dog training games Archives - 2 Minute Trainer

Dog Training Game- 4 On The Floor

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Dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. Our “job” as dog owners is to make what we want the most rewarding option.

One of the most common rude dog behaviors is jumping on people. For dogs, it gets them exactly what they want: attention. Dogs don’t really care if that attention is yelling at them, or batting at their feet, or even shoving their chest. For your dog, who loves you, any attention you pay to them is wonderful. That’s unconditional love.

Change is hard

To get your dog to stop the behavior, you have to make something else more gratifying than jumping. It’s time to play “4 On The Floor.”

With a bunch of really yummy treats in hand, walk into the room where your dog is hanging out. Get your dog all excited, by whatever means necessary. Talk excitedly, jump around, pretend to throw a ball, whatever gets your dog to perk up and pay attention.

When the dog is standing, lean over very close to your dog and start feeding high-value treats. One after another. Be sure you don’t stand up, you don’t want your vertical motion to trigger your dog’s jumping. Let your dog know the cue for standing there getting fed: “Good 4 On The Floor.” “Nice 4 On The Floor.” “I like your 4 On The Floor.”

Use whatever cue you want for the behavior. We use “4 On The Floor” because it describes what we want and everybody knows what it means. It is longer than most dog cues, so choose one that works for you.

Watch carefully

Your dog may get all excited and start to jump up. If they show signs of jumping, freeze in place. Stop rewarding and wait. If your dog does jump on you, try not to move. Don’t say anything. Ignore the behaviors you don’t want. It’s tough, especially if you have a big, powerful dog. But be patient.

When the rude behavior gets the dog nothing, chances are they’ll go back to what they were doing – standing there and getting treats. As soon as the dog has four feet on the floor, go back to rewarding and praising, giving your dog the cue you’ve decided on.

Dogs catch on quickly

After just a couple of times, your dog should start recognizing the cue “4 On The Floor.” When you’re pretty sure they have the idea, recruit someone the dog knows to help out. If the person is okay with it, have them do exactly the same thing, bending over and repeatedly rewarding. If the person can’t, or won’t, then you bend and reward as long as the dog has “4 On The Floor.”

You’re building a new behavior that the dog will find more rewarding than jumping. They get the attention they crave, as well as many treats, for behaving politely. It becomes the most attractive option for the dog.

Expand the experience

When your dog is pretty good about staying off of people at home, add on by having someone come in the front door. Entries and exits are the most likely times for dogs to jump on people, so it’s up to us to make it normal to greet people with all four feet on the floor.

Once your dog is proficient at entries and exits, it’s tempting to take it for granted. If you completely stop rewarding, the dog will revert to behavior that’s more fun for them. You won’t have to reward every time, or multiple treats all the time. You do have to randomly reinforce good behavior to maintain it. Dogs live in hope that something good is coming their way. If they’re good, make that wish come true. At least every once in a while.

Top 5 Dog Training Tips for 2025

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What’s your mental picture of a well-trained dog? If it’s one of those impressively heel-hugging automatons garnering views on social media, this isn’t the training site for you.

If, on the other hand, you want an awesome companion who knows how to make good decisions, this is the place. The goal here is to teach you and your dog to be a team, whether competing in dog sports or just hanging out watching screens. It may not be an equal partnership. You’re always going to be the one making important life decisions and keeping food on the table (or in the bowl). But you will have an awesome junior partner.

Whatever training games you play, how often you play them, and what behaviors are most important to you, you decide. Keeping these five top dog training tips in mind will keep you on track, whatever your dog goals may be.

Pay your dog

You wouldn’t take a job that doesn’t pay. Don’t expect your dog to “work” for free. When they do something right, a reward lets them know.

The reward doesn’t always have to be food. But you don’t get to decide what’s rewarding to your dog. If you love chocolate, someone giving you a banana isn’t going to cut it. If your dog loves Chicken Heart Treats, a piece of kibble isn’t going to be highly rewarding. Tailor the treat to the dog’s taste.

Shut up

Almost everybody does it and it never works. Saying “Sit!” 12 times instead of once isn’t helpful. By all means encourage your dog and talk to them. But give them time to think and process what you say.

