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Dog Training Games Video Is Priceless

Get over yourself.

Your dog training game video will help you in training your dog. — Your dog training game video will help

That’s the message I (Hope) have to tell myself whenever we talk about doing a new dog-training-games video for 2-Minute-Trainer. It doesn’t matter what I look like, sound like, or wear. It matters that we’re helping people have more fun training their dogs. That’s the thing we know how to do, are pretty good at, and want to share.

And these days, more people watch than read. So to get out the message of positive, fun, fast dog training, we use video. It’s the message that matters, not the medium.

Unexpected benefits

Something pretty magical happened when I watched the videos of my training with Torque. In almost every single one, I was laughing and having fun with my dog. Maybe that’s the most powerful message in all our training. There are lots of great reasons to play training games with your dog. The best one is that it’s fun for both of you.

We highly recommend that you take video of your training games with your dog. You don’t have to let anybody else see it, if you don’t want to. It’s for you.

Keeping a record

I was having a not-so-great day until I watched the video with Torque. Just seeing my own expression change from serious to joy, because my dog was impatient to play with me. It turned the whole day around.

No matter what happens on any tomorrow, I will always be able to look at that video and see the happiness – mine and my dog’s. If you ever doubt that your dog is enjoying your training games, watch the video. Look at your dog’s rapt expression. Their intensity and eagerness to play will motivate you to play even more dog training games.

If you record your sessions regularly, you’ll also have a precious record of how far you’ve come from where you started. Try to take video at least once a week. You’ll be glad you did. Especially for those times when you don’t seem to be making headway. Reminding yourself where you were, and how far you’ve come, is a real boost.

Going viral

If you’re hoping for internet fame and figure out the secret, by all means go for it and share it with us. Our video Spotlight Series seemed to be growing; the first four videos had geometric growth from week to week. (Booker’s “Dance” is below.) Maybe ironically, the video that brought such joy has almost no views. We may not know the magic formula for internet stardom. What we do know is how special the relationship with our dogs is, and capturing that for posterity is priceless.

Dogs Tell On Their Trainers

Dogs tell us everything we need to know to be effective trainers. It’s how well we’re paying attention that makes the difference. Dogs are really honest – brutally so. And they’re excellent at pointing out the gaps in our training. Dogs are notorious for tattling on their trainers.

Boston Terrier on a balance disc to illustrate Dogs Tell. — Simon’s “crouchy-hovery” stand started on the balance disc.

Simon demonstrated the point this week. The “Stand” exercise has always been challenging for him. Fran had to change the word to “Station,” after he became convinced that “Stand” meant sort-of-crouching with his butt in the air. Stand has always been a weird bugaboo for him. (Learn more about starting new, rather than fixing it in the tip: “Don’t Fix Your Dog.”)

Lately, he’s been spot-on when he hears “Station” in the “Stand for Exam” exercise in Novice class. From the heel position, he pops up like a champ, and stands like a stone for the “head, shoulder, hip” examination. Naturally, we expected that he now understands what “Station” means.

Take nothing for granted

We found out – not so much. When we’re out in the yard, we play recall games with the dogs. They run back and forth between us for treats. Sometimes they get rewards just for coming. Other times they have to “do something” to get a treat. The other day Hope said “Station!” to Simon as he came to a stop in front of her. All he had to do was stand still. He did everything but.

Fran tried it – after all, he is her dog and training partner. Same result – down, sit, back up, etc. Everything but the stand we were looking for. She tried again with Simon at her side instead of in front of her. Perfect “Station!”

Dogs always tell

Simon was telling us, clear as day, that he understands “Station” only in context. He hasn’t generalized it at all. It matters where he’s positioned, where we’re training, and who’s asking him for the behavior. And, when he told us, we’re listening to him.

When your dog highlights the gaps in training, don’t be disappointed or frustrated. If your dog understands parts of the whole, you’re on track for filling in the rest. Just like you taught your dog the parts he/she knows, you can build understanding for the whole behavior.

