dog training games Archives - 2 Minute Trainer

Greetings Game: Statue and Fuss

We call the Greetings Game “Statue and Fuss.” That describes the people’s assignment, not the dog’s. It’s up to the humans to demonstrate what happens when the dog jumps (Statue) vs. sits (Fuss).

The vast majority of dogs are happy to see you. They love meeting people. Dogs will offer an enthusiastic welcome even if you’ve only been gone two minutes. Exuberant dogs reach a level of excitement that has them, literally, bouncing off the walls, the floor, the furniture, and you.

Most people don’t really like dogs jumping on them. They’ll tell you it’s okay, but you know it’s really not. The problem is getting your dog to clue in on that, too.

Imposing polite

One of the reasons this behavior is hard to extinguish is that you may not get a lot of cooperation from other people. When they’re puppies, dogs are incredibly cute, small, and fairly harmless. People like having little puppies say hello to them. Most people will even override your wishes, insisting “It’s okay. I want to say hi!”

Enforcing your training protocols when other people are around takes a lot of fortitude and a willingness to seem rude. If people ask “May I pet your puppy?” (most won’t bother to ask) and you say “Not if he’s jumping on you,” most people will stampede right over what you say and reach for your bouncing, wiggling, adorable dog. Don’t let them.

That’s easier said than done. But every violation of the protocol you set means a step back in training. That’s one of the reasons teaching polite greetings takes time.

Statue and Fuss

The Greetings Game requires that you set it up with a trusted person. Don’t play the game in public before your dog has a pretty thorough understanding. It’ll just be frustrating for both of you.

Depending on how nutsy crazy your dog is to meet people, you have a couple of options for the setup.

If your dog is a wildly excited jumping fool, don’t start with a doorbell and someone coming into the house. Have your dog on collar and leash and have your helper come into the room and walk up to you and your dog. Instruct the person not to look at the dog, pet the dog, or interact with the dog in any way.

When the person comes over to you, do not tell your dog to sit. The dog has to learn to make a good decision. Don’t make it for them. They have to find out on their own what will get them what they want.

If the dog is jumping and being generally manic, your helper person should stand there, arms folded, staring at the wall behind you or the ceiling. When the dog sits, or at least has four paws on the ground, the helper should immediately fuss over the dog, pet the dog, and talk to the dog. And be ready to instantly stop if the dog jumps. In mid-word, if necessary, revert to “statue” mode. Stop, fold arms, stare at ceiling.

The alternating statue/fuss will demonstrate to the dog what they need to do to get what they want. Dogs get what they want (attention) when we get what we want (manners).

Not quite so nutsy

If your dog is exuberant but not over-the-top, you can play the same game of Statue and Fuss, but start with someone entering the house, not just the room. When your dog starts remembering to sit when someone comes in, you can add the next level of thrill – the doorbell.

There will, inevitably, be incidents where the person slips up and fusses over the dog when they should be a statue. It’s hard to resist giving attention to a being that so clearly adores you. That’s why it takes a while to build the habit of polite greetings.

When you embark on teaching your dog polite greetings, be sure that everyone in the house is in on it. If you’re trying to teach your dog to make good decisions and your partner is dragging the dog off people, it’s not going to work. Everyone has to be willing to play Statue and Fuss. Do everyone a favor and make sure your dog’s nails are short and smooth before you start. Statues take a bit of a mauling when you start playing the game.

Let your dog look

Ever heard the quote from Robert Heinlein’s Lazarus Long “Never attempt to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and annoys the pig.” ? There’s a lot of wisdom in choosing to fight only the battles you have a chance of winning. You can’t start playing training games, or do any kind of training, unless you have your dog’s attention. And you’ll never get their focus on you if you expect them to laser-focus on you and ignore other dogs, people, treats, etc. Do yourself a favor. Stop fighting a losing battle. Let your dog look.

Face the distraction

One of the most futile things everyone does in training class is try to turn their dogs away from whatever’s attracting their attention. It’s not going to work. It’s just going to divide your dog’s attention – they know they should be listening to you. But there’s a dog over there! Or a person walking! Or a Squirrel!

