Movement Puzzle #2: Work the Arc

The object is to teach your dog to think

Multi-tasking is a skill that can be developed in dogs as well as people. We’re not talking about a DaVinci-esque ability to write different things with each hand simultaneously. We’re not even talking about the physical coordination needed to walk and chew gum. Instead, we’re focusing on teaching your dog to think even when over-the-top excited. There’s no point in telling your dog to calm down when they’re excited. It’s like teaching a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. Instead, give your dog the skills to listen and decide, even in chaotic, noisy, and distracting environments.

Different levels

To set up the Arc movement puzzle, a fun derivation of Vito’s Game, gather some different-height, sturdy stools, boxes, benches, etc. big enough for your dog to stand on and able to support your dog’s weight. You’ll also need a couple flat items to start each side of the Arc. Don’t worry about collecting all of it before you get started. You’ll add on over time. 

For the first session, you’ll need one low step and two flat mats. Place the step in the center and a mat to either side. You’ll also need two bowls to drop treats into and some treats. You can set up wherever you have enough room for your dog to move. This is one of the games you can play outside, weather permitting.

The objective of the puzzle, for your dog, is to move from one side to the other, stepping on each of the obstacles in the Arc each way. For the first session it’s just the three items on the curve of the Arc. 

Get started

Torque starts with a sit on the stool.

Since this is a puzzle for your dog to solve, start by setting your dog up on the small step. You’ll add the two mats later. Go stand between the two bowls. Drop a treat in one of the bowls and let your dog get it. Then look at the step. If your dog returns to the step, look at the other bowl. Just look. Don’t drop a treat in until your dog starts moving toward it.

Don’t say anything. Don’t tell your dog where to go. Remember, the object is to teach your dog to think. If you give your dog the answer, it’s not a dog puzzle, it’s you controlling your dog. You’re hinting at the answer by where you look: bowl, step, opposite bowl. That subtle cue is all your dog gets. The rest they solve on their own.

It may take a while for your dog to get the hint and figure out what you want. They may bark, scratch, fuss, etc. Ignore it. Stick with the puzzle cues. Your dog will, in time, go from bowl to step to other bowl and back again. Every time they get near the bowl, drop a treat in.

Next step

Arc game graphic

When your dog has figured out the sequence, add the two flat mats on either side of the step. The dog must step on all three objects to get the treats. Again, moving from side to side.

This puzzle keeps your dog moving and thinking at the same time. As they conquer each step, add more. Either add steps of different levels to either side, or move yourself and your bowls further away, or add tall objects to the ends of the arc for the dog to go around.

The possibilities for this game are limitless. You can add objects to circle, to crawl under, to jump over, etc. When you teach your dog to think, and as they learn the rhythm of the movement puzzle, they’ll look forward to new challenges.

Back and forth

It’s a simple concept, move back and forth to get the treats. It’s also a puzzle that’s as challenging as you choose to make it. 

You won’t know where your dog’s limits are if you never test them. You could discover that there are no barriers to your dog’s possibilities. Find out. Just for the fun of it.

Movement Puzzle #1 – Vito’s Game

What’s your absolute favorite thing about doing puzzles? It’s figuring them out for yourself. It’s not as much fun if somebody helps you, or gives you a hint. 

Your dog is going to love learning movement puzzles. They’ll look forward to playing every time. Your dog will love seeing what new twists you add to their puzzles.

But it’s going to be hard on you. Probably more difficult than any other training game you’ve played with your dog. Because you’re not allowed to help.

Simple setup

There are basically two main variations of the Movement Puzzle. This week we’ll introduce the more static version. You get to sit for this one.

This thinking game / movement puzzle is called “Vito’s Game.”  We were introduced to it in a video by the great dog trainer Susan Garrett of “Say Yes!” Dog training.

You need two bowls for treats, lots of treats, and an obstacle for your dog to go around. It can be anything. We generally use a five-gallon bucket or a wastebasket.

