Category: 2-minute tip

Every dog needs a muzzle

Why on earth are we talking about dog muzzle training?

You’d never use a muzzle on your dog, right? Your dog is a sweetheart and would never threaten anyone! 

Not so fast. How about if your dog is in an accident and injured? Will you guarantee they won’t snap in panic, pain, or fear? Under duress, the mildest-mannered dog may react according to instinct, not training. Every dog needs a muzzle.

One of the first lessons in canine First Aid is how to fashion a muzzle from any strip of cloth or rope. Emergency personnel want to help your dog, but don’t want to risk their own safety to do it. And we don’t blame them. 

Imperatives for safety

There are two things every dog should be trained for “just in case:”

  1. Crates. Every dog should be familiar and comfortable with a cage or crate. For travel, grooming, hospitalization – it’s the safest place for your dog. In the event of some kind of disaster requiring an evacuation, some shelters will only accept dogs if they’re crated. 
  2. Muzzles. While there are many people who would want to help if your dog were injured, nobody wants to risk a bite. If your dog is at all reactive, a muzzle allows you to go anywhere knowing that nothing will happen. (You can read Fran’s introduction to muzzles with Tango and his reactive training in her book Tango: Transforming My Hellhound.) And many veterinarians now routinely muzzle unfamiliar dogs. It keeps everyone safe. Additionally, a muzzle will prevent your dog from putting everything in his mouth on walks.

Better to have it

There’s an old saying “better to have and not need, than need and not have.” Having a muzzle and never needing it is ideal. Needing one and stressing out your dog isn’t good at all. Every dog needs a muzzle – just in case…

There are lots of different types of muzzles out there. There are muzzles with metal “baskets,” leather muzzles, rubber muzzles, muzzles made of net like Simon’s (below). There’s even a muzzle that looks like a duck’s bill, which makes it less threatening-looking. Which kind you get depends on your preference, your dog’s anatomy, and what’s available. You’ll find all of them online – read the measuring and fitting instructions carefully. 

Simon wearing his muzzle. He can breathe, drink, pant and get treats wearing it.
Simon in his muzzle.

If you have a short-faced dog, your options are more limited, but they do exist. Search specifically for a muzzle for brachycephalic dogs, or short-faced dogs. You can see Simon wearing his muzzle to the left.

Your dog’s muzzle should allow you to deliver treats to your dog. It will also allow the dog to drink, pant, and see clearly. Its purpose is to keep everyone safe, not cause further anxiety in a traumatic situation. Simon can obviously see, breathe, get treats, drink and pant while he wears his muzzle. Even though he has no nose to speak of, Simon has a muzzle that works for him.

Muzzle training steps

The first step for introducing anything new to your dog is exactly that – an introduction. Show the muzzle to your dog, click and reward. If your dog sniffs it, click and reward. If your dog stays calm when you pick it up, click and reward. 

Drape the muzzle over the hand that’s delivering treats to your dog. If your dog has to touch the muzzle to get the treat, that’s ideal. But don’t force it. If your dog is wary of the it at first, respect that for now. We want your dog to associate that muzzle with getting lots of high-value treats. Gradually move the muzzle closer to your dog so he has to push into it to get the treat. 

Step by step, gradually introduce your dog to the look and feel of the muzzle. If your dog resists, back up to the last step where he/she was okay, and start again. There’s no rush. Your dog will let you know when he/she is okay with the next step. Pay attention to your dog’s signals.

Keep sessions short

Generally speaking, dogs think muzzles are weird. They’re right. Don’t work on muzzle training more than 2-Minutes, like any other training session. But try to devote one 2-Minute session every day to the muzzle, until your dog is completely okay with it. Getting it over his/her head and clasping the buckle may take some time. Take the time that’s needed so your dog doesn’t mind the muzzle at all. Putting on a muzzle should become one of the strange things Mom (or Dad) wants, so your dog does it willingly. They may never like it, but they do it because we ask them to.

And while your dog is wearing his muzzle, don’t be stingy with the treats! If he’s being good, reward him!

If your dog is familiar with wearing a muzzle, you’ll have one less thing to worry about should the unthinkable happen. It’s another way to protect your pet.

Training helps dogs choose wisely

Positive reinforcement training doesn’t mean your dog gets to do whatever they want whenever they want. It means that you, as the dog’s teacher, must help your dogs choose wisely. Good decisions are rewarded. Poor ones are ignored.

