January 2025 - 2 Minute Trainer

Dog Training Game – Follow the Point

Does your dog go (or even look) where you point? Or do they check out your pointing hand, sniff it, lick it and sit to be petted? Don’t worry – it’s easy to train your dog to follow the point.

After spending lots of time dropping through the rabbit hole of the internet, there doesn’t seem to be any consensus on whether dogs’ ability to follow where you point is nature or nurture. It is universally accepted that dogs can be trained to follow a pointer. But how, exactly, do you do that?

Looking to you

From the moment you bring a dog home, they’re always learning from you. If you have that niggling feeling there’s always someone watching, you’re right. Unless they’re asleep, your dog is always aware of where you are and what you’re doing. If you’re really attuned to your dog, they can even tell what you’re thinking. Like Fran’s Simon who wakes up from a sound sleep and dashes to the door when Fran thinks about walking her dogs.

If you make a habit of pointing at stuff, your dog may already have a notion of how it works. Most of us have dropped some tidbit on the floor and pointed to it, urging our dogs to get it. Sometimes it works. But it’s not a reliable behavior, just an occasional lucky find.

For this game, we’re going to transform that luck into a bet-on-it, go there, get that.

Intro to Follow the Point

The first step is stupid easy. Get a treat, put it on the floor. Point at it and tell your dog to get it. If your dog has a reliable “Stay!”, use it. Otherwise, hold the dog’s collar with one hand while you place the treat and point with the other. Be sure you don’t release the dog until you’re pointing. This step is just introducing your dog to the relationship between the “Point” and getting good stuff.

After a couple of pointed-at treats, your dog will catch onto the concept pretty easily to follow the point. The next step is to build some distance. If there’s no one else there, and your dog won’t “Stay!” put them on leash and wrap it around a heavy piece of furniture so they can’t grab the treat as you’re placing it.

Point at the treat and release your dog. Keep your arm up and the point intact. We want the dog to learn to move in the direction you’re pointing. Don’t move closer if they don’t dash right over. Just keep pointing. (Patience!)

After a couple repetitions, your dog’s going to start putting things together. Look for them to start watching your arm and hand. When they start anticipating where the instructions are coming from, you know it’s sinking in.

Now put the treat in a bowl and do the same thing another few times. We’re introducing the idea that even if the dog can’t see the treat, it will always be where you point.

What’s next?

It’s one thing for your dog to go where you point. It’s another to choose that direction over another. Get two identical bowls/dishes/targets to put the treat in. Put both bowls out at the distance your dog was successful. Put a treat in one. Go back to your dog and point at the bowl with the treat.

If your dog goes to the wrong bowl anyway, just start over. Try to figure out where the disconnect happened and go back to that step. If you have a dog who’s incredibly nosey, like Fran’s Simon, they’ll probably check out the second bowl. As long as the dog went where you were pointing first, that’s fine. It’s actually a good thing. They’ll know that there are rewards for going where you point, and nothing anywhere else.

This step teaches the dog that there will always be something good where you point. Even when there’s not a treat where you’re pointing, there will be a reward for going there. Dogs reliably do whatever’s most rewarding for them. Make following your point rewarding every time.

Nothing in the bowl

The next step requires the “leap.” Set out the two identical bowls. Don’t put anything in either one. Leave a good distance between the bowls so your dog can’t possibly confuse which you point at. Set up with your dog at your side and point at one of the bowls. If your dog goes to the right bowl, get over there and give your dog a jackpot! Do it again.

When your dog is getting it right most of the time, you can up the challenge by increasing the number of bowls, moving them closer together, or any variation you can think of. As long as your dog always gets rewarded for getting it right, they’ll keep going where you point.

Use your imagination

Following your “Point!” can be the start of all kinds of “go there, get that” behaviors. In competition obedience, it’s known as the Directed Retrieve. The exercise is part of the highest level of Obedience (Utility), and involves three gloves, evenly spaced along one side of a 40 foot long ring. At the opposite side of the ring, the handler points their dog at whichever glove the judge designates. The dog runs out to the glove, picks it up, brings it back to the handler, sits, drops the glove on command.

