reward-based training Archives - Page 9 of 10

It’s never okay to hurt your dog

Don't let your small dog hide. — It’s never okay to hurt your dog.

Why is it hard to understand that it’s never okay to hurt your dog? That training should never be painful? There’s always a better way.

Last week was a particularly challenging one. One of Hope’s competition Obedience students, who’s been with her class for years, had an electronic collar on her dog.

The collar was black, the dog is black, and it was about half-way through the class before Hope noticed and called the student on it.

The rationale had steam coming from Hope’s ears.

The student, we’ll call her Sharon, likes to take her dog, Phydeaux, to the dog park to run off leash. While there, Phydeaux took it upon himself to jump on an unknown woman, and failed to return to Sharon when called.

Sharon decided this was an “unsafe” situation for Phydeaux. Rather than choosing not to return to the dog park until her dog had a reliable “Come!,” Sharon contacted a different trainer, who insists on a shock collar. Phydeaux must “get used” to wearing it for two weeks, then it gets turned on. Sharon insisted it was okay for Phydeaux to wear the collar in Hope’s class because it wasn’t “on.”

Since it was flashing, it apparently was on – just with no “zapper” remote in the vicinity. Not okay, Sharon.

Just flabbergasted

All of our students know that e-collars, prongs, and choke collars are not allowed in our classes. We will allow martingales, sometimes. Sharon knew it wasn’t allowed, but thought it was “okay” because the zapper wasn’t there.

No, Sharon. Not just in class. It’s never okay to zap your dog.

We understand the concept behind the e-collars. Punishing dogs for doing something you don’t want them to dates back long before these torture devices. That doesn’t make it a good idea.

Think of it this way

On the spur of the moment, we weren’t able to come up with an analogy that would clarify our stance to Sharon. Since she thought it was an okay idea, she’ll probably never understand. But here it is, for you:

Let’s say you adore chocolate. And there’s a wonderful chocolate shop that we take you to enjoy. You can have anything you want, we’ll get it for you. As much as you want.

At some point during the visit to the chocolate shop, you will violate a rule. The rule wasn’t explained to you beforehand. You have no idea what it is. The consequence of violating that unknown rule is that you’ll be zapped with a taser.

You don’t know when it’s coming. You don’t know what triggers its use. You have no idea what you’ve done to deserve it. And yet, you’re flailing on the floor.

So tell us – how do you feel about visits to the chocolate shop now? And about going somewhere with us?

Other options

Sharon could have spent the time and energy teaching Phydeaux a perfect recall. It doesn’t take long with the 2-Minute Trainer course “Come!” She could have used a long line to keep a measure of control. She could have stopped going to the dog park. There are lots of things she could have done.

She chose to hurt her dog, rather than teach him. We used to have some fondness for Sharon. She and her dogs have had some success in our classes, and in the Obedience and Rally trials we’ve prepared her for. If she can so easily cast aside all the tenets of training we’ve shared, that relationship’s changed forever.

News flash: Nobody’s perfect. No dog is perfect, either

Nobody’s perfect. No dog is perfect. Perfection isn’t possible for people or dogs. So stop worrying about it!

The other day we were watching the finals of the U.S. Men’s Figure Skating Championships on tv. Nathan Chen, who is the top-rated competitor in the world, fell on his ass during a (relatively) simple step sequence. Did he become enraged? Did he stomp off in a huff? No. He shrugged, smiled, and laughed it off.

Everybody messes up sometimes. And while we all wish that our public performances were perfect, playing with dogs in any public space has taught us that anything can happen. And far from being derisive or humiliating, the vast majority are sympathetic and understanding. The dog world is full of “been there, done that” stories. And since we all love to talk dogs, you’ll get to hear lots of people’s “Life’s Most Embarassing Moment” stories in dog venues.

No dog is perfect, but here Teddy showed good form jumping. — Teddy showing good form.

Like the time Hope was competing with Teddy in Agility and she tripped over the first jump. On the positive side, it removes all pressure when you mess up before you even start. You still get to go home with the best dog. And, unless you tell him/her – your dog will never know anything’s wrong at all.

Pure souls

We do encourage everyone to train their dogs and find an outlet for that training. It all adds up to living the biggest life possible with your dog. It could be you’d love to do therapy work, or frisbee (disc dog), or Scent Work, or one of our favorites: Rally, Obedience, or Agility. There’s tons of “stuff” to do with dogs, all surrounded by communities full of worth-knowing people.

