positive reinforcement dog training Archives

Your house, your dog, your rules

When your parents (or in-laws) come over for the holidays, it may be the first chance you get to practice your grown-up parenting skills. And get a tiny bit of your own back for all those times you heard it as a teenager. “My house, my dog, my rules.” If you’re lucky, you get to practice when you have a dog and not a baby – those discussions are even more fraught.

It came up this week for a training class student of ours. Her mother was coming to visit from overseas. Her mother, who happens to be a fan of a famous dominance-based trainer. And who’s from a culture deeply ingrained with rules, discipline, and pretty much the opposite of reward-based training.

Before Mom arrived, our trainee wanted us to see what was happening with her dog. The pup (seven months old) had been boarded for a few days during Thanksgiving, and had come home with some atypical behaviors.

Not uncommon

Especially for puppies, boarding can be disruptive. The puppy’s schedule is discarded. Depending on the boarding situation, it may be anything from “run with a pack all day,” to stay-in-a-kennel except for yard time. None of the options is inherently bad. There are times when even the most devoted owner just can’t travel with their dog. Boarding is usually a safe option. Ideally, it’s also a comfortable choice and the dog will have some fun with either the staff or other dogs at the facility.

The best way to let your dog absorb the alternative is to practice. Like all things, dogs are adaptable beings if introduced to new things gradually. If your dog goes to a doggy day care that also does boarding, that’s a good place to start. The dog already has a good time during the day. Try to book a single night before a longer stay is necessary. Let the dog see the new routine. And pick them up early the next morning so the dog knows you’re always going to come back.

This dog didn’t get a practice boarding session. After a few days she came home rather insecure and unsettled. She was barking uncharacteristically at people coming into the house. Even at her own family and the family’s familiar baby-sitters.

Back to her comfort zone

So we became the dog’s “cookie people.” That’s a technique straight out of the “Reactive Dog Recipe.” Most reactive dogs are afraid. The objective is to teach them that new people are sources of delicious treats and completely non-threatening. Basically, we walked into the house and threw treats on the floor in front of the dog while we talked to the people. We didn’t look at the pup, we certainly didn’t talk to her. Just calmly had a conversation with her people. In this case, because the dog was just a bit unsettled, not really reactive, and we’re familiar to her, it took less than five minutes for her to calm down.

With Mom arriving two days later, the puppy’s owner now had a plan of action. Leave the pup in her crate until Mom came in, got comfy, and was ready to greet the dog. Remember – your house, your dog, your rules.

Until, of course, Mom came and refused to reward a dog that was barking at her. It looks that way to someone who doesn’t take into account the dog’s emotional state, fear. Barking is actually a low-grade response to fear – our own Tango’s fear-aggression came out in lunging, snarling, and trying to bite. Since Mom wouldn’t get on board, the owners did the treat-tossing. Not ideal, but Mom doesn’t get to decide – not her house, her dog, or her rules.

Familiarity breeds comfort

With this approach, the puppy getting treats every time she saw Mom, the dog was able to relax and accept the new person in just a couple of days. There was no interaction between them until the dog was ready to initiate it. Taken at the puppy’s pace, everything is working out great. They sent us a picture of the puppy relaxing on the couch with Mom today. Everything’s going to be fine. Until Dad arrives tomorrow and we start all over again.

Dog Training Game: Teach Your Pup to Pull

There are some dogs who are naturals at opening doors, drawers, or figuring out any obstacle that stands between them and their goal. If you have a dog that opens doors, drawers, hampers, garbage cans, you probably don’t need this game. The Teach Your Pup to Pull game is for the rest of us, whose dogs sit there and look at you with adorable puppy-dog eyes. And plead with you to open the goodie cabinet.

How it started

Hope had the notion that she’d like to create a little skit with Torque, using his various behaviors to tell a story. The idea came from watching the amazing winners of the AKC’s Virtual Trick Dog Championship. There’s nothing in those videos that’s beyond any of our dogs, it’s just a matter of putting the pieces together.

One of the behaviors needed for the scenario Hope imagined was for Torque to open a drawer to find a clue to the mystery. It seems a simple enough trick – after all, most dogs, including Torque, love to play tug.

