positive reinforcement dog training Archives

Greetings Game: Statue and Fuss

We call the Greetings Game “Statue and Fuss.” That describes the people’s assignment, not the dog’s. It’s up to the humans to demonstrate what happens when the dog jumps (Statue) vs. sits (Fuss).

The vast majority of dogs are happy to see you. They love meeting people. Dogs will offer an enthusiastic welcome even if you’ve only been gone two minutes. Exuberant dogs reach a level of excitement that has them, literally, bouncing off the walls, the floor, the furniture, and you.

Most people don’t really like dogs jumping on them. They’ll tell you it’s okay, but you know it’s really not. The problem is getting your dog to clue in on that, too.

Imposing polite

One of the reasons this behavior is hard to extinguish is that you may not get a lot of cooperation from other people. When they’re puppies, dogs are incredibly cute, small, and fairly harmless. People like having little puppies say hello to them. Most people will even override your wishes, insisting “It’s okay. I want to say hi!”

Enforcing your training protocols when other people are around takes a lot of fortitude and a willingness to seem rude. If people ask “May I pet your puppy?” (most won’t bother to ask) and you say “Not if he’s jumping on you,” most people will stampede right over what you say and reach for your bouncing, wiggling, adorable dog. Don’t let them.

That’s easier said than done. But every violation of the protocol you set means a step back in training. That’s one of the reasons teaching polite greetings takes time.

Statue and Fuss

The Greetings Game requires that you set it up with a trusted person. Don’t play the game in public before your dog has a pretty thorough understanding. It’ll just be frustrating for both of you.

Depending on how nutsy crazy your dog is to meet people, you have a couple of options for the setup.

If your dog is a wildly excited jumping fool, don’t start with a doorbell and someone coming into the house. Have your dog on collar and leash and have your helper come into the room and walk up to you and your dog. Instruct the person not to look at the dog, pet the dog, or interact with the dog in any way.

When the person comes over to you, do not tell your dog to sit. The dog has to learn to make a good decision. Don’t make it for them. They have to find out on their own what will get them what they want.

If the dog is jumping and being generally manic, your helper person should stand there, arms folded, staring at the wall behind you or the ceiling. When the dog sits, or at least has four paws on the ground, the helper should immediately fuss over the dog, pet the dog, and talk to the dog. And be ready to instantly stop if the dog jumps. In mid-word, if necessary, revert to “statue” mode. Stop, fold arms, stare at ceiling.

The alternating statue/fuss will demonstrate to the dog what they need to do to get what they want. Dogs get what they want (attention) when we get what we want (manners).

Not quite so nutsy

If your dog is exuberant but not over-the-top, you can play the same game of Statue and Fuss, but start with someone entering the house, not just the room. When your dog starts remembering to sit when someone comes in, you can add the next level of thrill – the doorbell.

There will, inevitably, be incidents where the person slips up and fusses over the dog when they should be a statue. It’s hard to resist giving attention to a being that so clearly adores you. That’s why it takes a while to build the habit of polite greetings.

When you embark on teaching your dog polite greetings, be sure that everyone in the house is in on it. If you’re trying to teach your dog to make good decisions and your partner is dragging the dog off people, it’s not going to work. Everyone has to be willing to play Statue and Fuss. Do everyone a favor and make sure your dog’s nails are short and smooth before you start. Statues take a bit of a mauling when you start playing the game.

Let your dog look

Ever heard the quote from Robert Heinlein’s Lazarus Long “Never attempt to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and annoys the pig.” ? There’s a lot of wisdom in choosing to fight only the battles you have a chance of winning. You can’t start playing training games, or do any kind of training, unless you have your dog’s attention. And you’ll never get their focus on you if you expect them to laser-focus on you and ignore other dogs, people, treats, etc. Do yourself a favor. Stop fighting a losing battle. Let your dog look.

Face the distraction

One of the most futile things everyone does in training class is try to turn their dogs away from whatever’s attracting their attention. It’s not going to work. It’s just going to divide your dog’s attention – they know they should be listening to you. But there’s a dog over there! Or a person walking! Or a Squirrel!

Dogs are hard-wired to notice motion. That’s a common trait among all predators. It’s not something you can change, nor should you. Instead of trying to fight your dog’s instinct, work with it. Don’t try to get your dog to ignore the distraction. Let them face it. You move between the dog and the distractor. Let them watch. Don’t let them get closer. You don’t let them check it out. Just let them look.

