fun dog training Archives - Page 3 of 6

Spin! Dog Training Game

The “Spin!” Dog Training Game is not only fun, but has some practical uses, too. There are a bunch of variations for the spin behavior; in place, around objects, up on hind feet (that’s “Dance!”).

“Spin!” is one of the behaviors that’s easiest to teach by luring your dog. It’s pretty simple. Show your dog you have a treat by holding it close to your dog’s nose. Then move your hand back towards your dog’s shoulder. They should naturally turn their heads to follow your hand. Reward as your dog starts turning toward their own shoulder. Each time, take the treat a little farther back along your dog’s side as he/she catches on.

Common pitfalls

Watching our dog training students playing “Spin!” with their dogs, we noticed most people allow their dogs’ motion to create distance between them and their dogs. The dog doesn’t understand what you’re up to, so they move away to get a better look. The result is that you can no longer reach all the way around your dog, and everyone winds up confused.

This exercise is very close work. Your dog should be right with you, and, when your dog spins, should end up in exactly the same place they started. It’s an in-place movement.

You may also run up against your dog having a preference turning to one side and not the other. Most dogs, like most people, are either right- or left-handed. Unlike people, most dogs are lefties. It doesn’t really matter, except that you’ll probably need to practice the “Spin!” more on the dog’s non-dominant side. Don’t let your dog become a one-way spinner! It’s tempting to let the “easy” side prevail, but your dog will build lop-sided muscles.

Benefits of “Spin!”

Aside from being an adorable party trick, the “Spin!” can be useful, too. The first variation, teaching your dog to spin around an object, works when you’re out walking and your dog goes around the wrong side of a tree. Just asking him/her to “Spin!” back to you takes care of the problem, without any leash tangles.

To teach your dog to “Spin!” around something, try using a chair. Stand by the chair with your dog at your side. Again, show your dog you have a treat and guide him/her around the object, rewarding when they reach your other side. Take note of the motion you make with your hand, like a giant stirring move. This is an ideal hand signal to use for “Spin!” – it indicates what, as well as which direction.

Practice the “Spin!” Dog Training Game in both directions, in place as well as around an object. Always use the hand closest to the dog to reward. For the “Spin!” around an object, when your dog starts to get the idea, step away from the chair so the dog can make a complete circle.

Turn it into a “Dance!”

It doesn’t take long for most dogs to learn “Spin!” and to love it. When your dog is spinning like a top when you wave your hand in a circular motion (stirring), it’s time to take it up high, for a “Dance!” Having your dog twirl around on their hind feet is cute as heck. It’s also a good indicator of their leg and core strength.

To teach “Dance!” just hold the treat up higher than for the Spin! Dog Training Game. Keep it at a level where your dog has to reach up to get it – high enough so their front paws have to leave the ground. If your dog can’t sustain it at first, that’s okay. But be sure to reward while your dog is reaching, ideally with front paws above the ground. Remember, dogs learn from the timing and placement of rewards. If you want your dog up, keep the reward up.

Get them in shape

If your dog isn’t able to “Dance!” quite yet, check out the exercises for core strength and balance. And always try to train both sides. Start with your dog’s non-dominant side, so the training and exercises are “easier” when your dog’s a little tired.

Even the exercises we advocate only take a couple minutes at a time. And they should always be fun games your dogs play with you – not chores to be accomplished. Those of us who hate working out (both of us!) keep it fun for our dogs. If you make it fun, your dog will believe it is.

Manage your dog’s fear of fireworks

You can train your dog to ignore fireworks. But it’s a process that takes time. If you’re here to get help for July 4, 2023, call your veterinarian instead. Start the training, but less than a month isn’t enough time to make the behavior secure. And call now, not on July 3. Some medications need to build up in the dog’s system. In other words, there are no fast and easy fixes for fear of fireworks.