It turned out not to be so simple after all. An essential component of “Tug!” Is someone on the other end providing resistance. Pulling a drawer open isn’t the same, from the dog’s point of view. We’d have to teach our pup to pull

How it’s going

The first step was choosing something to attach to the drawer that Torque could pull on. When you see videos of dogs opening stuff, generally speaking there’s a towel, rope, or piece of cloth for them to grab.

That was a no-go for Torque. He would pick up a rope, but not have any idea what to do with it once he was holding it. Part of the issue was the drawer set we were using (pictured). There really isn’t a handle that a dog can grab. The knob is too small to have a large rope around it.

To move on to the meatier parts of the behavior, Hope tied a familiar “put it away” object to the rope, a plastic spatula. Torque knew it from the other game.

The next obstacle was getting him to take the tied-on spatula away from the drawers. He was absolutely convinced that putting it on top of the drawer set was the answer we were looking for. It wasn’t, but we had to find a way to let him know that.

Using familiar game parts

To give him a goal away from the drawers, we used the bin we always use for “Put Your Stuff Away” games. We placed it well away from the drawers, placed the spatula well away from the drawers, and made sure we were facing the bin, rather than the drawers. Dogs pay attention to where you’re headed, so your direction matters.

Torque recognized the setup right away. He grabbed that spatula and headed for the bin. As soon as the drawer was clear of its housing, Hope clicked and rewarded, well short of the bin. That was letting Torque know he’d already done what she wanted.

As Torque becomes more sure of the behavior that’s wanted, we’ll be able to place the bin even farther away and eventually stop using it. The latest modification was to put treats in the drawer as soon as it was opened up. This lets Torque know he’d achieved the objective.

How it’s going

We’re making progress, even though we only play “Pull!” a couple times a month. Torque is starting to understand the word “Pull!”, although he still needs the bin for a target.

This game, like all training games beyond the essentials (come, stay, sit, etc.), is just for fun and a chance to build on the dog’s repertoire. It’s always fun to have something new to play with – whether it’s a new toy or a new training game. Keeping many different skills in the rotation ensures that neither you nor your dog will get tired of playing training games together.

Dog Training Isn’t Always the Answer

We got a rather urgent email from a long-time training student this week. Her dog had bitten a groomer at the doggy day care facility and she was rather frantically trying to deal with her dog’s sudden aggression. We had to tell her that dog training isn’t always the answer.

What’s Really Happening

Of course we called her right away to get the story. In addition to the bite, the dog had also growled and almost-snapped at her husband. The husband, who had adopted the dog from a shelter five months ago, was ready to return the dog immediately. The wife was distraught, upset both by the dog’s behavior and the thought of giving him up.

Neither of the couple is an experienced dog owner, so neither had a good idea of what was going on.

With the information the woman provided, our advice was to carefully consider the option of returning the dog to the shelter. Generally speaking, dogs adopted from shelters need at least three months before they feel comfortable in a new home and start showing their true personalities. If this dog’s nature was actually reactive, it wouldn’t be a good fit with this family. They already have a beautifully-trained Rottweiler and are planning for children in the next few years.

Getting More Complicated

The woman had already contacted the shelter about the bite. They got back to her saying that a dog with a bite history would automatically be euthanized. If they returned the dog, it was a death sentence. The shelter’s only suggestion was an introduction to another trainer to assess the dog. The options seemed to be getting narrower.

At this point, with the information we had, the choices were all bad. So we contacted the owner of the day care where the incident happened. We’re friends with the owner, and trust her opinion as a savvy dog person.

The Story Gets Clearer

It turns out that the dog has always been a happy, playful guy who’s never given them cause for concern. About a month ago, he was sidelined by illness. Kennel cough developed into pneumonia. He hasn’t been feeling great for a while now.

It was his first time back at day care, and the owners opted for a bit of a spa day – bath and nail trim. Like many dogs, this one didn’t much care for the ramp up to the tub, so the groomer was picking him up. When she touched his legs he reacted with the bite.

Talking to the dog’s owner, the incident with her husband also happened when he touched the dog’s leg.

Light Bulb Moment

The day care owner and we immediately recognized that the dog was showing symptoms of pain. Whenever a dog reacts atypically to normal things, the first thought should be “something’s going on there.”

The dog doesn’t need training for this. Dog training isn’t always the answer. He needs to see a veterinarian to figure out what’s happening that’s causing him to react atypically.