Sit on the floor with your legs crossed. Have one empty bowl at each side, near your hips. Hold the treats between your legs. 

Start playing side to side

Get your dog’s attention and gently toss a treat off to your right. Then toss one to your left. This will implant the idea of going side to side in your dog’s mind. Do it a couple more times, alternating sides, and make your toss a little closer each time. For the last introductory part, drop a treat in one of the bowls at your side. Then, after your dog’s gotten that treat, drop one in the bowl on the other side. 

Now’s the time to start using the bucket. Put it right up against your shins so your dog has to go around it to get to your other side. Now wait. (It’s hard, but you’ve got this.)

If your dog goes right to one of the bowls, drop a treat in it. Wait for them to go around the bucket to the other side. You can look at the empty bowl, but you can’t say anything, or tap the bowl, or give any other cue. It’s up to your dog to go around and check the other bowl. As soon as they do, drop a treat in.

When your dog is fairly reliably going side-to-side to get the treats from the bowls by your sides, start gradually moving the bucket away from you. Your dog still has to circle around the bucket, side to side, to get the treats. 

If your dog takes a shortcut and tries to get to the other side by taking a path between you and the bucket, don’t say anything. Just move the bucket closer and start again.

Think about it

Vito’s Game is a puzzle your dog has to solve. It’s a thinking game, something most people don’t normally expect, or require from their dogs. But good training encourages dogs to make good decisions. The dog has to figure out what they have to do to get the treats. 

You may have to start from scratch the first few times you play Vito’s game. That’s okay. Your dog will get it. As long as you do your part.

Your job is to deliver treats to the bowls. That’s it. For the game to be effective, you can’t cheat. No hints, no cues, no talking, no tapping treats on the bowls, no telling your dog what to do. Let your dog find the joy in solving the puzzle. 

Training Game: Hold it!

Teaching your dog to “Hold it!” is more useful than you’d think.

It’s adorable. We know someone whose dog holds a white board, so she can write any message or greeting and have a ready-made perfect social media post.

It’s helpful and adorable. Someone else we know taught her competition obedience dog to hold and carry his gear bag. The best part was the dog wasn’t a Golden Retriever or a Border Collie. He was a toy dog – a little Brussels Griffon.

It’s game-changing, helpful, and adorable. Teaching your dog to hold something in high-traffic areas can keep them busy and out of trouble. Even if you have an exuberant, excitable dog.

Why it’s magical

Hope’s French Bulldog Torque makes lots of funny sounds. Most Frenchies do. Other dogs have, on occasion, reacted poorly to him. It got to the point where he was always on the lookout for other dogs, ready to bark and behave rather rudely.

Torque loves playing "Hold it!" with his little pink ball.

Torque also loves toys. Rubber balls with holes in them are his favorite. So Hope taught him to “hold” his toy. Now he confidently walks around anywhere, from the local neighborhood to a dog sport competition, showing everyone his little pink ball. Everyone thinks it’s adorable, not camouflage for potential misbehavior. 

If your dog is somewhat leash-reactive, or reacts to other dogs, people, bicycles, strollers, etc. on walks, you can solve your problem by teaching your dog to “Hold!” a favorite toy. Instead of leaving the impression that your dog’s a jerk, you’ll inspire positive reactions and smiles. Make sure the toy’s a cute one, and as charming as possible. Like Torque and his little pink ball.

Teaching “Hold it!”

Most dogs want to hang onto their favorite stuff. If that’s the case for your dog, your training challenge will be sustaining the “Hold!” then getting your dog to “Drop it!” on command. Of course, ultimately your dog will have to “Drop it” when you tell them to. That’s another game.

If your dog naturally holds things, the first step is to make sure the dog will “Hold!” while wearing a collar and leash. If they’re used to playing naked, this may be more of an adjustment than you’d think. Just practice while the dog is “dressed,” putting light tugging pressure on the toy. If your dog drops the toy, just look at it and say something like “What happened? You dropped it!” Let the dog think picking it up is their idea. It is your dog’s job to keep track of their own toy. 

