fun dog training Archives - Page 2 of 8

Practice always shows

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When we were little girls and took piano lessons, it always amazed us when our teacher knew when we hadn’t practiced. We were tone-deaf to our week-to-week improvement or lack thereof. But our teacher knew. Just like we can tell which participants in our classes play training games with their dogs. Practice always shows.

Unlike must-do homework and work projects, both piano lessons and dog training are things you do for fun and enrichment. There’s no accountability for neglecting practice. Except that you’ll never play Carnegie Hall. Or your dog will never walk politely on leash.

Just like we couldn’t tell whether we were getting better at playing the piano, you probably don’t see much difference in your dog’s behavior with a couple weeks of training games under your belt. But if you had a recording of your first time playing any training game, you’d be astonished by the difference.

Minimal investment, maximum return

The one game that most people do practice is “Puppy Push-ups.” We’re not sure if it’s because we start every class with the game, or if people (and dogs) just like it. But by the third week of class, every dog in every class we’ve ever taught is reliably understanding all three commands: Sit!, Stand!, and Down!

And yet, it seems that most people don’t even bother teaching their dogs this elementary training game. If they did, we’re pretty sure our TikTok video of it would be ignored, rather than having over a million and a quarter views.

Training games are easy to fit into your day. Focus on just one or two at a time. Figure out where you’ll probably play (near the couch, in front of the screen), stash a container of treats nearby. When a commercial starts streaming, call your dog over to play. Or just open the treat container. That should get Fido’s attention!

Pick your battles

Trainers have a saying that “Every dog is trained to their owner’s level of comfort.” It’s up to you to decide the aspects of dog behavior that are important, interesting, and fun for you and your dog. You may not care if your dog knows how to “Spin!,” so don’t bother with it. But you do want your dog to sit politely to greet guests in your home. That game moves up to the top of the list.

At the start of classes we’ll ask our students “What’s your dog’s best training game?” The answer is always the one that’s most important to that person. That’s the one they chose to play. And it’s the one their dog is best at. The practice and the proficiency go hand in hand.

Don’t complain. Train.

Dogs’ naughtiest behaviors often become the stories and anecdotes that build family legends. Like our first dog sneakily swiping a steak from the kitchen table while we were all standing there watching him. Or the auntie who darted into the bathroom as soon as you emerged to take anything/everything out of the wastebasket before her dog nabbed it.

But you don’t really want the funny stories. You want a dog who understands the rules of your household and is a full participant in family life. Pick a game. Any game. Start with one. Before you know it, you and your dog will have a concert-worthy repertoire.

Dog Training Game: Paws and Boots

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All dogs know the stuff that’s important. That doesn’t mean all dogs know the same stuff. What I think is important to teach my dog may be nothing at all like the stuff your dog knows. That’s okay. Every dog is trained to their owners’ level of comfort. If it matters to you, you’ll teach your dog. We think the dog training game Paws and Boots belongs in everyone’s repertoire.

If you don’t care, that’s fine. One of our current training students doesn’t mind that her dog jumps up on people. There’s absolutely no reason to train this dog not to do it. If you don’t mind, it doesn’t matter.

There is one exception. Every dog owner should care about their dog’s physical well-being, fitness, and body awareness. Like all training games, it’s fast and fun. This one also can make a difference in your dog’s life, extending their comfort and mobility even into their senior years.

Building the foundation

Dogs are a lot like people. When they’re young, strong, and healthy some take advantage of their physical prowess and build healthy habits that last a lifetime. Others are couch potatoes by nature and consider most movement optional and exercise a dirty word.

Whatever you choose for yourself, you should claim a place in the “Healthy Habits” camp for your dog. Muscles and joints are “use it or lose it” features. Making a game of exercise now sets them up for an active and thriving old-dog life.

Play Paws and Boots

Most dogs know they control their front legs and paws. Some use their front paws for much more than just walking. They’ll paw at you for attention, use their front paws to move stuff, even rearrange their bedding with front paws. The vast majority of dogs don’t know they also have back paws. Most have no idea they control their “boots,” too.

To play “Paws and Boots” you need something low, 4 to 6 inches, that your dog can step up on. An inflatable balance disc, a large rubber feed bowl, a short stool, even a cushion will do.