Dogs are hard-wired to notice motion. That’s a common trait among all predators. It’s not something you can change, nor should you. Instead of trying to fight your dog’s instinct, work with it. Don’t try to get your dog to ignore the distraction. Let them face it. You move between the dog and the distractor. Let them watch. Don’t let them get closer. You don’t let them check it out. Just let them look.

At some point they’ll look back at you. That’s when you pounce! Give them a treat, a toy, a big, fat, juicy reward for focusing on you. That’s when it’s your job to be more interesting than anything else around.

Isn’t that letting the dog win?

It’s not a contest. You and your dog are a team. Neither of you is trying to beat the other. In this case, you may have to concede, for a minute or two, that your dog finds watching whatever it is more rewarding than paying attention to you. So you let that distraction become familiar.

An old saw says “Familiarity breeds contempt.” That’s what we’re going for. When your dog comes to the realization that playing with you is more fun, interesting, and rewarding than staring at the dog across the room, that’s when you both win. You want your dog to become familiar with the world around them. Then they can successfully ignore it and focus on you.

A pivotal decision

The first meeting of a new dog training class is always loud and a bit chaotic. That’s because everything is new and different to every one of the dogs. By the next class, and certainly by the third, the dogs are accustomed to the routine and calm prevails.

When your dog is obsessing over something over there, it can be frustrating. You know there’s nothing interesting. But there’s no way to explain that to your dog. This is one of those times when you muster your strength for the hardest part of dog training – waiting. You don’t repeat things your dog isn’t listening to. You don’t wave a cookie in their face. Initially, you don’t do anything but wait.

Your stillness may prove more interesting to your dog than all the gyrations you’ve tried before. Because you’ve never done nothing to attract your dog’s attention. You’ve tried everything else, now it’s time to do something that might actually work.

Let your dog look, and then look back at you

Your dog may think you’re broken, because the pattern they’re used to isn’t there. When they finally do check in with you, praise and reward lavishly. Your dog will think it’s a pretty good deal if all they have to do is look at you to get a jackpot. Next time you wait for your dog’s attention will be shorter. In time, the distractions will get a glance and you’ll get the dog’s attention.

Play the hard training games

Remember when you were in school and there were classes you loved, classes that were okay, and those you loathed? Your dog’s version of school is playing training games with you. There are some games they love. And others that they have a hard time with. If you want your dog to live up to their full potential, you have to play the hard training games.

Fortunately, even if you play the tough ones every day, it’s only a couple minutes at a time. The agony will soon be over. And one day, probably sooner than you’d expect, it will suddenly click for your dog and that impossible game becomes a favorite. That’s the way it happens.

Dark, dark, dark, dark. Light Bulb!

A great example is Hope’s French Bulldog Torque learning the “Send Away Sit” (#306) sign in Rally. When you come to the sign, you and your dog stop. The dog sits. Then you tell your dog to go to a pylon or cone which is about six feet away (the Send Away part). You tell your dog to “Sit!”

For the longest time, Torque didn’t understand it at all. Hope tried everything: a target near the pylon, a mat, throwing a treat or a toy. Torque just was not getting it. He wouldn’t go far enough, or too far. He wouldn’t sit, or moved away to sit.

It’s not like Hope pounded away at it. She’d try for a couple minutes about every other week or so. While each little session was a bit frustrating, the failure wasn’t allowed to color all of their training games. Then, after a few months of occasionally trying, it clicked. Now Torque gets it perfectly every time. It took a while, but once it did, it stuck like glue.

If it matters, keep trying

Not everybody has competition goals. Mastering a particular Rally skill may not be on your radar. That’s okay. There are everyday behaviors that are difficult for dogs, yet vital for everyday life. Jumping on people is a good example. If your dog’s idea of saying “Hi! I love you!” is to jump on someone, that’s a problem. If they’ve been doing it for a while, it may take a while to fix. But it’s worth it. Polite greetings require dogs to think, to suppress their impulses, to make good choices.

Just because something is difficult doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing. When you were a child, was it easy to learn how to ride a bicycle? Or tie your shoelaces? Did your friends or siblings have an easier time than you did? There were also things that you understood faster and more easily than they did.