Dogs naturally love patterns. If you always say “Sit!” three times, your dog will think that’s the command. If you say it once and wait for your dog to do it (look at their butt, not their face), they’ll figure it out.

Be consistent

Each word and each hand signal can have only one meaning for your dog. It doesn’t matter what word or motion you use, as long as it’s the same every time you use it.

If you’re teaching your dog “Place!” you can call the “Place!” whatever you want. Our students have used “Mat!” and “Bed!” and assorted other words. Whatever word works for you is fine. But remember what it is and keep it the same.

Be clear

Decide what you want and stick to it. If you say “Sit!” and your dog lies down, don’t accept it. That’s not a “Sit!”

This is more than just being picky. Even if you don’t care whether your dog sits or downs, you’ll confuse your dog if you accept one for the other. They won’t know what either one means.

Half measures aren’t acceptable either. In competitive Obedience and Rally, “Down!” means that the dog’s elbows are on the ground. Setting specific criteria for behaviors actually helps your dog understand.

Have fun

Training is all about having fun with your dog. Play as many training games as you like, but keep each one short and fast. Your dog will look forward to playing with you. If you’re in a lousy mood, playing with your dog will improve your outlook and your day.

You’ll find your dog anticipating training games as the best part of your day. If you play at a specific time every day, your dog will come and find you when it’s time. Those few minutes of focused interaction will be their favorite time, every time. And keeping these 5 dog training tips in mind will help you make the most of every session.

Just for the fun of it – Leg Weaving Game

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There are lots of useful things to teach your dog. The Leg Weaving Game isn’t one of them. It’s just pure, unadulterated fun!

All you need for this game is yourself, your dog, and some treats. That’s it!

What’s Leg Weaving anyway?

There are two ways of playing Leg Weaving.

The simpler version, where the dog does all the work, is stationary. You stand still, legs apart, and your dog walks, trots, or runs in a figure-eight pattern around and between your legs.

The more complex version puts you in motion and your dog going between your legs as you walk. This one takes time to get up to speed. Leg weaving builds on the body awareness exercises we talked about in the Doggy Dressage 2-Minute Tip. There’s potential for a lot of tripping, falling, and kicking your dog if you aren’t careful.

Note: if you play Agility with your dog, you may want to name this game something other than “weaving.” The weave poles are a required obstacle in Agility and once your dog has mastered it, you don’t want to mess it up. Because we train for Agility with our dogs, we call the stationary version “Legs,” and the moving version “Twine.”

Simple Leg Weaving

Have treats in both hands. Stand in front of your dog with your legs apart. The object of the game is for your dog to go between your legs, circle one leg, then the other. It creates a “figure 8” pattern, or an infinity symbol.

Reach behind your leg and show your dog the treat between your legs. Dogs can be reluctant to go under their people, so be sure it’s a really tasty treat and your dog knows you have it. As your dog moves to get the treat, bring your hand around your leg to the front. Don’t go too fast! Move at the pace your dog is going, keeping that tempting morsel right in front of their nose.

When you reach the front, give the dog the treat in that hand, while reach behind and between to show them the treat in the other hand. Do the same thing with the other leg. Draw the dog around your leg and reward in front.

Most dogs catch on to this double-treat behavior really quickly. Some glitches can occur if you move the treat too quickly, switch hands too fast, or pull your hand back before the dog has completed the circle around your leg. Your dog will follow your hand, so be sure your motion reflects where you want your dog to go.

As your dog learns “Legs!” you can increase the speed and reward less frequently. Be sure you say the word for the game as you’re playing. In time, your dog will perform the behavior when you use the cue word.

Get Moving

Leg Weaving in motion, or “Twine” is more complicated. Have treats in both hands. With your dog sitting at your side, step forward with the leg opposite to the dog. If your dog is on the right, step out with your left leg. Show the dog the treat with your left hand between your legs. Draw the dog forward and between your legs. Again, don’t move your hand faster than your dog is moving. Make sure they’ve reached your other side before you reward.

When the dog is on the other side (left, in this scenario), step out with your right leg and, with your right hand, show the dog a treat between your legs. Get them to move between your legs and reward when they’re completely on your right side. Rinse and repeat – as many times as you like.

