Category: 2-minute tip

Dealing with distractions in dog training

There are always going to be real-world distractions in dog training. It’s how you cope with them that matters.

You never know when “SQUIRREL!” will cross your path. But you can prepare your dog to deal with distractions.

Fran and Simon, her 3-year-old Boston Terrier, competed in his second agility trial recently. It was a familiar environment – the same place they have weekly classes. The obstacles and jumps were ones he knows. And yet – he was completely distracted. Why? There were people in the ring with him! 

In agility, volunteers are dispersed around the field to pick up dropped bars, reset jump heights, etc. to keep agility trials moving efficiently. But Simon had never seen people sitting on chairs in the ring before. So he felt compelled to go and say “Hi!” to all of them.

Distraction dog training

Dogs, like Simon, are going to notice things. That’s their nature. You can’t stop your dog from seeing and hearing the world around them. What you can do is show them how to stay focused despite distractions. 

Fran and Simon are training for distractions.
Simon’s paying attention to Fran instead of the distractions around.

How is Simon going to learn to pay attention to Fran (and what he’s supposed to be doing) instead of visiting? This week in class, she’s going to ask her classmates to pretend to be those trial volunteers. And she’s going to be more fun than people sitting quietly in chairs. When Simon goes to say “Hi!,” those classmates are going to sit still and look anywhere but at Simon. Fran’s going to run away from Simon (triggering his chase instinct and his inherent curiosity), calling him. And when he comes dashing after her, she’s  going to reward him mightily. And then they’ll continue running their agility practice.

The real-world application is the same. 

How to train for distractions

The key is right there. Be more interesting than the distraction. Our students are often hesitant about being noisy, or playing with toys, or over-rewarding their dogs in class. People are taught to not be “disruptive” or make a fuss in public.

Get over it. Your dog isn’t going to pay attention if you’re boring. And, realistically, no one’s paying attention to you, anyway. They’re watching your dog. What they see in your dog is up to you. They can admire the cute, well-trained dog with you. Or they can “tsk” and shake their heads over the poorly-behaving hooligan.

Time & patience

It’s really difficult for people to embrace the idea of rewarding your dog every single time he looks at you. It’s hard to watch your dog’s face and look where you’re going. That’s why you practice in familiar surroundings and straight lines, so you don’t trip and hurt yourself. But that focus on you – rewarding your dog EVERY SINGLE TIME they look at you, is the foundation for all good training. Focus is key.  (Check out the Looky Loo game for more distraction work.)

It doesn’t mean your dog stares adoringly into your eyes all the time, for every step. It means that they check in with you on a regular basis. Because they know it will be rewarded. What gets rewarded, gets repeated.

Calling it something

When you’re building the “check in” habit, you can call it “watch,” “here,” “check,” or whatever works for you. But it shouldn’t just be the dog’s name. Dogs hear their names constantly, with little or no information attached to it. So, more often than not, they ignore it. We have one student who says her dog’s name all the time, despite us hounding her not to. And when he hears it, he tends to look away, rather than at her. Because she’s reluctant to reward. When he does look at her, he gets an occasional “good boy!” even with us yelling “Reward that!” “Cookie him!”

Building the “check in” behavior pays dividends in the real world. If you’re out walking and see “SQUIRREL!” use your check-in and have rewards ready. The better the reward, the more likely your dog will find you more interesting than the distraction. In your dog’s opinion, you should be more interesting than anything else in the world. It’s not hard to do – they already adore you!

Eyes on the Prize

Setting priorities in dog training

When your dog does something unexpected in a training session, how do you react? Do you remember your priorities in dog training? Or do you allow your focus to wander?

Setting priorities in dog training: Torque's priority was to play with the training tool.
Torque’s priority during the training session was to chew the training tool…

Torque gave Hope a lesson in keeping priorities straight. In the middle of their 2-Minute Trainer video of the week, he decided to take off with the training game’s object, carry it off to a corner, and shred it to bits.

So she screamed “NO!” at him, wrestled it out of his mouth, smacked him with it, and crated him immediately. 

Of course not. You can see in the video that she takes a pause to figure out what Torque’s up to. Removes the toy, and attempts to regain his attention and focus. It’s semi-successful, but calls for a change in the plan.

There are two paths forward:

  • Change directions and teach Torque to use pool noodle pieces, not eat them.
  • Use something else for the “Push!” game and get on with life.