There are times that we ask too much of the dogs. That’s on us, not the dog. It happened today in Simon’s 2-Minute session this morning. Simon is Fran’s four-year-old Boston Terrier. 

Training for Rally Obedience

One of the exercises often used in Rally courses is the Figure 8 with distractions. (This is a different kind of distraction than those Simon faced at an Agility trial, but the training to deal with any distraction is similar, as you’ll see.) Those distractions are bowls on either side containing either dog treats or dog toys. The objective is to heel with your dog in a figure-8 pattern around two pylons, despite the distractions.

Simon does great (after some training) when the bowls contain treats. While he’s food-motivated, treats are not his number-one reward. Toys are.

This morning Fran put a single bowl with some treats out and practiced heeling with Simon around the bowl. He was fine. Attentive to what he was doing and, after a glance or two, ignoring the distraction. His response was exactly right. He got lots of praise and treats. 

Changing the question

Simon answered that question perfectly. So it was time to change the question and see if he answered right again. Fran replaced the treats in the bowl with a low-value dog toy. It blew his little doggy brain.

Simon did fine getting into perfect heel position. He stayed sitting, until Fran said “Heel!” He dashed for the toy in the bowl and took off. Fran held onto the toy, not letting him tug or chew, and told him to “drop it.” He did, which earned him a treat reward. 

Fran set up again, a little further from the bowl, with a higher-value treat, but essentially the same question. We got the same, wrong answer. It was time to change the question – this one was too difficult for Simon today.

That’s also an important distinction. It was too much today. Another day, it might not be a big deal. But today we had to find a way to help Simon choose wisely.

Making positive changes

We switched the reward to a toy Simon likes even more than the one in the bowl. Fran played a short game of tug with him to show him what a wonderful treat was in store for him. And set up for heeling again. He almost chose wisely, but the “bird in the hand” option was still too tempting. 

Helping dogs choose wisely means rewarding heavily when they do!
Vigorous game of “tug” after ignoring the distraction.

Next change: covering the toy and bowl with an open basket. Simon could still see the toy in the bowl, but there was a barrier to instant access. With this change, he was finally able to heel around the distraction successfully. And was immediately rewarded with a vigorous game of tug with the toy in Fran’s pocket.

Success not required

While not every session has to “end with a win,” we called a halt at that point. We’d already asked Simon to think hard, answer difficult questions, and concentrate. 

Next time we visit this exercise – the Figure 8 with distractions – we’ll start where we left off today. With the toy visible but not accessible. We’ll start with the easier question and build up to the more difficult ones.

Dogs aren’t psychic and they don’t speak English. They do communicate clearly, if we’re paying attention. Yes, we do training to challenge our dogs. But we don’t want to overwhelm them by asking too much. If your dog is making bad decisions – it’s time to rethink the questions you’re asking.

Dogs Get Twitchy, Too

Almost all the dogs in class this week were acting weirdly. Dogs that have known each other for months were acting like they’d never seen each other before. Dogs that have been poky were trotting. It seemed like none of them ever heard the word “Sit!” before. It was one of those nights. Dogs get twitchy.

Full moon syndrome

Somebody asked if there was a full moon. We never checked, but it seemed as good an explanation as any. The weather was good, the room was comfortable, nothing different was happening. But all the dogs got twitchy.

Everybody has an “off” day now and again. Including dogs. Some 2-Minute Training game sessions seem to be done in the blink of an eye. And then there are days that two minutes seems like hours. 

What do you do?

Torque stacking rings
Torque trying to stack his rings

If you and your dog, or either one of you, is having an off day, go with it. If it’s “Ring Stacking Game” day, but your dog is grabbing the rings and running off to chew on them, do something else. Maybe a rapid-fire game of Puppy Pushups will get their focus back. 

The point is to not persist with something that’s not working. According to Albert Einstein, the definition of insanity is to do something over and over and expect different results. 

In dog training, when it happens we call it a “feedback loop.” Your dog does something that’s not right. You say “Let’s try it again” and your dog does it again the same way. Another try results in the same error. 

Interrupt the twitches

At this point, your dog is entrenched in a feedback loop and it’s up to you to break the cycle. Move away, play a different game. If your dog persists, and they sometimes do, you can run away, calling your dog. 

When you’re in a training class and your dog gets caught in any kind of feedback loop, recognize it and break it. If you need to step out of the room with your dog, tell your instructor your dog needs a break. And take one. 