What to do now

For this year, just talk to your vet about your dog’s intense fear of fireworks and pick up whatever prescriptions, supplements, or herbals they recommend. Then start making your plans for the nights the fireworks are worst in your area. The last couple of years have been particularly noisy – starting at around Memorial Day and continuing through July 5. We’re very lucky that none of the current crew cares about the noise. We had a dog with tremendous fireworks and thunder anxiety, so we empathize completely with those who do. It’s not easy when someone you love is terrified. There’s no way to explain to them that the fireworks (or thunder) can’t and won’t hurt them.

What you can do is make plans to occupy your dog (and yourself) with fun and noisy things. With the windows covered, and loud distractions happening inside your home, the impact is lessened. Oddly, most dogs are perfectly fine watching loud fireworks on TV. If you want to watch the holiday coverage, it’s not necessarily a no-no, even if your dog is frightened.

Don’t let them hide alone

Some dogs are so terrified of fireworks that they seek out small, enclosed places. We’ve heard many stories of dogs hiding in bathtubs during fireworks displays or thunderstorms. Dogs tend to like small, enclosed spaces. Especially when they’re feeling insecure.

One of the benefits of becoming your dog’s training partner is establishing yourself as a safe space for your dog. While it may be too late to alleviate your dog’s fear of fireworks and change your their reaction for this year, you can make a difference by staying with them. And make sure they’re securely attached to you whenever you take them outside that day. The 4th of July is the number one day of dogs getting lost. Shelters report that July 5 is always their busiest day. If a firework blast goes off suddenly, even the best-trained dog may take off running. Don’t take a chance. Hook them up for the holiday.

If there are scheduled fireworks displays where you are, time your outings for before and after the shows. Most start after sundown, so time your longest walk for the daylight hours. You can’t do anything about individuals shooting off fireworks, but you can avoid the planned show times.

Make it loud inside

Do you like adventure movies? Pick a line-up of your favorite, noisy movies and play them, loudly, all day (or videos of football games!). Close the blinds. Make some popcorn. And teach your dog to catch the popcorn. You probably shouldn’t play any training games that matter – your dog will probably be distracted. But some aromatic and delicious popcorn (no butter or salt!) may be worth paying attention.

Close the blinds or drapes. Make the inside bright, turn on every light around. It’s easier for both dogs and people to be frightened in the dark. If you have an inside room or basement, try to make that your hang-out space during the loudest hours.

Plan ahead for next year

You can start training your dog to ignore the booming of fireworks. Find a recording of a fireworks show and play it, softly, while you’re playing training games with your dog. As your dog learns to ignore it and have fun with you, you can gradually turn up the volume for each 2-Minute session. This is another example of “Real World Dog Training.” If your dog loves the popcorn-catching game, save it for fireworks. Your dog will come to associate something they love with fireworks, instead of being terrified.

Your dog may never be able to calmly go with you to the local park for the Fourth of July fireworks show. That’s okay – it’s not the goal. Success is your dog acting like it’s just another day playing with you, instead of shivering under the bed.

Wait for your dog

Are you a good enough dog trainer to wait for your dog? Do you give them the time they need to process and take action?

Everybody wants their dog to get things right. Especially when they’re out in public. It’s understandable. We all want the world to know how wonderful our dogs are. And they are. If they’re allowed the time they need.

We’ve said before that the hardest part of dog training is doing nothing. Just waiting for your dog can be agonizing. Whether it’s remembering something they should do, or trying something new, dogs need time to think, process, and react.

Building patience

Just this week in Hope’s Obedience competition class, one of the dog/handler teams had a moment. Jessie, a gorgeous Bouvier des Flandres, and his dad were doing the Recall. (Handler leaves dog in a sit/stay, walks across the room, turns and faces dog, calls dog, dog runs and sits in front of handler.) David called Jessie, who bounded across the room (good boy!). And stood in front of David. Just stood. (Image from akc.org.)