Decide what’s important

Is it worth it for Torque to learn not to eat pool noodles? When we think about how often he’ll encounter them, not really. If we used them for anything but dog training games, it might be important. But we have no pool, and he’s never going anywhere without us. The chances of him encountering and destroying other people’s pool noodles in the wild is minimal. So we’re going to make a different choice for his training games.

That’s how you keep your eyes on the prize. Torque showed us the object we were using for the game isn’t a viable option. So we’ll use something else. That’s keeping your dog training priorities in order. We talked about training certain behaviors regardless of the public’s perception of any breed’s intelligence some time ago.

Be ready to shift gears

“Shifting gears” used to be something every driver had to know how to do. Nowadays, most people probably don’t even know the origin of the phrase. But it’s still a good one. Drivers of manual transmission cars had to pay attention to multiple inputs (speed, traffic, signals, etc.) and be ready to literally shift gears to adjust. Constantly. 

Dog training requires that you’re paying attention to what your dog is telling you and be ready to shift gears and adjust. Torque’s theft of the pool noodle was him saying “I don’t know what you want, so I’m leaving.” His repetition of that means “Shredding this thingie is highly rewarding to me, so I’m going to keep doing it.”

Given a choice, dogs will always opt for the most rewarding action. At that moment, shredding the noodle was more rewarding than playing with Hope. Gears have to shift. The game has to get more fun, and the object less so. 

Always communicating

Your dog is always providing feedback on your training. If you pay attention to what their behavior and body language tells you, your partnership will thrive. 

And be ready to shift on the fly (back to car references!). If, instead of a pool noodle, Torque had suddenly decided that books are wonderful to destroy, we would have to address that. If it matters to you, you can make it matter to your dog. You set your own priorities in dog training.

Bribing dogs to behave

Are we bribing our dogs or rewarding them?
Do we bribe our dogs or pay them for a job well done?

Is reward-based dog training the same as bribery? Are we bribing dogs to behave? Is there something wrong with constantly rewarding dogs?

Let’s break it down into terms even our most resistant students understand instantly. You have a job. You love all aspects of your job – the work you do, the place you do it, the people you work with. It’s an ideal situation and you couldn’t be happier. 

Would you still do it if you didn’t get paid?

Your dog’s job is to be a great companion, a member of the family who conforms to the rules of the household. When your dog does a good job – shouldn’t they get paid, too?

Because we say so!

At a certain toddler age, every child goes through a “Why?” stage – questioning everything. It’s a normal part of development, but that doesn’t mean it’s not sometimes frustrating. At some point, everyone has lost patience and said “Because I say so!”

At this point the child understands only that you’re angry with them. They don’t understand the source of the anger, or what happened to change the mood. Neither does your dog. 

Even adult dogs are persistent toddlers. The smartest dogs in the world will never go to college, never support themselves, never become responsible taxpayers. We choose to be their guardians throughout their lives.

Asking your dog to consistently do what you want, without any hope of reward, is unrealistic. “Because I say so” only works some of the time. “Because you love me” only works some of the time. Without some kind of reward, your dog has no reason to do as you ask. Is it bribing your dog to behave? Maybe. Do we care?

Rewards come in different forms

It doesn’t mean you have to be a constant “Pez dispenser” as one of our students phrased it. It does mean that your dog’s good behavior should be acknowledged – with words, play, pets, scratches, treats, or anything your dog loves. Our article “Lots of ways to reward your dog” discusses this in more depth.

Give your dog a reason to choose wisely. The more you reward your dog for making good choices, the better they’ll become at choosing. What gets rewarded gets repeated. 

So is it bribery? Some may see it that way. The promise of a reward is motivating for both people and dogs. So – pay your dog.

Luring vs. rewarding

Actually, luring, which is not the best dog training, is more akin to bribery. We like to think of positive reinforcement training, reward-based training, as the best bargain you can make with your dog. They get what they want when we get what we want. Sounds like a good deal for everyone.

If you consider it bribing dogs, we’re okay with that. It gets results, that that’s what matters.

Train your dog to walk on a treadmill

When it’s too hot to trot … Dogs need exercise. And one of the best exercises for both dogs and people is walking. (We talked about other kinds of exercise your dog might need in “Wellbeing of dogs.”) But there are times it’s just not practical to go for a long fitness walk. It may be too hot, too cold, too wet, or too icy. You may need to use every walk for training if you have a reactive dog. If, for whatever reason, outdoor walks are impractical, you can train your dog to walk on your treadmill.