Once the dog is securely holding the toy, pick up the leash and add motion. Again, if the dog drops the toy, let them pick it up. Just look at the toy and encourage your dog to get it. If you start picking up the toy when the dog drops it, they’ll rely on you to keep doing it. If they know mom (or dad) will get it, they’ll feel free to drop the toy to yell at that dog across the street. It’s your dog’s job to hold the toy and retrieve it if it’s dropped.

Gradually add more motion as your dog becomes good at “Hold!” Then practice everywhere. Remember that it’s your dog’s job to take care of their toy, but be sure you know where it is and take charge if necessary.

Not a possessive type

If your dog readily drops whatever they pick up, your challenge is more complex. You have to build value in the “Hold!” 

Start with a favorite toy. If your dog doesn’t have one, you choose one that’s small enough for your dog to hold comfortably, and that has some part you can grab. If your dog will not pick up a toy, get down on the floor and slowly swish the toy back and forth in front of your dog, lightly brushing their forelegs with it. Most dogs find this both intriguing and annoying, and they’ll eventually succumb to the temptation to grab it. 

Since your goal is the “Hold!,” don’t start a vigorous game of “Tug!” when your dog grabs the toy. Instead, keep up a steady pressure. This will trigger the dog’s natural tendency to pull. Since you’re keeping the game rather gentle, the dog shouldn’t go into head-shaking, kill-the-toy tugging. Get your dog used to moving around while playing gentle tug with you. 

If your dog drops the toy and leaves you holding it, you drop it, too. Then stare at it and encourage your dog to “get it!” If they don’t, or seem confused, you can toss the toy a short way away and “race” your dog to the toy. Let them win! Then you can start the tugging pressure again.

Be patient

Like all behaviors, every dog picks up on “Hold!” at their own pace. Be patient and persistent. If you have a dog whose leash manners could use improvement, giving them something to “Hold!” is the fastest way to achieve better leash behavior. 

The worst thing to say about your dog

This week one of our dog training students said just about the worst thing ever about her dog. It happened when somebody brought a mini see-saw to training to loan it to a classmate. 

All the dogs were checking it out and trying it. And one woman, who really should have known better, said “My dog won’t.” 

Amazing turn around

She should have known better than to say, “My dog won’t.” When we first met “Marni” and her dog “Zoey,” in our beginner obedience class, Zoey was a frightened, loud people-shy, basket case of a dog. Through training games and positive reinforcement, that changed.

Zoey is now in the competition Rally class, social with every person she meets and fine sharing space with other dogs. She’s still loud, but now it’s not “Get away from me!” Now she barks because she’s impatient for her “turn” in class and loves doing all the stuff with her mom.

Never “can’t” or “won’t”

this little dog can

As we recall, Marni was skeptical at first. She thought Zoey was destined for a sheltered life, never going anywhere or doing anything because of her fear aggression. 

Zoey is living proof that the past doesn’t have to define the future. Despite her doubts, Marni embraced the methods and training games. And saw her little dog blossom into a confident, capable companion who enjoys learning new things and showing them off. And we’ve seen other dogs blossom as well.

If you say your dog “can’t” or “won’t” it’s guaranteed not to happen. If you don’t believe they can, they never will. 

Manifesting destiny

We called Marni on her “won’t” right on the spot. Was Zoey wary of the little see-saw? Yes. Did we pull her over to it and make her get on it? No, of course not. 

What we did was have Marni bring Zoey only as close as Zoey was comfortable. Gave her treats and told her she was a good, brave girl. We moved it up and down, letting her see the motion and hear the sounds. 

Zoey decided it wasn’t so scary. She saw some of her classmates go back and forth on it, walking confidently even when it banged against the floor.

She got more comfortable and was willing to get closer. 

By the end of class, she was next to the see-saw, even taking treats off its deck.

Add a word

Was Zoey bopping back and forth on the see-saw? No. But next time she sees it she might. And Marni, a primary school teacher, remembered that we can’t limit others with “can’t” or “won’t.” Unless you add “today.”