Hope told David to wait. To look at Jessie’s butt. And wait. Don’t say anything, don’t do anything, don’t move. Just wait.

David and Jessie have been in class long enough that Jessie knows what he’s supposed to do. But Jessie’s young, and a bit silly and pushy. He tests what he can get away with. And, like every single person on the planet, David wanted to “help” his dog get it right. We could all see him itching to say “Sit!”

But he didn’t say it. And, after what seemed like half an hour to everybody, but was probably less than a minute, Jessie sat. David celebrated with his dog and everybody else cheered. We’re not sure if anyone else was holding their breath, waiting for Jessie, but we certainly were.

No matter how long you’ve been training dogs, no matter how well you know the dog, they’re still dogs. There can always be a surprise factor, a random distraction, a momentary brain glitch.

How do you know how long?

One of the questions people have is “How long should I wait?” The simple answer is “as long as your dog is still trying.” If your dog is still engaged, still happy to be playing the training game with you, keep waiting. But if your 2-Minute timer buzzes, keep waiting if you have some extra time. As long as your dog is paying attention, interested in the game, and not quitting on you – give them all the time they need. Wait for your dog.

Some of the very best training is achieved by letting the dog puzzle it through. We can all think of a situation where we figured out how to do something, instead of being told. And just by figuring it out ourselves, we knew it forever. Thinking through a problem cements the solution in your memory.

Did it work?

In competition class, everyone takes turns doing the Recall. We usually practice it two or three times. And it would be lovely if we could report that Jessie’s second turn this week had a triumphant, instantaneous “Sit!” That didn’t happen. Same thing – he ran over and stood in front of David. But this time, there was a difference in Jessie’s attitude. It was almost like he was asking David if he really meant it. David stood quiet and let Jessie think it through. Jessie sat.

Every dog is unique

Whether you have a houseful of dogs, or only one at a time, you know that every dog is unique. Even if they’re all the same breed. Even if they’re closely related. Just like you and your siblings are distinct and different individuals, so are dogs.

Most people, especially dog people, know this. But almost every one of us disregards it, to some extent, in training our dogs. Whatever annoying things your last dog did, you’ve trained this one not to.

Everyone does some overcompensating for past mistakes. We’ve done it, too. For example, when Hope’s French Bulldog Teddy was a puppy, she carried him around all the time. When he grew up, weighed 26 pounds, and wanted to be carried around all the time, Hope realized the error of her ways..

So when Torque came along, she was conscientious about having him walk on his own four feet. It worked too well. Picking Torque up scares him, and he hates being carried around.

Everybody does it

We’ve seen other examples among our beginner obedience students. One of the dogs in the last session was a Standard Poodle, not even two years old. This dog is a frequent victim of my-other-dog-itis. Their other dog (whom we’ve never met), sounds like a smart, problem-solving, mischief-making large-and-in-charge dog. And because of their experience with their first dog, the Poodle basically wasn’t allowed to make his own decisions about anything, ever.

At first, the Poodle’s lack of interest or engagement in any training games had us puzzled. Poodles, especially Standards, are among the brightest dog breeds. They’re intelligent and trainable dogs with a sense of humor and a touch of goofiness. Most Poodles would be right in there, playing training games and willing to keep playing just about forever.

Then we kept hearing about this family’s other dog; how smart she is, what a troublemaker she is, and how she was “alpha” in the household. We haven’t talked much about the “alpha” dog thing – because it’s nonsense and we wish it would go away. But there are still people subscribing to that disproved theory.

And the light bulb turned on. This dog wasn’t engaging in training games because he never had the chance to experiment, try things, make mistakes, get over them, and keep playing.

Let them learn

The Poodle people didn’t want a repetition of their older dog. So they tightly controlled every aspect of this dog’s life. He didn’t know how to make good decisions, because he’d never had to make any decisions at all. He didn’t know “trying” was an option.