Lean into the hard stuff

It’s unfortunately an absolute truth that the training games your dog understands least are the most important ones to play. This week we introduced the impulse-control game “Whatcha Gonna Do?” in our puppy class. One of the puppies got it in no time. It was almost like he’d been waiting for a chance to shine. Another puppy, who had far exceeded the first in every other game, had a terrible time. During class he showed no sign of understanding at all. And that’s the game we recommend his people play the most.

Almost all of the training games are designed to teach your dog skills that make your life together easier, happier, and more fun. Playing some of them may seem pointless when your dog just isn’t catching on. Dog training isn’t a steady upward climb. There are dips and angles, triumphs and failures. Overall, the trajectory is upwards. The training game your dog finds impossible now will be puppy’s play in a few weeks.

Keeping your sessions fast, fun, and short means there’s always another chance to have fun with your dog. If you play three training games a day (just about 15 minutes), there will be a major difference in your dog’s behavior and understanding in just a couple weeks. Prove it to yourself. Take video of a session with a difficult training game today. Play that game a couple times a week for a month. After that month, take another video and compare. The evidence of progress will be right before your eyes.

Teach a release word

Many people neglect to teach a release word to their dogs. If you don’t, how does your dog know it’s time to stop what they’re doing?

All good stories have three parts; a beginning, a middle, and an end. Dog behaviors or tricks are the same. Each should have the same three parts. Most people do fine teaching the beginning. They understand that a good set-up and focus is crucial.

The middle is sometimes trickier. Rather than teaching the dog to keep doing what it’s doing, they’ll constantly repeat the command. “SitSitSit.” And when they stop saying it, the dog thinks it’s done.

Rarely do we encounter people who emphasize the end, the Release Word. It’s the clearest way to signal that it’s time to move on.

Stop and Go

It doesn’t really matter what word you choose for a Release Word. Many people use “Free” or “Okay” or “Go.” We tend to recommend a word your dog doesn’t hear constantly (like okay). Trainers debate about this all the time. Some are convinced their dogs can discriminate between a command and normal conversation. Others think using a common word is a mistake. You should use a word you can remember and all family members will use.

Release words are most often used in conjunction with the “Stay!” After all, for every “stop” there should be a “go.” If you don’t teach your dog when it’s okay to stop staying, they’ll decide for themselves and the “Stay!” loses meaning.

Steps for teaching the Release Word

Start with the “Stay!” Get your dog to sit, either in front of you or at your side. Holding a treat, bring your hand up to your ear and slowly lower it toward your dog. If your dog moves any paw or their butt, bring the treat back up quickly. They are allowed to move their head or tail only.

If your dog doesn’t move, when your hand is lowered to your dog’s level, give them the treat. Repeat this about three or four times.

Here’s where the Release Word comes in. Don’t move – use exactly the same motion and posture you had for the “Stay!” part. This time, stop your hand’s downward motion slightly above your dog’s head. You want your dog to have to move to get the treat.

When your motion stops, say your dog’s Release Word and wait for them to hop up to get the treat. Don’t move and don’t repeat. Just wait for your dog to move on their own. If you want your dog to understand what a Release Word means, you have to let them figure it out. When they hear “Free!” It means they can move.

It takes patience

The Release Word is pretty easy for most dogs to understand. The hard part is pairing it with other behaviors. You can also use it for “Place!” And it makes a good ending for any other training game, like Puppy Push-ups, or Perch Work.

You don’t always need to use a Release Word. In the “Recall” exercise, you leave your dog in a “Stay!” and walk away. When you get to the other side of the ring, you call your dog to you. In this case, the new command (Come) tells your dog it’s time to do something else and you don’t need to double up with the Release Word.

Whenever you play training games with your dog, think about the beginning, middle, and end. It’s a story you and your dog will enjoy.

Check in with your partner

You may be the one who pays the rent, buys the food, and sets the thermostat. You may even consider yourself the superior partner in your relationship with your dog. But that doesn’t mean you get their unwavering attention 24/7. Depending on the individual dog, it may come close. But you still have to check in with your partner.

All dog training is a partnership and a bargain you make with your dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a pretty good deal, if you look at it that way. But you still can’t take it for granted.