The first step is the easier one. Get your dog to put their front feet on the stool (or whatever you’re using). Like all training games, the dogs learn better if it’s their idea, so be patient. Stare at the stool and reward any interaction with it. If the dog looks at it, reward. The next step may be sniffing it, or pawing it. Reward about three or four times for each level of interaction, then wait for more. Get really enthusiastic with your praise when your dog uses their paws.

When the dog is putting two front feet on the stool, start naming it. Most people say something like “Paws Up!”

Around you go

Once your dog has two feet up on the stool, put pressure on them by moving into their space, even nudging their side with your leg. This is one of the few times we’ll advise holding a treat with the hand further from the dog. With both of you facing the stool, if the dog is on your right side, hold the treat in your left hand, with your arm across your body, close to the dog. As the dog curls their neck toward your treat hand, they’ll move their back legs away from you. Continue all the way around the stool, both directions.

It may take a few sessions to get all the way around. Your dog doesn’t understand what you want yet and may keep dropping down to the floor. Try again, praising every time the dog puts front feet on the stool.

Boots are harder

It’s more difficult to teach dogs their back feet, or “Boots” are under their control. The easiest way to start the Boots portion is to have your dog walk across the stool and stop them with boots up. If they come off the object, just try again, repeatedly walking them over and getting them to stop with boots up. Be sure to repeat the phrase “Boots Up!” when they’re in the correct position so they understand that’s the objective.

When they understand “Boots Up!” it’s time to move them around the stool. For this portion of the game, stand facing your dog and take small steps to either side to encourage them to move their feet. Again, it may take a while for the dog to learn what “Boots Up!” means. Be patient. It’s an exercise for a lifetime, not a deadline.

Movement Puzzle #2: Work the Arc

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The object is to teach your dog to think

Multi-tasking is a skill that can be developed in dogs as well as people. We’re not talking about a DaVinci-esque ability to write different things with each hand simultaneously. We’re not even talking about the physical coordination needed to walk and chew gum. Instead, we’re focusing on teaching your dog to think even when over-the-top excited. There’s no point in telling your dog to calm down when they’re excited. It’s like teaching a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. Instead, give your dog the skills to listen and decide, even in chaotic, noisy, and distracting environments.

Different levels

To set up the Arc movement puzzle, a fun derivation of Vito’s Game, gather some different-height, sturdy stools, boxes, benches, etc. big enough for your dog to stand on and able to support your dog’s weight. You’ll also need a couple flat items to start each side of the Arc. Don’t worry about collecting all of it before you get started. You’ll add on over time.

For the first session, you’ll need one low step and two flat mats. Place the step in the center and a mat to either side. You’ll also need two bowls to drop treats into and some treats. You can set up wherever you have enough room for your dog to move. This is one of the games you can play outside, weather permitting.

The objective of the puzzle, for your dog, is to move from one side to the other, stepping on each of the obstacles in the Arc each way. For the first session it’s just the three items on the curve of the Arc.

Get started

Since this is a puzzle for your dog to solve, start by setting your dog up on the small step. You’ll add the two mats later. Go stand between the two bowls. Drop a treat in one of the bowls and let your dog get it. Then look at the step. If your dog returns to the step, look at the other bowl. Just look. Don’t drop a treat in until your dog starts moving toward it.

Don’t say anything. Don’t tell your dog where to go. Remember, the object is to teach your dog to think. If you give your dog the answer, it’s not a dog puzzle, it’s you controlling your dog. You’re hinting at the answer by where you look: bowl, step, opposite bowl. That subtle cue is all your dog gets. The rest they solve on their own.

It may take a while for your dog to get the hint and figure out what you want. They may bark, scratch, fuss, etc. Ignore it. Stick with the puzzle cues. Your dog will, in time, go from bowl to step to other bowl and back again. Every time they get near the bowl, drop a treat in.

Next step

When your dog has figured out the sequence, add the two flat mats on either side of the step. The dog must step on all three objects to get the treats. Again, moving from side to side.

This puzzle keeps your dog moving and thinking at the same time. As they conquer each step, add more. Either add steps of different levels to either side, or move yourself and your bowls further away, or add tall objects to the ends of the arc for the dog to go around.

The possibilities for this game are limitless. You can add objects to circle, to crawl under, to jump over, etc. When you teach your dog to think, and as they learn the rhythm of the movement puzzle, they’ll look forward to new challenges.