Fortunately, his people extended themselves to embrace training games. By the end of the session, this dog started to think for himself and started to show his real potential. He’s turning into the Poodle he could be. Allowing your dog the time it takes, being patient, consistent, and trusting in the process isn’t something every dog person can do.

A friend of ours, who is a top-tier Obedience competitor, freely admits she doesn’t have the patience to do the hardest thing in dog training – waiting. Doing nothing while the dog figures things out. And now that she has a young dog who lacks confidence, it’s a big problem.

Build them up

A dog who plays training games is a more confident dog. That dog has been rewarded for making good decisions. Has earned praise for thinking. That dog knows how to figure things out. That dog also trusts their person to give them feedback when they choose wisely. And knows their person won’t let anything bad happen to them.

As your dog’s trainer, it’s up to you to foster your dog’s confidence. It’s absolutely natural to try to avoid mistakes you may have made with past dogs. And you should, by all means, try to make all new mistakes with a different dog. Always keeping in mind that every dog is unique.

Never too late to socialize your dog

Lots of puppies adopted in the last couple of years have been deprived. They’re not accustomed to real life in the real world. There wasn’t a way to properly socialize your dog. There just weren’t the places to go, classes to take, people to see, that other dogs got to experience. The good news is that it’s never too late. Every healthy dog can learn to be calm and confident in public, regardless of age or upbringing.

The pandemic saw the shelters empty as people looked for companionship during the lockdown. That was good for both the animals and the humans. There’s no one who appreciates time spent at home more than your dog. The down side was that these dogs led a sheltered existence, so to speak. The world they grew up in wasn’t the same as the one we have now.

Socializing your dog doesn’t mean they have to like every person or dog. It means they can be calm and listen to you wherever you are, whatever’s around, whoever you’re with.

Getting socialized

Just because your puppy couldn’t go places, meet people, and do things doesn’t mean they’ll never be able to. It does mean some “remedial” socialization has to happen. If your dog grew up in the time of “social distancing,” you just couldn’t do the things that help dogs mature into confident, calm beings with public manners. Now, you can.

The key is to start small. If your dog reacts to people walking by, freaks out when bicycles pass, or can’t handle hordes of traffic, don’t plunge them right into those situations. Figure out your dog’s “comfort zone” and expand their world gradually.

Distance is always your friend when training a reactive dog. Watch your dog’s body language. As long as they’re calm and relaxed, you’re doing fine. Watch for signs of stress. They may not be as obvious as lunging and barking.

Something as subtle as stopping to scratch may be stress. It could also be an itch, so look at your dog’s overall demeanor. Where is she holding her tail, or ears? A stiffly-held tail and laid-back ears are signs of nerves. Is he panting? Are the whites of his eyes showing? All of these say “I’m not comfortable.” If that’s the case, stop where you are and just let the dog adjust.

Using dog training’s most difficult skill

This is the time you need to pull out all your patience and just wait. Hang out with your dog. Let them look around and see there’s nothing threatening. When they look at you, reward. You’re establishing in the dog’s mind that they can trust you. You won’t bring them anywhere that’s scary or unsafe.

In this week’s “Manners” class, the first skill Hope had the dogs practicing was this one – doing nothing. All of these dogs were pandemic puppies, now grown into not-very-socialized dogs. It took a while for them to figure out there was nothing going on. We were all just sitting there. Ignoring their noise-making.

When they figured out there was nothing to bark at – they all stopped barking. Of course there were a few moments when one would forget and start, which triggered all of them. But each episode was shorter and had fewer participants.

If the dog stays calm or neutral, that’s the objective. The next time you can get a little closer and start reducing the size of the dog’s comfort zone. When you reach a point where your dog can sit calmly as people walk by in your quest to socialize your dog, it’s time to ask for some help.

Enlist friends and strangers

Ask people walking by to toss some treats to your dog. Hand them some treats if you can get that close. If not, put them on a surface and step away so the other person can reach the treats. As you calmly discuss the weather with the other person, they can toss the treats near your dog. Strangers, in time, become something to be happy about.