At some point they’ll look back at you. That’s when you pounce! Give them a treat, a toy, a big, fat, juicy reward for focusing on you. That’s when it’s your job to be more interesting than anything else around.

Isn’t that letting the dog win?

It’s not a contest. You and your dog are a team. Neither of you is trying to beat the other. In this case, you may have to concede, for a minute or two, that your dog finds watching whatever it is more rewarding than paying attention to you. So you let that distraction become familiar.

An old saw says “Familiarity breeds contempt.” That’s what we’re going for. When your dog comes to the realization that playing with you is more fun, interesting, and rewarding than staring at the dog across the room, that’s when you both win. You want your dog to become familiar with the world around them. Then they can successfully ignore it and focus on you.

A pivotal decision

The first meeting of a new dog training class is always loud and a bit chaotic. That’s because everything is new and different to every one of the dogs. By the next class, and certainly by the third, the dogs are accustomed to the routine and calm prevails.

When your dog is obsessing over something over there, it can be frustrating. You know there’s nothing interesting. But there’s no way to explain that to your dog. This is one of those times when you muster your strength for the hardest part of dog training – waiting. You don’t repeat things your dog isn’t listening to. You don’t wave a cookie in their face. Initially, you don’t do anything but wait.

Your stillness may prove more interesting to your dog than all the gyrations you’ve tried before. Because you’ve never done nothing to attract your dog’s attention. You’ve tried everything else, now it’s time to do something that might actually work.

Let your dog look, and then look back at you

Your dog may think you’re broken, because the pattern they’re used to isn’t there. When they finally do check in with you, praise and reward lavishly. Your dog will think it’s a pretty good deal if all they have to do is look at you to get a jackpot. Next time you wait for your dog’s attention will be shorter. In time, the distractions will get a glance and you’ll get the dog’s attention.

Play the hard training games

Remember when you were in school and there were classes you loved, classes that were okay, and those you loathed? Your dog’s version of school is playing training games with you. There are some games they love. And others that they have a hard time with. If you want your dog to live up to their full potential, you have to play the hard training games.

Fortunately, even if you play the tough ones every day, it’s only a couple minutes at a time. The agony will soon be over. And one day, probably sooner than you’d expect, it will suddenly click for your dog and that impossible game becomes a favorite. That’s the way it happens.

Dark, dark, dark, dark. Light Bulb!

A great example is Hope’s French Bulldog Torque learning the “Send Away Sit” (#306) sign in Rally. When you come to the sign, you and your dog stop. The dog sits. Then you tell your dog to go to a pylon or cone which is about six feet away (the Send Away part). You tell your dog to “Sit!”

For the longest time, Torque didn’t understand it at all. Hope tried everything: a target near the pylon, a mat, throwing a treat or a toy. Torque just was not getting it. He wouldn’t go far enough, or too far. He wouldn’t sit, or moved away to sit.

It’s not like Hope pounded away at it. She’d try for a couple minutes about every other week or so. While each little session was a bit frustrating, the failure wasn’t allowed to color all of their training games. Then, after a few months of occasionally trying, it clicked. Now Torque gets it perfectly every time. It took a while, but once it did, it stuck like glue.

If it matters, keep trying

Not everybody has competition goals. Mastering a particular Rally skill may not be on your radar. That’s okay. There are everyday behaviors that are difficult for dogs, yet vital for everyday life. Jumping on people is a good example. If your dog’s idea of saying “Hi! I love you!” is to jump on someone, that’s a problem. If they’ve been doing it for a while, it may take a while to fix. But it’s worth it. Polite greetings require dogs to think, to suppress their impulses, to make good choices.

Just because something is difficult doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing. When you were a child, was it easy to learn how to ride a bicycle? Or tie your shoelaces? Did your friends or siblings have an easier time than you did? There were also things that you understood faster and more easily than they did.

Lean into the hard stuff

It’s unfortunately an absolute truth that the training games your dog understands least are the most important ones to play. This week we introduced the impulse-control game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” in our puppy class. One of the puppies got it in no time. It was almost like he’d been waiting for a chance to shine. Another puppy, who had far exceeded the first in every other game, had a terrible time. During class he showed no sign of understanding at all. And that’s the game we recommend his people play the most.