Work the arc

In the example of Simon’s “Station!,” we’ll start by working a step at a time. Literally. Starting at heel position, we’ll take a step away, return and reward “Station!” if he stays put. Then we’ll take a small, side step away before we say “Station!” and see if he understands. We’ll gradually work in an arc, until we can stand facing him and he understands when we give the command.

Once dogs understand a word means the same thing no matter where you are, what you’re doing, or who says it, they’ve got it. The same holds true for hand signals. It may need a refresh once in a while, but it won’t be starting from scratch. As long as you use the command or signal once in a while, it should stay in their memory banks.

Use Mom voice with your dog

Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words. However, that doesn’t make them great conversationalists. When talking to your dog, keep it short and simple. And use your “mom” voice.

We have some dog training students who seem to have non-stop discussions with their dogs. And, predictably, their dogs pay little or no attention when they talk. What the dog hears is like the nonsense syllables of adults in the Charlie Brown cartoon shows: “Blah, blah, blahbity blah.”

Mean what you say

You and your dog make a great team! — Your dog’s primary job is to be a good companion!

Sometimes, you just talk to your dog. You’re just relaxing and hanging out, so you share the day’s events, or talk about plans. Or even just sing along with whatever song is playing. Dogs are great companions – that’s their number one job. And if you’re doing it right, you may even get that adorable head tilt.

Then there are times when you need your dog to pay attention and you want him/her to do as you say. Whether that’s “Stay!” when you’re carrying groceries into the house, or “Sit!” instead of jumping on Grandma when she’s offering a treat.

Those are the times you need your dog to understand and obey. We hesitate to use words like “command” or even “obey.” They convey a harshness that’s not necessary.

Mom voice

It’s more a tone of voice that lets the listener know you’re serious. Remember when your Mom asked you to take out the trash? You probably either ignored the first request, or responded “In a minute.”

For the second ask, her tone was less asking and more telling. And the third time, she used “mom voice” and you got up and took out the trash.

It didn’t mean she was angry – just that she really meant it that time. When you need your dog to obey, use that Mom voice. You don’t have to sound harsh, or belligerent. But you do have to sound like you mean it and that you expect your dog to do what you’ve said.

Silence is golden

If the first part of the equation is short, definitive speech, the second part is equally important. Once you’ve said “Dog, Sit!” shut up. Wait for your dog to process what you’ve said and do it.

If you keep talking, or repeat the command multiple times, your dog will either disregard the meaningless chatter, or wait for you to sound like you mean it.

We see it all the time. When the dog doesn’t do something instantly, the person repeats it. And teaches their dog that saying “Sit!” happens some number of times. It becomes a part of the behavior.

Part of the routine

Before you know it, you have a dog that waits until he/she hears it three times before doing it, whatever it is. Dogs are good at learning patterns. If it’s your pattern to chatter and repeat, it could be a factor in why your dog is slow or seems confused.

One of the most overused words dogs hear is their own name. Especially when people bark their dog’s name to get their attention. Either add a command to tell your dog what you want (and reward them for doing it), Or acknowledge and reward when your dog looks at you when you say his/her name. As we’ve said before, your dog’s name doesn’t mean much by itself.

Don’t neglect to give your dog a reason to pay attention. Deliver the information your dog needs Clearly and concisely. And always reward (treats, toys, praise, pets) when they do what you said.

Clear, concise communication is the goal.

Dog training is teamwork

At the bottom of this post you’ll find links to the winning performances of the AKC Virtual Trick Dog competitions for the last two years. What’s most notable isn’t that the dogs are wonderful, which they are. It’s that the dogs are doing pretty normal tricks. And not necessarily getting them right on the first try. What’s spectacular is the narrative their people put together. It lets them show off their wonderful dogs doing fun stuff. Because good dog training is teamwork.

Reward for right

The other thing we noticed is that the people stopped to reward when their dogs did well. Even while recording a competition video. Because letting your dog know when they’re “right” has to be different from being “wrong.” It’s a lesson that’s hard for many of our students. We wish we had a nickel for every time we said: “Getting it right should be rewarded.” At every opportunity. Even for behaviors your dog’s known since he/she was a puppy. (Here’s more about rewards.)