Graphic example

Before every exercise in competition Obedience, the judge asks “Are you ready?” We simulate this in our classes, asking every student before every exercise. Newcomers in the class will, just like in competition, meet our eyes, smile, and say “Ready!”

No, they’re not. It’s usually one of the first opportunities we have to yell at our students. It may be polite to look someone in the eye when you’re talking to them. If you’re at the start line, ready to compete with your dog, forget polite. Before you answer, check with your dog. If the dog meets your eyes and is paying attention, you can answer ready. If they’re not, you get to say, “Not yet!” and engage your dog before you answer “Ready!”

Even with beginners

We also teach Puppy and Beginner classes. The biggest issue, especially in the first class session, is getting the dogs to focus on their people. Expecting them to ignore the new place, new people, and other dogs is asking a lot.

That’s why we start with the super-fun game Puppy Push-ups. Most dogs know at least one of the three positions (Sit, Stand, Down). So we start with a fast, fun game that has the dog paying attention and lots of rewards. The faster they switch position, the more treats come their way. It also helps that most people automatically stand in front of their dogs and block their view of distractions.

Keep their focus

The best definition of a “well socialized dog” is one who can be comfortable enough in any situation to pay attention to their person. Dogs are allowed to check out their surroundings. They can look around, even sniff intriguing scents. They also check in with their person regularly.

You should return the courtesy. Before you start something new, let your dog know what’s happening. If you’ve played the Name Game, all it should take to get their attention is saying their name. Once you have their focus, begin.

When you practice loose-leash walking, don’t just start moving. If your dog isn’t paying attention, the leash is immediately tight. Set yourself and your dog up for success. Get their attention. Say “Let’s go” or something to let them know something’s going on.

Surprises are bad

Once in motion, get in the habit of checking in with your dog when you’re about to stop or change directions. Can you imagine what it feels like to be walking with a friend and they constantly tug on your sleeve, or your shirt collar, to guide you? It’d be uncomfortable and intrusive. Why couldn’t they just say “this way!”

Don’t let the leash be your means of communication with your dog. Tell them. Use your voice and meet their eyes. Your dog wants to be with you. Check in with your partner and tell them where you’re going.

Walk Around Your Dog Training Game

Dogs like to be where the action is. Preferably right in front of you and able to watch everything that’s going on. Most of the time, that’s fine. It only becomes a problem for most people when they’re on the move and the dog insists on being in the path. The best example we’ve heard is when you’re trying to carry the boiling pasta pot from the stove to the sink. The dog, of course, is in the middle of the kitchen, right in your path. And, as you try to get around them, they have to move so they can see every move you make. Every step you take. They’ll be watching you. That’s when the Walk Around Your Dog training game is extremely helpful.

Most dogs don’t realize that they’re perfectly capable of watching without moving. It’s almost as if they can’t figure out what necks are for and turning their heads never even occurred to them. One of the Beginner Novice Obedience exercises is to put your dog in a “Sit/Stay!” in the center of the ring, leave them, and walk around the entire perimeter of the ring. When the exercise was first introduced, many experienced competitors considered it more difficult than the old five-minute out-of-dog’s sight stay.

One of the things to look for when teaching this kind of rock-solid stay is your dog’s head flip. When you start moving behind your dog, do they get up to follow your motion? Or, as you pass behind them, do they flip their head from one side to the other to watch you? The head flip is a good indication the dog knows what they’re supposed to be doing. And they might even do it.

A step at a time

Before you start playing the game, it’s a good idea to assess how far around you can get. Many dogs get up as soon as their person gets to their shoulder. Others are non-starters. If the person moves, they move. Still others will let you get to about their hips before they start swiveling around.

It’s important to note here that dogs are absolutists. They only understand “yes” or “no.” There’s no “maybe” or “sometimes” with dogs. That means any motion, other than the dog’s head or tail, means the dog doesn’t understand “Stay!” You’re not being mean, or too picky by not accepting less-than-perfect stays. You’re actually making it easier for your dog to understand what you want. If you accept a “sort of” behavior from your dog, your dog will never really know what you really want.

