2-minute tip Archives - Page 20 of 28

Follow your dog’s lead

It’s okay to follow your dog’s lead. You don’t always have to be in charge.

Back in the olden days when we started fairly serious dog training, our first instructor intoned: “Never let a dog make a decision. He’ll always make the wrong one.”

When you know better, you do better. We know better now. We know how to guide our dogs to making good decisions. The dogs love learning and love playing training games, because they get to figure things out and have fun doing it.

Tango changed the game

Tango has been learning to bowl. We've learned to follow our dog's lead.

Tango’s been learning to “bowl” for 15 sessions so far. In 2-Minute-Trainer time, that’s just about half an hour. In almost every session, Tango has picked up a bowling pin. And used it to knock into another pin. He obviously enjoys using a “tool” for the game.

It surprised us, because Tango (Fran’s 11-year-old Brussels Griffon) has never played with toys. He doesn’t carry stuff around, and really doesn’t interact with many objects. He’s a short-faced dog, who has limited vision at this point in his life.

Thinking about it, we wondered if he is uncomfortable knocking over the pins with his muzzle/beard. He’ll never be able to answer the question, but we can follow his lead and change the game.

No rules for your training

Remember that you and your dog are the ones who make the rules for your training games. Tango and Fran aren’t bowling for any objective other than to have fun. Hope’s French Bulldog Torque loves bashing into things, including bowling pins. Tango doesn’t. Tango’s game can be different. We can follow our dog’s lead.

Fran decided to incorporate a “tool” for Tango to use to knock down the pins. She found a suitable object (a Mickey swizzle stick she found in the house) and started using it in the sessions with Tango.

Step by step

Like all new games, Fran introduced the Mickey stick by rewarding Tango for looking at it. Then touching it. Then picking it up. Then holding it. Then moving with it in his mouth.

Because Tango loves playing training games, he’s proving a quick study. In the first session he was already walking around with it.

As you and your dog gain familiarity with step-by-step training games, you’ll find your dog “skipping ahead,” too. It’s proof that your dog gets it, loves it, and will always have fun playing training games with you.

Follow your dog’s lead

Unless you’re aiming for a particular dog sport competition which has its own rules – you’re the one who decides the shape of your dog’s training games. If your dog likes doing things a certain way – why not follow your dog’s lead?

Tango did compete in dog sports. When he was competing in Agility and Rally Obedience, he learned how to perform according to the rules. He’s retired now. And he’s got opinions about how things should be done. It’s okay to do things his way. He’s a very good boy.

You can follow the progress of Tango’s bowling in our weekly newsletter, where we post the videos, as well links to our weekly 2-Minute-Training tips and general dog news.

How to help dogs afraid of loud noises

We helped Peanut the Mastiff, afraid of loud noises.

This week we were called upon to help a dog afraid of loud noises. It’s not your typical case. Peanut is a Mastiff. Not a toy dog, not a “lap dog.” Peanut weighs more than we do.

Peanut is about three years old now. We met him when he was a puppy, just twice as big as Hope’s French Bulldog, Torque. Peanut’s always been timid, but puppy class helped and he was doing well with consistent exposure to different situations.

Pandemic shut-down

And then the pandemic struck. Peanut and his family have had limited contact with the outside world for almost a year. For easy-going dogs, it’s probably not as critical an issue. For Peanut, it stopped his progress in its tracks.

His owners are a lovely, active couple who make sure their dog gets plenty of exercise and goes for long walks daily. They even made sure he got out in the worst weather. On truly bad days, the husband would take Peanut out for a walk and, if they got too cold or it was too sloppy, they’d call for a ride to get home.

Which is where the issue with noises arises.

Two facets of a single problem

Peanut needs a ramp to get up into their car. They can’t lift him – he’s over 100 pounds. One day last week the ramp dropped away from the car and made a loud noise on the garage floor. Peanut was terrified. He wouldn’t go near the ramp again. It took them hours to convince him out of the car.

They just didn’t know how to help their dog. They replaced the ramp with a different one, but Peanut wouldn’t go anywhere near it.

Wisely, they called for help. A single issue, the dog’s fear of loud noises, has two different training solutions. One to address the ramp issue. The second is changing Peanut’s noise phobia.