We’ve mentioned many times that Fran’s Boston Terrier Booker is very special – not in a good way. But he comes close to normal, and thrives, in Rally Obedience class. It’s a happy place for him, where all he has to do is pay attention to his mom and show off “stuff” she’s taught him how to do. He positively prances through the courses – ears up, a bounce in his step.

It’s not about the ribbons, or the competition. It’s about creating an inter-species understanding that’s based on commitment and love. Dogs are really honest creatures. If they don’t know what you want them to do, they’ll either try everything they know to please you, or shut down. If they get it right, they’re thrilled with themselves. If they mess up – they don’t know unless you tell them. Don’t tell them.

“My Bad” Morsels

For every time we mess up in training, our dogs get “My Bad” morsels. We never want our dogs to know that something’s not right. When our attention wanders, we say the wrong thing, we turn the wrong direction, anytime we get it wrong, our dog gets a reward. Why? Because everybody, when they realize they made an error, tends to say something like “Darn!” or worse. And your dog has no way of knowing that disappointment isn’t aimed at them.

To deflect that worry, and let your dog know everything’s okay, deliver a “My Bad” morsel. You can certainly say “My Bad” as you give the treat. That teaches your dog that saying “My Bad” actually means “Good Dog!” You’ll avoid the shut down that can happen if your dog thinks they screwed up.

Be like Nathan

The sooner you learn to shrug, smile, and laugh off the mistakes, the happier you and your dog will be with your training. The more you laugh in training, the more your dog will repeat what made it happen.

This can have unintended consequences. Fran laughs every time Simon “rolls over.” It just makes her giggle. So Simon started rolling over every time she told him to “Down!” It was adorable, but she had to stop giggling if she ever wanted to compete in Rally or Obedience with him. It was a delightfully funny “problem” to solve.

Don’t worry, be happy

2-Minute Training sessions with your dog should be the times every day when you can relax, play with your dog, and forget about anything else that’s causing stress in your life. Each session doesn’t have to be productive, or even particularly purposeful. At least once a week we try for a “Freestyle” session and just let our dog interact with some “stuff” however they want. Everything they try, from nudging a box to batting at a drum, gets a click and a cookie. If there’s some particularly good and creative stuff, it may show up in a training game later. If not, the dog got to have some fun, knock stuff over, get clicks and treats.

No dog is perfect

There’s a saying among dog trainers that every dog is trained to his owner’s level of comfort. The gist is that if it doesn’t bother you, you won’t train your dog not to do it, whatever “it” may be. Dogs require clear explanations of what’s “allowed” vs. not. They learn through the timing and placement of rewards. But we don’t have to be perfect. We just have to get it right most of the time. And our dogs will, too.

Never too many dog training treats

There is no such thing as too many dog treats. Especially when introducing your dog to something new, there can’t be too many rewards. It’s one of the best investments you can make – whether your dog is learning to eliminate outside, or being calm when someone comes in the house, there are never too many dog training treats.

But my dog will get fat!

Every class session there’s a student who worries about their dog getting fat. While we understand the concern, there are ways of controlling your dog’s calories without cutting back on training treats. Use the dog’s regular food for training! Why not? Your dog would love getting food from you instead of a bowl. It will take longer to eat, and you both accomplish something.

If your dog isn’t crazy about their food, try mixing in tidbits of some delicacy to make it more appealing. Measure out their regular portion and stir in some bits of hot dog or cheese. Most dogs love those. One student in our classes even used defrosted, popcorn shrimp. Her dog loved it and the other dogs in class got very good at working despite the distracting smells.

More calorie-friendly tips

There are lots of ways to control your dog’s intake without cutting back on quantities. Every good choice your dog makes deserves a reward. That reward can be a carrot slice, or a green bean. It could even be air-popped popcorn! Most dogs adore it.

Your dog may have a different opinion on things we don’t consider treats; rice cakes, diced celery, apple pieces are all possibilities. If it’s safe for dogs to consume, it’s worth trying. You never know what surprising food item your dog will go crazy for.

But my dog has tummy trouble

This week we talked to a woman whose 16-week-old puppy is on prescription canned food. Per the veterinarian’s advice, he can’t have anything else for a time. After our talk, she’s getting creative. Taking that icky, smelly, gooey canned food and scooping pea-sized “meatballs.” She’s freezing them and using them for training treats.

With a little thought and problem-solving, you can find a way to reward your dog for every single good choice she makes.