Almost all of the training games are designed to teach your dog skills that make your life together easier, happier, and more fun. Playing some of them may seem pointless when your dog just isn’t catching on. Dog training isn’t a steady upward climb. There are dips and angles, triumphs and failures. Overall, the trajectory is upwards. The training game your dog finds impossible now will be puppy’s play in a few weeks.

Keeping your sessions fast, fun, and short means there’s always another chance to have fun with your dog. If you play three training games a day (just about 15 minutes), there will be a major difference in your dog’s behavior and understanding in just a couple weeks. Prove it to yourself. Take video of a session with a difficult training game today. Play that game a couple times a week for a month. After that month, take another video and compare. The evidence of progress will be right before your eyes.

Check in with your partner

You may be the one who pays the rent, buys the food, and sets the thermostat. You may even consider yourself the superior partner in your relationship with your dog. But that doesn’t mean you get their unwavering attention 24/7. Depending on the individual dog, it may come close. But you still have to check in with your partner.

All dog training is a partnership and a bargain you make with your dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a pretty good deal, if you look at it that way. But you still can’t take it for granted.

Graphic example

Before every exercise in competition Obedience, the judge asks “Are you ready?” We simulate this in our classes, asking every student before every exercise. Newcomers in the class will, just like in competition, meet our eyes, smile, and say “Ready!”

No, they’re not. It’s usually one of the first opportunities we have to yell at our students. It may be polite to look someone in the eye when you’re talking to them. If you’re at the start line, ready to compete with your dog, forget polite. Before you answer, check with your dog. If the dog meets your eyes and is paying attention, you can answer ready. If they’re not, you get to say, “Not yet!” and engage your dog before you answer “Ready!”

Even with beginners

We also teach Puppy and Beginner classes. The biggest issue, especially in the first class session, is getting the dogs to focus on their people. Expecting them to ignore the new place, new people, and other dogs is asking a lot.

That’s why we start with the super-fun game Puppy Push-ups. Most dogs know at least one of the three positions (Sit, Stand, Down). So we start with a fast, fun game that has the dog paying attention and lots of rewards. The faster they switch position, the more treats come their way. It also helps that most people automatically stand in front of their dogs and block their view of distractions.

Keep their focus

The best definition of a “well socialized dog” is one who can be comfortable enough in any situation to pay attention to their person. Dogs are allowed to check out their surroundings. They can look around, even sniff intriguing scents. They also check in with their person regularly.

You should return the courtesy. Before you start something new, let your dog know what’s happening. If you’ve played the Name Game, all it should take to get their attention is saying their name. Once you have their focus, begin.

When you practice loose-leash walking, don’t just start moving. If your dog isn’t paying attention, the leash is immediately tight. Set yourself and your dog up for success. Get their attention. Say “Let’s go” or something to let them know something’s going on.

Surprises are bad

Once in motion, get in the habit of checking in with your dog when you’re about to stop or change directions. Can you imagine what it feels like to be walking with a friend and they constantly tug on your sleeve, or your shirt collar, to guide you? It’d be uncomfortable and intrusive. Why couldn’t they just say “this way!”

Don’t let the leash be your means of communication with your dog. Tell them. Use your voice and meet their eyes. Your dog wants to be with you. Check in with your partner and tell them where you’re going.

Walk Around Your Dog Training Game

Dogs like to be where the action is. Preferably right in front of you and able to watch everything that’s going on. Most of the time, that’s fine. It only becomes a problem for most people when they’re on the move and the dog insists on being in the path. The best example we’ve heard is when you’re trying to carry the boiling pasta pot from the stove to the sink. The dog, of course, is in the middle of the kitchen, right in your path. And, as you try to get around them, they have to move so they can see every move you make. Every step you take. They’ll be watching you. That’s when the Walk Around Your Dog training game is extremely helpful.

Most dogs don’t realize that they’re perfectly capable of watching without moving. It’s almost as if they can’t figure out what necks are for and turning their heads never even occurred to them. One of the Beginner Novice Obedience exercises is to put your dog in a “Sit/Stay!” in the center of the ring, leave them, and walk around the entire perimeter of the ring. When the exercise was first introduced, many experienced competitors considered it more difficult than the old five-minute out-of-dog’s sight stay.