Start by getting a treat and holding it at your dog’s nose. Leave your hand exactly where it is as you try to step around your dog. Your hand doesn’t move. You also don’t actually give the dog the treat. See how far around your dog you can go.

If you get all the way around, that’s great! Give your dog the treat. Then try it with your dog by your side instead of in front.

Baby steps

If you didn’t get all the way around, you’re with most people. The vast majority of dogs start moving as soon as their people do. Start again, taking it much slower. If you can’t get anywhere, just stand in front of your dog, treat almost on their nose. Lean or sway to the side, back and forth. If your dog holds steady, give them the treat and start again. This time, move one foot slightly. Build slowly, one little bit of motion at a time. This is hard for dogs – you’re fighting against their instinct to always be in front of you. Reward for the tiniest bit of progress. Show your dog they’re getting it right.

You don’t always have to go the same way around your dog. In Obedience and Rally your dog is always on your left, so you always go counter-clockwise around your dog. That’s not necessary in everyday life. However, we always tell our competition students not to “fix it” when their dogs mess up. Move just a couple steps away and start over. That way the dog doesn’t incorporate the “fix” into the behavior.

It’ll come eventually

The “Walk Around Your Dog” can take quite a while to communicate to your dog. It’s one of those behaviors that your dog doesn’t seem to understand at all. And then, possibly weeks later, all of a sudden they get it and it’s rock solid.

Don’t hammer away at “Walk Around Your Dog.” Visit the game a couple of times a week and be satisfied adding a step at a time. Be sure to heavily reward any progress. Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. Getting it right, especially when it’s difficult, has to be significantly different from wrong. A jackpot for any incremental progress is a good idea.

Testing it out

We’re always putting our dogs’ “Walk Around Your Dog” to the test. With a small house and four dogs, you’re always trying to walk around somebody. It helps a lot if only one being is in motion at a time.

When to stop rewarding the dog

Dog training students always want to know when they can stop rewarding dogs. The answer’s easy. When you don’t care if the dog keeps doing whatever it is.

If you don’t care if your dog sits automatically when you stop moving, stop rewarding it.

If you don’t mind if your dog jumps on guests, stop rewarding polite greetings.

If it doesn’t matter that your dog eliminates outside, stop rewarding the dog.

Stuck forever

On the other hand, if you like what your dog is doing and want them to keep doing it, the rewards have to keep going. You won’t always need treats available in all rooms at all times. But you do have to acknowledge your dog’s good behavior somehow.

The form that takes depends on your dog. If your dog likes jaw scratches, do that. If a hearty “Good Girl!” makes their butt wiggle, use that. But if your dog has a “show me the money” personality, you’d better fork over the goods.

Keep in mind that dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. You can believe as hard as you want that your dog should “know better” by now. But if every instance is a decision-making process, you want the dog’s choice to land on the side of the angels. There’s nothing wrong with stacking the deck to make sure that happens.

Dashing down the stairs

Our dogs all love playing training games. Our morning routine includes a trip down the stairs to the basement training space. Consequently, our dogs all love going downstairs. For a very long time, Simon would dash down the stairs whenever the door opened. Even if we were just reaching for a coat on the stairway coat hooks.

It took some time and effort to convince Simon that he wasn’t supposed to bolt down the stairs as soon as the door opened. We took the time and effort to set the situation up, teaching him to sit, wait, and move only when he heard his release word. In the beginning, the “Sit!” got a food reward. So did the “Wait.” For Simon, the release word means he gets to do what he wants – go downstairs. That’s the reward for good behavior. The food reward isn’t necessary.

He doesn’t always get to go downstairs. Sometimes we’re just reaching for that jacket. Our hand on the doorknob is his cue to “Sit!” and “Wait!” We can now open that door whenever we need to. Simon sees a hand on the doorknob and sits. He waits until we close the door again and give him a treat. We acknowledge his good decision with a reward. If we didn’t, there’d be no reason for him to keep doing it. Going downstairs is extremely rewarding for him. The alternative has to be as attractive.

Encouraging good decisions

A reward, whether it’s a yummy tidbit, tummy rubs, a game of tug, lets your dog know you’ve seen their good decision and like it. Over time, lots of good dog choices become just another part of the routine. Lately we’ve had a few dogs in classes who, for whatever reason, are frightened of going through doorways. For some, it’s particular doorways. For others, it’s all doorways. We don’t know why. We’ll never know why. Dogs never tell us their “why’s.”