There are specifically-designed “dog joggers,” but without a kennel full of dogs that need exercise, the treadmill designed for people works just fine. Especially if you can manually set the speed, incline, and time. That’s what we do with our dogs and they jump on to get started.

Training for treadmill walking

If, like many, your treadmill has become a fancy clothes hanger rather than a routine part of your schedule, the first training step is getting your dog used to the noise the treadmill makes. If you use the treadmill regularly, your dog is already familiar with the sound and shouldn’t fuss about it. 

Use high-value treats for all treadmill training. Since this training is for health and fitness, we want the dogs to love it.  Set a short program on the treadmill and have your treats handy. Start the treadmill and get your dog into the room on leash and harness. If your dog doesn’t have a harness, get one. It’s a safety issue. The last thing you want is to jerk your dog’s neck if he/she missteps on the treadmill. 

For this first step in training the dog isn’t getting on the treadmill, but we want to establish the routine – harness, leash, yummy treats, treadmill. Dogs love routine. Get as close to the treadmill as your dog is comfortable and just reward him/her for being calm. If your dog is wary at first, that’s fine. You’ll move gradually closer as your dog indicates comfort where they are.

If your dog is fine with the sound, let him/her check out the treadmill, looking and sniffing. Keep hold of the leash and try not to allow your dog to step up on the treadmill when it’s moving. It could frighten him/her – things dogs step on don’t usually move by themselves.

Next step

For the next 2-Minute session of treadmill training, leave the treadmill off. This is the session your dog gets to step on the tread, sniff around, and learn the right position for walking on the treadmill. If your treadmill is like ours, there’s a grab bar on the tread side, towards you. Drape the leash over the bar so your dog gets used to seeing it over his/her head. 

Simon (Boston Terrier) is walking on the treadmill.
Simon is getting his roadwork in.

Think about where you plan to stand and how you’ll deliver rewards when your dog is exercising on the treadmill. Different dogs may require different approaches. Since our dogs are comfortable on our left side through obedience training, we stand to the side of the treadmill, facing the same way as the dog. Remember – always reward with the hand closest to the dog. We hold the leash in our right hands, and deliver treats with the left.

How you do it is up to you and your dog. You can be on the left, right, or even standing over your dog with one foot on either side on the deck. Eventually you may even be able to share the treadmill with your dog. We don’t recommend it, for safety’s sake, but we know some people jog with their dogs. You can also be in front of the treadmill, encouraging your dog to come towards you. Unless you have another person to hold the leash, this isn’t ideal. 

Try it, you’ll like it!

After a couple sessions hanging out by the treadmill, both on and off, your dog may be ready to give it a try. Don’t hurry – there’s no rush. If your dog avoids the equipment, he/she isn’t ready to get on it. Don’t ever try to plunk your dog onto the treadmill and start it up. This has to be a voluntary behavior if it has any chance of success.

Set your dog up on the treadmill, wearing his/her harness, leashed and under control. Start the treadmill slowly, without incline, and see how your dog does. You can always increase the speed later. Encourage him/her to walk as it starts up, even “fake-walking” yourself to get the idea across. Reward often and encourage frequently. 

If your dog freaks out – go back to sound desensitizing and sniffing/looking sessions. If he/she isn’t frightened, but doesn’t quite know what to do, keep a firm hold of the leash and do not let him/her fall off the back. Encourage with a brisk “Let’s go!” or whatever you say when you go for a walk outside.

Treadmill training

When your dog is comfortable on the treadmill, adjust the program for the time and speed that’s best for you and your dog. Finding your dog’s natural gait speed may take a few tries. Gradually increase speed until your dog is moving comfortably and picking up his/her feet. If you hear nails scraping on the tread, the speed isn’t right for your dog. You can adjust slower as well as faster. 

Three or four fitness walks a week are all that’s really necessary to keep your dog in top physical condition. It’s great to have the option of an inside workout when the weather outside is frightful.

Freestyle dog training game

How do you make up new training games with your dog? Let your dog lead the way with the Freestyle dog training game.

The hardest thing about playing the Freestyle game is letting your dog take control. You don’t decide any part of the Freestyle dog training game, other than when to play and how long.