Here’s Simon and Fran.

Stutter step

Don’t go too fast too soon. You may lose your balance, kick your dog, or get completely tangled up. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with sticking to the simpler version – especially if you have a tall dog. This is one of the few games where smaller dogs have a distinct advantage, although all of our students have been able to do it. Even the ones with Great Danes.

Have more fun with your dog!

Dog Training Game: Which Bucket

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When we were kids, our mom worked in Downtown Chicago, in the Loop. During the summer, we would take the “El” into the city to meet her for lunch at the Veranda Room in Marshall Field’s department store. No, there were no dogs there. What was at Field’s, above the first floor cosmetics department, was a magnificent mosaic ceiling, designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Why this trip down memory lane? Because it gave us great joy to stand in the cosmetics department and stare up at the ceiling made of more than a million pieces of iridescent glass. When our necks got tired, we’d look back to ground level and realize that everybody around us was staring up at the ceiling, too. People do that. If you really look at something, everyone around you will stop and look.

So will dogs. And that’s how you start playing the “Which Bucket?” game with your dog.

Variation on a theme

Quite a few of the games we play with our dogs involve them retrieving something and putting it someplace else – the Ring Stacking Game, for one. It’s also the nuts-and-bolts of “Put Your Toys Away.”

The dog only has one place to put whatever it is.

But what if there were two? Or more? And what will the dog do if both containers are identical? or different? All of these options are ways to refresh any “put it away” game. If you just want to add a fun challenge to your game, use any variation and let your dog have fun.

Directed aim

If you want to use the game to strengthen your training connection with your dog, try directing your dog to a specific container. There are a couple ways of doing this. The first is to just look at the container you want your dog to use. Just like staring at the mosaic ceiling, pretend that it’s the most fascinating thing you’ve ever seen in your life. Bend over, get as close as you can.

Keep up a dialogue with your dog. Encourage them, talk to them. Invite them over to check out the neato-keeno container. Remind them to bring the toy/ring/block with them. Talk to your dog and project some enthusiasm and energy. Dogs respond to the atmosphere in the room, so make it fun.

Point it out

The other way to direct your dog to the bin you want them to drop the object in is to point at it. We’ve talked about how some dogs naturally follow a point. For others, it’s a learned skill. But all dogs are capable of it – it’s been part of Obedience competition for years.

Put the two containers out and sit on the floor about equal distance from each one. Bring a bunch of objects you want your dog to put away. We used the dive rings from our ring-stacking game. Hand one of the objects to your dog and point, with one hand or both, to the container you want the dog to put it in. Be sure you also look where you want your dog to go, not at your dog. Facing your dog always stops them. Looking where you want them to go gives them direction.

When the dog moves away from you, toward the container you indicated, celebrate! You’ve just opened another line of communication with your best friend.

Are you a dog-control freak?

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How much of a control freak are you with your dog?

As the dog trainer associated with a doggy day care facility, the staff sometimes asks Hope to consult with a dog owner that has some issues in the play group.

Not long ago, she talked to the owner of a dog that was, putting it mildly, inappropriate with other dogs and staffers at day care. While the play supervisors had repeatedly mentioned the problems to the owner, the dog’s person dismissed their concerns.

Not a fun phone consult

The dog repeatedly charged at and nipped other dogs, even staff, trying to get somebody to play with her. They weren’t casual invitations, and the dog wouldn’t take “No!” for an answer. The dog clearly had no idea of manners.

When Hope finally was able to speak with the owner, his answer was “She always does what I tell her.”

And that, right there, is the problem. If you always tell your dog what to do, what happens when you’re not there?

Banned from daycare

This particular owner clearly had no interest in training his dog to learn impulse control or manners. He thought it was adequate “training” that she obeys him. It didn’t concern him that the rest of his family couldn’t get the dog to obey. It didn’t bother him that the dog has no manners in day care and doesn’t listen to the staff. The dog was banned from play groups.

The kind of blind obedience this man requires from his dog may suit him. Decades ago it may even have been the norm to be a dog control freak. Now, it’s not good enough.