To get Peanut to use a car ramp again, Peanut has to love the ramp. Now it’s a fear object, with all the terror of the noise itself attached to the ramp.

To get Peanut over being afraid of loud noises, he has to learn to ignore them.

Learning to love again

Peanut the Mastiff is afraid of loud noises and must learn to love his ramp. — This ramp is free-standing – you can read more about it at GollyGear.com.

The ramp aversion is the more immediate problem, since Peanut won’t be able to go anywhere if he won’t use the ramp. An added complication for them – Peanut has severe food sensitivities and is a lackluster eater at the best of times. Fortunately, he is toy-motivated and loves to play with his toys.

Since this is an intense situation, we’ve set some rules for Peanut. All of his toys, every single one, has been removed from the household and hidden in a bin only the people have access to. Several times a day, they take a toy and stand by the ramp. When Peanut puts a paw on the ramp, he gets to play tug with the toy and person. Only if he puts a paw on the ramp.

What we’re doing is attempting to transfer the value of something Peanut loves (his toy) to something he avoids (the ramp). Everybody’s going to have to be patient. Overcoming fear isn’t fast. And Peanut’s fear may be more powerful than his love for his toy at first. Ultimately Peanut will learn to love the ramp – he’ll associate the best rewards with it. (Read more on this: https://2-minute-trainer.com/2020/05/01/all-behaviors-are-equal/)

When Peanut is stepping on the ramp with a single paw fairly consistently, the next step will be to wait for two paws. And reward with play. Then three, and four. Then walking consistently.

Small steps

Peanut’s owners may also face a problem when they move the ramp. Right now it’s in their family room while they address their dog’s fear of loud noises. When they make progress, it will have to move to the garage. And the process may have to start all over again.

We’ve talked before about dogs not being able to generalize. Once people learn to use a spoon, all spoons “work” the same way, regardless of what they look like or where they are. That’s generalizing. Dogs don’t make the same mental leap. A ramp in the family room may not be the same as a ramp in the garage.

Fear of loud noises

The other part of the issue Peanut’s owners need to address is their dog’s fear of loud noises. Contrarily, we don’t want Peanut to love noise. Instead, he needs to learn to ignore it.

In separate training sessions from his ramp game, his owners are going to make their household much louder. One of them will bang pots while the other plays tug with Peanut. Or yell across the house at each other. Or play loud music, or explosion recordings, or fireworks or thunder. If Peanut learns that noise is just a part of life, his life will be less fearful, more fun, and improve immensely.

Get loud

If your dog is afraid of loud noises, try pairing noise with things your dog enjoys. If your dog is food motivated, it’s a little easier for you. Just play those loud recordings during your dog’s mealtimes. Even better if you feed by hand and ask your dog to do “stuff” during meals.

Trying to turn around an established pattern may be difficult, but it’s not impossible. Take it step by step and change the fear into a trigger for something good and/or fun to happen. You and your dog will both be happier if you can overcome the fear of loud noises.

Get your dog to come dashing to you every time

Booker is playing "keep away." He had not learned to come. — Booker playing “keep away.”

Do you have a dog who likes to play “keep away?” It’s frustrating and can be scary – especially if you’re in a heavy-traffic area.

You can get your dog to come running to you whenever you call. One of the best games for recalls (“come”) just turns “Keep Away” around! What do you think would happen if YOU were the instigator of this version of “Keep Away?”

Catch Me If You Can

This game asks that you act against every instinct you have. When your dog takes off running away from you, or dances just out of reach, everyone’s first impulse is to run after the dog, or try and grab him. It’s natural. And it’s wrong.

Instead, you’re going to work with the fact that your dog has exactly the same instinct. After all, both humans and dogs are predators. We share the “chase” reaction. So we’re going to use it.

Playing the game

In a controlled environment, where you know your dog can’t get away from you (indoors, or a fenced area), bring your leashed dog and have a pouch of really top-notch treats ready to use. If your dog is more toy than food motivated, bring the best tug toy your dog loves. If you can hide the toy so your dog doesn’t realize you have it, even better. We’ve been known to stuff toys up under our shirts if they don’t fit in a pocket.