Fran’s almost 14-year-old Brussels Griffon Tango (pictured above) was an extremely reactive dog. He would bark, lunge, and try to bite both people and other dogs. No one but Fran could get near him. Taking him out in public was impossible. That was 13 years ago – he was 11 months old when he came home.

Now, just by the simple method described here, anyone can give Tango treats, pet him, even hold him. His first “cookie ladies” are still his favorite people – other than Fran. He was able to compete in Agility and Rally at large, noisy venues full of other dogs and people. Now, as a retired elder statesman dog, he’s everybody’s friend and a perfect gentleman. (Check out Book 5: Reactive Dog Recipe in the 2-Minute Trainer’s ebook series.) Tango is proof that it’s never too late to socialize your dog.

Socialize your dog at your dog’s speed

However old your dog is, that’s how long they’ve been building their current behavior. It won’t take as long to change it, but it will take patience and consistency. Stretch your dog’s “comfort zone,” but don’t try to smash the barrier all at once. You can have the calm, polite, socialized dog you planned on. It’s just going to take as long as it takes.

The easiest part of dog training

Everybody knows their dog’s favorite toys, treats, and the perfect spot for scritches. That’s all you need to know for training games. What are the things your dog loves best? Stockpile some of those, choose a game, and start playing!

All the nit-picky nuances

The things that aren’t as natural; reward timing and placement, consistent cues, breaking down behaviors into little teaching chunks, all come with time and practice. And there are some skills we never master, so we work around them. Both of us (Hope and Fran) are notorious for having terrible aim and throwing skills. Just awful. If there’s a way to toss a toy or ball so it smashes something, is unreachable, or causes an avalanche of other stuff, we’ll find it. That okay. We know we suck at it. Both of us practiced throwing the obedience dumbbell, without our dogs, just so we wouldn’t embarrass ourselves in public. We choose to do that here, instead.

And now the dumbbell retrieve is one of ours, and our dogs, favorite games. Because we’re both proud of ourselves for figuring out how to do it. Now it’s fun and we both look forward to playing with it.

Just play with your dog

It’s the easiest part of dog training because you don’t have to worry about getting it “right.” You’re not going to break your dog if you click at the wrong time, say the wrong thing, or misplace a treat. Your dog isn’t going to tell anyone you flubbed it, ever. And when you do screw up, and we all do, just give your dog an “oops” cookie and try again.

Many people worry that they’re doing something “wrong.” The only wrong is if your dog isn’t getting it. If they don’t understand the behavior you’re trying to shape, it’s time to find another angle for teaching it. You haven’t broken your dog, or your training. You just have to make some changes to clarify things.

The coolest thing about dog training is that your partner in crime, your dog, is always willing to play with you. Going back to our video series of trying to teach Torque to “Push” a tube with his nose, you’ll notice lots of changes from week to week. He didn’t understand, or something didn’t “work,” so we changed it.

Clean it up later

Go for the easy, fun part of dog training. Play some training games with your dog. If it needs some polishing, who cares? You can always do that later, when all of the fussy bits of training come more naturally. If you play with your dog, just a couple minutes a day, you’ll be juggling treats, leash, and clicker like a pro in no time.

Give and take in dog training

Life would be easier if everybody would just do what you want, wouldn’t it? But people have this pesky attitude that their opinion matters, too. Just like life, there’s give and take in dog training.

In a civilized society, the two points of view hash it out and come to a mutually satisfactory conclusion. Nobody gets everything they want, but everybody gets something.

Dog training’s like that. You want your dog to behave. Your dog may have a different, or fuzzy, idea of what “behaving” looks like. How do you reconcile those different opinions?

Pick your battles

There are three ways of resolving behavior issues with your dog:

Ignore it:

Simon has to "leave it," but Booker gets a cookie too. — Simon has to “leave it,” but Booker gets a cookie too.