Back and forth

It’s a simple concept, move back and forth to get the treats. It’s also a puzzle that’s as challenging as you choose to make it.

You won’t know where your dog’s limits are if you never test them. You could discover that there are no barriers to your dog’s possibilities. Find out. Just for the fun of it.

Movement Puzzle #1 – Vito’s Game

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What’s your absolute favorite thing about doing puzzles? It’s figuring them out for yourself. It’s not as much fun if somebody helps you, or gives you a hint.

Your dog is going to love learning movement puzzles. They’ll look forward to playing every time. Your dog will love seeing what new twists you add to their puzzles.

But it’s going to be hard on you. Probably more difficult than any other training game you’ve played with your dog. Because you’re not allowed to help.

Simple setup

There are basically two main variations of the Movement Puzzle. This week we’ll introduce the more static version. You get to sit for this one.

This thinking game / movement puzzle is called “Vito’s Game.” We were introduced to it in a video by the great dog trainer Susan Garrett of “Say Yes!” Dog training.

You need two bowls for treats, lots of treats, and an obstacle for your dog to go around. It can be anything. We generally use a five-gallon bucket or a wastebasket.

Sit on the floor with your legs crossed. Have one empty bowl at each side, near your hips. Hold the treats between your legs.

Start playing side to side

Get your dog’s attention and gently toss a treat off to your right. Then toss one to your left. This will implant the idea of going side to side in your dog’s mind. Do it a couple more times, alternating sides, and make your toss a little closer each time. For the last introductory part, drop a treat in one of the bowls at your side. Then, after your dog’s gotten that treat, drop one in the bowl on the other side.

Now’s the time to start using the bucket. Put it right up against your shins so your dog has to go around it to get to your other side. Now wait. (It’s hard, but you’ve got this.)

If your dog goes right to one of the bowls, drop a treat in it. Wait for them to go around the bucket to the other side. You can look at the empty bowl, but you can’t say anything, or tap the bowl, or give any other cue. It’s up to your dog to go around and check the other bowl. As soon as they do, drop a treat in.

When your dog is fairly reliably going side-to-side to get the treats from the bowls by your sides, start gradually moving the bucket away from you. Your dog still has to circle around the bucket, side to side, to get the treats.

Booker playing Movement Puzzle Vito's Game

Booker got it right - a treat goes in the bowl.

If your dog takes a shortcut and tries to get to the other side by taking a path between you and the bucket, don’t say anything. Just move the bucket closer and start again.

Think about it

Vito’s Game is a puzzle your dog has to solve. It’s a thinking game, something most people don’t normally expect, or require from their dogs. But good training encourages dogs to make good decisions. The dog has to figure out what they have to do to get the treats.

You may have to start from scratch the first few times you play Vito’s game. That’s okay. Your dog will get it. As long as you do your part.

Your job is to deliver treats to the bowls. That’s it. For the game to be effective, you can’t cheat. No hints, no cues, no talking, no tapping treats on the bowls, no telling your dog what to do. Let your dog find the joy in solving the puzzle.

Training Game: Hold it!

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Teaching your dog to “Hold it!” is more useful than you’d think.

It’s adorable. We know someone whose dog holds a white board, so she can write any message or greeting and have a ready-made perfect social media post.

It’s helpful and adorable. Someone else we know taught her competition obedience dog to hold and carry his gear bag. The best part was the dog wasn’t a Golden Retriever or a Border Collie. He was a toy dog – a little Brussels Griffon.

It’s game-changing, helpful, and adorable. Teaching your dog to hold something in high-traffic areas can keep them busy and out of trouble. Even if you have an exuberant, excitable dog.

Why it’s magical

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque makes lots of funny sounds. Most Frenchies do. Other dogs have, on occasion, reacted poorly to him. It got to the point where he was always on the lookout for other dogs, ready to bark and behave rather rudely.

Torque also loves toys. Rubber balls with holes in them are his favorite. So Hope taught him to “hold” his toy. Now he confidently walks around anywhere, from the local neighborhood to a dog sport competition, showing everyone his little pink ball. Everyone thinks it’s adorable, not camouflage for potential misbehavior.

If your dog is somewhat leash-reactive, or reacts to other dogs, people, bicycles, strollers, etc. on walks, you can solve your problem by teaching your dog to “Hold!” a favorite toy. Instead of leaving the impression that your dog’s a jerk, you’ll inspire positive reactions and smiles. Make sure the toy’s a cute one, and as charming as possible. Like Torque and his little pink ball.