One of the things to look for when teaching this kind of rock-solid stay is your dog’s head flip. When you start moving behind your dog, do they get up to follow your motion? Or, as you pass behind them, do they flip their head from one side to the other to watch you? The head flip is a good indication the dog knows what they’re supposed to be doing. And they might even do it.

A step at a time

Before you start playing the game, it’s a good idea to assess how far around you can get. Many dogs get up as soon as their person gets to their shoulder. Others are non-starters. If the person moves, they move. Still others will let you get to about their hips before they start swiveling around.

It’s important to note here that dogs are absolutists. They only understand “yes” or “no.” There’s no “maybe” or “sometimes” with dogs. That means any motion, other than the dog’s head or tail, means the dog doesn’t understand “Stay!” You’re not being mean, or too picky by not accepting less-than-perfect stays. You’re actually making it easier for your dog to understand what you want. If you accept a “sort of” behavior from your dog, your dog will never really know what you really want.

Start by getting a treat and holding it at your dog’s nose. Leave your hand exactly where it is as you try to step around your dog. Your hand doesn’t move. You also don’t actually give the dog the treat. See how far around your dog you can go.

If you get all the way around, that’s great! Give your dog the treat. Then try it with your dog by your side instead of in front.

Baby steps

If you didn’t get all the way around, you’re with most people. The vast majority of dogs start moving as soon as their people do. Start again, taking it much slower. If you can’t get anywhere, just stand in front of your dog, treat almost on their nose. Lean or sway to the side, back and forth. If your dog holds steady, give them the treat and start again. This time, move one foot slightly. Build slowly, one little bit of motion at a time. This is hard for dogs – you’re fighting against their instinct to always be in front of you. Reward for the tiniest bit of progress. Show your dog they’re getting it right.

You don’t always have to go the same way around your dog. In Obedience and Rally your dog is always on your left, so you always go counter-clockwise around your dog. That’s not necessary in everyday life. However, we always tell our competition students not to “fix it” when their dogs mess up. Move just a couple steps away and start over. That way the dog doesn’t incorporate the “fix” into the behavior.

It’ll come eventually

The “Walk Around Your Dog” can take quite a while to communicate to your dog. It’s one of those behaviors that your dog doesn’t seem to understand at all. And then, possibly weeks later, all of a sudden they get it and it’s rock solid.

Don’t hammer away at “Walk Around Your Dog.” Visit the game a couple of times a week and be satisfied adding a step at a time. Be sure to heavily reward any progress. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. Getting it right, especially when it’s difficult, has to be significantly different from wrong. A jackpot for any incremental progress is a good idea.

Testing it out

We’re always putting our dogs’ “Walk Around Your Dog” to the test. With a small house and four dogs, you’re always trying to walk around somebody. It helps a lot if only one being is in motion at a time.

When to stop rewarding the dog

Dog training students always want to know when they can stop rewarding dogs. The answer’s easy. When you don’t care if the dog keeps doing whatever it is.

If you don’t care if your dog sits automatically when you stop moving, stop rewarding it.

If you don’t mind if your dog jumps on guests, stop rewarding polite greetings.

If it doesn’t matter that your dog eliminates outside, stop rewarding the dog.

Stuck forever

On the other hand, if you like what your dog is doing and want them to keep doing it, the rewards have to keep going. You won’t always need treats available in all rooms at all times. But you do have to acknowledge your dog’s good behavior somehow.

The form that takes depends on your dog. If your dog likes jaw scratches, do that. If a hearty “Good Girl!” makes their butt wiggle, use that. But if your dog has a “show me the money” personality, you’d better fork over the goods.

Keep in mind that dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. You can believe as hard as you want that your dog should “know better” by now. But if every instance is a decision-making process, you want the dog’s choice to land on the side of the angels. There’s nothing wrong with stacking the deck to make sure that happens.

Dashing down the stairs

Our dogs all love playing training games. Our morning routine includes a trip down the stairs to the basement training space. Consequently, our dogs all love going downstairs. For a very long time, Simon would dash down the stairs whenever the door opened. Even if we were just reaching for a coat on the stairway coat hooks.