Giving up control

Letting your dog exercise some autonomy makes life easier. Teaching them to make good decisions, giving them credit for controlling their impulses, frees you to enjoy your time together. It’s stressful to always be the one making every choice for everybody.

There’s no helping the control-freak man. We tried, and were unable to convince him of the benefits both he and his dog would experience. His repeated response was “She does what I tell her.”

We agree that it’s easier to just tell your dog what to do. A friend of ours had major difficulty guiding her dog into making good decisions, rather than telling her all the time. This particular dog has major confidence issues. Both dog and person felt safer with the owner giving orders all the time. But that wasn’t helping the dog’s timidity.

Confidence boost

It’s scary ceding control to another being. But, with children and dogs, letting them make good decisions boosts their confidence. When your dog knows what’s expected of them, even when faced with unfamiliar situations, they’re more likely to demonstrate good judgment.

It’s hard giving up control and allowing the possibility of mistakes. It helps the dog’s confidence when errors are overlooked rather than punished. They try, and try again, mostly because it’s fun to finally get it right.

We couldn’t help the day care dog. Our friend, on the other hand, won High In Trial in Obedience with her dog last weekend. Patience pays.

Dog Training Game: Put On Your Collar

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There’s one training game we use each and every day, multiple times each day. It’s not particularly exciting, or fun. But it has saved us a ton of aggravation. That’s “Put On Your Collar.”

It’s a simple thing. Just getting the dogs to stand still while we put on their collars or harnesses. Our dogs tend to be backer-uppers. When we approach them, they back up. Which is fine, as long as we’re trying to get somewhere. When we’re getting ready for a walk, it’s not so great. We would grab their collars from the wall hooks and, instead of coming near for us to put it on, they’d back up.

It’s not like they don’t want to go out. Unless it’s pouring rain, they’re all eager to explore the great outdoors. But they’re reluctant to have their outside “clothes” on. Truthfully, we don’t know how common the issue is because we’ve never really talked about it with either our training club buddies or our students. We suspect it’s fairly common, but have no proof.

Born of necessity

We were tired of chasing the dogs around to get collars on. It’s not like any of them object to wearing collars. They were just excited to go out. Which, especially with Boston Terriers, means they start doing zoomies around the house. A house which has a circular path through the rooms, making it impossible to catch a zooming Boston.

A word of warning: Don’t start training “Put On Your Collar” when you have somewhere to go by a certain time. It’s a patience game. Yours may be tested to the extreme.

Lots of waiting

Most people have a phrase they use to let their dogs know it’s time to go for a walk. Around here it’s “chewannagwout?” which starts a stampede for the door. Our dogs’ collars and leashes (hooked together) are on coat hooks by the door.

To start playing “Put On Your Collar,” just pick up your dog’s collar, open it, and hold it out. The goal is for your dog to come to you, stretch their neck out over the collar, and wait for you to fasten it.

The hardest part is waiting for your dog to do it. Don’t move. If you take steps toward your dog, they’ll back up. That’s the “Keep Away” game, even if it’s only a step at a time.

Your dog has to come near enough for you to fasten their collar. Say “Collar!” and hold it out. If they don’t, within a few seconds, just hang the collar/leash back on the hook. And do not lure your dog to come closer. It has to be their idea.

Our dogs just about melted down when the collars went back on the hooks. If yours does, too, pick up the collar, open, and hold it out again.

Be willing to do this multiple times over your short training session. Since you probably won’t make it out the door the first time, make sure your dog doesn’t have to eliminate before you start.

Reward every tiny step

It shouldn’t be too long before your dog actually hovers with their neck over the collar. Reward that little step. If your dog is truly reluctant, start rewarding them for staying in the vicinity, rather than running off. Small steps turn into complete behaviors. Reward for staying, for extending their neck, for waiting until the collar is fastened.

Be sure you use the word “Collar!” or whatever word you choose. Dogs like knowing what’s going on and familiar words and actions enhance communication.

When you return home after your walk, use “Collar!” again to take it off. Build the association between the object and the word. If you use a harness instead of a collar, the progression is the same. Reward for coming close, staying there, and every step involved in putting on the harness. You’ll use this behavior multiple times every week, if not daily. It’s worth the patience it takes to teach.