Teaching “Hold it!”

Most dogs want to hang onto their favorite stuff. If that’s the case for your dog, your training challenge will be sustaining the “Hold!” then getting your dog to “Drop it!” on command. Of course, ultimately your dog will have to “Drop it” when you tell them to. That’s another game.

If your dog naturally holds things, the first step is to make sure the dog will “Hold!” while wearing a collar and leash. If they’re used to playing naked, this may be more of an adjustment than you’d think. Just practice while the dog is “dressed,” putting light tugging pressure on the toy. If your dog drops the toy, just look at it and say something like “What happened? You dropped it!” Let the dog think picking it up is their idea. It is your dog’s job to keep track of their own toy.

Once the dog is securely holding the toy, pick up the leash and add motion. Again, if the dog drops the toy, let them pick it up. Just look at the toy and encourage your dog to get it. If you start picking up the toy when the dog drops it, they’ll rely on you to keep doing it. If they know mom (or dad) will get it, they’ll feel free to drop the toy to yell at that dog across the street. It’s your dog’s job to hold the toy and retrieve it if it’s dropped.

Gradually add more motion as your dog becomes good at “Hold!” Then practice everywhere. Remember that it’s your dog’s job to take care of their toy, but be sure you know where it is and take charge if necessary.

Not a possessive type

If your dog readily drops whatever they pick up, your challenge is more complex. You have to build value in the “Hold!”

Start with a favorite toy. If your dog doesn’t have one, you choose one that’s small enough for your dog to hold comfortably, and that has some part you can grab. If your dog will not pick up a toy, get down on the floor and slowly swish the toy back and forth in front of your dog, lightly brushing their forelegs with it. Most dogs find this both intriguing and annoying, and they’ll eventually succumb to the temptation to grab it.

Since your goal is the “Hold!,” don’t start a vigorous game of “Tug!” when your dog grabs the toy. Instead, keep up a steady pressure. This will trigger the dog’s natural tendency to pull. Since you’re keeping the game rather gentle, the dog shouldn’t go into head-shaking, kill-the-toy tugging. Get your dog used to moving around while playing gentle tug with you.

If your dog drops the toy and leaves you holding it, you drop it, too. Then stare at it and encourage your dog to “get it!” If they don’t, or seem confused, you can toss the toy a short way away and “race” your dog to the toy. Let them win! Then you can start the tugging pressure again.

Be patient

Like all behaviors, every dog picks up on “Hold!” at their own pace. Be patient and persistent. If you have a dog whose leash manners could use improvement, giving them something to “Hold!” is the fastest way to achieve better leash behavior.

Dog Training Game – Turning in Circles

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What you call your dog’s “turning in circles” games depends on the level where it’s happening.

If your dog is lying on the floor, it’s “Roll Over!”

When your dog is standing with all four feet on the ground, it’s “Spin!”

If your dog’s up on their hind feet, it’s “Dance!” (mostly because pirouette is too hard to say and spell).

By the way, all three are great Kitchen Games – behaviors that don’t need a lot of room, not much time, and just a handful of treats.

Three games in one

All three variations start with the same action – turning your dog’s head one way or the other. With a treat held near the dog’s nose, just move it slowly to the side and back. Dogs get the idea better if your arm is over your dog’s back and you’re actually luring their motion from behind.

Keep the treat close to the dog’s nose, so move at the pace your dog sets. Even if your dog regularly spins in circles, like when they’re excited or chasing their tail, they won’t understand what you want right at first. Be patient.

If the dog’s head/neck only moves to about their shoulder, reward there and try for a bit further next time.

Paw-edness

This is a behavior that most dogs will do better going in one direction than the other. Like people, dogs have a dominant side.

Even if your dog is showing you they clearly prefer one side to the other, teach them turning in circles both ways. You want them to be equally balanced, not develop one-sided skills. Ideally you want to work all of their muscles for these fun fitness behaviors.

Standing Spin

Teaching “Spin” is probably the easiest of the three. Both you and your dog should be standing, with your dog facing either right or left and you standing perpendicular to your dog. Holding a treat in the hand farthest from the dog’s head, reach over their back to the side of their face away from you and get them to turn their face away from you, toward the treat. If your dog keeps moving around with your treat hand leading, turn them all the way around in a circle.