It goes like this: in a safe space, put out a few different objects and let your dog have fun. There are no “wrong” answers. The only thing you can do to guide your dog is stand next to or look at one of the objects. Anything the dog does is “clickable” as long as he/she isn’t trying to eat it or run off with it.

Boom game

Some dogs are more creative than others. Some dogs make up all kinds of games and behaviors and do things we never would have thought to teach them. Other dogs rely on known games and adapt them to new circumstances.

By observing what your dog does, the things he/she particularly likes, and what he/she does with them, you can develop new games.

Two of our most recent examples:

Booker playing his own Freestyle dog training game, "Boom!"
Booker playing his own Freestyle dog training game, “Boom!”

Boom! Dog training game. Booker (Fran’s 9-year-old Boston Terrier) loves knocking things over. Fran made note of it and developed his “Boom!” game. She puts out a series of soft, vertical objects (foam rollers, yoga mats, pool noodles stuffed onto dollar-store paper-towel holders). And Booker goes through the maze knocking them over one by one. By saying “Good Boom!” he’s learned the word and now will run over to “Boom!” any vertical object. Fortunately, he’s too little to apply the behavior to people.

Fran’s younger Boston, 3-year-old Simon, is a bit of an obsessive/compulsive personality. When he puts his toys away, he tries to stack them neatly. Especially empty tuna cans. He carried the tendency over into his Freestyle game, always trying to stack objects. So Fran picked up some little stacking bowls (did we mention the dollar store is one of our favorite places for dog training equipment?). She was right about his neatnik tendencies – in Simon’s very first “Stack It!” session he caught on. Fran’s only played “Stack It!” with him a couple of times so far. And he doesn’t yet understand multiple bowls can go in the same stack, not just two. He’ll get there. 

Let your dog show the way

Freestyle sessions are also great when you’re out of ideas and don’t feel like playing an old standard. It’s also a great game when you’re tired. All you have to do is stand there, click, reward, and say “good.” 

The hardest thing about Freestyle is resisting the temptation to guide your dog. Our first exposure to dog training was with a trainer who told us “Never let a dog make a decision!” (See our article, “Follow your dog’s Lead.”) When, in reality, we strive to do exactly the opposite. Training is all about teaching dogs to make good decisions. 

Dog training step by step

We’ve all heard the saying that “the journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” That’s true for dog training, too. This is a journey that we’re on, and since it lasts the dog’s entire life, we all hope it’s a very long one. Dog training step by step means your dog thoroughly understands, trusts you completely, and loves you completely.

Sometimes it may seem like you’re not getting anywhere fast. And you may not be. Steady progress is difficult to measure. Especially when you have a 2-Minute game session that doesn’t go particularly well. That’s one of the beauty parts of the system – even the worst game session is only two minutes long. While we often want the good ones to last longer, we’re grateful the bad ones end quickly.

Baby steps get you there

If you have a dog who loves playing fetch, it’s a great game. If your dog doesn’t understand any part of it, it’s a complex behavior that your dog can learn to love playing. There are lots of moving parts to fetch:

  • Wait while you throw the toy.
  • Run after the toy.
  • Find the toy.
  • Pick up the toy.
  • Hold the toy.
  • Run back with the toy.
  • Drop the toy. 

If you have a non-fetching dog, not a single one of those steps comes naturally to your dog. Every one of them can be taught as a separate game. But if you’ve ever thrown a toy for a dog who sat there and looked at you, you know it’s impossible to teach the entire game at one time. If your dog is a “if you wanted it, why did you throw it away?” kind of dog, you know what we mean.

Keep it small and doable

Torque looks confused - whenever it's not dog training step by step.
Is Torque confused because the step was too big?

When every step is its own game, with a reward for small steps, no one gets discouraged. If you ask too much of your dog, they may disengage. Stress behaviors might include walking away, turning their head, licking their lips, yawning, or scratching. If you see any of those, it’s time to step back and assess the situation. Did you ask too much? Is the step you’re taking too big? Can you break it down smaller? We recently broke down the steps for Tango’s favorite game – “Put your toys away.”

Recently Hope was starting to teach the Utility Obedience exercise “Directed Retrieve.” In this exercise, three gloves are evenly spaced apart at one end of the ring. The dog is supposed to fetch the glove his owner points at. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque knows how to go get stuff and bring it back to Hope. He loves the dumbbell retrieve that’s another Obedience exercise.