This is for the things that you wish your dog didn’t do, but aren’t worth the energy to change. It’s different for everyone. And it depends on the dog. Booker and Simon (Fran’s Boston Terriers) both love to eat grass outside in the yard. Booker seems to have a cast-iron stomach. But eating grass (and dirt) makes Simon throw up. It was worth the effort to teach Simon to “Leave it!” for everything in the yard.

Is it fair there’s one rule for Simon and a different one for Booker? Probably not. But no one’s ever guaranteed that life is fair. The dogs don’t seem to notice, or care. As long as everyone gets a cookie when the treat pouch comes out, they’re all fine.

Manage it:

Managing the environment is how to deal with irritations you’re in the process of training, but haven’t gotten there yet. If your dog steals shoes, everybody puts their shoes away behind closet doors. If your dog is a counter-surfer, nothing’s on the counter.

This is also where the “tools” come into play. If your dog constantly pulls on leash, while you’re working on loose-leash walking, you can certainly use a no-pull harness. While you’re teaching your dog not to eat grass, control access by taking them out on leash and collar, even in your yard.

A friend of ours is a top-notch dog manager. And up until now, a complete failure at clicker-training, or game-based dog training. We tried. She just didn’t have the patience to let her dogs make decisions. Instead, she’s always told them what to do. Her current dog is having confidence issues her commands can’t fix. For this dog, whether she likes it or not, she’s learning to be patient.

Train it:

This is where you set your priorities. If you’re in a multi-generational family with toddlers or older people, your priority may be that your dog doesn’t jump on people. (2-Minute Trainer Method Book 4: Impulse Control) One of our students last session has balance issues, so her priority is loose-leash walking. Another wants to take her dog to the dog park and hiking, so the recall (Book 2: Come!) was top on her list.

Everybody’s priorities are different. These are the battles you choose to “fight” with frequent, short games that teach your dog the behavior you want. If you want your dog to stay quietly in their “place” while your family is at the dinner table, you sit at the dinner table and play “Place!” (Book 1: Clicker and Place) for a couple minutes every day.

Nobody can teach their dog everything all at once. And dogs can’t absorb it that way. Fortunately, once you and your dog are in the habit of playing training games, you’ll get around to all of it in time.

Give a little, take a little

You’re not a bad dog owner, or a quitter, if there are battles you choose not to fight. Management is fine, if it works for you, your family, and your dog.

Our most obvious one is at meal time. All of our dogs eat in their crates (in the dining room) at the same time we eat. No worrying about who’s eating which food. We’re not concerned about resource guarding. There are no suspicious silences from other parts of the house, and no hooliganizing wrestling matches. It’s a time we opt for peace, quiet, and not having to pay attention to the dogs.

In a way, that’s dog training, too. There’s no fussing in the crates, and no resistance to them. When the food preparation starts, the dogs go dashing to their respective crates. Everybody knows the rules, and happily abides by them.

Best morning routine includes your dog

Even the grumpiest getter-upper has a better start if dog games are part of the morning routine. You have to give your dog breakfast anyway. Why not turn it into a game to start the day?

Torque plays "Tap!" during his morning routine with Hope. — Torque plays “Tap!”

You don’t have to go anywhere, or prepare anything special. The dog food’s already there. You’re there. Your dog is with you. Wouldn’t a game of “Tap!” make you smile? How about making a dog-training game out of making breakfast? Teach your dog to open a cabinet, just by attaching a rope to the handle. Wouldn’t that be adorable?

Productive morning routine

According to the giant search engine, the trend since the start of the year includes making morning routines more productive. While resolutions have gone by the wayside, now people are getting realistic and looking for good ways to make the most of their days.

It’s not easy to build a new routine – habits are almost as hard to make as they are to break. According to studies we’ve seen, it takes anywhere from 28 to 250 days to form a habit, with most people falling into a range of about 66 days. That’s more than two months!