We called the owner back with this news. We also advised her to give the vet’s office a “heads up” that the dog would probably need to be muzzled for the examination. All dogs are capable of lashing out when they’re in pain. And all dogs should be muzzle-trained, just in case. Of course training to put the muzzle on your dog should be approached the same way as all other training – in fast, fun, game-based sessions.

She was relieved to hear that her dog probably hadn’t morphed into Cujo overnight. She also asked something that emphasized their inexperience with dogs. “Don’t dogs show signs when they’re in pain?”

No, they don’t. Dogs typically don’t show any signs of weakness or pain until it’s far advanced. Experienced dog owners know to consult medical professionals when their dogs seem “off.” The first, subtle signs of something wrong are clues only the dog’s owner will see. Combining these owners’ inexperience and the dog’s newness in the household, it was easy to miss.

We’re waiting to hear what the veterinarian discovers. But the dog’s future looks better today than it did.

Every Stop Needs a Go

A “Stay!” Is your dog’s stop sign. Whatever position they’re in. Wherever they are. The release word you choose is the dog’s signal to move. Every stop needs a go.

Let’s say you’re driving around the city in fairly heavy traffic. You come to an intersection and the light turns red as you approach. Theoretically, you passed your driver’s license test, so you know you have to stop. And you also know you’re not going anywhere until the light turns green. Until you get your release signal.

Picture what would happen if nobody knew those signals. If every car just went on its merry way whenever the driver felt like it. The traffic wouldn’t be heavy. It would be chaotic.

Dog traffic signals

Teaching your dog the “Stay!” won’t work until you pair it with a release word. If dogs are allowed to self-release from a stay, then “Stay!” means nothing.

You know you want your dog to stay while you’re accepting a delivery and the door’s open. You want them to stay put until the door is safely shut again. But your dog doesn’t know that. They don’t understand “Stay until I close the door.” Dogs can understand “Stay until you hear your release word.” Your “Place” game will help with this, too.

Motion triggers

Most dogs will move when you move. They try to keep you in sight. When our students are teaching their dogs “Stay!” most pair a step and/or arm motion when giving their release word. Dogs are really good at absorbing the whole picture. If you stand stock still while your dog is holding a “Stay!” and move when you release them, that’s what they learn. They stay when you stay, they move when you move.

That’s why you have to disconnect your motion from both the “Stay!” and “Free!” commands. You have to be able to move when your dog is staying. And you must not move when releasing your dog from a “Stay!”

Make it easy for your dog

The best way to confuse your dog is being okay with them getting it wrong. If they move before you release them, they don’t understand either stop or go. Trying to fix something just confuses them even more. If they break the “Stay!” just move to a new position and start again.

Dogs trained with positive reinforcement know there are no horrible consequences for getting stuff wrong. They’re not afraid to try again. And most dogs really want to get it right, so they work with you. Because they also know there’s a celebration jackpot when they get it right. Every stop needs a go. Make it easy for your dog to get that jackpot.

Watch your body language when dog training

Most people in dog training classes don’t realize how carefully dogs watch your body language. They notice everything. Without realizing it, you could be sending your dog a message you don’t intend.

The one we see most often is in heeling exercises. Ideally, your dog’s shoulder should be about even with your left leg. Your dog’s job is to maintain that position whenever you’re heeling.

Many dogs lag a bit behind their people, especially when performing turns or circles with the dog on the outside of the curve.

It’s perfectly natural. The dog has a longer path than yours when they’re on the outside. But it’s not what you want. Your dog should adjust their pace to maintain proper heel position.

But when the dog starts to lag, the person almost always glances back, over their shoulder, to see where the dog is. Their left shoulder moves back, and the dog notices that and lags even more.

Fix it

The cure for this is easy. Keep your shoulders straight and the dog will hustle to get up into the correct position. But remembering to do that takes some effort. That’s one of the reasons we encourage all our students to take video of their practice. Pay careful attention to the message your posture is communicating.

Another common body language cue also tells the dog “back up.” You can demonstrate this for yourself with any dog – even one who’s never done any obedient thing in their life. Call your dog to you. If they come nice and close in front of you, lean forward, just a little bit. Chances are they’ll back up immediately. That’s how sensitive your dog is to your body language. Even a slight lean is enough to make many dogs move.