All of these dogs are getting over their doorway phobia. In time, both the dogs and their people will be able to sail through any jamb without a second thought. Rewards won’t be required long term, but they are needed now. These people are asking their dogs to be brave and make a scary (to them) choice. The rewards given now build the equation: “When I go through the doorway, good things happen on the other side.” At some point it will become a non-issue. Then you can stop rewarding the dog.

Second nature

Many of the behaviors we teach our dogs become natural parts of life. You won’t always have to reward your dog for walking politely at your side, it will become a habit. In time, sitting when being introduced to guests will be the norm. Your dog’s default behavior will become going to their kitchen “Place!” when you’re cooking. Until those desirable things happen, the rewards have to keep coming.

Best dog training advice ever

Here’s the best dog training advice right off:

“Shut up!” That’s the best dog training advice we give people in our classes.

We wish there was a more polite way of putting it. But when we try, it’s ignored. We’ve tried:

Just wait!
Be patient!
Don’t say anything!
Let Fido think!

It just doesn’t penetrate until we say “Shut up!” We try to say it with a smile and a little chuckle. But it’s still startling. When we have to use it, we try to do it at the beginning of class. It gives us a chance to soften the blow and give it context. Because almost everybody talks too much when playing training games.

Our voices become garbled nonsense

Have you ever seen one of the Charlie Brown television specials? Remember how the adult voices were just garbled nonsense? For the most part, that’s how we sound to our dogs. They may love the sound of our voices, but the words are mostly gibberish. Dogs are capable of learning the meanings of dozens, if not hundreds of words. But they have to be distinct, taught clearly, and stand alone.

Knock three times. Say it once.

Once is all you need. We’ll use Puppy Push-ups, our class-opening exercise, as an example. Puppy Push-ups is a rapid sequence of position changes; Sit!, Stand!, and Down!, in random order. The faster you go, the more fun it is for both of you.

There is a learning period that takes some time. It’s not something most dogs are asked to do on a regular basis. They may be asked to “Sit!”, but that’s about all. How long it takes depends on how often you play, how fast you deliver the treats, and how willing you are to let your dog think.

If you stand with your dog in front of you, nothing in your hand, and say “Sit!,” how long will you wait before you repeat the word? If you’re like most, it happens within seconds. The command isn’t “sitsitsit!”

Say it once. If your dog doesn’t do it by a count of five, just look at their butt. Quietly.

Lessening the value

Every time you repeat a command, you’re telling your dog they don’t have to pay attention the first time. That another opportunity will come up, and they may not have to worry about that one either. There will always be another chance, so it doesn’t matter if they listen.

If your dog knows they have one chance to get it right, chances are much higher that they’ll be listening the first time. If your timing is prompt with rewards, they’ll comply even faster. Be ready with the reward, but be sure you’re rewarding, not luring.

Timing is everything

Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards. If their reward is almost simultaneous with performance, that performance improves exponentially. When you fumble around trying to get treats out of a bag or pouch, the dog has no reason to be crisp and precise. And if you repeat the same command multiple times, the dog will either learn to wait for the fifth repetition, or figure it’s not worth their effort.

Almost everyone is guilty of talking too much in training. We had to break the habit ourselves because talking is not allowed in obedience competitions. The rules actually spell out in detail when you’re allowed to talk to your dog and what you’re allowed to say. Frankly, the inability to constantly “cheerlead” the dogs makes for better training. You just have to wait for what you said to penetrate and send the signals from dog ears to dog brain to dog body.

Try it and see

The next time you play Puppy Push-ups, say a command once and wait. When you’re about to give up and repeat, stop yourself and wait another five seconds. That’s all. Wait a silent count of five. You’ll be surprised and delighted to see how much your dog already knows, if you’re patient and shut up. And that’s the best dog training advice ever.

Dog Training Game – Follow the Point

Does your dog go (or even look) where you point? Or do they check out your pointing hand, sniff it, lick it and sit to be petted? Don’t worry – it’s easy to train your dog to follow the point.