When you get to the safe spot, without saying anything to your dog, drop the leash and take off running away from him/her. If your dog isn’t paying attention, you can yell his/her name while you run away.

Really run. No half-baked pretend running, or sideways running to keep an eye on your dog. You’ve made sure Fido can’t get away. All dogs are faster than we are. Get into the spirit of the game. Run!

As soon as your dog catches up with you, grab the dog’s collar with one hand and start shoveling treats into his mouth with the other. Or if you have that toy, whip it out and play tug. Celebrate!

A note about using toys as rewards: The reward is playing tug with you. It’s not getting the toy and playing by himself. Don’t drop or throw the toy. Keep hold of it and offer it to your dog for a game of tug. If you let your dog play by herself, you’ve undone all the good you just achieved. We’re establishing that you are a component of the reward. Without you, there’s no fun game.

Do it again

After a half-dozen treats (or so), or a minute of tugging, start the whole thing again. Take off running, away from your dog. When she catches you, reward with a jackpot of treats, or a game of tug.

Rinse and repeat

That’s all there is to it. Playing this game will teach your dog that coming to you is always a good thing. There will be treats, toys, and you!

You’ll find more fun games that will convince your dog that the only place he wants to be is with you in Book 2: Come!

Dog games: Ring stacking game for dogs

Yes, your dog is smarter than a two-year-old!

And you can easily teach your dog the ring stacking game, one of baby’s favorite toy games!

All you need is a post, rings that easily fit on it, some treats, and your dog. We recommend a clicker, too, but it’s not essential. As long as you consistently “mark” good decisions, a word (good!) is fine.

Step by step

When you start teaching your dog something new, break the behavior down into little nuggets that can be assembled into the whole behavior.

With the ring stacking game, start with just one ring. Put it on the floor near your dog. The goal is to get your dog to pick it up, but she doesn’t understand that, yet. Watch carefully. When she looks at the ring, mark it! If she gets close to the ring, mark it! If she sniffs it, mark it! If she picks it up, celebrate! Good dog! Lots of treats!

What if your dog moves the ring with a paw, instead of her mouth? Ignore it. It’s not what you want, and it may cause confusion if you change the criteria later. Mouth? Yes! Paw? Try again, that’s not what we want.

Next on the agenda

The next step is to have your dog move while holding the ring. The easiest way to do this is for you to start moving as soon as the dog has the ring in his mouth. If he drops it, stop. Wait for him to pick it up again and start moving.

At this point, you can place the post you’ll be using to stack the rings. When your dog has the ring in his mouth, move toward the post and wait. At first, if your dog drops it anywhere touching the post, reward. We want to let the dog know that the ring has to touch the post. When he has that idea, we’ll get pickier and expect him to place the ring over the post.

Onward!

We have a total of six rings. We use diving rings because the rings that came with our post were too chubby for our dogs to hold and manipulate easily. Now we toss all six rings down and our dogs, knowing the game, get each one, carry it across, and place it on the post.

If the ring doesn’t go over the post, just wait. The lack of reinforcement (praise and/or treat) will let your dog know it’s not quite right and, hopefully, he will try again.

Here’s a successful session in which Torque completed the game in about a minute with all 6 rings:

Torque plays the ring stacking game

Hints for success

Reward for the “same thing” only about three times per session. Looking at the ring is great, but we want to move on after the third time. Picking up the ring is terrific – three times. Then we need more. If you expect your dog to do more, he will!

Keep each session short – that’s why we call it 2-Minute training. Dogs think and process what they’ve learned. The next session, either later or the next day, start with a brief “refresher.” If your dog is stumped, take a step back to the point he/she was successful.

Dogs learn what’s “good” by associating the “thing” with the reward. Try to place your reward (treat) near the post, so your dog knows the post is a good thing. She may not know what to do with it right away, but she’ll be happy to be around it.

This may sound odd, but “show” your dog how the game works. You pick up a ring (you don’t have to use your mouth – you have thumbs!), carry it over, and put it on the post. Dogs do learn by watching.

Try not to be frustrated or lose patience with your dog. If it’s all brand new, it may take some time to catch on to the ring stacking game. Keep in mind that playing only two minutes at a time, a dozen sessions is less than half an hour. Read about a session a while ago when Torque completely forgot how to play the game.