Knowing Isn’t Doing: Why Your Dog Training Fails

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It’s a sinking feeling when you’re watching your dog training student get out of the car and get dragged across the street to class by her dog. Especially when it’s the last class session.

Not one to hold back, we asked Cheryl if she’d been practicing her Pattern Walking, and how the dog, Katy, was doing with it.

Imagine our surprise when Cheryl told us that Katy was really good at it.

Next question: “Why aren’t you using it?”

Answer: “I didn’t think of it.”

Knowing and doing

Almost every training game we teach has a practical purpose. Which we explain along with the mechanics of the game.

None of it does any good if you don’t use it. One of the subtler goals of 2-Minute Training is for you to get in the habit of training. Just a couple of minutes, whenever you have them. Treat containers in every room. Talking to your dog, expecting them to listen and be happy to play with you.

None of it works if you don’t use it

Raise your expectations

Your dog already loves playing with you. They love those couple minutes of attention. And they’re probably using what they know, if you expect them to.

It’s all about building good habits as a dog owner. When it’s time to go for a walk, expect your dog to come and sit for their collar and leash. Until they do, nobody’s going anywhere.

You don’t chase them around the house. You tell them what you’re doing. “Wanna go out? Good! Sit! Good! Collar!” And hold it open, ready for them to extend their neck and hold still. If you enforce the rules every single time, your dog will abide by them, every single time.

Stick to routines

Cheryl’s going to establish a routine for getting out of the car. Katy must wait for her release word to get out of the car. She has to wait for permission to go. And she has to walk politely as she’s been taught. Not pull like a tractor.

It’s totally Cheryl’s fault. If she doesn’t expect her dog to behave politely, and teach her what that means, she deserves what she gets. None of it works if you don’t use it.

Training games are designed to be fun. You’re supposed to have a good time interacting with your dog. But it’s up to you to use the games to make life with your dog easier for both of you.

Your Dog’s “Reactivity” is Just Exuberance: Time to Learn “Touch!”

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We heard from a long-time friend this week, reaching out for training after acquiring a new dog. We actually met her at our dog training club, so we know she knows how dog training works. But, like anyone with a new dog, there’s so much to teach it can get a bit overwhelming.

No matter how many dogs you’ve owned, it’s always a good idea to either take class or follow guidance from an expert. We always take new family dogs to somebody else’s class. It helps you focus on the things that are important and set your priorities.

First things first

Our friend’s new-to-her dog is a four-year-old French Bulldog retired from the show ring. We also know the breeder of the dog, so know that she’s had a great life. Her issues at the moment are pretty common for a retired show dog. She’s fine in big, noisy, crowded venues. But she has no idea how to act on a walk around the neighborhood.

The dog is, in our friend’s words, “ is dog and people reactive when we are out in the neighborhood.” Further questions revealed that the dog is noisy and overly-excited, but not aggressive. That description could apply to at least half the dogs out there.

Side Note: Watch your language

Unfortunately, while we’re all using the word “reactive” correctly here, it’s time to stop using it to describe your dog. The outside world interprets “reactive” as aggressive. Because the meaning has been changed, unless your dog truly is a biter or fighter, don’t use it. People hearing it, even some trainers, will make assumptions about your dog that may escalate the situation. Excitement isn’t aggression. Barking isn’t aggression. Reactivity is now synonymous with aggression.

We tell our training classes to use “excited” or “exuberant” to describe their dogs instead. It conveys joy and happiness, rather than anything darker.

Action plan

The first training game we’re going to play with our friend’s dog is “Touch!” It’s the most useful game for getting your dog’s focus back on you and away from whatever is causing them to misbehave. Before you use it this way, the dog has to love the game. It doesn’t take long for dogs to learn it and love it. If you start today, in three days your dog will be nose-bopping like crazy.