Torque was completely flummoxed by the Directed Retrieve. Even though he knows “Get It!,” he was unfamiliar with the gloves, the multiple objects, and Hope’s directional signal. So Hope’s breaking it down. After a few 2-Minute games, Torque will now pick up the glove and carry it. He’s working on dropping it on command. And he’s still figuring out how to tell which one to get. 

Too much to swallow

It’s discouraging to fail. Torque didn’t recognize that “fetch the glove” was pretty much the same as “fetch the dumbbell.” We’ve mentioned before that dogs don’t generalize, and here was another proof. Now each part of the exercise is a separate game. 

If your dog truly isn’t making progress with something you want to teach, think about the smaller steps you can take. The way to keep your 2-Minute dog training games fast, fun, and effective is to keep the steps small. You’ll get where you’re going, whether you take small steps or giant leaps to get there.

You can’t cram dog training

Scenario: You’re hosting a big, buffet-style party in a couple of weeks. Your dog is a counter-surfing expert. Nothing on any flat surface is safe. Sadly, you don’t have time to change that. You can’t cram dog training.

In this case, managing the situation is the best you can do. You can either secure your dog away from the food, or have him on leash and tethered to a responsible person throughout the party. Left to her own devices, your dog will find the most rewarding option. Which would be a festival of party food.

Assigning someone to guard the banquet isn’t ideal, either. That person’s only option would be to reprimand the dog for being naughty. If your dog doesn’t know the “right” choice, they default to what’s most rewarding. In this scenario, it’s a feast.

Crisis training doesn’t work

You can't cram dog training. Simon thinks he can help himself to the salad on the kitchen table.
Simon thinks he can help himself to the salad on the kitchen table.

You can’t train a dog “stay off the counter” during a party. Likewise, you can’t train a dog to “stay” when the delivery guys are currently in and out of your house. If push has come to shove, your option is to manage the situation and the dog. (We talked about setting your counter-surfing dog up for success a while ago.)

Remember there are three ways to deal with dog behavior; ignore, manage, or train. 

If you choose to ignore something your dog does, they’ll keep doing it. That’s okay, since it doesn’t bother you enough to do something about it. 

In an urgent situation, like our fictional party or deliveries, the best option is management. Without a thorough understanding of what to do, your dog may get in trouble. If you need your entire attention on other chaos, manage your dog’s access. Securing your dog in another room or in a crate is a viable management choice. Trying to cram dog training in before a deadline is a losing proposition.

The long-term solution is to train your dog to cope with temptation and excitement. Athletes, musicians, and dancers practice constantly to build their “muscle memory.” Similarly, dogs rely on well-trained responses to decide their actions in somewhat familiar situations.

Set up for success

If your dog is a counter-surfer, set up training sessions to teach them how to react. This is a perfect time for a 2-Minute session. 

Put a handful of yummy food on the counter and stand there. If your dog sniffs at it, paws at it, attempts to reach it in any way, cover it. You can use your hand or a bowl or container. 

When the dog backs off, click (or praise) and reward. If the dog sits, even better! Praise and reward from the handful of food that’s already there. You’re teaching your dog that you are the source of all good things. She doesn’t get to help herself.

It’s an easy concept for people. Ask politely and you’ll get what you want. 

Since we want our dogs to be comfortable in human society, they need to learn manners. Dogs have instincts. Manners must be taught. We empower our dogs by giving them the tools, and manners they need.

How to stop your dog’s barking for attention

One of the most annoying dog behaviors is barking for attention. Almost all dogs vocalize to get their owners to focus on them. And the natural, human reaction is to pay attention when someone “talks” to you. So the dog’s barking works. So, how do your stop your dog barking for attention?

Last week we covered how to stop a dog’s constant barking at outside influences. That’s different from barking for attention.

The best way to get a dog to repeat a behavior, any behavior, is to reward it. By paying attention when the dog barks or whines at you, you’re rewarding it. So it happens. Again. And again. And again.  

Are you barking at me?

Your dog doesn’t know that barking at you is rude. Any house manners dogs have are taught. Dogs may know how to behave among other dogs. They have no idea of polite behavior in human society. To expect anything else isn’t fair to them. 

When you react to your dog’s whining or barking by talking to them, even if it’s shouting “Shut the heck up!,” your dog sees “winning.” They think you’re participating in the conversation. Dogs don’t understand the difference between “good” attention and “bad” attention. They just know they have yours, and they love it.