Remember how dogs learn

Just by watching how your dog relates to the game, you’ll be able to see how he/she learns. Some dogs will get it right away. Others will learn one step easily and have difficulty with another. Just like us, all dogs have unique learning styles.

Part of learning is processing. You may have one completely awful game session. The next time, your dog may be brilliant. Giving your dog time to “think” about it helps them achieve success.

If you do have a session that falls off the rails, just stop and regroup. Your dog is doing the best he/she can, willing to play with you. Be grateful for the wonderful companion you have and try again later.

It’s all about choice in dog training

Dog training is up close and personal. You can’t do it remotely. And you shouldn’t let someone else train your dog. There are gadgets that are supposed to work – but those are tools you can use. Not people replacements.

Dealing with a bad dog owner

We got a call this week from a person looking for a “thing” that would stop her dog from jumping over her fence. She had no idea what she wanted, she just wanted something that would do the “job” of keeping her dog in her yard. Her choice in dog training was not to do it.

She has two options:

A taller fence (her current one is four feet)
A leash, with her attached to the other end

She didn’t much like the options we offered. And highly resented the fact that tethering her dog in the yard is illegal. Not to mention highly dangerous for the dog, which is why it’s illegal. This person shouldn’t own a dog.

Teaching takes time

If you want your dog to understand the boundaries of your territory, you have to teach your dog where the boundaries are. If you want your dog to stop jumping over the fence, you have to teach your dog it’s not a good choice. And you have to offer your dog a more rewarding option.

That’s the key phrase, and one we can’t emphasize enough. Dogs always do what’s most rewarding. They will, absolutely dependably, choose to do what makes them happiest. It’s up to us to teach our dogs that doing what we want is the best, most rewarding, most fun option.

That’s dog training in a nutshell.

Pay your money, make your choice in dog training

Dog trainers often say that people get the dog they need, when they need it. If your dog has a behavior you don’t like, you have to decide whether you’ll become a better trainer or you live with the behavior.

If your dog is a counter-surfer; you’re either right there whenever your dog is in the kitchen teaching better choices, or you leave nothing on the counter, ever.

If your dog jumps the fence; you put a long line on your dog and go out with him every single time teaching boundaries, or you get a higher fence.

Dog’s aren’t convenient

Booker could jump the fence. We made in choice in our dog training to go out with him. — Booker could jump over the fence. That’s why he never goes outside by himself.

We go outside with our dogs every time they leave the house. It’s not convenient. We’d rather stay on the nice cozy couch, trust them to “do their business,” and come home again.

But we don’t have robotic dogs. We have dogs that, without supervision; eat dirt, bark at the neighbors, bark at the neighbors’ dogs, bark at cars, and eat rabbit poop. To prevent all of those things, we’re right there. And when we see our dogs make good decisions, like glancing at the neighbor and looking back to us, we’re right there to reward that good choice to be quiet.

Choices in dog training include the “battles” you choose to fight, and those you’d rather just manage. If your dog goes digging in the bathroom wastebasket all the time, we completely understand moving the wastebasket rather than dealing with the issue. Some things just aren’t worth the effort to train. (Here’s another post about that choice: https://2-minute-trainer.com/2020/03/24/set-up-for-success-no-more-counter-surfing/)

Along with that choice comes the realization that your dog is going to do some stuff that aggravates you and you’ve chosen to live with it. If that’s your decision, it’s also up to you not to get angry or yell when your dog does it.

We have a saying for that: “Train, don’t complain.”

See your dog and adapt to the dog you see

There’s a saying in dog training “train the dog in front of you.” It’s good advice, as long as you see your dog. Like every person, every dog is unique. Our job, as our dog’s world interpreter, is to explain things how that dog needs.

Tango demonstrated it this week

See the dog in front of you and adapt! Fran saw that Tango was having trouble understanding the game when the pins were staggered.

If you’ve been following along in our newsletter, you know that Tango, Fran’s 11-year-old Brussels Griffon has been learning how to “bowl” – knocking over toy bowling pins. Tango loves playing training games, but he’s not the fastest to catch onto things. Fran’s learned over the years that he does eventually get it – as long as it’s explained in bits he understands.