Because most of the dogs in class were twitchy, we made changes to ensure safety. The people changed positions. We structured the exercises in a different order. We all kept careful eyes on the dogs to make sure everyone stayed safe.

Nothing going on

We’ll never know why four of six dogs were twitchy this week. Despite the lack of focus and moodiness, we got lots of practice in. And no one got hurt. 

It’s up to you to recognize when your dog is off, out of sorts, moody, or twitchy. Even the most easy-going dog has days like that. Fortunately, this too will pass.

Paw Preference: is Your Dog a Lefty or Righty?

Torque's paw preference is his left when he "taps."
Torque “taps” with his left paw.

Most dogs have a distinct paw preference, just like people. Unlike people, who are disproportionately right-handed, dogs seem to be evenly divided among lefties and righties, with a significant percentage of ambidextrous pups, too. Have you ever noticed whether your dog is a lefty or righty?

How do you know?

There are lots of different ways of figuring it out. And all of them can turn into another training game. The easiest is to have your dog standing and see which paw, left or right, they use for the first step. Or see which paw your dog uses to hold a bone or other chew toy. 

Our favorite game to figure out left vs. right dog preference is to stand with your dog a few feet away from a wall. Holding your dog’s collar, toss a treat against the wall. Tell your dog to get the treat and then call your dog back to you. See which way your dog turns, to his/her right or left, to come back to you.

Gather the data

A single repetition won’t tell you anything about your dog’s paw preference. If you use the treat-toss-turn game, repeat at least 10 times to find out your dog’s “laterality” (left or right pawedness). If your dog turns the same way eight times out of ten, you can assume that’s the side your dog prefers. 

There doesn’t seem to be any definitive study on “pawedness” in dogs. And it doesn’t really matter all that much. It does let you know which side is “dominant,” which may help you in evening out your training.

Just like people, dogs can over-develop the dominant side. If baseball pitchers didn’t balance their workouts, their dominant (pitching) arm would be huge in comparison to the other. Just like people, dogs also have a two-sided brain. Working the “off” side both physically and mentally, keeps the individual more fit.

Obedience Bias

Booker "heels" at Fran's left side.
Booker “heels” at Fran’s left side.

In most obedience and rally dog sports, the dog is always on the handler’s left side. This practice has ancient roots and goes back to hunters and warriors needing their right (dominant) hand for their weapons. Their dogs were on the left. While the original purpose no longer applies, the dog-on-left habit continues. 

Every so often, it’s great to switch things up. Try heeling with your dog on your right. Your dog may be a bit confused at first, so you may want to use a different word than your usual “heel!” We tend to use “Switch!” to get our dogs into heel position on the right.  

You may find it a bit awkward to stick to the rule “Always give treats with the hand closest to the dog,” but remember it. You never want your dog crossing in front of you to get the cookie. They could trip you and both could get hurt.

Balanced Training

Be careful! These days dog trainers who use a combination of punishing corrections and treats are calling themselves “balanced” trainers. That’s not what we mean. Balanced training should be doing exercises and playing games on both sides. What your dog can do on one side, try on the other. When we’re playing games where our dogs are going from one side of the room to the other (Ring Stacking, Put Your Toys Away), we switch sides periodically. That way our dogs get used to seeing movement, and keeping on task through distractions. 

Surprising laterality

When you’re doing your Perch Work, your dog may find one direction much more difficult than the other. That’s why we do it. Build up your dog’s proficiency on both sides equally to keep them physically fit and mentally acute.

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something  spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm. 

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more. 

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn.
Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.

Does your dog know where his butt is?

Perch work builds dogs’ hind end awareness

Have you ever seen a dog chase its tail – either live or on video? It’s both funny and a little bit sad. Funny because it just is. And sad because most dogs don’t know they have back ends. They lack hind end awareness. They certainly don’t know that the bits back there are able to move independent of the parts up front. 

Building hind end awareness and keeping your dog physically fit are two of the best reasons to do “Perch Work” with your dog. It’s also great for teaching tight turns (for Obedience & Rally people), loose-leash walking, and proper heel position. It’s easy to do, doesn’t really need special equipment, and fits easily into a 2-Minute-Dog-Training session. (For more on your dog’s physical fitness and how we can improve it, check out the article, “Wellbeing of dogs – caring for mind and body.”)

What is Perch Work?