Stay woes

Dogs’ responsiveness to our physical cues has caused many problems for people teaching their dogs to stay. At first, while the dog is learning, any motion on your part is enough to ruin your dog’s stay. Dogs have to be actively taught to ignore our motion when asked.

When you start to teach your dog “Stay!,” don’t move. Just the hand rewarding the dog should be your only motion. Any twitch, glance, or lean can cue an untrained dog to move. Introduce motion gradually, after your dog has some inkling of what stay is about. If your dog is in front of you, just lean to one side or the other. When they can “Stay!” through your lean, take a baby step to either side. Then a real step. It really is a step-by-step process to be able to walk around your dog.

Notice your motion

Smart dog owners will be able to take advantage of their dog’s body language perception. We use very subtle cues to let our dogs know their positioning isn’t quite right. If the dog is coming to “Heel!” and stops a bit too far back, a little shoulder twitch tells them to move up. A weight-shift from one side to the other corrects their course on a Recall.

For many of the training games, your first cue to your dog is looking at the object, whether it’s a dog bed for “Place!” or your own hand for “Touch!” Your attention to that thing will draw your dog’s. Another easy experiment: Stare at the ceiling. It won’t take long before your dog is looking up, too!

Dog Training’s Hardest Part

Waiting is dog training’s hardest part.

It’s also the most important part. If you can’t resist temptation and tell your dog what to do, the dog will never figure it out on their own. You’ll spend the dog’s entire life telling them.

That gets old after a while. You start to think to yourself “Why doesn’t my dog know this by now? We’ve been doing it the same way for years!” It’s because you never gave your dog the gift of letting them think it through.

Perfect example

Teaching dogs the “Place!” Game is where we see it most often in our classes. No question, it’s hard to just stand there, staring at a mat. Sometimes the dog doesn’t even look at it during class. The people get discouraged and say “Can’t I just tell him?” “Can I point to it?”

No. No you can’t. Because the whole point of the game is for the dog to figure out that their action triggers the jackpot. When they choose to look at the mat, sniff the mat, step on the mat, sit on the mat, lie down on the mat, the treats rain down.

Once they do figure it out for themselves, your life gets easier. When you need the dog out of the way for any reason, whether it’s the pizza delivery guy at the door, or Grandpa halt-stepping through the room, your dog will understand what to do when you say “Place!”

So just wait. Stare at the darn mat for the whole training session. The dog may not get it today. But at some point, they’ll wonder what’s so fascinating about that thing. They’ll start interacting with it. And once the treats start falling from above, the lesson will be well on its way.

Opposite side of the coin

It’s difficult to wait for the dog to do something. It’s just as hard to exercise patience for them to stop doing something. But you can’t teach a dog “don’t.” You can reward the behavior you want.

Let’s use jumping on people as our example. Most people just grab their dog’s collar and haul them away, apologizing to the jumpee all the while. They’ve stopped the current problem, but done nothing to teach the dog what to do.

Instead, if you have a cooperative jumpee, set up the situation. While the dog is being rude and trying to get in the person’s face, what if everybody ignored the behavior and stared at the ceiling. Then, the instant the dog has all four paws on the ground, the dog gets rewarded and lots of attention. Just a few repetitions and most dogs catch on. If the dog gets even more treats and pets for sitting, they’ll probably choose to sit.

Thinking creatures

Think about it this way. If you think your dog is smart, they probably are. They’re also probably lazy. Which means they’ll happily foist off the chore of thinking if you let them. Thinking requires effort. Why should they do the work when you’re right there to do it for them?

The irony here is that once dogs do learn to think and make good choices, it snowballs. Dogs love solving puzzles, playing training games, and figuring stuff out. That first time you just wait them out will be rewarded many times over through your years together.

Dog training’s hardest part, like many things in life, is worth the payout. You can continue to do things the easy way and always tell your dog what to do. But in the long run, it’s easier on both of you if your dog actually knows what to do.

Foundation dog games #2: Place!

The dog training game“Place!” is the game that gives your dog something to do when the doorbell rings, when elderly Aunt Gertie is on the move with her walker, even when you’re busy chopping vegetables at the table.

“Place!” isn’t the “go to your room!” order that let you know you were in trouble as a kid. Your dog’s designated place is a good thing. It’s a comfort zone where your dog is happy and gets rewarded for hanging out.