There are lots of steps for the dog to learn. And all of them are fun for both of you. Recently we saw a version where the dog ran to a cooler, opened it, picked out a bottle of water, and brought it to their person. Your dog can do it, too!

Why dogs pull on leash, and what to do about it

Many dog owners think their dogs pull on leash because they’re in a hurry. They want to get “over there” to sniff whatever nasty things are on the ground. Or maybe the dogs like going faster. Maybe their dogs think there’s something more interesting around the corner.

The truth is much more basic. Dogs like having a tight leash. The reason is simple. If the leash is tight, they don’t have to pay attention to you. When dogs pull on leash, they know exactly where you are and what you’re doing. They can focus on everything around them, and not worry about where you are. In lots of ways, it’s easier for your dog to pull, even if it chokes them, than divide their attention.

Don’t try breaking it

As everyone knows, habits are hard to change. The longer the habit’s been entrenched, the harder it is to break. That’s one of the reasons we don’t try to break the pulling habit. Instead, we establish a new walking game and use it until it becomes a habit you’ll want to keep.

Since dogs always choose the action that’s most rewarding, being by your side has to be the most valuable option. Arm yourself with your dog’s highest-value treats for the Pattern Walking Game. Whether that’s hot dogs, cheese, or whatever bizarre thing your dog loves above all else, have it ready.

Pattern Walking Game

The first step is to choose a three-word phrase you can remember easily. Most people choose “one, two, three.” But it can be anything your dog doesn’t hear all day every day. One of our trainees chose “Coffee, Tea, Wine.” You’ll be saying it a lot, so choose a phrase that comes to you easily. We’ll use “one, two, three,” here. You use your chosen phrase for the steps.

Get five treats and your dog. On leash is good, since that’s how your dog will associate the phrase with walking. Now say the third word in your phrase and give your dog a treat – 5 times.

“Three.” Give your dog a treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.

Your dog doesn’t have to do anything, be anywhere in particular to get the treat. It helps if you say it in an excited voice.

Next steps

Get five more treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. Emphasize the third word. Give your dog a treat when you say the third word:

“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.

We bet you can guess what the next step is in teaching your dog the Pattern Walking Game. Get another five treats and:

“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.

Where you want them

The first few times you play the game, that’s all you do. You have to establish the link between the third word and reward. Once your dog whips their head around at the sound of your third word, you can move on to the next step – where the treat is located.

This step teaches your dog to be in the “reward zone.” Hold the treat by your thigh, on the side where you want your dog to walk. Start all over with three sets of five treats, always holding the treat on “THREE!” where you want your dog’s head to be. That’s by your side. Your dog should start looking for the treat on “Two” and be looking for your reward hand.

Put it in motion

Again, depending on your dog, only move on when your dog anticipates where the reward will be by going to the reward zone as you say your 3-word phrase.

Once the dog is reliably at your side on “THREE!”, take a step as you say each word of the phrase. If your dog isn’t at your side when you say “THREE!”, just wait. Don’t move the treat, or wave it around. Your dog may need a moment to think, so let them. When they come to your side, give them the treat and do it again. And again.

Stretch it out

When your dog understands, take two steps for every word in the phrase. Take your pattern walking to different rooms, outside, in the yard, etc. Put it in motion and take it for a test run.

You can make Pattern Walking a part of longer walks. If you go for 30 minutes walks, don’t use the Pattern Walking Game more than five minutes at a time. If you use it in the middle of a longer walk, set yourself up for success. Get your dog’s attention. Have them sit. Do a quick “One, Two, THREE!” Treat!. And then start the game’s motion.

Using Pattern Walking on a regular basis during walks will establish it as a new habit that’s fun for both of you. It takes some time. That’s okay. It takes time to establish a new routine.

Word of caution

Once your dog is in love with the third word in your phrase it’s tempting to abuse it. It’s not a substitute for a good “Come!” It’s not a way to get your dog’s attention. We’ve had students who start repeating “Three! Three! Three!” when their dog loses attention. Don’t. Use a game like “Touch!” Or “Puppy Push-ups” to center your dog.