It took some time and effort to convince Simon that he wasn’t supposed to bolt down the stairs as soon as the door opened. We took the time and effort to set the situation up, teaching him to sit, wait, and move only when he heard his release word. In the beginning, the “Sit!” got a food reward. So did the “Wait.” For Simon, the release word means he gets to do what he wants – go downstairs. That’s the reward for good behavior. The food reward isn’t necessary.

He doesn’t always get to go downstairs. Sometimes we’re just reaching for that jacket. Our hand on the doorknob is his cue to “Sit!” and “Wait!” We can now open that door whenever we need to. Simon sees a hand on the doorknob and sits. He waits until we close the door again and give him a treat. We acknowledge his good decision with a reward. If we didn’t, there’d be no reason for him to keep doing it. Going downstairs is extremely rewarding for him. The alternative has to be as attractive.

Encouraging good decisions

A reward, whether it’s a yummy tidbit, tummy rubs, a game of tug, lets your dog know you’ve seen their good decision and like it. Over time, lots of good dog choices become just another part of the routine. Lately we’ve had a few dogs in classes who, for whatever reason, are frightened of going through doorways. For some, it’s particular doorways. For others, it’s all doorways. We don’t know why. We’ll never know why. Dogs never tell us their “why’s.”

All of these dogs are getting over their doorway phobia. In time, both the dogs and their people will be able to sail through any jamb without a second thought. Rewards won’t be required long term, but they are needed now. These people are asking their dogs to be brave and make a scary (to them) choice. The rewards given now build the equation: “When I go through the doorway, good things happen on the other side.” At some point it will become a non-issue. Then you can stop rewarding the dog.

Second nature

Many of the behaviors we teach our dogs become natural parts of life. You won’t always have to reward your dog for walking politely at your side, it will become a habit. In time, sitting when being introduced to guests will be the norm. Your dog’s default behavior will become going to their kitchen “Place!” when you’re cooking. Until those desirable things happen, the rewards have to keep coming.

Best dog training advice ever

Here’s the best dog training advice right off:

“Shut up!” That’s the best dog training advice we give people in our classes.

We wish there was a more polite way of putting it. But when we try, it’s ignored. We’ve tried:

Just wait!
Be patient!
Don’t say anything!
Let Fido think!

It just doesn’t penetrate until we say “Shut up!” We try to say it with a smile and a little chuckle. But it’s still startling. When we have to use it, we try to do it at the beginning of class. It gives us a chance to soften the blow and give it context. Because almost everybody talks too much when playing training games.

Our voices become garbled nonsense

Have you ever seen one of the Charlie Brown television specials? Remember how the adult voices were just garbled nonsense? For the most part, that’s how we sound to our dogs. They may love the sound of our voices, but the words are mostly gibberish. Dogs are capable of learning the meanings of dozens, if not hundreds of words. But they have to be distinct, taught clearly, and stand alone.

Knock three times. Say it once.

Once is all you need. We’ll use Puppy Push-ups, our class-opening exercise, as an example. Puppy Push-ups is a rapid sequence of position changes; Sit!, Stand!, and Down!, in random order. The faster you go, the more fun it is for both of you.

There is a learning period that takes some time. It’s not something most dogs are asked to do on a regular basis. They may be asked to “Sit!”, but that’s about all. How long it takes depends on how often you play, how fast you deliver the treats, and how willing you are to let your dog think.

If you stand with your dog in front of you, nothing in your hand, and say “Sit!,” how long will you wait before you repeat the word? If you’re like most, it happens within seconds. The command isn’t “sitsitsit!”

Say it once. If your dog doesn’t do it by a count of five, just look at their butt. Quietly.

Lessening the value

Every time you repeat a command, you’re telling your dog they don’t have to pay attention the first time. That another opportunity will come up, and they may not have to worry about that one either. There will always be another chance, so it doesn’t matter if they listen.

If your dog knows they have one chance to get it right, chances are much higher that they’ll be listening the first time. If your timing is prompt with rewards, they’ll comply even faster. Be ready with the reward, but be sure you’re rewarding, not luring.

Timing is everything

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. If their reward is almost simultaneous with performance, that performance improves exponentially. When you fumble around trying to get treats out of a bag or pouch, the dog has no reason to be crisp and precise. And if you repeat the same command multiple times, the dog will either learn to wait for the fifth repetition, or figure it’s not worth their effort.