It’s no wonder resolutions don’t happen. Especially since most aren’t fun. They may be good for you, but let’s face it. If it were something you enjoyed, you wouldn’t have to resolve to do it.

Training games are different

But you do enjoy playing with your dog. You must, or you wouldn’t have a dog. So start small for a new morning routine. When you measure out your dog’s food, set five pieces aside. And ask your dog to do something (time for Kitchen Games!), either one thing five times, or five different things (sit, stand, down, paw, spin). When the five pieces are gone, you can feed your dog as usual.

Or, if you find yourself smiling and having fun, use more of your dog’s meal to keep playing. And that’s how you start to form a new morning routine that’s not only productive, but fun as well.

Dog Training Is Love Language

With Valentine’s Day coming up, everybody and their uncle is getting all gushy and throbby-hearty. Nothing wrong with being reminded to show your love. There’s no such thing as too much. And one of the beings in your life that is the epitome of unconditional love is your dog. Pure, unselfish, love is what dogs bring to our lives. And training is that dog love language.

We’ve been hearing about “love language” for a while now – how people relate to five different types of “love language.” We’re not sure why you have to choose, all are valid. And all five are essential parts of dog training. Our conclusion is that one of the best ways to show your dog that their love is appreciated and returned is to play training games every day.

Five love languages

The five labels for love language are:

Words of affirmation
Acts of service
Gifts
Quality time
Physical touch

Even just listing them, aren’t you going “check,” “check,” “check” in your head while you’re thinking about training games?

Words of affirmation

This one is a “gimme.” Whether you tend to be quiet or enthusiastic in giving feedback to your dog, they know the click, the “good dog!,” the “atta boy (or girl),” is confirmation of their worth and your love. It’s affirmation up the kazoo. There’s not a dog owner in the world who hasn’t looked into their dog’s eyes and cooed “Who’s a good dog? You’re a good dog!” just to see that tail wag, butt wiggle, and paw dance. Check!

Acts of service

Maybe not in the context of training games, but all the things we do for our dogs. Granted, it’s a responsibility we’ve chosen to take, but that doesn’t minimize its value. Feeding, walking, bathing, cleaning up after – all of those things add up to acts of service for our dogs.

Non-dog people may see this and wonder what we get out of the constant demands on our time and attention, not to mention wallets. And if/when one of them mentions something to that effect, we can shake our heads and pity them. Because they have no idea how great it feels to be completely loved and trusted by a dog. They’ve never looked into a dog’s eyes and seen themselves adored. Isn’t that sad?

Gifts

Maybe all of these are pretty obvious. Whether your dog is food- or toy-motivated, every reward could be considered a gift. It can also be considered payment for a job well done. But our gifts to our dogs aren’t limited to the rewards given in training games. We don’t know any dog owner who hasn’t given their dog something “just because.” Because they’re cute. Or because they’re good. And just because we love them.

Quality time

This is the definition of dog training games. Even if you only manage one two-minute session on some days, for those two minutes your entire attention and focus is on your dog. That’s the gift that every dog cherishes above any other – quality time with you. Even if your training games don’t go the way you expect some days, you still managed to let your dog know they’re important, and loved. (See “Top 10 reasons to play dog training games.”)

Physical touch

This is probably the most common way that people connect with their dogs to let them know they’re loved. Every dog owner can relate to what’s happening when you see a dog shove their muzzle into a person’s hand. Or put a paw on an arm or leg. Dogs not only like physical touch, many are determined to claim it as their due. Dogs aren’t called “pets” for nothing. We like petting them, and they like to be petted. Where’s your dog’s favorite spot? Behind the ears? In front of their tail? How about their jaw/throat? Or is it tummy rubs they love most? Every dog owner knows.

It all translates to love

You’re a lucky person when you have a dog. Especially if you’ve taken the steps to give your dog the enriched and fulfilled life that training games bring. There’s no way you need a translator for dog love language. You’re already fluent.