Does it have to be food?

Rewards for your dog can be anything the dog enjoys. (A while ago we discussed the various methods of rewarding your dog.) If your dog’s favorite thing in the world (other than you) is a tennis ball, throw the ball as a reward! If it’s a scratch behind the ears, do that. Just acknowledge every single good decision your dog makes. Even if it’s just a “Good Dog!” By itself, praise isn’t usually enough to encourage dogs to repeat a behavior. But interspersed with more substantial treats, it’s fine.

Some people are still stuck in the old-school idea that “Because I said so!” should compel obedience from dogs. It generally doesn’t work with children, and it certainly doesn’t motivate dogs to obey. The idea of positive reinforcement training is to get your dog to understand “good” behavior. The stuff that’s rewarded will be repeated. If there’s no reward, there’s no reason to do it again.

Transfer of value

Once you and your dog have developed a training game habit, you’ll find your dog eager to play training games with you for the sheer fun of it. When that happens, you can randomize rewards. Instead of rewarding each step in a sequence, a treat for “job well done!” is enough.

The game itself becomes the reward for your dog. Having your complete attention and focus, even if it’s only for 2-Minutes, is enough to make your dog happy. They learn, your relationship deepens, you understand each other better. Life with your dog improves with every reward delivered.

Forbidden fruit is sweetest

There’s a streak in all of us that’s a bit rebellious. The thing you’re absolutely not supposed to do is the most appealing option. It’s true for dogs, too. Forbidden fruit is sweetest.

As an example: There’s a narrow little walkway next to the unattached garage that goes back to the alley. We’ve gated it off at the edge of the garage – there’s no reason the dogs have to line up at that back portion to watch/bark at the people walking their dogs down the alley.

It’s just a little path, no more than a couple of feet wide. There’s nothing interesting back there – just the pooper scooper and bucket, the walk, and some edging stones. Absolutely nothing to fascinate dogs.

But it’s the best thing/place/activity

Naturally, the dogs became obsessed with getting behind that gate. Our normally gate-respecting dogs got it into their heads that the citadel must be breached! So they did. Battered right through the gate to go sniffing around.

The first, and totally natural reaction, is to yell for them to get out of there, get a bit angry, grab their collars and haul them back to the “safe” zone. That would have worked – for the moment.

But it also would have emphasized the space as important – something that got them all kinds of attention. Remember – dogs don’t distinguish between “good” attention and “bad” attention. They have your focus, and that’s their favorite thing.

Still the hardest thing

Simon and Booker, far away from the forbidden but attractive gate

Instead, we worked to make the area as uninteresting as possible. We opened the gate wide and went to the other side of the yard where we proceeded to reward any dog who decided to come with us to the “good” side. By ignoring the naughty behavior, we changed it from “attractive” to “boring.”

It still goes against natural instinct. When we see a miscreant doing something they shouldn’t, we absolutely want to call them on it. But again – that’s drawing attention to the thing. A while back we wrote about the hardest part of dog training: patience! Patience pays in all aspects of training!

It took a few tries, but that gate and area have lost the dogs’ interest and they’re on to new and different ways to push our buttons.

People love forbidden fruit, too

It’s a reminder of how similarly human and canine minds work. Back in the day, many of our friends’ parents kept their liquor cabinets locked. And our friends plotted ways to get into those cabinets and into trouble. It was a “thing.”

Our house worked a little differently. The liquor was always accessible on a shelf. It was no big deal. On the rare occasion that the adults in the house had a cocktail, we asked for a taste and were given one. For the most part, we found the taste nasty and would happily go back to our own “special” drinks. It was a rare treat to have a soda and we thoroughly enjoyed our Canfield’s 50/50 for cocktail hour.

Dogs’ minds work very much like ours. If you make something “off limits” it can become more attractive. You’ll find that bright, inquiring little mind obsessing over things they oughtn’t. A better alternative is to minimize the importance so it loses its attraction.

It’s an example of how doing nothing is so important, and so difficult. Our attitude, attention, posture, and focus all communicate to our dogs. If we focus on the “bad” stuff, our dogs will, too. Instead, communicate clearly with your dog by rewarding them with good timing and good placement. If you want your dog away from that gate – go away from that gate and reward when they come with you.

Doggie see, doggie do – dogs learn from other dogs

Dogs are sponges. They watch, and absorb. And dogs learn from other dogs, as well as from people.