Most of the tricks the dogs perform in these videos are variations on the themes of “get on it,” “get over it,” “go through it,” “carry it,” and “put it over there.” All of them are within your dog’s capabilities. The dogs don’t do the narrated routines on their own. Their people are there, showing them what to do every step of the way. And the dogs’ tails are wagging throughout. These dogs are having a good time.

Your dog training team

Dogs doing things and being rewarded are featured in the Trick Dog Championship videos. — Torque is carrying a cardboard tube.

You can see the dogs watching their people throughout. They’re anticipating having more fun. And treats. But they’re not harassing the “cookie hand.” These dogs know that when they do what they should, they’ll be rewarded for it. These dogs aren’t dragging through their routines. They’re practically dancing from one trick station to the next.

It’s also worth noting that when the dogs don’t get it right the first time the only thing that happens is they get to try again. There’s no punishment. There’s just another chance to get it right. And be rewarded for it.

That’s the agreement we make with our dogs. When we get what we want, they get what they want. Mostly what they want is our attention. And treats. Dog training is all about the team. Playing fun games, teaching dogs how to make good decisions, having fun, and expanding their understanding.

Not robot dogs

Will your dog mess up? Sure. Everybody does. Some days are better than others. And there will be 2-Minute dog game sessions that are a mess from the start. Even those sessions have some value because it teaches us how to change gears and try something else.

It’s important that you’re easy on yourself and your dog. These top-winning Trick Dog competitors are ready to try again when their dogs miss the first try. They’re quick with the rewards when their dogs get it right. And they’re not afraid to show the world they and their dogs aren’t perfect. They’re proud to show off their amazing dogs.

https://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3ohttps://youtu.be/VFlYPZphg3o 2021 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Miniature Poodle)

https://youtu.be/7zsO5IdLPBY 2022 AKC Virtual Trick Dog Competition Winner (Australian Terrier)

Find It! Dog Game

The “Find It!” Dog Game hits all the right buttons for most dogs. They are, by nature, hunters. Sniffing for “prey” is something just about every dog does. It’s a part of their instinct to seek, even though our pets don’t have to worry about where the next meal is coming from. This is one instance where training really does use a behavior that’s natural for your dog!

Since this game encourages wandering and sniffing, most dogs love it and take to it like a duck to water. It’s a variation on “nose work” dog sports. In AKC Scent Work, “dogs search for cotton swabs saturated with the essential oils of Birch, Anise, Clove, and Cypress. The cotton swabs are hidden out of sight in a pre-determined search area, and the dog has to find them. Teamwork is necessary: when the dog finds the scent, he has to communicate the find to the handler, who calls it out to the judge.”

Any Scent Will Do

Torque is ready to play the "Find it!" dog game — Torque’s ready to play the “Find it!” dog game

Unless you’re planning on going into competition with your dog, you don’t have to use those scents. There are commercially-available scent-work kits, but you don’t need the “official” items to get started. In fact, Hope used plain old cotton rounds used for makeup, and some “unofficial” nutmeg essential oil to start playing the game with Torque.

He loved it right away. Like most dogs, Torque has an aggravating habit of sniffing anything and everything in the yard. Finding a game that lets him use that skill, instead of being discouraged from it, was heaven-on-earth to that dog. After all, dogs’ ability to discern odors is thousands of times better than ours. We can’t really know how dogs perceive the world by scent. But we can make the experience richer, useful, and fun for them.

Get Started

Any training game you play with your dog starts with familiarizing the “stuff.” In this case,put a couple drops of the oil on the cotton round. Then hold the round at your dog’s nose level, a few inches away. Unless your dog hates the scent, they will move forward to sniff the round. Dogs just can’t help themselves. They’re compelled to check out new things with their noses.

When your dog sniffs, click and reward, saying “Good Find It!” or whatever phrase you’re going to use. After a few repetitions, your dog will figure out his “job” is to sniff the thing. It’s probably one of the easiest games to teach – especially for dogs who love sniffing.

Hide and Seek

Once your dog associates the smelling with getting rewarded, you can try moving it around. At first, just alternate hands or move one or two steps. If your dog eagerly follows the round, you’re ready to move to the next phase of the game.