Last week he showed us that he doesn’t understand when the pin layout is staggered. He was okay as long as they were in a straight line, but the small difference was too great a leap for him.

Booker (Fran’s Boston) and Torque (Hope’s French Bulldog) had no problem generalizing from a straight line to a staggered one. But Tango does. Fran has to train Tango where he is.

No comparing to others

Saying (or thinking) “But So-And-So got it right away! Why doesn’t Whatsit understand?” isn’t helpful. Whatsit is a different dog than So-And-So and needs to be taught differently. Even if they’re the same breed. Even if they’re siblings.

Fran and Hope are sisters. They sport a distinct family resemblance and have often been mistaken for one another. But they’re very different people. Hope learns by listening, Fran is a visual learner.

It’s up to you to see your dog and figure out how best to manage the steps of teaching your dog any new behavior – whether it’s a fun trick, not pulling on leash, or greeting guests politely.

Seeing your dog

Dogs always do what’s most rewarding for them. And it could be anything – from food, to toys, to attention from you. Playing training games with you should be the most rewarding of all – they get both your attention and a physical reward as well.

If your dog is loving the games, but just not understanding what you’re teaching, it’s up to you to adapt to the dog in front of you. See your dog. Figure out what works and what’s baffling. Go back to where your dog was successful and take smaller steps forward. (Read more about setting your dog up for success.)

Next time, Tango’s bowling pins will start in a straight line. One in the middle will move slightly for each repetition. When that one is no longer a problem, another one will move slightly each time. Because that’s how Tango has shown us he needs to learn. We want to keep challenging him, with a goal we know he can reach.

Click here to see Tango’s latest bowling session (YouTube will open in a new tab.)

Your dog will show you who he/she is. See your actual dog. And train the dog in front of you.

When your dog gets on your nerves

Does your dog make you crazy sometimes?

Every once in a while, do you just want to be alone? Especially in the shower?

Everybody has those days. And, over the last few months with more time at home, things that normally wouldn’t have bothered you are now getting on your nerves. It’s okay. It’s normal.

Perspective is everything

We saw a cartoon on social media the other day. In the first panel two people were talking on the phone. One said to the other something like “2020 was the worst year ever. Stuck at home for months!” In the second panel, two dogs are sitting together and one says to the other “2020 was the best year ever! My person was home all the time!”

For people, dogs are an important part of our lives, but they’re not our whole lives. We have family, friends, work, school, social groups, etc. Our dogs have us.

Best life for everyone

We certainly don’t have to feel sorry for any of our dogs. They have fantastic lives, with little, if anything, to worry about. They have food, shelter, companionship. And no bills to pay.

For us, the responsibility gets to be a little much sometimes. Especially if we’re feeling stress in other aspects of our lives. We don’t mean to take our feelings out on our dogs, but sometimes they do get in the “line of fire” for our worries. Every once in a while, they just get on our nerves.

When you’re feeling overwhelmed, as we all do sometimes, it’s okay to take a break from your dog. It doesn’t mean you don’t love them. It means that you need some time to yourself. And, certainly, don’t start a training session when you’re feeling that way. (See this post: “Only 2 emotions allowed in dog training.”)

Take the time you need

For some of us, going for a walk with our dogs is a chance to relax, unwind, and be in the moment. We don’t have to think about anything, or pay attention to anything but breathing in some fresh air and meandering along. For others, it’s just as stressful as anything at home – you have to pay attention to traffic, or other people/dogs, etc.

It’s okay to take a walk by yourself.

A friend of ours has been working from home since March, 2020. She has two dogs that she adores and who adore her. And for the sake of her sanity, she employs a dog walker to take her dogs mid-day.

Partly it was to help the dog-walker, who lost a good chunk of her business when the stay-at-home orders took effect. But the other part was our friend giving herself permission to be alone. Sometimes she takes a walk by herself while her dogs are out. Sometimes she just relaxes. But she takes the time for herself and her equilibrium.

Appreciating togetherness

Some difficult days we don’t even want to get out of bed. We want to pull up the covers and cuddle with our dogs. Because our dogs are much loved and important members of the family. Those are the days we need comfort and surround ourselves with those we love, including our dogs.