After spending lots of time dropping through the rabbit hole of the internet, there doesn’t seem to be any consensus on whether dogs’ ability to follow where you point is nature or nurture. It is universally accepted that dogs can be trained to follow a pointer. But how, exactly, do you do that?

Looking to you

From the moment you bring a dog home, they’re always learning from you. If you have that niggling feeling there’s always someone watching, you’re right. Unless they’re asleep, your dog is always aware of where you are and what you’re doing. If you’re really attuned to your dog, they can even tell what you’re thinking. Like Fran’s Simon who wakes up from a sound sleep and dashes to the door when Fran thinks about walking her dogs.

If you make a habit of pointing at stuff, your dog may already have a notion of how it works. Most of us have dropped some tidbit on the floor and pointed to it, urging our dogs to get it. Sometimes it works. But it’s not a reliable behavior, just an occasional lucky find.

For this game, we’re going to transform that luck into a bet-on-it, go there, get that.

Intro to Follow the Point

The first step is stupid easy. Get a treat, put it on the floor. Point at it and tell your dog to get it. If your dog has a reliable “Stay!”, use it. Otherwise, hold the dog’s collar with one hand while you place the treat and point with the other. Be sure you don’t release the dog until you’re pointing. This step is just introducing your dog to the relationship between the “Point” and getting good stuff.

After a couple of pointed-at treats, your dog will catch onto the concept pretty easily to follow the point. The next step is to build some distance. If there’s no one else there, and your dog won’t “Stay!” put them on leash and wrap it around a heavy piece of furniture so they can’t grab the treat as you’re placing it.

Point at the treat and release your dog. Keep your arm up and the point intact. We want the dog to learn to move in the direction you’re pointing. Don’t move closer if they don’t dash right over. Just keep pointing. (Patience!)

After a couple repetitions, your dog’s going to start putting things together. Look for them to start watching your arm and hand. When they start anticipating where the instructions are coming from, you know it’s sinking in.

Now put the treat in a bowl and do the same thing another few times. We’re introducing the idea that even if the dog can’t see the treat, it will always be where you point.

What’s next?

It’s one thing for your dog to go where you point. It’s another to choose that direction over another. Get two identical bowls/dishes/targets to put the treat in. Put both bowls out at the distance your dog was successful. Put a treat in one. Go back to your dog and point at the bowl with the treat.

If your dog goes to the wrong bowl anyway, just start over. Try to figure out where the disconnect happened and go back to that step. If you have a dog who’s incredibly nosey, like Fran’s Simon, they’ll probably check out the second bowl. As long as the dog went where you were pointing first, that’s fine. It’s actually a good thing. They’ll know that there are rewards for going where you point, and nothing anywhere else.

This step teaches the dog that there will always be something good where you point. Even when there’s not a treat where you’re pointing, there will be a reward for going there. Dogs reliably do whatever’s most rewarding for them. Make following your point rewarding every time.

Nothing in the bowl

The next step requires the “leap.” Set out the two identical bowls. Don’t put anything in either one. Leave a good distance between the bowls so your dog can’t possibly confuse which you point at. Set up with your dog at your side and point at one of the bowls. If your dog goes to the right bowl, get over there and give your dog a jackpot! Do it again.

When your dog is getting it right most of the time, you can up the challenge by increasing the number of bowls, moving them closer together, or any variation you can think of. As long as your dog always gets rewarded for getting it right, they’ll keep going where you point.

Use your imagination

Following your “Point!” can be the start of all kinds of “go there, get that” behaviors. In competition obedience, it’s known as the Directed Retrieve. The exercise is part of the highest level of Obedience (Utility), and involves three gloves, evenly spaced along one side of a 40 foot long ring. At the opposite side of the ring, the handler points their dog at whichever glove the judge designates. The dog runs out to the glove, picks it up, brings it back to the handler, sits, drops the glove on command.

There are lots of steps for the dog to learn. And all of them are fun for both of you. Recently we saw a version where the dog ran to a cooler, opened it, picked out a bottle of water, and brought it to their person. Your dog can do it, too!