Most dogs don’t get it the first time and will seem confused. Your movement matters here. Try not to reach your arm too far out. Keep the treat close to your dog’s nose so they follow it around. This is almost literally leading them around by the nose.

Be patient. For most dogs the “Spin!” is pretty fast. They will prefer going one way over the other. Give the different directions (clockwise and counter-clockwise) separate names, like “Spin!” or “Turn!”

It gets confusing

Many people think the two words should be “Right!” And “Left!” Don’t be tempted. Who/s “Right!” do you mean? Yours or the dog’s? What if you’re facing each other? What if you’re next to each other? It just gets tortuous to figure out.

Floor work

If you’re teaching your dog “Roll Over,” it’s pretty much the same thing. The two of you are perpendicular to each other with you sitting and your dog lying down. Bring the hand furthest from the dog’s face over their shoulder, toward their nose. Get them to turn their heads to follow the treat hand.

Instead of going straight back, lure your dog’s motion up and toward you. Most dogs will naturally start rolling over.

Some dogs won’t ever roll over. Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, is flat-out scared of turning turtle. It was Teddy’s, her previous Frenchie, best trick. Fran’s Boston Terriers whirl around any time, any where, all three levels. Since the behavior is basically just for fun, you shouldn’t push your dog if they hate it.

Dance

Start by having your dog stand up on their hind legs and reward at the apex. When the dog has been doing it for a while and is fairly stable on their back legs, move the treat in a circle for them to follow. Again, try to have them turn both ways. (Ceilidh – pronounced “Kay-lee” – loved to dance!)

Most dogs love these behaviors and will get them fairly quickly. You can stop luring it when you think your dog is getting the idea. Continue to reward after the lure isn’t necessary. Dogs may love doing it, but their good work should always be rewarded.

As you fade the lure, you’ll find yourself using the hand motions to trigger the behavior. Take note of how you’re moving so you can use it as a consistent hand signal. In no time at all, your dog will be turning in circles at the wave of your hand!

Training Game- Ring Around The Targets

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How long does it take to create a new dog training game? Almost none. On the spur of the moment last night we made up “Ring Around The Targets.”

Most dogs love Target Training. It’s easy, it’s fast, and it lets the dog get rewarded for something they love doing anyway – sticking their noses into something. We started there and embellished, a lot.

Target Training is a great skill to teach your dog, and one that lets you build some distance from your dog. Most dogs are unfamiliar with the idea of doing stuff away from their people. Dogs’ preferred position is right in front of you, staring adoringly at your face.

In our Rally class yesterday we worked on getting the dogs to go away from their people and sit near a plastic cone about eight feet away. To get the dogs to move away by themselves, we used paper plates as targets next to the cones.

Left holding the targets

Since we only play training games for a maximum of five minutes at a time, even in class, Hope wound up with a handful of paper plates that had doubled as targets. So she made up a new game on the spot.

All the Rally class dogs know targets. We usually use plastic lids from containers of products like sour cream, cottage cheese, even ice cream. You can use anything as a target, as long as you’re able to “load” it with a treat.

For our new Ring Around the Targets game, we used the paper plates. You can use as many as you like, but at least five. Arrange them in a circle, with you and your dog in the middle. The circle of targets can be as big as you like – the bigger the better.

Don’t pre-load the targets with treats. We want to reward the dogs, not lure them to the goal.

Release the dogs

After you’ve got everything set up, release your dog. If you’ve built value in the Target game, your dog should dash from one target to the next. Depending on your dog’s experience, you can either follow along and reward each target (for newbies) or wait and give your dog a jackpot when they’ve completed the entire circle (experienced dogs).

All the dogs had a blast and got it right the first time. None of them, or the people, had ever seen the game before. It never existed – Hope just made it up. That’s the kind of training flexibility you’ll have when you play training games with your dog.

When you play training games, your dog expects to have a good time. No matter what the game, whether they know it or not. The expectation of having fun is always there. The dogs are open to trying new things. They’re not wary or afraid of things they haven’t seen before. They trust their training games partner and know it’s going to be fun.

Always a spoonful of sugar

Many of the training games address behavioral issues most dogs have. They teach basic manners and improve dogs’ liveability. But the dogs don’t know that. They just know they’re having fun, understanding more, and getting to spend time with the people they love.