Call it what you want

As with anything you train your dog to do, you can call it whatever you want. Some people choose “Mat!” or “Bed!” You should call it whatever works for you and your dog. Dogs don’t know words until you teach them. As Humpty Dumpty said: ““When I use a word, it means just what I choose it to mean — neither more nor less.”

It helps if the word is short and easy to say, but you be you. It’s your dog and you can teach them whatever you want. We know someone who trained their dog to understand words in Klingon. It’s a bit guttural for us, but works for her.

Set up

In time, your dog will learn that they can have multiple mats designated as “Place!” To teach the word, choose a dog bed, mat, towel, bath mat, or whatever and move it to the center of a clear area. For this initial teaching phase, choose a quiet, small spot without distractions. Your dog isn’t going to know what’s going on, so they may get a little frustrated and try to check out on you.

Until dogs learn that it’s okay to experiment, many are afraid of getting things “wrong.” To avoid it, they may choose not to play. It takes a bit to overcome their reluctance. The dog isn’t “refusing” or “acting out” if they don’t rush in to play with you. They’re confused, unused to making choices, and worried they’ll choose the wrong thing.

This is a game that everyone in the family can play with the dog at the same time. While you don’t want to overwhelm the dog, you do want everyone to be part of training games.

Possess your soul in patience

Everyone should have a few treats. Then you just all stand around the “Place!” and look at it. When the dog interacts with the “Place!” in any way – looks at it, sniffs it, paws at it – one person drop a treat on the mat and say “Good Place!” As long as the dog stays interested in the Place, toss a treat onto it every few seconds, repeating “Good Place!”

Be sure nobody is handing the dog a treat. In order to make the “Place!” valuable to the dog, the treats have to be associated with the mat. If your dog always finds treats there, it’s a great place to be.

After rewarding the dog a few times for the same interaction with the “Place!” it’s time to expect more. Say your dog looked at the mat. When they continue the same behavior (looking), tell them they’re good, encourage them, and ask for more. “That’s good!” “What else can you do?”

Do NOT tell them to get in the bed or point at it. The entire exercise is based on the dog deciding for themselves that it’s a wonderful, chosen “Place!” that they love. If you always decide for your dog, you’ll always have to. Growing their understanding is how they learn to make good decisions. Let them.

Take the dog training game place at your dog’s pace

The first time you play the dog training game “Place!” you may not get anywhere. That’s okay. It’s why every dog training game should be less than five minutes. You’ll try again another time. Your dog also has to learn to trust the process. You’ll get there. The steps, depending on the dog, are: look, touch, one paw, two paws, three paws, four paws, sit, and/or down on the place.

Once your dog gets it and goes dashing to sit or lie down on their “Place!” the other side of the coin is getting them off of the “Place!” Remember, as long as they’re interacting with the mat, they get treats tossed on the “Place!,” maintaining its value. When it’s time for the dog to move off, toss a treat off to the side and release the dog to “Find it!” or “Search!” or “Go!”

Dashing all the way

You know your dog is on target with the game if they dash over to get the treat and dash back to their “Place!” That’s when you start introducing new parts to the game. You can vary the “Place!” teaching your dog that any mat or bed can be “Place!” You can move the “Place!” around the house so your dog knows it’s the same game wherever you are.

For some people the ultimate goal of the dog training game “Place!” is having the doorbell be a cue for your dog to go “Place!” Pair the sound of your doorbell with the word “Place!” once your dog understands the word. If you want “Place!” to be your dog’s doorbell behavior, it will take some time and patience, but you and your dog can do it.

Step over your dog

Step over your dog? Why? Dogs are a trip hazard. We know, because our cousin shattered her knee cap tripping over her German Shepherd Dog. It was an accident, and those happen to everybody. What made this particular situation worse was that, as she was stepping over the dog on the way, the dog got up. She was actually lucky. It was her dog’s habit to sleep in the hall at the top of the stairway. Our cousin was lucky to break her knee and not her noggin.

Are you wondering what this has to do with dog training? If the dog had been trained to accept being stepped over, brushed by, or even pushed against, she wouldn’t have gotten up and our cousin may not have fallen.