Simon, improving his hind end awareness with Perch Work.
Simon doing Perch Work on a feed bucket.

At its simplest, Perch Work means the dog has two feet on an elevated surface. They “perch” on some platform. It can be absolutely anything, but not too high. When introducing Perch Work, you shouldn’t use anything more than two to four inches high. We use a 4-inch step stool, but whatever you have will do. If all you’ve got is a couch cushion – that’s fine. The unstable surface will actually benefit the dog’s core strength. 

When introducing your dog to their perch, just put it on the floor and let your dog check it out. Looking at it gets a click & reward. Sniffing it is also good. Pawing at it? Great – click and reward. When your dog has done the same thing (look, sniff, paw) three or four times, wait for something more. One paw on the platform is the next step, then two paws.

Since most dogs don’t understand using their back feet and paws, it’s most likely your dog will perch with front feet first. 

Next steps

Perch work is one training game where we do use lures to teach the dog what we want. When your dog has two feet on the perch, start moving. If your dog is facing you, it doesn’t matter which way you go. Show your dog a treat and start moving your feet. If your dog swivels to stay at your front, click and reward. Move a little more and wait for your dog to take a step with his/her back feet. If your dog comes off the perch, just wait. When he/she gets two feet back up, click and reward.

The objective is to get your dog to circle the entire perch, front feet up, back feet moving. It may take a couple of sessions to build up to the entire circle. That’s okay. There’s no rush. 

Then do it in the other direction. Both sides need equal exercise and tone. Your dog may favor going one way over the other. Just like people, dogs have a dominant side they tend to favor. Be sure to “work” the other side as well.

Different positions

You should also try for Perch Work with your dog next to you. This is the part that helps with those turns for performance sports.

Whichever side your dog is on, hold the treat in the hand further away, so your dog will curve around you to find it. Then put gentle pressure on the dog by stepping slightly into him/her. This will encourage your dog to move those back feet. Again, be sure to work both directions so your dog’s skills develop evenly.

Back feet next

Whatever your dog does with front feet on the perch, they can do with back feet as well. Since this is a very different idea for most dogs, expect it to go somewhat slower. 

The easiest way to get your dog to put back feet on the perch is to have them walk across it and click as soon as the back feet are on and front are off. Most dogs will try to get their back feet off as soon as possible. If you’re in front of the dog, try to block the motion and, if the dog is still on the perch, click and reward. 

When your dog is comfortable putting back feet only on the perch, start the same circles around, both directions. Click and reward when your dog moves his back feet on the perch. 

Name that Perch Work

Decide on different names for the exercises for front feet and back feet. Very uninspired, we call front skills “Feets” and back skills “Rears.” The dogs know what they’re supposed to do. And as long as they’re getting rewarded, they don’t mind a bit.

Good Dogs Should Always Be Rewarded

We met a woman this week whose two-year-old daughter thinks their dog’s name is “Good Dog!” We laughed about it, but it rings true. This woman is so accustomed to saying “Good Dog!” it could be the dog’s name. It’s not. The dog’s name is actually Miko.

Is there such a thing as too much praise for your dog? Too many treats? Is it possible to play too many games and have too much fun with your dog?

Of course not!

Too much of a good thing

In human terms, can you ever hear too much sincere praise from your boss? Knowing you’re doing well isn’t a reason to stop trying. It’s encouragement to keep going. And maybe even try even more, since you know your efforts are being appreciated.

Simon - a good dog is rewarded.
Simon’s a good dog who’s being rewarded!

It’s very common for people to assume there’s a time limit for rewarding their dog for good behavior. Once their dog is “trained” (as if you’re ever done!), they can stop rewarding. There is no time limit. Throughout your dog’s life, let them know you like what they’re doing. They’re good dogs. And you love them. Just like no human likes being taken for granted, dogs should be appreciated just for being good dogs!

Worried about spoiling 

“But I don’t want to ‘spoil’ my dog! He’ll expect treats all the time!” 

We hear that a lot, especially from new dog owners. 

Realistically, what’s the harm in spoiling your dog? Your dog is never going to have to fend for himself in society. He doesn’t have to be a responsible citizen, get a job, pay rent, vote, drive, or even shop for groceries. Your dog’s one and only “job” is to be a good dog. A much-loved member of the family. Who doesn’t poop on the floor. 

And is it really “spoiling” if you’re acknowledging your dog’s respect for the rules you’ve set? If your dog is doing the “job” you’ve assigned, shouldn’t he be paid for a job well done? 