Not all training games have to be useful or have a particular goal in mind. We have dogs because life’s better and more fun with a dog. Some training games are just for fun, too, like the Ring Around the Targets game. The best part is you get to play them with your dog.

Play the hard training games

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Remember when you were in school and there were classes you loved, classes that were okay, and those you loathed? Your dog’s version of school is playing training games with you. There are some games they love. And others that they have a hard time with. If you want your dog to live up to their full potential, you have to play the hard training games.

Fortunately, even if you play the tough ones every day, it’s only a couple minutes at a time. The agony will soon be over. And one day, probably sooner than you’d expect, it will suddenly click for your dog and that impossible game becomes a favorite. That’s the way it happens.

Dark, dark, dark, dark. Light Bulb!

A great example is Hope’s French Bulldog Torque learning the “Send Away Sit” (#306) sign in Rally. When you come to the sign, you and your dog stop. The dog sits. Then you tell your dog to go to a pylon or cone which is about six feet away (the Send Away part). You tell your dog to “Sit!”

For the longest time, Torque didn’t understand it at all. Hope tried everything: a target near the pylon, a mat, throwing a treat or a toy. Torque just was not getting it. He wouldn’t go far enough, or too far. He wouldn’t sit, or moved away to sit.

It’s not like Hope pounded away at it. She’d try for a couple minutes about every other week or so. While each little session was a bit frustrating, the failure wasn’t allowed to color all of their training games. Then, after a few months of occasionally trying, it clicked. Now Torque gets it perfectly every time. It took a while, but once it did, it stuck like glue.

If it matters, keep trying

Not everybody has competition goals. Mastering a particular Rally skill may not be on your radar. That’s okay. There are everyday behaviors that are difficult for dogs, yet vital for everyday life. Jumping on people is a good example. If your dog’s idea of saying “Hi! I love you!” is to jump on someone, that’s a problem. If they’ve been doing it for a while, it may take a while to fix. But it’s worth it. Polite greetings require dogs to think, to suppress their impulses, to make good choices.

Just because something is difficult doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing. When you were a child, was it easy to learn how to ride a bicycle? Or tie your shoelaces? Did your friends or siblings have an easier time than you did? There were also things that you understood faster and more easily than they did.

Lean into the hard stuff

It’s unfortunately an absolute truth that the training games your dog understands least are the most important ones to play. This week we introduced the impulse-control game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” in our puppy class. One of the puppies got it in no time. It was almost like he’d been waiting for a chance to shine. Another puppy, who had far exceeded the first in every other game, had a terrible time. During class he showed no sign of understanding at all. And that’s the game we recommend his people play the most.

Almost all of the training games are designed to teach your dog skills that make your life together easier, happier, and more fun. Playing some of them may seem pointless when your dog just isn’t catching on. Dog training isn’t a steady upward climb. There are dips and angles, triumphs and failures. Overall, the trajectory is upwards. The training game your dog finds impossible now will be puppy’s play in a few weeks.

Keeping your sessions fast, fun, and short means there’s always another chance to have fun with your dog. If you play three training games a day (just about 15 minutes), there will be a major difference in your dog’s behavior and understanding in just a couple weeks. Prove it to yourself. Take video of a session with a difficult training game today. Play that game a couple times a week for a month. After that month, take another video and compare. The evidence of progress will be right before your eyes.

Teach a release word

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Many people neglect to teach a release word to their dogs. If you don’t, how does your dog know it’s time to stop what they’re doing?

All good stories have three parts; a beginning, a middle, and an end. Dog behaviors or tricks are the same. Each should have the same three parts. Most people do fine teaching the beginning. They understand that a good set-up and focus is crucial.

The middle is sometimes trickier. Rather than teaching the dog to keep doing what it’s doing, they’ll constantly repeat the command. “SitSitSit.” And when they stop saying it, the dog thinks it’s done.

Rarely do we encounter people who emphasize the end, the Release Word. It’s the clearest way to signal that it’s time to move on.

Stop and Go

It doesn’t really matter what word you choose for a Release Word. Many people use “Free” or “Okay” or “Go.” We tend to recommend a word your dog doesn’t hear constantly (like okay). Trainers debate about this all the time. Some are convinced their dogs can discriminate between a command and normal conversation. Others think using a common word is a mistake. You should use a word you can remember and all family members will use.