If you’ve played in either Obedience or Rally, your dog is probably accustomed to you walking around them. But if you’ve never taught your dog to let you walk all the way around them, the time has come.

Why do I need that?

Our beginner class students always give us the “Why?” puzzled face when we start teaching “Walk Around Your Dog.” No one thinks they’ll need it. And everyone is pretty surprised when their dog doesn’t let them do it. It’s no big deal to you, so you’ve probably never paid much attention to what your dog does when you walk around them. Almost one hundred percent of the time, dogs will either swivel on their butts to watch you, or stand to keep their face pointed in your direction. Dogs like to know where you are and what you’re doing. All the time.

The scenario we have students imagine is this: You’re making a pasta dinner. Your cooktop is on the opposite side of the kitchen from your sink. The pasta’s done and ready to be drained. And your dog is sitting in the absolute geographic center of the kitchen. If they don’t move, you’ll be okay, there’s plenty of room to walk around them. Unless, of course, they get up and move into the path you were planning to take. If you’re lucky, no boiling water sloshes on anyone. We tend not to be lucky. So we train our dogs to stay put. You may not ever need to step over your dog, but if you do, it’s a handy thing to have trained.

Brush against them

Just as we tend not to be terrifically lucky, we’re also not the most graceful people on the planet. Every so often we move awkwardly, or carry something unwieldy, so we might brush up against our dogs as we pass by them. They need to accept this as normal and not freak out, jump up, and get in the way when it happens.

Next time you practice your “Stay!” with your dog, brush your foot against them when you’re moving. Don’t kick your dog, but let your foot make a bit of contact with your dog’s side, or paw, or butt as you move around. If your dog stays put, reward and do it again. But if they don’t, set it up again and reduce the stress and surprise of the contact. If you brushed the dog’s hind foot, try the front instead so they can clearly see there was nothing to worry about. If you contacted the dog’s hind end, make it a shoulder instead.

Just try it a couple of times, reward the dog and be done for that session.They’ll get used to the incidental touches. Just do it now before you ever actually need it. Gradually increase the pressure of the contact as well as practicing actually stepping over them. Last week we talked about “Middling,” and another thing to practice is to let the side of one foot and then both touch your dog when he’s in the middle.

Everywhere, every position

If your dog aces “Walk Around Your Dog” when lying down, move on to the “Sit!” and the “Stand!” As always, do it in different places so your dog truly learns what it means. And every once in a while actually step over your dog.

It may seem like a little thing. And it is. Until you’re heading to the bathroom at 2 a.m. and your dog is lying in your path. In this case an ounce of prevention would have prevented a very painful pound of cure.

Dog’s trust is easily broken

Your dog relies on you to be a dependable partner. If you always deliver what you promise, so will your dog. But be careful what you promise. A dog’s trust is fragile. If you don’t follow through, or if you try to deceive your dog, it’s over.

According to our TikTok audience, Torque (Hope’s French Bulldog) must be AI (artificial intelligence) rather than a real dog. Because Frenchies don’t ever listen, let alone obey.

As Colonel Sherman T. Potter (M*A*S*H) would have said, “horse hockey!”

Torque listens, obeys, and looks like a genius because Hope never lies to him. Ever. That’s the entire secret of getting your dog to be a canine Einstein. Be absolutely reliable.

What do you mean?

We just saw a story about a canine study testing whether dogs could tell if a person was lying, or a bad person. In the first part, the dog was told to go to a container full of treats. All of the dogs did it. For the second part, the dogs were re-sent to the container which was empty. Again, they all went. In the third part, none of the dogs went to the container. The dogs’ trust had been broken.

We’ve all heard the old saying “Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.” This is a true-to-life example that dogs are not fools. You can certainly fool them once. But that’s it. They’ll never fall for the same lie twice.

Take a good look in the mirror

Let’s face it. Dogs are easy to fool. And their looks of puzzlement are really adorable when you pretend to throw the ball and there’s no ball. But every time you trick your dog, you’re eroding their trust in your relationship. They may fall for the fake toss a couple of times. You’re the one who will pay for it in the end when your dog stops being happy to play with you.

Some dogs have a sense of humor and can tolerate being teased. Others don’t understand and it can even upset them. Torque is a good-natured dog who will go along with any silly thing Hope dreams up for him.He’ll give it his best try. And he’ll try repeatedly. He knows that when he gets it right he’ll be generously rewarded.