One of the great things about having multiple dogs is that they do learn from each other. It’s easier to housebreak a puppy when you have an older, housebroken dog. The puppy copies what the older dog does. Same thing with the household routine. If the already-trained dog waits to go out the door until it’s allowed, the puppy will figure out the rules, too.

Idol worship

Dogs learn from dogs - baby Booker is with his idol Tango in a small dog bed. — Baby Booker emulates his idol Tango – dogs learn from dogs.

It helps if the older dog is puppy-friendly and likes having the little one around. They will be more tolerant of puppy shenanigans, and actively teach the puppy what’s okay and what’s not. When the play gets too rough, you may see the older dog holding the puppy down. It’s entirely appropriate and teaches the pup when enough is enough.

Puppies tend to be single-mindedly selfish little creatures. They want what they want when they want it. If they see another dog waiting patiently for food or other desirable thing, they’ll learn to emulate that behavior. However, for everyone’s safety, we do recommend separating, even crating the puppy for feeding time. This has the dual benefit of teaching the puppy that crates are good, and making sure the older dog won’t feel they have to guard a valuable resource like food. The older dog will probably also appreciate a chance to relax and enjoy his meal without worry.

Flip side of the coin

Dogs learn all kinds of wonderful things by watching other dogs. Ours seem to absorb the training games we play just by watching. When it’s their turn, they jump right in, seeming to know stuff we don’t remember teaching.

The downside is that puppies also absorb all the things you’d rather they wouldn’t, too. And they tend to learn the “bad” stuff even more quickly than the good stuff.

If you have one dog that barks at any movement on your street, the puppy will probably develop the same habit, too. To avoid perpetuating the cycle, you have to take an active role. Because it’s almost impossible to train two dogs at the same time, you must set your priority.

Barking up a storm

In the barking example – if the dog has been doing it for any length of time, it’s going to take a concerted, consistent effort to change the habit. Rather than trying to “fix” the older dog’s behavior, it’s simpler to avoid the situation with the puppy. By nature, some dogs are “better” watchdogs than others, but all can become barkers.

When the older dog barks, the puppy will probably run to see what’s going on. To show they’re being a good student, they may even join the barking, without even knowing why.

Instead of yelling at everyone to “be quiet!” – call the puppy and run the other way. Find a toy and start playing. Turn the other dog’s bark into a reason to come to you! If you’re a lot of fun and your game plan is exciting, you may even get the older dog to join the fun, rather than persist in barking. (We discussed another way of “breaking the feedback loop” a little while ago.

Timing is never good

There’s never really a “good” time to get another dog. Life has a way of interrupting plans. If you’re considering adding another dog to your family, it’s best to be ready when the opportunity presents.

To get ready – take an honest look at the dog you already have. Are there any behaviors or habits that you’d hate for a puppy to develop? If so, now is the time to teach your present dog to be better. Develop a plan, setting the goal you want to achieve. Then back-chain the steps you need to take to get there. Turn each step into a training game.

With a plan in place and a goal in mind, even if the puppy doesn’t show up at your doorstep, the dog you have will benefit from training games. You’ll both be happier.

Dogs don’t grow out of bad habits

If your puppy or dog has developed a bad habit, we have some bad news for you. He’s not going to grow out of bad habits or give them up.

Dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. If they’re getting their jollies from doing something naughty they’re going to keep doing it. Unless you provide a more rewarding option. It’s as simple as that.

Stealing socks

This labrador puppy will not grow out of bad habits. — Yes, he’s cute, but dogs don’t grow out of bad habits.

One of the puppies in our Beginner Obedience class steals socks. It started when he was little and grabbing socks off the floor. Now he’s a 60-lb., eight-month-old, powerful Lab and he’s grabbing socks from the drawer when his mom opens it.

Unless something changes, we expect his next move will be learning to open the drawer by himself.

Mom, a first-time dog owner, asked in class “But isn’t he going to grow out of it?”

No. No, he’s not. He thinks that the whole process, sneaking up beside Mom when she opens the drawer, grabbing the sock, taking off with his prize, and being chased all over, is a fantastic game. Why would he change it?

Better alternative

Because this is an established routine, Mom is going to have to work a bit harder to get it to stop. The first step is to find another game that’s even more fun. It can be as simple as finding an actual toy to play tug with while you get your socks.

Or you can take the opportunity to play “Whatcha Gonna Do?” and teach the dog to leave the sock drawer (food on the counter, garbage can, etc.) alone.