Keep your 3-word Pattern Walking phrase sacred for walking. Every time your dog hears the third word, they should get a treat by your side. Every time. No exceptions. If you stick to it, your dog will know exactly what’s expected of them and do it reliably.

Regrets, there’ve been a few

It’s fun having dogs who understand and know how to do stuff. If there’s something we want them to know, we figure out a game way to teach them. But over the years, there’s been some training, or lack thereof, that we regret. (Like eliminate on command.)

If you’re lucky enough to have an old dog, you know it’s not always easy. On those really bad-arthritis days, you feel like a tyrant making them get up and walk. But joints, like lots of things in life, are a “use it or lose it” proposition.

Tango is now 15 ½ years old. He’s little, so we have the option of carrying him around. But we don’t, except for stairs. He needs to move. We make him play “Put Your Toys Away” almost every day – at least he’s moving from the toy pile to the bin.

What we wish he knew: “eliminate on command”

The biggest regret is what we wish we’d taught him when he was young and spry. That’s to eliminate on command.

When Tango was young, he could “hold” for a dozen or more hours. He never messed in the house or had accidents. He also never had a predictable elimination schedule. It wasn’t a big deal then. If he had to go when he was outside, he did. If not, he didn’t.

Now, he can’t hold for a dozen hours. But he doesn’t like being out in the cold. And he doesn’t eliminate on command, because we never taught him. So he stands there, shivering (we are, too), and looking miserable. When we relent and bring him inside, he either paces around the house, or has an accident.

Think ahead

We’ve had dogs for so long that every floor is a dog-friendly surface. It’s not a big deal to clean up after Tango. But we wish we didn’t have to.

We’ve made sure to teach all the other dogs to eliminate on command. It’s easy to do – name it, praise it, reward it. Every time.

The other dogs aren’t young – 12. 10, and 6. And all of them know the commands “go poop” or “go pee.” A friend of ours used “hit it” as her dogs’ cue.

Think carefully about the name you give to your dog’s bathroom functions. And where you’re most likely to say it. If you’re in your own backyard, nobody’s around and it matters less. But if you’re in a more public place, will you be embarrassed to say “go poop?” If so, think of a lovely euphemism. Only you and your dog need to understand what you mean.

Language matters

A huge part of dog training is establishing communication between you. Dogs are capable of understanding dozens, if not hundreds, of words. Your job is teaching them the vocabulary they need.

You get to decide what every word means between you and your dog. Make your “potty” word something you’ll remember and use. And be sure it’s not a word your dog will hear all the time. That could get messy.

Try it without treats

One of our videos got a little traction this week on Tik Tok and we were fortunate to have quite a few people comment. Most were lovely, just hearts and admiration for Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog. It’s always nice when somebody else thinks your dog is as wonderful as you do. But there were also more than a few that implied his only motivation was the treats. And challenging us to “prove” he can do it without rewards. “Try it without treats” they said.

A different perspective

We know that Torque would play training games just for the fun of it. Would he be as eager? Probably not. And how would we communicate to him when he’s right? And when he’s not?

One of the first things we tell all our trainees is “Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards.” We say it early and often. Those rewards give your dog the immediate feedback: “Yes! That was good!” Withholding the rewards tells your dog “That’s not quite it. Try again.”

Many people seem to think that praise should be sufficient reward or motivation. Let’s put that in perspective.

For example: you have a great job in a great place with terrific colleagues. Everything about your job is great. Is a pat on the back from your boss sufficient reward? It’s really nice, but don’t you still want a paycheck?

Proving it to who?

Our response when challenged to create a video without using rewards was: Why should we?

The person came back with “To prove you can do it.”

To whom? And why? We’re not claiming that Torque is unique among dogs. Our goal is to encourage everyone to play training games with their own dogs. Because every single dog loves doing it. And everybody, dogs and people alike, has fun.

The challenge is seeing what your dog can do. Dogs have favorite games, just like people. Some dogs learn Puppy Push-ups in a week. Their 3-Step Pattern Walking takes no time at all. But they just can’t get the hang of “Place!” Or “Stay!”