There are other days we want to be alone. Every interaction feels like an intrusion. Those are the days when you grab your coat and keys, head out by yourself and take the time you need. Your dog will be waiting to greet you enthusiastically when you get back.

How to achieve stress-free car rides with dogs

Do you dread having to take your dog anywhere? Does your dog’s car anxiety stress you out, too?

Over the past year, most of us have been spending more time at home. We’ve haven’t been going much of anywhere, and neither have our dogs.

Our dogs familiarity with travel and car rides has lessened, and even those dogs who were accustomed to going places and doing things may now get nervous.

Name of the game

Booker and Tango are accustomed to the car and going places. — Pre-pandemic, Booker and Tango frequently rode in the car with Fran to trials and on road trips.

Familiarity is the key. Dogs, like us, get nervous in unfamiliar situations. Car rides with dogs qualify, especially if the only place the dog goes is scary.

Think about it from the dog’s perspective. If the only time he/she gets in the car is to go someplace where scary and/or painful things happen, you’d hate the car, too. Veterinary care and grooming are both necessary for our dogs, but neither is fun for the dog. Hope and Fran knew when they got puppies that as grown-up dogs they would be spending a lot of time in the car – going to obedience, rally and agility trials as well as on road trips, so they translated their crate training from the house to the car.

To turn things around and achieve stress-free car rides, start slowly, from the beginning.

Make it fun

Start where your dog’s anxiety begins. If he/she is nervous getting near the car, walk him her around the car, chattering calmly to your dog and delivering treats. Or play with a favorite toy near the car. Open and close the doors, all the while playing or rewarding for calm behavior.

Don’t force the dog to get closer, let them take it at their own pace. Coddling isn’t required – it’s not okay to be scared. Speak calmly and encourage exploration, but don’t force it and try not to get frustrated. You know there’s nothing to worry about. The task is to convince your dog that’s true.

Step by step

Like all 2-Minute training games, after a couple of minutes, you’re done for the session. You can come back to it later, but give your dog time to absorb the fact that he/she had fun near the big, scary, noisy thing.

When your dog is fine around the car, have him/her get in it. Again, give treats or play with a toy for a couple minutes. Reinforce for your dog that the car is a positive place.

When your dog can enjoy the treats or toy in the car, hook him/her up to whatever restraint you use in the car and have another play session. At this point, if you have another person who can help, one of you get in the driver’s seat while the other plays with, or gives treats to your dog.

Noisy scary

The next step is to have the dog in the car and turn on the engine. Make sure you’re outside, or the garage door is wide open to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Play or treat for a couple minutes. If you don’t have a helper, give your dog a treat-filled toy. Use a high-value food stuffed in the toy – peanut butter or spray cheese work well for most dogs.

If your dog is able to focus on his/her chew or treat toy, you’re well on your way to stress-free car rides with your dog. Take a short ride around the block and back home. As you’re able to take your dog in the car for longer periods, try going to a park or somewhere dog-friendly and playing a fun training game as we discussed in the post, “Take it on the road …”

Building on success

Stay at whatever step as long as you need to. If your dog is too nervous to take treats or play, stay there until she gets more comfortable. A nervous glance, then back to the game is fine. Rejecting the treats/toy due to nerves means your dog has reached his/her limit and you may even need to go back a step.

When you are able to progress to actual trips, be sure you go fun places where nothing bad happens. Take your dog to a park and go for a walk. Or a pet shop and let him/her choose a new toy. Then straight home.

Accentuate the positive

You can replace anxiety with anticipation if you teach your dog, step by step, that there’s nothing to worry about. As your dog gets used to new things, they’re less scary. If you make car rides routine fun, you’ll have stress-free car rides with your dog.

Wellbeing of dogs – caring for mind and body

If dogs are people’s best friends, it’s up to us to look out for the wellbeing of our dogs. Dogs give us the gift of unconditional love. We owe our companions the best life possible. That includes looking after their physical, as well as mental health.

All aspects of life

Dog training games provide mental stimulation and enrichment. We’ve talked about how the games also enhance our bond and relationship with dogs. But how can we improve our dogs physical wellbeing, too?