The next part of using “Touch!” out in the wild requires a bit of effort from you. If your dog has already spotted something fascinating, it’s too late. Even if your dog adores the game, it can’t compete with squirrel watching. You have to keep scanning the area, trying to locate possible trouble spots before your dog sees them. As soon as you do, move backwards a step or so, stick out your hand and say “Touch!” The added benefit is that you start moving away from the distraction. With luck, your dog will never know they missed the bunny running across your path.

Big Dreams, Small Steps: The Secret to Dog Training

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There are big, beautiful dreams to achieve in dog training: “I want my dog to be a Rally Obedience Champion.”

There are also lovely little dreams: “I want my dog to greet my holiday guests politely.”

You and your dog can achieve whatever goals you want. Both of those dreams are achievable. The key is recognizing that every little step, every two-minute training game, is taking you closer to the prize.

Destination is motivation

Aiming for a specific goal gives you a reason to find time for training. It’s also a yardstick to measure your progress. It helps to set a deadline for yourself.

While playing training games with your dog is always fun, adding a bit of pressure to achieve a goal makes it more likely you’ll do it. Everyone’s schedule is crammed with things we have to do. It’s important to carve out some time for the things you want to do as well.

Set up for success

Say you’re hosting a gathering in a month and want to show off your dog’s new trick – “Shake Hands.”

The first step is planning for a few mini-training sessions every day. At your dog’s meal time, use the first five pieces of food for training treats. Set up containers of training treats everywhere in the house you spend time. Use commercial breaks, waiting for your popcorn to pop, or even bathroom breaks as training opportunities. That destination is motivation for you and your dog to keep up the short training sessions.

Unexpected benefits

Your relationship with your dog will change if you make tiny training sessions part of everyday life. They’ll listen better, be happier, and become more confident. Shared communication will improve. And you’ll make great strides in achieving both big and little dreams.

When we start a new session of classes, we always ask our students what they hope to achieve in the class. The nebulous goal we hear most often is “a well-behaved dog.” Which looks different to everyone. Set specific goals and you’ll achieve not only that target, but the fuzzy “good dog” one as well.

There’s no wrong way

Your dog training journey will be filled with both triumphs and hiccups. No path toward a goal is always smooth. You may even find that your original goal becomes unimportant.

That’s all okay. Dog training, in short, fast, fun bursts, is really all about having a great relationship with your dog and having fun together. Making it a habit will benefit both of you. Your dog will get the biggest life. And you’ll have the best dog.

Dog Training Game “Stomp”

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“Stomp!” evolved from our involvement in the Dolphin Research Center in Grassy Key, Florida. One of the cognition studies we saw in action was getting the dolphins to “imitate” what another dolphin was doing. The first dolphin was given a specific behavior to perform, like a circle spin. The second was instructed to “imitate.” The trainer never asked the second dolphin to do a circle spin, just to do what the first dolphin did.

Dog And A Dolphin

Much of modern-day dog training can be traced back to Karen Pryor’s ground-breaking book “A Dog & A Dolphin,” so we’ve always figured anything a dolphin can do, a dog can do, too.

Coming up with new training games is part planning, part evolution, and part learning to follow where the dogs lead. Sometimes it doesn’t work out. Our attempts at color discrimination haven’t panned out. Every once in a while we come up with a new idea and try it again. But it’s been shoved to the back burner.

We started thinking of ways to translate the dolphins’ imitation behavior to dogs. We’ve seen many instances where dogs learn by watching each other. And we know that our body language matters – a lot. But would they imitate us, too?

Give it a shot

Teaching our dogs to “Stomp!” was as simple as having them stand in front of us and alternately stomping our feet. At its core, it’s marching in place, with an audience of one – your dog.

As soon as they lift a paw, name it and reward it! You can call it whatever you like: March!, Stomp!, High-Stepping!. What’s crucial is the timing. It’s important to mark the behavior and immediately reward it.

That’s really all there is to the dog training game “Stomp!” Demonstrate it for your dog. Invite them to join the party. Once they understand the goal of the game, you can stretch out the rewards so they continue “Stomping!”

Copying what people do

Dogs will copy what their people do. The recent social media “Hands In Challenge” proved that dogs with little or no other training would imitate their people’s actions. Try it for yourself. The videos are mostly adorable. Whatever their dogs can do, yours can, too!