The only opinion that matters

When you play training games and teach your dog only with reward-based training, there will be loads of people who “know a better, faster way.”

It’s absolutely true that punishment-based training is faster. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. If you’re okay with hurting your dog to achieve quick compliance, there are lots of trainers who teach “yank and crank” methods. But not in this space. And not in our classes.

No treats allowed

There are no treats or rewards allowed during dog sport competitions. You can’t bring anything into the competition ring but your dog. For those few minutes of judging, the dog gets no “reward” other than your smile.

If you’ve built sufficient value in the process, your dog will do what you ask. Just partnering with you, doing familiar, fun things will be enough. And, when your time in the competition ring is over, you can run over to your trial set-up and give your wonderful dog the jackpot they deserve.

Training a Stubborn Dog

It’s astonishingly easy to train a stubborn dog. You just have to keep one fact in mind: Dogs always do what’s most rewarding to them.

That’s true no matter what the circumstances. Dogs may not consciously or visibly weigh the options and “choose” to misbehave. But if what they get for being “good” isn’t as good as what being “bad” gets them, guess what happens?

Figuring it out

Your dog will show you what’s most valuable to them. Our dogs will figuratively walk through fire to get Chicken Heart Treats. It’s at the top of their reward list.

Second on the list for Simon is celery. Booker, on the other hand, thinks celery is disgusting and won’t go near it. If we ask Booker to do something and he knows celery is waiting, he’s not going to do it. Knowing this, we don’t ask.

Not always treats

Dogs are unique individuals with their own preferences. Each one’s motivation will be different. Simon and Booker are both Boston Terriers and are related. But their tastes are as different as can be.

Your dog may not be food motivated at all. But there’s got to be something that they love. Tossing a ball can be a reward. Playing tug can be your dog’s reward. Belly rubs can be a reward. Use what your dog wants to get what you want.

It’s deal-making

Training is a kind of bargain you make with your dog – even a to train a stubborn dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a great deal for everyone.

You have to stick to the agreement. If you start taking your dog for granted, they’ll stop holding up their end. Once your dog knows how to do something, you may not have to reward every time. Once your dog knows “Puppy Push-ups” you don’t have to reward every change of position. But there has to be something in it for them at some point.

From the dog’s perspective

You may wonder, “if dogs always do what’s most rewarding, why do they obey force trainers?” The answer is simple. The dog’s “reward” is not being punished. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. That’s why force training is faster than positive reinforcement. Dogs aren’t stupid.

Dogs also deserve better. Once you appreciate how easy and fun it is to play training games, it’s addictive for both of you. So many of our students have told us how their dogs “nag” them to go play.

This or that?

Sometimes the behavior you’re asking for isn’t as rewarding as what the dog wants to do. We saw a good example recently making the “bowling” video with Torque. We used a big plastic bottle to demonstrate the first steps of the game. When it came time to show the actual game, Torque thought the big plastic bottle was more fun. He made a beeline for it, rather than knock down the pins.

He was showing Hope that the crunchy-sounding bottle was more fun, more rewarding than playing with her. She didn’t get mad, or accuse him of being stubborn. He was doing what was most rewarding at the time. She just reminded him that playing with her was also fun and rewarding.

Stubborn or clueless?

Motivation isn’t always the answer. Sometimes dogs truly don’t understand what their person wants. It could be a different place, or person, or situation that’s throwing off their game. Or it could be they really don’t know.

If that’s the case, you may see your dog disengage, walk away, turn their head, go sniff, scratch, yawn, or even just sit or lie down. These are indicators that your dog doesn’t want to make the “wrong” choice, but doesn’t know what you want. If you see this, back up a step or two, assess what’s different, and help them work through it. It’s not being stubborn. It’s confusion.

Rely on motivators

When you know what motivates your dog, your training gets a whole lot easier. If your dog doesn’t think dog biscuits are worth sitting for, don’t use dog biscuits. Go to the trouble of figuring out what’s most rewarding for your dog. Use it. And be amazed when your formerly stubborn dog is no longer stubborn.