Be prepared

Have treats handy – either in a bowl out of reach, a pouch or fanny pack, (hardware store nail aprons are good dog-training-treat holders). When you’re near the sock drawer, just stand there and wait for the dog to do something good. If he sits, click and treat.

Reach for the drawer. Wait for a good decision. Click and treat.

Open the drawer slightly. Be ready to either close the drawer or click and treat good choices.

Step by step, wait for your dog to make good decisions. It will teach him how to behave in almost any circumstance. Your dog will learn that it’s more rewarding to ask for permission than forgiveness.

It may take longer than imposing your will, but it will work better for everyone in the long run. Teaching your dog to make good decisions translates to every aspect of life. From stealing socks to counter-surfing, as we wrote about a few months back.

Habit persists

Habit is one of the more powerful forces in the universe. And changing a bad habit requires determination. Dogs don’t grow out of bad habits, but they can change.

Until the new, good behavior takes the place of the naughty one, it’s up to us to manage the environment so the dog can’t practice bad behavior. A mistake or two isn’t the end of the world, but it will take progress back a notch or two.

Be patient, go step-by-step, and schedule a few extra minutes to get dressed in the morning. It’s worth it.

What to do when your dog plays keep away

Puppies are notorious for playing keep away. They grab stuff off the ground and run off with it. Lots of dogs retain the habit. When your dog plays keep away it’s a bad thing – for everyone.

The puppy could have something toxic, or that he could choke on. And everyone’s first instinct is to grab whatever it is. Which can get you bitten, or cause the puppy to shy away from you when you chase him to retrieve the thing.

What’s the alternative?

The puppy we’ve been fostering since the beginning of July is notorious for hoarding sticks and rocks. It’s the first thing he does when he gets out the door. He checks out his stash and picks something to carry around and chew on.

All of his beloved “outside toys” are carefully inspected. He’s only allowed to keep rocks too large to swallow, and sticks that are thick and flexible. And none of them are allowed inside.

He knows this. Sometimes he’s reluctant to drop it, even when he wants to come back in the house. He’ll dash away from the door, an initial bout of keep away.

Avoiding the “keep away” game

Charging after a puppy who’s run off with contraband is never a good idea. The best way to catch a pup is to have them chase you. So the first game to try is “Catch Me If You Can” – run away calling the dog’s name.

Most can’t resist the chase, especially if you make it exciting. Yell, clap, run heavy so your shoes slap down. If you’re interesting enough, the puppy will even drop the contraband. They forget about the “thing” in the excitement of a new game. (Our 2-Minute Trainer Book 2: Come! includes detailed instructions for the “Catch Me If You Can” game.)

Distract them with play

Any game your dog loves to play should work as a good distraction. “Catch Me” is the most exciting, but it’s not the only arrow in the quiver. Our foster puppy’s favorite game is “Touch.”

A hand touch is a great behavior that can help when your dog plays keep away. — Simon is demonstrating the “Touch” game – great for when your dog plays keep away

We play “Touch” a lot with our dogs because it’s the easiest to use in any situation. All you need is you and some treats. It can be quiet and calm, or it can be active and exciting. That’s determined by you – how vigorously are you moving? How is your voice pitched? You don’t have to be loud – even a whisper can be exciting.

Practical application

When we want Mister foster puppy to drop the “thing” and come to us, we show him the palm of our hand and say “Touch!” He knows that every single touch earns him a treat. When he gets going he looks like a chicken bobbing for seed, shoving that muzzle into our hand.

It works. He forgets about that day’s rock, or stick, and comes running over to play his favorite game. Puppy loves playing, so he gets what he wants – a chance to play and treats. And we get what we want – the puppy comes to us.

Building the basis

You can start playing “Touch” today. Two minutes a day and it will become a valued part of your dog’s repertoire pretty quickly. How much your dog loves the game depends on you. Decide you love it. What could possibly be cuter than your dog sticking his face in your hand? Reward promptly, for every touch, with incredibly yummy treats. Make sure that your dog is really planting that muzzle in your palm. No waving the nose at your fingers! And the reward should be as close to your palm, and your dog’s muzzle, as possible. Your reward will be having a “go-to” game you can play anywhere.

We pull out the “Touch” game whenever our dogs are nervous. If we’re at the veterinarian’s office and they’re not sure, it’s a perfect time. Or anywhere they’ve never been before and they’re unsure.