So how do you teach your dog to stop barking at you? The concept is simple, and it works. That doesn’t mean it’s easy. It requires you to do the most difficult part of dog training. Do nothing. Be still and quiet.

Not the most fun game

Simon was barking for attention. So Hope is pretending she's a staue, looking at the stars. When Simon is quiet, Hope will reward that.
When Simon is quiet, Hope will reward that!

This isn’t a training game you can plan, or schedule. You don’t prepare by getting your clicker and treats. You just play it every single time your dog barks or whines at you. 

When your dog barks at you, stop what you’re doing. Stand still, fold your arms across your chest, and stare at the ceiling. If your dog persists, or even intensifies by pawing at you or jumping, turn your back. If it continues, walk away. Go to the bathroom if you have to and close the door behind you (dog on the other side). 

If/when your dog is quiet, reward (with petting if you have no treats with you) and pet your dog, saying “Good Quiet!” If the dog starts up again, pretend you’re a statue looking at the stars.

This isn’t a game that your dog will particularly like. But it’s an important one for a peaceful life with your dog. Be sure to start being a statue as soon as the dog mouths off. And the reward comes the instant the dog is quiet. The picture you paint for your dog is everything. Noise gets no attention whatsoever. Quiet gets love in abundance.Show your dog a clear contrast and they’ll learn more quickly.

Everyone on board

Some of the people in your household may be slow to get with the program. It’s up to every individual to show the dog how to treat them. When you’re the only one your dog doesn’t bark at, maybe they’ll see the value. Dogs are smart. They’re perfectly capable of different relationships with every member of the family. Just like a human child, if it doesn’t work with “Mom,” they’ll go try it with “Dad.”

You can’t change your dog’s relationship with anyone but you. Teach your family members how to train the dog not to bark – but it’s up to them to follow through. Ignoring the persistent whining or barking is hard. We understand that. But if it’s working for the dog, he/she has no reason to stop doing it. Give him a reason.

How to stop constant dog barking

“How do I get my dog to stop barking?” is always in the top five questions all trainers get.

In response to our last tip “Be There,” we got some questions about the story with the barking dogs. The immediate “fix” was to restrict access to the windows where the dog barks. We talked about how dog learning never happens if you’re not there to teach.

So we have to turn the question around a little. You have to put yourself in the picture. It’s “How do I teach my dog to stop barking?” You’re the one causing the change.

Stop Barking game

Recognize your dog's barking trigger is the first step to training "Quiet."
What’s your dog’s barking trigger?

Recognizing your dog’s barking triggers is the first step in changing the behavior. Is there a particular time of day that your dog barks? If so, what’s going on at that time? It could be any number of things, from kids on their way to school, to the postal carrier, to delivery people. 

If you really want the barking to stop, restrict access to the area/room/window where the dog finds the trigger. This can be as simple as closing the blinds, or putting up a gate. It’s a temporary restriction, until your dog learns “Quiet!”

If there is a regular time your dog barks, be ready in advance. Make sure you have your clicker and really, really yummy treats. If your dog is a habitual barker, he or she is happy when barking. Turning it around will require a really terrific reward.

When your dog lets out a bark, get excited and move toward the window where the dog is barking. “What’s there, Fido?” “What do you see?” Don’t look at your dog, look outside. Chances are this will confuse your dog, since he or she is used to you paying attention to them, instead of what’s outside.

Focus on you

When you think about it, that’s pretty true, isn’t it? When your dog barks, you’ve probably immediately paid attention to the dog, not what they’re barking at. An unintended consequence is that you’ve rewarded your dog with your attention whenever they bark. Which means they’ve learned to bark to get your attention. (Next week we’ll talk about Barking for Attention.)

When your dog looks at you in his confusion, click and reward. “Good quiet!” And walk away from the window. Invite your dog to come with you, rewarding for coming away.  If they don’t keep you company, run away from the window. When your dog catches up to you, give him a treat, or if your dog’s favorite reward is a toy, play a quick game of tug.

That’s all there is to the game – getting your dog’s attention on you instead of the barking trigger. If you have to get between your dog and the stimulus, do it. When Hope’s French Bulldog Torque started barking incessantly at the Husky two doors down, she stepped between Torque and the fence, talking to him to get his attention. As soon as he glanced at her, he got a click and a cookie. A really, really good cookie. Most of the time he just glances at the Husky now. And then runs over to Hope for a treat.