Maybe Zoey can’t today. Maybe there’s something your dog can’t today. But there’s no telling what they’ll be capable of tomorrow. Give them the opportunity and maybe they can and will.

Dog Training Game – Turning in Circles

What you call your dog’s “turning in circles” games depends on the level where it’s happening.

If your dog is lying on the floor, it’s “Roll Over!” 

When your dog is standing with all four feet on the ground, it’s “Spin!”

If your dog’s up on their hind feet, it’s “Dance!” (mostly because pirouette is too hard to say and spell).

By the way, all three are great Kitchen Games – behaviors that don’t need a lot of room, not much time, and just a handful of treats.

Three games in one

All three variations start with the same action – turning your dog’s head one way or the other. With a treat held near the dog’s nose, just move it slowly to the side and back. Dogs get the idea better if your arm is over your dog’s back and you’re actually luring their motion from behind. 

Keep the treat close to the dog’s nose, so move at the pace your dog sets. Even if your dog regularly spins in circles, like when they’re excited or chasing their tail, they won’t understand what you want right at first. Be patient. 

If the dog’s head/neck only moves to about their shoulder, reward there and try for a bit further next time. 

Paw-edness

This is a behavior that most dogs will do better going in one direction than the other. Like people, dogs have a dominant side. 

Even if your dog is showing you they clearly prefer one side to the other, teach them turning in circles both ways. You want them to be equally balanced, not develop one-sided skills. Ideally you want to work all of their muscles for these fun fitness behaviors.

Standing Spin

Teaching “Spin” is probably the easiest of the three. Both you and your dog should be standing, with your dog facing either right or left and you standing perpendicular to your dog. Holding a treat in the hand farthest from the dog’s head, reach over their back to the side of their face away from you and get them to turn their face away from you, toward the treat. If  your dog keeps moving around with your treat hand leading, turn them all the way around in a circle. 

Most dogs don’t get it the first time and will seem confused. Your movement matters here. Try not to reach your arm too far out. Keep the treat close to your dog’s nose so they follow it around. This is almost literally leading them around by the nose.

Be patient. For most dogs the “Spin!” is pretty fast. They will prefer going one way over the other. Give the different directions (clockwise and counter-clockwise) separate names, like “Spin!” or “Turn!”

It gets confusing

Many people think the two words should be “Right!” And “Left!” Don’t be tempted. Who/s “Right!” do you mean? Yours or the dog’s? What if you’re facing each other? What if you’re next to each other? It just gets tortuous to figure out.

Floor work

If you’re teaching your dog “Roll Over,” it’s pretty much the same thing. The two of you are perpendicular to each other with you sitting and your dog lying down. Bring the hand furthest from the dog’s face over their shoulder, toward their nose. Get them to turn their heads to follow the treat hand. 

Instead of going straight back, lure your dog’s motion up and toward you. Most dogs will naturally start rolling over.

Some dogs won’t ever roll over. Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog, is flat-out scared of turning turtle. It was Teddy’s, her previous Frenchie, best trick. Fran’s Boston Terriers whirl around any time, any where, all three levels. Since the behavior is basically just for fun, you shouldn’t push your dog if they hate it.

Dance

Ceilidh loved to dance.

Start by having your dog stand up on their hind legs and reward at the apex. When the dog has been doing it for a while and is fairly stable on their back legs, move the treat in a circle for them to follow. Again, try to have them turn both ways. (Ceilidh – pronounced “Kay-lee” – loved to dance!)

Most dogs love these behaviors and will get them fairly quickly. You can stop luring it when you think your dog is getting the idea. Continue to reward after the lure isn’t necessary. Dogs may love doing it, but their good work should always be rewarded.

As you fade the lure, you’ll find yourself using the hand motions to trigger the behavior. Take note of how you’re moving so you can use it as a consistent hand signal. In no time at all, your dog will be turning in circles at the wave of your hand!