At first you’ll “hide” the cotton round in plain sight. If you have another person around, stand with your dog facing away from the area the scent will be hidden. Let your dog sniff it, click and reward, then give it to the other person to “hide.”

If your dog has shown a tendency to want to eat the cotton round, or take it into mouth, have the person put it under something porous enough for the dog to get the scent, like a basket. If you’re using a box, you may have to punch some holes in it at first for the dog to understand the game.

Once the round is hidden in plain sight, a few feet away, turn around with your dog and encourage them to “Find it!” When they do, click and reward.

Degree of Difficulty

As your dog understands the game and becomes more proficient, move the scent higher. Or put it in a covered container. “Containers” is one of the tests for dogs in Scent Work competition, and those are closed, plastic containers. Dogs’ noses are powerful enough to “Find It!” even if it’s buried, outdoors, or even in a vehicle. Scent Work is the basis for the work of law enforcement sniffer dogs. Different circumstances, different smells. But essentially the same kind of game.

If your dog is a sniffing prodigy, you’ll probably enjoy doing Scent Work in competition. There are several different organizations who hold trials. You can see what group is most active in your area and look for classes near you.

The “Find It!” game quickly becomes a favorite for most dogs and people. It’s using the dog’s natural instincts and turning it into a game you can play together. Expand the game to different smells, different places, and different elevations to keep it fresh and fun.

Dogs Get Twitchy, Too

Almost all the dogs in class this week were acting weirdly. Dogs that have known each other for months were acting like they’d never seen each other before. Dogs that have been poky were trotting. It seemed like none of them ever heard the word “Sit!” before. It was one of those nights. Dogs get twitchy.

Full moon syndrome

Somebody asked if there was a full moon. We never checked, but it seemed as good an explanation as any. The weather was good, the room was comfortable, nothing different was happening. But all the dogs got twitchy.

Everybody has an “off” day now and again. Including dogs. Some 2-Minute Training game sessions seem to be done in the blink of an eye. And then there are days that two minutes seems like hours.

What do you do?

Torque stacking rings — Torque trying to stack his rings

If you and your dog, or either one of you, is having an off day, go with it. If it’s “Ring Stacking Game” day, but your dog is grabbing the rings and running off to chew on them, do something else. Maybe a rapid-fire game of Puppy Pushups will get their focus back.

The point is to not persist with something that’s not working. According to Albert Einstein, the definition of insanity is to do something over and over and expect different results.

In dog training, when it happens we call it a “feedback loop.” Your dog does something that’s not right. You say “Let’s try it again” and your dog does it again the same way. Another try results in the same error.

Interrupt the twitches

At this point, your dog is entrenched in a feedback loop and it’s up to you to break the cycle. Move away, play a different game. If your dog persists, and they sometimes do, you can run away, calling your dog.

When you’re in a training class and your dog gets caught in any kind of feedback loop, recognize it and break it. If you need to step out of the room with your dog, tell your instructor your dog needs a break. And take one.

Because most of the dogs in class were twitchy, we made changes to ensure safety. The people changed positions. We structured the exercises in a different order. We all kept careful eyes on the dogs to make sure everyone stayed safe.

Nothing going on

We’ll never know why four of six dogs were twitchy this week. Despite the lack of focus and moodiness, we got lots of practice in. And no one got hurt.

It’s up to you to recognize when your dog is off, out of sorts, moody, or twitchy. Even the most easy-going dog has days like that. Fortunately, this too will pass.

Paw Preference: is Your Dog a Lefty or Righty?

Torque's paw preference is his left when he "taps." — Torque “taps” with his left paw.

Most dogs have a distinct paw preference, just like people. Unlike people, who are disproportionately right-handed, dogs seem to be evenly divided among lefties and righties, with a significant percentage of ambidextrous pups, too. Have you ever noticed whether your dog is a lefty or righty?

How do you know?

There are lots of different ways of figuring it out. And all of them can turn into another training game. The easiest is to have your dog standing and see which paw, left or right, they use for the first step. Or see which paw your dog uses to hold a bone or other chew toy.

