is there’s no reward. Which is a signal to try again, try something else. Positively-trained dogs keep going. Because it doesn’t hurt to be wrong.

What to do when your dog plays keep away

Puppies are notorious for playing keep away. They grab stuff off the ground and run off with it. Lots of dogs retain the habit. When your dog plays keep away it’s a bad thing – for everyone.

The puppy could have something toxic, or that he could choke on. And everyone’s first instinct is to grab whatever it is. Which can get you bitten, or cause the puppy to shy away from you when you chase him to retrieve the thing.

What’s the alternative?

The puppy we’ve been fostering since the beginning of July is notorious for hoarding sticks and rocks. It’s the first thing he does when he gets out the door. He checks out his stash and picks something to carry around and chew on.

All of his beloved “outside toys” are carefully inspected. He’s only allowed to keep rocks too large to swallow, and sticks that are thick and flexible. And none of them are allowed inside.

He knows this. Sometimes he’s reluctant to drop it, even when he wants to come back in the house. He’ll dash away from the door, an initial bout of keep away.

Avoiding the “keep away” game

Charging after a puppy who’s run off with contraband is never a good idea. The best way to catch a pup is to have them chase you. So the first game to try is “Catch Me If You Can” – run away calling the dog’s name.

Most can’t resist the chase, especially if you make it exciting. Yell, clap, run heavy so your shoes slap down. If you’re interesting enough, the puppy will even drop the contraband. They forget about the “thing” in the excitement of a new game. (Our 2-Minute Trainer Book 2: Come! includes detailed instructions for the “Catch Me If You Can” game.)

Distract them with play

Any game your dog loves to play should work as a good distraction. “Catch Me” is the most exciting, but it’s not the only arrow in the quiver. Our foster puppy’s favorite game is “Touch.”

A hand touch is a great behavior that can help when your dog plays keep away. — Simon is demonstrating the “Touch” game – great for when your dog plays keep away

We play “Touch” a lot with our dogs because it’s the easiest to use in any situation. All you need is you and some treats. It can be quiet and calm, or it can be active and exciting. That’s determined by you – how vigorously are you moving? How is your voice pitched? You don’t have to be loud – even a whisper can be exciting.

Practical application

When we want Mister foster puppy to drop the “thing” and come to us, we show him the palm of our hand and say “Touch!” He knows that every single touch earns him a treat. When he gets going he looks like a chicken bobbing for seed, shoving that muzzle into our hand.

It works. He forgets about that day’s rock, or stick, and comes running over to play his favorite game. Puppy loves playing, so he gets what he wants – a chance to play and treats. And we get what we want – the puppy comes to us.

Building the basis

You can start playing “Touch” today. Two minutes a day and it will become a valued part of your dog’s repertoire pretty quickly. How much your dog loves the game depends on you. Decide you love it. What could possibly be cuter than your dog sticking his face in your hand? Reward promptly, for every touch, with incredibly yummy treats. Make sure that your dog is really planting that muzzle in your palm. No waving the nose at your fingers! And the reward should be as close to your palm, and your dog’s muzzle, as possible. Your reward will be having a “go-to” game you can play anywhere.

We pull out the “Touch” game whenever our dogs are nervous. If we’re at the veterinarian’s office and they’re not sure, it’s a perfect time. Or anywhere they’ve never been before and they’re unsure.

It’s also a great game to distract your dog when they see something on a walk that’s completely caught their attention. It could be a squirrel, skunk, or even another dog that’s staring at them. When you need your dog to focus on you, it’s time to pull out your palm and get them facing a different direction.

Don’t grab and go

If you have a dog or puppy who’s a “snatch and run” criminal, whether it’s shoes in the house, or icky stuff outside, it is important to act quickly. Dogs seem to chew and swallow incredibly quickly when it’s something they know they shouldn’t have.

And it’s fighting your every instinct to not dash over, grab the dog, and do a finger sweep of their mouth. If you succumb to that temptation, your dog will learn to run away, hide the contraband, and avoid you at all costs.

Having a go-to game, like “Touch” will take the stress out of the situation. It’s a win/win. Your dog gets to play a game they love. And you get your dog to drop the thing.

Dog training nuggets are easy to digest

Dog training nuggets work best. Not chunks. Not whole banquets. Little bittie morsels of fun that let you enjoy moments with your dog. It’s playing structured demi-games that have the side benefit of bettering your bond and building their understanding.

Too big a chunk of anything will choke you. Even if it’s your most favorite food in the universe (chocolate!), you won’t enjoy too big a bite. And chances are, it’ll color your future impression of that food if you couldn’t digest it last time.

Components are key

Most people don’t realize how complex even simple behaviors are until they’re asked to break them apart. Take a simple dog game like “Fetch.” Lots of dogs, especially Retrievers, seem born knowing how to play. It goes with the whole “retrieve” part of the breed.

Other dogs, like French Bulldogs or Boston Terriers, don’t have a clue. That doesn’t mean they can’t or shouldn’t play. It just means we have to teach them.

As part of Obedience competition, one of the exercises in the second level is fetching a dumbbell. Whether you want to play fetch in the backyard with a tennis ball, or step into the competition venue, the basics are the same:

Dog has to:

Wait while you throw.
Pay attention to the flight of the object.
Run to get the object.
Find the object on the ground.
Pick up the object.
Hold the object.
Run back to you while holding it.
Drop the object when asked.

Booker practicing retrieving his dumbbell. He was fed tiny dog training nuggets so understands every part of the behavior. — Booker the Boston Terrier understands the dumbbell retrieve – he was fed tiny dog training nuggets for this behavior!

Who would have believed there are that many steps to such a simple game? The Retriever may jump ahead to the end of the story. But the French Bulldog may have to play each step as a separate game, learning and being rewarded at each step. Breaking a behavior down into its tiniest steps is one of the building blocks of the 2-Minute Training Method, as introduced in Your 2-Minute Training Journey.

Does it take long? No. The first step, waiting while you throw, builds on your “stay” command and probably won’t take more than one or two 2-Minute games. None of the steps takes long by itself. Because you have a clear focus for the game and you know when your dog achieves the goal.

Keep the goal in mind

The success of your 2-Minute Dog Training depends on keeping all the training game nuggets easy to digest. It’s fun to play “Take it!” with a dumbbell for two minutes. It’s horrendously dull and demotivating to do it for an hour.

And just because the eventual game of “Fetch” is played in this order, you don’t have to play the game’s steps in that order. If your dog understands each little nugget, it doesn’t matter what order you play them. If your dog is confident in all bits of the game, he’ll always be happy to come to the training feast.