One of the easiest ways is incorporate balance and stability exercises into our training games. This is particularly important as our dogs age. Like us, dogs’ strength and balance can wane with the years if these capabilities aren’t exercised.

Exercise isn’t a four-letter word

Many people, us included, don’t particularly enjoy “working out,” or exercising. We do it because we know it’s good for us, and allows us to keep doing the things we love – like eating chocolate. Our dogs have a better attitude about working out. As far as they know – it’s just another game we play together. And our dogs are always up for a game.

The particular exercise games each dog plays depend on that dog’s wellbeing needs. For example, Fran’s Brussels Griffon Tango is a senior dog at 11 years old. He’s by far the most flexible dog we’ve ever had. We sometimes joke that he has no bones – only cartilage, like a shark. Fortunately, he doesn’t have the dental array of one.

Tango’s issue with wellbeing was that he lacked core strength. He can practically bend in half, but he couldn’t hold himself up for a trick like “sit pretty.” To address this lack, we started doing balance disc exercises with him, shown in the video. He does this routine with Fran almost every day and it’s made a huge difference. If you don’t have a balance disc, you can use any cushion big enough for your dog to stand on. The whole routine takes only a couple of minutes, and makes a major impact on the wellbeing of your dog. (This post has more about your dog’s balance and how you can incorporate these games into your training.)

Different issue

Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, has different fitness needs. He’s extremely top-heavy, like all Frenchies. He tends to use his front half for everything he can, so the challenge is keeping his hips and back legs strong. Hope developed a routine for Torque of “squats” and “crouches.” Using a four-inch step, Torque steps off the back and crouches, sits on the step, steps off the front and squats. It helps work his whole body, with emphasis on using his knees and hips.

These exercise routines were presented to the dogs as new games, taught in little chunks and evolving over multiple training game sessions. The dogs don’t know they’re “working out,” because they never see sessions as work. Tango even complains when he sees other dogs doing balance disc routines – he’s impatient for his turn.

Wellbeing of dogs games

When you and your dog get in the great habit of 2-Minute dog training games, you’re taking the best care of your best friend. We know that addressing the needs of both mind and body allows everyone, including our dog, to live the best life.

No is a dog training “no-no”

“No” is never allowed in positive reinforcement dog training games. It’s a dog training no-no.

For many people schooled in traditional, force training methods it’s the most difficult hurdle to get over. For them, the implication is that there are no “consequences” for bad, or even incorrect behavior. It’s not true. There are ramifications – they just don’t hurt, either physically or emotionally.

Not the way it works

Back in the olden days, dog training methods advocated both physical and verbal punishment. We grew up hearing that dogs should be smacked with a rolled-up newspaper for misbehavior. And “no” should be screamed at them for household infractions.

A dog cowering when you reached for a newspaper was an indicator that “he knew he did something wrong.” Not true. He knew he was going to be punished. He probably had no idea why.

Evolution in dog training

When you know better, you do better. Now we know, and science has proven in study after study, that positive reinforcement methods are both more effective and lasting. See the Introduction to the 2-Minute Trainer Method.

The objective of training games is teaching dogs to make good decisions. Giving them options, and rewarding when they choose “right.” So what do you do if your dog makes a “wrong” decision?

Try, try again

If you’re in the middle of a training game, get the dog’s focus back on you and try again. If it’s a situation where your dog has “checked out,” or run off with a toy, it’s up to you to get his/her attention back. We’ve been known to run off in the opposite direction, calling the dog’s name. Or get down on the floor and start laughing for no reason. Or turn our back and pretend we’re playing with a better toy. You can’t get anywhere without your dog’s attention.

It’s up to you to be more interesting than anything else – and more fun. That’s one of the reasons we keep our games short, fast, and fun. Neither we nor our dogs have a long attention span.

“No” is not part of any game

When our dogs make a “wrong” decision during a game, we ignore it. We may look away, or say something like “try again,” but it’s never “no.” Encourage your dog to keep trying, rather than putting up a giant “stop” sign.

That’s what “no” is. It’s abrupt, harsh, and a barrier to what you want to accomplish. If you feel you need to say something to “mark” an incorrect choice, try something like “oops!” No one sounds angry saying “oops!”