Give your dog time and tools

Do you give your dog time? Or do you expect your three-month-old puppy to be housebroken in a couple weeks? Leash-trained in a month? Stay out of the trash / laundry / mud instantaneously? It would be interesting if dogs came pre-programmed for all the “right” behavior. But they’re not machines. They’re living, breathing, thinking beings. And dogs need time to learn.

Say you’re out in public and you see a parent and child about two years old. The child is on a crying jag, screaming, kicking, and out of control. And the parent shouts and smacks the child.

You’re shocked! It’s obvious the child is overtired and the situation needs calm, not escalation. You don’t expect a two-year-old to know how to act in public, be perfectly potty-trained, and a pro at self-soothing. But many people expect a months-old puppy to be all of that and more.

Why positive reinforcement dog training “fails”

Positive reinforcement dog training is the best, scientifically proven means of training your dog. It works on people, it works on dogs. It doesn’t work fast, and it’s often misunderstood. Just like a human child is given time to learn at their own pace, without repercussions, dogs need time to learn, absorb, and practice good social behavior.

Lately there’s been a lot of nonsense floating around social media that positive training equals letting a dog do whatever it wants, whenever it wants. Nothing could be further from the truth. Dogs trained with positive reinforcement understand the limits of behavior and abide by them because they know. Not because they fear punishment if they fail.

Complete opposites

The nastiest trend in dog training lately is “balanced” training. From the explanations, it seems like this is a capricious mix of punishment and reward. If the dog does something good, it’s rewarded. If it does something “bad,” it’s corrected. But how is a dog supposed to know which is which? And how is “good” different from “bad”? Can you imagine living life at someone’s whim? Never knowing when something you do is going to end in pain? Dogs deserve better.

Until your dog understands how to be “good,” it’s up to you to limit the dog’s options for “bad.” If your dog steals shoes, keep shoes out of reach. Does your dog dig in your backyard? Go with him and keep him on leash. If your two-year-old child is fascinated by trucks, you stop him from running into the street. You don’t wait until he’s in traffic to act. You teach him not to do it. And pain isn’t part of the lesson. When one strategy in the 2-Minute method isn’t working the way we expect it to, we move to another: our “Plan B” – never a painful lesson.

Frustrating for the dog

One of our students has a bright, exuberant Miniature Poodle who she wants to compete with. One of his persistent problems in Hope’s competition Obedience class has been with the recall exercise. Instead of running straight to his Mom, at least half the time he runs over to Hope and starts jumping on her “Hi, I’m here!” “Hi!” “Hello!” “It’s me!”

Since Hope never encourages him, rarely looks at him, pets him, or talks to him, she didn’t understand why he does it. Until last week. His mom brought him into the building on leash, and he immediately spotted a new person. The dog ran over to this person while his mom said “He’s going to jump on you.” Since classes are at a dog daycare facility, it didn’t bother the person. Hope, witnessing this, told the dog’s mom she shouldn’t allow it. And was firmly told to mind her own business.

This dog will never understand why it’s okay to jump on a random man in the lobby and not the judge in the Obedience trial. His mother could easily turn this around – the dog is smart and eager to learn.

Keys to dog training

Dogs are easy to train if you abide by the key rules:

Be consistent. The rules are always in effect. Either it’s never okay to jump on people, or it’s always okay. Dogs know black and white. Shades of gray are alien.
Learning takes time. Be patient. You’ll know when your dog starts to think about their choices. Be on the lookout for those moments of decision – when your dog thinks before acting. That little hesitation before choosing the right thing is a triumph. Celebrate all the little wins.
Until your dog knows, control access. Remember there are three ways of dealing with dog behavior. Ignore the things you don’t care about. Manage the things your dog doesn’t know yet. Train the things you want your dog to know.

Give your dog the tools and the time