Why dogs pull on leash, and what to do about it

Many dog owners think their dogs pull on leash because they’re in a hurry. They want to get “over there” to sniff whatever nasty things are on the ground. Or maybe the dogs like going faster. Maybe their dogs think there’s something more interesting around the corner.

The truth is much more basic. Dogs like having a tight leash. The reason is simple. If the leash is tight, they don’t have to pay attention to you. When dogs pull on leash, they know exactly where you are and what you’re doing. They can focus on everything around them, and not worry about where you are. In lots of ways, it’s easier for your dog to pull, even if it chokes them, than divide their attention.

Don’t try breaking it

As everyone knows, habits are hard to change. The longer the habit’s been entrenched, the harder it is to break. That’s one of the reasons we don’t try to break the pulling habit. Instead, we establish a new walking game and use it until it becomes a habit you’ll want to keep.

Since dogs always choose the action that’s most rewarding, being by your side has to be the most valuable option. Arm yourself with your dog’s highest-value treats for the Pattern Walking Game. Whether that’s hot dogs, cheese, or whatever bizarre thing your dog loves above all else, have it ready.

Pattern Walking Game

The first step is to choose a three-word phrase you can remember easily. Most people choose “one, two, three.” But it can be anything your dog doesn’t hear all day every day. One of our trainees chose “Coffee, Tea, Wine.” You’ll be saying it a lot, so choose a phrase that comes to you easily. We’ll use “one, two, three,” here. You use your chosen phrase for the steps.

Get five treats and your dog. On leash is good, since that’s how your dog will associate the phrase with walking. Now say the third word in your phrase and give your dog a treat – 5 times.

“Three.” Give your dog a treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.
“Three.” Treat.

Your dog doesn’t have to do anything, be anywhere in particular to get the treat. It helps if you say it in an excited voice.

Next steps

Get five more treats and say the second and third words in your phrase. Emphasize the third word. Give your dog a treat when you say the third word:

“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.
“Two, THREE!” Treat.

We bet you can guess what the next step is in teaching your dog the Pattern Walking Game. Get another five treats and:

“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.
“One, Two, THREE!” Treat.

Where you want them

The first few times you play the game, that’s all you do. You have to establish the link between the third word and reward. Once your dog whips their head around at the sound of your third word, you can move on to the next step – where the treat is located.

This step teaches your dog to be in the “reward zone.” Hold the treat by your thigh, on the side where you want your dog to walk. Start all over with three sets of five treats, always holding the treat on “THREE!” where you want your dog’s head to be. That’s by your side. Your dog should start looking for the treat on “Two” and be looking for your reward hand.

Put it in motion

Again, depending on your dog, only move on when your dog anticipates where the reward will be by going to the reward zone as you say your 3-word phrase.

Once the dog is reliably at your side on “THREE!”, take a step as you say each word of the phrase. If your dog isn’t at your side when you say “THREE!”, just wait. Don’t move the treat, or wave it around. Your dog may need a moment to think, so let them. When they come to your side, give them the treat and do it again. And again.

Stretch it out

When your dog understands, take two steps for every word in the phrase. Take your pattern walking to different rooms, outside, in the yard, etc. Put it in motion and take it for a test run.

You can make Pattern Walking a part of longer walks. If you go for 30 minutes walks, don’t use the Pattern Walking Game more than five minutes at a time. If you use it in the middle of a longer walk, set yourself up for success. Get your dog’s attention. Have them sit. Do a quick “One, Two, THREE!” Treat!. And then start the game’s motion.

Using Pattern Walking on a regular basis during walks will establish it as a new habit that’s fun for both of you. It takes some time. That’s okay. It takes time to establish a new routine.

Word of caution

Once your dog is in love with the third word in your phrase it’s tempting to abuse it. It’s not a substitute for a good “Come!” It’s not a way to get your dog’s attention. We’ve had students who start repeating “Three! Three! Three!” when their dog loses attention. Don’t. Use a game like “Touch!” Or “Puppy Push-ups” to center your dog.

Keep your 3-word Pattern Walking phrase sacred for walking. Every time your dog hears the third word, they should get a treat by your side. Every time. No exceptions. If you stick to it, your dog will know exactly what’s expected of them and do it reliably.