It’s also a great game to distract your dog when they see something on a walk that’s completely caught their attention. It could be a squirrel, skunk, or even another dog that’s staring at them. When you need your dog to focus on you, it’s time to pull out your palm and get them facing a different direction.

Don’t grab and go

If you have a dog or puppy who’s a “snatch and run” criminal, whether it’s shoes in the house, or icky stuff outside, it is important to act quickly. Dogs seem to chew and swallow incredibly quickly when it’s something they know they shouldn’t have.

And it’s fighting your every instinct to not dash over, grab the dog, and do a finger sweep of their mouth. If you succumb to that temptation, your dog will learn to run away, hide the contraband, and avoid you at all costs.

Having a go-to game, like “Touch” will take the stress out of the situation. It’s a win/win. Your dog gets to play a game they love. And you get your dog to drop the thing.

Making a game of dog manners

Dog manners are like classic books. Everyone wants to have read them, but nobody wants to actually read them. Every dog needs to know household manners, but teaching them can be tedious. How many times can you say “Leave it!” or “Off!”

We get it. Teaching your dog to “gimme paw,” “roll over,” or “spin” is fun. It’s not only light-hearted, it’s usually pretty quick. Whereas teaching your dog not to jump on visitors takes time and effort. You’re also starting at a disadvantage – “taking away” something is harder than “adding on.”

Change your mindset

But it’s all a matter of perception. You know “manners” aren’t as much fun as “tricks.” But that’s an entirely human construct. We naturally are more resistant to things we “have” to do, as opposed to the things we “want” to do. Nobody likes to do their chores!

Your dog doesn’t know the difference. Your dog only knows that you’re paying attention to her. And she likes it! That, however, can change. If your tone and body language change when you approach the “Not Fun” training sessions, your dog will pick up on it and reflect your mood. If you don’t like it, your dog won’t either.

Don’t lie to your dog

You don’t have to pretend you love the Get it! / Leave it! dog training game. You should, however, approach it with the same enthusiasm you show toward the fun stuff. It’s not the game that matters. It’s carving out the time to focus on your partnership with your dog. Every single 2-Minute session adds to the relationship.

And when your dog shows that he understands “Leave it!” as thoroughly as “High Five!,” celebrate with the same reaction. Have a little party with treats, toys, and tugging! The things that are hard, like dog manners, should be celebrated even harder when they’re conquered. It’s easy to overlook good behavior because it’s what we expect. But your dog will be “good” more if it looks, sounds, and feels better than being “naughty.”

Everybody does it

As competitors in dogs performance sports, there are all kinds of precise positions/behaviors that we practice with our dogs. The vast majority of obedience performance scores are all about “Heeling,” so we do it a lot.

How do you make a game of walking around with your dog? Especially when he’s supposed to be watching you the whole time, exactly aligned with you?

Easily! You start by meeting your dog’s eyes and smiling. This is the best dog in the whole wide world and he’s yours! Then you ask your dog “Do you wanna play with me?” And the tail-wag or wiggling butt lets you know that your dog is ready for any game. Even boring old “heeling.”

Not a marathon

The next step is setting up in absolutely perfect heel position, and telling your dog how wonderful that is. You set off, (leading with your left foot!) telling your dog “Heel!” as you’re about to take your first step. He responds matching you perfectly, tail wagging happily. And after three perfect steps, you break off and celebrate. “Yay, dog!” Here’s a treat! Or a tummy rub. Or a quick fetch your toy!

Three perfect, happy steps are a great foundation. We don’t have to heel a mile. Not even a block. We’d rather do a few steps perfectly than lose the enthusiasm for the game. It also keeps it fresh for us. Perfect heeling is, in all honesty, a pleasure to watch. And a pain in the butt to achieve. It’s also one of the dog classics.

The hardest part of dog training

What do you think is the hardest part of dog training?

There are lots of possibilities; timing, coordination, remembering, getting focus, carving out the time to play training games. But all of those are just a matter of practicing. They all get easier with experience. The more training games you play with your dog, the better you get at it.

The “Winner” is

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing. It’s standing like a statue, not saying anything, not doing anything, while your dog acts a fool. She’s barking, jumping, biting at the leash.

The hardest part of dog training is doing nothing when your dog is misbehaving.

If you’re in public, it’s embarrassing and you want to make her stop. If you’re at home, it’s still annoying and you want her to knock it off.