Almost everyone is guilty of talking too much in training. We had to break the habit ourselves because talking is not allowed in obedience competitions. The rules actually spell out in detail when you’re allowed to talk to your dog and what you’re allowed to say. Frankly, the inability to constantly “cheerlead” the dogs makes for better training. You just have to wait for what you said to penetrate and send the signals from dog ears to dog brain to dog body.

Try it and see

The next time you play Puppy Push-ups, say a command once and wait. When you’re about to give up and repeat, stop yourself and wait another five seconds. That’s all. Wait a silent count of five. You’ll be surprised and delighted to see how much your dog already knows, if you’re patient and shut up. And that’s the best dog training advice ever.

Regrets, there’ve been a few

It’s fun having dogs who understand and know how to do stuff. If there’s something we want them to know, we figure out a game way to teach them. But over the years, there’s been some training, or lack thereof, that we regret. (Like eliminate on command.)

If you’re lucky enough to have an old dog, you know it’s not always easy. On those really bad-arthritis days, you feel like a tyrant making them get up and walk. But joints, like lots of things in life, are a “use it or lose it” proposition.

Tango is now 15 ½ years old. He’s little, so we have the option of carrying him around. But we don’t, except for stairs. He needs to move. We make him play “Put Your Toys Away” almost every day – at least he’s moving from the toy pile to the bin.

What we wish he knew: “eliminate on command”

The biggest regret is what we wish we’d taught him when he was young and spry. That’s to eliminate on command.

When Tango was young, he could “hold” for a dozen or more hours. He never messed in the house or had accidents. He also never had a predictable elimination schedule. It wasn’t a big deal then. If he had to go when he was outside, he did. If not, he didn’t.

Now, he can’t hold for a dozen hours. But he doesn’t like being out in the cold. And he doesn’t eliminate on command, because we never taught him. So he stands there, shivering (we are, too), and looking miserable. When we relent and bring him inside, he either paces around the house, or has an accident.

Think ahead

We’ve had dogs for so long that every floor is a dog-friendly surface. It’s not a big deal to clean up after Tango. But we wish we didn’t have to.

We’ve made sure to teach all the other dogs to eliminate on command. It’s easy to do – name it, praise it, reward it. Every time.

The other dogs aren’t young – 12. 10, and 6. And all of them know the commands “go poop” or “go pee.” A friend of ours used “hit it” as her dogs’ cue.

Think carefully about the name you give to your dog’s bathroom functions. And where you’re most likely to say it. If you’re in your own backyard, nobody’s around and it matters less. But if you’re in a more public place, will you be embarrassed to say “go poop?” If so, think of a lovely euphemism. Only you and your dog need to understand what you mean.

Language matters

A huge part of dog training is establishing communication between you. Dogs are capable of understanding dozens, if not hundreds, of words. Your job is teaching them the vocabulary they need.

You get to decide what every word means between you and your dog. Make your “potty” word something you’ll remember and use. And be sure it’s not a word your dog will hear all the time. That could get messy.

Try it without treats

One of our videos got a little traction this week on Tik Tok and we were fortunate to have quite a few people comment. Most were lovely, just hearts and admiration for Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog. It’s always nice when somebody else thinks your dog is as wonderful as you do. But there were also more than a few that implied his only motivation was the treats. And challenging us to “prove” he can do it without rewards. “Try it without treats” they said.

A different perspective

We know that Torque would play training games just for the fun of it. Would he be as eager? Probably not. And how would we communicate to him when he’s right? And when he’s not?

One of the first things we tell all our trainees is “Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards.” We say it early and often. Those rewards give your dog the immediate feedback: “Yes! That was good!” Withholding the rewards tells your dog “That’s not quite it. Try again.”

Many people seem to think that praise should be sufficient reward or motivation. Let’s put that in perspective.

For example: you have a great job in a great place with terrific colleagues. Everything about your job is great. Is a pat on the back from your boss sufficient reward? It’s really nice, but don’t you still want a paycheck?

Proving it to who?

Our response when challenged to create a video without using rewards was: Why should we?

The person came back with “To prove you can do it.”

To whom? And why? We’re not claiming that Torque is unique among dogs. Our goal is to encourage everyone to play training games with their own dogs. Because every single dog loves doing it. And everybody, dogs and people alike, has fun.