Our favorite game to figure out left vs. right dog preference is to stand with your dog a few feet away from a wall. Holding your dog’s collar, toss a treat against the wall. Tell your dog to get the treat and then call your dog back to you. See which way your dog turns, to his/her right or left, to come back to you.

Gather the data

A single repetition won’t tell you anything about your dog’s paw preference. If you use the treat-toss-turn game, repeat at least 10 times to find out your dog’s “laterality” (left or right pawedness). If your dog turns the same way eight times out of ten, you can assume that’s the side your dog prefers.

There doesn’t seem to be any definitive study on “pawedness” in dogs. And it doesn’t really matter all that much. It does let you know which side is “dominant,” which may help you in evening out your training.

Just like people, dogs can over-develop the dominant side. If baseball pitchers didn’t balance their workouts, their dominant (pitching) arm would be huge in comparison to the other. Just like people, dogs also have a two-sided brain. Working the “off” side both physically and mentally, keeps the individual more fit.

Obedience Bias

Booker "heels" at Fran's left side. — Booker “heels” at Fran’s left side.

In most obedience and rally dog sports, the dog is always on the handler’s left side. This practice has ancient roots and goes back to hunters and warriors needing their right (dominant) hand for their weapons. Their dogs were on the left. While the original purpose no longer applies, the dog-on-left habit continues.

Every so often, it’s great to switch things up. Try heeling with your dog on your right. Your dog may be a bit confused at first, so you may want to use a different word than your usual “heel!” We tend to use “Switch!” to get our dogs into heel position on the right.

You may find it a bit awkward to stick to the rule “Always give treats with the hand closest to the dog,” but remember it. You never want your dog crossing in front of you to get the cookie. They could trip you and both could get hurt.

Balanced Training

Be careful! These days dog trainers who use a combination of punishing corrections and treats are calling themselves “balanced” trainers. That’s not what we mean. Balanced training should be doing exercises and playing games on both sides. What your dog can do on one side, try on the other. When we’re playing games where our dogs are going from one side of the room to the other (Ring Stacking, Put Your Toys Away), we switch sides periodically. That way our dogs get used to seeing movement, and keeping on task through distractions.

Surprising laterality

When you’re doing your Perch Work, your dog may find one direction much more difficult than the other. That’s why we do it. Build up your dog’s proficiency on both sides equally to keep them physically fit and mentally acute.

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm.

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more.

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn. — Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.

Does your dog know where his butt is?

Perch work builds dogs’ hind end awareness

Have you ever seen a dog chase its tail – either live or on video? It’s both funny and a little bit sad. Funny because it just is. And sad because most dogs don’t know they have back ends. They lack hind end awareness. They certainly don’t know that the bits back there are able to move independent of the parts up front.

Building hind end awareness and keeping your dog physically fit are two of the best reasons to do “Perch Work” with your dog. It’s also great for teaching tight turns (for Obedience & Rally people), loose-leash walking, and proper heel position. It’s easy to do, doesn’t really need special equipment, and fits easily into a 2-Minute-Dog-Training session. (For more on your dog’s physical fitness and how we can improve it, check out the article, “Wellbeing of dogs – caring for mind and body.”)

What is Perch Work?

Simon, improving his hind end awareness with Perch Work. — Simon doing Perch Work on a feed bucket.

At its simplest, Perch Work means the dog has two feet on an elevated surface. They “perch” on some platform. It can be absolutely anything, but not too high. When introducing Perch Work, you shouldn’t use anything more than two to four inches high. We use a 4-inch step stool, but whatever you have will do. If all you’ve got is a couch cushion – that’s fine. The unstable surface will actually benefit the dog’s core strength.

When introducing your dog to their perch, just put it on the floor and let your dog check it out. Looking at it gets a click & reward. Sniffing it is also good. Pawing at it? Great – click and reward. When your dog has done the same thing (look, sniff, paw) three or four times, wait for something more. One paw on the platform is the next step, then two paws.

Since most dogs don’t understand using their back feet and paws, it’s most likely your dog will perch with front feet first.