The best thing you can do is stand there, hands folded, silent. When her little temper tantrum wears off, she’ll probably remember that sitting quietly gets her the attention, and reward, that she wants. It can be annoying, frustrating, even infuriating, to wait for that moment. But it’s worth it.

Let the dog decide

If we “make” our dog behave, by holding their collar or tightening the leash, we’re giving them exactly what they want – our complete attention. We’re reacting to them, instead of waiting for them to choose better and get rewarded for good behavior. Waiting for your dog to “see the light” can be a painful process. But it’s worth it. We teach our dogs how to get what they want, instead of letting the dog manipulate us.

It’s really, really hard not to snatch your hand away when your dog starts nibbling at it to get the treats. (The “Whatcha gonna do?” game in Book 4: Impulse Control.) But the motion of lifting your hand looks, to your dog, like you’re engaging in the game he chose. Yelling at your dog for barking is “playing” the barking game, seen from the dog’s perspective.

Think, don’t react

Doing nothing is the hardest part of dog training. But sometimes it’s the only way to show our dogs how to choose better. Pay close attention to your own reactions to your dog’s silly/obnoxious behaviors. Are you inadvertently encouraging it? Do you engage with your dog when he’s acting the fool?

Try ignoring it, instead. If he’s really being obnoxious, walk away. If he persists, go into the bathroom and lock him out. When he quiets down and his brain engages again, reward it! Play a rowdy game of tug, or fetch! Play on your terms, not when your dog dictates.

Right and wrong are different

Show your dog what right and wrong look like. Right should be full of energy, treats, toys, play, and fun. Wrong should be dull. Not nearly as much fun as being good.

As soon as your dog chooses wisely, reward, reward, reward! Making good choices is the foundation of game-based dog training. Love it when you see it!

Dog decision making – help your dog choose wisely

Dogs, like people, are always making decisions. Which toy should I play with? Is this the best chewy toy in the house? Which bush should I pee on? She called me – should I “come?” The crux of positive reinforcement training is guiding dog decision making. Building the understanding that what you want, and what your dog wants, are the same thing.

We’ve talked before about dogs not caring about being “good.” They don’t even know what it is. Dogs will always do the “thing” that’s most valuable to them. It’s our job to build value in good decisions.

For example:

Fran’s 2-year-old Boston Terrier Simon doesn’t always love Hope’s 6-year-old French Bulldog Torque. For unknown reasons, he just rubs him the wrong way sometimes.

We watch the interactions between the two very carefully. During supervised play times, Simon wears a leash that Fran hangs onto. It’s not to drag him back, it’s to prevent contact. Torque will try and get away when Simon loses his temper. The leash is to make sure Simon doesn’t follow.

When Simon’s body language tells us that he might be taking umbrage, Fran calls him to her. She’s been doing this consistently. Last night we were delighted to see him make a wonderful decision. Simon was losing his cool, his hackles started to raise, he was staring at Torque. We saw it and Fran started calling Simon in a happy voice – one that he knows always results in rewards.

He thought about it. You could see him pause. And then he ran over to Fran, away from Torque, and was completely and thoroughly praised and rewarded.

Make it worthwhile

Simon is always rewarded for making good decisions.

Would Simon have made the same, good decision, if it didn’t “pay?” He could very well have gotten supreme satisfaction from going after the other dog. He didn’t because he knew that Fran would praise him, play with him, and give him treats for going to her. It was more rewarding to Simon to be doted on. Good dog decision making, Simon!

That’s why you never call your dog to you for something he/she doesn’t like. If your dog hates getting a bath, go and get him/her. Don’t try to fool your dog, either. Don’t call him/her into the bathroom, give a treat, and then shove him/her in the tub. Not fair.

Never too late for training good dog decision making

Positive reinforcement, and 2-Minute-Trainer training games, are all about guiding our dogs into making the best choices. Being a “good dog” may not be something dogs understand. Getting rewarded is speaking their language. Dogs will repeat behavior that’s rewarded. They’re smart enough to discard what doesn’t work for them.

Your attention, treats, and play are all rewards your dog will try to get. When you witness your dog making a good decision, be sure he/she is lavishly rewarded. You can’t “spoil” your dog with praise, treats, or playtime.

There’s no such thing as too much praise for good behavior. If you slack off, or let good dog decision making go unnoticed, you’ll lose it. Dogs are wonderful, adaptable creatures. They’re also in the “what have you done for me lately” camp. If something that used to get rewarded no longer does, they’ll stop doing it.