Release words are most often used in conjunction with the “Stay!” After all, for every “stop” there should be a “go.” If you don’t teach your dog when it’s okay to stop staying, they’ll decide for themselves and the “Stay!” loses meaning.

Steps for teaching the Release Word

Start with the “Stay!” Get your dog to sit, either in front of you or at your side. Holding a treat, bring your hand up to your ear and slowly lower it toward your dog. If your dog moves any paw or their butt, bring the treat back up quickly. They are allowed to move their head or tail only.

If your dog doesn’t move, when your hand is lowered to your dog’s level, give them the treat. Repeat this about three or four times.

Here’s where the Release Word comes in. Don’t move – use exactly the same motion and posture you had for the “Stay!” part. This time, stop your hand’s downward motion slightly above your dog’s head. You want your dog to have to move to get the treat.

When your motion stops, say your dog’s Release Word and wait for them to hop up to get the treat. Don’t move and don’t repeat. Just wait for your dog to move on their own. If you want your dog to understand what a Release Word means, you have to let them figure it out. When they hear “Free!” It means they can move.

It takes patience

The Release Word is pretty easy for most dogs to understand. The hard part is pairing it with other behaviors. You can also use it for “Place!” And it makes a good ending for any other training game, like Puppy Push-ups, or Perch Work.

You don’t always need to use a Release Word. In the “Recall” exercise, you leave your dog in a “Stay!” and walk away. When you get to the other side of the ring, you call your dog to you. In this case, the new command (Come) tells your dog it’s time to do something else and you don’t need to double up with the Release Word.

Whenever you play training games with your dog, think about the beginning, middle, and end. It’s a story you and your dog will enjoy.

Check in with your partner

Spread the love

You may be the one who pays the rent, buys the food, and sets the thermostat. You may even consider yourself the superior partner in your relationship with your dog. But that doesn’t mean you get their unwavering attention 24/7. Depending on the individual dog, it may come close. But you still have to check in with your partner.

All dog training is a partnership and a bargain you make with your dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a pretty good deal, if you look at it that way. But you still can’t take it for granted.

Graphic example

Before every exercise in competition Obedience, the judge asks “Are you ready?” We simulate this in our classes, asking every student before every exercise. Newcomers in the class will, just like in competition, meet our eyes, smile, and say “Ready!”

No, they’re not. It’s usually one of the first opportunities we have to yell at our students. It may be polite to look someone in the eye when you’re talking to them. If you’re at the start line, ready to compete with your dog, forget polite. Before you answer, check with your dog. If the dog meets your eyes and is paying attention, you can answer ready. If they’re not, you get to say, “Not yet!” and engage your dog before you answer “Ready!”

Even with beginners

We also teach Puppy and Beginner classes. The biggest issue, especially in the first class session, is getting the dogs to focus on their people. Expecting them to ignore the new place, new people, and other dogs is asking a lot.

That’s why we start with the super-fun game Puppy Push-ups. Most dogs know at least one of the three positions (Sit, Stand, Down). So we start with a fast, fun game that has the dog paying attention and lots of rewards. The faster they switch position, the more treats come their way. It also helps that most people automatically stand in front of their dogs and block their view of distractions.

Keep their focus

The best definition of a “well socialized dog” is one who can be comfortable enough in any situation to pay attention to their person. Dogs are allowed to check out their surroundings. They can look around, even sniff intriguing scents. They also check in with their person regularly.

You should return the courtesy. Before you start something new, let your dog know what’s happening. If you’ve played the Name Game, all it should take to get their attention is saying their name. Once you have their focus, begin.

When you practice loose-leash walking, don’t just start moving. If your dog isn’t paying attention, the leash is immediately tight. Set yourself and your dog up for success. Get their attention. Say “Let’s go” or something to let them know something’s going on.

Surprises are bad

Once in motion, get in the habit of checking in with your dog when you’re about to stop or change directions. Can you imagine what it feels like to be walking with a friend and they constantly tug on your sleeve, or your shirt collar, to guide you? It’d be uncomfortable and intrusive. Why couldn’t they just say “this way!”

Don’t let the leash be your means of communication with your dog. Tell them. Use your voice and meet their eyes. Your dog wants to be with you. Check in with your partner and tell them where you’re going.