Control the situation

In Torque’s case he went out in our own fenced backyard on leash until he learned the game. Training games only work if both of you are there and paying attention. This wasn’t a game Torque really wanted to play, but he got it.

Your dog will, too. If it happens that your dog starts barking when you’re not prepared, do anything to interrupt the behavior and reset your dog’s focus. You know your dog’s magnets. One of our dogs would come running whenever he heard a M & Ms package rattle. (He only got one – we asked the vet for permission.) Another dashes over when he hears the treat cabinet. Use what you know about your dog! 

Allowing the barking to continue just solidifies the habit. And, as you know, habit is one of the most powerful forces in the universe. Changing an entrenched behavior will take time, but it can be done with patience and consistency.

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Be there to train your dog

You have to be there to train your dog. 

It seems obvious, but many people don’t make the crucial connections. Two of our puppy class students had questions this week about “problems” with their dogs. Neither realized they were both asking about the same thing in different situations.

Mitzi is a Golden Retriever puppy, five months old, who has earned the nickname “Destroyer of Toys.” Her dad asked what toys he can get that she won’t destroy. It’s getting expensive to replace them constantly, and, sooner or later, Mitzi’s going to wind up at the emergency vet for swallowing something she shouldn’t.

Bingo is a mixed-breed (Golden x Miniature Poodle) five-month-old puppy who barks a lot. Bingo’s older “brother,” Smokey, is teaching him how, since Smokey (9 years old) watches out the front windows and barks all day long.

You have to be there to train your dog

Both of these families have the same problem, but don’t realize it. They’re attempting the impossible – invisible training. 

You can’t train your dog if you’re not there. You can’t solve a problem by ignoring it. You have to be there to train your dog.

Get creative with problem solving

The solution to Mitzi’s problem is really easy, but her people never thought of it. She gets no toys unless they are actively playing with her. This will actually work to solve another issue they don’t realize they have. Mitzi has no interest in her “dad.” She never checks in with him, rarely glances at him, and pays no attention unless she has no other choice. Their relationship is tenuous, at best.

Mitzi is a toy destroyer. You have to be there to train your dog.
Mitzi is a toy destroyer

If the only time this toy-obsessed puppy gets to play with toys is when her people are with her, she’ll learn they’re the source of all good things and the bond will grow exponentially. Dogs, especially puppies, don’t have to be busy or entertained all the time. Puppies need lots of sleep and down time. Without constant toy stimulation, Mitzi will have a chance to get the rest she needs to process all the things she’s learning.

Bingo’s a tougher case

Because there’s another, older dog in the house, Bingo is learning both bad and good things from him. To nip Bingo’s barking behavior in the bud, Smokey has to get with the program. And that will depend on how willing his people are to put in the effort. 

It seems that Smokey has free run of the house, all day long. He parks himself at the front windows, which are two-stories high, with no blinds.. And he barks at everything he sees, all day long. Bingo is just following Smokey’s lead, learning that barking at everything outside is okay.

Be creative with solutions

Solving the issue requires restricting access to those windows when the family isn’t there to participate in training games. Hope listened to a bunch of “buts:”

  • But there are no blinds
  • But it’s an open concept house
  • But we can’t be there all the time
  • But they watch through the rail on the second floor

Hearing about the issue for the first time, listening for only a couple of minutes, Hope came up with two viable solutions: On the first floor, get spring-rods and drape sheets across them so the dogs can’t see out. On the second floor, drape the railing so the dogs can’t see out.

Once they manage access, the “Looky Lou” game is perfect. Let the dogs look out the window. If they start to bark, get their attention and reward for looking at you, instead of the barking trigger. If you’re there to explain what you want, your dog will quickly learn. Train one dog at a time. And yes, the nine-year-old dog can learn, too.

Look at whatever your dog’s issue is from an outsider’s point of view. Say it out loud, or pose the question on social media. Or ask us. There’s always a way to manage the behavior until your training takes effect. Your choices for dealing with your dog’s “naughty” behaviors are one of three: Ignore it. Manage it. Train it. 

Mitzi’s and Bingo’s families have been ignoring it. Now they know how to manage it. The next step will be how diligent they are in training to “fix” it.

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