The challenge is seeing what your dog can do. Dogs have favorite games, just like people. Some dogs learn Puppy Push-ups in a week. Their 3-Step Pattern Walking takes no time at all. But they just can’t get the hang of “Place!” Or “Stay!”

The only opinion that matters

When you play training games and teach your dog only with reward-based training, there will be loads of people who “know a better, faster way.”

It’s absolutely true that punishment-based training is faster. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. If you’re okay with hurting your dog to achieve quick compliance, there are lots of trainers who teach “yank and crank” methods. But not in this space. And not in our classes.

No treats allowed

There are no treats or rewards allowed during dog sport competitions. You can’t bring anything into the competition ring but your dog. For those few minutes of judging, the dog gets no “reward” other than your smile.

If you’ve built sufficient value in the process, your dog will do what you ask. Just partnering with you, doing familiar, fun things will be enough. And, when your time in the competition ring is over, you can run over to your trial set-up and give your wonderful dog the jackpot they deserve.

Your house, your dog, your rules

When your parents (or in-laws) come over for the holidays, it may be the first chance you get to practice your grown-up parenting skills. And get a tiny bit of your own back for all those times you heard it as a teenager. “My house, my dog, my rules.” If you’re lucky, you get to practice when you have a dog and not a baby – those discussions are even more fraught.

It came up this week for a training class student of ours. Her mother was coming to visit from overseas. Her mother, who happens to be a fan of a famous dominance-based trainer. And who’s from a culture deeply ingrained with rules, discipline, and pretty much the opposite of reward-based training.

Before Mom arrived, our trainee wanted us to see what was happening with her dog. The pup (seven months old) had been boarded for a few days during Thanksgiving, and had come home with some atypical behaviors.

Not uncommon

Especially for puppies, boarding can be disruptive. The puppy’s schedule is discarded. Depending on the boarding situation, it may be anything from “run with a pack all day,” to stay-in-a-kennel except for yard time. None of the options is inherently bad. There are times when even the most devoted owner just can’t travel with their dog. Boarding is usually a safe option. Ideally, it’s also a comfortable choice and the dog will have some fun with either the staff or other dogs at the facility.

The best way to let your dog absorb the alternative is to practice. Like all things, dogs are adaptable beings if introduced to new things gradually. If your dog goes to a doggy day care that also does boarding, that’s a good place to start. The dog already has a good time during the day. Try to book a single night before a longer stay is necessary. Let the dog see the new routine. And pick them up early the next morning so the dog knows you’re always going to come back.

This dog didn’t get a practice boarding session. After a few days she came home rather insecure and unsettled. She was barking uncharacteristically at people coming into the house. Even at her own family and the family’s familiar baby-sitters.

Back to her comfort zone

So we became the dog’s “cookie people.” That’s a technique straight out of the “Reactive Dog Recipe.” Most reactive dogs are afraid. The objective is to teach them that new people are sources of delicious treats and completely non-threatening. Basically, we walked into the house and threw treats on the floor in front of the dog while we talked to the people. We didn’t look at the pup, we certainly didn’t talk to her. Just calmly had a conversation with her people. In this case, because the dog was just a bit unsettled, not really reactive, and we’re familiar to her, it took less than five minutes for her to calm down.

With Mom arriving two days later, the puppy’s owner now had a plan of action. Leave the pup in her crate until Mom came in, got comfy, and was ready to greet the dog. Remember – your house, your dog, your rules.

Until, of course, Mom came and refused to reward a dog that was barking at her. It looks that way to someone who doesn’t take into account the dog’s emotional state, fear. Barking is actually a low-grade response to fear – our own Tango’s fear-aggression came out in lunging, snarling, and trying to bite. Since Mom wouldn’t get on board, the owners did the treat-tossing. Not ideal, but Mom doesn’t get to decide – not her house, her dog, or her rules.

Familiarity breeds comfort

With this approach, the puppy getting treats every time she saw Mom, the dog was able to relax and accept the new person in just a couple of days. There was no interaction between them until the dog was ready to initiate it. Taken at the puppy’s pace, everything is working out great. They sent us a picture of the puppy relaxing on the couch with Mom today. Everything’s going to be fine. Until Dad arrives tomorrow and we start all over again.