Next steps

Perch work is one training game where we do use lures to teach the dog what we want. When your dog has two feet on the perch, start moving. If your dog is facing you, it doesn’t matter which way you go. Show your dog a treat and start moving your feet. If your dog swivels to stay at your front, click and reward. Move a little more and wait for your dog to take a step with his/her back feet. If your dog comes off the perch, just wait. When he/she gets two feet back up, click and reward.

The objective is to get your dog to circle the entire perch, front feet up, back feet moving. It may take a couple of sessions to build up to the entire circle. That’s okay. There’s no rush.

Then do it in the other direction. Both sides need equal exercise and tone. Your dog may favor going one way over the other. Just like people, dogs have a dominant side they tend to favor. Be sure to “work” the other side as well.

Different positions

You should also try for Perch Work with your dog next to you. This is the part that helps with those turns for performance sports.

Whichever side your dog is on, hold the treat in the hand further away, so your dog will curve around you to find it. Then put gentle pressure on the dog by stepping slightly into him/her. This will encourage your dog to move those back feet. Again, be sure to work both directions so your dog’s skills develop evenly.

Back feet next

Whatever your dog does with front feet on the perch, they can do with back feet as well. Since this is a very different idea for most dogs, expect it to go somewhat slower.

The easiest way to get your dog to put back feet on the perch is to have them walk across it and click as soon as the back feet are on and front are off. Most dogs will try to get their back feet off as soon as possible. If you’re in front of the dog, try to block the motion and, if the dog is still on the perch, click and reward.

When your dog is comfortable putting back feet only on the perch, start the same circles around, both directions. Click and reward when your dog moves his back feet on the perch.

Name that Perch Work

Decide on different names for the exercises for front feet and back feet. Very uninspired, we call front skills “Feets” and back skills “Rears.” The dogs know what they’re supposed to do. And as long as they’re getting rewarded, they don’t mind a bit.

Good Dogs Should Always Be Rewarded

We met a woman this week whose two-year-old daughter thinks their dog’s name is “Good Dog!” We laughed about it, but it rings true. This woman is so accustomed to saying “Good Dog!” it could be the dog’s name. It’s not. The dog’s name is actually Miko.

Is there such a thing as too much praise for your dog? Too many treats? Is it possible to play too many games and have too much fun with your dog?

Of course not!

Too much of a good thing

In human terms, can you ever hear too much sincere praise from your boss? Knowing you’re doing well isn’t a reason to stop trying. It’s encouragement to keep going. And maybe even try even more, since you know your efforts are being appreciated.

Simon - a good dog is rewarded. — Simon’s a good dog who’s being rewarded!

It’s very common for people to assume there’s a time limit for rewarding their dog for good behavior. Once their dog is “trained” (as if you’re ever done!), they can stop rewarding. There is no time limit. Throughout your dog’s life, let them know you like what they’re doing. They’re good dogs. And you love them. Just like no human likes being taken for granted, dogs should be appreciated just for being good dogs!

Worried about spoiling

“But I don’t want to ‘spoil’ my dog! He’ll expect treats all the time!”

We hear that a lot, especially from new dog owners.

Realistically, what’s the harm in spoiling your dog? Your dog is never going to have to fend for himself in society. He doesn’t have to be a responsible citizen, get a job, pay rent, vote, drive, or even shop for groceries. Your dog’s one and only “job” is to be a good dog. A much-loved member of the family. Who doesn’t poop on the floor.

And is it really “spoiling” if you’re acknowledging your dog’s respect for the rules you’ve set? If your dog is doing the “job” you’ve assigned, shouldn’t he be paid for a job well done?

Let’s make it about you, instead. You have a job you love. You enjoy the work, your office, your colleagues, even the corporate culture of your workplace. Are you still going to work if you don’t get paid? (There are never too many treats in dog training either!)

Pay your good dogs

Maybe we just need a change in terms. Instead of “rewarding” good behavior, maybe we should just consider it payment for a job well done. After all, a reward sounds like a one-time deal – a single recognition of some achievement. Instead, maybe we should look at treats/playtime/praise as just part of your dog’s regular salary for being a very good dog.