Let’s make it about you, instead. You have a job you love. You enjoy the work, your office, your colleagues, even the corporate culture of your workplace. Are you still going to work if you don’t get paid? (There are never too many treats in dog training either!)

Pay your good dogs

Maybe we just need a change in terms. Instead of “rewarding” good behavior, maybe we should just consider it payment for a job well done. After all, a reward sounds like a one-time deal – a single recognition of some achievement. Instead, maybe we should look at treats/playtime/praise as just part of your dog’s regular salary for being a very good dog.

Cue your dog and all his cuteness

Booker's head tilt - cue your dog.
Booker’s almost got that head tilt

You know that adorable head tilt your dog does whenever you whistle? Cue your dog’s cuteness! Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words – give the behavior a unique name and make it part of your dog’s repertoire!

For example: Years ago we had a Boston Terrier named Daemon. So many years ago that one of the songs on the radio all the time was Billy Joel’s “Piano Man.” Every time he heard that song, Daemon would howl, like he was trying to sing along. It was the only time he ever did it. We thought it was hilarious, and adorable. So we named it and gave him treats every time. In just a few weeks, Daemon knew it. Many days were brighter when we asked: “Daemon, are you the Piano Man?” and listening to his adorable response.

Logic isn’t necessary

Of course Daemon wasn’t the Piano Man. But he didn’t know that. You can name behaviors whatever you want. The words you use will only have that particular meaning to you and your dog. Some people use foreign phrases, made-up languages (like Klingon), or nonsense syllables. It doesn’t matter to anyone but you and your dog. If it makes you smile and you won’t be embarrassed to say it in public, go ahead!

The public part is worth noting. Because you’re going to want to show off your dog’s new trick at the next family gathering, or get-together at your place. And you want to be able to say it in front of your grandmother. Or post it on social media and make your dog an internet sensation. Without getting “bleeped.”

Anything can become a cute trick

The behavior you cue doesn’t have to be anything particularly special. Put a name to something your dog does naturally. When your dog gets up from a nap, does she stretch in a particular way? Have some treats handy and say “Good Stretch!” and reward. You can probably even predict when she’ll do it, so you can be ready. Just saying “Good Stretch!” every time you see your dog do it will evolve into a cue for the behavior. It may take a while for your dog to realize what you’re rewarding for, but it will happen. Hope was starting to teach Torque “Stretch!” He still hasn’t quite picked up on it, but Fran’s Booker did. 

“Shake!” is a good one to cue your dog with, too. Not all dogs shake themselves, and they certainly don’t all do it the same way. Fran’s Brussels Griffon Tango has the most adorable way of shaking himself from front to back – almost like “The Wave” at a stadium. If it makes you smile, it’s worth trying to cue it.

Look for special everyday

Even if you have multiple dogs of the same breed, over time or together, you know that each dog has their own personality. Those individual distinctions are what make each dog special. Capturing those with cued, natural behaviors lets you preserve each dog’s uniqueness. And the time you spend together, learning, practicing, and performing, become precious memories. 

Take dog training games to the next level

Take your dog training games to the next level by combining tricks. What can Torque do next?
Torque “hides.”

After you’ve been playing training games with your dog for a while, you might have trouble coming up with new ideas. But you don’t always have to come up with something new. You can take your dog training games to the next level by putting them together.

Inspirational dog training

We’ve always loved dogs. But getting hooked on the training part came much later. Dogs are great, adorable, cuddly companions and friends. But the partnership truly blossoms through training. One of the very first, inspirational dog/people partnerships we saw was Carolyn Scott and her Golden Retriever Rookie:

That video is from 2006, competing in “Dog Freestyle,” or “Dog Dancing.” When you watch the video, you’ll see that nothing Rookie does is beyond your dog’s ability: spins, heeling, back up, around, etc. Fran is even working on the “Twine” behavior with Simon, where he “twines” between her legs as she walks. 

Only limit is imagination (and thumbs)

If you search for “dog dancing” or “dog freestyle” you’ll see tons of videos from around the world. Routines that people have come up with are truly amazing. Some use props, others, like Scott & Rookie”s routine, don’t. The only limit is what dogs are actually capable of manipulating without having thumbs. 