When Hope has no treats with her, she shows her empty hands to her dog so he knows. If she has really primo treats, she lets him sniff to be sure he knows what’s available. And when he gets it right, he gets that primo treat.

Build a solid foundation

If you like teasing your dog, or playing pranks on them, that’s going to define your relationship. Your dog is still going to love you. They’ll forgive you. They may even join in the humor of the joke. But your dog is never going to hang on every word you say, or do what you ask them to do when you ask them to do it. Because once too often you’ve called your dog for “Cookies!” and then shoved them in the bathtub.

If you truly want your dog to listen, you have to be worth listening to. If you call your dog’s name and they ignore you, it’s probably because there’s no reason to listen. Next time you complain that your dog doesn’t pay any attention to you, try seeing it from their point of view. What’s the difference, for your dog, between paying attention and not? It’s up to you to define it.

How to stop your dog counter surfing

When cute little puppies grow tall enough, or clever enough, they discover the joys of counter surfing. Since dogs reliably choose to do what’s most rewarding for them, if they find anything on that counter, they’ll do it again. And again. As long as there are treasures to find, the dog will keep finding them. We imagine there are quite a few family holiday stories that feature a naughty dog stealing some of the featured feast off the table or counter. It may be funny and fondly remembered over the years. But it’s not fun at the time. Not to mention panic-inducing, if it was the centerpiece turkey that’s gone down the dog. Stop your dog counter surfing forever.

Nip it in the bud

Ideally there will be absolutely nothing on the counter the dog finds attractive. If they try counter surfing and get nothing, they have no reason to try again.

Don’t assume that because your dog can’t reach the counter they can’t steal stuff from it. The memory of Hope’s French Bulldog Teddy up on the kitchen counter is burned into our memories. He stood 12 inches tall. The standard counter height is 36 inches. Did he jump? No. He got onto the kitchen chair. Climbed from there onto the table, and then across to the counter. He only did it once (that we know of), but it’s legendary in the family.

Realistically, few of us can completely clear counters, table tops, and other flat, reachable surfaces. Even in the throes of training a new dog, you still have to live your life. Until your dog gets the message, if you can’t completely contain the stuff, contain the dog.

If the counter-surfing canine only has access to the attractive surfaces when you’re there, you can use every interaction as a training opportunity.

Send the message

To counter counter-surfing, set up the scenario. Have a dog bed nearby. Stand at your regular cooking position and start cutting up a carrot. Or celery. Something your dog likes and is allowed to have. If your dog intrudes by sticking their nose under your arm, putting their front paws on the counter, or trying to get at the carrot, stop what you’re doing and cover up the “work” with your arms and upper body. If you have to lie on it, do so. Don’t say anything to the dog. Just stare at the dog bed.

If you tell your dog “Off!” or “No!” or even “Uh-oh” you’re still telling them what to do. The objective is to have the dog make good decisions even if you’re not there to tell them. If you always tell your dog what to do, you’ll always have to. Over the course of your dog’s lifetime, that would be exhausting.

If you put in the effort to teach them good decision-making now, over the course of years you’ll both be much happier.

Stand firm

At first, with the carrot and counter covered, your dog won’t understand what’s going on. They may paw at you, try to burrow under your arm, or even start whining. This is the part where you must be patient. Waiting is the absolute hardest part of dog training. Don’t say anything. Don’t move. Just stare at the dog bed.

As soon as your dog has all four feet on the floor, or looks at the bed, toss a piece of carrot into the bed. As long as the dog is behaving, keep tossing pieces of carrot in the bed. Just by your actions, you’re teaching the dog that their place in that bed is highly rewarding.

If they get the carrot piece and then come bounding back to jump some more, cover up and repeat. Single-minded dogs may take a few sessions to get the idea. But they will get it.

Stop your dog counter surfing forever

Eventually, if you’re patient and consistent, you’ll have a terrific companion for your kitchen endeavors. You can even look forward to spending some companionable time together. If you want to give your dog a chew toy on the bed while you’re preparing food, by all means go ahead.

Throughout your dog’s life, even when they know the house rules, make a point of rewarding them for good decision-making. If you see your dog glance at the counter and then walk away, reward it. That’s a sure sign that the training has worked and your dog really does know better.