If you and your dog have mastered a couple of behaviors with 2-Minute Training games – how about putting them together? Then you’ll have a whole new trick and possibly the start of a dog dancing routine. Hope and Torque’s trick “Troll Under The Bridge” is actually three behaviors strung together: Come, Circle to Middle, and Back Up.

Could it be a component of a dog dancing routine? Absolutely! 

Dog dancing, or freestyle, is the precursor to the Elite Performer, or top level of AKC’s Trick Dog program. And you can still earn any level of Trick Dog title virtually. It’s a great way to show off your dog’s skills.

Use music for inspiration

If you have a favorite song, why not try to choreograph something for you and your dog? A complete song would require an enormous amount of planning, endurance, and training. But a 15-second snippet is both doable and fun. You already know how much training gets done in just two minutes. 15 seconds would definitely let you string together at least three to five behaviors.

It’s another way to have fun with your dog. What’s better than dancing the night away?

Training multiple dogs at one time

If you have more than one dog, is training multiple dogs at one time possible? Or even desirable?

Yes and no

It depends on what you’re training, how experienced the dogs are, how well they know each other, and how good you are at multi-tasking, and how many people are involved in the training. In other words, maybe.

If you have one person for each dog – absolutely possible! We recently talked about having our dogs run (walk really fast) on the treadmill to get in some exercise when it’s too hot to go out. One of us is “walking” the dog right next to our little training area. The other is having fun with a different dog, playing training games. 

At first, the “walking” dog was more interested in the training games. All of our dogs adore their 2-Minute sessions and thought they were missing out. They learned quickly that rewards come for road work, too. All are now fine with having “entertainment” while they get their miles in.

If you’re on your own, it gets a bit trickier.

To each, his own rewards

You can start by playing the same game with both dogs. Simple things like side-by-side sits, downs, spins, or even “Touch!” holding out a different hand to each dog. The key is to make sure each dog knows he’s not forgotten, and gets a “turn.” Dogs are generally great at being fair – as long as they get some time, attention, and treats!

All four of our dogs "Line up!" after coming in the house to get out of the crowded entryway.
“Line up!”

One of the group games we play is “line up!” We have all the dogs sit in a line and stay. Rewards are given to each in turn. The game originally came from trying to move all the dogs out of a narrow entry. Because dogs always stand in the most crowded doorway. That’s where the action is – that’s where they want to be.

Instead of saying “Move!” or trying to step around them and kill ourselves, we developed the “Line Up!” game. As they come in the house, we say “Line Up!” and they run over to sit on the kitchen mat. We say each dog’s name as we reward them, so they know whose turn it is. If somebody moves out of line, or tries to grab somebody else’s treat, the game stops. When everybody remembers his manners, the game resumes. 

We’re not entirely sure that “social pressure” works on dogs. We do know that when the game stops abruptly, the “good” dogs give the “naughty” one a dirty look.

Next step

The next step is to call one dog out of line. This lets the dogs know that they have to pay attention. You can either ask them to play a little game, or release them from “Line Up!” Call each dog for a game and/or release. And you’ve trained multiple dogs at once!

It’s also fun to try little behaviors in pairs. Both Obedience and Rally have “Pairs” competition. It’s a just-for-fun, or “non-regular” class of competition. And it always draws competitors, and audience, because it’s such a joy to watch.

Just hanging out in the yard, we’ll ask a couple of dogs for a simultaneous “Spin!” or “Front!” just because. They love doing it, and we love seeing them so happy and accomplished. These are the tiny little games you play just to have fun with your dog wherever you are, anytime you like. We also sometimes do a group recall for fun – when the dogs are wandering at the other side of the yard, call everybody and see who gets to us first. (“Get your dog to come dashing to you” has some great tips for the recall, or “Come!”)

Scaling up

A friend of ours who’s also addicted to playing training games posts trick training videos on social media. She’ll often have another dog hanging out on a cot in the background. It’s another level of training, and it didn’t happen all at once. 

Our friend frequently rewards the dog hanging out on the cot. It allows both dogs to adjust to the idea that they don’t have to be the center of attention all the time. That you do remember them. And that they’ll be rewarded for remembering the game they’re playing.

Just hanging out on the cot is an active game. Most people who have trouble with their dogs’ “Stay!” tend to think that their dog isn’t “working” when they’re staying. They are. And for active dogs, it can be the hardest game of all. 

Choose one or more

It’s up to you whether you choose to train more than one dog at a time. It’s certainly easier with just one. But two (or more) can multiply the fun!